September 2009 Niagara Trip: 7 Tasted of 7

It was time for another jaunt along the Niagara Wine Route. The Vintages release on September 12th featured eighteen wines from Niagara’s 2007 vintage and Beppi’s column (G&M, Sept 12, 2009) headlined ‘The sunshine of 2007: Ontario's best vintage ever’ provoked me to do some travelling of my own. Leaving at noon I was home by 4pm (95km return trip to Vineland plus 15km to and from wineries) with seven bottles from five wineries visited and fourteen tastings.
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The plan was to take QEW exit 57 north to King St (Hwy 81) and head west to the No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates then on to Cherry Avenue heading south to Tawse Winery, Featherstone Estate Winery, Ridgepoint Wines then over to Calamus Estate Winery for a hot sausage and riesling before heading home. Tastings at the first stop, No. 99, followed by Tawse meant I had to head to Calamus for a much needed meal stop. ‘Fallstock‘, a tasting of wines accompanied by homemade sausage on a bun was welcomed at that point in my trip. I picked up a few bottles of their 2008 Pinot Gris and after an hour of music and milling with the goodly crowd I returned to my planned stops at Featherstone and Ridgepoint (click on photo for enlargement).
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Mauro Scarsellone is a first generation Italian-Canadian who became a successful accountant. But his parents’ agricultural roots ran deep, and his personal dream was to open a winery. In 1995, He and his sister Anna opened Ridgepoint Wines. As well as producing distinctive wines his kitchen prepares some of the best home made Italian meals on the Escarpment. I thoroughly enjoyed munching into a Pizza Diavolo before heading home.

The advantage of shopping directly at a winery is fairly obvious: you taste what you buy, limited quantity and/or craft wines are only available there, you get to try the latest releases and to meet staff having first hand knowledge of the vineyards and the wines they create. And besides, the Niagara Peninsula landscape is one of the most congenial atmospheres for buying wines... and it's the season for Golden peaches.

The popularity of the Niagara Wine Route is starting to show if Saturday was an example. Countless bike tours doing the route as well as bus tours and stretch limos plying their personalized service in style. I also caught up with a 100km bike rally sponsored by Mountain Equipment at Ridgepoint.

The weather showed an autumn breeze, cool with plenty of sun. The QEW was busy but still moved in both directions at 140kph. Wines when tasted will be in bold and be resequenced by rating. 
 
Cheers, Ww

• No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estate ‘Estate Series’ Shiraz/Cabernet 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 92-2 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery, $22.95
• Ridgepoint Wines Medium Dry Riesling 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 88-1 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #088864, $15.25
• Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 86 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery, $18.20
• No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates ‘Estate Series’ Riesling 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 86 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery, $17.95
• No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates Riesling 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #144865, $14.95
• Tawse ’Sketches of Niagara’ Merlot Cabernet 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #130252, $19.95
• Ridgepoint Wines Blanc de Noirs 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 84 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery, $15.25

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

  
TASTINGS:

TAWSE ‘SKETCHES OF NIAGARA’ UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.0% D, #Winery, $18.20 (Tasted September 15, 2009)
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The winemaker’s notes state “A bright and aromatic nose awaits on this clean and crisp unoaked chardonnay. Tropical and stone fruit intimations marry with just a hint of flint and soft white floral notes on the nose while the palate echoes the fresh fruit aromas and offers refreshing juicy acidity, medium weight and a long, pleasing finish.” My notes: I last tasted a Tawse wine on June 27th, 2006, a 2003 Pinot Noir at $28, thinking it ‘an uninteresting sipper’ and ‘not a value’. It was time to update my experience. The 2008 'Sketches' unoaked chardonnay has an almost clear blond colour, polished bright in the glass and a delicate aroma of honey and melon. A thin film offers some legs but reluctantly. The first sip has a pronounced mineral aspect along with a green apple and melon flavour leading to a long refreshing finish. Almost a tooth cleaner this has a medium body and should go with most seafood dishes from oysters to crabcakes. An extra dry sipper that may cellar for a few years but I’d try a year at a time. 86
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TAWSE ‘SKETCHES OF NIAGARA’ MERLOT CABERNET 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.0% XD, #130252, $19.95 (Tasted September 18, 2009) CS
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The winemaker’s notes state “Deep ruby in colour, this rich blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a medley of red currants, cinnamon, cedar and dried flowers on the nose. Medium to full bodied, the ripe red fruit and bright clean acidity of this wine balance the smooth but firm tannins and lingering finish with just a hint of vanilla.” A Vintages release on Sept. 12, 2009 with comment from Christopher Waters (Vines, Mar/Apr 2009) who gives it 4 of 5, “… Made in an appealing Bordeaux style, with serious structure, remarkable purity of fruit and refreshing acidity, this red blend is a great candidate for cellaring.” My notes: Purchased from the winery. A clear ruby colour and starts with a thin film and no tears then a few slow ones as the film builds. A subdued nose has blue-, blackberry and cinnamon scents evenly divided. The first sip has a smooth texture, fine tannins and a delayed tartness making this a bright well balanced sipper. The finish continues a berry and bramble theme leaving the mouth with a dry mineral tinge. A meal red… should be good paired with a mixed grill, Italian sausage, mild back ribs or a beef Wellington. Clean, medium-bodied that may develop more depth with a few years cellaring. Not a value now. 84
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No. 99 WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATES RIESLING 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 11.3% D, #144865, $14.95 (Tasted September 23, 2009) CS
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The winemaker says “… bright citrus fruit with a hint of sweetness combine to complement riesling’s natural fruit forward nose and long, lush palate structure. Drinking well now and will evolve further… over the next 3 - 5 years.” My notes: Having tasted the 2006 Meritage (Ww80), the 2007 Merlot (Ww89) and the 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay (Ww85) earlier this year I was interested in trying No. 99’s other varietals within my price target: two Rieslings and a 2007 Shiraz/Cabernet blend. This lower tiered Riesling is a soft clear blond colour and has a delicate honey, grapefruit and nettles scent on pouring that dissipates quickly then returns as the chill mellows (or as the glass empties). A soft roundness, some grassiness and a tinge of orange makes this white a reasonable sip. The finish is smooth with sufficient body, a lemon tang and a dry grassy edge to pair with grilled arctic char slightly lemon’d and greens of baby arugula and water cress. A drink now. 85
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No. 99 WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATES ‘ESTATE SERIES’ RIESLING 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Vineland, Ontario, 11.5% D, #Winery, $17.95 (Tasted September 16, 2009)
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The winemaker says “… sourced from the Beamsville Bench and Twenty Mile Bench to highlight the structured lime acidity , refreshing minerality and delicate fruit profile of the Niagara Escarpment riesling.” My notes: A VQA wine designated as ‘Niagara Escarpment’ has 85% of its grapes sourced in three possible sub-appellations: Short Hills Bench, Twenty Mile Bench and Beamsville Bench. The remaining 15% can be from any other sub-app in the Niagara Peninsula. For this riesling, airing and allowing to go slightly off chill before serving is recommended. The colour is a golden blond and the nose has delicate scents of green apple and tea. Is it my imagination or is there a whiff of a fortifier? I get the same aroma in other Niagara whites so it may be the local ‘terroir‘. A swirl brings a thin film to the glass forming fast tears. A lightish medium-body with mineral coming first followed quickly by more delicate green apple - not too tart, reasonable for a dry sipper - and a faint lime zest. There’s some silk in a long chalk edged finish. This would be a good match for lobster, crab, light fishes or mussels in a mild curry with tender basmati rice. Not likely to cellar long. 86
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No. 99 WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATES SHIRAZ/CABERNET 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.7% D, #Winery, $22.95 (Tasted September 16, 2009)
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The winemaker says “…. blends the focus and finesse of carefully selected blocks of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon that epitomize the ripeness and concentration from this stellar vintage to produce a powerful and complex cellar worthy red wine.” My notes: There’s a purple cast to the deep ruby colour giving this blend a regal glow. An oakiness in the nose suggest decanting or letting air but there’s sufficient cherry and plum to skip this and go right to sipping. A full body, a velvet texture, fine tannins and rich ripe cherries tinged with humidor makes the first sip interesting. The tannins carry a cedar tainted fruit to a long dry finish. Have with prime rib or beef tenderloin - any grilled beef or lamb. Will likely cellar well for five years of so - still young. 92
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RIDGEPOINT WINES MEDIUM DRY RIESLING 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, 12.5% D, #088864, $15.25 (Tasted September 21, 2009) CS
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There are no notes from the winemaker for this label. My notes: A pale golden in the glass with scents of lemon blossom. The film is thin with just a few tears and the first sip has the flavour and tang of green apple plus a touch of melba. Astringent and almost a tooth cleaner this is a smooth and refreshing sipper, on the light side of medium-bodied, that leaves a dry lining to the mouth. Plan on having as a beverage option at a buffet table of mixed dips, hors d’oeuvres, or a cold plate of ham, tuna fish and other ‘spread’ sandwiches - also pair with seafood dishes - was great with a tomato, goat cheese and asparagus pizza. This should cellar quite well up to two years - perhaps longer. 88
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RIDGEPOINT WINES BLANC DE NOIRS 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, 12.5% D, #Winery, $15.25 (Tasted September 19, 2009)
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The winemaker says “Our Blanc de Noirs or White Pinot Noir was vinified in a manner that allowed us to make a white wine from red grapes grown on our Estate atop the Niagara escarpment. The result is a more complex and refreshing white wine. This nicely structured wine exhibits lovely floral and honeysuckle aromas with lingering flavours of honey and melon on the finish. This wine should be enjoyed in its youth and served chilled to enhance its refreshing acidity.” My notes: A delicate peach colour with aromas of tea and stone fruit followed by flavours of tea and stone fruit, then a finish that carries along a seam of bright tang giving this light rosé a refreshing ending. Served chilled, an ideal drink for sitting on a shaded patio while munching on a Pizza Diavolo, listening to anti-starling bursts and watching grapes ripen on the vine. Not for cellaring, a recreational almost dry sipper. 84
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September 2009 Wines: 15 Tasted of 15

Merlot and Viognier are featured - hopefully with different styles and terroirs.

Except for the Australian Marsanne Viognier blend, and ones from the cellar, I kept the bottle cost closer to my original $15 target. I based a few selections on previous labels tasted: the 2006 vintage of Pasion 4 Merlot was rated Ww86, Cline’s Syrah 2007 rated higher, Casa Silva Carmenère Reserva 2005 tasted April 6, 2007 was OK, so I went with these wineries.

For additional selections I went back to Rod Phillips book 500 Best Value Wines in the LCBO 2009 reviewing it for unblended Viogniers and Merlots. I was surprised to find of the 160 whites in the book there were no Viogniers and of 302 reds, just thirty-two Merlots. No Merlots were rated 5 stars (94-100), three were rated 4½ (90-93) and nine at 4 stars (87-89) leaving twenty in the mediocre, my word not the book's, category.

The three at 4½ stars were above my target price so I went for two of the 4 star Merlots. Past Vintages releases rounded out the additional Viogniers.

When tasted, reds and whites are separately listed each sequenced by rating.
Cheers, Ww

• Rosenvale Estate Grenache 2005, 96-3  -- V, Barossa Valley, Australia, #059881 $21.95
• Ventisquero Queulat Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 93-3 -- V, Maipo Valley, Chile, #061937 $16.95
• Malivoire Old Vines Foch (Canadian Oak) 2002 VQA Ontario, 92-2 -- O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $25.00
• Valentin Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, 91-2 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #677567 $15.95
• Erath Pinot Noir Oregon 2006, 91-1 -- V, Oregon, USA, #932541 $24.95
• Ballast Stone ‘Currency Creek’ Merlot 2006, 91-2  -- V, South Australia, #127555 $16.95
• Pasión 4 Merlot 2007, 90-2  -- V, Uco Valley, Argentina, #059287 $11.95
• Trius Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85 -- G, Niagara, Canada, #587907 $15.25
• Casa Silva Reserva Merlot 2007, 84 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #718650 $14.95
• Christian Moueix Merlot 2005, 74 -- V, Bordeaux, France, #961227 $15.95

• Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2008, 92-3  -- V, Languedoc, France, #712638 $14.95
• McPherson Basilisk Marsanne Viognier 2007, 90-2 -- V, Central Victoria, Australia, #678599 $19.95
• Beauvignac Viognier 2008, 88-1  -- V, Midi, France, #525295 $14.95
• Cono Sur Visión Viognier 2008, 85 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #671131 $14.95
• Cline Viognier 2007, 82 -- V, California, USA, #128421 $15.95

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)
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TASTINGS:

BALLAST STONE ‘CURRENCY CREEK’ MERLOT 2006, South Australia, 14.5% D, #127555 $16.95 (Tasted September 6, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “… Filled with plum, blueberry and cherry aromas, this dry, flavourful, full-bodied and ripe wine is an excellent choice for your cottage barbecue.” My notes: There’s some granite to the ruby and some berry in the smoky earthy nose. Let air for twenty minutes or decant before serving. The first sip is a blending of blackberry and touch of raspberry. Dry, a full-body and a sharp spice supports silky ripe flavours making this a bold sipper and a match with most grilled meat dishes. Barbecue? Definitely. The finish leaves an oily tinge on the lips along with a distinctive sharpness in the mouth. A bold Merlot you would expect from Australia. Already aged three years I wouldn’t expect this to improve with further cellaring - perhaps to mellow a tad. 91
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CASA SILVA RESERVA MERLOT 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #718650 $14.95 (Tasted September 3, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 rated 89/100 and described by US critic Josh Raynolds (March/April 2009) as “Deep red. Pungent aromas of cherry, mint and rose, with a subtle undertone of dark chocolate. Zesty cherry and redcurrant flavours are complicated by anise and bitter chocolate, with dusty tannins adding grip. The finish is tangy and very nicely focused. I'd give this still-youthful merlot at least a year to gain sweetness.” My notes: There’s a richness to the deep ruby and light earthy scents of cherry-berry. This is a medium-bodied, tart and dry sipper with firm tannins and acids balancing bright cherry-cranberry flavours. A bramble edge gives the finish a drier and slight chemical feel or perhaps the ’anise’ showing. Needs another year to smooth some roughness. An old world red to have with grilled meats. 84
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PASIÓN 4 MERLOT 2007, Uco Valley, Argentina, 13.5% D, #059287 $11.95 (Tasted September 2, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “This Merlot is made from hand-harvested grapes sourced from the lofty heights of the Uco Valley, where the vineyards are planted at over 1000 metres above sea level. Ripe and round, this medium full-bodied wine shows attractive cassis, chocolate and smoky oak aromas and flavours. Serve with pasta in a spicy beef and tomato sauce, or alongside some grilled lamb chops.” My notes: A deep opaque ruby colour and firm film with slow tears gives this red a silky appearance… and a silky texture with scents of savoury berries. Full-bodied, smooth, berries up front and tangy cocoa filling the mouth makes this a delicious sipper. The fruit tapers off quickly as the warm tang continues on a liquorice note. Took back seat as an accompaniment to rosemary’d rack of lamb - likely better with a steak or tenderloin grilled medium rare. Cellar for a few years or drink now. 90
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COÑO SUR VISIÓN VIOGNIER 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #671131 $14.95 (Tasted September 3, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 rated 89/100 and described by US critic Josh Raynolds (March/April 2009) as “Pale yellow. Fresh lemon and peach aromas are pleasantly straightforward and complemented by subtle floral and mineral qualities. Light-bodied, fresh citrus flavors deliver good punch and are given depth by hints of melon and peach. Juicy, clean and easy to drink, with very good finishing cut.” My notes: A light golden colour with a slight grassy scent in a largely citrus nose - I did not get a specific ‘floral‘. The film is firm and tears are slow, the texture is smooth, medium-bodied and the flavour blend is a lively but mild citrus. A delightful sipper for a gathering of family and friends. Have with flavourful seafood entrées, pork cutlet and applesauce or a glazed ham steak and raisins. A commercial drink now. 85
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CLINE VIOGNIER 2007, California, USA, 14.0% D, #128421 $15.95 (Tasted September 6, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 and described as “Winner of a Double Gold at the 2008 International Eastern Wine Competition and a Gold at the 2009 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.” (want to know more about Wine Medals? see Beppi's column April 9, 2009) and by US critic Paul Gregutt (May 3, 2009) as “… this excellent viognier makes a fine sipping wine. Strong, spicy scents immediately suggest clove and tea; there are hints of honey and lemon also. A warm, round, very tasty springtime white.” My notes: This is golden in the glass and there are aromas of lemon zest and slight honey to the nose. The first sip has a strong herbaceous flavour almost masking tastes of orange, melon and honey that come out more in the long finish. This is full-bodied and a sipper if you’re up for spicy. This was a good match with pork tenderloin and applesauce or could be paired with a well cloved ham steak. Not for cellaring - a meal white and not a value for everyone. 82
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TRIUS MERLOT 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Niagara, Canada, 13.0% D, #587907 $15.25 (Tasted September 7, 2009) CS
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A General listing described anonymously and undated as “Medium-deep garnet red colour; aromas of dried cherry, red plum, toasty vanilla, mint and cranberry; dry, with balanced acidity, medium bodied, with flavours of spiced plum compote, pepper, red liquorice and cherry; moderately long finish. Serve with veal chops, stuffed peppers, or stuffed pork chops with sage dressing.” My notes: An Andres Wines Ltd. Company. This is a ripe black cherry colour and there’s a clean metallic accent to a ripe black cherry aroma. The first sip is a clean, lightly flavoured cherry, medium-bodied and smooth. A fine tannin and mild acid makes this a polite sipper, nothing bold or complex. The finish develops a spicy edge that with the fruit fades quickly. An interesting sipper for a family crowd - would also pair nicely with rack of lamb, meatloaf, minestrone or a holiday turkey. Not for cellaring - a drink now. 85
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CHRISTIAN MOUEIX MERLOT 2005, Bordeaux, France, 13.0% XD, #961227 $15.95 (Tasted September 4, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “… Year after year, the Moueix Merlot defines the grape. It's medium-bodied with flavours of sour plum and blackberry, and notes of cedar and earth. The fruit is focused and firm, with bright acidity, and a medium-long finish. It's pure magic with veal medallions and sautéed mushrooms, or baked pasta.” My notes: There’s a black cast to a clear ruby colour and inhaling brings a varnish intro to black cherry or, perhaps, a faint earthy plum scent. The first sip carries a tangy red cherry and woody bramble flavouring. Fine tannins leave the mouth dry with a cherry stone feel, some warmth and then an earthy aftertaste. Uninviting as a sipper and an inadequate accompaniment to a meatloaf and brown rice entrée. From tired vines or has languished in a warehouse for some time - not for cellaring and not a drink now. 74
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DOMAINE DES ASPES VIOGNIER 2008, Languedoc, France, 13.50% D, #712638 $14.95 (Tasted September 8, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 15, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “The latest vintage of one of the most consistent Viogniers from the Languedoc. There is an evocation of Midi-in-a-glass here, including pit fruits, Garrigue, melon and pear. Enjoy this delightful wine with spiced seafood dishes.” My notes: A delicate blond with a slight film that recedes slowly, aromatic soft floral and honey sets up this white for the first sip. On the way to being smooth, medium-bodied, there’s a touch of sweet stone fruit, honey and pear. A delightful almost dry sipper going nicely with cheeses, broccoli florets and dip or bacon stuffed mushroom caps. The finish is moderately long but mild with tangy flavours and a creamy mouthfeel. Have with seafoods or tapas. A good value and should cellar well for a few years. 92
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BEAUVIGNAC VIOGNIER 2008, Midi, France, 12.5% D, #525295 $14.95 (Tasted September 18, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on July 4, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “… a classy white… pretty aromas and flavours reminiscent of apricots, pear, peach and lime, this Viognier is pleasantly round and fruity. Incredibly versatile, it can stand on its own or be matched up with a variety of foods from grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses.” My notes: A clean blond colour and, when served slightly offchill, a perfumed aroma of orange blossom and orange peel, appealing from the first sniff. A swirl produces a thin film with a few slow tears and a sip has a mild flavour of tangy lemon and hint of orange peel. A light cream on the palate but mostly a soft lemon zest gives the finish a refreshing feel. A flexible meal white - have with most seafood or grilled then sliced chicken breast with a lightly oiled pasta side dish or green salad. Cellar up to a year, maybe two - primarily a drink now. 88
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MCPHERSON BASILISK MARSANNE VIOGNIER 2007, Central Victoria, Australia, 12.5% D, #678599 $19.95 (Tasted September 12, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 rated 90/100 and described by Australian critic James Halliday (Feb 2009) as “The musk and apricot of the viognier are more obvious than the marsanne, but it provides the freshness and structure to a successful blend. Value. Drink [until] 2013.” My notes: 80% Marsanne and 20% Viognier… there’s a brief display of orange blossoms in the nose before settling to a mild stone fruit scent. Serve a tad off chill to give flavours, and textures, a chance to unwind. The colour is golden blond with a first sip that has a light butternut quickly adding tart green apple, slight pear and orange peel - medium-bodied. The finish has a warm citrus brightness with a lasting faint orange peel edge. Sweetness isn’t prominent so I’d say it’s a dry, interesting sipper or serve with spicy mussels, salt fishes or bangers and mash. 90
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VENTISQUERO QUEULAT GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, Maipo Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #061937 $16.95 (Retasted September 8, 2009) CS
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My notes: I last tasted this red on August 20th last year. Vintages had quoted the June 2008th issue of Wine & Spirits saying it had “named Ventisquero as one of the top value brands of the year! This attractive Cab shows why with its intriguing notes of toast, earth, cassis and ripe cherry. It's dry, well-structured and elegant with impressive depth and a lingering finish.” My notes at the time said it could make a ‘long term cellarer’ and was ’an excellent value’. After a year it has the same rich ruby colour and initial flavours of velvety blackberries with cassis added. The long finish retains much of the velvet fullness and rich ripe fruit ending with rich cacao. A very interesting sipper and, along with subtle oak, flavours that evolve in the glass showing much complexity. Sip separately or have with grilled meats, anything beefy and savoury. A super value for sure. 93
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MALIVOIRE OLD VINES FOCH 2002 (Canadian Oak) VQA Ontario, Beamsville, Canada, 12.5%, XD #Winery $25.00 (Retasted September 11, 2009)
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My notes: Last tasted on April 2, 2008 and rated Ww87. This will be the fifth tasting since purchasing from the winery in November 2003. The nose is a soft, deep plum with a sweet, mild floral aroma and it’s the colour of a ripe black cherry. Full-bodied, silky, a crisp tang added to flavours of plum and sweet cherry. The finish carries the tang with the flavours lingering on the lips and upper mouth leaving a clean almost metallic mouthfeel and slight hazelnut. The mildness of the foch makes this an interesting before dinner sipper or a red to have with grilled pork or swordfish, back ribs in a soy and honey sauce or mild sausage pieces. This has improved with cellaring and likely will continue for a few more years. 92
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ERATH PINOT NOIR OREGON 2006, Oregon, USA, 13.5% XD, #932541 $24.95 (Tasted September 14, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “… This solid wine, with its cherry, tobacco leaf and earthy aromas and flavours, would be a great house red to keep around all summer long. Dry, medium-bodied and supple, it has the versatility to match everything from planked salmon to roasted chicken to gourmet burgers off the grill. It’s a born entertainer.” My notes: Tasted on June 21, 2008, I concluded it was a flavourful but mild Pinot Noir “borderline of being a rich [still] rosé” and rated it Ww88. Still pretty in a glass as a see-through dark strawberry and the nose, needing a few minutes to develop, has the perfumed scent of straw- and raspberries including a slight natural tang. Medium-bodied, silky and tangy with more tang coming in the long warm finish. Flavours of liqueur basted raspberries, a very interesting sipper, mild and luscious comes to mind. At the upper end of my budget but worth every penny. Cellaring for several years is possible. Have with smoked salmon, pan-fried trout on a bed of zucchini curls, pine nuts and roasted squash halves, pork cutlets or roast fowl. 91
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ROSENVALE ESTATE GRENACHE 2005, Barossa Valley, Australia, 15.5% D, #059881 $21.95 (Tasted September 21, 2009) CS
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My notes: Last tasted on October 3, 2008 this was released by Vintages on April 26, 2008. I rated it Ww96 at the time and rushed out and bought a dozen. Still a deep ruby with a firm film and slow legs and the initial aroma of ripe and spicy sweet black cherries… very appealing. Wine is a living thing… so am I, consequently I don’t know which has changed maybe both. Bright on the tongue, smooth and with natural flavours of juicy blackberries, a sweet liqueur and an earthy aspect. Finishes forever with warm lingering flavour accents allowing allows this to be savoured awhile before another sip. The flavours will balance nicely with beef grilled rare: tenderloin, strip loin or T-bone - also rack of lamb or grilled back ribs. A year hasn’t altered this red too much, still drinking well, less velvet and brighter. Cellar 4+ years. 96
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VALENTIN FAMIGLIA BIANCHI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #677567 $15.95 (Retasted September 25, 2009) CS
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My notes: Highly rated in September 2005 by James Molesworth (91/100) and Natalie MacLean (90/100) when I cellared a few. Then rated Ww90 in February last year down from Ww92 in September 2007. Now four years after purchase the colour is a deep opaque ruby, somewhat sombre in the glass and a firm film takes a few swirls for slow tears. The nose is earthy with prominent rich berries/currants. Full-bodied, smooth as velvet, rich in spicy black currants, a balanced tannin and tartness with a warmth that makes each sip rewarding. The finish is a mild berry compote, dense, dry and very long. Sip or pair with an equally rich meaty meal. Cellaring well and should for another four years. A limited quantity of the 2006 vintage ($16.95) released in June this year is still available. 91
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A Wonderful Thing

A Wonderful Thing
What things in your life are capital W, Wonderful? I don’t mean extraterrestrial nor psychotic but of the earthly domain. Of all the things you can imagine… is it love of family and friends, is it the birth of a child, is it the act of a good Samaritan taking in the homeless or someone dedicating their lives to giving hope and strength somewhere in the world? When you think of it there’s many things that we could say are Wonderful.
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But other than humanitarian. What of nature or science, things we don’t control or can’t participate in some way? Things that happen of their own physical and generative structure. The bursting of a flower bud as the sun draws energy from the soil, the swelling of a chrysalis as the cycle of regeneration unfolds into a moth or butterfly, migratory creatures going through their life patterns. These are truly full of Wonder.
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Now if humans intervened in any of these natural processes - to artificially improve the colours of the flower, the flavour of the fruit, the strength of muscle, the cultivation of marine life - it’s driven by some business motive. Ultimately personal gratification comes into the equation. When that intervention interferes with nature the outcome is perverted - it loses its Wonder.
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There’s a long history of viniculture in most countries that has enabled successive generations to indulge their inherited passion. Winemaking is just that - passion. And if that passion is well expressed, an income is a consequence. However, a substantial portion of current day winemaking has been perverted. It’s in man’s makeup to pervert and, in most of the sciences, man attempts to control this aspect of his character to avoid compromising spotlighted endeavours: urine tests in sports, pedigrees for pet breeders, blood samples for thoroughbreds, registering of genetically modified seeds, on and on. But there’s NO amount of testing that could keep pace with the number of wines on shelves. Every agency given the responsibility of ‘policing’ itself has found to be wanting… weighed against a whole industry creating chemicals and ‘enhancing’ ingredients for the wine industry, an industry neither controlled nor regulated but encouraged through monetary incentives. Wine needs to be spotlighted.
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I’m looking at a 30 cent can (355mL) of President’s Choice Diet Passionfruit, a flavour I associate with some of the best Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. Ignoring the carbonated water, malic acid is the first component then some natural flavour followed by potassium citrate, aspartame, potassium benzoate, citrus pectin, gum Arabic, acesulfame-potassium, colour, ester gum, calcium disodium EDTA. A recipe put together by specialists and complying with the Canadian Food and Drug Act - and a soft drink I enjoy (altho' aspartame is said to cause severe reactions as do other sweeteners).
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Now I’m looking at a bottle of wine. Whatever the country of origin, other than the mention of sulphites, there is no content listed. There’s absolutely no requirement to declare additives on wine labels. There’s no certification of additive-free winemaking facilities, no inspection notices on winery equipment nor teams of inspectors trained to confirm additive-free products and no penalties.
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A question: If the wine producer doesn’t declare additives resulting in inferred claims of a natural product isn‘t it a level of fraud? And if these additives later are found to have caused medical conditions what are the legal ramifications? And what of the vendor? Doesn’t the vendor become complicit? But how will we even suspect without labelling?
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If wines were butterflies the sky would be full of diesel operated blimps. Let’s support winemakers driven by passion and bringing Wonder to our enjoyment.
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My opinion, Ww
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Note: Googling ‘wine additives‘ brought a startling number of hits. Included were defensive notions from offending winemakers and the condemnation of some wine critics. I found the following relevant:

• Gord Stimmell‘s column, July 02, 2009
• Rebecca- Tuscan Wine Tours
• Graham Tibbetts, Sept 15, 2008

September 2009 Bubblies: 8 Tasted of 8

It’s been awhile since tasting a group of bubblies. These are mostly extra dry Cavas and some are retastings of previously enjoyed sparkling wines from the cellar. A Riesling, a Pinot Noir and various blends with most being blends of Spanish grapes, Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada. Spain, Canada, US and Italy are represented. Likely not enough to demonstrate style, terroir and grape but it‘s an attempt on a tight budget. Especially for bubblies, a rating number isn’t complete without tasting notes.
Wines are sequenced by rating when tasted.
Cheers, Ww

• Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine NV, 92-2 -- V, California, USA, #100693 $23.95
• Tenuta S. Anna Cuvée Rosé Brut NV, 90-2 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #126300 $15.95
• Codorniu Non Plus Ultra NV, 90-2 -- G, Penedès, Spain, #053660 $20.95
• Konzelmann Sparkling Riesling NV VQA Ontario, 89-2 -- V, Niagara, Canada, #031401 $14.95
• Codorniu Pinot Noir Rosé Brut Cava NV, 88-1 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #665372 $16.95
• Castillo Perelada Reserva Brut Cava, 87 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #114488 $17.95
• Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Nature Cava NV, 83 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #122382 $17.95
• Poema Brut Cava NV, 82 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #121152 $15.95

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)


TASTINGS:

CASTILLO PERELADA RESERVA BRUT CAVA, Spain, 11.5% XD, #114488 $17.95 (Tasted September 1, 2009) CS

A Vintages release on June 20, 2009 rated 90/100 and described by Wine & Spirits (Aug. 2005) as “Firm and spicy, this Cava is driven by a baking-spice and apple flavour. It hovers just this side of sweet, checked by the mousse and the spice, a match for Chilean … razor clams gratinéed with parmesan cheese.” My notes: A golden blond in the glass with streams of moderately sized bubbles. A scent of a light yeast front ends an extra dry burst of citrus, refreshing enough for raw oysters, rashers of bacon on rye or a dry speech. Any sweetness is overwhelmed by a medium-bodied lemon zest that continues to a chalk-dry finish. A special bubbly to sip during a happy moment or to gulp with a cold shrimp plate, spicy NZ mussels, flavourful tapas or shaved proscuitto and cheeses. A drink now. 87
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POEMA BRUT CAVA NV, Penedes, Spain, 11.5% XD, #121152 $15.95 (Tasted September 22, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 described by US critic Sandy Block, (Aug. 2008) as “This is one of the real stars. Bone dry, with baked bread aromas and a crisp, lemony apple flavor profile, it's a great wind down wine after work. And the bottle is ultra-classy, always a plus for a sparkler.” My notes: ‘Ultra-classy’? Looks like most other bubblies to me. But ‘bone dry’ it is and there’s a fine burst of bubbles to last throughout a normal sipping period. There’s a fairly neutral nose, a nice creamy mouthfeel and a delicate green apple flavour that doesn’t distract from a fine and full spritz. A touch of cream is left for the finish along with dry apple skin. A refreshing summer time bubbly or have as a passable toast for a special occasion. A drink now and, to me, not a value. 82
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PERE VENTURA TRESOR BRUT NATURE CAVA NV, Penedès, Spain, 11.5% XD, #122382 $17.95 (Tasted September 17, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 1, 2009 described by Wine & Spirit (UK) (July 23, 2007) as “Good limey austerity on the nose with apples and flowers on the palate. A buttery richness and breadth on the palate, too. The bubbles are a bit too fine, but there's plenty of character.” and “Winner of a Gold Medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2008.” My notes: A blend of Xarel-lo, Parellada, Macabeo made in a very Brut style and priced more appropriately at $10 in the US. A light straw and an almost imperceptible nose of lemon juice, a nip with the first sip that lasts as a warm, slightly creamy citrus to a very chalk dry end. The bubbles come fast and furious at first but subside quickly leaving a lively spritz. Medium-bodied with a light butter to have with fresh oysters or just sip on a summer afternoon. Not for cellaring, a drink now. 83
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KONZELMANN SPARKLING RIESLING NV VQA Ontario, Niagara, Canada, 12.5% D, #031401 $14.95 (Retasted September 26, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on May 12, 2007 described as "This refreshing fizz is perfect for a springtime brunch or as an aperitif. Winemaker Herbert Konzelmann uses the Charmat method, which involves secondary fermentation in pressurized tanks, to give this wine its sparkle. Made with 100% Riesling, it's bursting with citrus fruit flavours balanced by racy acidity. Try it with smoked salmon." My notes: Purchased from the 2007 Release and last tasted in November 2007. Rated Ww89 with the comment “A value sparkling - or a sparkling value”. Sold out at the winery and no longer listed at the LCBO. Starts out as a burst of foam and bubbles with the carbon dioxide smart in an apple and yeast nose. Lively bubbles and a light spritz softened by a mild cream provide an interesting background for delicious pear and apple. The fruit carries into a long smooth finish making this a sociable sipper with universal appeal, mildly tart by Spanish standards. Have as an aperitif or with a summer buffet. Has cellared well and should continue for several years. 89
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DOMAINE CHANDON BLANC DE NOIRS SPARKLING WINE NV, California, USA, 13.0% D, #100693 $23.95 (Retasted September 29, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on December 6, 2008 described anonymously as “Moët & Chandon, one of Champagne's most prestigious houses and purveyors of the legendary Dom Pérignon, were among the first to spot the potential for crafting fine sparkling wine in California. Established in the 1970s, Domaine Chandon was the first sparkling wine producer in California to craft wines using the traditional method of Champagne. This festive, ready-to-drink bubbly is soft and elegant with ripe cherry and strawberry aromas as well as notes of vanilla and spice. It's rich but nicely balanced by a seam of crisp acidity. Classic style and a great value too!” My notes: Vintages has released this each December the last few years, this one from December 9, 2006. A retaste on May 26, 2007 noted “… unless [traditional] colour is important… why pay more for 'champagne'?”. Now two dollars more but still a value for a champagne equivalent. A blend of 79% Pinot Noir, 14% Pinot Meunier and 7% Chardonnay with a soft peach hue and scent of a yeast and vanilla tainted melba apple. The sound of fine foam subsiding on pouring and a rim of foam at the end means the mousse follows through from start to finish. Bright, smooth and well balanced marks a very pleasurable toasting bubbly or a casual sipper before dinner. This has kept well since purchase. 92
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CODORNÍU NON PLUS ULTRA NV, Penedès, Spain, 11.5% D, #053660 $20.95 (Retasted September 24, 2009) CS
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My notes: Last tasted on December 17, 2007 with a rating of Ww91 and the comment ‘A value for a brut of a bubbly.’ This isn’t listed at the LCBO at this time. A blend of Chardonnay(50%), Macabeo(20%), Perelada(20%) and Xarello(10%) having the distinctive nose and flavours of a Spanish bubbly. Brut, pale gold with a burst of foam and continuous stream of fine bubbles. The nose is fresh and half between yeasty and stone fruit in scent. Fine bubbles burst on first sip, dry but with a taint of sweet pear and tart apple then finishing dry with a firm cream and a spicy edge then cream returning. Should be great with fresh oysters or a lobster /crab /shrimp plate. Has cellared well perhaps adding more spice notes. 90
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CODORNÍU PINOT NOIR ROSÉ BRUT CAVA NV, Penedès, Spain, 12.0% XD, #665372 $16.95 (Tasted September 5, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on July 18, 2009 described by New Orleans critic Brenda Maitland (Feb 9, 2009) as “Both well priced and well made, this elegant wine is produced from 100 percent Pinot Noir grapes with a minimum of nine months bottle aging. In the glass, a fine fizz tickles the nose with fragrances of red berries and cherries. It is crisp and vibrant on the palate, and complex raspberry and strawberry flavors mingle with refreshing citrus notes. It's a wonderful wine as an aperitif, with a meal or as a digestif. Serve it with salmon, poultry, fruit and soft cheeses.” My notes: The colour of crushed strawberry, streams of fine to moderately sized bubbles and a scent of watermelon, if you sniff hard, gives this mainly eye appeal in both the spectacular bottle or a glass. Bubbles burst on the palate, dry for sure, smooth with a delicate flavour blended from faint strawberry and watermelon. A polite sipper finishing extra dry, refreshing with some flavour remnants. A great summer time sipper. Have with crab cake appetizers, a King crab leg valentine feast or a lobster fest. It won’t improve through cellaring but could keep for a few years. Drinking well now. 88
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TENUTA S. ANNA CUVÉE ROSÉ BRUT NV, Veneto, Italy, 11.5% D, #126300 $15.95 (Tasted September 11, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 15, 2009 described by their Panel (June 2009) as “Pale peachy pink in colour, this refreshing rosé fizz is a blend of 70% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and 30% Merlot. The nose offers aromas of candied strawberry, pink grapefruit, sweet redcurrants and pear. It's dry, light-bodied with an easygoing round texture. Bright flavours of strawberry, red berries and tangerine are balanced by a gentle effervescence and zesty acidity. It's terrific as a summer afternoon sipper or pair with seared salmon.” My notes: There is a strong peachy tone to this delicately coloured rosé and the aroma is a grassy yeast. Lots of bubbles of all sizes come on pouring with enough left for a few streams. Satin smooth with a fine spritzy, strawberry, watermelon and pear flavour blend, a good tang and just a touch of sweetness makes this a delightful sipper. The finish is more of the same gradually ebbing leading to another sip. Have with three corner sandwiches: tuna, ham and pickle, chicken salad, lobster bisque or crab cakes - a versatile bubbly. A value now that should keep for a few more years. 90

Time to say No…

Time to say No…

There are many good things that I miss about Victoria B.C. where we lived for three years. The one related to wine is the small store on upper Church Street. I forget the name and don’t even know if it’s still there but it was a special place.
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Ordering wine by the bottle or the case I could depend on the proprietor’s recommendations. Owned by a roughly hewn retiree who recounted trips to vineyards close by and far off, living the terroirs in his nostrils and 'buds, working first with the young shoots stripping away sucklings to nurture stronger growth of luscious fruit he’d later sample as he hand harvested on contract. He no longer travelled the tilled ruts but left with many personal relationships of winemakers and wineries later needed for his niche in the wine trade. His shelves were of consistently reliable labels vintage after vintage. I miss the occasion to chat, to swirl and sip, as I stocked my cellar without conscious concern.
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Fast forward to Ontario. Buying cautiously has become the norm. Try a bottle, try another and yet another. Not quite like buying a Lotto 649 ticket but close. And I’m confident layers of executive dine sumptuously on my monthly wine tab - and yet another bureaucracy returning unearned taxes to the government of the day. Don’t get me wrong - this rant separates the ‘outlet staff’ from the echelon driving the LCBO marketing policy. The service is always courteous. The LCBO publications are slick with ideas. Their seminar coordinators eagerly offer excellent food and drink tips. However, the marketing principle lubricates a mythology of one commercial brand on top of another without distinction for quality or value. Sell, sell, sell. Buy, buy, buy.
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The LCBO has and will continue to have a major role in Ontario’s winescape. It’s time though to introduce private enterprise into the equation. Expand the LCBO to serve locations where private retailers would not survive - a welcomed government intervention. But lift the restraints to private initiative. Allow wine merchants a license to procure and sell wines of their choosing. If the corner mom and pop wants to sell nonVQA, Yellow Tail, French Cross or whatever license them too. Provide an infrastructure to introduce wine stores that specialize not only in wines but also accessories: glasses, coolers, cellar space, picnic accessories - whatever. Allow the craft wineries of Niagara to sell product through these merchants without bureaucratic encumbrances. Imagine wines of the world coming to a store near you!
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What prompted this rant? Marcus Gee’s column (G&M, August 29) states its “Time to say No to the LCBO”. I say it’s past time. Relying on a profit and tax motivated business to source ’value’ wines doesn’t serve the customer. It’s just not acceptable.
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I miss my old friend… and the integrity and truthfulness for each label on his time worn shelves.
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A melancholy Ww

Bananas and Wine

Too often a wine rated a respectable 4 stars (87-89) will be average to plonk (less than 82) when I taste it. I can’t imagine that my taste buds are aligned so differently to explain such a discrepancy. So quite awhile ago I started tracking many of the factors going into a rating: the reviewer, the date of tasting, the occurrence of anonymous and undated tasting notes… anything that would give me a clue of what was going on. On the verge of an obsession? Maybe…. I think of it as being aware.

Now, if a bottle took on the chameleon characteristics of a banana there wouldn’t be any difficulty ‘reading a wine’. Bright green - lay down awhile, bright yellow - ‘drink now’ and brown spotted - past due. How many times have I read ‘magic in a bottle‘, a ‘fruit bomb‘, ‘buy a case’ when the truth is don’t touch it with a barge pole. How many times have I seen a wine re-released by Vintages only to find it’s well past due… in my imagination a bottle from a previous release, unsold, then left to languish in the warehouse until memories have faded. It’s brought out of retirement described anonymously and undated as ‘Pure magic of Merlot’.

Lacking the banana capability the underlying foundation starting my selection process is a rating. Don’t ask me to read more than a dozen tasting notes - it’s not going to happen.

When I look for a rating - whether stars, corks, thumbs up/down or a number - I’m looking for a quick comparison of wines. It allows me to quickly eliminate ninety percent of the wines on a Vintages list or in a Vines magazine - perhaps retaining a few of the ‘discards’ in my initial cull. Now a dozen or so wines are being considered and I go to their tasting notes. That’s when descriptors such as body, texture, grape variety or blend stir something in my thought process. It’s a left-brain right-brain thing… it’s when I‘m thinking of aromas, food flavours or a happening. Often a country or region and/or the name on the bottle stirs a memory, positive or negative. Seldom does marketing come into it: bottle appearance, ‘kewl’ phrasing, sexual innuendos, etc. and I stopped reading backs of labels years ago.

This whole process is completed in, at most, a minute or two.

There’s a common controversy among wine articles now and then, sometimes it’s subtle sometimes not. The controversy is with Robert Parker Jr.’s 100 point rating system. The argument often is “How can a number represent the merit of a wine?” The simple answer is ‘It doesn’t!’ and I extend this to ‘… and was never intended!“ The question is simply a red herring in an author’s dialogue where he already has decided he doesn’t want to keep score.

Arguing against the point system is tantamount to a jury listening throughout a trial and not coming to a verdict. It’s like watching a football game and not keeping score… throwing darts and not marking points. Numbers don’t tell you how the game was played - just the result. Tell me Tiger Woods is 7 under versus Mike Weir’s -6 coming up the last nine and I’m interested.

Ultimately whether there is a number or not I must deal with the source! Is it FOX News or CNN? The Toronto Star or the G&M? All best analyses could be wasted if the source isn’t known. And I mean KNOW the source. I mean how often has my taste differed. How often are claims exaggerated. I’m not saying my ‘blackberry’ differs from his/her 'black currant’ but does ’stone fruit’ really mean ’stagnant pond’? Does verbal eloquence obfuscate truth?

Until someone invents a banana skinned bottle it’s Buyer Beware.
My opinion, Ww