Customers Count Too

There's no such thing as 'Fair'!

A Senior executive responded to a statement I made some years ago during a presentation. I was rationalizing a request for funding for a particularly complex, therefore challenging, piece of development work. My somewhat offhand comment was ‘Doesn’t That Seem FAIR?’. I learned that day that FAIR is not a Business rationale. It’s not even relevant. Her response was “FAIR went out in Grade Three“.

As in Toronto this month, when the garbage workers et al strike for more concessions there is no question of What‘s FAIR. Being FAIR means equity with others - an equilibrium or ‘give and take’ as part of surrounding realities. Unions want to lead regardless… get the best pay, the best pensions, medical plans and sick days - and if you’re not sick accumulate the days. Often it comes down to how much communities can stand, in this case, in stench. Inconveniences can be endured. Stench gets into the nostrils, into the kitchens, family and bedrooms of every local residence. It creates hazards for children, seniors and detracts from a world class City.

The solution isn’t one of fairness. It’s a question of where does the money come from? The unpopular choice, for politicians, is to take from other needy pockets or to raise taxes. In the case of garbage workers et al it’s a Municipal not a Provincial problem. Accountability is open for all to see. City Hall is accountable to thousands of stench smellers for a solution.

When the LCBO threatens strike it becomes a Provincial problem. Even one day’s sales puts so much revenue into Queens Park coffers it’s unconscionable, for politicians, to have employees leave their posts. However, Accountability is a more difficult thread to unweave. As Ontarians saw with eHealth, Accountability becomes a public focus only when extreme overruns are exposed - usually by the media and not by the Ministries responsible. There are no ‘stench smellers’, ie. no public overseers of the LCBO.

The general public expects some Fairness in the LCBO response not realizing we’re long past Grade three. A solution in this case is Expediency. Solve the problem and get on with reaping revenues. Damn the torpedoes - resolve it! No one will notice a few percentage points on the price of a bottle of liquor, wine or beer - and if they do, they can‘t do anything anyway. After all, liquor is a luxury. Let the Poor Drink Plonk!

I wonder… If all Ontarians abstained from buying any alcoholic beverage for a week would it send a message? Let’s have an ‘Abstinence Week’ - but that‘s not the emphasis is it? Perhaps it should be called, ‘Stop the Money Grab‘ week or 'Customers Count Too' week. You get the idea.

My Opinion, Ww

Note: The stated opinions do not intend to criticize or support any Union negotiating tactic or settlement. They intend to highlight the level of visible accountability in two situations, one a municipal and one a provincial.

July 2009 Wines: 5 Tasted of 13

Wines this month were purchased on spec., brought to the house by generous guests (g) or brought from the cellar for retasting.
Cheers, Ww

• Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier 2006, Ww92 -- V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #045138 $13.95
• X & Y Cabernet Merlot 2004, Ww92 -- V, Margaret River, Australia, #107995 $17.95
• Montes Cherub Rosé of Syrah 2008, Ww90 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #037887 $16.95
• Matua Valley Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Ww80 -- G, Hawkes Bay, NZ, #619452 $15.95 (g)
• Robert’s Rock Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 2008, Ww79 -- G, Western Cape, S. Africa, #501304 $7.95
• Murgo Etna Bianco 2007, Ww -- V, Sicily, Italy, #106310 $14.95
• Feudo Montoni Catarratto 2007, Ww -- V, Sicily, Italy, #111252 $15.95
• Nederburg ‘The Winemaker’s Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Ww -- G, Paarl, S. Africa, #382713 $10.90
• Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2006, Ww -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #050849 $19.95
• LaCheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2007, Ww -- V, Loire, France, #525105 $14.95
• Quinta Da Lixa Vinho Verde 2007, Ww -- V, Portugal, #973529 $15.95
• Château de Maligny le Carré de César Chablis 2007, Ww -- V, Burgundy, France, #708339 $22.95
• Grove Mill Pinot Gris 2007, Ww -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #001693 $16.95

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other)

TASTINGS:

MURGO ETNA BIANCO 2007, Sicily, Italy, 12.5% XD, #106310 $14.95 (Tasted tbd)

A Vintages release on January 31, 2009 described anonymously as “This estate's wines are grown on 25 hectares of pristine vineyards planted in the volcanic soils near Mt. Etna. This crisp white is a blend of local varieties Caricante (70%) and Catarratto (30%). Look for aromas of fresh citrus fruit and flowers on the nose. Dry, crisp and medium full-bodied, this zesty, lemony wine would match beautifully with the classic Sicilian dish, Pasta con le sarde.” My notes:

FEUDO MONTONI CATARRATTO 2007, Sicily, Italy, 13.0% D, #111252 $15.95 (Tasted tbd)

A Vintages release on February 28, 2009 rated 90/100 (Aug. 2008) and described by Antonio Galloni as “The 2007 Catarratto is made in rounder, softer style than the Grillo. Here the fruit is decidedly riper, as attractive notes of yellow peaches intermingled with subtle notes of earthiness and minerals emerge from the glass. This tasty white is best enjoyed over the near-term. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009.” My notes:

NEDERBURG ‘THE WINEMAKER’S RESERVE’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Paarl, S. Africa, 13.0% D, #382713 $10.90 (Tasted tbd)

A General listing described anonymously as “Pale straw colour; citrusy fruit with spicy, herbal notes; light pear and passion fruit flavours, well balanced with a crisp, clean finish. Serve with roast pork, grilled striped bass or asparagus.” My notes:

MONTES CHERUB ROSÉ OF SYRAH 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #037887 $16.95 (Tasted July 3, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 with description from http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/ dated Feb 6, 2009, “… The flavours are intense - ripe cherry and perfumed roses, dry and delicious… ” My notes: The 2007 vintage was tasted in May last year with a Ww86 rating. The 2008 has a deeper red cherry colour and a full aroma of sweet cherries and a spicy taint of crushed wild strawberries. Some natural sweetness holds the cherry/strawberry flavours in the foreground while an interesting spice comes forward in a long flavourful finish. Whether chilled or off chill this rosé is very cherry with a clean mouthfeel, a light hearted sipper that has the strength to pair with a glazed ham steak or pork chop and apple sauce, either with a raisin and rice dish. Cellaring for several years should be OK but a refreshing drink-now for a hot summer afternoon. Ww90

KAIKEN ULTRA MALBEC 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% D, #050849 $19.95 (Tasted tbd)

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A Vintages release on June 20, 2009 given 91/100 by Michael Schechter (Wine Enthusiast, Dec 2008) describing it as “… shows power, purity, mineral, ripe fruit and well-applied oak. It's a generous wine with kirsch and raspberry parfait flavors. It almost makes it to creamy but by holding onto its core acidity it guards overall balance. Unforced but a little forceful; good for those who like a ripe, meaty red wine.” My notes: High energy here with a brand new label since the 2005 was tasted and rated Ww90 in September 2007. Full-bodied, bright, blackberry with soft oak tones (not 'very') and a mild tobacco tartness makes this a pleasing sipper’ and ’A take anywhere red.’

LACHETEAU LES LOGES VOUVRAY 2007, Loire, France, 13.0% MD, #525105 $14.95 (Tasted tbd)

A Vintages release on June 6, 2009 described by the ‘Vintages panel’ on July 2008 as “Forward lemon drop, peach, pear and candle wax aromas -- aromas right out of the Chenin Blanc playbook -- dominate this well-made wine. Just off-dry with a nice tropical/pear flavour at the fore. The wine is balanced by a good seam of acidity. Give it 3-5 years in a cellar, or enjoy it tonight with mildly spiced shrimp dishes, or brie sprinkled on a spring salad.” My notes: I tasted the 2006 vintage, part of a May 2008 Vintages release rating it (Ww80) so thought I‘d give this vintage a try.

QUINTA DA LIXA VINHO VERDE 2007, Portugal, 11.5% D, #973529 $15.95 (Tasted tbd)

A Vintages release on June 20, 2009 described anonymously as “Very delicate aromas, floral with tropical fruit, lime, pineapple. Creamy in the mouth, with lemonade and elegant fruit freshness, good citric crispness, all very attractive, light and persistent. Excellent price.(undated)” My notes:

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MATUA VALLEY HAWKES BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 13.0% D, #619452 $15.95 (Tasted July 4, 2009)

A General listing described anonymously as “Medium deep green colour; aromas and flavours of passion fruit, melon, gooseberry and pineapple, with grassy notes; dry, medium bodied, fresh, crisp and refreshing with lemon lime acidity; long and clean on the finish. Serve with goat cheese, light shellfish, especially steamed mussels and herved fish dishes.” My notes: Hawkes Bay is a long way from Marlborough and anonymous notes leave the author unscathed no matter how exaggerated the claims may be. This has a pale blond colour with an aroma of nettles and green gooseberries. The first sip has a close likeness to crushed green gooseberries with some roundness then shifts into a long acidic finish. Too astringent as a casual sipper, more of a meal white. Have with fresh oysters or pair with seafood dishes: bearded mussels in a spicy broth or a cheesy mushroom and tomato pasta. Not for cellaring. Ww80

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CHÂTEAU DE MALIGNY LE CARRÉ DE CÉSAR CHABLIS 2007, Burgundy, France, 12.5% XD, #708339 $22.95 (Tasted tbd)

Vintages released this vintage on March 28 this year with Vintages Panel description of July 2008 “… vineyards are concentrated in the commune of Maligny itself, with the balance spread over Chablis. Le Carré de César is made with fruit from a particular plot of vines that has consistently produced outstanding wines. Pale straw with typical layers of citrus zest, apple, chalk and a noticeable minerality on the nose and palate. Dry, crisp and very refreshing, with light-to-medium body, medium length and a finely balanced finish.” My notes:

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X & Y CABERNET/MERLOT 2004, Margaret River, Australia, 14.5% D, #107995 $17.95 (Tasted July 7, 2009)

Released by Vintages on July 4, 2009 described anonymously as “… This approachable fruit-driven wine is a soft, delectable and lip-smacking red to enjoy with Aussie 'sausage sizzlers' - barbecued sausages and onions served on white bread with tomato sauce.” My notes: The X&Y 2006 Chardonnay (#048561 @ $18.80) was released by Vintages in January 2008. Rating the chard Ww90 I thought this blend would also be interesting from Evans & Tate. The colour is a deep ruby. A swirl covers the glass well producing long slow tears. The nose is penetrating with an even mix of currants and berries, I’d say black- more than rasp-. There is a sharpness with the first sip that gives way to flavours of berries and leaving mostly fruit in a long warm finish. Full-bodied, a dry combination of tannin and acid and a good dollop of flavour makes this an interesting, even bold sipper. Have with seasoned grilled beef or lamb or chorizo sausage with a tomato pasta. This should cellar well up to five years. Ww92

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GROVE MILL PINOT GRIS 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% SC3, #001693 $16.95 (Retasted tbd)

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My notes: Released by Vintages in March 2008 and tasted the following month with a rating of Ww92 and the comment “… a luscious texture and fruity sweetness framing hay, apricot and a slight raisin…”.

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ROBERTS ROCK CHENIN BLANC CHARDONNAY 2008, Western Cape, S. Africa, 12.5% D, #501304 $7.95 (Tasted July 9, 2009)

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A General listing described anonymously as “Pale lemon; dry and light-bodied with mineral, grass and gooseberry aromas and flavours; crisp and fresh on the finish, with a good balance of citrus and herbaceousness; hint of vanilla. Serve as an aperitif, with light seafood or patio fare.” My notes: I haven’t tried this label since October 2005 when for $7.45 the 2003 vintage was a ‘good value house white for the right entrée”. The LCBO description hasn’t changed since then so a tasting should remain the same, right? This is a light blond, clear in the glass. The nose shows slight nettles on a light apple scent, nothing distinct. The first sip gives the impression of faint apple with a citrus crispness with no sweetness and light-bodied. The finish starts mild, builds slowly, leaving some dry freshness and a touch of citrus. As a sipper it could use a boost, a slice of lime did it for me. Pair with lightly seasoned whitefish or mild poultry. One among many quaffable plonks. Ww79
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ANAKENA SINGLE VINEYARD VIOGNIER 2006, Rapel Valley, Chile, 14.5% D, #045138 $15.95 (Retasted July 9, 2009)

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My notes: The 2007 vintage was tasted in July 2008 and enjoyed (Ww87) - it was a tad lighter and $2 cheaper. The 2006 was released by Vintages and tasted in September 2007 with a Ww90 rating and the comment “a big value… a strong Viognier may not be for everyone.” Almost two years later the 2006 has retained its soft blond colour, the nose of wild flowers and light grassiness and a first sip that is full in the mouth giving a rush of tangy citrus, a taint of honey and melon. The finish is long lining the palate with tangy citrus. An interesting sipper for any crowd as well as going well with grilled and sliced chicken breast and green beans. Has a crisper texture than originally tasted and should cellar well for a few more years. Ww92

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Maturity and Cellaring Time

Each wine in a Vintages Release includes a description that comes from a variety of sources: reviewers local to the wine, our own local reviewers, distributors or, if nothing else is available, an anonymous panel or wine tabloid. Only a few of the notes carry much currency in my view so, unless the reference is a current review from The Wine Spectator, I tend to ignore them - altho‘ I include most of the descriptions as part of my blog entries - and I haven’t paid much attention to the symbol included with each wine description. Vintages uses three: ‘drink‘, ‘drinkhold’ and ‘hold‘ if I go by their .gif names. The specific meanings are likely somewhere in a catalogue or webpage but I haven’t found them yet.

Except for Rod Phillips’ WinePointer I haven’t seen any similar symbols used by other reviewers. Nor, if a rating system is used, no mention of points attributed to either Cellaring Potential or Maturity, one being a projection of time taken and likelihood to improve and the latter being the here and now. Why I even look for these indicators is likely the notion ingrained as a member of the Opimian Wine Society.

My opinion is that every wine review to be complete should indicate somehow a wine’s maturity and cellaring potential. When an ‘Opimian’ - I was well past my fifteenth year before leaving - I stuck labels on each bottle repositioning drinkables as they came to maturity. The Opimian symbols (see inset, sorry for the fuzz) cover everything: Current Maturity of a wine, Current drinkability, a Projection of Time to Cellar, and How long a wine is likely to be at peak. The symbols are easily understood and well thought out.

Since going on my own I haven’t been as meticulous - I no longer label. I simply locate newly bought wines in different sections of the wine racks labelled: Drink Now(DN), Lay Down 2Yrs(L2), Lay Down Longterm(LD), Sparklers, Desserts, For Tasting(T). Whites, rosés and reds are kept separate so I can balance purchases with our consumption. Sometimes a bottle gets forgotten or prematurely put on the dinner table but in a small cellar (1000 btls) nothing really gets lost that often nor for long. This blog lets me keep track of the history of wines bought and tasted and a quick search using the LCBO SKU, a Label or Winery leads me to my original notes.

There seems to be uncertainty in most approaches to gauging Maturity and Cellaring Time. They don’t follow any mathematical rules depending more on prior experience and a knowledge of what to look for in a tasting of a particular wine. Both could be tied closely to individual tastes. Cellaring Time is a thumbsuck and has a dependency on where a wine is to be stored. Storing at a consistent 57F and controlled humidity allows for longer cellaring than in a basement closet at 67F and seasonal/home heating humidity changes for instance. Does a wine have enough fruit, tannin, acid? Does it have an appropriate balance of these elements and will this balance change such that the wine improves or fades over time turning today's attributes into delights or discards? It comes down to assessing and predicting how a complex liquid will evolve. I try to include my prediction of Drinkability and Cellaring Time verbally in every My notes… then update it whenever I Retaste.
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My opinion, Ww

June 2009 Wines: 20 Tasted of 20

Some wines are bought on spec. and some are brought to the house by kind guests (g).
Cheers, Ww

• Chalten Gran Seleccion Malbec 2007, Ww92 -- V, Neuquén, Patagonia, Argentina, #114215 $18.95
• Neudorf 'Tom’s Block' Pinot Noir 2007, Ww92 -- V, Nelson, NZ, #120790 $26.95
• Ferngrove Shiraz 2007, Ww92 -- V, Western Australia, #090282 $16.95
• Pikes ‘The Assemblage’ Shiraz/Mourvedre/Grenache 2006, Ww91 -- V, Clare Valley, Australia, #014332 $18.95
• Quails' Gate Chardonnay 2006 VQA Okanagan Valley, Ww90 -- V, BC, #377770 $19.95
• Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Ww90 -- V, Leyda Valley, Chile, #077693 $20.95
• Truchard Zinfandel Napa Valley 2003, Ww90 -- V, Carneros, USA, #054858 $18.95
• Brancott Reserve Pinot Noir 2006, Ww90 -- V, Central Otago, NZ, #093708 $29.95
• Chakana ‘Andean Wines’ Malbec 2007, Ww90 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #003509 $13.95
• Brancott Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Ww89 -- G, Marlborough, NZ, #129528 $14.95
• Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Ww89 -- G, Australia, #251876 $16.45 (g)
• Ajello MaJus Grillo/Catarratto 2007, Ww89 -- V, Sicily, Italy, #670844 $16.95
• Temple Bruer Grenache/Shiraz/Viognier 2005, Ww88 -- V, Longhorne Creek, Australia, #090290 $17.95
• Sogrape Gazella Rosé NV, Ww84 -- G, Beiras, Portugal, #125757 $8.95
• Cave Spring Rosé 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww82 -- G, Jordan, Canada, #295006 $12.95
• Anakena Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2008, Ww81 -- G, Rapel Valley, Chile, #122432 $10.95
• J.P. Chenet Classic Collection Cinsault Grenache Rosé 2008, Ww80 -- G, Pays d’Oc, France, #125815 $9.95
• Cono Sur Merlot Rosé 2008, Ww80 -- G, Chile, #122481 $9.95
• Chakana ‘Andean Wines’ Malbec 2008, Ww77 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #003509 $13.95
• Lancers Rosé NV, Ww75 -- G, Dao, Portugal, #078931 $7.95

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other)

TASTINGS:

BRANCOTT MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 12.5% D, #129528 $14.95 (Tasted June 1, 2009)

A General listing described anonymously as “Pale straw yellow colour; intense aromas of grass, pear, gooseberry, fresh herbs, with notes of passion fruit; dry, light and clean palate with a zesty, fresh, pink grapefruit, lime; mouth-watering finish. Serve with hors d'oeuvres, oysters, goat cheese dishes, or poached salmon topped with steamed asparagus and hollandaise sauce.” My notes: A delicate blond in the glass with an equally delicate nose of gooseberry, nettles and lime - quite appealing. The first sip is appealing as well, with a gentle nip, a light roundness and flavours of gentle gooseberry, lime and cream. The nip carries well into the long flavourful finish. An uncomplicated drink now that should cellar up to two years. Also a sociable, light-bodied sipper or have with seafoods or asparagus and cilantro soup with shrimp on greens. Ww89

BRANCOTT RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2006, Central Otago, NZ, 13.0% D, #093708 $29.95 (Tasted June 4, 2009)

Release by Vintages on April 11, 2009 described by the Vintages panel (Feb 2009) as “… this Pinot Noir is medium ruby in colour: actually quite deeply hued for the variety. A bouquet of sweet raspberry, ripe cherry, and freshly tilled earth floods the senses, leading to aroma replays on the smooth, silky-textured palate. Great length and balance add to the wine's considerable charms.” My notes: There is a slate tone to the mid ruby colour and a dark berry nose, a touch sweat and tang to the nostrils. Fast legs on a swirl and the first sip shows a some silk, a balance of tang, tannin and blended fruit mostly of bright red currants. The long finish starts with the bright red currant start, is smooth, and leads to a continuous light tang with some youthfulness. Cellaring for a few years could develop more silkiness and some interesting spice and fruit medleys. If you like a youthful pinot noir it’s a drink now but I’d recommend waiting for full value. Ww90

CHALTEN GRAN SELECCIÓN MALBEC 2007, Neuquén, Patagonia, Argentina, 14.5% XD, #114215 $18.95 (Tasted June 15, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 described anonymously as “... [Pascal] Marchand works with Chilean winemaker Pablo Herra and Argentinean Ricardo González to craft superb wines like this ripe-and-ready Malbec. Packed with mixed berry, cherry, leather and vanilla aromas and flavours, this red will make a natural partner for roasted game meats or barbecued beef over the next 2-3 years. “ My notes: Purple hued with a firm film and slow tears on the glass laying an impression of full-bodied and silky. A black currant nose with vanilla hints precedes soft tannins, a drying tartness and a ripe black currant and berry flavour, skins and all. The finish balances a fading black fruit against an increasing smooth, dry tartness - perhaps not as ‘hot‘ as the alcohol level would suggest. A bold sipper with lots of flavour appeal and should cellar well up to four years. Have with any grilled or barbecued meats… ribs especially. Ww92

FERNGROVE SHIRAZ 2007, Western Australia, 14.5% D, #090282 $16.95 (Tasted June 11, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 described and rated 94/100 by Australian critic James Halliday (June 2008) as “Deep crimson-purple; highly aromatic and saturated with dark plum, blackberry and an array of spices, all making significant inputs to a medium- to full-bodied wine which will age superbly. Great value.” My notes: Decant or air for thirty minutes. The light earthy, blackberry nose suggests old world and the slow tears says medium- to full-body confirmed by the first sip. There is a velvety texture to dark fruit flavours, fine tannins and not quite teeth cleaning acids. The finish is long, hot and bright. A bold sipper not for everyone and better left for several years to mellow and soften its character. If you persist have with well seasoned beef tenderloin, pepper steak or Texas chili. Ww92

NEUDORF TOM'S BLOCK PINOT NOIR 2007, Nelson, NZ, 14.0% D, #120790 $26.95 (Tasted June 10, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 described by NZ critic Sue Courtney (Feb 4, 2009) as “Dark garnet with a fading edge. Smoky, savoury and spicy on the nose and quite sweet in the palate with the abundant cherry and strawberry fruit. Medium-bodied in style, it has a spicy backbone with a silky smooth texture and a savoury finish.” My notes: One of almost two dozen wineries in Nelson on NZ’s South Island and west of the better known Marlborough region. We last visited in 2003 so I was curious as to how their pinot noir was progressing. The colour is a slate tinged ruby and a swirl leaves slow tears on the bowl. Smoky black cherry, soft and light, precedes a silky first sip of delicate cherry, light liquorice and earth tones flavouring the mouth and finishing with a savoury medley of dark fruit preserves. The silk makes this a delectable sipper or save for a grilled main course. And it should cellar well for a few years perhaps emphasizing the spicy side of its character. Ww92

QUAILS' GATE CHARDONNAY 2006 VQA Okanagan Valley, BC, 14.0% D, #377770 $19.95 (Tasted June 15, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 described anonymously as “Considering how warm the Okanagan can be, this crisp, cool and green apple-fresh Chardonnay suggests a much more moderate climate. The refreshing nature is very appealing, especially with the addition of grapefruit, melon and honey aromas and flavours. Enjoy this fine wine with poached wild-caught Pacific salmon with a lemon-dill sauce.” My notes: BC wines seldom cross over the totalitarian restrictions of the Ontario border so this was an unexpected purchase. This has a soft blond colour and a nose full of wild honey, sweet pea and spice. There’s lots of spice and tang in the first sip, balanced with a natural sweet layer making this a refreshing sipper for a summer day. A long and warm finish carries the flavours well ending with the spice. It paired well with grilled Atlantic salmon, brown rice and snap peas and should with seafood pastas or Asian fare. Drink now - up to two years cellaring could add more depth. Ww90

PIKES 'THE ASSEMBLAGE' SHIRAZ/ MOURVEDRE/GRENACHE 2006, Clare Valley, Australia, 14.5% XD, #014332 $18.95 (Retasted June 1, 2009)

My notes: Last September this was rated Ww92 with the note “… the finish is forever, dry, full of smoky berries and currants….” Now a half year later the sweetness is gone, perhaps my buds now, firmer acids with the flavour of dark berries and faint currants. The nose has a tang to mostly ripe blackberries. A fuller medium-bodied, bold sipper and a good red meat companion - just OK with burgers but a steak or rack of rosemary’d lamb would be a better match. Still with a long spicy finish full of smoky berries. This is cellaring well and has developed the start of a velvet texture. Ww91

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AJELLO MAJUS GRILLO/CATARRATTO 2007, Sicily, Italy, 14.0% XD, #670844 $16.95 (Tasted June 20, 2009)

A Vintages release on February 28, 2009 described anonymously as “A 50/50 blend of the local grapes Grillo and Catarratto. Grillo is known for its full body, while Catarratto, when in the right hands, can produce fine, crisp and characterful wines. Together, it is a near-perfect partnership. The result is a full-bodied, fresh and crisp wine with citrus, yellow plum, pear, peach and sweet herb notes. Enjoy this lively wine with pan-fried fish or Cioppino (the Italian version of bouillabaisse).” My notes: I haven’t tasted these grapes before so thought to give this blend a try. The colour is a light blond and, if there is one, the nose is a faint honey. Flavours are an interesting melon, honey and green apple starting with a distinct fruity seam as it fades slowly on the palate leaving a warm grassy edge. Nicely balanced acid with fruit, a medium-bodied dry sipper or pair with grilled black cod or lightly oiled, cheesed and herbed seafood pastas. I believe most imbibers would go for refills. Ww89

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TRUCHARD ZINFANDEL NAPA VALLEY 2003, Carneros, USA, 14.2% XD, #054858 $18.95 (Retasted June 2, 2009)

My notes: Rated Ww90 in January 2008 when last tasted. Made from 100% Napa Carneros grapes, I’d say the blackberry has left the nose altho’ the colour is a rich crushed blackberry. There’s a reasonable film on the bowl leaving long and fast legs, medium-bodied with a clean and dry mouthfeel. Silky from the first sip to the long finish, a slight metallic note with a blending of zingy blackberry blueberry and a depth that continues to shift adding warm herbal tones. The relative lightness as a sipper is delectable more so than a fruitier zinfandel. This would be great with rack of lamb, Italian sausage or lamb shank. Cellaring well and should for a few more years. Too bad it’s no longer stocked however the 2006 is $25US on the winery website and could be as high as $35 at Vintages. Ww90

J.P. CHENET CLASSIC CINSAULT GRENACHE ROSÉ 2008, Pays d’Oc, France, 12.0% MD, #125815 $9.95 (Tasted June 8, 2009)

A General listing without a description. My notes: There is a tinge of peach to the light pink colour in the glass and a delicate perfume of stone fruit and strawberry. Dry to the taste and flavours of slight strawberry, raspberry and clay, just enough to notice, perhaps with a touch of natural sweetness. The finish is a balance of delicate fruit, dry and everso slight roundness. This would be an economical summer garden party sipper. Likely not enough tartness for a main course and not enough for a buffet spread… have with light finger foods or just sip on a hot day. The J P Chenet bottle is distinctive for sure. Ww80
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CONO SUR MERLOT ROSÉ 2008, Chile, 12.5% MD, #122481 $9.95 (Tasted June 9, 2009)
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A General listing without a description. My notes: This is a vivid pink, bright and clear in the glass. The nose is slightly grassy, berry-ish and sweaty with the first sip having similar leanings: grass, sweat then slight berry. The flavourings carry forward in a moderate finish, dry, warm and silky. An economical summer day sipper, lesser so than the J.P. Chenet (#125815 $9.95) but with a stronger bite adequate for light buffet fare, sea food dishes and white fowl, warm or cold sliced on greens. A recipe rosé perhaps from young vines, nothing to avoid but nothing to look forward to. Ww80
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AMAYNA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, Leyda Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #077693 $20.95 (Retasted June 13, 2009)
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My notes: Last tasted in January this year with the comment ‘should cellar up to two years’. The soft floral in the nose has lessened leaving a soft grassiness, not objectionable. Has the same mouthfeel with a silky creaminess and some smoke to flavours of melon, lime and green gooseberry. The finish retains much of the fruit adding a noticeable herbaceous edge making this a scrumptious sipper overall. This needs a milder seafood dish to complement its tropical subtleties. Still cellaring well but likely not as long as two years previously suggested. Ww90.
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ANAKENA CABERNET SAUVIGNON ROSÉ 2008, Rapel Valley, Chile, 12.5% D, #122432 $10.95 (Tasted June 19, 2009)

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My notes: According to the website “Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are macerated at 10ºC for 12 hours in stainless steel tanks. The must is separated from the skin before the fermentation process takes place… “ The colour is vivid crushed strawberry and aromas, only if you have a good sniffer, include watermelon and berries. Well balanced with a touch of drying tannins and a slight acid, medium-bodied, and showing some berries with a sweet mineral aspect. The finish continues with this mineral note and a filmy lining. A marginal sipper preferably paired with fish entrées, sushi or an Asian buffet. Not for cellaring and not recommended as a rosé for a social get together. Ww81

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CAVE SPRING ROSÉ 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Jordan, Canada, 11.5% D, #295006 $12.95 (Tasted June 15, 2009)

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A General listing described anonymously as “Brilliant rose colour; fragrant raspberry and fresh picked strawberry aromas and flavours with apple notes; dry, light to medium bodied, finishes with crisp dry finish. Serve with cold cuts; fish soup; salad plate; grilled salmon burgers.” My notes: The saignée method allows primarily cabernet skins to provide the brilliant colour of this rosé. I tasted the 2006 vintage (Ww90) along with 16 other rosés in July last year. The colour is a brilliant rose and aromas of a blend of raspberry and cherry, very slight such that a grassiness glimmers through. An entirely different grape mix tho' still from Beamsville Bench (73%) and Niagara River (27%) than the 2006 made up this vintage: 44% Cabernet Franc; 20% Cabernet Sauvignon; 25% Gamay; 7% Syrah; 4% Riesling. Dry and tangy but showing a touch of natural sweetness giving this some roundness in the first sip and flavours of pomegranate among nearly ripe berries. Have with finger foods or with cold chicken breast on greens. A unique style of drink now for a general crowd. Ww82

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TEMPLE BRUER GRENACHE/SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER 2005, Longhorne Creek, Australia, 13.5% D, #090290 $17.95 (Tasted June 18, 2009)

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A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 described and rated 88/100 by Harvey Steiman (Oct 15, 2008) as “This is dark, ripe and distinctive for the spicy, fleshy character - probably from the Viognier - around a core of dense currant, blackberry and tar flavours. Grenache(63%), Shiraz(28%) and Viognier(9%). Drink now through 2013.” My notes: This has a black cherry hue, a tad sombre, and aromas of canned byng cherries. A swirl brings a firm film with slow tears. The flavours are quite unique, each grape bringing something to the mix. Long and warm, the finish fills the senses with earthy cherries, silky with a penetrating nip and a touch of natural sweetness but drying to the palate. This likely would satisfy a wide set of drinkers, young/old, new or old world. It held its own with spicy chili con carne and would with most seasoned grilled meats and full flavoured stews. A drink now that could easily cellar a few more years. Ww88

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CHAKANA ‘ANDEAN WINES’ MALBEC 2008, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #003509 $13.95 (Tasted June 22, 2009)

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A Vintages release on June 20, 2009 given 4 out of 5 by Rod Phillips on March 26, 2009 describing it as “… full of fruit flavour, but a cut above the boring, fruity dross that fills so many inexpensive bottles. Here you get structure and balance, and sheer, simple pleasure. It's an excellent choice for grilled red meats.” My notes: The 2008 has an unappealing aspect to the nose offsetting a light blackberry scent - to me a bit Brett-ish but not barnyard, more fish market. Airing helps a tad. The colour is a deep ruby, perhaps a tad lighter altho’ with the same rich hue as the previous year‘s. The flavour as well has a distinct chemical taint with a sharp acid seam, as though the fruit hadn’t developed fully on the vine. This seam flows into a long finish leaving a brambly layer on the palate. Not a sipper - better paired with grilled meats if a bottle comes your way. Best to avoid this vintage. Ww77

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CHAKANA MALBEC 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D, #003509 $13.95 (Retasted June 22, 2009)

My notes: Last tasted in July 2008 and rated Ww91. The rich deep ruby colour and aromas of black cherries dipped in chocolate are still inviting. Airing isn’t necessary as in the earlier tasting. The nose remains somewhat more delicate. Still ‘midway to soft with a bright tartness and texture of fine tannin enveloping dark fruit’. Bolder than in July, now with a noticeable sharpness and less fruit, not as ‘polite‘ and the finish has a tinge of bramble at the end. Cellaring may turn this around yet but not within year or even two. Either drink now or leave up to four years is my guess. Have with grilled meats. Ww90

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SOGRAPE GAZELA ROSÉ NV, Beiras, Portugal, 10.0% D, #125757 $8.95 (Tasted June 26, 2009)

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My notes: Perhaps more pink than salmon, attractive in a tulip glass with an aroma of slightly spiced strawberries. The spritz makes for a refreshing first sip and light flavours of strawberries with a few berries induces the follow-on sips. Then the finish gives a late burst of spritz on the throat with some spice, some tang but mainly fruit. An economical summer sipper for a congenial crowd when a lively rosé is the preferred accompaniment to conversation. Have with bok choy and shrimp dip or a plate of sliced ham and French bread. A drink now. Ww84

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LANCERS ROSÉ NV, Dao, Portugal, 10.0% D, #078931 $7.95 (Tasted June 23, 2009)
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A General listing described anonymously as “Bright pink colour; aromas of sweet strawberry, marachino cherry and fresh raspberry with floral notes and hints of tropical fruit; slightly sweet, medium bodied, soft acidity but well balanced, with flavours of light cherry, raspberry and melon. A great accompaniment to Asian inspired dishes and spicy food. Try also with goat cheese salad or a fruit tray with yoghurt dip. Best served well chilled.” My notes: I was curious to try Lancers after many years of neglect. The colour is a salmon pink and midsize bubbles cover the sides of the tulip glass for a short while. Aromas are notable for their absence and initial flavours of a lightly crushed watermelon and berries hit the taste buds. A slight sweetness and minimal tang add to the initial sip. The finish is lightly flavoured remnants - nothing that could be called interesting. This needs a few crushed strawberries or a lime slice squeezed liberally… or, for the price, I’d recommend a shot of vodka in a glass of Sun-Rype Fruit Strawberry Banana or a freshly made sangria. Ww75

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WOLF BLASS YELLOW LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006, Australia, 14.0% D, #251876 $16.45 (Tasted June 26, 2009)

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A General listing anonymously described as “Deep red purple colour; dry and medium bodied; mulberry/cassis fruit aromas with pronounced eucalyptus, spice and oak; balanced with soft tannins and a long, fruity finish. Serve with rack of lamb, grilled or roasted red meats, hard cheese.” My notes: The violet tinged deep ruby colour and peppery black currant aroma are somewhat inviting for a first time taste. This has a firm film with slow legs when swirled and a sip shows a silky texture. The flavours have a firm black currant character with a good portion of earth, spice and tang. Not a tooth cleaner althou’ close - I’d call it dense and overly bright. The finish starts with dark fruit and shifts to bramble, warm and dense - more of a dinner wine than a sipper. Have with grilled ribs, seared sirloin or T-bone, full flavoured stews or shank of lamb. If cellaring mellows it it could be a good value. Try two years at a time. Ww89

Niagara Visit June 2009: 10 Tasted of 10

The weather was sunny with very cool high winds. Recent rainfall gave a lustrous look to every green thing - perfect for an interesting drive along the quiet, meandering Niagara Wine Route.

I had just downloaded and printed the Shopping List for Vintages June 6th release and noticed several bottles from an artisan winery new to me: Rosewood Estates Winery & Meadery. Fifteen acres of forty are the Renaceau vineyards on the gradual slope of Mountainview Road as it climbs the Niagara Escarpment on the Beamsville Bench. Planted with viniferous grapes in 2003 the vines are producing crops for Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Semillon VQA varietal and blended wines. The spring of 2008 marked the first releases of the 2006 vintage wines - around 1700 cases. Natalie Spytkowsky, the winemaker, is from neighbouring Angels Gate Winery while the Roman family tends everything else.

• Rosewood Estates ‘Renaceau Vineyard’ Chardonnay Reserve 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ww94 -- O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $25.20
• Rosewood Estates ‘Renaceau Vineyard’ Riesling Reserve 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ww94 -- O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $25.20
• Rosewood Estates Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww86 -- V, Beamsville, Canada, #112169 $17.95
• Rosewood Estates ‘Renaceau Vineyard’ Trois Femmes Rosé 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ww86 -- O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $18.20
• Rosewood Estates Pinot Noir 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ww84 -- V, Beamsville, Canada, #112177 $17.95
• Rosewood Estates Gewurztraminer 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww83 -- O, Beamsville, Canada, #Winery $18.20

During the same week I received a Newsletter from Calamus Estate Winery, an artisan winery visited for the first time last October. The e.mail announced the release of two whites, a 2008 vintage of our favourite 2007, their Pinot Gris, and their 2007 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay. We quickly planned a trip and weren’t disappointed.

Most of the wines listed below were brought home from the wineries for a more leisurely tasting while two were purchased from Vintages June 6th release. Those tasted will be resequenced by Ww rating and shown in bold. Cheers, Ww

• Calamus Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww92 -- O, Jordan, Canada, #Winery, $15.20
• Calamus Estate Winery ‘Vinemount Ridge’ Riesling 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww89 -- O, Jordan, Canada, #Winery, $17.20
• Calamus Estate Winery ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww84 -- O, Jordan, Canada, #Winery, $17.20
• Calamus Estate Winery ‘Half Penny’ Rosé 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww82 -- O, Jordan, Canada, #Winery, $13.20

TASTINGS:

ROSEWOOD ESTATES ’RENACEAU VINEYARD’ TROIS FEMMES ROSÉ 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% D, #Winery $18.20 (Tasted June 6, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “Rich in mouth-feel, yet surprisingly dry with balanced acidity. Our 100% saignée Merlot Rosé presents us with strawberry jam and fresh wild raspberries… lip-smacking... Enjoy this … with grilled Cajun shrimp, pork medallions, gourmet pizza and summer salads.” My notes: This has a pleasing-to-the-eye peach tone. The nose is a delicate almost ripe strawberry with a touch of ginger, not distinctive but there. The first sip leaves a roundness on the lips and a light flavour of strawberry tinged with raspberry. Have as a summer sipper for its dry berry medley and moderate finish. Pair with seafood as a dry white alternative. May cellar as long as a year but basically a summer drink now. Ww86

ROSEWOOD ESTATES GEWURZTRAMINER 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% D, #Winery $18.20 (Tasted June 27, 2009)

My notes: This has a clean light golden colour and an aroma of honey, a tinge of wildflowers and, fortunately faint, a scent of must. The honey goes forward to the first sip giving flavours of peas and green apple a silky texture. On top is a seam of spice and acid. Finishing with mostly spice and delicate peas/apple mix in the background this is an unusual sipper. A mix of grapes from various Benches may have confused my buds. Overall it's not a gewurz I'd have in for friends. Ww83

ROSEWOOD ESTATES ’RENACEAU VINEYARD’ RIESLING RESERVE 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Canada, 12.0% D, #Winery $25.20 (Tasted June 17, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “Created in a classic off-dry style… cold fermented in 100% stainless steel tanks to maintain its varietal character. The bursting intensity of mineral, lime and citrus notes on the nose lures you to the palate layered with vibrant and refreshing acidity where a touch of citrus fruit zest teases your mouth. Drink now or cellar for the next 5 years.” My notes: Rosewood Estate’s 2006 Riesling (#112698 @ $17.95) was released by Vintages on June 6th whereas this 2007 Reserve Riesling was purchased on our visit to the winery. A very delicate aroma, perhaps of wild flowers, and a very light blond in the glass builds anticipation of the first sip to determine the character of this riesling. Crisp, dry, chalky edged, assertive lime and lemon flavours all following through in a long mineral tinged finish makes this very interesting. Refreshing to the end and suitable for anyone looking for a summer cooler with a polite tang. Have by itself, with fresh oysters or pair with whitefish entrées and quaff with bacon on a bun or lobster pieces cold or hot - a very flexible riesling. Drinking well now but could cellar for several years. Ww94

ROSEWOOD ESTATES ’RENACEAU VINEYARD’ CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Canada, 14.0% D, #Winery $25.20 (Tasted June 30, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “Our 3 barrels were aged sur lie in premium French oak barrels for 10 months. The malolactic fermentation was stopped half-way which allows the wine to maintain the clean citrus characteristics of the Renaceau vineyard. Developing notes of caramel, butterscotch and vanilla framed by just enough acidity makes this wine a perfect pairing to veal, pork tenderloin and pasta dishes with cream sauce. Drink now or cellar for 5 years.” My notes: The ‘Reserve’ on the label makes a difference of $6.75 from #112151 @ $18.45 in Vintages June 6th release. The light blond colour carries just detectable aromas of the French oak treatment. The film is light and tears develop and flow quickly. The first sip grabs the buds and layers them with faint flavours of quince and butterscotch both silky textured. Closer to a Chablis than a Meursault but really reflecting the terroir of the Renaceau vineyard and a ’Rosewood’ style, perfectly blending process with fruit. The finish is long, delicate, full of butter with some citrus leanings. Quite sip-able now and will likely mature nicely over the next several years. Have with shellfish or regular fishes, not too seasoned so as to complement the delicate nature of this chardonnay. Ww94

ROSEWOOD ESTATES PINOT NOIR 2007 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% D, #112177 $17.95 (Tasted June 9, 2009)

A Vintages release on June 6, 2009 rated 90/100 and described by local reviewer John Szabo M.S. (undated) as “Fruit from the Wismer Vineyard. Clean, fresh, fruity, nice potential. Dry, fullish, lots of baby fat, smooth, silky tannins/texture, great depth. If it continues on this road this will be an exceptional value. Just a light filtration before bottling.” And another local, Gord Stimmell, gives it 90/100 saying “... it has lovely beetroot, strawberry and cherry aromas. And rootsy cherry and earthy wild berry flavours. A solid pinot for less than $20.” My notes: The sticker on the bottle says this is a gold medal winner at the 2008 Canadian Wine Awards. The colour is a slate ruby and the thin film leaves light tears on the glass. After airing for twenty minutes the nose is negligible, a soft beetroot, and a sip follows through with this theme: beetroot, wild strawberry and earth, faint and in equal portions. The texture is silky, nicely balanced with fine tannins giving the finish some length. This is likely referred to as ‘Burgundian‘. Cellaring for two years may add more character - don’t think so tho’. Passable with prime rib, hamburgers or meaty pizzas. Ww84

ROSEWOOD ESTATES SEMILLON/SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% D, #112169 $17.95 (Tasted June 11, 2009)

A Vintages release on June 6, 2009 rated 90/100 and described by local reviewer John Szabo M.S. (undated) as “Clear, sharper, more piercing aromatics than the 2006, seems to be a little more green fruit: green apple, seems more sauvignon-dominated (though only 23% overall). Dry, fullish, intense ripe, acidulated tropical fruit emerges on the palate, pineapple, kiwi, grapefruit. Long finish. Great new world.” My notes: A light golden blond colour with soft aromas of saffron and honey. The first sip introduces some sweetness to a dry lining of delicate citrus and quince setting off the flavours. Passionfruit and gooseberry are noted by their absence. The finish is drying with citrus remaining to refresh the palate. Have with light finger foods or as a before and after sipper when the finish can build. Pairing with freshwater fish or grilled scallops on basmati rice should be OK. A drink now. Ww86

CALAMUS ESTATE WINERY ‘VINEMOUNT RIDGE’ RIESLING 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Jordan, Canada, 11.8% D, #Winery, $17.20 (Tasted June 16, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “Grown on the escarpment of the Niagara sub-appellation Vinemount Ridge, our 2007 Riesling exhibits classic citrus and fruit flavours. Pair it with steamed mussels, baked ham or pasta with cheese sauce.” My notes: There’s a light mineral aspect to the nose to let you know it’s riesling. The colour is a light golden, crisp and clear. Served well chilled the first sip refreshes as flavours of faint honey, lime and apple blend together, a combination to cleanse the palate. The finish has only a suspicion of sweetness being basically dry with a silky seam of green apple and honey. Have with fresh oysters, mildly spicy mussels or a scallop or shrimp pasta dish. Drinking well now and could cellar for a few years. Ww89

CALAMUS ESTATE WINERY PINOT GRIS 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Jordan, Canada, 12.2% D, #Winery $15.20 (Tasted June 2, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “Pinot Gris has become a signature wine for Calamus. Our 2008 was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. It shows lightly honeyed peach and apricot flavours, with tart acidity and a light minerality on the finish. Try it with grilled jumbo shrimps or smoked salmon.” My notes: The 2008 shows crystal clear tinged a delicate gold in the glass - no peach that I could see. The nose is of fresh apricots when just off chill and the first sip has a natural peach stone flavour with the apricots still showing in a long finish. A moderate acid balances a suspicion of natural sweetness altho’ the finish comes across as a touch of dry clay. This was perfect with fresh fiddleheads and shallots accompanying a grilled chicken breast filled with spinach and feta with sweet potato fries. Cellaring for a few years shouldn’t be a problem. A value PG. Ww92

CALAMUS ESTATE WINERY ‘HALF PENNY’ ROSÉ 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Jordan, Canada, 12.4% D, #Winery, $13.20 (Tasted June 7, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “Our 2007 rosé is a masterful blend of select wines from a stellar vintage; ruby coloured with notes of cranberry and ripe raspberry. It is crisp and clean with soft tannins and medium acuity. Try it as an aperitif or pair with turkey, ham or fish. Also try with vegetarian dishes, light cheeses or Asian inspired teriyaki or mild curries. The wine is a blend of 25% Pinot Gris, 30% Gewürztraminer, 20% Riesling, 20% Chardonnay, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.” My notes: I refer to a blending of whites and adding a red for tinting a `faux rosé`. Not that this should detract from enjoyment of the resulting rosé but to distinguish this method from saignée in which red grape skins remain for a few days for colouring. The shade in this case is a delicate peachy pink and the nose has a slight peach stone base edged with the mineral hint of clay. Crisp and dry, having the nip and flavour of almost ripe berries and a finish that quickly goes from fruit to dry bramble. Fairly shallow as a sipper losing appeal after a glass altho could be a summer sipper for its refreshing dryness. Ignore the shading and pair as an alternative dry white for sea food or white fowl dishes. Ww82

CALAMUS ESTATE WINERY ‘BARREL AGED’ CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Jordan, Canada, 12.6% D, #Winery, $17.20 (Tasted June 30, 2009)

Described by the Winery as “The 2007 Vintage was a spectacular one in Niagara with wines presenting excellent extraction and complexity – a vintage to remember. Our Chardonnay was aged 18 months in French oak barrels and shows notes of spice, caramel and subtle fruit.” My notes: This has a crisp blond colour and aromas of delicate pear blossom and faint vanilla needing time to develop in the bowl - air twenty minutes or serve just a bit off chill. The film is firm with slow legs and the first sip shows equal parts grassy spice, sour apple and butterscotch. Better to have with a cold buffet than sip by itself altho‘ the unique style could be appealing to some. The finish is soft, balanced on the tangy side and fairly long. There is a touch of French oak and lime but the fruit I’d say is too indistinct to maintain a presence. Flavours did not go well with bbq’d pineapple and shrimp skewers and soy’d brown rice - have with freshwater fish and plain rice dishes. Rather than drink now lay down for three years to see where it goes. Ww84

May 2009 Wines: 20 Tasted of 20

Some wines are bought on spec. throughout the month and some are brought to the house by kind guests (g). When a wine has been tasted it will appear in bold and resequenced by Ww rating. Cheers, Ww

• Viña Calina Alcance Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Ww93 -- V, Maule Valley, Chile, #079533 $19.95
• Mitolo ‘Jester’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Ww92 -- V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #043224 $22.95
• Domaine de la Jasse Vieilles Vignes 2000, Ww91 -- O, Pays d'Oc, France, #SO39-2636 $18.67
• Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Ww90 -- G, Marlborough, NZ, #426601 $15.95
• X&Y Chardonnay 2006, Ww90 -- V, Margaret River, Australia, #048561 $18.80
• Alkoomi ‘Frankland River’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Ww90 -- V, Western Australia, #904227 $17.95
• Bodegas Ateca Atteca Old Vines 2006, Ww90 -- V, Calatayud, Spain, #103473 $22.95
• Terravin Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006, Ww89 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #106021 $21.95
• MontGras Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2007, Ww88 -- G, San Antonio Valley, Chile, #058362 $11.95
• Bodegas Faustino I Tinto Gran Reserva 1995, Ww88 - V, Rioja, Spain, #976662 $32.95 (g)
• Southbrook Triomphe Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ww85 -- V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada, #117556 $18.95
• Dornier Merlot 2003, Ww85 -- V, Stellenbosch, S.Africa, #694224 $18.95
• Westend Estate Richland Pinot Grigio 2008, Ww85 -- V, Riverina, Australia, #092494 $13.95
• Henry LaGarde Chardonnay Reserve 2007, Ww84 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #098087 $17.95
• Castellani Poggio Al Casone La Cattura 2006, Ww82 -- V, Tuscany, Italy, #121194 $19.95
• Wakefield Chardonnay 2007, Ww82 -- V, South Australia, #711556 $15.95
• Fattoria La Loggia Terra Dei Cavalieri Chianti Classico 1997, Ww80 -- G, Italy, #738146 $14.90
• Pérez Cruz Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Ww80 -- V, Maipo Valley, Chile, #694208 $14.95
• Lindemans Bin 85 Pinot Grigio 2008, Ww79 -- G, Australia, #668947 $10.85 (g)
• Wolf Blass Yellow Label Chardonnay 2007, Ww76 -- G, Australia, #226860 $14.95 (g)

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other)

TASTINGS:

WAKEFIELD CHARDONNAY 2007, South Australia, 14.5% D, #711556 $15.95 (Tasted May 15, 2009)

A Vintages release on April 11, 2009 described as “A ripe, luscious, peach-, nectarine- and citrus-scented wine with well-integrated creamy oak tones. This clean, balanced, and fruity wine is an excellent match for roast pork, mushroom risotto and, as the producer suggests, Chinese spice-encrusted duck.” My notes: Wakefield’s Shiraz 2005 (#943787, $17.95) was tasted in October 2007 and rated Ww88. This chardonnay has a blond colour and leaves a thin viscous film on the bowl. An orange- grapefruit aroma lifts briefly from the glass if given a few minutes to develop and go slightly off chill. The first sip dries the palate and shows slight citrus flavours and a tinge of cream - an oak treatment is not evident. The finish is dry with subtle flavours and tang making this a suitable beverage for a general gathering or a dry white for a buffet lunch, with seafood pastas, cold chicken breast sliced on greens or with cold pork. A drink now. Ww82

TERRAVIN SAUVIGNON BLANC/SEMILLON 2006, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #106021 $21.95 (Tasted May 13, 2009)

A Vintages release on April 11, 2009 described by Michael Cooper of New Zealand Buyer’s Guide, 2008 giving it 4 out of 5, “… mouthfilling, crisp and ripely herbaceous, with intense flavours and a slightly flinty, bone-dry finish.” My notes: A blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon with a pale golden colour and unusual aromatics: nettles, gooseberry and grapefruit - not floral. Lots of tang without being a tooth cleaner and there’s a moderate lusciousness to flavours of equal parts lime, young gooseberry and grapefruit. Semillon adds an extra citrus twist to a otherwise lightly flavoured NZ style Sauvignon Blanc. The long finish is crisp and clean. This shows some youthfulness and should cellar well for several years. Have with telapia, halibut and fries or Thai chicken - a flexible white. Ww89

WOLF BLASS YELLOW LABEL CHARDONNAY 2007, Australia, 13.5% D, #226860 $14.95 (Tasted May 5, 2009)

A General listing described without a source as “Bright yellow gold; tropical fruit and citrus with toasty, buttery oak aromas; full-bodied with intense flavours; smooth, warm spice and a long finish. Serve with crabs legs, lobster or grilled tuna.” My notes: The 2003 vintage was previously tasted in March 2005 at the same price (hope the recipe has improved since). If it weren’t for the coolness of the liquid this would have nothing to sniff. A light golden with a fairly heavy viscous film, slow legs on the bowl and a first sip of something sweet, almost like fruit. This lasts for a long while fading into a soft melon complete with a slight tang and cloying off-dry edge. A recipe chardonnay perhaps with some crushed grapes along the way. A drink now that could accompany seafood dishes in a pinch. Not for cellaring. Ww76

LINDEMANS BIN 85 PINOT GRIGIO 2008, Australia, 11.5% D, #668947 $10.85 (Tasted May 8, 2009)

A General listing described as “Pale straw colour; soft, fresh pear fruit aromas; dry, medium bodied, fresh and flavourful, rounded palate, balanced acidity on finish. Serve with shrimp in garlic butter, pasta con alio e olio and light appetizers.” My notes: A Lindemans varietal I haven’t tasted before. The colour is a pale yellow and aromas are nonexistent but nothing foul. The first sip is a diluted grapefruit and the finish remains a diluted grapefruit, tamely acidic and could be called ‘refreshing’. Pair with a delicate perch or pickerel filet lightly lemon’d and grilled. A recipe wine for the drink now market. Ww79

SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada, 12.5% XD, #117556 $18.95 (Tasted May 5, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 2, 2009 described by local critic John Szabo as “… Very clean, pungent, fresh and highly fruity, with wonderfully aromatic passion fruit etc. … Gives great Sancerre or NZ a run for the money… 89/100”. My notes: The first from Southbrook I’ve tasted. There’s a touch of orange zest in the nose, mild but there. The colour is a faint gold and the first sip is surprising by the delicate-ness of the fruit. There’s a crisp lemon lime tang and a touch of peach that carry through to the finish but sipping is fairly hollow. The partnership faded when paired with grilled shrimp on yellow curried spinach and basmati rice - would be better with a fish or seafood chowder. A pleasant enough sipper - not for cellaring. Closer to a Sancerre but not ‘great’ (see Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Les Baronnes 2007, France, #542548 $24.95 (Oct 14, 2008) Ww92) and there‘s no gooseberries to compare with a NZ (see Soljans Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007, NZ, #091223 $17.95 (Mar 14, 2009) Ww90). Ww85

HENRY LAGARDE CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.9% D, #098087 $17.95 (Tasted May 8, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 2, 2009 described with no apparent source as “… impresses with its fresh tropical fruit flavours and intriguing accents of honey and peach. Terrific with a crab salad or scallops with summer squash.” My notes: A light golden colour with a fairly viscous film and no legs to speak of. The nose is a faint honey, lemon and green apple including a slight tang all flowing through to the first sip. The finish is long with a firm tang and the flavours show more of their grassy side, still bright and refreshing. A reasonable sipper better with a buffet of sausage pieces, chicken wings or shaved meats. Pair with planked salmon, shrimp kebobs or seafood pastas. A drink now. Ww84

ALKOOMI ‘FRANKLAND RIVER’ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, Western Australia, 14.5% XD, #904227 $17.95 (Tasted May 2, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 2, 2009 described by Josh Raynolds as “Ruby-red. Vibrant red- and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by musky tobacco, cedar and underbrush; very cabernet. Bitter cherry and liquorice add firmness to the sweet berry flavours, with dusty tannins contributing grip. The tannins gain strength on the finish but the wine maintains freshness and a sweetly seductive personality. 90/100, July/Aug. 2008.“ My notes: There’s a dull cast to the deep ruby colour and a warm wood fragrance to the ripe black cherry nose. Then a smooth texture, full-bodied, dry and with a charred edge to ripe black fruit that transitions slowly into a long well balanced, chalky dry finish. Have with anything full flavoured and beefy: a stew to bbq’d back ribs - but not too spicy. This should cellar well for a few more years. Ww90

CASTELLANI POGGIO AL CASONE LA CATTURA 2006, Tuscany, Italy, 12.5% XD, #121194 $19.95 (Tasted May 4, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 2, 2009 described by James Suckling as “Shows freshly sliced plum, with crushed raspberry, almost peach. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long, clean and crisp finish. Hard not to drink now. A fascinating wine. Teroldego and Syrah. 90/100, Sept. 30, 2008.” My notes: I’d call the colour a ‘noble’ ruby, deep with a crimson cast. Has to sit awhile for the nose to develop an earthy void, that is, a lack of fruit, specific or blended but with freshness. The first sip also lacks definition then each follow on sip builds a delicate flavour of blueberry and cherry with a texture that is soft with dry tannins and a mild acid. Its delicate finish presents an uncertainty when suggesting a pairing… perhaps cold or roast turkey, a ham steak or pork tenderloin. This is a subtle old world drink now and, for me, not enough there to maintain an interest. Not cellarable and not a value. Ww82

DOMAINE DE LA JASSE VIEILLES VIGNES 2000, Pays d'Oc, France, 13.5% XD, #SO39-2636 $18.67 (Retasted May 6, 2009)

My notes: Originally purchased from the Opimian Wine Society in January 2004 this was last tasted in November 2007 and rated Ww88. The nose is a delicate black currant and a swirl leaves a firm film with lots of long legs against a rich ruby colour. There’s a mix of flavours and textures all making this a mysterious and interesting sipper: mostly black currant with some raspberry mellowed with a slight liquorice and silky smooth. The finish extends these flavours leaving the silk and a soft spice. An excellent sipper and would be great with prime rib, a lamb shank or gourmet burgers. Five years has turned this into a value red and there‘s still depth to improve. Ww91

BODEGAS FAUSTINO I TINTO GRAN RESERVA 1995, Rioja, Spain, 13.0% D, #976662 $32.95 (Retasted May 7, 2009)

My notes: Last tasted November 08, 2007 with a Ww89 rating - now in its fourteenth year. Airing for an hour improves the nose and flavour. The nose is lightly aromatic with predominant plums and cherries subdued by an oak edge. The film is thin showing a few fast legs and a colour that matches the nose. The first sip adds some vanilla with the fruit, pleasing fine tannins and subtle acid, is on the light side of medium-bodied and has a long finish, dry and flavourful. Very sippable now and may be on the decline of cellar-ability, more of a drink now. Sip slowly to savour the finesse or pair with crockpot stews, veal or pork. Ww88

BODEGAS ATECA ATTECA OLD VINES 2006, Calatayud, Spain, 14.5% XD, #103473 $22.95 (Tasted May 12, 2009)

A Vintages release on March 14, 2009 described by Jay Miller (Feb 2008) with a rating of 91/100 as “The 2006 Atteca is 100% Garnacha old-vines ranging from 80-120 years. Dark ruby-colored, it delivers an alluring bouquet of Asian spices, wild black cherry, and blueberry. Layered and sweetly-fruited, the wine is nicely balanced and lengthy. It has enough stuffing to evolve for 1-2 years but can be enjoyed now… ” My notes: The film is firm, slow legs developing with several swirls. The nose is somewhat subdued berries with a tinge of white pepper, no pronounced oak treatment showing, surprising for a Spanish red (imho). Light tannins, a silky texture and medium- to full-bodied set the background for subtle berries. There is a lightness to the finish that complements the fruit and the alcohol level doesn’t intrude. A not-in-your-face sipper and great with prime rib, lamb shank or beef Wellington. Cellar up to three years. Ww90

VIÑA CALINA ALCANCE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006, Maule Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #079533 $19.95 (Tasted May 11, 2009)

A Vintages release on January 10, 2009 described by an unknown source as “… This deeply coloured Cab is packed with aromas of cherry, blackcurrant and ample sweet oak and coffee. The palate is bursting with sweet cassis and red berry preserve flavours leading to a touch of vanilla on the lingering finish.” My notes: This has a deep purple colour and reasonable film leaving long legs and staining on the bowl. A herby aspect to a black currant nose results from a nicely balanced oak and the first sip is smooth with rich black currant flavourings then tannin momentarily grips the palate before mellowing into a long, warm sensation of black fruit preserve. Let breathe an hour before serving - this one has improved opening the previous day. Have with bbq’d ribs, rack of lamb or grilled steaks. A full-bodied, bold sipper now or for cellaring several years. Ww93

MONTGRAS SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2007, San Abtonio Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #058362 $11.95 (Tasted May 16, 2009)

A General listing described by an unknown source as “Pale lemon yellow colour with hints of green; intense fresh scents of citrus, gooseberry, and cut grass; light bodied, racy acidity, displaying flavours of lemon zest, grass, and green apple. Great with arugula, beet and goat cheese salad.” My notes: The Mont Gras Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (#619205, $10.85) was rated Ww90 when tasted in November last year. The Sauvignon Blanc is a clear blond colour with aromas of nettles, slight green gooseberries and kiwi fruit. The film is light giving notice to the crispness and light roundness of the first sip, almost chalky with a dry tang that lasts awhile. Flavours are subtle being mostly delicate citrus and green apple with the gooseberry revealing itself in the finish. Would go well with fresh oysters, prosciutto wrapped asparagus or grilled seafoods. Ww88

WESTEND ESTATE RICHLAND PINOT GRIGIO 2008, Riverina, Australia, 12.0% D, #092494 $13.95 (Tasted May 18, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 2, 009 described by Huon Hooke, an Australian wine critic (Gourmet Traveller Wine, Dec. 2008/Jan. 2009) as “So much pinot grigio is bland, boring and watery, but this one at least has fragrance and flavour and is well-priced. It has an estery, floral, youthful perfume and is light but fruity in the mouth with no excess of sweetness. Instead, it has appealing softness and some delicacy with a well-balanced finish and a general impression of very good drinkability… “ My notes: A pale blond with possibly a greenish cast. The fragrance has a grassy floral with a crisp citrus edge and the first sip has a soft texture with a combination of grass, green apple and faint melon. A warmth carries into the dry finish as the flavours fade slowly making this an interesting sipper. Serve well chilled as an appetizer with finger foods: crab cakes, shrimp ring, lobster pieces or squid. An OK value as a drink now - I don’t this would cellar longer than a year. Ww85

MITOLO JESTER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, McLaren Vale, Australia, 14.5% XD, #043224 $22.95 (Tasted May 19, 2009)

A Vintages release on February 23, 2009 described by Jay Miller, August 2008, and rated 90/100. “The 2007 Jester Cabernet Sauvignon spent 11 months in oak. Purple-coloured, the nose reveals smoke, black currant and cassis. This leads to a medium to full-bodied ripe wine with excellent depth and concentration. Currently the wine is a bit tight but 1-2 years of additional bottle age should round it out nicely. It should be at its peak from 2010 to 2017. The Mitolo wines are made by the talented Ben Glaetzer.” My notes: This has a purple cast to its deep ruby colour and a curious nose of woody blackberry, black currant and spicy pepper. Full-bodied, bold, full of spice overpowering smooth flavours that soon push forward, rich in sweet blackberries, liquorice and currants. The sharpness balances with the compote of flavours and warms the palate for a long while. As a sipper it may not appeal to some. Have with flavourful stews, well seasoned prime rib or rack of lamb. This has the depth for cellaring four years or more - save for at least two. Ww92

DORNIER MERLOT 2003, Stellenbosch, S.Africa, 14.0% XD, #694224 $18.95 (Retasted May 20, 2009)

My notes: This was last tasted in June 2007 before Ww ratings. I liked it: RP gave it 4 ½ of 5 (RP90-93): my BH wouldn’t drink it. Originally purchased from Vintages release of July 8, 2006, I had found it ’unctious… a bright merlot - a wonderful balance of fresh fruit and barrel fermentation.’ Perhaps the extra years will make a difference? This now has a woody wildberry nose along with a blackberry colour, rich and an opaque, slightly violet ruby. The first sip is sharp and tannic preceding a smooth and full, dark berry flavour. The finish is quite tart and leaves a dry layer of teeth cleaning fruit on the palate. Not for the ’general public’ - more for those willing to try the unusual. This improves as it sits but will always be a bold, tart sipper. Have with pepper steaks, gourmet burgers or well seasoned back ribs. Oh Yes! My BH drank it this time. Cellaring another few years couldn’t hurt. Ww85

X&Y CHARDONNAY 2006, Margaret River, Australia, 14.0% XD, #048561 $18.80 (Retasted May 21, 2009)

My notes: Released by Vintages on January 5, 2008 and tasted the same month. James Halliday had rated it 90/100 two years earlier. Still a light blond colour with a firm aroma of melon, grass and kiwi. Medium- to full-bodied, a light creaminess sets the background for strong tropical fruit and grass flavours and a long finish is dry and refreshing rather than tart. Still shows some youthfulness but with more honey making this an interesting sipper. Better with hors d’oeuvres or as an appetizer, then follow with a seafood entrée. Sip now or cellar for a few more years. Ww90

FATTORIA LA LOGGIA TERRA DEI CAVALIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 1997, Italy, 12.5% XD, #738146* $14.90 (Retasted May 24, 2009)

My notes: Originally purchased on Beppi Crosariol's recommendation in February 2002, cellared and later tasted in 2005, 2006 and 2007 with mediocre findings. The Fattoria La Loggia label is *no longer listed and this is the last bottle in the cellar. A blend of 85% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon showing a deep mahogany colour, aromas woody red cherry and leaving long legs with a swirl of the glass. Air for twenty minutes to avoid a light mustiness. Medium-bodied with flavours of red cherry and rhubarb. There’s a metallic tinge along with some vanilla that comes out in a moderate finish from the fermentation. A light dryness and brightness throughout makes this suitable with spaghetti and meatballs or hamburgers, pepperoni pizzas - easily quaffable and an OK sipper for some - unusual for others - rejected by more. On the down slope now but retaining the original chianti character. Ww80

PÉREZ CRUZ RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, Maipo Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #694208 $14.95 (Tasted May 25, 2009)

A Vintages release on May 23, 2009 and described anonymously and without change from preceding vintages as “… Rich and ripe, it features complex aromas and flavours of cherry, pomegranate, toasty oak, chocolate, herbs and spices. It's smooth and well-balanced, with a medium-long finish. Savour it with gourmet sausages or roast pork.” My notes: The 2006 and 2004 vintages were tasted in November 2008 and November 2005 resp. with good results. Cellaring had improved the 2006 considerably as a recent bottle showed nice velvet tones with deep layers of rich fruit - from Ww88 to Ww94 in a year. The 2007 has a similar deep ruby violet colour but a lighter nose of brambly red currants. The first sip is smooth leaving a dry tannin, some initial spicy red currant quickly changing to seedy pomegranate, drying and with a sweet edge. A new label for a somewhat hollow cabernet sauvignon - not likely to cellar well. Have with steaks, ribs or beefy soups. I'll skip this vintage. Ww80

VILLA MARIA PRIVATE BIN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% D, #426601 $15.95 (Tasted May 27, 2009)

A General listing described anonymously as “Pale straw colour; intense aromas of gooseberry, lime, grass and asparagus; dry, medium bodied, crisp acidity, and flavours of bell pepper, gooseberry citrus; clean, crisp finish. Serve with goat cheese dishes, fish, vegetarian fare or herb roasted poultry.” My notes: The Villa Maria SBs have rated above par consistently (2007 and 2004 previously tasted). Their 2008 is a tad fuller than the Southbrook and MontGras above and has a more pronounced herbaceous gooseberry nose, delicate and clean. The colour is a delicately tinged blond, not building any anticipation of the first nippy sip. Pleasantly rounded, lining the mouth with crisp ripe gooseberry flavours, this is a super sipper for a social crowd. The finish is straight forward, fruity, dry and long. Have with crab cakes, mushroom caps, shrimp ring or vegetable plate. Went well with grilled black cod filets with roast potatoes, asparagus and snap peas. Ww90