September 2009 Bubblies: 8 Tasted of 8

It’s been awhile since tasting a group of bubblies. These are mostly extra dry Cavas and some are retastings of previously enjoyed sparkling wines from the cellar. A Riesling, a Pinot Noir and various blends with most being blends of Spanish grapes, Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada. Spain, Canada, US and Italy are represented. Likely not enough to demonstrate style, terroir and grape but it‘s an attempt on a tight budget. Especially for bubblies, a rating number isn’t complete without tasting notes.
Wines are sequenced by rating when tasted.
Cheers, Ww

• Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine NV, 92-2 -- V, California, USA, #100693 $23.95
• Tenuta S. Anna Cuvée Rosé Brut NV, 90-2 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #126300 $15.95
• Codorniu Non Plus Ultra NV, 90-2 -- G, Penedès, Spain, #053660 $20.95
• Konzelmann Sparkling Riesling NV VQA Ontario, 89-2 -- V, Niagara, Canada, #031401 $14.95
• Codorniu Pinot Noir Rosé Brut Cava NV, 88-1 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #665372 $16.95
• Castillo Perelada Reserva Brut Cava, 87 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #114488 $17.95
• Pere Ventura Tresor Brut Nature Cava NV, 83 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #122382 $17.95
• Poema Brut Cava NV, 82 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #121152 $15.95

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)


TASTINGS:

CASTILLO PERELADA RESERVA BRUT CAVA, Spain, 11.5% XD, #114488 $17.95 (Tasted September 1, 2009) CS

A Vintages release on June 20, 2009 rated 90/100 and described by Wine & Spirits (Aug. 2005) as “Firm and spicy, this Cava is driven by a baking-spice and apple flavour. It hovers just this side of sweet, checked by the mousse and the spice, a match for Chilean … razor clams gratinéed with parmesan cheese.” My notes: A golden blond in the glass with streams of moderately sized bubbles. A scent of a light yeast front ends an extra dry burst of citrus, refreshing enough for raw oysters, rashers of bacon on rye or a dry speech. Any sweetness is overwhelmed by a medium-bodied lemon zest that continues to a chalk-dry finish. A special bubbly to sip during a happy moment or to gulp with a cold shrimp plate, spicy NZ mussels, flavourful tapas or shaved proscuitto and cheeses. A drink now. 87
.
POEMA BRUT CAVA NV, Penedes, Spain, 11.5% XD, #121152 $15.95 (Tasted September 22, 2009) CS
.
A Vintages release on August 29, 2009 described by US critic Sandy Block, (Aug. 2008) as “This is one of the real stars. Bone dry, with baked bread aromas and a crisp, lemony apple flavor profile, it's a great wind down wine after work. And the bottle is ultra-classy, always a plus for a sparkler.” My notes: ‘Ultra-classy’? Looks like most other bubblies to me. But ‘bone dry’ it is and there’s a fine burst of bubbles to last throughout a normal sipping period. There’s a fairly neutral nose, a nice creamy mouthfeel and a delicate green apple flavour that doesn’t distract from a fine and full spritz. A touch of cream is left for the finish along with dry apple skin. A refreshing summer time bubbly or have as a passable toast for a special occasion. A drink now and, to me, not a value. 82
.
PERE VENTURA TRESOR BRUT NATURE CAVA NV, Penedès, Spain, 11.5% XD, #122382 $17.95 (Tasted September 17, 2009) CS
.
A Vintages release on August 1, 2009 described by Wine & Spirit (UK) (July 23, 2007) as “Good limey austerity on the nose with apples and flowers on the palate. A buttery richness and breadth on the palate, too. The bubbles are a bit too fine, but there's plenty of character.” and “Winner of a Gold Medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2008.” My notes: A blend of Xarel-lo, Parellada, Macabeo made in a very Brut style and priced more appropriately at $10 in the US. A light straw and an almost imperceptible nose of lemon juice, a nip with the first sip that lasts as a warm, slightly creamy citrus to a very chalk dry end. The bubbles come fast and furious at first but subside quickly leaving a lively spritz. Medium-bodied with a light butter to have with fresh oysters or just sip on a summer afternoon. Not for cellaring, a drink now. 83
.
KONZELMANN SPARKLING RIESLING NV VQA Ontario, Niagara, Canada, 12.5% D, #031401 $14.95 (Retasted September 26, 2009) CS
.
A Vintages release on May 12, 2007 described as "This refreshing fizz is perfect for a springtime brunch or as an aperitif. Winemaker Herbert Konzelmann uses the Charmat method, which involves secondary fermentation in pressurized tanks, to give this wine its sparkle. Made with 100% Riesling, it's bursting with citrus fruit flavours balanced by racy acidity. Try it with smoked salmon." My notes: Purchased from the 2007 Release and last tasted in November 2007. Rated Ww89 with the comment “A value sparkling - or a sparkling value”. Sold out at the winery and no longer listed at the LCBO. Starts out as a burst of foam and bubbles with the carbon dioxide smart in an apple and yeast nose. Lively bubbles and a light spritz softened by a mild cream provide an interesting background for delicious pear and apple. The fruit carries into a long smooth finish making this a sociable sipper with universal appeal, mildly tart by Spanish standards. Have as an aperitif or with a summer buffet. Has cellared well and should continue for several years. 89
.
DOMAINE CHANDON BLANC DE NOIRS SPARKLING WINE NV, California, USA, 13.0% D, #100693 $23.95 (Retasted September 29, 2009) CS
.
A Vintages release on December 6, 2008 described anonymously as “Moët & Chandon, one of Champagne's most prestigious houses and purveyors of the legendary Dom Pérignon, were among the first to spot the potential for crafting fine sparkling wine in California. Established in the 1970s, Domaine Chandon was the first sparkling wine producer in California to craft wines using the traditional method of Champagne. This festive, ready-to-drink bubbly is soft and elegant with ripe cherry and strawberry aromas as well as notes of vanilla and spice. It's rich but nicely balanced by a seam of crisp acidity. Classic style and a great value too!” My notes: Vintages has released this each December the last few years, this one from December 9, 2006. A retaste on May 26, 2007 noted “… unless [traditional] colour is important… why pay more for 'champagne'?”. Now two dollars more but still a value for a champagne equivalent. A blend of 79% Pinot Noir, 14% Pinot Meunier and 7% Chardonnay with a soft peach hue and scent of a yeast and vanilla tainted melba apple. The sound of fine foam subsiding on pouring and a rim of foam at the end means the mousse follows through from start to finish. Bright, smooth and well balanced marks a very pleasurable toasting bubbly or a casual sipper before dinner. This has kept well since purchase. 92
.
CODORNÍU NON PLUS ULTRA NV, Penedès, Spain, 11.5% D, #053660 $20.95 (Retasted September 24, 2009) CS
.
My notes: Last tasted on December 17, 2007 with a rating of Ww91 and the comment ‘A value for a brut of a bubbly.’ This isn’t listed at the LCBO at this time. A blend of Chardonnay(50%), Macabeo(20%), Perelada(20%) and Xarello(10%) having the distinctive nose and flavours of a Spanish bubbly. Brut, pale gold with a burst of foam and continuous stream of fine bubbles. The nose is fresh and half between yeasty and stone fruit in scent. Fine bubbles burst on first sip, dry but with a taint of sweet pear and tart apple then finishing dry with a firm cream and a spicy edge then cream returning. Should be great with fresh oysters or a lobster /crab /shrimp plate. Has cellared well perhaps adding more spice notes. 90
.
CODORNÍU PINOT NOIR ROSÉ BRUT CAVA NV, Penedès, Spain, 12.0% XD, #665372 $16.95 (Tasted September 5, 2009) CS
.
A Vintages release on July 18, 2009 described by New Orleans critic Brenda Maitland (Feb 9, 2009) as “Both well priced and well made, this elegant wine is produced from 100 percent Pinot Noir grapes with a minimum of nine months bottle aging. In the glass, a fine fizz tickles the nose with fragrances of red berries and cherries. It is crisp and vibrant on the palate, and complex raspberry and strawberry flavors mingle with refreshing citrus notes. It's a wonderful wine as an aperitif, with a meal or as a digestif. Serve it with salmon, poultry, fruit and soft cheeses.” My notes: The colour of crushed strawberry, streams of fine to moderately sized bubbles and a scent of watermelon, if you sniff hard, gives this mainly eye appeal in both the spectacular bottle or a glass. Bubbles burst on the palate, dry for sure, smooth with a delicate flavour blended from faint strawberry and watermelon. A polite sipper finishing extra dry, refreshing with some flavour remnants. A great summer time sipper. Have with crab cake appetizers, a King crab leg valentine feast or a lobster fest. It won’t improve through cellaring but could keep for a few years. Drinking well now. 88
.
TENUTA S. ANNA CUVÉE ROSÉ BRUT NV, Veneto, Italy, 11.5% D, #126300 $15.95 (Tasted September 11, 2009) CS
.
A Vintages release on August 15, 2009 described by their Panel (June 2009) as “Pale peachy pink in colour, this refreshing rosé fizz is a blend of 70% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and 30% Merlot. The nose offers aromas of candied strawberry, pink grapefruit, sweet redcurrants and pear. It's dry, light-bodied with an easygoing round texture. Bright flavours of strawberry, red berries and tangerine are balanced by a gentle effervescence and zesty acidity. It's terrific as a summer afternoon sipper or pair with seared salmon.” My notes: There is a strong peachy tone to this delicately coloured rosé and the aroma is a grassy yeast. Lots of bubbles of all sizes come on pouring with enough left for a few streams. Satin smooth with a fine spritzy, strawberry, watermelon and pear flavour blend, a good tang and just a touch of sweetness makes this a delightful sipper. The finish is more of the same gradually ebbing leading to another sip. Have with three corner sandwiches: tuna, ham and pickle, chicken salad, lobster bisque or crab cakes - a versatile bubbly. A value now that should keep for a few more years. 90