Monday, June 30, 2014

2014 1st Half Summary - Reds

Jesse, still a Pup at 18 mos.
The 69 Reds tasted from January 1st through June 30 this year are listed below sequenced by rating.  Shown in brackets is the month of tasting where the original notes can be found.  There are 24 wines rated 90 and above. These are considered not lacking in any aspect and are excellent to sip and to complement a meal. Another twenty-seven in the 85 to 89 range are enjoyable but lack in minor degrees of fullness, varietal character or some other element. Eighteen are 84 and below - these may be consumable but not necessarily enjoyable in some way. See the side panel for more background.

The value that is hyphenated to the rating indicates whether a wine is 'worth the price', one that I'd buy in 'multiples', or one I'd buy in 'quantity'. 
See the side panel for more background. Click here for the 1st half WHITES+.
 
Consider this one person's view and perhaps a starting point if it helps. 


Note:
The LCBO has changed their search routine for finding wines and where they are in the Province. See side panel for more detail... I'm returning to use the Vintages and LCBO to avoid a LCBO Online Search graphic. 
...btw, a search for test labels 'Big Head' and '5 Vineyards' on any of the search sites produces meaningless results.



Cheers, Ww


Reds:

  • Shiloh Shor Cabernet Sauvignon KP 2007,  95-2  --  V, Judean Hills, Israel, #282947 $32.95  (Mar)
  • Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Shiraz Grenache 2011, 94-3 --  V, Penwortham, South Australia, #009225 $19.95  (Mar)    
  • Domaine des Fées Côtes du Rhône 2012, 93-3  --  V, Rhône, France, #272450 $15.95  (Mar)
  • Chilensis Lazuli 2010, 93-3  -- V, Maule Valley, Chile, #348128  $17.95  (Jan)
  • The Foreign Affair 'The Conspiracy' 2012 VQA  Niagara Peninsula, 93-3  --  V, Vineland, Ontario, #149237  $19.95  (Mar)
  • Zorzal Terroir Unico Malbec 2011, 92a/c-3  --  V, Tupungato, Argentina, #339788 $17.95  (Jan)
  • Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Shiraz 2011, 92-2  --  V, Penwortham, Australia, #925453 $19.95  (May)
  • Sterling Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2010, 92-2  --  V, Sonoma, California, #330241 $27.95  (Jan)
  • Bodegas Castano Hecula Monastrell 2011, 91a-3  --  G, Yecla, Spain, #300673 $11.80  (Feb)
  •  Alta Vista Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 91-2  --   V, Mendoza, Argentina,  #129957 $14.95  (Jun)
  • Romain Duvernay Cairanne 2010, 91-2  --  V,  Rhône, France, #320465 $16.75  (Jan)
  • Valdemar Inspiraciòn Selecciòn 2010, 91-2  --  V,  Rioja, Spain, #166512 $17.00  (Jun)
  • Feudi San Pio Valpolicella Classico Ripasso Superiore 2012,  91-2  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #181446 $17.95  (Jun)
  • Handcraft Petite Sirah Artisan Collection 2011, 91-2  V,  Manteca, California, #361907 $17.95  (Apr)  
  • Haselgrove First Cut Vintage 2010 Shiraz, 91a-2  --  V, McLaren Vale, Australia,  #367425 $18.95  (Jun)
  •  Bertani Villa Novare Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010, 91-2  --  V,  Veneto, Italy, #095810 $19.95 (May)
  • Heartland Stickleback Red 2010, 90-2  --  V,  South Australia, Australia, #116574 $13.95  (Feb)
  • Syrousse Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2011, 90-2  --  V, Tautavel, France,  #357343 $16.95  (Feb)
  • JIP JIP Rocks Shiraz 2011, 90-2  --  V, Padthaway, Australia, #673897 $16.95  (Feb)
  • Château Argadens Bordeaux Supérieur Grand Vin 2009, 90-2  --  V,  Gironde, France, #681643 $16.95  (Jan) 
  • Tempus Two Cabernet Merlot Limestone Coast 2011, 90-2  --  G, Pokolbin, NSW, Australia,  #308197 $16.95 (May)
  • 13th Street Winery Merlot 2012 VQA Creek Shores, 90a-2  --  V,  St. Catharines, Ontario,  #270504 $17.95  (May)
  •  Aquinas Pinot Noir Napa Valley 2012, 90-2  -  G, Napa Valley, California, #277657 $17.95*  (Apr)
  • Rolf Binder Hales Shiraz 2010, 90-2  --  V,  Barossa Valley, Australia, #054239 $18.95  (Jun)
  •  
  • Domaine de Grangeneuve Esprit de Grenache Côtes du Rhône Villages 2011, 90-1  --  V, Rhône, France, #364794 $20.95  (Mar)
  • Terredora Aglianico Campania 2010, 89-1  --  V, Montefusco, Italy,  #602284 $16.95  (May)
  • Cesari Mara Vino de Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2011, 89-2  --  G, Veneto, Italy, #506519 $17.95  (Feb)
  • Leone de Castris Riserva Salice Salentino 2010, 89-1  --  V,  Apulia, Italy, #597534 $19.95  (Jun)
  • Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010, 89-1  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #910430  $22.95* (GS#132852  $33.20)  (Apr)
  • Kaiken Malbec Reserva 2011, 88-1 --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, #058339 $14.95  (May)
  • Emiliana Natura Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 88-1  --  V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #061069 $14.95  (Feb)
  • Pasqua Villa Borghetti Passimento Rosso 2011, 88a-1  --  G, Verona, Italy,  #141952 $15.45  (May)
  • Pascual Toso Limited Edition Malbec 2011, 88-1  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #162610 $15.95  (Jan)
  • TintoNegro Uco Valley Reserve Malbec 2011, 88-1  --  V,  Mendoza, Argentina,  #364075 $15.95  (Mar)
  • Bocchino Giuseppe Arduine Barbera d'Asti 2011, 88a-1  --  V, Piedmont, Italy, #343277 $16.95  (Jan)
  • Menguante Seleccion Garnacha 2007, 88a-1  --  V,  Aragon, Spain, #313833 $16.95  (Apr)
  • Trapiche Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 87-1  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #614669 $11.95  (Jan)
  • Caparzo Sangiovese Toscana 2011, 87-1  --  G, Montalcino, Italy, #361022 $12.95  (Mar)
  • Red Guitar Old Vine Tempranilla Garnacha 2010, 87-1  --  G, Navarro, Spain, #054007  $12.95  (Apr)
  • Château Haut Méthée 2009, 87-1  --  V,  Bordeaux, France, #356592 $15.95  (Feb)
  • Beringer Founders' Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 87-1  --  V, Napa, California, #534263 $15.95*  (Apr)
  • Les Vignerons du Castelas Signargues Côtes du Rhône-Villages Vieilles Vignes 2010, 87  --  V, Rhône, France, #034116 $16.95  (Feb)
  • Ravenswood Vintners Blend Old Vine Zinfandel 2012, 88-1  --  V, Acampo, California, #359257 $17.95  (Feb) 
  • Robert Oatley Signature Series Pinot Noir 2012, 88-1  --  V,  New South Wales, Australia, #357491 $18.95  (Feb)
  • Robert Oatley Signature Series Pinot Noir 2012, 87  --  V,  Yarra Valley, Australia, #357491 $18.95  (Jun)
  • Cave de Roquebrun la Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2011, 86 --  V, Midi, France, #155804 $15.95  (Feb)
  • Fifth Leg Old Dog New Tricks Shiraz 2011, 86  --  G, Margaret River, Australia, #281345  $15.95  (Apr)
  • Domaine Lambrusgues Esprit Sauvage Pic Saint-Loup 2011, 86a  --  V,  Languedoc, France,  #354142 $17.95  (Apr)
  • Cave Spring Dolomite Pinot Noir 2011 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 86  --  O, Jordan, Ontario  #Winery  $19.45   (May)
  • San Cassiano Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2010, 85  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #354431 $17.95  (Jan)
  • Pérez Cruz Limited Edition Carmenère 2012, 85  --  V, Maipo Alto, Chile, #670539 $19.95  (May)
  •  
  • Paul Mas Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012,  84  --  G, South France,  #293134 $11.95*  (Mar)
  • Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d'Alba 2010,  84  --  V, Piedmont, Italy,  #748566 $20.75*  (Jan)
  • Tenuta de Angelis Rosso Piceno Superiore 2009, 83a  --  V, Marche, Italy, #324756 $11.25*   (Feb)
  • Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 83  --  G, Napa, California, #055517 $14.95  (Jun)
  • 13th Street Detour Gamay/Pinot Noir 2012, 83  --  G, St. Catharines, Ontario, #367565   $14.95*  (May)
  • Coyote's Run Five Mile Red 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 83a  --  G, St. David's, Ontario, #283416  $16.95  (Mar)
  • Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2012, 83  --  G, South Australia, #285544 $16.95   (May)
  • Inniskillin Discovery Series East-West Cabernet Shiraz 2011, 83 --  O, NotL ON & Oliver BC, Canada, #998346 (Wine Rack)  $17.95  (Jan)
  • Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,  83a  --  V,  Geyserville, California,  #343467 $19.95  (Jun)
  • Bodega Luigi Bosca Finca La Linda Syrah 2012, 82  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #223651 $12.95  (Jan)
  • Gariottin Malbec Cahors 2010, 82  --  G, Cahors, France, #340927 $13.15  (Mar)
  • Terre Dei Volsci Velletri 2008, 82  --  G,  Aprilia, Italy, #175141 $14.90  (May)
  • O Pinot Noir by Gilles Louvet Organic 2012, 82  --  G, Narbonne, France, #292995 $14.95  (May)
  • Rosso Piceno Cantina Sant'Isidoro Pinto Macerato Italy2011,  82 -- V,  Marche, Italy, #364885 $15.95  (Mar)
  • Pirramimma Stock's Hill Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2011, 80a  --  G,  McLaren Vale, Australia,  #352252 $16.90 (May)
  • J.P. Chenet Limited Release Pinot Noir 2012, 78  --  G, Midi, France, #142406 $12.95 (Apr)
  • Villa Maria Private Bin Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 77  --  G, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, #310300 $14.45*  (Jan)
  • Bodega Luigi Bosca Finca La Linda Merlot 2012, NR  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #229849 $12.95  (Jan)

2014 1st Half Summary - Whites+

Jesse on Bench
There were 71 Whites+ consisting of 56 whites, 6 rosés and 9 sparklings tasted from January 1st through June 30 this year. These are listed below sequenced by rating.  Shown in brackets is the month of tasting where the original notes can be found.  Of the whites there are thirteen wines rated 90 and above. These are considered not lacking in any aspect and are excellent to sip and to complement a meal. Another nineteen in the 85 to 89 range are increasingly enjoyable although to varying degrees lack fullness, varietal character or some other element. Twenty-four in the range 84 and below may be consumable but lack noticeably in more than one essential aspect. Click here for the 1st half REDS .


The value that is hyphenated to the rating indicates whether a wine is 'worth the price', one that I'd buy in 'multiples', or one I'd buy in 'quantity'.  See the side panel for more background.

Hope you'll find something useful. 

Note:
The LCBO has changed their search routine for finding wines and where they are in the Province. See side panel for more detail... I'm returning to use the Vintages and LCBO to avoid a LCBO Online Search graphic. 
...btw, a search for test labels 'Big Head' and '5 Vineyards' on any of the search sites produces meaningless results.


Cheers, Ww


Whites:
  • Robert Oatley Signature Series Riesling 2012, 93-3  --  V, Western Australia, #357426 $17.95  (Feb)
  • Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc+Viognier 2012, 92-2  --  V, Oakville, California, #673756 $21.95  (Jan)
  • Monchhof Robert Eymael Riesling 2011, 92-2  --  V,  Mosel, Germany, #349431 $16.95  (Feb)
  • Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2012, 91-2  --  V, Renwick, New Zealand, #616243  $19.95  (Jun)
  • Elephant Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 91-2  --  V,  Hawkes Bay, New Zealand,  #361238 $23.95  (Apr)
  • Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Riesling 2012, 91-2  --  V, Clare Valley, South Australia,  #365635 $17.95  (Mar)
  • Daniel Lenko Gewurztraminer 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-1  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #356832 $20.25  (Mar)
  • The Foreign Affair Ex-Pat Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2  --  V, Vineland Station, Ontario, #372326 $16.95  (Apr)
  • Rolf Binder Highness Riesling Eden Valley 2012, 90-3  --  V, Tanunda, South Australia, #368266  $18.95  (May)
  • Volcanes de Chile Pomerape Limited Edition Sauvignon Blanc 2011,  90-2  --  V,  Leyda Valley, Chile, #371138  $14.95  (Jun)
  • Donatien Bahaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2012, 90-2  --  V, St. Florent, France, #140889 $15.95  (Feb)
  • Flat Rock Twisted 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2  --  V, Jordan, Ontario, #001578  $16.95  (Feb)
  • Cave Spring Estate Bottled The Adam Steps Riesling 2012 VQA Beamsville Bench, 90-1 --  O, Jordan, Ontario  #Winery  $22.10  (May)
  • Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2013, 89-1  --  V,  Alto Adige, Italy, #954024 $18.95  (Jun)
  • Greenlane Estate Winery Old Vines Riesling 2011 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 89 --  V,  Beamsville, Ontario,  #351486 $22.95  (Jan)
  • O Chardonnay by Gilles Louvet Organic 2012, 89-2 --  G,  Languedoc, France, #320432 $14.40  (May)
  • Casa Do Valle Grande Escolha 2012, 89-2  --  V, Vinho Verde, Portugal, #276220 $15.95  (Mar)
  • Maison Adrien Vacher les Adrets Altesse 'Roussette de Savoie' 2012, 89-2  --  V,  Savoie, France,  #365163 $16.95  (Mar)
  • Willm Réserve Riesling 2012, 88-1  --  V,  Alsace, France, #011452 $15.95  (May)
  • Firesteed Oregon Pinot Gris 2012, 88-1  --  G, Rickreall, Oregon, #323808 $17.80  (Apr)
  • Hinterbrook Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, 88-1  --  V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #270512 $17.95  (Apr)
  • Cave du Haut-Poitou Vallee Loire Sauvignon Blanc 2012,  87-1  --  V, Loire, France,  #357293 $16.95  (Apr)
  • Joffré Pasion 4 Torrontés 2013, 87-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #361063  $14.95  (May)
  • Jip Jip Rocks Unoaked Chardonnay 2012, 87-1  --  V, Padthaway, Australia, #175752  $15.95  (May)
  • Maison Adrien Vacher les Adrets Altesse Roussette de Savoie 2012, 87-1  --  V, Savoie, France, #365163 $16.95  (May)
  • Zenato Lugana San Benedetto 2012, 87-1  --  V,  Veneto, Italy, #707158 $14.95  (Mar)
  • Balestri Valda Soave Classico 2012, 87-1  --  V, Veneto, Italy,  #362939 $15.95  (Mar)
  • Greenlane Estate Winery Old Vines Riesling 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 86  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #283432 $22.75*   (Jan)
  • Cave Spring Dolomite Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 86 --  O, Jordan, Ontario  #Winery  $15.02  (May)
  • Cave Spring Sauvignon Blanc 2011 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 86  --  G, Jordan, Ontario, #529933 $15.95  (Apr)
  • Tommasi Viticoltori le Volpare Soave 2011, 85  --  V,  Veneto, Italy, #n/a  $10.25* (GS#132852  $33.20)  (Apr)
  • Tollgate Fumé Blanc Stratus Vineyards 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85  --  V,  Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #335711 $15.20*  (May)
  •  
  • 13th Street Detour Riesling/Chardonnay 2012,  84  --  G, St. Catharines, Ontario, #367573  $14.95*  (May)
  • 13th Street White Palette 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84  --  V, St. Catharines, Ontario, #207340 $15.95  (May)
  • San Silvestro Fossili Gavi di Gavi 2012, 84  --  V,  Piedmont, Italy, #368753 $16.95  (Jun)
  • Moulin Camus Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2012, 84  --  V, Loire, France, #358630 $16.95 (Apr)
  • Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2012, 84  --  V, Abruzzo, Italy,  #365478  $15.95  (Mar)
  • William Fèvre Espino Chardonnay 2011, 84a  --  V, Maipo Valley, Chile, #350058 $13.95   (Feb)
  • Greenlane Estate Winery Pinot Gris/Riesling 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore,  84  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #283721 $12.75*   (Jan)
  • Greenlane Estate Winery Riesling 2011 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 84  --  V,  Beamsville, Ontario, #327247 $15.95  (Jan)
  • Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011, 84 --  V, Pokolbin NSW, Australia, #662627 $18.95  (Jan)
  • Bastianich Friulano Adriatico 2011, 84  --  V, Friuli, Italy, #277467 $19.95  (Jan)
  • Rockway Small Lot (365 Cases) White Assemblage 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 83  --  V,  St. Catharines, Ontario, #359315 $16.95  (Apr)
  • Hess Select Chardonnay Monterey County 2011,  83  --   G, Napa, California,  #270074  $15.95  (Jun)
  • Finca Nueva Blanco 2012, 83  --  V,  Rioja, Spain, #280560  $16.95  (May)
  • Hess Select Chardonnay Monterey County 2012, 82  --  G, Salinas Valley, California, #270074  $15.95  (Apr)
  • Calamus Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2012 VQA Vinemount Ridge, 82  --  V, Jordan, Ontario, #349456 $13.95  (Jan)
  • Masi Masianco Pinot Grigio & Verduzzo IGT 2012, 82  --  G, Italy, #620773 $15.00   (Feb)
  • Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Musqué 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, 81  --  O, Jordan, Ontario  #Winery  $14.14  (May)
  • Yamhill Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2011, 81  --  V,  McMinnville, Oregon, #366294  $17.95
  • J&F Lurton les Fumées Blanches Sauvignon Blanc 2012,  81 -- G, France, #472555  $11.95*  (Mar)
  • Palatine Hills Neufeld Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012 VQA Niagara Lakeshore,  80  --  V, NotL, Ontario, #352344 $14.25*  (Mar)
  • Mas des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Blanc 2012, 80  --  V, Rhône, France, #701094  $15.95  (Feb)
  • Montevina Pinot Grigio NV,  78  --  G, Napa, California, #237750 $14.95  (Mar)
  • Pillitteri Estate Winery Viognier 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, NR  --  V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #330894 $14.95  (May)
  • Patio 9 White Vidal Spritz VQA Ontario, NR  --   V, St. Catharines, Ontario, #341693 $12.95  (Apr)
Rosés:
  • Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Rosé 2013, 91-2  --  V, Loire, France, #119693 $16.95  (Jun)
  • See Ya Later Ranch Nelly Rosé VQA Okanagan Valley 2011,  87-1 --  V,  Okanagan Falls, BC, #325936 $13.25  (Feb)
  •  
  • Remy Pannier Rosé d'Anjou 2012, 83  --  G, Loire, France, #012641  $12.95  (May)
  • Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto Rosé 2013, 83  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #045203 $14.95  (May)
  • Milbrandt Traditions Columbia Valley Rosé 2011, 83  --  V, Washington, USA, #278309  $14.65  (Feb)
  • Domaine LaFond Roc-Épine Tavel Rosé 2012, 78  --  V, Rhône, France, #950709 $17.95  (Jan)
Sparkling:
  • Tawse Spark Limestone Ridge Riesling Sparkling Wine 2012 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 93-3  --  V, Vineland, Ontario, #370361 $19.95  (May)
  • De Chanceny Excellence Brut Vouvray 2010, 90-2  --  V, Loire, France, #352237 $20.95  (Jan)
  • Azahara Sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, 88-1  --  V, Victoria, Australia, #357483 $17.95  (Feb)
  • Perlage Canah Brut Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene 2012, 88-1 --  V, Veneto, Italy, #358390  $19.95  (May)
  • Trapiche Extra Brut Sparkling Wine 2013, 86-1  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #262261 $10.95*  (May)
  • Muga Conde de Haro Brut Cava 2010, 86  --  V,   Rioja, Spain, #168559  $19.95  (May)
  • Domaine de Vaugondy Brut Vouvray, 86  --  V,  Loire, France, #154567 $15.95  (Apr)
  •  
  • Rotari Brut Trentodoc NV, 84 --  V,  Alto Adige/Trentino, Italy, #708495 $17.95  (Apr)
  • Mionetto Prosecco DOC Treviso, 83 --  G, Veneto, Italy, V, #266023 $17.95  (Mar)

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Page not found Error

Looks like the LCBO has changed some of their webpage addresses. Sorry about that - really screws things up with finding wine inventory from my blog. We'll see if they let things return to 'normal' in the next few days!

PS. I just took a look at the new LCBO search routine and will have to look again.... The programming folk, have listened and have 'upgraded' somewhat their software.  Seems there's quite a ways to go yet but I'm optimistic!!!  In the meantime click on general link and enter the wine product number or name to find what's available.
PPS. Other than some cosmetic changes LCBO's search options are relatively unchanged. Optimism took a 180.





The train has left the station... it's a long way to the next!

Cheers, Ww

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Why VQA.

Std Agriculture
Why VQA.

I've been thinking about how VQA accreditation has contributed to my enjoyment of Canadian wines over the past years. I have to admit that I have rated VQA wines higher than nonVQA wines and overall I have a leaning to wines that are accredited in some form in other countries (although I don't make a point of verifying these 'accreditations').

A more fundamental question given our monopoly's eagerness to control is, are Niagara wineries so locked into VQA accreditation they can't break free individually or collectively? and would consumers be better off without this oversight? My answers are Yes! and No! and I'll tell you why.

I'm aware of only two cases where VQA accreditation was refused. One was based on an unacceptable onion skin coloration of a Pinot Gris and the other is the more recent case of a Riesling that was 'atypical' of an Ontario varietal. The first I was in disbelief since some quality PGs have an onion skin tone - but I thought no more of it and bought offshore. The latter I pledged to followup and, after visiting the winery, I purchased several of the Rieslings to find out more. (Results are in last month's notes - May 2014

Both cases included subjective opinions of what is a relationship between a consumer and his winemaker.  As in 'church and state' a monopoly has no business repealing a wine strictly on taste. Tell me if a wine has a harmful level of manganese or sulphite. Does it have microbial virus levels - and if I make a wine out of cucumbers it shouldn't wear the VQA crest pure and simple. Now if I make a wine made from 100% Ontario grapes but tastes like cucumber it's up to consumers to vote with their dollars, definitely not LCBO Product Consultants depriving consumers their right of choice and winemakers access to a market, although I wouldn't expect the LCBO to stock the wine. As well there's a Machiavellian side to a VQA rejection. A VQA accredited wine comes with a significant 'kickback', a 'comply and your income doubles'. That answers the first question - wineries are suppressed and are likely cautious to explore new grapes or innovative techniques even if these have proven to be successful in other wine growing regions. The financial impact is too imposing to oppose and everyone loses. In the Riesling case I found there were extenuating circumstances that led to the rejection.

Recent developments of gene and DNA manipulation are now complicating grape varietals. Sophisticated equipment (Ref 1) separates must elements for augmentation or elimination. In the interest of consumers and for their protection I believe it has become crucial to not only support VQA testing but expand it by adopting a lexicon of technological descriptors. Who else but a panel of independent analysts to filter and selectively eliminate incredulous sometimes harmful gimmickry.

How often have we purchased fruit and vegetables, imported or local - strawberries, blueberries, cantaloupes, watermelons, lettuce, celery, herbs, etc. etc. to find unacceptable flavours? How quickly has 'organic' become the preferred choice? Consumers recognize the term and pay a premium for 'organic'.  Open markets and food fairs are inspected for their hygiene. Consumers assume there's someone behind scenes inspecting the produce they buy and feed to their families - is the inspection done by store 'buyers' or by an independent third party acting on our behalf? It's the customer doing the 'final' inspection determining whether the broccoli is the right green, has a 'typical' aroma, or has the tactile texture of freshness.

Back to wine: There are alternatives without upsetting the VQA tradition. 'RAW' is gaining support in eastern countries and represents a well thought out regimen for ensuring a wine, from terroir to bottle, has never been manipulated unnaturally. Other terms such as biodynamic, sustainable, natural vineyard management... each has a  defined level of 'intervention' independent of VQA and managed by associations dedicated to natural viticulture. Would it be sufficient for the LCBO to say that a wine made from 100% Canadian grapes and having 'RAW' (or some such) on the label is acceptable, a rubber stamp to their approval? Another way of saying this would be if 'natural' winemaking terms became partners of VQA.  With this one identifier a consumer will know the VQA wine inside the bottle was based on grapes grown without -cides, picked and processed without heavy-manipulation, cone spinning or chemical enhancements and fermented with indigenous yeasts.

But what to do with GMO vines (Ref 2)? and is 'blow over' a concern in our wine regions (Ref 3)? 


VQA with an identifier could still be used to include standard agricultural practices: foreign yeasts, -cides and chemical earth nutrients, etc. as well as new technologies: cone spinning, reverse osmosis, etc. - perhaps VQA:AGR.  If for legal reasons identifiers can't be used colour code the VQA symbol. There must be a better way of supporting the growing diversity of customers and of wineries. (Ref 4
RAW
Biodynamic
Whatever

Now why is my skin itching so much?  and why do I sneeze after a glass of red? and how can I tell what to avoid? Unfortunately the way it is now VQA is colour blind!

Think about it!  Prepare for the future because it's now! 
"The nation that destroys its soil destroys itself" (Franklin D. Roosevelt)


Ww

Thursday, June 05, 2014

June 2014 Wines - 16 Tasted of 16

The LCBO has changed their search routine for finding wines and where they are in the Province. See side panel for more detail... I'm returning to use the Vintages and LCBO links for two reasons: to avoid losing the link back to Strictlytasting as well as avoiding the LCBO Online Search graphic.

THE LINEUP: (Reds, Whites, Rosés)

  • Alta Vista Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 91-2  --   V, Mendoza, Argentina,  #129957 $14.95
  • Valdemar Inspiraciòn Selecciòn 2010, 91-2  --  V,  Rioja, Spain, #166512 $17.00
  • Feudi San Pio Valpolicella Classico Ripasso Superiore 2012,  91-2  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #181446 $17.95  
  • Haselgrove First Cut Vintage 2010 Shiraz, 91a-2  --  V, McLaren Vale, Australia,  #367425 $18.95
  • Rolf Binder Hales Shiraz 2010, 90-2  --  V,  Barossa Valley, Australia, #054239 $18.95
  • Leone de Castris Riserva Salice Salentino 2010, 89-1  --  V,  Apulia, Italy, #597534 $19.95 
  • Robert Oatley Signature Series Pinot Noir 2012, 87  --  V,  Yarra Valley, Australia, #357491 $18.95     
  • Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 83  --  G, Napa, California, #055517 $14.95 
  • Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,  83a  --  V,  Geyserville, California,  #343467 $19.95
         
 
  • Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2012, 91-2  --  V, Renwick, New Zealand, #616243  $19.95
  • Volcanes de Chile Pomerape Limited Edition Sauvignon Blanc 2011,  90-2  --  V,  Leyda Valley, Chile, #371138  $14.95
  • Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2013, 89-1  --  V,  Alto Adige, Italy, #954024 $18.95    
  • San Silvestro Fossili Gavi di Gavi 2012, 84  --  V,  Piedmont, Italy, #368753 $16.95 
  • Hess Select Chardonnay Monterey County 2011,  83  --   G, Napa, California,  #270074  $15.95 
  • Yamhill Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2011, 81  --  V,  McMinnville, Oregon, #366294  $17.95   

  • Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Rosé 2013, 91-2  --  V, Loire, France, #119693 $16.95 
 (V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated)



TASTINGS:

HASELGROVE FIRST CUT VINTAGE 2010 SHIRAZ,  McLaren Vale, Australia, 14.0% XD  6g/L, #367425  $18.95  (Tasted June 5, 2014)


Released by Vintages on June 7, 2014 and rated 91 by James Halliday (July 17, 2012).  My notes: The colour is a rich regal ruby. A swirl leaves a smooth film topped by a full rim that sheds columns of long legs. An aroma of black liquorice, dark chocolate, black pepper and blackberry all mingle for a pleasing sniff. The first sip is silky smooth, well balanced with fine tannins, fruit now blended with smoke finishing with liquorice. Pair with a charcuterie of cold meats and cheeses, a T-bone, other grilled beef or rack of lamb. Now four and could go another four years in the cellar. A Haselgrove style or terroir that would be a great addition to any cellar. I preferred aerating. 91a

ALTA VISTA PREMIUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012,  Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5%  XD  5g/L,  #129957  $14.95  (Tasted June 15, 2014)


Released by Vintages on May 24, 2014 and rated 91 by Natalie MacLean  (December 27, 2013).  My notes:  There's a violet charcoal cast to this ruby: deep, dense and warm. The nose is full of fresh black berries with a touch of tang and a swirl leaves a firm film that drains long slow legs from a tardy smooth rim. The first sip has fresh blackberry combined with smoky liquorice flavours and a nose to match - ends surprisingly cool. Pair with beef stroganoff, T-bones, Prime rib or BBQ's back ribs. A moderately big red to go with many occasions from sipping to large beefy meals. Cellaring several years is likely to keep the fruit while smoothing the tang. 91

HESS SELECT CHARDONNAY MONTEREY COUNTY 2011,  Napa, California, 13.5%  XD  5g/L,  #270074   $15.95  (Tasted June 13, 2014)


A General listing.  My notes:  The colour of bright gold and a swirl leaves a fragmenting film until only nodules are left on the glass. A faint butterscotch scent with a grassy edge adds to a sharp bite and lemon, tart apple and pineapple mingle for an overall indistinct flavour blend. At the end of a sip a firm acid has quenched the palate while lean fruit has mellowed for a long extra dry finish. Pair with grilled Atlantic salmon with latkes and an asparagus side or chicken pot pie - great with a smoked salmon pizza. A balanced commercial drink-now to please but not linger over - perhaps young fruit. 83

SAN SILVESTRO FOSSILI GAVI DI GAVI 2012,  Piedmont, Italy, 12.5%  XD  4g/L, #368753   $16.95  (Tasted June 20, 2014)


Released by Vintages on June 7, 2014.  My notes:  A clear mid yellow that leaves a thin film with a jagged rim to creep down the glass. A sniff reveals a faint grassy green apple scent, dry and tangy. A sip parches the palate drying the tongue and refreshing the taste buds then into a long mineral finish. Young lemon showing the acid and flavour backbone but not full fruit.  A fish white - pair with calamari, lobster stuffed with shrimp, crab chunks or steamed mussels in a marinara sauce. A drink now - a quaffer or perhaps a warm weather sipper with crushed ice and an oz. of Grand Marnier or, my favourite, Disarrono to bolster character. 84

LEONE DE CASTRIS RISERVA SALICE SALENTINO 2010,  Apulia, Italy, 13.5%  D  12g/L, #597534  $19.95  (Tasted June 11, 2014)


Released by Vintages on June 7, 2014 and rated 3 of 3 by Gambero Rosso Italian Wines, 2014. A blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes.  My notes: A deep charcoal hued ruby with a lean smoky plum scent.  A swirl casts a firm film to accumulate a full rim that quickly sheds long slow legs. The first sip is ultra smooth spreading warmth and a plum-cherry flavour balanced by polite acid. Second sips brighten the flavours now adding a layer of tannin going into a long finish. Have with Osso Bucco, mushroom pot pie or a chorizo pasta dish. Four years young peaking this year and with several more years potential. A quiet red with lots of warmth. 89

VALDEMAR INSPIRACIÓN SELECCIÓN 2010, Rioja, Spain, 14.0% XD 8g/L, #166512   $17.00  (Tasted June 28, 2014)


Released by Vintages on May 10, 2014 and rated 91 by Thomas Matthews  (December 31, 2013). Ranked #34 in Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2013.  My notes: .  My notes: A blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano grapes. A sniff reveals a pleasing blend of luscious raspberry/strawberry aromas supported by smoky walnut. The colour is an opaque black cherry and a firm film sticks then slowly forms a smooth rim hanging a circular row of long legs. Full-bodied and full flavoured, a combination of earthy liquorice, black cherry and charred raspberry will allure some sippers - heavy flavour notes and a prominent layering of tannin will quickly separate out the sippers, aye or nay. I've rated based on 'aye'. Cellaring could mellow some more, at peak now. Have with savoury steaks or rubbed and grilled beef ribs. 91

ROLF BINDER HALES SHIRAZ 2010, Barossa Valley, Australia, 13.5%  XD  7g/L,  #054239  $18.95  (Tasted June 6, 2014)


Released by Vintages on May 24, 2014 and rated 90+ by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW,  (December 2011).  My notes: Loved the Riesling last month and loved this Shiraz too, a blend of 89% Barossa Shiraz with the addition of 4% Grenache and 7% Mataro. The ruby colour is rich and dense appearing opaque in the glass. The film is fairly thin sticking momentarily then fragmenting into lacework. The nose has a leaning to delicate floral combined with the blackberry but not enough to say it's 'fruity'. Plum added to the berry comes with a sip - appetizingly concentrated bursting with tang, spice with some steel to a silky texture then a long bone dry ending. Quaff for a fresher burst of all of the above. Pair with bbq'd ribs, steaks, burgers or meaty pizzas.  Drink now for its freshness or cellar to smoothen, perhaps 4 years.  90

SMOKING LOON CABERNET SAUVIGNON  2012, Napa, California, 13.5%  D  10g/L,  #055517  $14.95  (Tasted June 19, 2014)


A General listing.  My notes: The 2011 vintage was tasted last year and rated 91. The 2012 vintage has a considerably different character and devolving body. Ripe cherries dipped in dark chocolate is first impression from my nose. A violet tinge to deep ruby offers a setting for fresh berries. A swirl lays a moderate film with eventually a slightly rounded rim and several slow tears. The sharpness of the first sip slows down solo sipping as I go looking for a slice of peppery kabasa or a pepperoni stick. Save for a beefy steak grilled rare or ribs with a savoury rub. An extra dry finish offers ample fine tannins as fruit fades and a chalk texture takes over. A commercial red for an acquired taste - a drink now. 83

VOLCANES DE CHILE POMERAPE LIMITED EDITION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, Leyda Valley, Chile, 13.5%  XD  4g/L,  #371138   $14.95  (Tasted June 22, 2014)


Released by Vintages on June 7, 2014 and rated 90 by Michael Schaecher Wine Enthusiast  (December 2012).  My notes:  A light golden blond with minimum viscosity showing when swirled, with a jagged rim quickly fragmenting. Grapefruit, lime and herbal scents mingle for a unique scent. Just as the nose is neither floral nor vegetable the first sip is as unique tying matching flavours together with a acidic binding and finishing with a drying mineral. The character is better suited to seafood and was suitably paired with battered fish, halibut or cod, chips with ketchup and malt vinegar and a bright coleslaw.  Cellaring for several years is likely.  90

YAMHILL VALLEY VINEYARDS PINOT GRIS 2011,  McMinnville, Oregon,  13.1%  XD  4g/L,  #366294   $17.95  (Tasted June 17, 2014)

Released by Vintages on May 24, 2014.  My notes:  A slight green to a pale blond colour and faint honeysuckle nose. A swirl gives a smooth thin film accumulating long legs then tears hanging in columns. The first sip has a touch of beeswax and green apple with a prominent mineral dryness finishing long after the sparse fruit has gone. Has an unusual flavour blend, a sip starts 'mmmm' and ends 'yuhh' - not a sipper for most. Also I found difficult to pair with its fading light acid and bland finish. Was OK with a fruit and salad buffet plate. A drink now and perhaps on the decline. 81


KONRAD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012, Renwick, New Zealand, 13.0%  XD  6g/L,  #616243   $19.95  (Tasted June 21, 2014)

Release by Vintages on May 24, 2014 and given 3.5 of 5 by Michael Cooper, Buyer's Guide to NZ Wines  (2014).  My notes:  Airing a few minutes allows the nose to setup, then gooseberries become prominent. Colour is a crisp mid yellow. A faint caramel adds a difference to the nose and a swirl lays a moderate film with a rounded rim that eventually sheds long slow legs. Full flavours are on the grassy side of gooseberry and carry into a long chalk dry tangy finish. Different rather than comparable to a Cloudy Bay but still full-bodied and multi-faceted and as complex. Pair with potato and leek soup, shrimp mounded on a creamy pasta or cod on basmati rice drizzled with a coconut curry sauce. Cellaring several years is likely. Serve just off chill (15oC) for full flavour. 91

JEAN-MAURICE RAFFAULT CHINON ROSÉ 2013, Loire, France, 12.5%  XD  2g/L, #119693  $16.95  (Tasted June 24, 2014)


Released by Vintages on May 10, 2014.  My notes:  A blushing salmon colour, if there's such a thing, very appealing glowing brilliantly in the glass. A thin film shreds quickly as it falls without forming a rim. There's a powdery touch to a faint strawberry and cherry aroma. The first sip is luscious, a bright acid refreshes cleaning the palate then leaving an extra dry metallic finish while retaining the fruit.  Sip slowly when well chilled (serve at 8oC) allowing warm hands (15oC) to augment the nose and smoothen the texture - très agréable - or pair with slices of smoked salmon pizza, Grilled Arctic char or munching through a shrimp ring. Keeping a dozen in the cellar six years is possible.  91


TIEFENBRUNNER PINOT GRIGIO 2013, Alto Adige, Italy, 13.5%  XD  6g/L, #954024 $18.95  (Tasted June 27, 2014)

Release by Vintages on June 7, 2014. Rated 90 by Natalie MacLean (January 22, 2014).  My notes:  A noticeable floral and mineral fragrance hits the nasal nodes - just enough floral for a pleasing balance. The film is thin and leaves a receding jagged rim. The colour is a soft blond. A cool serving would go nicely as an aperitif having a touch of silk, a slight roundness and flavours of grapefruit, lime and limestone - a polite acid makes this a refreshing sipper. Four years in the cellar should be OK.  Pair with seafood. 89

GEYSER PEAK ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009, Geyserville, California,  13.5%  XD 7g/L,  #343467  $19.95  (Tasted June 24, 2014)


Released by Vintages on June 7, 2014. Rated 89 by Steve Heimoff, Wine Enthusiast (April 2013).  My notes:  One whiff and I aerated before sniffing and sipping. The colour is blackened ripe cherry and a swirl leaves a firm film with a rounded rim that sheds a combo of long legs and slow tears.  There's an acrid touch to a dark plum nose, some smoke and liquorice on the side. The acid level overrides dark berry fruit until a long finish mellows it and a blend of blackberries, smoky liquorice comes forward. Have with rubbed beef steaks, beef eaters pizza or pepperoni sticks. Pairing is limited by the acid/flavour intensity. Cellaring several years may modify but not improve. 83a

ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES PINOT NOIR 2012,   Yarra Valley, Australia, 13.5%  XD  5g/L,  #357491  $18.95  (Tasted June 25, 2014)


Released by Vintages on February 1, 2014.  My notes:  A faint aroma of crushed strawberries in a mild smoky setting and, with a see through mid red cherry colour, jovial in spirit. The first sip senses a thin silky veil with delicately blended herbs. The finish balances acid and flavours now possibly softened by buffet nibbles. At 10oC this is a pleasing sipper or a match for trout or pickerel, bass or sunfish, any delicate freshwater fish with a touch of sweet. A drink now. 87

FEUDI SAN PIO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO RIPASSO SUPERIORE 2012, Veneto, Italy, 14.0%  D  11g/L,  #181446   $17.95  (Tasted June 29, 2014)


Released by Vintages on June 7, 2014.  My notes: The 2008 vintage was priced at $15.95 and rated 90 by Beppi Crosariol of the G&M.  Current inventory can be checked on The Liquery website.  This has a deep black cherry colour and a muted metallic, blackberry nose. A swirl leaves a viscous film and rounded rim that fragments on the glass and a string of tiny tears. A tactful acid frames fresh berry flavours peaking then fading slowly to a long bright finish. Acceptably dry on the palate while retaining the original fruit makes this a delightful sipper. Pair with a variety of red sauced pastas with chicken, chorizo sausage or a mixed pork veal ragout.  Cellaring several years should bring out more mellowness and added depth. 91