July 2009 Wines: 20 Tasted of 20

Growing Dusk

Wines this month were purchased on spec., brought to the house by generous guests (g) or retrieved from the cellar.
Cheers, Ww

• Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2006, 95-3 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #050849 $19.95
• Vista Touriga Nacional Berias Red 2004, 94-3 -- G, Portugal, #613919 $13.20
• X & Y Cabernet Merlot 2004, 92-2 -- V, Margaret River, Australia, #107995 $17.95
• Montes Cherub Rosé of Syrah 2008, 90-2 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #037887 $16.95
• Feudo Montoni Catarratto 2007, 86 -- V, Sicily, Italy, #111252 $15.95
• Mouton Cadet Rouge 2004, 81 -- G, Bordeaux, France, #000943 $14.25 (g)
• Folonari Valpolicella Classico 2007, 79 -- G, Veneto, Italy, #000828 $13.95 (g)

• Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier 2006, 92-3 -- V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #045138 $13.95
• Grove Mill Pinot Gris 2007, 92-3 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #001693 $16.95
• LaCheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2007, 88-1 -- V, Loire, France, #525105 $14.95
• Murgo Etna Bianco 2007, 88-1 -- V, Sicily, Italy, #106310 $14.95
• Nederburg ‘The Winemaker’s Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008, 85 -- G, Paarl, S. Africa, #382713 $10.90
• Quinta Da Lixa Vinho Verde 2007, 85 -- V, Portugal, #973529 $15.95
• Matua Valley Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007, 82 -- G, Hawkes Bay, NZ, #619452 $15.95 (g)
• Robert’s Rock Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 2008, 82 -- G, Western Cape, S. Africa,  #501304 $7.95
• Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2008, 81 -- V, Alto Adige, Italy, #106450 $16.95 (g)
• Yellow Tail Chardonnay 2008, 80 -- G. South Eastern Australia, #627802 $11.45 (g)
• Wolf Blass Sauvignon Blanc 2008, 78 -- G, South Australia, #611475 $14.95 (g)
• Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay 2008, 78 -- G, South Eastern Australia, #142117 $9.95 (g)

•  Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto 2007, 88-2 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #045203 $12.95

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

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MURGO ETNA BIANCO 2007, Sicily, Italy, 12.5% XD, #106310 $14.95 (Tasted July 26, 2009)  CS

A Vintages release on January 31, 2009 described anonymously as “This estate's wines are grown on 25 hectares of pristine vineyards planted in the volcanic soils near Mt. Etna. This crisp white is a blend of local varieties Caricante (70%) and Catarratto (30%). Look for aromas of fresh citrus fruit and flowers on the nose. Dry, crisp and medium full-bodied, this zesty, lemony wine would match beautifully with the classic Sicilian dish, Pasta con le sarde.” My notes: The grapes in this blend are light in flavour but rich in subtleties. A light straw colour and a grassy citrus nose aren’t exceptional. The first sip penetrates without overwhelming the taste buds with flavour although a solid lemon, lime, pear mix. What I found surprising was the burst of textures, a seam of acid and light oiliness in the finish that carried the flavours while cleansing the palate so well. A drink now that would pair very nicely with most salty fish dishes and could cellar several years. 88

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FEUDO MONTONI CATARRATTO 2007, Sicily, Italy, 13.0% D, #111252 $15.95 (Tasted July 19, 2009)  CS

A Vintages release on February 28, 2009 rated 90/100 (Aug. 2008) and described by Antonio Galloni as “The 2007 Catarratto is made in rounder, softer style than the Grillo. Here the fruit is decidedly riper, as attractive notes of yellow peaches intermingled with subtle notes of earthiness and minerals emerge from the glass. This tasty white is best enjoyed over the near-term. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009.” My notes: A light straw colour and a delicate nose of mown hay. Light-bodied with a good astringency and flavours of green apple and mild grapefruit, tangy and refreshing to the palate. The finish is warm and a combination of extra dry, silky and light almost ripe citrus. Have with light pastas, poached egg on toast, green salads or grilled seafoods. A drink now. 86

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NEDERBURG ‘THE WINEMAKER’S RESERVE’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Paarl, S. Africa, 13.0% D, #382713 $10.90 (Tasted July 20, 2009)  CS

A General listing described anonymously as “Pale straw colour; citrusy fruit with spicy, herbal notes; light pear and passion fruit flavours, well balanced with a crisp, clean finish. Serve with roast pork, grilled striped bass or asparagus.” My notes: A light straw colour in the glass with aromas of honey, dry grass and lemon-lime hints. A light film on the bowl and nippy flavours of gooseberries not fully developed and leaving a refreshing citrus and dry clay on the tongue and throat. If there is any sweetness it is well masked by tartness - a quick alternative to dry lemonade on a hot day. Have with pork tenderloin with spicy apricot glaze, a ham slice well cloved or green-lipped mussels broiled in white wine. An economical drink now to a year. 85

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MONTES CHERUB ROSÉ OF SYRAH 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #037887 $16.95 (Tasted July 3, 2009)  CS

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A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 with description from http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/ dated Feb 6, 2009, “… The flavours are intense - ripe cherry and perfumed roses, dry and delicious… ” My notes: The 2007 vintage was tasted in May last year with a 86 rating. The 2008 has a deeper red cherry colour and a full aroma of sweet cherries and a spicy taint of crushed wild strawberries. Some natural sweetness holds the cherry/strawberry flavours in the foreground while an interesting spice comes forward in a long flavourful finish. Whether chilled or off chill this rosé is very cherry with a clean mouthfeel, a light hearted sipper that has the strength to pair with a glazed ham steak or pork chop and apple sauce, either with a raisin and rice dish. Cellaring for several years should be OK but a refreshing drink-now for a hot summer afternoon. 90

KAIKEN ULTRA MALBEC 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% D, #050849 $19.95 (Tasted July 24, 2009)  CS

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A Vintages release on June 20, 2009 given 91/100 by Michael Schechter (Wine Enthusiast, Dec 2008) describing it as “… shows power, purity, mineral, ripe fruit and well-applied oak. It's a generous wine with kirsch and raspberry parfait flavors. It almost makes it to creamy but by holding onto its core acidity it guards overall balance. Unforced but a little forceful; good for those who like a ripe, meaty red wine.” My notes: High energy here with a brand new label since the 2005 was tasted (90) in September 2007. ‘Full-bodied, bright, blackberry with soft oak tones… and a mild tobacco tartness makes this a pleasing sipper’ and ’A take anywhere red.’ The 2006 has the crushed ripe blackberry colour with soft oak scented blackberry nose. A swirl brings a firm film with slow tears and a first sip, a rush of tangy blackberry, full in the mouth and bursting with soft penetrating texture then finishing velvety with lasting fruit and a dry layer of fine tannin. A sipper to relax with or to linger over a prime rib or beef Wellington. This should cellar for many years developing more breadth and depth of character. 95

LACHETEAU LES LOGES VOUVRAY 2007, Loire, France, 13.0% MD, #525105 $14.95 (Tasted July 30, 2009)  CS

A Vintages release on June 6, 2009 described by the ‘Vintages panel’ on July 2008 as “Forward lemon drop, peach, pear and candle wax aromas -- aromas right out of the Chenin Blanc playbook -- dominate this well-made wine. Just off-dry with a nice tropical/pear flavour at the fore. The wine is balanced by a good seam of acidity. Give it 3-5 years in a cellar, or enjoy it tonight with mildly spiced shrimp dishes, or brie sprinkled on a spring salad.” My notes:I tasted the 2006 vintage, part of a May 2008 Vintages release rating it (80) so thought I‘d give this vintage a try. There’s a well polished pale golden colour and a just perceptible floral nose on first pouring. Light-bodied with a sweet edge to flavours of delicate granny smith and soft pear making the first sip appealing and a moderate finish fades softly. The tartness is there but doesn't intrude so overall this would complement light fish or scallop entrées. It paired well with bbq’d shrimp and pineapple skewers and has enough character to cellar for several years. 88

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QUINTA DA LIXA VINHO VERDE 2007, Portugal, 11.5% D, #973529 $15.95 (Tasted July 24, 2009)  CS

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A Vintages release on June 20, 2009 described anonymously as “Very delicate aromas, floral with tropical fruit, lime, pineapple. Creamy in the mouth, with lemonade and elegant fruit freshness, good citric crispness, all very attractive, light and persistent. Excellent price. (undated)” My notes: The tightest cork I’ve come across for a pale golden lightish medium-bodied, almost odourless white. Clay edged citrus - a combined lemon, lime and mild crab apple gives this the bite needed for buttery Mediterranean dishes. The finish refreshes the palate with a spritzy texture. Not a sipper but a different, extra dry white for Portuguese fare. 85

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MATUA VALLEY HAWKES BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 13.0% D, #619452 $15.95 (Tasted July 4, 2009)  CS
 

A General listing described anonymously as “Medium deep green colour; aromas and flavours of passion fruit, melon, gooseberry and pineapple, with grassy notes; dry, medium bodied, fresh, crisp and refreshing with lemon lime acidity; long and clean on the finish. Serve with goat cheese, light shellfish, especially steamed mussels and herved fish dishes.” My notes: Hawkes Bay is a long way from Marlborough and anonymous notes leave the author unscathed no matter how exaggerated the claims may be. This has a pale blond colour with an aroma of nettles and green gooseberries. The first sip has a close likeness to crushed green gooseberries with some roundness then shifts into a long acidic finish. I found it too astringent for a casual sipper, more of a meal white. Have with fresh oysters or pair with seafood dishes: bearded mussels in a spicy broth or a cheesy mushroom and tomato pasta. A questionable cellaring wine. 82

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X & Y CABERNET/MERLOT 2004, Margaret River, Australia, 14.5% D, #107995 $17.95 (Tasted July 7, 2009)  CS

Released by Vintages on July 4, 2009 described anonymously as “… This approachable fruit-driven wine is a soft, delectable and lip-smacking red to enjoy with Aussie 'sausage sizzlers' - barbecued sausages and onions served on white bread with tomato sauce.” My notes: The X&Y 2006 Chardonnay (#048561 @ $18.80) was released by Vintages in January 2008. Rating the chard 90 I thought this blend would also be interesting from Evans & Tate. The colour is a deep ruby. A swirl covers the glass well producing long slow tears. The nose is penetrating with an even mix of currants and berries, I’d say black- more than rasp-. There is a sharpness with the first sip that gives way to flavours of berries and leaving mostly fruit in a long warm finish. Full-bodied, a dry combination of tannin and acid and a good dollop of flavour makes this an interesting, even bold sipper. Have with seasoned grilled beef or lamb or chorizo sausage with a tomato pasta. This should cellar well up to five years. 92

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GROVE MILL PINOT GRIS 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% SC3, #001693 $16.95 (Retasted July 12, 2009)  CS

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My notes: Released by Vintages in March 2008 and tasted the following month with a 92 rating and the comment “… a luscious texture and fruity sweetness framing hay, apricot and a slight raisin…”. This bottle, the last, went beautifully with ham sliced from the bone, green beans and sweet potato frites. It would be great to see the 2008 sometime soon. There’s a slight peach hue to the mid golden colour, very appealing in the glass. The nose is a tangy apricot and wild flower introducing flavours of pear and honey on the first sip. The texture is soft rounded by a natural sweetness which is carried with the fruit through a long finish. Perhaps a tad less fruit and acid than the 2005 vintage but luscious nevertheless. Definitely Alsace style rather than Italian. Great as a sipper or paired with light summer luncheon fare, Chinese or Japanese, seafood. Cellaring well and should continue for a few more years yet. 92

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ROBERTS ROCK CHENIN BLANC CHARDONNAY 2008, Western Cape, S. Africa, 12.5% D, #501304 $7.95 (Tasted July 9, 2009)  CS

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A General listing described anonymously as “Pale lemon; dry and light-bodied with mineral, grass and gooseberry aromas and flavours; crisp and fresh on the finish, with a good balance of citrus and herbaceousness; hint of vanilla. Serve as an aperitif, with light seafood or patio fare.” My notes: I haven’t tried this label since October 2005 when for $7.45 the 2003 vintage was a ‘good value house white for the right entrée”. The LCBO description hasn’t changed since then so a tasting should remain the same, right? This is a light blond, clear in the glass. The nose shows slight nettles on a light apple scent, nothing distinct. The first sip gives the impression of faint apple with a citrus crispness with no sweetness and light-bodied. The finish starts mild, builds slowly, leaving some dry freshness and a touch of citrus. As a sipper it could use a boost, a slice of lime did it for me. Pair with lightly seasoned whitefish or mild poultry. One among many quaffable patio sippers. 82
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ANAKENA SINGLE VINEYARD VIOGNIER 2006, Rapel Valley, Chile, 14.5% D, #045138 $15.95 (Retasted July 9, 2009)  CS

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My notes: The 2007 vintage was tasted in July 2008 and enjoyed (87) - it was a tad lighter and $2 cheaper. The 2006 was released by Vintages and tasted in September 2007 with a 90 rating and the comment “a big value… a strong Viognier may not be for everyone.” Almost two years later the 2006 has retained its soft blond colour, the nose of wild flowers and light grassiness and a first sip that is full in the mouth giving a rush of tangy citrus, a taint of honey and melon. The finish is long lining the palate with tangy citrus. An interesting sipper for any crowd as well as going well with grilled and sliced chicken breast and green beans. Has a crisper texture than originally tasted and should cellar well for a few more years. 92

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VISTA TOURIGA NACIONAL BERIAS RED 2004, Portugal, 14.0% D, #613919 $13.20* (Retasted July 10, 2009)  CS

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My notes: Gord Stimmell gave this 89/100 (June 5, 2007), based on what system I don’t know, and I bought a dozen to lay down (*Hey, it was discounted to $10.60). It’s odd - my BH won’t touch it and I love it more each year. It’s full-bodied Old World with a solid fruit lining. The colour is a royal purple and texture is velvety smooth. The aromas take time to develop in the bowl and arrive with mostly soft plum and black cherry scents. The flavour is now elegant blueberry, black cherry and ripe blackberry. No mint this time… a soft vanilla to my buds and light tannin… and finishes long, smooth, well balanced ending with black fruit. Sip or pair with anything grilled and beefy/lamby - super! Could cellar for several more years. A wonderful bargain not to be repeated soon methinks! 94

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LINDEMANS BIN 65 CHARDONNAY 2008, South Eastern Australia, 13.0% D, #142117 $9.95 (Tasted July 15, 2009)  CS

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A General listing with and anonymous description: “Light yellow gold colour; floral with citrus and vanilla aromas; ripe fruit flavours; soft clean finish. Serve with grilled shrimps; lemon chicken; tuna steak.” My notes: The same description as the 2005 vintage tasted in June 2006 indicating, to me, this could be a commercial recipe wine. The colour is mid-gold. The nose is a pleasing honey grapefruit with sufficient tang for interest. The first sip shows some butter, a firm tang and indistinct flavours. Medium-bodied and finishing with a slight cream and balanced taste. Serving well chilled will provide a light freshness. Priced appropriately for a summer quaffer - better to add some soda for a spritzer - or an economical white to pair with grilled scallops, sea bass or trout. A drink now but not for me. 79

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ZENATO BARDOLINO CHIARETTO 2007, Veneto, Italy, 12.5% D, #045203 $12.95 (Retasted July 16, 2009)  CS

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My notes: I cellared a few of these following the last tasting (Ww89) in June last year. The ‘aromas of sweet cherries and a scent of roses’ is mostly gone but the colour is a vivacious salmon pink in the glass. A combination of dryness, sweet fruit and subtle roundness is still appealing on the first sip and builds evenly. The finish is tangy and dry with some leftover red cherries at the end. A sociable sipper from Corvina and Rondinella grapes for those wanting a slightly less sweet to go with a luncheon or buffet spread. Have with bruschetta or shaved Italian meats. An excellent value but no longer available. Cellaring another year is possible. 88

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WOLF BLASS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, South Australia, 11.5% D, #611475 $14.95 (Tasted July 29, 2009)  CS

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My notes: A General listing. Notes from my tasting of the 2007 vintage on September 1, 2008 summarized previous vintages as “The 2003 had a ‘lip-smacking tartness’ that had appeal. The 2005 vintage was considered ‘… not a value’. Both were priced at $14.95. Now at $16 could the 2007 vintage be much different?” and was rated 79. The 2008 has returned to the lower price and has the same blond colour with a scent of melon, hay and lemon grass. I’m not sure what is used for the body but the film is viscous with tears forming very slowly. The first sip has a tang balanced with melon and lemon-lime and a long finish continues the lemon grass theme, lip-smacking with minor semblance to sauvignon blanc. A medium- to full-bodied meal beverage to have with seafood, light pork or chicken. Not for cellaring. 78

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YELLOW TAIL CHARDONNAY 2008, South Eastern Australia, 13.0% D, #627802 $11.45 (Tasted July 26, 2009)  CS

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A General listing made by Casella Wines and described anonymously as “Deep yellow; Aromas of butterscotch, vanilla and baked apple fruit; Dry, medium to full bodied, with tropical notes, apple, pear fruit flavours; Medium length on crisp finish. Serve with fish dishes; seafood; poultry.” My notes: The 2006 tasted in August 2007 was discarded so I’ll see what my buds think of this vintage. Golden in the glass with a film that recedes quickly, no legs to speak of - a characteristic of a recipe white imho. A green pea and light lemon aroma and a first sip of blended flavours, some citrus, some melon and some Granny Smith. Taken with seafood or chicken dishes the whole is tolerable. Paired well with a broccoli, Portobello and onion quiche. As a sipper the flavour gives the palate a citrus layer then ends with an oily grassy smoothness. Medium-bodied, as a chardonnay, a unique taste neither oak influenced nor the crisp and clean of stainless. A drink now. 80

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FOLONARI VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2007, Veneto, Italy, 12.5% D, #000828 $13.95 (Tasted July 18, 2009)  CS

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A General listing described anonymously as “Ruby red colour; light cherry and spice aromas; light bodied with soft berry flavours. Serve with soft cheese, grilled chicken or burgers.” My notes: The colour of ripe black cherries in the glass and aroma, altho' faint, of earthy crushed cherries to the nose makes this a possible sipper. A swirl shows a thin film with minimum tears. On the light side of medium-bodied with well balanced acid and faint cherry flavours then finishing with a dry, bramble aspect. The finish made this a meal red rather than a sipper. Pairing with a light cheese pasta or bowl of minestrone could be possible but not inspiring - fades with anything more flavourful. Not a value.  79

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MOUTON CADET ROUGE 2004, Bordeaux, France, 12.5% D, #000943 $14.25 (Tasted July 21, 2009)  CS

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A General listing described anonymously as “Ruby/garnet colour; blackcurrant/black cherry nose; full fruit/cherry flavour; dry medium length finish. Serve with rack of lamb; roast beef or veal chops.” My notes: The colour is a ruby garnet and the nose has an almost imperceptible scent of earthy blackberry. A swirl brings a fine film on the glass with legs slow to form and a silky texture highlights tart flavours of currants and berries blended with fine tannins. A good portion of unripe or young fruit went into this meal red making it suitable for grilled sirloin or a T-bone, bbq’d back ribs or beef bourguignon. Other entrées deserve a more velvet texture and less acid. Not meant for cellaring, a drink now and not a value. 81

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SANTA MARGHERITA PINOT GRIGIO 2008, Alto Adige, Italy, 12.0% D, #106450 $16.95 (Retasted July 31, 2009)  CS

The most release by Vintages of the 2008 was on May 23, 2009 and was described anonymously as “Not only is this Vintages' #1 selling wine, it was also voted the most popular Pinot Grigio in Wine & Spirits' 20th Annual Restaurant Poll (April 2009). It sports aromas of fresh green apple, lime and peach that replay on the cleansing finish. Excellent as an aperitif, or serve it with antipasto or grilled vegetables.” My notes: I tasted this vintage in April this year and the 2006 last year with ratings of 82 and 85 resp. The 2005 was tasted in October 2006 with the comment ‘A drink now but not a value’. The 2008 nose is perfumed with apples and hay… a firm viscosity with slow tears and a first sip that is grassy, lemon zesty with a touch of lime added all carrying though to a long grassy finish. On the full side of medium-bodied giving the finish some smoothness. Prominently ‘savoury’ to match a rich seafood pasta or oregano crusted bbq’d chicken. A meal beverage not for cellaring. 81

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