Monday, January 16, 2012

January 2012 Whites+: 17 Tasted of 17

Peterborough Locks - Long ago
A collection of whites+ from under our Christmas tree.  Click on Reds for others.
Cheers, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by whites, rosés, sparkles and other:  

  • Ciù Ciù La Merlettaie Pecorino Offida 2009, 90-2  --  V, Marche,  Italy, #245670 $16.95
  • Murphy-Goode ‘The Fumé’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 90-2  --  V, Santa Rosa, California,  #721092 $18.95 
  • Springfield Estate Wild Yeast Chardonnay 2006,  90-1 --  V, Robertson, South Africa, #694646 $24.95
  • Angel’s Gate Riesling 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 88-1  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #160523   $13.95 
  • Amani Chardonnay 2009, 88-1  -- V,  Stellenbosch, South Africa, #687442 $17.95 
  • Domaine de Vedilhan Viognier 2008, 87-1  --  G, Narbonne, France, #162081 $10.70 
  • Angel’s Gate Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  84  --  G, Beamsville, Ontario, #001818  $12.95
  • EOS Estate Central Coast Chardonnay 2008, 83  --  V, Paso Robles, California,   #955914  $18.95
  • Running Duck Fairtrade Organic Chardonnay 2010,  80  --  V, Western Cape, South Africa, #149856  $12.95         

  • Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  85  -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #172643 $14.95

  • Bottega Petalo’ Il Vino dell’Amore Moscato,  91-3  --  G, Montebelluna, Italy, #588780   $13.05
  • 'De Chanceny' Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut NV, 88-1  --  G, Loire, France, #211466   $16.70*
  • Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve ‘Paul deLane’ NV, 88-1  -- G, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, France, #214981  $17.60  
  • Foss Marai Extra Dry Prosecco Vino Spumante, 86  --  V, Valdobbiadene, Italy, #729392  $18.95
  • Codorniu Brut Clasico Sparkling NV, 83  --  G, Penedès, Spain, #215814  $12.75

  •  Jose Maria da Fonseca Alambre Moscatel 2000, 96-3  -- V,  Setúbal, Portugal, #357996 $13.95
  • Dr. Hermann Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese 2006, 93-2  --  V, Mosel, Germany, #181917  $21.95
    (G - General Listing, V - Vintages,  r-v - Rating-Value)


    DOMAINE DE VEDILHAN VIOGNIER 2008, Narbonne, France, 13.5% XD, #162081 $10.70  (Tasted January 19, 2012)  CS

    A General listing produced by Etablissements Paul Boutinot.  My notes:  A discontinued product. Without aerating: There’s a pale golden glint to the colour and a slight musk aroma to an apple lime nose - no floral. The film sticks to the glass then slowly recedes evenly leaving only small remnants. The first sip has a strong tang to silky textured, medium-bodied, round flavours of honey and lime, light and fading quickly to a chalky finish - a slight musk still present. An OK sipper that goes down with a pucker - better with buffet table servings. Also good paired with grilled trout with parsnip, broccoli and potato. A drink now. 86   With Aerating: A clean but light citrus nose and a pleasing tang to brighten the first sip adding to soft chalky textures with flavours of white grapefruit touched by lime that slowly fade leaving only tang and chalk. An interesting sipper - better as a House fish white.  87
    RUNNING DUCK FAIRTRADE ORGANIC CHARDONNAY 2010, Western Cape, South Africa, 13.5% XD, #149856 $12.95  (Tasted January 11, 2012)  CS

    Released by Vintages on January 7, 2012 and a Stellar Winery product.  My notes: The Vintages Panel tasted this in February 2011. The colour is a mid yellow, bright in the glass and has a lees and pear aroma. The film forms a solid rim that slowly fragments dropping slow tears. Aerating helps reduce a sharp acid component and the first sip is medium-bodied with a round texture and salty pear carrying the lees on the lips for a long finish. An acquired taste as a sipper - needs a cheesy macaroni entrée or fried chicken fingers to build flavours. Cellaring could emphasize the salty component rather than the marginal fruit. 80

    CIÙ CIÙ LA MERLETTAIE PECORINO OFFIDA 2009, Marche, Italy, 13.5% D, #245670  $16.95  (Tasted January 14, 2012)  CS

    Released by Vintages on August 6, 2011.  Rated 90 by Antonio Galloni (August 2010).  My notes:  If quality was gauged by the tightness of a cork this would rate 100.  A bright golden hue with a whiff of Meyer lemon for a nose. A swirl brings a rim that slides evenly down the glass. The first sip is a full lemon (Meyer) with equal tang and a silky smoothness followed by a light tangy chalk as an ending. A moderately long finish changing throughout. I enjoyed sipping for its freshness, however more of a dependable house white to pair with seafood, fish or crustaceans. Keep a year or two likely not to change except to add more silk. 90

    ANGEL'S GATE WINERY SELECT VQA GIFT PACK (4x375mL),  Beamsville, Ontario, #189969  $34.95  CS
    Overall I was impressed with the wines in this package when tasted December 3, 2010 - same mix and same vintages as this year with average 750mL price of $17.50. If my calculations are correct that's approx $8 for packaging. I also wonder if leftover packages have been langishing in an LCBO warehouse since last year?  The following includes prices for 750mL bottles currently on the LCBO website. Click on Angel's Gate Reds for remaining tasting notes.   Conclusion: I'm no longer impressed.

    ANGEL'S GATE RIESLING 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench,  11.0% D, #160523  $13.95   (Tasted January 10, 2012)  CS

    A Vintages release. My notes:  Rated 88 in 2010. A light golden colour with a noticeable aroma of citrus, almond and peach - swirl for more - nicely tangy. The film fragments quickly from the rim leaving only small islands in its wake. A bright first sip, drying with a hint of sweet, a light silk and full of interesting flavours, some lime, some peach, some orange zest, a touch of petrol all leaving the palate refreshed for the next sip - ends with some chalk and a discernible touch of oil.  Could cellar a few years or more. Pair with any lightly seasoned seafood. 88 

    ANGEL'S GATE UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  13.0% D,  #001818  $12.95  (Tasted January 9, 2012)  CS

    A General listing.  My notes: Rated 92 on December 3rd, 2010. A light golden meets the eye and subtle citrus nose too light to discern specifically. A swirl gives a fragmented rim that recedes quickly shedding a few small tears. The first sip is smooth, tart, and has light flavours of white grapefruit, almond and a touch of sweetness coming away. The finish has a nice length continuing the flavours, a softness and an even tartness then becomes as dry as a light chalk. An interesting sipper with a clean chardonnay that builds character with each sip. Serve off chill - around 12oC. Cellaring the year has lost distinct fruit and nose - now off-peak. May be too light paired with lemon fettuccine and chicken parmigiana but I‘ll try (didn't work). 84

    SPRINGFIELD ESTATE  WILD YEAST CHARDONNAY 2006, Robertson, South Africa, 14.0% D, #694646  $24.95  (Tasted January 2, 2012)  CS

    A Vintages release on September 3, 2011.   My notes:  A mid golden with subtle butterscotch and banana aroma, slight nip as well. A swirl leaves a lacy rim widening its grasp until tiny tears slowly follow gravity - only fragments behind. Lemon, lime and salty caramel are the first on the buds, full flavoured for sure. A silky texture has noticeable warmth then ends soft, tangy still with a salt presence. A delicious sipper showing a strong South African terroir that may restrict its appeal. I`m enjoying it and will pair it with a Lucy Waverman tourtière recipe but using equal parts pork and turkey and a cayenne kick.  OK but missing some berry fruit for this recipe. Go for a Beaujolais... Now 5 years aged this could cellar another 5 - but drinking well now. 90

    AMANI CHARDONNAY 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.0% XD, #687442  $17.95  (Tasted January 2, 2012)  CS

    A Vintages release on November 26, 2011.  My notes:Now this has some politeness although still quite bright in the mouth. A soft mid gold colour and aromas needing time to develop into a subtle lemon and almond - around 12oC. The rim sticks immediately flowing long legs then quickly fragmenting into small islands. A touch of butterscotch, lemon, almond, a solid fresh tang followed by a warm dryness. Finish is short to middling although the warmth continues. I’ll try this with the tourtière comparing it with the Springfield (#694646 ) Wild Yeast Chardonnay. By itself not up to it with the tourtière...! Add some cranberry or loganberry and its OK. Was great with grilled Rainbow trout. Cellaring several years is likely - go yearly.  88
    JOSE MARIA DA FONSECA ALAMBRE MOSCATEL 2000, Setúbal, Portugal, 17.5% M, #357996 $13.95  (Retasted January 16, 2012)  CS
    My notes:  The Alambre 2000 was tasted after its release on January 8, 2005 and my notes then showed enthusiasm for this style.  However it's no longer available and this bottle is the last in my cellar. The tasting of July 2008 (95) said “... a rich, full-bodied dessert wine ... not as sweet as ice wine but rich in raisiny butterscotch and fig flavours at a very low price....” and in June 2010 (92) “... distinct aromas of meadow flowers and caramel, spicy sweet... ” This is now an exotic vivid peachy orange in the glass with not so prominent a nose at first then regaining orange zest and caramel aromas when slightly off chill - amazing!  The flavours and textures demand 100% attention: subtly sweet blended with orange and orange zest for a soft bite. The finish is exceedingly long as the fruit slowly declines leaving some sweetness and orange to enjoy - sipping is at foremost. Serve chilled after a fresh fruit dessert, not too acidic, or creamy cappuccino.  This will cellar forever and always be a beautiful sipper.  96  

    TAWSE 'SKETCHES OF NIAGARA' ROSÉ 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.0% XD, #172643  $14.95   (Tasted January 4, 2012)  CS

    My notes: Last tasted on May 2, 2011 and rated 87.
    A blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for full flavours, textures and a medium body. Still with a peachy pink colour, delightfully vivid in the glass and an aroma of crushed red cherries with some spice. A sip shows bright acid with white cherry juice front and centre in a extra dry medley. Xdry through a long finish to a not-quite sour cherry ending. The tart builds making this a refreshing summer sipper - I‘d add one ice cube and a maraschino to retain chill and offset tang. Match with a Bento box of mixed tempura shrimp and vegetables or a Chinese buffet. If cellared drink soon.  85

    EOS ESTATE  CENTRAL COAST CHARDONNAY 2008, Paso Robles, California, 13.5% D, #955914  $18.95   (Tasted January 7, 2012)  CS

    A Vintages release - no date given.  My notes:  The winery is now owned by Foley Family Wines. I’m amazed at the prices for EOS wine flights in their tasting room  (pictured) although there’s no product notes on the website to stimulate interest.  There’s a touch of green to a light golden colour and a firm rim sheds slow tears as it recedes without fragmenting. A herbaceous nose has a fresh yellow bean aroma with a mild tang. Serve well chilled and watch for minor changes as the wine warms… taste has a bland profile, no butter nor caramel (unoaked?), with a grassy crushed grapefruit seed flavour mildly acidic. Silky, clean and well balanced, dry. For me, not a sipper but acceptable with battered halibut and chips with malt vinegar and ketchup - likely would contribute more with grilled tilapia or cod. A drink now. 83

    DR. HERMANN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2006, Mosel, Germany, 9.0% M, #181917  $21.95  (Tasted January 27, 2012)  CS

    Released by Vintages on November 26, 2011 and rated 92 by Bruce Sanderson (Dec 15, 2008). My notes: The rating used by the LCBO is ‘part of history’ and whether it applies three years later will be interesting.  A lime green tint to a mid golden and aromas of green pea and lime - serve chilled. A swirl layers a fine film with a rim that quickly laces then slides unbroken down the glass. Sweet as it should be. Acids are balanced nicely with delicate lemon-lime pear and with a softness that makes this appealing as a solo sipper. From the crest of flavours at first sip to a long fruity ending this is true to style and grape. Lasting well since December 2008 and cellaring for several more years may bring out even more luscious textures. 93

    MURPHY-GOODE ‘THE FUMÉ’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Santa Rosa, California, 13.5% XD, #721092  $18.95  (Tasted January 22, 2012)  CS

    Release by Vintages on January 7, 2012 and rated 90 by Robert Parker  (February 2011).  My notes:  Not aerated: There’s a green tint to a mid-gold colour and the nose is a delicate citrus kiwi. A swirl leaves a lacy rim that recedes evenly leaving islands and shedding just a few slow tears. Tart and bright, a slight roundness and citrus kiwi flavours give appeal to the first sip. The finish sees the flavours of the first sip slowly decline ending with chalk dry citrus.  More of a buffet sipper or pair with fresh oysters, crab cakes, buttered lobster pieces or grilled salmon/trout. Cellaring may bring out more smoothness. 87  Aerated:  Tart on the first sip but without the sharpness of before. This puts the focus on the citrus and kiwi flavours and the smoothness. The matching of acid with fruit is amenable to solo sipping. The finish starts bright declining to the fruit then slowly shows some chalk, smoothness to the cheeks and mild fruit - now ‘unctuous‘. Would pair well with a buffet selection - including fresh oysters - or with grilled whitefish and crustaceans. 90

    FOSS MARAI EXTRA DRY PROSECCO VINO SPUMANTE NV, Valdobbiadene, Italy, 11.5% D, #729392  $18.95  (Tasted January 1, 2012)  CS
    A Vintages release on December 10, 2011.  My notes: Tasted several times - Aug 2008, Feb 2007, May 2006 -  enjoyed each time. August 2008 rating was an 88 with aromas of apple pie and butterscotch, spritzy with a long ‘unctuous’ finish. Now a dollar more. A pale golden colour and a burst of multisized bubbles then a continuous stream.   Exceptionally floral on first pour then settling to a subtle yeasty floral. A sip brings a fresh tartness with apple piecrust trailing off quickly to an oily mouthfeel, grassy then mineral flavours. The shortness of the finish is disappointing compared with the unctuous start - altho' continuous sipping helps. Have with salty crackers, bruschetta, or party sandwiches or just sip.  86

    BOTTEGA PETALO IL VINO DELL’AMORE MOSCATO NV,  Montebelluna, Italy, 6.5%, S, #588780   $13.05  (Tasted January 22, 2012)  CS

    A General listing. My notes: Tasted on April 7, 2007 and November 24, 2006 with pleasing results - “a full floral nose, a soft yeast, apple juice and orange blossoms… etc.” “A sweetness through the low alcohol”.  Today's tasting: There is a touch of floral to a honey and Royal Gala nose. On pouring there’s a burst of effervescence followed by streams of fine to medium sized bubbles quickly subsiding to the rim. Beautifully balanced sweetness, a gentle acid to waken the palate, and apple flavour fills the first sip then declining slowly to a delectable long finish. Serve chilled in a tulip glass retaining aromas to accompany the complementing flavours. Its succulence and lo alcohol makes this a pleasing quaffer. Went well with Clarkson Fish & Chips (a good size halibut thinly battered). Previous releases cellared well as this should. 91

    CODORNIU BRUT CLASICO SPARKLING NV, Penedès, Spain, 11.5% D, #215814  $12.75   (Tasted January 9, 2012)  CS

    A General listing. My notes:  A traditional cava blend of Xarello, Macabeo and Paralleda. No colour and minimal nose - perhaps a delicate yeast. The burst of bubbles is dramatic and leads to a light mousse followed by a continuous spritz - no ring at the rim tho’. Extra dry on the first sip and every one following then finishing quickly with a steely mouthfeel. This paired nicely with chicken parmigiana cutting any leftover frying oils. A drink now - not that interesting except for the price. 83 

    CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE RÉSERVE 'PAUL DELANE' NV, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, France, 12.0% D, #214981  $17.60  (Tasted tbd)  CS

    A General listing.  My notes: A blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay and Aligoté. A burst of bubbles of all sizes on pouring settling quickly to steady streams some remaining briefly at the rim. The colour is mid golden and the aroma is a pleasing lees and apple, somewhat subtle. Each sip brings a burst of softness that contrasts with a sour apple tartness. A delicate Pink Lady apple flavour ends with a chalky note - tart all the way through. Serve before dinner as a refresher or ‘amuse bouche‘. Serve during an afternoon to get the get-together going or serve with breakfast sausage or bacon on toast or waffles on the morning after.  88 

    'DE CHANCENY' CRÉMANT DE LOIRE ROSÉ BRUT NV, St Cyr en Bourg, France, 12.5% D, #211466   $16.70*  (Tasted January 6, 2012)  CS

    A General listing. My notes: *Reduced a dollar until Jan 1, 2012.  100% Cabernet Franc.  This has a bright peachy colour and pours with a burst of bubbles first effervescing to a mousseux profusion dispersing quickly to steady streams. The nose has a slight pie dough and subtle mineral aroma. A heavy but soft spritz accompanies flavours of drying tart apple pie quickly fading to a mineral dryness. Delightful as a sipper due to its acid bite and lively spritz. Except for its neutral flavour it paired well with buttered blueberry pancakes, light Maple syrup and Maple sausage pieces. Or serve well chilled at a baby or bridal shower. Cellaring for a short while should be okay.  88

    No comments: