Except for the Australian Marsanne Viognier blend, and ones from the cellar, I kept the bottle cost closer to my original $15 target. I based a few selections on previous labels tasted: the 2006 vintage of Pasion 4 Merlot was rated Ww86, Cline’s Syrah 2007 rated higher, Casa Silva Carmenère Reserva 2005 tasted April 6, 2007 was OK, so I went with these wineries.
For additional selections I went back to Rod Phillips book 500 Best Value Wines in the LCBO 2009 reviewing it for unblended Viogniers and Merlots. I was surprised to find of the 160 whites in the book there were no Viogniers and of 302 reds, just thirty-two Merlots. No Merlots were rated 5 stars (94-100), three were rated 4½ (90-93) and nine at 4 stars (87-89) leaving twenty in the mediocre, my word not the book's, category.
The three at 4½ stars were above my target price so I went for two of the 4 star Merlots. Past Vintages releases rounded out the additional Viogniers.
When tasted, reds and whites are separately listed each sequenced by rating.
Cheers, Ww
- Rosenvale Estate Grenache 2005, 96-3 -- V, Barossa Valley, Australia, #059881 $21.95
- Ventisquero Queulat Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 93-3 -- V, Maipo Valley, Chile, #061937 $16.95
- Malivoire Old Vines Foch (Canadian Oak) 2002 VQA Ontario, 92-2 -- O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $25.00
- Valentin Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, 91-2 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #677567 $15.95
- Erath Pinot Noir Oregon 2006, 91-1 -- V, Oregon, USA, #932541 $24.95
- Ballast Stone ‘Currency Creek’ Merlot 2006, 91-2 -- V, South Australia, #127555 $16.95
- Pasión 4 Merlot 2007, 90-2 -- V, Uco Valley, Argentina, #059287 $11.95
- Trius Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85 -- G, Niagara, Canada, #587907 $15.25
- Casa Silva Reserva Merlot 2007, 84 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #718650 $14.95
- Christian Moueix Merlot 2005, 74 -- V, Bordeaux, France, #961227 $15.95
- Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2008, 92-3 -- V, Languedoc, France, #712638 $14.95
- McPherson Basilisk Marsanne Viognier 2007, 90-2 -- V, Central Victoria, Australia, #678599 $19.95
- Beauvignac Viognier 2008, 88-1 -- V, Midi, France, #525295 $14.95
- Cono Sur Visión Viognier 2008, 85 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #671131 $14.95
- Cline Viognier 2007, 82 -- V, California, USA, #128421 $15.95
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TASTINGS:
BALLAST STONE ‘CURRENCY CREEK’ MERLOT 2006, South Australia, 14.5% D, #127555 $16.95 (Tasted September 6, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “… Filled with plum, blueberry and cherry aromas, this dry, flavourful, full-bodied and ripe wine is an excellent choice for your cottage barbecue.” My notes: There’s some granite to the ruby and some berry in the smoky earthy nose. Let air for twenty minutes or decant before serving. The first sip is a blending of blackberry and touch of raspberry. Dry, a full-body and a sharp spice supports silky ripe flavours making this a bold sipper and a match with most grilled meat dishes. Barbecue? Definitely. The finish leaves an oily tinge on the lips along with a distinctive sharpness in the mouth. A bold Merlot you would expect from
Australia. Already aged three years I wouldn’t expect this to improve with further cellaring - perhaps to mellow a tad. 91.
CASA SILVA RESERVA MERLOT 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #718650 $14.95 (Tasted September 3, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 rated 89/100 and described by US critic Josh Raynolds (March/April 2009) as “Deep red. Pungent aromas of cherry, mint and rose, with a subtle undertone of dark chocolate. Zesty cherry and redcurrant flavours are complicated by anise and bitter chocolate, with dusty tannins adding grip. The finish is tangy and very nicely focused. I'd give this still-youthful merlot at least a year to gain sweetness.” My notes: There’s a richness to the deep ruby and light earthy scents of cherry-berry. This is a medium-bodied, tart and dry sipper with firm tannins and acids balancing bright cherry-cranberry flavours. A bramble edge gives the finish a drier and slight chemical feel or perhaps the ’anise’ showing. Needs another year to smooth some roughness. An old world red to have with grilled meats. 84
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PASIÓN 4 MERLOT 2007, Uco Valley, Argentina, 13.5% D, #059287 $11.95 (Tasted September 2, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “This Merlot is made from hand-harvested grapes sourced from the lofty heights of the Uco Valley, where the vineyards are planted at over 1000 metres above sea level. Ripe and round, this medium full-bodied wine shows attractive cassis, chocolate and smoky oak aromas and flavours. Serve with pasta in a spicy beef and tomato sauce, or alongside some grilled lamb chops.” My notes: A deep opaque ruby colour and firm film with slow tears gives this red a silky appearance… and a silky texture with scents of savoury berries. Full-bodied, smooth, berries up front and tangy cocoa filling the mouth makes this a delicious sipper. The fruit tapers off quickly as the warm tang continues on a liquorice note. Took back seat as an accompaniment to rosemary’d rack of lamb - likely better with a steak or tenderloin grilled medium rare. Cellar for a few years or drink now. 90
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COÑO SUR VISIÓN VIOGNIER 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #671131 $14.95 (Tasted September 3, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 rated 89/100 and described by US critic Josh Raynolds (March/April 2009) as “Pale yellow. Fresh lemon and peach aromas are pleasantly straightforward and complemented by subtle floral and mineral qualities. Light-bodied, fresh citrus flavors deliver good punch and are given depth by hints of melon and peach. Juicy, clean and easy to drink, with very good finishing cut.” My notes: A light golden colour with a slight grassy scent in a largely citrus nose - I did not get a specific ‘floral‘. The film is firm and tears are slow, the texture is smooth, medium-bodied and the flavour blend is a lively but mild citrus. A delightful sipper for a gathering of family and friends. Have with flavourful seafood entrées, pork cutlet and applesauce or a glazed ham steak and raisins. A commercial drink now. 85
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CLINE VIOGNIER 2007, California, USA, 14.0% D, #128421 $15.95 (Tasted September 6, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 and described as “Winner of a Double Gold at the 2008 International Eastern Wine Competition and a Gold at the 2009 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.” (want to know more about Wine Medals? see Beppi's column April 9, 2009) and by US critic Paul Gregutt (May 3, 2009) as “… this excellent viognier makes a fine sipping wine. Strong, spicy scents immediately suggest clove and tea; there are hints of honey and lemon also. A warm, round, very tasty springtime white.” My notes: This is golden in the glass and there are aromas of lemon zest and slight honey to the nose. The first sip has a strong herbaceous flavour almost masking tastes of orange, melon and honey that come out more in the long finish. This is full-bodied and a sipper if you’re up for spicy. This was a good match with pork tenderloin and applesauce or could be paired with a well cloved ham steak. Not for cellaring - a meal white and not a value for everyone. 82
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TRIUS MERLOT 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Niagara, Canada, 13.0% D, #587907 $15.25 (Tasted September 7, 2009) CS
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A General listing described anonymously and undated as “Medium-deep garnet red colour; aromas of dried cherry, red plum, toasty vanilla, mint and cranberry; dry, with balanced acidity, medium bodied, with flavours of spiced plum compote, pepper, red liquorice and cherry; moderately long finish. Serve with veal chops, stuffed peppers, or stuffed pork chops with sage dressing.” My notes: An Andres Wines Ltd. Company. This is a ripe black cherry colour and there’s a clean metallic accent to a ripe black cherry aroma. The first sip is a clean, lightly flavoured cherry, medium-bodied and smooth. A fine tannin and mild acid makes this a polite sipper, nothing bold or complex. The finish develops a spicy edge that with the fruit fades quickly. An interesting sipper for a family crowd - would also pair nicely with rack of lamb, meatloaf, minestrone or a holiday turkey. Not for cellaring - a drink now. 85
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CHRISTIAN MOUEIX MERLOT 2005, Bordeaux, France, 13.0% XD, #961227 $15.95 (Tasted September 4, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “… Year after year, the Moueix Merlot defines the grape. It's medium-bodied with flavours of sour plum and blackberry, and notes of cedar and earth. The fruit is focused and firm, with bright acidity, and a medium-long finish. It's pure magic with veal medallions and sautéed mushrooms, or baked pasta.” My notes: There’s a black cast to a clear ruby colour and inhaling brings a varnish intro to black cherry or, perhaps, a faint earthy plum scent. The first sip carries a tangy red cherry and woody bramble flavouring. Fine tannins leave the mouth dry with a cherry stone feel, some warmth and then an earthy aftertaste. Uninviting as a sipper and an inadequate accompaniment to a meatloaf and brown rice entrée. From tired vines or has languished in a warehouse for some time - not for cellaring and not a drink now. 74
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DOMAINE DES ASPES VIOGNIER 2008, Languedoc, France, 13.50% D, #712638 $14.95 (Tasted September 8, 2009) CS.
A Vintages release on August 15, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “The latest vintage of one of the most consistent Viogniers from the Languedoc. There is an evocation of Midi-in-a-glass here, including pit fruits, Garrigue, melon and pear. Enjoy this delightful wine with spiced seafood dishes.” My notes: A delicate blond with a slight film that recedes slowly, aromatic soft floral and honey sets up this white for the first sip. On the way to being smooth, medium-bodied, there’s a touch of sweet stone fruit, honey and pear. A delightful almost dry sipper going nicely with cheeses, broccoli florets and dip or bacon stuffed mushroom caps. The finish is moderately long but mild with tangy flavours and a creamy mouthfeel. Have with seafoods or tapas. A good value and should cellar well for a few years. 92
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BEAUVIGNAC VIOGNIER 2008, Midi, France, 12.5% D, #525295 $14.95 (Tasted September 18, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on July 4, 2009 described anonymously and undated as “… a classy white… pretty aromas and flavours reminiscent of apricots, pear, peach and lime, this Viognier is pleasantly round and fruity. Incredibly versatile, it can stand on its own or be matched up with a variety of foods from grilled cod with lemon and garlic, to seared scallops, to a selection of fine cheeses.” My notes: A clean blond colour and, when served slightly offchill, a perfumed aroma of orange blossom and orange peel, appealing from the first sniff. A swirl produces a thin film with a few slow tears and a sip has a mild flavour of tangy lemon and hint of orange peel. A light cream on the palate but mostly a soft lemon zest gives the finish a refreshing feel. A flexible meal white - have with most seafood or grilled then sliced chicken breast with a lightly oiled pasta side dish or green salad. Cellar up to a year, maybe two - primarily a drink now. 88
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MCPHERSON BASILISK MARSANNE VIOGNIER 2007, Central Victoria, Australia, 12.5% D, #678599 $19.95 (Tasted September 12, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 rated 90/100 and described by Australian critic James Halliday (Feb 2009) as “The musk and apricot of the viognier are more obvious than the marsanne, but it provides the freshness and structure to a successful blend. Value. Drink [until] 2013.” My notes: 80% Marsanne and 20% Viognier… there’s a brief display of orange blossoms in the nose before settling to a mild stone fruit scent. Serve a tad off chill to give flavours, and textures, a chance to unwind. The colour is golden blond with a first sip that has a light butternut quickly adding tart green apple, slight pear and orange peel - medium-bodied. The finish has a warm citrus brightness with a lasting faint orange peel edge. Sweetness isn’t prominent so I’d say it’s a dry, interesting sipper or serve with spicy mussels, salt fishes or bangers and mash. 90
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VENTISQUERO QUEULAT GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, Maipo Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #061937 $16.95 (Retasted September 8, 2009) CS
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My notes: I last tasted this red on August 20th last year. Vintages had quoted the June 2008th issue of Wine & Spirits saying it had “named Ventisquero as one of the top value brands of the year! This attractive Cab shows why with its intriguing notes of toast, earth, cassis and ripe cherry. It's dry, well-structured and elegant with impressive depth and a lingering finish.” My notes at the time said it could make a ‘long term cellarer’ and was ’an excellent value’. After a year it has the same rich ruby colour and initial flavours of velvety blackberries with cassis added. The long finish retains much of the velvet fullness and rich ripe fruit ending with rich cacao. A very interesting sipper and, along with subtle oak, flavours that evolve in the glass showing much complexity. Sip separately or have with grilled meats, anything beefy and savoury. A super value for sure. 93.
MALIVOIRE OLD VINES FOCH 2002 (Canadian Oak) VQA Ontario, Beamsville, Canada, 12.5%, XD #Winery $25.00 (Retasted September 11, 2009).
My notes: Last tasted on April 2, 2008 and rated Ww87. This will be the fifth tasting since purchasing from the winery in November 2003. The nose is a soft, deep plum with a sweet, mild floral aroma and it’s the colour of a ripe black cherry. Full-bodied, silky, a crisp tang added to flavours of plum and sweet cherry. The finish carries the tang with the flavours lingering on the lips and upper mouth leaving a clean almost metallic mouthfeel and slight hazelnut. The mildness of the foch makes this an interesting before dinner sipper or a red to have with grilled pork or swordfish, back ribs in a soy and honey sauce or mild sausage pieces. This has improved with cellaring and likely will continue for a few more years. 92
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ERATH PINOT NOIR OREGON 2006, Oregon, USA, 13.5% XD, #932541 $24.95 (Tasted September 14, 2009) CS
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A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “… This solid wine, with its cherry, tobacco leaf and earthy aromas and flavours, would be a great house red to keep around all summer long. Dry, medium-bodied and supple, it has the versatility to match everything from planked salmon to roasted chicken to gourmet burgers off the grill. It’s a born entertainer.” My notes: Tasted on June 21, 2008, I concluded it was a flavourful but mild Pinot Noir “borderline of being a rich [still] rosé” and rated it Ww88. Still pretty in a glass as a see-through dark strawberry and the nose, needing a few minutes to develop, has the perfumed scent of straw- and raspberries including a slight natural tang. Medium-bodied, silky and tangy with more tang coming in the long warm finish. Flavours of liqueur basted raspberries, a very interesting sipper, mild and luscious comes to mind. At the upper end of my budget but worth every penny. Cellaring for several years is possible. Have with smoked salmon, pan-fried trout on a bed of zucchini curls, pine nuts and roasted squash halves, pork cutlets or roast fowl. 91
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ROSENVALE ESTATE GRENACHE 2005, Barossa Valley, Australia, 15.5% D, #059881 $21.95 (Tasted September 21, 2009) CS.
My notes: Last tasted on October 3, 2008 this was released by Vintages on April 26, 2008. I rated it Ww96 at the time and rushed out and bought a dozen. Still a deep ruby with a firm film and slow legs and the initial aroma of ripe and spicy sweet black cherries… very appealing. Wine is a living thing… so am I, consequently I don’t know which has changed maybe both. Bright on the tongue, smooth and with natural flavours of juicy blackberries, a sweet liqueur and an earthy aspect. Finishes forever with warm lingering flavour accents allowing allows this to be savoured awhile before another sip. The flavours will balance nicely with beef grilled rare: tenderloin, strip loin or T-bone - also rack of lamb or grilled back ribs. A year hasn’t altered this red too much, still drinking well, less velvet and brighter. Cellar 4+ years. 96
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VALENTIN FAMIGLIA BIANCHI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #677567 $15.95 (Retasted September 25, 2009) CS
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My notes: Highly rated in September 2005 by James Molesworth (91/100) and Natalie MacLean (90/100) when I cellared a few. Then rated Ww90 in February last year down from Ww92 in September 2007. Now four years after purchase the colour is a deep opaque ruby, somewhat sombre in the glass and a firm film takes a few swirls for slow tears. The nose is earthy with prominent rich berries/currants. Full-bodied, smooth as velvet, rich in spicy black currants, a balanced tannin and tartness with a warmth that makes each sip rewarding. The finish is a mild berry compote, dense, dry and very long. Sip or pair with an equally rich meaty meal. Cellaring well and should for another four years. A limited quantity of the 2006 vintage ($16.95) released in June this year is still available. 91.
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