An Open Letter to an Open Letter

It should be noted that references to CICs labelling and the location of these in LCBO outlets is mostly out of date. It's a shame these products still have presence next to legitimate Canadian wines. However, the criticism of a respected wine critic's statement at that time rather than being denigrated should be taken as one person's point of view. What can we gain from an unprofessional diatribe? (May 2012)

In his blog Wines In Niagara, Rick VanSickle published an Open Letter to Jancis Robinson criticising her comments on 'Cellared in Canada' and the 'turmoil' in the Ontario wine industry. JR's article was published in the Financial Times (29May2010) entitled ‘From bottom to top - Canada’s wines’.

I have a difficult time letting statements, often made on my behalf by members of the wine trade, in this case a journalist catering to Ontario (mainly Niagara) wineries, food establishments, tour operators and publicists.

I am a ‘bare’ consumer, ie. one having no affiliation with the wine trade in Ontario or anywhere else. The money I spend on wines is from my pension. Trips are at my personal expense - there are no business tax claims. I’ll use Consumer with a capital C to distinguish from others that claim to be consumers although heavily influenced by their wine trade occupation. These are my comments on a number of points made in the Open Letter.

The Ontario wine industry, if not the Canadian wine industry, is in disarray if not turmoil. From my viewpoint this is largely an internal conflict caused by Corporations usurping control, inadvertently or as a consequence, over the future and fortunes of smaller businesses. Perhaps naively so I don’t believe any business purposely restrains other businesses in the Ontario Wine Industry. However, the size of the Corporations allows an infrastructure more capable to respond to market opportunities. The bulk importing of offshore juices, setting up private boutiques at high traffic retailers, presenting a Canadian identity in government outlets, pervasive presence in bureaucracies and Government associations, the ability to setup Alliances to counterbalance trade associations, etc. Corporate weight offsets the initiatives by a myriad of smaller wineries.

Yes, the normal disarray of an industry attempting to coordinate its future growth is often turned into reactive turmoil.

The Open Letter rationalizes ‘other countries do it so it must be legitimate for us to do it’. And what is ’it’? The ’it’ is to mislead Consumers into the belief that what’s in the wine bottle corresponds to what is stated on the label. If the CIC label had read ‘Imported Wines Blended and Bottled in Canada’ it would have been a clear declaration for you and I, Consumers. I have not yet noticed a change in controversial labelling… and I have not yet noticed a change in our local LCBO outlets separating CICs from VQA wines. I have not yet noticed increased advertising for VQA wines or space on Vintages shelves. The Ontario wine industry remains disadvantaged.

The Open Letter rationalizes that we Consumers need cheap locally produced imports to compete against cheap ’other country’ imports. Let me paraphrase here ’So, instead of letting cheap foreign wines devour the marketplace here, some (a US owned Corporation and a local Corporation) compete … by combining cheap juices from other countries with a small percentage of Ontario juices…”  I cannot explain why this perverse ‘he beats his wife so it’s OK for me to’ argument could be considered as rationale.

The statement ‘we can’t make good cheap red wine’ does nothing to lessen the disarray. Every grape grown on a vine in Ontario should be used to produce wine - some of it will be ‘good cheap red’ given a will. If anyone believes all CIC reds are both ‘good’ and ‘cheap’ they’re not tasting the same ones I have. The alternative, to import juices then use the same facilities to produce ‘cheap red wine’ here, is a contradiction. Are Ontario grape growers growing the wrong grapes? are they not cultivating vines correctly? or are they purposely letting their grapes be ploughed under? If so, there is a resolution. If the large Corporation put its facilities to use every last Ontario grape could they not make cheap and often ’good cheap red [and white, as much of CIC is] wine’… perhaps even legitimately labelling it VQA Ontario?

Three points of view: an international wine critic, a local wine writer and a solitary Consumer. Your POV is welcome. All will help us truly 'move on'.

Cheers, Ww 

May 2010 - 3rd Niagara Trip: 3 Tasted of 3

I had intended to visit Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery  (Map it!) the previous day, May 20th, but the winery wasn’t open at the time I had left Fielding Estate. As Bacchus would have it my BH was looking for a piece of furniture - this quest took us to Stoney Creek on the 21st. Without any prompting she suggested we had time to visit one winery. Ah ha! Hidden Bench it was. (Click on photos for larger view)

Hidden Bench with neighbouring vineyards on the Niagara Escarpment slope is a terroir driven, small cuvée winery. Production is approximately 5000 cases but with what appears to be plans to double the number of vines this may increase in the future. From the visitor’s card … “Recognized as the best winery in Ontario in its first year of operation (2007 Canadian Wine Awards) … quickly established itself as one of Canada’s top, ultra-premium wineries.”

Winemakers Jay Johnston and Jean Martin Bouchard believe in the artisanal approach to wine making - letting vines and terroir guide their results. For each of their wines how vineyards are maintained, the hand sorting of grape clusters and grapes and the meticulous care throughout fermentation is described on the website.

A flight of three Estate wines ($10) provided tastings of their 2007 Estate Chardonnay, 2008 Roman’s Block Riesling, 2007 Estate Pinot Noir and, an extra, 2007 Terroir Cache - Red Meritage. All were exceptional wines reflecting the non-interventionist techniques followed to produce them. A constrained supply and demand from their faithful ‘wine club members’ is possibly how 'ultra-premium' prices are maintained - or not!

Hidden Bench is one of the seven wineries participating in  the ’Graze the Bench’ event June 5th and 6th… and yes, I now have our Passports ($25ea.) for ‘Graze the Bench‘ days. 

Well over my budget only three wines made it home for a more leisurely tasting.  Cheers, Ww

• Hidden Bench Estate ‘Felseck Vineyard’ Gewurztraminer 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, 92-1  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $31.70
• Hidden Bench Estate ‘Roman’s Block’ Riesling VQA Beamsville Bench, 91-1  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $35.90 
• Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, 90  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $36.95

(O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench Estate, Beamsville, Ontario, 14.3% D, #Winery $36.95  (Tasted June 1, 2010)
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The website describes this chardonnay as “Lovely yellow golden straw colour. A sophisticated and complex nose showing aromas of dried fig, cantaloupe, sweet ginger, cloves, roasted almonds with a touch of smokey minerality. The 2007 Estate Chardonnay is a rich wine with a sensuous texture and finesse. The wine shows intense aromas of dried figs, white peaches and spicy ginger touch on the generous finish…” “grapes from Rosomel, Locust Lane and Felseck vineyards, cropped to less than 2 tonnes per acre.” My notes:A light golden colour with a spicy scent of ripe figs, browned butter and touch of vanilla sets up bright flavours of figs and white peach with a full-in-the-mouth finish through to a dry end. The oak treatment adds dimension while soft fruit paints the background. An early californian style but lighter being medium-bodied - a sipper for a wine group looking for a difference. Have with grilled bacon wrapped scallops or smoked salmon on toasts. Cellar for a few years to further integrate and develop depth  - a chardonnay for the future. 90

HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE `ROMAN`S BLOCK` RIESLING 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, 10.0% D, #Winery $35.90  (Tasted June 2, 2010)
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The winemaker's comments are “A brilliant appearance with pale yellow straw colour. Classic and intense Riesling aromatics with hints of yellow grapefruit, lime, honey and a flinty minerality. The palate is vibrant and shows great depth of flavours. This concentrated wine has a core of yellow pomello with candied citrus and lime. An austere wine that shows great finesse, power, beautiful balance and an extraordinary length. These are trademark characteristics of the Rosomel Vineyard, specifically Roman's Block terroir.” My notes: Cold baked apple comes to mind with the first sniff: delicate, a lemon accent not sweet and a touch of pineapple, almost floral. The colour is a light golden close to blond and a swirl leaves an even film receding slowly then showing a few slow tears. The first sip is very bright, tart apple and lime flavours behind a stringent backbone. The finish is long declining slowly with remnants of almost ripe grapefruit, lemon and dry as chalk. An interesting somewhat rude sipper, perhaps young yet. Cellar three to four years or have with fresh oysters, braised tiger prawns or grilled chicken legs. 91

HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE `FELSECK VINEYARD` GEWURZTRAMINER 2009 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, 14.5% D, #Winery $31.70  (Tasted May 28, 2010)
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The winemaker's comments are “Bright golden straw colour with a vibrant and lifted nose of lavender, fresh lychee and signature ginger note this wine shows each vintage. This is a very concentrated and fleshy wine with cleansing acidity and a persistant finish. This terroir wine has aromas, flavours and structure that are true to the Felseck Vineyard.”  My notes: Just a touch of spritz as attested by fine bubbles on the glass, a light golden nearing blond and a mild, pleasing floral scent edged with ginger gives an appealing first impression.  The first sip has a medium-bodied smoothness, a balanced sugar and tang, a mix of tropical fruit and warmth to go along with a long luscious finish. Served well chilled or allowed to go off chill this doesn`t disappoint at a family or social event. Also a white to go with sushi, Thai or varied Chinese buffet. Cellar up to two years possibly longer or save for those summer days on the patio with salty chips or anchovy striped focaccia slices. To be decadent throw in a lime slice and a cube.  92

May 2010 - 2nd Niagara Trip: 4 Tasted of 4

May 20th was a warm sunny Thursday as I headed the Elantra for the Fielding Estate Winery (Map It!).  There has been substantial growth on the vines since last visiting the Wine Route twenty days ago. From 2005 through 2007 I had enjoyed various Fielding wines but had not tried any since. More recently, I’ve been prompted by Head winemaker Richie Roberts' regular Tweets of his activities in and around the vineyards. It was time for a visit.
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This time of year Niagara wineries are continually monitoring for frost on unpredictable Spring nights.  At Fielding several huge fans, solar powered somewhat and under control from the main house, are used to circulate air through the slopes of the escarpment. Dial a number… start a fan. The low spots give up their freezing temperatures as the air is encouraged to move on through. With the temperature at 22 degrees C on this day frost seems unlikely as young shoots do their best to soak up warmth and nourishment.  (Click on photos for larger view) 

I was fortunate to be the sole taster at the long bar... and for a charming hostess with whom to chat while she poured servings.

I came back with two Rieslings, a Pinot Gris and a white blend for more leisurely tasting. I choose wines with the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) label and having a sub-appellation, the more specific the better. In this case two of the wines use grapes from specific vineyards. Hopefully, over time, this will allow more of an insight into the many terroirs of the Niagara Peninsula.
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The Fielding Estate is one of the seven wineries participating in  the ’Graze the Bench’ event June 5th & 6th: Seven wineries, Seven chefs and Seven bands. Passports for this event are available at any of the seven: Hidden Bench, Rosewood, Peninsula Ridge, Thirty Bench, Organized Crime, Angel's Gate and Fielding.
 
When tasted wines will be sequenced by rating. Cheers, Ww

• Fielding Estate Rock Pile Pinot Gris 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 94-2  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $25.95
• Fielding Estate White Conception 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $18.95
• Fielding Estate Riesling 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 83  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $15.95  
• Fielding Estate Lot No. 17 Riesling 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 83  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $24.95

(O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)
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TASTINGS:
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FIELDING ESTATE ROCK PILE PINOT GRIS 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D, #Winery $25.95  (Tasted June 10, 2010)

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The tasting flyer describes this as “Light gold in colour, with aromas of fresh pear, ripe melon, raspberry tea, apple-cinnamon crumble and butter cream icing. Nice texture on the palate, good acidity, with fresh apple flavours on the finish.”  My notes:  Grapes from the Jack Rabbit Flats Vineyard (see story behind name on their website) leave a perfumed wild floral scent. The colour is an attractive blond and a swirl leaves a film with an evenly receding edge without tears. There’s a noticeable spice, a soft acid then full flavours of pear and apple carried through a long fresh finish. A Niagara Pinot Gris - not Italian or French - and a super sipper if you like fruit, spice and floral because they’re all present to the end - scrumptious. Have with Thai or Chinese, either seafood or vegetable tapas - not too spicy. Cellaring for a year or two shouldn’t be a problem but I’d rather sip, sip, sip (3 sips equal a quaff) on a shaded summer patio. Obviously I enjoyed it!  94
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FIELDING ESTATE WHITE CONCEPTION 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5% D, #Winery $18.95  (Tasted May 27, 2010)
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The tasting flyer describes this as “A blend of 50% Pinot Gris, 21% Chardonnay Musqué, 18% Gewurztraminer, 6% Riesling and 5% Chardonnay. Concentrated and complex aromatics of nectarine, honeysuckle, poached pears, almond, orange zest, brioche and Chinese five-spice. Very good richness on the palate, solid acid backbone, and long spicy finish...to be enjoyed young up to four years.” My notes: Their first white blend and obviously a hit winning a Silver medal at the 2009 Intervin. I’d swear there’s a smidgeon of green - maybe not - in the light blond colour, aromas of peach, apple and field floral in the nose, a firm film evenly receding showing a few slow tears and a first sip that’s tangy with apricot, subtle apple then a touch of natural sugars and dry peach fuzz in the long finish. A medium-bodied blend that`s a social winner as well as a challenging parlour game picking out the varieties… or just enjoy with grilled seafoods. 90
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FIELDING ESTATE ‘LOT NO. 17’ RIESLING 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, 9.5% D, #Winery  $24.95  (Tasted June 13, 2010)

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The tasting flyer describes this as “Aromas of white grapefruit, mandarin orange, lime zest and peach preserves are complimented with subtle notes of lemon tea and honeysuckle. Concentrated flavours on the palate of lemon drops and nectarines, exceptional acidity, balanced sweetness, and a lengthy finish with vibrant minerality." My notes: There’s a hint of gold in a crystal clear white and more than a hint of mandarin orange and floral in a nose that takes time to develop. A swirl leaves an evenly receding thin film. Light-bodied, sweet edged and mild acid with flavours of delicate Malus domestica (Red Melba apple) added. A simple sipper easily quaffed either chilled or at room temperature. Did not pair well with roast chicken pieces and salads from Metro - perhaps at a social quaffed with finger foods/appetizers. Interesting but didn’t work for me. A drink now. 83
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FIELDING ESTATE RIESLING 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario,  10.5% D,  #Winery $15.95  (Tasted May 31, 2010)
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The tasting flyer describes this as “Intense aromatics of candied lime, white peach, granny smith apple with floral and lemon zest notes. Exceptionally balanced with lively acidity, a touch of residual sugar and a verve of minerality running through the lengthy finish." My notes: A green cast blond with a delicate scent of floral, granny smith and lemon zest - didn’t get the candied lime or white peach (it’s hard to separate so many with just two nostrils). A light film with lots of fast tears and the first sip has a lightly rounded texture, a taint of sweetness and light on acid. Flavours of granny smith, a lime and lemon combo, albeit so delicate and evenly blended, hide in the background coming forward in a long, soft finish building with each sip. A youthful riesling easily introduced to a family or social crowd. Perhaps would pair with teriyaki or sweet & sour chicken, dim sum treats and lightly curried rice dishes. A drink now.  83

May 2010 - 1st Niagara Trip: 7 Tasted of 7

Actually the trip was on sunny Friday, April 30th but what difference does a day make? Piqued (love that word) by Tweets from @rickwine (Rick VanSickle, contributor to the St. Catherines Tribune and active Tweep) described in 140 characters or less a few wines released by two new ’virtual’ wineries - wineries without a winery but camping at an established winery. In this case each of the winemakers is real. Each is passionate about capturing the terroir of single vineyards or, in the case of blending, on their, not a panel’s, sense of how each grape should contribute to the result having apprenticed through employment at a Niagara winery or being native to the area acquiring grape juice in their veins and often journeying to the New World for experience. Their virtual wineries differ from another approach found in Niagara, that of labelling bottles fermented at an existing winery for a business not on site, even not in Ontario. (click on image for larger view)
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Nyarai Cellars with winemaker Steve Byfield is currently situated at Calamus Estate Winery. 20-27 Cellars with winemaker Kevin Panagapka is at Featherstone Estate. On the way to these two wineries I first stopped at Rosewood Estates to taste a few of their current releases.
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An aside item… if you’re in the Beamsville area on June 5th & 6th the ’Graze the Bench’ event features 7-7-7, ie. 7 wineries, 7 chefs and 7 bands. A Passport for this event is available at any of the 7 wineries.

Seven wines came back for a more leisurely tasting. When tasted wines will be sequenced by  rating, reds then whites:  Cheers, Ww

• Nyarai Cellars Syrah 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  88-1  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $20.20

• 20-27 Cellars ‘Fox Croft Vineyard' Riesling 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench,  93-2  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $25.15
• Rosewood Estates ‘Renaceau Vineyard’ Chardonnay Reserve 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench,  92-2  --  O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $25.15 
• Nyarai Cellars Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $16.20 
• Featherstone Estate ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  90-2  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $17.15 
• 20-27 Cellars ‘Featherstone Vineyard’ Riesling 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench,  86  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $25.15
• Featherstone Estate Winery 'Canadian Oak' Chardonnay 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 79  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $22.15

(V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

NYARAI CELLARS SYRAH 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario,  (Map It!) 12.5% D, #Winery  $20.20  (Tasted May 13, 2010)

The website says "… The majority of the fruit was sourced from the Lincoln Lakeshore [sub]appellation with light augmentation from the Niagara River [sub]appellation region. Garnet in appearance, this wine is fairly austere with white and green pepper notes, mocha and freshly crushed red current aromas. Balanced acidity, this is the perfect food pairing wine that sings with blackberry and cocoa nuances with a dusty undertone of subtle earthly tannins all culminating in a pleasant lingering finish." My notes: A mid ruby gemstone colour, a thin film with fast tears and a delicate red currant scent makes an interesting presentation in the glass. The first sip is light-bodied, with bright flavours of berry tinged red currant, a soft texture, a mineral-berry start to the finish and mainly mineral at the end. Not Australian… more Rhone… but mostly Niagara: terroir and process. A well made light red to be paired with roast chicken thighs, rabbit, a pork casserole, grilled salmon or ham steak. Cellar up to four years.  88  

20-27 CELLARS 'FEATHERSTONE VINEYARD' RIESLING 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 11.0% D, #Winery  $25.15  (Tasted May 9, 2010)
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The website says of the 2008 vintage "Sourced from the 30-year-old ‘Featherstone Vineyard’ in the Twenty Mile Bench [sub]appellation this wine shows underlying minerality, white peach, with lavender overtones and lively acidity. The grapes were hand harvested and whole bunch pressed, a pure expression of Niagara Riesling made in a classic style. One of the oldest Riesling vineyards (Weise clone vines were planted in 1978) on the Niagara Escarpment this wine has a lengthy aging potential. Enjoy over the next 5 to 10 years."  My notes: A suspicion of green adds to the crystal clear colour and a hint of wild flowers and honey brings life to the nose. A crab apple tartness shocks the buds awake with the first sip of chalk dry, light granny smith apple flavours. Interesting as a sipper but too acerbic for me by itself. The finish softens quickly leaving the ’shock and awe’ behind with a delicately flavoured dry finish.  Have with fresh oysters or a cold shrimp - or with a creamy chicken pasta plate, halibut and chips or squid rings. Needs several years to be ready - cellar potential adds points.  86 (Cellar)

20-27 CELLARS 'FOX CROFT VINEYARD' RIESLING 2009 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 11.0% D, #Winery $25.15  (Tasted May 18, 2010)

No description available as yet on the website. My notes:  Located on the sloping grade of the Niagara Escarpment the vineyards Kevin Pagnagapka has contracted carry the limestone and clay terroir through to his wines. Wild floral and rosebud scents burst on first pouring and last through a purposely slow sniffing - delectable. A faint green tint, well polished, swirling a thin film with a few slow tears, an initial penetrating tang then a balance of natural sweetness and acid to refresh the palate during the first sip - an ‘amuse bouche‘. It‘s a twist of brightness and fruit with a lip-smacking finish ending with chalky dryness. Enjoyable as a sipper for any event this should also pair with anything fishy, creamy, grilled, roasted or fried. A drink now or cellar in the short term. 93   

NYARAI CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario,  (Map It!) 13.0% D, #Winery  $16.20  (Tasted May 23, 2010)
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The website says "The only white wine from Nyarai Cellars produced from this great vintage[2007]. Maturated in French oak barrels for 12 months, fruit exclusively selected from two of the finest sites in Niagara-On-The-Lake. Primary fermentation conducted in stainless steel tank to capture defined fruit character and retain acidity. With an inviting nose of sweet oak and ripe yellow tropical fruit notes, this wine is well versed with green apple peel, vanilla and a hint of toffee accompanied with crisp acidity. A considerate candidate for pleasurable enjoyment with smoked Salmon, grilled Chicken or creamy pasta dishes." My notes:Crystal clear and a pale golden in the glass, given a few minutes to breathe and lose the chill there’s a faint scent of caramel and apple. A light film with fast tears gives an impression of delicate elegance. The flavours follow the nose adding a smooth texture and tart seam for a medium-bodied, lightly oaked chardonnay. Enjoyable as a sipper, better paired with seafood or chicken breast yes, smoked salmon may be a stretch. Short term cellaring may bring out some butterscotch. 90

ROSEWOOD ESTATES ’RENACEAU VINEYARD’ CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, (Map It!) 14.0% D, #Winery $25.20 (Tasted May 18, 2010)
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Described by the Winery as “Our 3 barrels were aged sur lie in premium French oak barrels for 10 months. The malolactic fermentation was stopped half-way which allows the wine to maintain the clean citrus characteristics of the Renaceau vineyard. Developing notes of caramel, butterscotch and vanilla framed by just enough acidity makes this wine a perfect pairing to veal, pork tenderloin and pasta dishes with cream sauce. Drink now or cellar for 5 years.” My notes: I tasted this chardonnay during a trip to Niagara in June 2009 then more leisurely at home.  I found the texture and flavours elegantly suited for sipping or dining. Six months in the cellar has softened the ’just detectable’ French oak in the nose leaving a soft melon and citrus. Beautifully balanced acid carries delicate flavours of butterscotch, citrus and vanilla maintaining the ‘Renaceau’ character. The oak treatment comes forward during a long, fully rounded finish. An excellent sipper that would pair nicely with scallops, grilled with bacon or with a herbed risotto, not too seasoned. Will likely mature nicely up to four years.  92
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FEATHERSTONE ESTATE WINERY 'BLACK SHEEP' RIESLING 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) #'Winery $17.15  (Tasted May 7, 2010)
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The website says "Shows ripe apple and peach, with a slate quality from the limestone soils. Mid-weight and off-dry with a great acid core and light body… Quintessential Riesling with tang and precision".  My notes: The 2007 vintage, a Twenty Mile Bench VQA, was tasted in August 2008 and rated 84. The 2009 is crystal clear in the glass with just a tinge of blond, an aroma of delicate floral that dissipates quickly then returns. The thin film recedes evenly - a light to medium-bodied sipper with the full tartness of a lime and green apple flavours. The limestone comes out in a refreshing lip smacking finish. Perfect with  fresh oysters, a shrimp plate or have with whitefish dishes or a variety of tapas. Cellaring for several years should quell some tartness returning texture and depth in the bargain. Well made, well balanced and well worth it.  90
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FEATHERSTONE ESTATE (View It!) WINERY 'CANADIAN OAK' CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 12.5% D, #Winery $22.15 (Tasted May 27, 2010)

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The website says "This is our ‘feral’ Chardonnay - fermented by wild, local indigenous yeast instead of being inoculated with a commercial strain of yeast. The grapes were hand-picked and sorted and then fermentation took place in oak barrels that are made from oak trees that grew along the Grand River in Brantford, Ontario. The result is a rich and buttery wine that is truly ‘local’ in every sense of the word and represents the best of the region and the vintage."  My notes: This is a pale gold in the glass with a nose that given time to develop doesn’t. A swirl shows a thin film with fast legs confirming a lightish medium-body first sip - tangy, delicate nectarine, almond, and apple dumpling mixture unique for a chardonnay. The finish remains delicate with  a shallow roundness and an ending of stone fruit - a tartness with each swallow the only point of interest. Not a solitary sipper. Have with saltines or wheat crackers or pair with mild fish dishes or a clear chicken broth - was passable with grilled steelhead salmon. A drink now.  79

May 2010 Chardonnays: 10 Tasted of 10

The following are chardonnays set aside for tasting in May. Cheers, Ww

• Rosewood Estates ‘Renaceau Vineyard’ Chardonnay Reserve 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench,  92-2  --  O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $25.15
• Fog Head Reserve Chardonnay Monterey 2008, 91-2  -- V, Manteca, California, #158568 $19.95
• Southbrook Vineyards ‘Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,  90-1  --  V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario,  #172338  $21.95
• Craggy Range Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2007, 90  --  V, Hawkes Bay, NZ, #132043 $34.95*
• Nyarai Cellars Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $16.20
• Irony ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay 2008,  90-1  --  V, Manteca, California,  #027409 $19.95
• Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82  --  V, Lincoln, Ontario, #056929  $40.00
• Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2008, 80  --  V, West Coast, S. Africa, #328559 $14.95
• Featherstone Estate Winery 'Canadian Oak' Chardonnay 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 79  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $22.15  
• Vineland Estates Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  77  --  G, Vineland, Ontario, #669374 $12.85

TASTINGS:

FOG HEAD RESERVE CHARDONNAY MONTEREY 2008, Manteca, California, (Map It!) 14.5% XD, #158568 $19.95 (Retasted May 13, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on January 23, 2010 described (Aug. 2009) as “From the brilliant straw colour through all the flavours and aromas, this is a top-notch Monterey Chardonnay. Loads of tropical fruit, green apple, pear, smoke/toast aromas lead to a dry, flavourful, impactful palate. A terrific wine for a variety of fish, poultry, vegetarian or pork dishes.  My notes: From Delicato Vineyards. A clean and crisp gold in the glass with a fragrance of caramel coated Granny smith, Bosc pear - light on the pear. Forms a firm film evenly receding. Full-bodied and tangy bright on the first sip, pineapple, lemon with some butter in the texture makes this a delightful sipper. The acid seam maintained its presence during a meal of vegetarian pizzas; one of asparagus and goat cheese and one of anchovies and mozzarella. Bright fruit dominates a long warm finish. An interesting sipper as well as dinner white - should keep well for several years. 91


IRONY ‘NAPA VALLEY’ CHARDONNAY 2008, Manteca, California, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #027409  $19.95  (Tasted May 10, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on April 3, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “… This crowd-pleasing Chardonnay is loaded with apple, peach and pear fruit, along with a measured amount of toasty oak character. It has a smooth, creamy texture and a medium-long finish. Match it to grilled salmon steaks or mildly spiced vindaloo chicken.  My notes: Another Delicato Vineyards chardonnay to try.  The Irony shows a firm film with slow legs, a colour not quite golden and subdued aromas - I'll wait a few minutes - yes, it's subdued, certainly not objectionable. There's a metal edge to well balanced fruit and acid giving this initially a high sip-appeal. The finish has a sweet side to a light gooseberry, lemon and mango confirming the sip-appeal. Medium-bodied and polite it would serve as a social mixer or the jump start to a  seafood plate up to a chicken and split pea risotto.  90   
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SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS ‘TRIOMPHE’ CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NOTL, Ontario, (View It!) 12.0% D, #172338 $21.95 (Tasted May 1, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on April 3, 2010 described by the Vintages panel (February 2010) as “Attractive and youthful medium-yellow-gold colour with a green tinge. Lots of toast, apple crumble, vanilla extract and hazelnut aromas. This dry wine is fairly oaky, but the intensity of the fruit is more than up to the challenge of bringing this wine in line. Full bodied with a medium-long, nicely balanced finish. Cellar it 2-4 years, or match it tonight with pork roast with green beans or smoked oily fish (salmon, tuna, mackerel).” My notes:An oaked chardonnay in colour and aromas: golden in the glass and a delicate scent of caramelized apple with melted butter. A swirl leaves a firm film slowly tearing and a first sip wakens the buds with a prod, nicely tangy, and unsweetened apple crumble flavours. All together, there’s interest as a sipper… luscious with depth and texture. The finish continues with thin velvet smoothness and tart apple. Have chilled, offchill or pair with chicken pastas or grilled seafood. Cellar for several years, rather than drink now, to possibly bring out more caramel.  90

LE CLOS JORDANNE ‘CLAYSTONE TERRACE’ CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Lincoln, Ontario, (View It!) 14.0% XD, #056929 $40.00 (Tasted May 5, 2010)  CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 described by the Vintages panel (January 2010) as “… The aromas of toast, tropical fruit, floral, peach, and nettles all play off each other to perfection. It's dry, full bodied, with terrific balance and structure. A real charmer with a long finish. Consider cellaring this ageworthy beauty 3-5+ years, or, if you wish to enjoy it now, decant it… and match it to roast pork.” My notes: ‘‘Twenty Mile Bench’ is displayed prominently on the label along with a Vineyard however grapes may have been sourced anywhere in the Niagara Peninsula as the VQA (almost illegible) allows. A greenish hue to a straw colour and aromas needing a few minutes to show, perhaps a faint tea. A light film with slow tears forms on a swirl. The first sip has a chalk-dry tang and unusual flavours of mild white grapefruit and muted tea. A medium-bodied, cleansing sipper with a long, extra dry finish carrying grapefruit and nettles to a clay end. I didn’t get butter nor caramel. Scallops or grilled whitefish should be a match for this extra dry meal white.  82
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VINELAND ESTATES CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 12.0% D, #669374  $12.85  (Tasted May 1, 2010) CS
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A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Bright yellow colour; aromas and flavours of citrus, apple/pear and fresh fig; dry, medium to full bodied, with crisp balanced acidity and a long finish. Serve with grilled salmon or light white meats, especially when served with a cream sauce.”  My notes: Less than delicate, an almost imperceptible nose, chilled or offchill, but not objectionable. Flavours are mainly of faint citrus and melon, nicely balanced with moderate fullness and a silky texture. The finish is long although overall having little of interest - improved off chill imho. A simple sipper and may be paired with grilled scallops or whitefish. Not for cellaring.  77


CATHEDRAL CELLAR CHARDONNAY 2008, Western Cape, S Africa, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #328559  $14.95  (Tasted May 25, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on April 17, 2010 rated 4 out of 5 and described by John Platter South African Wines (2010) as “The top-tier KWV range honours… Full, rich & ripe 2008, perhaps shade less elegant than 2007 but still very fine. Dense apricot, peach complement fat texture and toasty oak…”. My notes: A golden colour, a firm film with slow legs and, after a few minutes, aromas of lemon, melon and faint grass open up for sniffing. Full-bodied with a roughness that is more prominent through a long finish. From sip to finish flavours are apricot and lemon ending with grassiness and heat. As elegant as a ‘barmaid‘. Pair with chicken, creamy scallop or shrimp pastas, creamy herb risotto or salmon pot pies. A drink now.  80   
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CRAGGY RANGE (View It!) SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2007, Hawkes Bay, NZ, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #132043  $34.95*  (Tasted May 3, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on November 21, 2009 rated 5 out of 5 and described by Bob Campbell, MW, Gourmet Traveller Wine (June/July 2008) as “New Zealand wine fanatics covet the wines from the tiny area known as Gimblett Gravels. This is a full-throttle Chardonnay … Full-flavoured and fleshy with an appealing mix of oak, grapefruit, hazelnut and bran biscuit flavours. The high alcohol is certainly not excessive. Rich and moderately complex wine”.  My notes: The LCBO showed the original price as $39.95. Has a straw colour and scent of papaya and nettles, full-bodied with flavours of unripe grapefruit, tangy, extra dry, steel edged going into a long finish of grapefruit seed. A swirl leaves an evenly receding scalloped edge slowly breaking up and flowing as tears. Quite acerbic as a sipper but with an interesting crisp fullness - is a meal white. Pair with fresh oysters, grilled bacon wrapped scallops or a fish fry. Drink now or cellar a year - may have had some ripe fruit in 2008.  90

NYARAI CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 13.0% D, #Winery  $16.20  (Tasted May 23, 2010)

The website says "The only white wine from Nyarai Cellars produced from this great vintage. Maturated in French oak barrels for 12 months, fruit exclusively selected from two of the finest sites in Niagara-On-The-Lake. Primary fermentation conducted in stainless steel tank to capture defined fruit character and retain acidity. With an inviting nose of sweet oak and ripe yellow tropical fruit notes, this wine is well versus with green apple peel, vanilla and a hint of toffee accompanied with crisp acidity. A considerate candidate for pleasurable enjoyment with smoked Salmon, grilled Chicken or creamy pasta dishes." My notes: Crystal clear and a pale golden in the glass, given a few minutes to breathe and lose the chill there’s a faint scent of caramel and apple. A light film with fast tears gives an impression of delicate elegance. The flavours follow the nose adding a smooth texture and tart seam for a medium-bodied, lightly oaked chardonnay. Enjoyable as a sipper, better paired with seafood or chicken breast yes, smoked salmon may be a stretch. Short term cellaring may bring out some butterscotch.  90


ROSEWOOD ESTATES ’RENACEAU VINEYARD’ CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, (Map It!) 14.0% D, #Winery $25.20 (Tasted May 19, 2010)

Described by the Winery as “Our 3 barrels were aged sur lie in premium French oak barrels for 10 months. The malolactic fermentation was stopped half-way which allows the wine to maintain the clean citrus characteristics of the Renaceau vineyard. Developing notes of caramel, butterscotch and vanilla framed by just enough acidity makes this wine a perfect pairing to veal, pork tenderloin and pasta dishes with cream sauce. Drink now or cellar for 5 years.” My notes: I tasted this chardonnay during a trip to Niagara in June 2009 then more leisurely at home.  I found the texture and flavours elegantly suited for sipping or dining. Six months in the cellar has softened the ’just detectable’ French oak in the nose leaving a soft melon and citrus. Beautifully balanced acid carries delicate flavours of butterscotch, citrus and vanilla maintaining the ‘Renaceau’ character. The oak treatment comes forward during a long, fully rounded finish. An excellent sipper that would pair nicely with scallops, grilled with bacon or with a herbed risotto, not too seasoned. Will likely mature nicely up to four years.  92
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FEATHERSTONE ESTATE (View It!) WINERY 'CANADIAN OAK' CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 12.5% D, #Winery $22.15 (Tasted May 27, 2010)

The website says "This is our ‘feral’ Chardonnay - fermented by wild, local indigenous yeast instead of being inoculated with a commercial strain of yeast. The grapes were hand-picked and sorted and then fermentation took place in oak barrels that are made from oak trees that grew along the Grand River in Brantford, Ontario. The result is a rich and buttery wine that is truly ‘local’ in every sense of the word and represents the best of the region and the vintage."  My notes:This is a pale gold in the glass with a nose that given time to develop doesn’t. A swirl shows a thin film with fast legs confirming a lightish medium-body first sip - tangy, delicate nectarine, almond, and apple dumpling mixture unique for a chardonnay. The finish remains delicate with  a shallow roundness and ending of stone fruit - a tartness with each swallow the only point of interest. Not a solitary sipper. Have with saltines or wheat crackers or pair with mild fish dishes or a clear chicken broth - was passable with grilled steelhead salmon. A drink now.  79

May 2010 Wines: 14 Tasted of 14

When tasted, wines will be sequenced by rating and value (r-v), reds then whites, rosés then sparklers followed by Icewines and Late Harvests. Cheers, Ww 

THE LINEUP:

• Sartori Vigneti di Valdimezzo Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2007, 93-3  --  V, Negrar, Italy, #160374 $16.95
• Errazuriz Max Reserva Shiraz 2006, 92-2  --  G, Chile, #614750 $17.75 
• St. Hallett ‘Faith’ Shiraz 2007, 90-2  --  V, New South Wales, Australia, #980631 $19.95
• Gemtree Bloodstone Shiraz/Viognier 2008,  89-1  --  V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #022111 $18.95
• Z-52 Lodi Zinfandel 2006,  88-1  --  V, Morgan Hill, California, #161588  $17.95
• Chakana Malbec 2007, 87-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #003509 $13.95 
•  Stoney Ridge ‘Warren Classic’ Pinot Noir 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87-1  --  G, Vineland, Ontario, #156125 $12.00*
• De Bortoli ‘dB Selection’ Petite Syrah 2007, 85  --  V, Barossa, Australia, #694802 $14.95 
• Terra d'Aligi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007, 83  --  G,  Abruzzo, Italy, #028530 $11.85  
• Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Shiraz 2006, 82  --  V, South Australia, #925453 $18.45*

• Gérard Bertrand Réserve Spéciale Viognier 2008,  88-1  --  V, Languedoc, France, #147975  $16.95
• Highfield Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008, 82 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #012674  $19.95

• Santa Julia Extra Brut ‘Sustainable by Nature’ NV, 85  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, #142042 $14.95

• NCT Winery Late Harvest Vidal 2002 VQA Ontario, 84  --  O, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada, #Winery $21.95 (375mL)  

(V - Vintages, g - General listing, O - Other,  r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS: 
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TERRA D'ALIGI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2007, Abruzzo, Italy, (Map it!) 13.0% D, #028530 $11.85 (Tasted May 21, 2010) CS

My notes: The 2005 vintage was tasted in June 2008 with an 84 rating. A quaffer then and now with the 2007 vintage. This has a black cherry colour in the glass and leaves long fast legs when swirled. The first sip is light-bodied, bright with acid and has a light flavour of red cherries with a long and dry, earthy finish. A reasonable house wine, drinkable, even somewhat enjoyable - one to wash down tomato pastas, meatballs or cheesy lasagnas. A drink now.  83
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ERRAZURIZ MAX RESERVA SHIRAZ 2006, Aconcagua, Chile, (Map it!) 14.5% D, #614750 $17.75 (Tasted May 18, 2010) CS
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My notes: Last tasted in November 2008 with a Ww95 rating and suggesting it would make an excellent cellar staple. For nose it’s an appealing smoky raspberry. There’s a tang in the first sip enticing several follow-on sips. Smooth, minty, fruity with black currant and raspberry, a tad savoury with a long finish of all of the above makes this a social sipper for every occasion. It’s keeping well and should for several more years perhaps softening some tang in exchange for a mellower, deeper texture. Maintains a presence paired with any grilled beef meal - not a shirker by any means.  92  
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NCT WINERY LATE HARVEST VIDAL 2002 VQA Ontario, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada, (Map It!) 10.0% ~SC8, #Winery $21.95 375mL  (Tasted May 24, 2010)
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My notes: Cellared in June 2006 and last tasted in August 2007. There’s an aroma of sultanas and light honey and a colour a rich golden. Silky smooth, sweet with a touch of tart to balance an apricot and pear blend. The finish carries the flavours along a delicate acid seam. Not as intense as previous tasting maintaining only a portion of the zip in 2007. Sip by itself, have with a cheese tray or chill and mix with shaved ice as a cooler.  84


GÉRARD BERTRAND RÉSERVE SPÉCIALE VIOGNIER 2008, Languedoc, France, (Map It!) 13.0% D, #147975  $16.95  (Tasted May 16, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on December 5, 2009 described by the Vintage panel (July 2009) as “This ripe and round Viognier is truly a gem worth discovering. Gorgeous aromas of peach pie and apricot nectar, with an exotic hint of cinnamon stick. In the mouth, the wine is rich, flavourful and full bodied, with a voluptuous, almost creamy texture; ripe apricot takes centre stage, with cinnamon spice emerging on the tasty, dry, lip-smacking finish. This will make a fine partner for roast chicken with peach salsa.”  My notes:Starting with a pale gold in the glass, a firm film from a swirl leading to slow tears followed by slight aromas of crushed citrus seeds. The first sip is full, tart without a sting, grassy, flavours of unripe white grapefruit tinged with peach stone. Not an aromatic new world Viognier but an old world meal white. Have with grilled halibut, browned chicken breast with a fruit sauce, a creamy mushroom soup with bacon pieces. Excellent texture and body throughout - both flavour and finish need time to build to a warm delicate apricot. Cellaring for several years should be OK.  88

KILIKANOON KILLERMAN'S RUN SHIRAZ 2006, South Australia, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #925453 $18.45*   (Tasted May 9, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on October 10, 2009 described anonymously (undated) as “Look no further for your favourite Aussie red! Since 2001, this wine has been awarded scores of 90 and up in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. By sourcing grapes from prime South Australian vineyards and ageing the wine for up to two years in small French and American oak barrels, Kilikanoon crafts a fruit-driven Shiraz that is densely flavoured with smoky black fruit, spices and toasted oak. Serve this rich red with roasted game bird, spicy beef dishes or grilled goose.”  My notes: The 2002 vintage was first tasted after its Vintages release in April 2006 then two years later in 2008 with a rating of 84/100. ‘A bold, warm sipper’ the 2006 continues to be that. A deep ruby with a violet glow and smoky peppery aromas on blackberry, not too pronounced. The first sip is smooth with a sharp bite setting in quickly. The finish is a warm berry cordial with the bite resting squarely on the palate. Too boisterous to be sociable and too hot to be quaffed, pair with spicy pastas, rich gravies over grilled/roasted beef or with a lamb shank crockpot. Cellaring will not likely soften the acids - a drink now.  82
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Z-52 LODI ZINFANDEL 2006, Morgan Hill, California, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #161588  $17.95 (Tasted May 8, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 described by ‘The Wine Buzz’ (Jan/Feb 2009) as “Light garnet color with a whiff of smoke and vanilla on the nose; light in body but quite flavorful, with pleasant notes of cracked black pepper and licorice.”  My notes: An ‘Anders-Lane Artisan Wine’ and a bold expression of Zinfandel. The nose has a strong stewed prune accent with lots of smoke along with soft vanilla. Ruby with a distinct terracotta shade, medium-bodied, a smooth light berry flavour, fine tannins and a penetrating warmth both at the back and through the long finish building with each sip. An attention getter for its heat - pair with grilled beef or spicy pasta dishes. A drink now.  88
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SANTA JULIA EXTRA BRUT ‘SUSTAINABLE BY NATURE’ NV, Mendoza, Argentina, 12.5% XD, #142042  $14.95  (Tasted May 5, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “… a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 10% Viognier. While the Viognier brings a lovely aromatic lift to the blend as well as a richness and honeyed fruit character, the wine finishes lip-smackingly crisp. A fine sipper, or pair it with veggie tempura or roast honey-mustard chicken.”  My notes: A Familia Zuccardi product that has a light straw colour and lots of large to intermediate size bubbles then a straggly set of large as the effervescence settles. A light fragrance of grassy yeast with a touch of floral and a first taste of delicate honey flavoured pear-apple, just enough to be interesting. The texture is smooth and sufficient if not medium-bodied. An interesting sipper and the finish continues with the flavours for a good while. Have with fresh oysters or by itself or mixed with orange or mango juices for a morning delight. A toast bubbly for a ’church crowd’. Brut is the level of this bubbly.  85
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STONEY RIDGE ‘WARREN CLASSIC’ PINOT NOIR 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 13.4%  D, #156125  $12.00*  (Tasted May 4, 2010) CS
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A General listing reduced from $14.95 and not described. My notes:  Mr. Warren, a Niagara icon, attended the Canadian Club dinner on April 15th so reminded me that I haven’t tried a ‘Stoney Ridge’ since visiting the winery two years ago when he was the feature speaker.  This is a 25th Anniversary release and a Silver Medal winner at the ACWC. A soft floral and plum nose appealing, delicate and the colour is a clear ruby with a swirl leaving a quickly receding film. Light-bodied and drying on the first sip with red cherry flavours, a bramble edge and a balanced acid lining. Light enough to be quaffed while accumulating an interesting chalk dry, red cherry layer. There’s also an appealing smoothness as a sipper. Not the usual strawberry scented new world nor a straight ’burgundian’ - a Niagara unique and a drink now. 87
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ST. HALLETT ‘FAITH’ BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2007, Barossa, Australia, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #980631  $19.95  (Tasted May 2, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 rated 89/100 and described by Australian critic James Halliday (Feb 2009) as “Bright crimson; some spicy savoury elements among the main driver of red and black fruits; good tannins. Drink [until] 2015.”  My notes: A violet glow to a dense ruby and aromas of earthy black cherry with white pepper apparent. The film is firm and recedes gradually showing slow tears. The first sip greets intense berry, fine tannins and penetrating acid, balanced, making this a full-bodied, tangy sipper. A warm finish slowly gives up its fruit for a savoury ending. An interesting sipper, young with some roughness - better to pair with a pepper steak or Barbarian rubbed rib-eye or best to cellar - limit to three years to avoid predominant acid is my guess. 90    

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DE BORTOLI ‘dB SELECTION’ PETITE SIRAH 2007, New South Wales, Australia, (Map It!) 14.0% D, # 694802  $14.95  (Tasted May 2, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on April 3, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “Riverina is a region that consistently produces easy-drinking wines that offer great value. This Petite Sirah is certainly no exception. It's round, ripe and juicy with spice, sweet oak and mocha tones coming through. An ideal match for marinated red meats or moderately spiced bean dishes”.  My notes:The violet glow accents the ruby. A swirl shows a moderate film with tears falling slowly. Floral, spice and red cherry scent a delicate nose and the first sip has a medium-bodied red cherry flavour with some mint. Drying tannins start and end the finish along with fruit allowing a bramble to show. An enjoyable quaffer for a social occasion - better with rack of lamb or a marinated beef stir-fry. Cellar a short while but primarily a drink now.  85
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HIGHFIELD ESTATE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Marlborough, NZ, (Map It!) 12.5% D, #012674 $19.95   (Tasted May 1, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 rated 89/100 and described by Neal Martin (Sept. 2009) as “The 2008 Sauvignon Blanc has a lovely pear drop scented nose with orange-blossom and nectarine. The palate is medium-bodied, racy acidity complemented by pear drop and green lemon and an elegant finish. A well-crafted Sauvignon Blanc.”  My notes: Having stayed several days at Highfield I was curious to taste how their Sauvignon Blanc had evolved. This has a characteristic light blond colour with a scent of crushed gooseberries complete with grassy edge.  Light- to medium-bodied and a combination of acerbic sharpness and suspected sugar for a first sip that comes away as luscious citrus. The finish carries the acids with green gooseberry flavours and ends chalk dry. A sipper for those accustomed to biting into a lemon slice - not me. Went nicely with a turkey breast Sub and would with most seafoods. Not for cellaring.  82

SARTORI VIGNETI DI VALDIMEZZO RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2007, Negrar, Italy, (Map It!) 13.5% D, #160374  $16.95  (Tasted May 11, 2010) CS

Release by Vintages on April 17, 2010 and described by the Vintages panel (Sept 2009) as “A blend of 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella. Deep ruby. Intriguingly complex aromas of black plums, figs, cloves, tar, leather, coffee and a touch of cocoa. Dry, with a pleasing roundness to the texture. Deliciously pure, spicy fruit is supported by ripe, balanced tannins. Good length, and the interplay of flavours show impressive persistence…”  My notes:A true ruby colour with earthy plum and cherry scents gives this allure in the glass. A firm film with slow legs and a first sip a balance between rich fruit and process with a good dollop of fine tannins and acid. This is a medium-bodied sipper to relish between main courses or to complement chorizo sausage pieces in a rich red pasta as a sweet edged finish persists - an excellent expression of the ripasso method. Cellar up to five years. 93

GEMTREE BLOODSTONE (View It!) SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER 2008, McLaren Vale, Australia, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #022111  $18.95  (Tasted May 12, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on April 17, 2010 rated 88/100 and described by Jay Miller (Dec 2009) as “… purple-colored 2008 Bloodstone Shiraz-Viognier (5%) aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Floral notes, plum, and boysenberry aromas are followed by a sweetly-fruited, savory, well-balanced wine with good length and plenty of immediate appeal.” My notes:  Purple coloured with a light floral scent in the centre and spicy edges. The first sip is smooth, bright, a blend of blackberry, limon, muted pepper followed by sweet liquorice going into a long berry finish. Has considerable warmth as a medium-bodied full flavoured shiraz with an interesting Viognier influence. Pair with grilled meats or tomato pastas. Cellaring for a few years may bring out a velvet texture or roundness.  89

CHAKANA MALBEC 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D, #003509 $13.95 (Tasted May 28, 2010)  CS

My notes: First tasted in July 2008 after a Vintages release and rated 91 then again in June 2009 with 90. The nose has settled losing much of the chocolate and black cherry aromas. Now I’d say the nose is reluctant to express any fruit - some cherry left - and little chocolate if any. A swirl shows a firm film with lots of slow legs and the first sip is smooth, brightly edged and softer berry flavours, fine tannins backing a dry texture. The finish is very dry carrying the subtle berry along an acid seam and slight bramble. Interesting enough as a sipper but better paired with grilled beef or rack of lamb. Still enjoyable but not likely to improve with cellaring.  87