3 Soaves: Italy

ANSELMI SAN VINCENZO 2002 and 2003, Veneto, Italy, 12.8%, #948158 $14.95 and $15.95

My notes: David Lawraison rated the 2002 an 89. Light straw colour with almost imperceptible floral nose, this drinks full, for a white, with initial sweetness yielding to balanced refreshing acids. Apple, banana, and fresh pear combine for a very pleasant finish lasting well into the next sip. Vintages released the 2002 in October 23, 2004 and the 2003 March 5, 2005. The 2003 was rated 88 by James Suckling (Wine Spectator) - the difference is noticeable in all aspects. Still light straw but a slight chardonnay floral comes through. (Chardonnay is added by Anselmi so it is not a true 'Soave' which is a blend of garganega and trebbiano). Superclean on the palate with a slight tannin. More pear than apple and no banana. Medium-bodied with a shorter and flatter finish compared to the previous vintage. Both go well with chicken and pasta, grilled cod, green salad with light dressing and salmon pieces.

PIEROPAN SOAVE CLASSICO 2003, Soave, Italy, 12.0%, #946848 $19.95

Gambero Rosso Italian Wines writes "Soave owes a great deal to Pieropan. ... his wines were a reliable benchmark .... and are still absolutely impeccable." My notes: A light straw colour with no perceptible nose. Medium-bodied, a 'steely' smoothness but no predominant fruit flavour - perhaps a light apple without bright acid. No length but nothing unpleasant. If you're looking for fruit look elsewhere. Likely serve with raw oysters or cream pasta with mussels. Vintages release November 20, 2004.

BOLLA SOAVE CLASSICO 2000, Veneto, Italy, 12.0%, #017640 $9.95 (current price is $11.95)

My notes: Golden straw colour; light apricot nose; light- bodied with a flat impression of citrus flavours disappearing quickly on the palate. There are lower priced Soaves if an uninteresting but unobjectionable aperitif is needed, however, this may have been cellared too long (from December 2001). This is a General listing. Serve with finger foods or shellfish, or skip.