Viva Vino: LCBO Promo 2009, 8 Tasted of 8

I’m not a fan of Portuguese or Spanish reds often finding a ‘traditional’ process has masked or taken away much of the natural fruit (imho). However, this is changing as many wineries update their equipment and viticulture practices and perhaps a tasting of current vintages may improve my impression. Whites, on the other hand, are different: seldom does another style of white go so well with shellfish platters and rice or paella accompaniments.


The LCBO glossy I received on Saturday with my G&M features wines from these two countries and, ignoring sherries and ports, includes fourteen wines: 3 whites, 1 rosé and 10 reds. All are below $15 with half below $10. The fourteen are in the list below. Several more Viva Vino products are featured in each of the Outlets. I’ve added some of these to the list and, if I weaken and purchase more from the Promo, I’ll highlight these also in bold then add a rating when tasted.


Except for those purchased the vintages shown are as illustrated in the Promo and prices asterisked are ‘sale’ prices although these can reflect a perceived LCBO practice of ratcheting up a regular price then reducing it for a Promo. Rod Phillips book, 500 Best Value Wines in the LCBO 2009, includes 26 wines from Portugal (11) and Spain (15) 3 of which made the glossy and his ratings are included below. I hope this is useful in some way. Cheers, Ww

• Osborne Dominio de Malpica Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, RP4, 89-2 -- G, Castilla, Spain, #032011, $14.95
• Red Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo Garnacha 2007, RP3½, 84 -- G, Navarra, Spain, #054007, $11.95*
• Montecillo Crianza La Rioja 2005, RP3½, 83 -- G, Rioja, Spain, #144493, $13.75*
• Sogrape Gazela Vinho Verde NV, 82 -- G, Gaia, Portugal, #141432, $7.95
• Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut NV, 80 -- G, Penèdes, Spain, #088591, $12.95*
• Osborne Solaz Merlot Tempranillo 2006, 75 -- G, Castilla, Spain, #074021, $11.05
• Osborne Solaz Shiraz Tempranillo 2006, 75 -- G, Castilla, Spain, #620922, $10.05
• Montecillo Blanco 2008, 74 -- G, Rioja, Spain, #072058, $9.95
• Tapena Garnacha 2007, G, Penèdes, Spain, #072553, $12.95*
• Castillo Monséran Viura 2007, G, Carinena, Spain, #073387, $9.00
• Castillo Monséran Garnacha 2007, G, Carinena, Spain, #073395, $9.00
• El Burro Shiraz 2006, G, Murcia, Spain, #070938, $12.90
• Aliança Foral Reserva 2007, G, Duoro, Portugal, # 239046, $8.50
• Loios Red 2007, G, Alentejano, Portugal, #089912, $9.95
• Sogrape Mateus Rosé NV, G, Douro, Portugal, #000166, $7.95*

(* - Price change, G - General listing, r-v - Rating-Value)

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TASTINGS:
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FREIXENET CORDON NEGRO BRUT NV, Penèdes, Spain, 12.0% D, #088591 $12.95* (Tasted April 8, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Pale straw colour; dry and medium-bodied with light yeasty and minerally notes; creamy mouthfeel with citrus fruit flavours and a crisp finish. Serve with appetizers, seafood or as an aperitif.” My notes: *Sale price - purchased previously for $12.35. Lots of large to tiny bubbles effervesce in the glass on pouring and continue to stream during sipping. The colour is a bright golden colour and sharp pastry dough aromas greet the nose. Some banana, some lemon lime ride on a seam of steely acid refreshing the palate with each sip. The finish has a stemminess that detracts from the fruit leaving the palate with only mineral and yeast. Have with fresh oysters or mix with an oz. of papaya juice for a morning-after tonic. I would not recommend this as a toasting beverage unless on a limited budget. A drink now. 80
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SOGRAPE GAZELA VINHO VERDE NV, Portugal, 9.0% D, #141432 $7.95* (Tasted April 24, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Pale yellow straw colour; light fruit aromas with citrus and mineral notes; dry, light bodied, with delicate fresh fruit flavours; tart and refreshing with a spritzy finish. Serve chilled as an aperitif, with shellfish or fried fish.” My notes: I haven’t had this in since January 2006 (Regular $8.05) and I don’t know why. It’s slightly spritzy, not the harsh bubbles but tiny and soft. Served well chilled this is a patio sipper for those wanting a delicate floral nose and light citrus flavours but low alcohol. Finishes quite dry with a touch of clay. Quaff with a slice of lime with or without tapas or stuffed mushroom caps. Not a white wine replacement for a meal. 82
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OSBORNE SOLAZ MERLOT TEMPRANILLO 2006, Spain, 13.5% D, #074021 $11.05 (Tasted April 11, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Deep ruby colour; aromas of strawberry, plum and oak spice; balanced acidity, and supple tannins along with flavours of cherry, plum and leather. This would pair excellently with a hearty baked stew.” My notes: The aroma is an equal mix of wood and fruit but faint. The colour is ruby with a dull cast. The first sip is medium-bodied with a slate texture to light cherry flavours, smooth and well balanced tannin and acid finishing with dull cherries followed by a drying mineral layer. This is not a solo sipper but more of a must-have-with-edibles red. Pair with grilled meats or with tomato sauced pastas or rice. Not for cellaring… and preferably not for sipping if you can avoid it. 75
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OSBORNE SOLAZ SHIRAZ TEMPRANILLO 2006, Rueda, Spain, 13.5% D, #620922 $10.05* (Tasted April 7, 2009)
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A General listing having the same description as previous vintages: “Medium red violet colour; aromas of cedar, oak/vanilla and ripe berry; dry, medium bodied, with flavours of cherry, blackberry, cedar and spice. Serve with roasted chicken sandwiches, Spanish jamon or serrano ham, or stew.” My notes: *Sale price - purchased previously for $10.00. The 2004 and 5 vintages were fresh from the start with ‘an earthy mix of cherry, berry and plum’ and a ’full-bodied dash of pepper and gulp of tannin’. The 2006 should be aired for thirty minutes for a flavour blend similar to previous vintages but much less prominent. Its ruby colour is a tad dull and aromas are nonexistent leaving the flavour to define the fruit: a weak mix of sandalwood, cherry and berry finishing somewhat herbal. Overall it’s light-bodied, dry with light but balanced acids, tannins and a mild spice making this a $7 sipper, ie. not a value. Don’t serve alone but have with mild shaved meats or mild cheeses. 75

MONTECILLO CRIANZA LA RIOJA 2005, Rioja, Spain, 12.5% D, #144493 $13.75* (Tasted April 19, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Medium ruby red colour; raspberry, sweet cherry, violet, lavander and cassis fruit aromas with hints of vanilla and oak; dry, medium-full bodied, good acidity with ripe plum, cherry, cedar and leather notes on the palate; long, smooth finish. Serve with rabbit stew, rack of lamb, sausage, stews, pork roasts or paella.” My notes: An Osborne label - the 2001 vintage was previously purchased for $14.95 in December 2005 This has a deep ruby and an aroma of stewed cherries tinged with light oak. - not much though. A swirl brings a thin film and slow tears. Then a sip shows some finesse combining soft berries with fine tannins, a mild spice and acid, all nicely balanced, light- to medium-bodied and smooth when aired thirty minutes. The finish is fairly short starting with meagre flavours and declining from there ending cleanly. An ambiguous dry sipper - take it or leave it. Would pair well with tomato side dishes and sliced beef or, better, pork tenderloin with a smooth gravy. Not for cellaring - a drink now. 83
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MONTECILLO BLANCO 2008, Rioja, Spain, 12.0% D, #072058 $9.95 (Tasted April 6, 2009)
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A General listing to be served chilled with grilled fish, seared scallops or pasta.” My notes:
An Osborne label. Made from Viura grapes this has a very light straw colour with a fresh faint citrus fragrance preluding flavours of mild melon and citrus. The minimal fruit fades leaving a texture and flavour of crushed stems and an acidic reminder - not a sipper. A white looking for a reason. Have with baked octopus or breaded shrimp, mussels in a delicate cream sauce, cold chicken sliced on greens or, perhaps, quaff with tapas. For me, not a drink now and not for cellaring. 74
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RED GUITAR OLD VINE TEMPRANILLO GARNACHA 2007, Navarra, Spain, 14.0% D, #054007 $11.95* (Tasted April 6, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Deep ruby colour; complex developing aromas of blackcurrant, rich concentrated raspberry, sweet spice, olive oil, spices and dried fruits; dry, medium to full bodied, with developing, complex flavours of sweet ripe berry fruit, dried fruits, game and spice; drinking well now, with potential to age for several years. Serve with a variety of barbecued meats, including lamb, pork, ribs and sausages.” My notes: A blend of 55% Tempranillo and 45% Garnacha gives this a rich ruby colour and a bouquet, if any, of dull blackberry. This must be decanted or let breathe for an hour before serving to settle an odd Brett-like flavour. There’s just a hint of sweetness to the first sip and a light jammy mix of berry fruit blended with prunes. Nicely tart, medium-bodied, some fine tannins and a long dried berry finish. A well made red to have with spicy rice dishes or crock pot stews. A drink now that may develop a broader structure if cellared for up to four years. Priced right. 84
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OSBORNE DOMINIO DE MALPICA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004, Castilla, Spain, 13.5% D, #032011 $14.95 (Tasted April 6, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Dense dark red in colour; ripe black cherry, sandalwood and spicy aromas; full-bodied with flavours of oak spice and lots of acidity followed by a spicy finish. Serve with grilled red meats.” My notes: This has a rich ruby colour with fairly fast legs and lots of them, a miniscule fragrance of spicy black currants and from the first sip a light tannic dryness and mild acid seam. A full-ish medium-body with a velvet texture and flavours of equal black currants and blackberries. Very appealing as a sipper with a long finish and a light mocha tone to the fruit. Sirloin stews, lamb shank, braised ribs, hot Italian sausage or chorizo minestrone soups could accompany this red. Not bold but a very sociable sipper. I believe it could cellar for several years - say six - for benefit. 89