May 2010 Chardonnays: 10 Tasted of 10

The following are chardonnays set aside for tasting in May. Cheers, Ww

• Rosewood Estates ‘Renaceau Vineyard’ Chardonnay Reserve 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench,  92-2  --  O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $25.15
• Fog Head Reserve Chardonnay Monterey 2008, 91-2  -- V, Manteca, California, #158568 $19.95
• Southbrook Vineyards ‘Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,  90-1  --  V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario,  #172338  $21.95
• Craggy Range Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2007, 90  --  V, Hawkes Bay, NZ, #132043 $34.95*
• Nyarai Cellars Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $16.20
• Irony ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay 2008,  90-1  --  V, Manteca, California,  #027409 $19.95
• Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82  --  V, Lincoln, Ontario, #056929  $40.00
• Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2008, 80  --  V, West Coast, S. Africa, #328559 $14.95
• Featherstone Estate Winery 'Canadian Oak' Chardonnay 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 79  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $22.15  
• Vineland Estates Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  77  --  G, Vineland, Ontario, #669374 $12.85

TASTINGS:

FOG HEAD RESERVE CHARDONNAY MONTEREY 2008, Manteca, California, (Map It!) 14.5% XD, #158568 $19.95 (Retasted May 13, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on January 23, 2010 described (Aug. 2009) as “From the brilliant straw colour through all the flavours and aromas, this is a top-notch Monterey Chardonnay. Loads of tropical fruit, green apple, pear, smoke/toast aromas lead to a dry, flavourful, impactful palate. A terrific wine for a variety of fish, poultry, vegetarian or pork dishes.  My notes: From Delicato Vineyards. A clean and crisp gold in the glass with a fragrance of caramel coated Granny smith, Bosc pear - light on the pear. Forms a firm film evenly receding. Full-bodied and tangy bright on the first sip, pineapple, lemon with some butter in the texture makes this a delightful sipper. The acid seam maintained its presence during a meal of vegetarian pizzas; one of asparagus and goat cheese and one of anchovies and mozzarella. Bright fruit dominates a long warm finish. An interesting sipper as well as dinner white - should keep well for several years. 91


IRONY ‘NAPA VALLEY’ CHARDONNAY 2008, Manteca, California, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #027409  $19.95  (Tasted May 10, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on April 3, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “… This crowd-pleasing Chardonnay is loaded with apple, peach and pear fruit, along with a measured amount of toasty oak character. It has a smooth, creamy texture and a medium-long finish. Match it to grilled salmon steaks or mildly spiced vindaloo chicken.  My notes: Another Delicato Vineyards chardonnay to try.  The Irony shows a firm film with slow legs, a colour not quite golden and subdued aromas - I'll wait a few minutes - yes, it's subdued, certainly not objectionable. There's a metal edge to well balanced fruit and acid giving this initially a high sip-appeal. The finish has a sweet side to a light gooseberry, lemon and mango confirming the sip-appeal. Medium-bodied and polite it would serve as a social mixer or the jump start to a  seafood plate up to a chicken and split pea risotto.  90   
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SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS ‘TRIOMPHE’ CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NOTL, Ontario, (View It!) 12.0% D, #172338 $21.95 (Tasted May 1, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on April 3, 2010 described by the Vintages panel (February 2010) as “Attractive and youthful medium-yellow-gold colour with a green tinge. Lots of toast, apple crumble, vanilla extract and hazelnut aromas. This dry wine is fairly oaky, but the intensity of the fruit is more than up to the challenge of bringing this wine in line. Full bodied with a medium-long, nicely balanced finish. Cellar it 2-4 years, or match it tonight with pork roast with green beans or smoked oily fish (salmon, tuna, mackerel).” My notes:An oaked chardonnay in colour and aromas: golden in the glass and a delicate scent of caramelized apple with melted butter. A swirl leaves a firm film slowly tearing and a first sip wakens the buds with a prod, nicely tangy, and unsweetened apple crumble flavours. All together, there’s interest as a sipper… luscious with depth and texture. The finish continues with thin velvet smoothness and tart apple. Have chilled, offchill or pair with chicken pastas or grilled seafood. Cellar for several years, rather than drink now, to possibly bring out more caramel.  90

LE CLOS JORDANNE ‘CLAYSTONE TERRACE’ CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Lincoln, Ontario, (View It!) 14.0% XD, #056929 $40.00 (Tasted May 5, 2010)  CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 described by the Vintages panel (January 2010) as “… The aromas of toast, tropical fruit, floral, peach, and nettles all play off each other to perfection. It's dry, full bodied, with terrific balance and structure. A real charmer with a long finish. Consider cellaring this ageworthy beauty 3-5+ years, or, if you wish to enjoy it now, decant it… and match it to roast pork.” My notes: ‘‘Twenty Mile Bench’ is displayed prominently on the label along with a Vineyard however grapes may have been sourced anywhere in the Niagara Peninsula as the VQA (almost illegible) allows. A greenish hue to a straw colour and aromas needing a few minutes to show, perhaps a faint tea. A light film with slow tears forms on a swirl. The first sip has a chalk-dry tang and unusual flavours of mild white grapefruit and muted tea. A medium-bodied, cleansing sipper with a long, extra dry finish carrying grapefruit and nettles to a clay end. I didn’t get butter nor caramel. Scallops or grilled whitefish should be a match for this extra dry meal white.  82
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VINELAND ESTATES CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 12.0% D, #669374  $12.85  (Tasted May 1, 2010) CS
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A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Bright yellow colour; aromas and flavours of citrus, apple/pear and fresh fig; dry, medium to full bodied, with crisp balanced acidity and a long finish. Serve with grilled salmon or light white meats, especially when served with a cream sauce.”  My notes: Less than delicate, an almost imperceptible nose, chilled or offchill, but not objectionable. Flavours are mainly of faint citrus and melon, nicely balanced with moderate fullness and a silky texture. The finish is long although overall having little of interest - improved off chill imho. A simple sipper and may be paired with grilled scallops or whitefish. Not for cellaring.  77


CATHEDRAL CELLAR CHARDONNAY 2008, Western Cape, S Africa, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #328559  $14.95  (Tasted May 25, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on April 17, 2010 rated 4 out of 5 and described by John Platter South African Wines (2010) as “The top-tier KWV range honours… Full, rich & ripe 2008, perhaps shade less elegant than 2007 but still very fine. Dense apricot, peach complement fat texture and toasty oak…”. My notes: A golden colour, a firm film with slow legs and, after a few minutes, aromas of lemon, melon and faint grass open up for sniffing. Full-bodied with a roughness that is more prominent through a long finish. From sip to finish flavours are apricot and lemon ending with grassiness and heat. As elegant as a ‘barmaid‘. Pair with chicken, creamy scallop or shrimp pastas, creamy herb risotto or salmon pot pies. A drink now.  80   
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CRAGGY RANGE (View It!) SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2007, Hawkes Bay, NZ, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #132043  $34.95*  (Tasted May 3, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on November 21, 2009 rated 5 out of 5 and described by Bob Campbell, MW, Gourmet Traveller Wine (June/July 2008) as “New Zealand wine fanatics covet the wines from the tiny area known as Gimblett Gravels. This is a full-throttle Chardonnay … Full-flavoured and fleshy with an appealing mix of oak, grapefruit, hazelnut and bran biscuit flavours. The high alcohol is certainly not excessive. Rich and moderately complex wine”.  My notes: The LCBO showed the original price as $39.95. Has a straw colour and scent of papaya and nettles, full-bodied with flavours of unripe grapefruit, tangy, extra dry, steel edged going into a long finish of grapefruit seed. A swirl leaves an evenly receding scalloped edge slowly breaking up and flowing as tears. Quite acerbic as a sipper but with an interesting crisp fullness - is a meal white. Pair with fresh oysters, grilled bacon wrapped scallops or a fish fry. Drink now or cellar a year - may have had some ripe fruit in 2008.  90

NYARAI CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 13.0% D, #Winery  $16.20  (Tasted May 23, 2010)

The website says "The only white wine from Nyarai Cellars produced from this great vintage. Maturated in French oak barrels for 12 months, fruit exclusively selected from two of the finest sites in Niagara-On-The-Lake. Primary fermentation conducted in stainless steel tank to capture defined fruit character and retain acidity. With an inviting nose of sweet oak and ripe yellow tropical fruit notes, this wine is well versus with green apple peel, vanilla and a hint of toffee accompanied with crisp acidity. A considerate candidate for pleasurable enjoyment with smoked Salmon, grilled Chicken or creamy pasta dishes." My notes: Crystal clear and a pale golden in the glass, given a few minutes to breathe and lose the chill there’s a faint scent of caramel and apple. A light film with fast tears gives an impression of delicate elegance. The flavours follow the nose adding a smooth texture and tart seam for a medium-bodied, lightly oaked chardonnay. Enjoyable as a sipper, better paired with seafood or chicken breast yes, smoked salmon may be a stretch. Short term cellaring may bring out some butterscotch.  90


ROSEWOOD ESTATES ’RENACEAU VINEYARD’ CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, (Map It!) 14.0% D, #Winery $25.20 (Tasted May 19, 2010)

Described by the Winery as “Our 3 barrels were aged sur lie in premium French oak barrels for 10 months. The malolactic fermentation was stopped half-way which allows the wine to maintain the clean citrus characteristics of the Renaceau vineyard. Developing notes of caramel, butterscotch and vanilla framed by just enough acidity makes this wine a perfect pairing to veal, pork tenderloin and pasta dishes with cream sauce. Drink now or cellar for 5 years.” My notes: I tasted this chardonnay during a trip to Niagara in June 2009 then more leisurely at home.  I found the texture and flavours elegantly suited for sipping or dining. Six months in the cellar has softened the ’just detectable’ French oak in the nose leaving a soft melon and citrus. Beautifully balanced acid carries delicate flavours of butterscotch, citrus and vanilla maintaining the ‘Renaceau’ character. The oak treatment comes forward during a long, fully rounded finish. An excellent sipper that would pair nicely with scallops, grilled with bacon or with a herbed risotto, not too seasoned. Will likely mature nicely up to four years.  92
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FEATHERSTONE ESTATE (View It!) WINERY 'CANADIAN OAK' CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 12.5% D, #Winery $22.15 (Tasted May 27, 2010)

The website says "This is our ‘feral’ Chardonnay - fermented by wild, local indigenous yeast instead of being inoculated with a commercial strain of yeast. The grapes were hand-picked and sorted and then fermentation took place in oak barrels that are made from oak trees that grew along the Grand River in Brantford, Ontario. The result is a rich and buttery wine that is truly ‘local’ in every sense of the word and represents the best of the region and the vintage."  My notes:This is a pale gold in the glass with a nose that given time to develop doesn’t. A swirl shows a thin film with fast legs confirming a lightish medium-body first sip - tangy, delicate nectarine, almond, and apple dumpling mixture unique for a chardonnay. The finish remains delicate with  a shallow roundness and ending of stone fruit - a tartness with each swallow the only point of interest. Not a solitary sipper. Have with saltines or wheat crackers or pair with mild fish dishes or a clear chicken broth - was passable with grilled steelhead salmon. A drink now.  79

May 2010 Wines: 14 Tasted of 14

When tasted, wines will be sequenced by rating and value (r-v), reds then whites, rosés then sparklers followed by Icewines and Late Harvests. Cheers, Ww 

THE LINEUP:

• Sartori Vigneti di Valdimezzo Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2007, 93-3  --  V, Negrar, Italy, #160374 $16.95
• Errazuriz Max Reserva Shiraz 2006, 92-2  --  G, Chile, #614750 $17.75 
• St. Hallett ‘Faith’ Shiraz 2007, 90-2  --  V, New South Wales, Australia, #980631 $19.95
• Gemtree Bloodstone Shiraz/Viognier 2008,  89-1  --  V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #022111 $18.95
• Z-52 Lodi Zinfandel 2006,  88-1  --  V, Morgan Hill, California, #161588  $17.95
• Chakana Malbec 2007, 87-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #003509 $13.95 
•  Stoney Ridge ‘Warren Classic’ Pinot Noir 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87-1  --  G, Vineland, Ontario, #156125 $12.00*
• De Bortoli ‘dB Selection’ Petite Syrah 2007, 85  --  V, Barossa, Australia, #694802 $14.95 
• Terra d'Aligi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007, 83  --  G,  Abruzzo, Italy, #028530 $11.85  
• Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Shiraz 2006, 82  --  V, South Australia, #925453 $18.45*

• Gérard Bertrand Réserve Spéciale Viognier 2008,  88-1  --  V, Languedoc, France, #147975  $16.95
• Highfield Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2008, 82 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #012674  $19.95

• Santa Julia Extra Brut ‘Sustainable by Nature’ NV, 85  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, #142042 $14.95

• NCT Winery Late Harvest Vidal 2002 VQA Ontario, 84  --  O, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada, #Winery $21.95 (375mL)  

(V - Vintages, g - General listing, O - Other,  r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS: 
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TERRA D'ALIGI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2007, Abruzzo, Italy, (Map it!) 13.0% D, #028530 $11.85 (Tasted May 21, 2010) CS

My notes: The 2005 vintage was tasted in June 2008 with an 84 rating. A quaffer then and now with the 2007 vintage. This has a black cherry colour in the glass and leaves long fast legs when swirled. The first sip is light-bodied, bright with acid and has a light flavour of red cherries with a long and dry, earthy finish. A reasonable house wine, drinkable, even somewhat enjoyable - one to wash down tomato pastas, meatballs or cheesy lasagnas. A drink now.  83
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ERRAZURIZ MAX RESERVA SHIRAZ 2006, Aconcagua, Chile, (Map it!) 14.5% D, #614750 $17.75 (Tasted May 18, 2010) CS
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My notes: Last tasted in November 2008 with a Ww95 rating and suggesting it would make an excellent cellar staple. For nose it’s an appealing smoky raspberry. There’s a tang in the first sip enticing several follow-on sips. Smooth, minty, fruity with black currant and raspberry, a tad savoury with a long finish of all of the above makes this a social sipper for every occasion. It’s keeping well and should for several more years perhaps softening some tang in exchange for a mellower, deeper texture. Maintains a presence paired with any grilled beef meal - not a shirker by any means.  92  
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NCT WINERY LATE HARVEST VIDAL 2002 VQA Ontario, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada, (Map It!) 10.0% ~SC8, #Winery $21.95 375mL  (Tasted May 24, 2010)
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My notes: Cellared in June 2006 and last tasted in August 2007. There’s an aroma of sultanas and light honey and a colour a rich golden. Silky smooth, sweet with a touch of tart to balance an apricot and pear blend. The finish carries the flavours along a delicate acid seam. Not as intense as previous tasting maintaining only a portion of the zip in 2007. Sip by itself, have with a cheese tray or chill and mix with shaved ice as a cooler.  84


GÉRARD BERTRAND RÉSERVE SPÉCIALE VIOGNIER 2008, Languedoc, France, (Map It!) 13.0% D, #147975  $16.95  (Tasted May 16, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on December 5, 2009 described by the Vintage panel (July 2009) as “This ripe and round Viognier is truly a gem worth discovering. Gorgeous aromas of peach pie and apricot nectar, with an exotic hint of cinnamon stick. In the mouth, the wine is rich, flavourful and full bodied, with a voluptuous, almost creamy texture; ripe apricot takes centre stage, with cinnamon spice emerging on the tasty, dry, lip-smacking finish. This will make a fine partner for roast chicken with peach salsa.”  My notes:Starting with a pale gold in the glass, a firm film from a swirl leading to slow tears followed by slight aromas of crushed citrus seeds. The first sip is full, tart without a sting, grassy, flavours of unripe white grapefruit tinged with peach stone. Not an aromatic new world Viognier but an old world meal white. Have with grilled halibut, browned chicken breast with a fruit sauce, a creamy mushroom soup with bacon pieces. Excellent texture and body throughout - both flavour and finish need time to build to a warm delicate apricot. Cellaring for several years should be OK.  88

KILIKANOON KILLERMAN'S RUN SHIRAZ 2006, South Australia, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #925453 $18.45*   (Tasted May 9, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on October 10, 2009 described anonymously (undated) as “Look no further for your favourite Aussie red! Since 2001, this wine has been awarded scores of 90 and up in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. By sourcing grapes from prime South Australian vineyards and ageing the wine for up to two years in small French and American oak barrels, Kilikanoon crafts a fruit-driven Shiraz that is densely flavoured with smoky black fruit, spices and toasted oak. Serve this rich red with roasted game bird, spicy beef dishes or grilled goose.”  My notes: The 2002 vintage was first tasted after its Vintages release in April 2006 then two years later in 2008 with a rating of 84/100. ‘A bold, warm sipper’ the 2006 continues to be that. A deep ruby with a violet glow and smoky peppery aromas on blackberry, not too pronounced. The first sip is smooth with a sharp bite setting in quickly. The finish is a warm berry cordial with the bite resting squarely on the palate. Too boisterous to be sociable and too hot to be quaffed, pair with spicy pastas, rich gravies over grilled/roasted beef or with a lamb shank crockpot. Cellaring will not likely soften the acids - a drink now.  82
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Z-52 LODI ZINFANDEL 2006, Morgan Hill, California, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #161588  $17.95 (Tasted May 8, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 described by ‘The Wine Buzz’ (Jan/Feb 2009) as “Light garnet color with a whiff of smoke and vanilla on the nose; light in body but quite flavorful, with pleasant notes of cracked black pepper and licorice.”  My notes: An ‘Anders-Lane Artisan Wine’ and a bold expression of Zinfandel. The nose has a strong stewed prune accent with lots of smoke along with soft vanilla. Ruby with a distinct terracotta shade, medium-bodied, a smooth light berry flavour, fine tannins and a penetrating warmth both at the back and through the long finish building with each sip. An attention getter for its heat - pair with grilled beef or spicy pasta dishes. A drink now.  88
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SANTA JULIA EXTRA BRUT ‘SUSTAINABLE BY NATURE’ NV, Mendoza, Argentina, 12.5% XD, #142042  $14.95  (Tasted May 5, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “… a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 10% Viognier. While the Viognier brings a lovely aromatic lift to the blend as well as a richness and honeyed fruit character, the wine finishes lip-smackingly crisp. A fine sipper, or pair it with veggie tempura or roast honey-mustard chicken.”  My notes: A Familia Zuccardi product that has a light straw colour and lots of large to intermediate size bubbles then a straggly set of large as the effervescence settles. A light fragrance of grassy yeast with a touch of floral and a first taste of delicate honey flavoured pear-apple, just enough to be interesting. The texture is smooth and sufficient if not medium-bodied. An interesting sipper and the finish continues with the flavours for a good while. Have with fresh oysters or by itself or mixed with orange or mango juices for a morning delight. A toast bubbly for a ’church crowd’. Brut is the level of this bubbly.  85
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STONEY RIDGE ‘WARREN CLASSIC’ PINOT NOIR 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  Vineland, Ontario, (Map It!) 13.4%  D, #156125  $12.00*  (Tasted May 4, 2010) CS
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A General listing reduced from $14.95 and not described. My notes:  Mr. Warren, a Niagara icon, attended the Canadian Club dinner on April 15th so reminded me that I haven’t tried a ‘Stoney Ridge’ since visiting the winery two years ago when he was the feature speaker.  This is a 25th Anniversary release and a Silver Medal winner at the ACWC. A soft floral and plum nose appealing, delicate and the colour is a clear ruby with a swirl leaving a quickly receding film. Light-bodied and drying on the first sip with red cherry flavours, a bramble edge and a balanced acid lining. Light enough to be quaffed while accumulating an interesting chalk dry, red cherry layer. There’s also an appealing smoothness as a sipper. Not the usual strawberry scented new world nor a straight ’burgundian’ - a Niagara unique and a drink now. 87
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ST. HALLETT ‘FAITH’ BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2007, Barossa, Australia, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #980631  $19.95  (Tasted May 2, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 rated 89/100 and described by Australian critic James Halliday (Feb 2009) as “Bright crimson; some spicy savoury elements among the main driver of red and black fruits; good tannins. Drink [until] 2015.”  My notes: A violet glow to a dense ruby and aromas of earthy black cherry with white pepper apparent. The film is firm and recedes gradually showing slow tears. The first sip greets intense berry, fine tannins and penetrating acid, balanced, making this a full-bodied, tangy sipper. A warm finish slowly gives up its fruit for a savoury ending. An interesting sipper, young with some roughness - better to pair with a pepper steak or Barbarian rubbed rib-eye or best to cellar - limit to three years to avoid predominant acid is my guess. 90    

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DE BORTOLI ‘dB SELECTION’ PETITE SIRAH 2007, New South Wales, Australia, (Map It!) 14.0% D, # 694802  $14.95  (Tasted May 2, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on April 3, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “Riverina is a region that consistently produces easy-drinking wines that offer great value. This Petite Sirah is certainly no exception. It's round, ripe and juicy with spice, sweet oak and mocha tones coming through. An ideal match for marinated red meats or moderately spiced bean dishes”.  My notes:The violet glow accents the ruby. A swirl shows a moderate film with tears falling slowly. Floral, spice and red cherry scent a delicate nose and the first sip has a medium-bodied red cherry flavour with some mint. Drying tannins start and end the finish along with fruit allowing a bramble to show. An enjoyable quaffer for a social occasion - better with rack of lamb or a marinated beef stir-fry. Cellar a short while but primarily a drink now.  85
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HIGHFIELD ESTATE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Marlborough, NZ, (Map It!) 12.5% D, #012674 $19.95   (Tasted May 1, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on March 20, 2010 rated 89/100 and described by Neal Martin (Sept. 2009) as “The 2008 Sauvignon Blanc has a lovely pear drop scented nose with orange-blossom and nectarine. The palate is medium-bodied, racy acidity complemented by pear drop and green lemon and an elegant finish. A well-crafted Sauvignon Blanc.”  My notes: Having stayed several days at Highfield I was curious to taste how their Sauvignon Blanc had evolved. This has a characteristic light blond colour with a scent of crushed gooseberries complete with grassy edge.  Light- to medium-bodied and a combination of acerbic sharpness and suspected sugar for a first sip that comes away as luscious citrus. The finish carries the acids with green gooseberry flavours and ends chalk dry. A sipper for those accustomed to biting into a lemon slice - not me. Went nicely with a turkey breast Sub and would with most seafoods. Not for cellaring.  82

SARTORI VIGNETI DI VALDIMEZZO RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2007, Negrar, Italy, (Map It!) 13.5% D, #160374  $16.95  (Tasted May 11, 2010) CS

Release by Vintages on April 17, 2010 and described by the Vintages panel (Sept 2009) as “A blend of 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella. Deep ruby. Intriguingly complex aromas of black plums, figs, cloves, tar, leather, coffee and a touch of cocoa. Dry, with a pleasing roundness to the texture. Deliciously pure, spicy fruit is supported by ripe, balanced tannins. Good length, and the interplay of flavours show impressive persistence…”  My notes:A true ruby colour with earthy plum and cherry scents gives this allure in the glass. A firm film with slow legs and a first sip a balance between rich fruit and process with a good dollop of fine tannins and acid. This is a medium-bodied sipper to relish between main courses or to complement chorizo sausage pieces in a rich red pasta as a sweet edged finish persists - an excellent expression of the ripasso method. Cellar up to five years. 93

GEMTREE BLOODSTONE (View It!) SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER 2008, McLaren Vale, Australia, (Map It!) 14.5% D, #022111  $18.95  (Tasted May 12, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on April 17, 2010 rated 88/100 and described by Jay Miller (Dec 2009) as “… purple-colored 2008 Bloodstone Shiraz-Viognier (5%) aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Floral notes, plum, and boysenberry aromas are followed by a sweetly-fruited, savory, well-balanced wine with good length and plenty of immediate appeal.” My notes:  Purple coloured with a light floral scent in the centre and spicy edges. The first sip is smooth, bright, a blend of blackberry, limon, muted pepper followed by sweet liquorice going into a long berry finish. Has considerable warmth as a medium-bodied full flavoured shiraz with an interesting Viognier influence. Pair with grilled meats or tomato pastas. Cellaring for a few years may bring out a velvet texture or roundness.  89

CHAKANA MALBEC 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D, #003509 $13.95 (Tasted May 28, 2010)  CS

My notes: First tasted in July 2008 after a Vintages release and rated 91 then again in June 2009 with 90. The nose has settled losing much of the chocolate and black cherry aromas. Now I’d say the nose is reluctant to express any fruit - some cherry left - and little chocolate if any. A swirl shows a firm film with lots of slow legs and the first sip is smooth, brightly edged and softer berry flavours, fine tannins backing a dry texture. The finish is very dry carrying the subtle berry along an acid seam and slight bramble. Interesting enough as a sipper but better paired with grilled beef or rack of lamb. Still enjoyable but not likely to improve with cellaring.  87

Seriously Cool Chardonnays, May 17th

Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook Vineyards spearheaded a tasting of Ontario's cool climate Chardonnays as a lead-up to a May 17th tasting in London, UK. As well as publicising Ontario wines for the EU market Bill saw this as an opportunity to stimulate the sense of a 'collegial group' among Ontario wineries. See the latest on the London reaction on Bill's blog.

Well it's over.... or is it just beginning? I expect the Ontario wine industry will have established new frontiers so will have accomplished the objectives originally set out in March. The 'collegial group' will have a short life as owners slip back into the the reality of their individual businesses along with the competitive zeal needed for success in a fractionalized industry. European oenophiles will carefully wordsmith around the mediocre and reward the best with mentions of their tastings - not quite the Californian rout of earlier times but nevertheless progress. I'll wait to see if relationships change or if big business steps into the vacuum marketing their plonk abroad eroding much of the opportunity earned by seriously dedicated Ontario winemakers.

• Barry Martin at Hypenotic interviews Bill Redelmeier on the wines making it to London.

• Selection of Ontario submissions started in March this year. Bill Redelmeier gives the rundown on the public and media tastings in Toronto leading to the finals.

May 6, 2010 Taste & Tweet: Chardonnay day

I took the bait… ‘Taste and Tweet’ a chardonnay along with a worldwide tasting crew. Encouragement came from corkd.com  and the procedure came from Host Rick Bakas of St. Supery Winery ( View It! ) for a "... gathering of wine lovers on the first Thursday of every month. The focus on May 6 is Chardonnay. For 24 hours people in every time zone are encouraged to celebrate one of the world’s most planted grapes".

From ten originally set aside for this day I’ve selected Antonin Rodet 2006 Puligny-Montrachet as today’s #chardonnay wine. From the Best of Bridge and the fact my BH said I could do anything with a pork tenderloin brought in for this evening meal I've put together a Herb & Parmesan Crusted Pork Tenderloin - it's cooling in the fridge for a few hours. If it turns out OK (I'm no cook) I'll add photos after the meal as well as tasting notes. That's my plan for #chardonnay day.

My BH thought the tarragon ruled the plate - the pork had some strong flavour elements. I tend to double herbs since if I’m chopping I like having enough to tackle with my knife. I claim success though as there was nothing left on our plates.

The chardonnays that were originally in this blog have been reentered for tasting in 'May 2010 Chardonnays'. Other chards tasted were reviewed in April’s Pouilly-Fuissés blog. 
Cheers, Ww

• Antonin Rodet Puligny-Montrachet 2006, 83  -- V, Burgundy, France, #084541 $34.95

ANTONIN RODET PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2006, Burgundy, France, (Map It! ) 13.8% XD, #084541 $34.95  (Tasted May 6, 2010)  CS

Released by Vintages on November 8, 2008 described as “… This Puligny-Montrachet is dry, full-bodied with layers of lemon, spice, and almond notes leading to a long toasty finish. Enjoy with rich seafood dishes or chicken with a tarragon cream sauce.”  My notes: A golden straw with almost imperceptible floral scents plus cooked apple. A swirl leaves a thin film slowly forming tears and a first sip finds a penetrating acid not stinging but fronting flavours of green apple, slight almond and clay. Medium-bodied, with a long finish changing to mineral tones as the faint fruit fades. Had enough to  pair with the herb and parmesan crusted pork tenderloin although the pork won out being on the strong side. Pork tenderloin with apple or cherry sauce would have paired better. A mild sipper, interesting but not much left - a drink now.  83