Once in awhile, not often, I start to organize a tasting of Cellared In Canada (CIC) wines… but I’m so averse to the practice of importing offshore wines and blending them in volume production runs with local wines I quickly shrug it off. And as I think about it there are many more reasons: appearing to legitimize labelling a non-Canadian product as Canadian, encouraging something so detrimental to local vintners and to the international reputation of Canadian wines… and even more: the larger carbon footprint of tankered in juices, Niagara crops left on the vines supplanted by offshore juices. On a recent Niagara trip a vintner suggested CIC wines should at the very least be shelved in the imported section to lessen the inference of their being local. The LCBO does the exact opposite - shelving CICs with VQA wines perpetuating the illusion of legitimacy. When the motivation is profit, ethics come last - and please don’t tell me…‘but I like them! And they’re cheaper!’ If CICs weren’t around we’d get better value at a lower VQA price and would see our local industry thrive.
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Test the effectiveness of LCBO’s marketing of the two: banners of CELLARED IN CANADA glaring you in the face in outlets or the current goLOCAL campaign featuring the dulcet tones of Dalton McGuinty weaving a tale of wonder. Can you find the goLOCAL sign in the photo? and Why is the Premier the spokesperson for the LCBO?
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In Ontario, selling five times the quantity of VQA wines, the CIC label is a money maker for both the large bottling companies and the Ontario government. Consequently, there’s a strong lobby supporting CICs.
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For a discussion of CICs from three different perspectives: an International critic, a CIC bottler and an Ontario vintner, listen to CBC Radio One, Anna Maria Tremonti’s TheCURRENT with host Jan Wong, Part Two (September 25, 2009) . It’s worth the ten minutes.
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On a related note, Vincor has contributed their CIC wines, originally slated as Jackson-Triggs Esprit CICs for the 2010 Olympics, to be used as a source of fuel for the Olympic flame travelling across Canada - a more fitting use imho. Vincor will replace it with J-T Esprit VQA wines. Public opinion works! If you would like to show your opposition to CIC wines in Ontario one option is to join Facebook's Boycott “Cellared in Canada” Wines.
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I ask you to support Ontario small to medium sized vintners - our Monopoly doesn't.
Cheers, Ww
PS (Oct 14, 2009): The Ontario government appears to have got the message... taxes on blended CIC wines will be phased in next year. Always cynical I'll wait and see.
- Will local grape growers and wineries have reason for optimism in their market?
- Will results happen soon enough to avoid bankruptcies in the near term?
- Will consumers see any incentive to switch to VQA wines?
- Is increasing Ontario content to 40 percent (from 30) sufficient?
- When will misleading labelling and LCBO practices be resolved?
And this is Beppi Crosariol’s view (October 21, 2009).
Ww
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