Sunday, April 11, 2010

April 2010: Pouilly-Fuissé

Three whites from the Mâconnais, a sub region of Burgundy and near the centre of France. Each wine is made from 100% Chardonnay grape and lightly oaked. Why three?  Of the nine found by searching the LCBO website these were the only ones, of the few in stock anywhere, available within a reasonable driving distance. It appears that P-Fs are not a popular item at the LCBO at present.

Pouilly and Fuissé ( Map It! ) are two villages at the heart of the appellation. The vineyards are located where limestone occurs in combination with heavy clays.

Wikipedia says: ‘While Pouilly-Fuissé is the best-known part of Mâconnais, there are no Premier Cru vineyards within the AOC, as the local growers at the time the regulations were being drawn up never applied for this. The AOC was created on 11 September 1936.[1] The area used to be known simply as "Pouilly", but when the AOC laws were introduced, it was split into three: Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles.’

Louis Jadot 2002 (#732917 , $34.95) was tasted in September 2005 - it’s about time to revisit this terroir - when it's available.
Cheers, Ww
  • J.J. Vincent & Fils ‘Marie-Antoinette’ Pouilly-Fuissé Chardonnay 2006,  92-2  --  V, Burgundy, France, #525113 $27.95
  • Jaffelin Pouilly-Fuissé 2007,  81  --  G, Burgundy, France, #242909 $25.95 
  • Bouchard Père & Fils Pouilly-Fuissé 2007,  80  --  G, Burgundy, France, #056580 $27.85


BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS  POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2007, Burgundy, ( Map It! ) France, 13.5% XD, #056580  $27.85 (Tasted April 13, 2010) CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Pale straw colour; light nutty, citrus, flinty/mineral, green apple, delicate floral nose with yeasty notes; dry, medium bodied, with fresh fruit, vanilla and melon flavours with a long, crisp finish. Serve with shellfish, chicken or pasta in cream sauce.”  My notes: A crystal clear blond needing to go off chill before releasing a slight honeysuckle aroma. On a swirl a thin film recedes with scalloped edges and the first sip gives an impression of green apples, tart but not acerbic, with a light roundness. The finish is long, dry, ending with a touch of straw and chalk. Not much interest as a sipper. The acids were adequate but flavours faded when paired with grilled Atlantic salmon, green beans and sweet potato - better with white fish entrées. A drink now.  80

J.J. VINCENT & FILS ‘MARIE-ANTOINETTE’ POUILLY-FUISSÉ CHARDONNAY 2006, Burgundy, ( Map It! ) France, 13.0% XD, #525113  $27.95  (Tasted April 12, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 rated 90/100 and described by Josh Reynolds (March 2008) as “Green-gold. Strikingly pungent bouquet suggests ripe pear, nectarine, iodine and smoky minerals. The smokiness carries onto the palate, which offers deep orchard and pit fruit flavors, chewy texture and a long, sappy finish. This is sourced from Vergisson fruit and went through a full malolactic fermentation, but is in no way fat.”  My notes:The vineyards of Vergisson have a high mineral level. The colour on pouring is a glistening pale yellow and the nose has a delicate floral scent if allowed to develop in the bowl. On a swirl there’s a slowly receding even film and the first sip cleanses throughout while subtle pear, citrus and stone fruit  fill the palate. The finish is long, penetrating, a tang mixed with remnants of stone fruit. XD as well as texture and flavours pair with a creamy scallop or chicken pasta. Should cellar well.  92

JAFFELIN POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2007, Burgundy,( Map It! ) France, 13.0% XD #242909  $25.95  (Tasted April 19, 2010) CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Pale straw colour; aromas of pears, golden delicious apples on the nose with a mineral note; dry, light-to-medium bodied, with delicate floral, citrus flavours with good acidity and a crisp, clean finish. Serve with seafood dishes, appetizers or cream sauce pastas.”  My notes: Pale gold in the glass with aromas of pear, citrus and dampened limestone: an evenly scalloped thin film with few tears: a strong acid presence accompanying a mineral tang on flavours of crushed lemon seeds and a slight, unripe gooseberry. The finish is at first succulent changing to a lasting lemon seed. Suitable for creamy fish dishes, bruschetta or oysters Rockefeller - perhaps cheesy nachos. Went nicely with rosemary’d Rock Cornish hens. Not a sipper.  81

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