November 2009 Niagara Trip: 6 Tasted of 6

When we relocated to Burlington in 2000 it was following a couple of trips through the Okanagan, first on our way to a new home on Vancouver Island and them on our return to Ontario eight years later. We didn’t realize between the going and the coming that BC wines had patterned our palates - from a European old world style molded by years of wines purchased from the Opimian Society to a brighter fruit-biased style. We had started drinking Okanagan followed by New Zealand, Chilean, Australian and Argentinan wines. Niagara, at the time, was neglected as most wineries visited during our Ontario days had left us confused as to style of wines and terroirs.


On return, one of our first visits to Niagara Peninsula was to tour the Malivoire (View It!) winery in 2001. Located in Beamsville (Map It!) and on the slope of the Escarpment, Malivoire was one of the first gravity flow or Newtonian wineries in Niagara. We enjoyed tasting their early releases combining them with tasty hors d’oeuvres. My impression was of full-bodied oaked reds, oaked Chardonnays and full Pinot Gris with soft fruit and herbaceous spices. Our case of 1999 Old Vines Foch (Canadian oak) purchased in 2001 mellowed nicely becoming an excellent red when retasted just this year (92). The Moira Chardonnay 2000, initially full flavoured, in 2005 didn’t fare as well as cellaring turned butterscotch into burnt caramel and ‘herbaceous’ into straw. Much the same with the 2001 Chardonnay and the 2000 and 2002 Pinot Gris, purchased in 2001 and 2003 resp. when retasted in 2005 and 2006.

Prompting my trip last Sunday was the recent General listing of two Malivoire LCBO blends simply called ‘Red’ (90) and ‘White’ (92). On this visit each of the Malivoire’s wines tasted were much lighter with a silky mouth feel. The fruit was fresher, softer and had a depth warranting slow sipping or serving with milder foods. Time will tell how they cellar. I tasted four white and four reds, including two Ice Wines. The following were purchased for more casual sipping and for my BH to contribute her opinion.

Cheers, Ww

• Malivoire White 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 92-3 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #141531 $14.95
• Malivoire Gewurztraminer Ice Wine 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 91-1  -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $35.05 
• Malivoire Cabernet Franc Ice Wine 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 91-1 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #685602 $35.05
• Malivoire Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 90-2 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #573147 $19.95
• Malivoire ‘Guilty Men’ Red 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 86 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $19.95
• Malivoire ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, 79 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #996777 $24.95

(O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

MALIVOIRE ‘GUILTY MEN’ RED 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D, #Winery $19.95 (Tasted December 1, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “Spicy plum, black cherry and cedar on the nose. The mouth feel is round and smooth, awakening the palate to flavours of raspberry, black currant and dark chocolate. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 35%, Merlot 35%, Pinot Noir 15% and Gamay 11% and Cabernet Franc 4%. Hand harvested, each variety was fermented separately in stainless steel and oak. Each small lot was then aged in French and American oak for an average of 7 months.” My notes: Perfumed aromas (like a server wearing cologne): powerful at first pouring tapering to a blend of violets, cedar, raspberry and blackberry. A thin film and fast tears, transparent in the glass giving a cheerful ruby glow and a first sip that is silky smooth with soft tannins and tangy edge. The finish fades slowly taking most of the fruit leaving a slight oil and some spice. This could be popular in a mixed crowd: not likely staunch red drinkers tho’. I found the aroma crept through the flavours and detracted from a meal of meatloaf, green beans and baked potato - better paired with rosemary’d lamb. Was OK but a tad thin next day with a grilled steak.  A drink now.  86

MALIVOIRE ‘ESTATE BOTTLED’ PINOT NOIR 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5% D, #996777 $24.95 (Tasted December 2, 2009) CS

The Winery says “A traditional Pinot Noir, red cherry and forest floor aromas are followed by complex flavours of sweet cherry pie, citrus, dried tobacco, clove and juniper twig. Medium-bodied with soft tannins, this wine finishes long, creamy and fresh.” My notes: A see-through ruby, clean and clear in the bowl with delicate, earth tainted scents of blueberry and cherry. Thin on the first sip with fine tannins and a light acid underpinning faint flavours of beetroot, red cherry and blueberry. Medium-bodied finishing with a warm, earthy reminder of the fruit. Serve cold it’s a mild mannered sipper although having little of interest - a red to have with a salmon steak, breast of chicken seasoned with herbs de province. Nicely made. Perhaps cellaring a few years it will improve? Perhaps already on the decline?  79

MALIVOIRE CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D, #573147 $19.95 (Tasted December 1, 2009) CS

Described as “ Although more oak was used than in previous years, fruit dominates. Aromas and flavours abound, suggesting pear, baked apple crisp, maple, candied orange and nutmeg. Well balanced, this full-bodied wine explodes with flavours, making way for a long, crisp finish.” My notes: A thin film with fast forming tears makes this a medium-bodied chardonnay with a pleasing smoothness to the first sip. Serve chilled and allow to go off chill, ~14C for a delicate nose of stone fruit and baked apple. This has a light golden colour, very crisp in the bowl and flavours include baked apple, maple for sure, a roundness while any sweetness is nicely balanced with a soft acid that persists through a long finish. A distinct Escarpment chardonnay with a light French oak butterscotch supporting the fruit. Have with lightly flavoured fish dishes, crab, lobster or scallops as well as being a polite sipper. Should cellar for a few years.  90

MALIVOIRE CABERNET FRANC ICE WINE 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, 10.0% S, #685602 $35.05 (Tasted December 11, 2009) CS

Described as “These grapes were hand harvested by friends of Malivoire at -12°C in the late evening hours of December 22nd, 2008 and pressed well into the next morning. Pressed in vertical basket presses delivering juice at 37.5 ° brix. This juice was then fermented cool in stainless steel.” My notes: There’s an amber glow and firm film with slow tears to an aromatic blend of caramel and taffy apple. The sweetness arrives with the first sip coating the palate with flavours of extra sweet apple, plum and slight liquorice. Lasting into a long finish with fruit ’til the end this makes a perfect pre-dinner appetizer by itself then after dinner for dessert altho’ I’d say ’a little bit goes a long way’ with this one. I suggest cellaring for several years to soften the sugars a touch letting more of the grape to shine.  91

MALIVOIRE GEWURZTRAMINER ICE WINE 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, 11.0% S, #Winery $35.05 (Tasted December 14, 2009)

Described as “The great 2008 vintage provided an abundance of concentrated flavours and aromas to be extracted from the grapes once frozen. These grapes were hand harvested by friends of Malivoire at -12°C in the late evening hours of December 22nd, 2008 and pressed well into the next morning. Pressed in vertical basket presses delivering juice at 39 ° brix. This juice was then fermented cool in stainless steel.” My notes: A glistening old gold colour and aroma of sultanas and apricots, tingly on the nose. Flavours carry the aroma coating the palate with luscious, honeyed fruit, middling thick and refreshingly spiced. Serve chilled for easy sipping as an aperitif or as an after dinner/dessert relaxer. The finish is enduring and endearing. Sweet? Yes! But that’s to be expected of an icewine. 91

MALIVOIRE WHITE 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.0% D, #141531 $14.95 (Retasted December 1, 2009) CS

My notes: A blend of 80% Chardonnay, 15% Riesling and 5% Gewurztraminer and tasted this past October so I thought I’d check the rating at the time(Ww92). Serve chilled, ~10 - 12C. A delicate aroma of vanilla and orange blossom greeting the senses makes this a crowd pleaser. A light golden, crystal and crisp in the glass with firm film and legs that develop slowly followed by a first sip having a round mouth feel, a tinge of sweetness, a tang of tart, stone fruit and lime flavours. The long, warm taste and smooth finish is also appealing - pluses all around. Cellaring for a year should be OK - drinking well now. 92

MALIVOIRE ‘ANNE’S RECIPE’ ROSEMARY WINE SYRUP, Beamsville, Ontario, 0.5% MS, #Winery $9.00 (355mL)

Produced for the Malivoire Wine Co. from ‘Fine wine, sugar, cider vinegar, herbs and spices’.

Toronto Gourmet Food & Wine Expo 2009

Lots of walking, lots of talking and sampling made the trip exhausting. Left on the 12:13 Burlington GO train arriving at Union Station at 1:00, down stairs, across the tunnel, up stairs entering the VIA area and searching for the direction to the Skywalk and a twenty minute hike to the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South building.

There was the start of a crowd at the Ticket sellers. 20 tickets for $20. Paper always softens paying for samples of food, drinks and everything else being offered. It’s much easier to separate the tear strip on several tickets rather than separating me from my supply of loonies and toonies as my visit continued - November 22nd.

Most of the ’Tutored Tastings’ - Gord Stimmell, Billy Munnelly, John and Zoltan Zsabo, Christopher Waters and several others - were sold out. It's good to see local talent can fill the seats. I wasn’t here for classes though… just the wines.

My first impression was one of ’where’s the wine?’ as seemingly endless beer stalls line aisles near the entrance. Continuing to the end , turn right, more beer stalls now intermixed with aromatic foods, an aerator booth, olive oils, cheeses, Mott’s Clamato Caesar school and Palm 3G booths.

Continuing past the Vines booth and Fine Wines Tasting Lounge I found the centre core aisles filled with sampling islands - clusters of Agency serving counters - representing wines from Ontario, Chile, California, Australia, Argentina, France and the theme country, Portugal.

My tickets were being doled out two or three at a time now for tastings of labels some new to me. Wines were less than $20 a bottle and many less than $15. Some I recognized from Vintages but most from the General shelves. All servers were gracious and most were familiar with the wines and wineries. Some were sitting in for an agent on break - it was likely the lunch hour, time to have nourishment before the afternoon rush.

Having tasted DeLoach Cabernet CS, Arboleda Sauvignon Blanc CS, Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne CS, Château des Charmes Sparkling CS, Montes Alpha Syrah CS, Domaine Galean Paroles de Femmer Côtes du Rhône, Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc CS, J P Chenet Pinot Noir CS, Misterio Malbec CS, several other 3 ticket wines, a $60 Amarone and a $30 Pinot Noir I came away with no purchases and no recommendations. After a 5 ticket portion of tender, tasty beef from Canyon Creek I headed for the Exit.

It was an interesting trek. Next year’s Expo will be November 18 - 21.

Cheers, Ww

goLOCAL, Promo 2009: 4 Tasted of 4

The second Promo in a week and one exclusively featuring four distinct VQA products: a red, dry white, a bubbly, and a sweet aperitif/ dessert wine. Encouraging patrons to ’Give Local’ during the Holiday season the glossy claims “our wine experts have hand-picked…” and yet a note tells us “This advertising is paid for in whole or in part by participating suppliers”. Seems like a collaborative effort with winery expense dollars and LCBO profit. And of the four, there’s limited stock in local outlets and none of the Château des Charmes bubbly nor the Strewn product. I’ll search again nearer the end of this month. Also there’s likely to be more wineries represented on the goLOCAL shelves at most Outlets and I welcome the theme of supporting the local wine industry at any time of the year.  Cheers, Ww

• Château des Charmes Estate Bottled Sparkling Wine NV VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 92-2 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #145409 $22.95 
• Malivoire Red 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2 -- G, 2008, Beamsville, Ontario, #141523 $14.95 
• Strewn Select Harvest Vidal 2007 VQA Ontario, 90-2 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #107219 $15.95 (375mL)  
• No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Riesling 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85 -- G, Jordan, Ontario, #144865 $14.95 

(G - General listing, V - Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS :

MALIVOIRE (Map It!) RED 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D, #141523 $14.95 (Tasted October 4, 2009) CS

A General listing described by the winery as “An inviting nose of raspberry, cherry, vanilla and cedar emerge from this blend of 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Gamay. The palate greets you with flavours of plum, black currant, dark chocolate and a long finish.” My notes: A deep ruby regal in appearance, a nose of subtle black cherry and spice, and a firm film with few slow legs all make this attractive in the glass. The first sip also has subtlety in its flavours along with a smooth texture and bright edge, medium-bodied. The finish starts mellow fading slowly as red cherry and plum mix with fine tannins, cedar and dryness that leaves the mouth refreshed. Have with grilled T-bone or rack of lamb, beef tenderloin or a seared pork chop - a flexible, polite red. Young yet and could cellar for several years increasing in complexity. Gets points for potential. 90

No. 99 WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATES (Map It!)  RIESLING 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 11.3% D, #144865 $14.95 (Tasted September 23, 2009) CS

A General listing described as “… bright, crisp white made from Ontario’s signature Riesling grape… “. My notes: Purchased from the Winery this lower tiered Riesling is a soft clear blond colour and has a delicate honey, grapefruit and nettles scent on pouring that dissipates quickly then returns as the chill mellows (or as the glass empties). A soft roundness, some grassiness and a tinge of orange makes this white a reasonable sip. The finish is smooth with sufficient body, a lemon tang and a dry grassy edge to pair with grilled arctic char slightly lemon’d and greens of baby arugula and water cress. A drink now. 85

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES (Map It!) ESTATE BOTTLED SPARKLNG WINE NV VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.0% D #145409, $22.95 (Tasted December 6, 2009) CS

A General listing described on the back label as “crisp and citrusy with notes of lime, lemon and toasted bread. … creamy texture…” My notes: Following the Méthode Traditionnelle means the blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir grapes is bottle fermented and bottle aged ‘sur lie’ for at least two to three years. (Jane Nickles explains more in a Sidebar video). Finally a few bottles showed in our area and was well worth the wait. A flood of bubbles quickly settles to a steady stream and an intense spritz. Scents of lemon, lime and a delicate toast are enticing until the first sip feels the full spritz and flavours that follow the nose adding a touch of yeast and cream. The long finish is tangy thoroughly cleansing the palate making this a pleasing accompaniment to a fresh oyster plate, a celebratory toast or a pick-me-up after a long day’s shopping - any excuse to have for breakfast, lunch and a dinner. 92

STREWN (Map It!) SELECT LATE HARVEST VIDAL VQA Ontario, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.8% MS, #107219(375mL) $15.95 (Tasted Decmber 8, 2009) CS

A General listing described in the goLOCAL Promo as “…. subtle scents of honey and apricot… open the evening as an aperitif, a holiday dessert. Great with savoury cheeses and nuts.” My notes: A crystal golden colour in the glass with an inviting pear, raisin and honey aroma. A solid film with lots of slow tears followed by strong flavours of honeyed pear forming the base of a spicy bite that wakens the taste buds. A few sips later and the spice mellows with sweet fruit both lingering through a long finish. Was excellent with a mixed nut tray as a pre-dinner sipper or a substitute for dessert following soy and ginger grilled salmon. Drink now or cellar for a few years for more lusciousness. 90

Holiday, Promo 2009: 5 Tasted of 5

A very entertaining Promo arrived with my Saturday G & M. There’s enough inside to satisfy everyone: ideas for placecard holders, napkin ring cookies; recipes for starters, salad rolls, biscotti, roast potatoes and… wait for it…DRINKS! All for the Holiday season with wines and spirits brought to Ontarians by LCBO’s VP of Merchandising and resident chief expert on wines, beers and spirits, Shari Mogk-Edwards (SM) and VP of Vintages, Tom Wilson (TW).

Of the thirteen grape based products I’ve dropped four that were outside my Holiday budget of $20. I also dropped wines rated by local critics at 85 or below as well as some past vintages tasted and given a similar rating. Five remain for tasting.

Each Outlet may have additional products offered as part of this Promo. Very likely they’ll be featured along with gift wrapped or boxed multiples on their many impromptu display ‘islands’. It’s that time of the year. Time to offer bargains and to clear old inventory. I wish you luck separating values from plonk. … Ho, Ho, Ho! Cheers, Ww

Wines selected: 

• Malivoire Red 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2 -- G, Niagara, Ontario, #141523 $14.95
• Masi Campofiorin ‘Rosso del Veronese’ 2006, 88-1 -- G, Veneto, Italy, #155051 $17.45 (SM)
• Bouchard Pere & Fils Grand Vin de Bourgogne Petit Chablis 2007, 88-1 -- G, Burgundy, France, #051466 $19.90 (SM)
• Flor de Crasto 2007, 85 -- G, Douro, Portugal, #089870 $10.95
• J. Lohr Estates ‘Arroyo Seco’ Chardonnay 2007, 83 -- G, San Jose, California, #258699 $19.05* (SM)  

Wines dropped:

•  No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Cabernet Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, G, Niagara, Ontario, #075689 $15.95 (SM) 
• Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut NV, G, Penedes, Spain, #088591 $13.95  
• Cave Spring Riesling Dry 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, G, Niagara, Ontario, #233635 $14.25 (SM) 
• Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Nipozzano Riserva 2006, G, Chianti, Italy, #107276 $19.75 (SM) 

Outside the Holiday budget: 

• Muga Reserva Rioja 2005, V, Rioja, Spain, #177345 $24.95 (TW) 
• Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, V, California, USA, #352583 $39.95 (TW) 
• Chandon Brut Classic NV, G, California, USA, #094946 $24.90 (SM) 
• Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Rose NV, G, Champagne, France, #019661 $77.10 (SM) 

(G - General listing, V - Vintages, * - sale priced, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

BOUCHARD PERE & FILS GRAND VIN DE BOURGOGNE PETIT CHABLIS 2007, Burgundy, France, 12.0% D, #051466 $19.90 (Tasted November 15, 2009) CS


A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Pale straw colour; green apple, pear, citrus and minerals with touch of almond on the nose; dry, crisp and clean with a hint of clove and a long citrus finish. Serve with hors d'oeuvres; crab stuffed sole; oysters on a half shell; simply prepared shellfish dishes.” My notes: The 2007 vintage was on the shelves - not the 2008 as shown in the Promo. Aerate twenty minutes for a fresher, delicate aroma of stone fruit and citrus. A crisp mix of mild lemon and apple, mineral tinged finishing with light flavours lingering then leaving a slight lemon and chalk. A very clean chardonnay that should cellar for several years but not improve. Would be well accepted with a cold buffet or to have with fresh oysters, crab cakes or mild fish entrees. 88

MASI CAMPOFIORIN ‘ROSSO DEL VERONESE’ 2006, Veneto, Italy, 13.0% D, #155051 $17.45 (Tasted November 21, 2009) CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Ruby red colour; dry with a complex nose of plums, prunes, leather, cinnamon spice and violets; dry, medium-to full-bodied with generous fruit on the palate; a nice backbone of spice and tannins. Serve with red meat, sharp cheeses, osso bucco, wild mushroom risotto, veal parmigiana.” My notes: A deep black cherry colour and aromas of cherries, raisins and leather. The silky texture shifts into a soft tannin, a polite tang and flavours of fresh cherries possibly with a slight cedar plank edge. On the light side of medium-bodied makes this a thin sipper but with enough to be a match for tomato pizzas or pastas, veal parmigiana for sure as well as a triple cheese and ground meat lasagna. Finishes long, dry with some bramble. Cellaring for several years could possibly add more smoothness but drinking well now.  88

J. LOHR ESTATES ‘ARROYO SECO’ CHARDONNAY 2007, San Jose, California, 13.5% D, #258699 $19.05* (Tasted November 18, 2009) CS


A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Deep yellow colour; ripe apple, pear, melon & vanilla aromas; dry, medium to full-bodied; creamy texture & peachy, oaky notes on the palate; well-balanced with a long finish. Serve with grilled or roasted poultry dishes, pork with apple sauce or caramelized onions.” My notes:This has a golden hue and faint aromas of pear, apple and a vanilla note, not that distinct. Nicely rounded with a touch of butterscotch on grassy melon and citrus flavours which continue into a long mild lemon finish. OK for C sippers and should carry itself well with seafood dishes: halibut and chips, panfried red snapper, telapia or salmon steak. A drink now and even cellaring for a few years should do well.  83

FLOR DE CRASTO 2007, Douro, Portugal, 12.5% XD, #089870 $10.95 (Tasted November 18, 2009) CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “A rich and medium bodied wine that shows flavours of rich berry fruits with hints of spice and a soft round finish. Serve with beef or hard cheeses.” My notes:  A light plum nose with a sharp edge, a deep plum shade in the bowl with a firm film and slow tears. The tang with the first sip startles the buds as does the warm buildup of tang in the long finish covering much of the full fruit flavours. Cherry, black berry, peppers, leather, tars combine for a full-bodied bold sipper. Open this up to an hour before a spicy meal of chili con carne, lamb brisket, loaded burgers or Barberian rubbed ribs. Cellaring for several years may tame some roughness although there should be lots left if that’s your taste. 85

MALIVOIRE RED 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D, #141523 $14.95 (Tasted October 4, 2009) CS

A General listing described by the winery as “An inviting nose of raspberry, cherry, vanilla and cedar emerge from this blend of 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Gamay. The palate greets you with flavours of plum, black currant, dark chocolate and a long finish.” My notes: A deep ruby regal in appearance, a nose of subtle black cherry and spice, and a firm film with few slow legs all make this attractive in the glass. The first sip also has subtlety in its flavours along with a smooth texture and bright edge, medium-bodied. The finish starts mellow fading slowly as red cherry and plum mix with fine tannins, cedar and dryness that leaves the mouth refreshed. Have with grilled T-bone or rack of lamb, beef tenderloin or a seared pork chop - a flexible, polite red. Young yet and could cellar for several years increasing in complexity. Gets points for potential.  90