I Choose to Swirl!

Physics of Wine Swirling

Twenty or so words added to every Tasting Note published in this blog are devoted to the results of swirling.  And I call it a 'discipline' as the steps involved, the dynamics, the angle of the glass start to finish and the conclusions drawn from the reaction of the wine throughout this physical act are an essential part of my tastings. The steps are deliberate, observations are interpreted and simple descriptors record the event.

Professionals can deduce many incidentals just by tasting and some believe swirling is not essential. An unstated factor may be the time it takes to swirl. The number of wines in tasting events may prohibit the seconds it takes to do a respectable swirl including recording observations. If there are upwards of 300 samples in a tasting period swirling and observing could take an additional 6000 seconds - over an hour and a half. Why bother? Nobody else is doing it? Wouldn't the taster look pretentious if he/she were the only swirler. So it's not done!!  The explanation is... "Why Swirl? It's not needed!"

This attitude/approach carries over to everyday tastings: a sommelier performing a pre-dinner sampling, a sip with tour guests, tasting a distributor's newly received stock or doing a perfunctory tasting of a winery's barrels. "Why Swirl? It's not needed!"

None of these professional venues match my solitary tastings of the glass sitting in front of my computer keyboard. Swirling fits between sniffing and sipping which fits between viewing colour (another 'questionable' parameter) and imagining how the finish contributes to a social savouring and/or suitable pairing. Swirling predicts several aspects of a wine: viscosity or visible showing of a liquid's, wine in this case, adhesiveness or sticking power to a micro-polished sampling glass, from initial release of a rotational spin to its return however determined to the main mass. Patterns are formed betraying the liquid's density, its alcohol and sugar level, its clarity. For instance, patterns of a low alcohol, dry Riesling vary substantially from a hot, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Swirling accomplishes something else: Surface airing or mixing a small portion of wine with air and the release of aromas into the glass bowl. That initial pour from the bottle can be quite different from the sniff and mouthful following a swirling which is more characteristic of the wine when it's served.

I'm not suggesting you adopt swirling as a practice... it's something that adds interest and to a certain extent enjoyment to my tasting experience. However, I suggest you are cautious if you hear a 'professional' say  "Why Swirl? It's not needed!"  You're not on a timetable to get your records into the judges. Relax! Enjoy each sip! Take the time to swirl. See how it adds to your wine experience rather than dismissing it by accepting a misleading view.

My opinion, Ww


Reference:

• The Physics of Wine Swirling
• Why swirling wine in a glass makes it taste better

August 2013 Wines - 10 Tasted of 10

My August tasting selections.

Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP:

• Hahn Winery Pinot Noir Monterey 2011, 92-2  --  G, Monterey County, California, #226555 $18.95 
• Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, 91-2  --  G, Napa, California, #055517 $14.95
• Quintay Pinot Noir Grand Reserve Q 2011, 91-2  --  V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #325449 $16.95 
• Aquinas Pinot Noir Napa Valley 2010, 91-2  --  G, Napa Valley, California, #277657 $17.95*
• Oveja Negra Single Vineyard Carmenère 2011, 90a-2  --  V, Valle de Maul, Chile, #302646  $15.95  
• Smoking Loon Old Vine Zinfandel 2011,  88-1  --  G,  Napa, California, #272393  $14.95
• J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 86  --  V,  Paso Robles, California, #313817 (375 mL) $11.95 
• Domaine de Rochebin Clos St. Germain Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne 2011,  84 --  V,   Macon, France, #264549 $18.95 
• Juan Benegas Malbec 2010, 82a  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, #222273 $14.95
• Lionel Osmin & Cie Villa la Réserve Malbec 2010, 80a --  V, Cenac, France, #328641 $14.95 

(V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated)

TASTINGS:

SMOKING LOON OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2011, Napa, California, 14.0%  D  9g/L, #272393 $14.95  (Tasted August 1, 2013)  CS

A General listing produced by Don Sebastiani & Sons as was Pepperwood Grove OV Zinfandel (#308163, $13.85) tasted in July.  My notes:  A rich ruby colour and having ripe aromas of crushed black cherry and black berry bright with an acid edge. A swirl leaves a light film sufficiently viscous to show a smooth rim gradually draining through long tears. Bright also is the first sip of a fresh black cherry/berry blend with a touch of sweet softened by a delicate bramble ending. Would have wide appeal as a medium-bodied sipper as well as a complement with lasagna, meat eaters pizzas and beef dishes. Was great with bbq'd beef burgers with tomato, onion slice, mustard and grilled cremini mushrooms. A drink now that should keep for a year. 88 

SMOKING LOON CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011, Napa, California, 13.5%  D  7g/L, #055517  $14.95  (Tasted August 3, 2013)  CS

A General listing produced by Don Sebastiani & Sons.  My notes: A regal dense rich ruby is an inviting call to sniff and sip. A firm film forms a fragmenting rim leading to snail paced tears then a sniff finds aromas of purple plum, blackberry influenced by a smoky campfire. Velvety smooth, nicely balanced tannin, acid and a flavour matching the nose while adding a hint of dark chocolate is sipper friendly. Sniff and sip this with a good book or friends or pair with anything beefy: steaks, ribs and stews. There's noticeable sweetness in the nose and the long finish although nearer dry. Cellaring several years could bring out more of the process which, if you prefer, could add elegance. Aerating softened a tad but not needed. 91

OVEJA NEGRA SINGLE VINEYARD CARMENÈRE 2011, Valle de Maul, Chile, 13.5%  XD  4g/L, #302646  $15.95  (Tasted August 24, 2013) CS

Released by Vintages on August 3, 2013.  My notes:  A charcoal tinted deep ruby colour and a swirl leaves a firm film with a full rim slowly dropping long slow legs. Air twenty minutes minimum or aerate (preferable). There's an aroma of blackberry, red currant, smoke and dark chocolate that sets up flavours of the same while adding distinct acid and a velvet coating. The finish is long, full and ending on remnants of fur, smoke and fruit. Pair with grilled, bbq'd or roasted beef or game. This may become smoother with five years cellaring. If you prefer a full-bodied old world red still with some dark fruit and a good value this is it.  90a
 
QUINTAY PINOT NOIR GRAND RESERVE Q 2011, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 14.0%  XD  5g/L, #325449  $16.95  (Tasted August 19, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on August 3, 2013.  My notes:  Winner of a Silver Medal (Decanter Asia Wine Awards) in 2012.  A deep ruby with a charcoal cast, regal to view, and a dusty nose of black- and blueberry wrapped in smoke. The film is viscous with full, long legs setting up quickly. A bold first impression with smooth black fruit following an acid that cleanses and lays a dry coating on the palate - a long finish. Is full-bodied with a good fruit presence  accompanying the oak ageing brightening what would have been a solemn treatment. Let air for twenty minutes - seems to lose nose with aerating. Should cellar many years well. Have with anything grilled and beefy. 91

DOMAINE DE ROCHEBIN CLOS ST. GERMAIN VIEILLES VIGNES BOURGOGNE 2011,  Macon, France, 12.5% XD 3g/L, #264549  $18.95  (Tasted August 16, 2013) CS

Released by Vintages on August 3, 2013.   My notes: The colour is a charcoal hued ruby and there's a fragrance of red currant and blackberry soft yet penetrating. A swirl shows a thin film and a rim that fragments leaving a clean surface. A smoky dark fruit with a clean metallic edge makes this a bracing sipper - closes woody and extra dry.  Pair with planked salmon or baked cod with Italian salsa verde. Keep a few on hand for guests preferring less fruit and more process - plan to consume over a year.  84


LIONEL OSMIN & CIE  www.osmin.fr VILLA LA RÉSERVE MALBEC 2010, Cenac, France, 13.0%  XD  4g/L,  #328641 $14.95  (Tasted August 21, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on August 3, 2013. 00% Malbec and rated 89 by Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, (June 2012).  My notes:  Let this sit for twenty minutes on first pouring to lessen a bracing salty aspect to the nose then its a bright blackberry jam aroma. The colour is a deep ruby and a swirl lays a firm film that runs slow tears from a continuous rim. An astringent first sip with raspberry flavour and a metallic bite is interesting but not pleasing as fruit declines leaving an extra dry acerbic end. A meal red to pair with grilled or roasted meats: beef, bison, buffalo, bear.... or use in savoury sauces. Don't see any improvement if cellared. No significant change with aerating. 80a

J. LOHR SEVEN OAKS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, Paso Robles, California, 13.5% XD 6g/L,  #313817  (375 mL) $11.95  (Tasted August 22, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on July 20, 2013. Rated 90 by Natalie MacLean  (March 7, 2013).  My notes: A 750mL bottle is $21.95 (#656561).  The colour is a clean dark ruby and the nose has a smoky blackberry politely acidic at the edges and growing with each sniff. The film sticks at first showing no interruption in the continuous rim until several long legs break free. A nip with the first sip brings freshly squeezed blackberry initially with a silky texture then fine tannins. The finish is moderate, extra dry with a touch of jam. A sipper if a heavy red is preferred. A partner to sausage in a blanket, stuffed mushrooms or buffet style short ribs. Pair with anything substantially seasoned and beefy. A commercial drink now. 86


JUAN BENEGAS MALBEC 2010, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5%  XD  5g/L, #222273  $14.95  (Tasted August 20, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on Jun 22, 2013. Rated 89 by Tony Aspler (November 7, 2012).  My notes: 100% Malbec grapes from La Encerrada vineyard in the Valle de Uco, elevation of 1450 metres. There's a charcoal cast to the deep ruby colour and the nose has a warm earthy scent of blackberry jam and sharp red currant. The film is evenly distributed forming a smooth rim that runs long fast legs. The first reaction is 'pungent and hot' followed by a flavour of woody blackberry going into a long extra dry finish with a hard edge. For me, not a sipper. Pair with seasoned back ribs or T-bone with Chimichurri sauce. Cellaring many years may mellow but may also lose fruit. Aerating reduces 'pungency' and is recommended. 82a

HAHN WINERY PINOT NOIR MONTEREY 2011, Monterey County, California, 14.5%  D  6g/L,  #226555  $18.95  (Tasted August 15, 2013)  CS


A General release.  My notes: 100% Pinot Noir priced at $14US at the winery. A vibrant ruby with a viscous film sticking to the glass leaving a smooth rim shedding long legs followed by clusters of slow tears. A sip confirms a silky smoothness with a penetrating taste of black cherry, red currant going into a dry, light bramble finish. The nose has the same black cherry softness with a red currant streak. An elegant sipper showing some reserve at the start then quickly unfolding full flavour for a long finish. A sociable sipper to be enjoyed by all around a buffet table or between tastes of grilled salmon, rabbit in a rich sauce or with roasted turkey with cranberries and spiced stuffing. Cellaring for two plus years is likely possibly adding but not losing current enjoyment level.   (Paired a bottle at Piatto's on Dundas with grilled Swordfish and Black Olive Tapenade - wonderful before, during & after!) 92

AQUINAS PINOT NOIR NAPA VALLEY 2010 , Napa Valley, California, 13.5%  D  2.9g/L, #277657  $17.95*  (Tasted August 14, 2013)  CS
. 
A General listing and a wine made by Don Sebastiani & Sons.  My notes: *Reduced to $15.95 until Nov. 10th. I couldn't find the price for this on the Aquinas website... however, other varietals from Don Sebastiani labelled 'Aquinas' were above $20US. This has a balanced aroma of chocolate, blueberry, a touch of earth and faint cinnamon with a see-through ruby, a plus for sipping interest. The film is moderate flowing fast legs from a continuous rim and the first sip, following a twenty minute airing, is medium-bodied, silky and dry with a background of mild acid and a flavour blend following the nose. Finishes long on the palate with a dry ending. Uniquely pinot noir, very pleasing to sip and would complement a tuna steak, planked salmon or breast of grouse/partridge roasted in a rich red wine sauce.  May cellar four years or so.   91

Niagara Trip - July 14-15

Cave Spring Promenade

We dropped our 6 month old pup, a shih-tsu named Jesse, off at our niece's in Burlington with all of the paraphernalia a playful furry whirling dervish has then we were underway for Niagara Peninsula and Wine Country.

Our plan was to pick up a few more wines tasted in June from

Picking a Fudge Sample

Daniel Lenko's winery then try as many samples from the wineries nearby biding our time until checking in to The Inn on the Twenty for a rest, supper and an overnight. We had been to Graze the Bench in June so concentrated on wineries further along King Street (Hwy 81).

Tawse Winery

Now with eighteen 'Lenko' bottles in the trunk we stopped at Malivoire, Tawse, Creekside and 13th Street (closed Sundays) then to Cave Spring in Jordan. On the Monday we were back at 13th

Creekside Winery

Street then to Pillitteri in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The plan was to include several more in NotL however the heat and humidity cut short our travels.

13th Street Winery

Our stay at The Inn on the Twenty treated us to an excellent four course meal followed by a quiet overnight waking to a French toast/sausage-plus-extras breakfast reviving us for the next round of wineries.
The CS Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay Dolomite with the dinner convinced us to purchase more.

Megalomaniac Tasting Room

On the return home we wound up then down the winding gravel to/from the bunker on the hill called Megalomaniac, with a style true to its name, and our way back to the concrete and asphalt of the QEW. Wines purchased at the wineries are listed below as well as a previous blog entry.


Cheers, Ww

LISTING:

• Tawse Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 89  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $32.15
• The Academy of Spherical Arts Pinot Noir 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 83  --  O,  Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $20.15

• Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Dolomite 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 89-2  --  O, Jordan, Ontario, #Winery $14.95
• Malivoire Melon 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 88-1  -- O,  Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $11.95 (375mL)
• Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chenin Blanc 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, 87-1  -- O, Jordan, Ontario, #Winery $15.90
• Malivoire Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 86  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $8.95 (375mL) 
• Malivoire Pinot Gris 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85 --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $19.95

(V - Vintages, G - General listing, O - Other, r-v - rating-value, a - aerated)

TASTINGS:

MALIVOIRE PINOT GRIS 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  Beamsville, Ontario, 12.0% D  2g/L,  #Winery  $19.95  (Tasted July 26, 2013)
.
Purchased from the winery on July 14, 2013. My notes: The 2012 vintage was released by Vintages on March 2, 2013. A delicate floral on opening adding a faint melon scent before fading. The colour is a polished pale yellow. A fragmented rim builds then recedes forming lacy patterns on the glass. Viscous on the tongue with a refreshing acid, a fresh melon apple then a touch  of dry mineral at the end. Acid and texture carries the day when served as a sipper or as a complement with seafoods. A welcomed summer cooler - I'd add an orange squeeze, a maraschino and one cube for interest, but that's me. A drink now. 85
 
MALIVOIRE CHARDONNAY 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0%  XD   2.6g/L,  #Winery  $8.95 (375mL), (Tasted August 10, 2013)
.
Purchased from the winery on July 14, 2013.  The 2008 vintage was part of a previous Vintages release (375mL, #960765) and priced at $10.95.  My notes: A pale yellow with a faint vanilla lemon zest scent and a rim that quickly sheds fast legs partly fragmenting as it falls. A smooth texture adds to melon and soft lemon flavours, medium-bodied and nicely tart with a long finish ending with slight chalk while retaining the tart. A Chard for Chard drinkers - for others it may be a compromise to ABC - likely not. Cellaring for several years could work some magic. Pair with Vij's Family Chicken Curry . 86

MALIVOIRE MELON 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.0%  XD   xg/L,  #Winery  $11.95 (375mL), (Tasted August 11, 2013)
.
Purchased from the winery on July 14, 2013.  My notes: This wine is not listed on the Malivoire website. A blond colour and a subtle nose, mostly citrus with a faint floral. The first sip brightens the palate with its sharpness and adds a touch of fresh Granny Smith apple both immediately appealing. The finish retains the flavour profile right to a dry end. A swirl leaves a thin viscous film with a lacy rim drained by long legs. This is a pleasing social sipper having enough flexibility to pair with fresh oysters, grilled white fish, curried dishes, crabcakes or Salmon Burgers with Hoisin and Ginger . Keep on hand for a year or two.  88 

CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED CHENIN BLANC 2011  VQA Beamsville Bench, Jordan, Ontario, 12.0% D  14.0g/L, #Winery $15.90,  (Tasted August 5, 2013)
.
Purchased from the winery on July 15, 2013.  My notes: A just detectable lemon lime nose and shows a light film that slowly recedes from a minimal rim gradually fragmenting into slow tears. There's a noticeable sweetness balanced with a gentle acid and soft citrus flavours providing fullness with each sip and going into a long citrus finish both refreshing and pleasing. A partner with lightly seasoned meals, we had with Angel Hair pasta with basil, parsley, tomatoes and grilled Zippered Back shrimp . Chill for sharing with guests as a starter to a grilled seafood meal or serve with/without a lime slice on a warm summer afternoon. The sweetness would pair nicely with sushi or Asian foods. A drink now. 87

CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY DOLOMITE 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Jordan, Ontario, 13.0% D  5g/L, #Winery $15.00,  (Tasted August 15, 2013)


Purchased from the winery on July 15, 2013.  A blend of 59% Chardonnay and 41% Chardonnay Musqué from the Beamsville Bench (85%), Cave Spring Vineyard and the Twenty Mile Bench (15%).  My notes:  A mid gold with a mild floral, crab apple and lemon fragrance.  A swirl leaves a firm film gradually building at the rim eventually dropping slow tears. The first sip bites with a sour crab apple flavour not excessively penetrating but sufficient to hold its own with a seafood pasta, cream or tomato - and has a silk and mineral texture. The dry mineral, not as much chalk as expected, coats the tongue while the flavour takes time to fade. A sipper for most and a buffet/meal white for everyone. 89


THE ACADEMY OF SPHERICAL ARTS PINOT NOIR 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Vineland, Ontario, 13.0%  D  xg/L, #Winery  $20.15  (Tasted July 18, 2013)

Tawse Tasting Bar

.
Purchased from Tawse Winery on July 14, 2013.  My notes: Grapes from the Academy Vineyard in Vineland, Ontario and produced for the Academy by Tawse..  A charcoal tinted see-through ruby with a soft black cherry nose. The film is thin releasing many fast tears from a solid rim. The first sip is light-bodied, satin smooth with delicate tannins and matching acid. A pleasing light red cherry flavour with a bramble accent leads a long dry finish - a reasonable social sipper. Perhaps difficult to pair, I'd try vegetarian pizza, a plate of lightly sauced roasted back ribs or bbq'd pork tenderloin. A drink now and likely past peak. 83   
.

TAWSE LAUNDRY VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Vineland, Ontario, 13.0%  D  4g/L, #Winery  $32.15  (Tasted July 23, 2013)

Purchased from the winery on July 14, 2013. My notes: The 2009 vintage was released by Vintages (#130997, $31.95) and was rated 91 by Natalie MacLean (August 5, 2011) and 90 by Rick VanSickle  (July 27, 2011). Charcoal hued ruby opaque to view. A sniff senses warm, crushed berries and a faint presence of clove and anise. A swirl leaves a viscous film draining from a continuous rim through long, instant legs. Silky smooth, bright on the palate with a polite acid and fine tannin on the swallow for a nicely medium-bodied sipper ending on a chalk dry note. No jam here with a well presented fruity Cabernet Franc. Pair with grilled beef on the mild side. May be past cellaring.  89

Ontario Rieslings 2013: 13 Tasted of 13

Much has been said about Riesling being a signature white grape for the Niagara wine region consequently I've selected a baker's dozen available from our local LCBO to explore possible variations in terroir and style of Rieslings from a dozen Niagara wineries.

There were only two criteria for selecting wines for this blog entry:

• Price <$25 give or take
• VQA level of a Bench or sub-appellation

Other than the budgetary consideration I don't believe in funding even part of a luxuriant lifestyle of the 'rich & famous'. I look for value and the higher the bottle price the more stringent is my scrutiny. (Other discussions: Ref 1, Ref 2 ) And secondly... I have as focus the theory that grapes of a type from one vineyard will have a different character, especially flavour, than those from another vineyard and those of one Bench to that of another. Retaining this difference should be a key factor in the style and process used by the respective winemaker.

The corollary is that blending across Benches, as in 'VQA Niagara Peninsula' and 'VQA Ontario', in my view, loses this emphasis on "Somewhereness" not that these two VQA levels don't or won't differ from other regions in Ontario and in Canada. 

IRF International Riesling Foundation

A previous blog entry, Niagara Appellations, describes in more detail the viticultural areas of the Niagara Peninsula. Essentially there are 2 super-appellations (Niagara Escarpment and Niagara-on-the-Lake) containing 7 (Short Hills Bench, Twenty Mile Bench, Beamsville Bench and Niagara River, Niagara Lakeshore, Four Mile Creek, St. David's Bench respectively) sub-appellations and there are 3 additional sub-appellations (Creek Shores, Lincoln Lakeshore and Vinemount Ridge).

With the exception of Niagara Lakeshore and St. David's Bench each area is represented in The Lineup below. For any of the ten sub-appellations to be named on the front label 100% of the grapes must come from that area.

Cheers, Ww

Ref: 

• Riesling Facts
• Sommeliers Perspective
• 2013 Riesling Committee and Contact Information

An aside: If you have used the LCBO search app on their website you may find it somewhat awkward and limited. For example: You'd think a major proponent of VQA accreditation would allow a search of their inventory for VQA levels, ie. VQA Niagara River, VQA St David's etc. Naaddaa! VQA levels aren't part of a Canadian wine on file.  Also every time a wine or number is searched it's erased and you have to start from scratch for your next search. Do that 100 times a week and it's time consuming. Also to find inventory in your area(s) you have to select the areas, 1 by 1, each time... no setting up personal settings. etc.

THE LINEUP:

• Tawse Quarry Road Vineyard Riesling 2012 VQA Vinemount Ridge, 90Cellar  --  V, Vineland, Ontario, #198853  $23.95  
• Greenlane Estate 'Old Vines' Riesling 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 90-1  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #283432 $29.95
• Malivoire Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara Escarpment,  89-2  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #277483 $15.95(now $13.95) 
• Henry of Pelham Family Estate Riesling 2010 VQA Short Hills Bench, 89-2  --  V, St. Catharines, Ontario, #557165 $15.95 
• 13th Street Winery 'June's Vineyard' Riesling 2011 VQA Creek Shores, 89-1  --  G,  St. Catharines, Ontario, #147512 $19.95
• Earth & Sky Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,  87-1  --  G, NotL, Ontario,  #343350 $14.95 
• Chateau des Charmes 'Old Vines' Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,  87-1  --  V,  NotL, Ontario, #277228  $16.95 
• Thirty Bench Riesling 2012 VQA Beamsville Bench, 87  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #024133 $18.95
  
• Cave Spring Estate Bottled Riesling 2011 VQA Beamsville Bench, 86  --  V, Jordan, Ontario, #286377 $17.95  
• Cattail Creek Family Estate Winery Riesling 2012 VQA Four Mile Creek, 85  --  G,  NotL, Ontario, #241547 $14.95 
• Reif Estate Winery Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara River, 83  --  G, Niagara on the Lake, Ontario, #111799 $11.95
• Vineland Estates Winery Dry Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 83 --  G, Vineland, Ontario, #167551 $13.95 
• Flat Rock Cellars Nadja's Vineyard Riesling 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 82  --  V, Jordan, Ontario, #578625  $19.95 

(V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated)

TASTINGS:

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES  'OLD VINES' RIESLING 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 12.5% D 8g/L, #277228   $16.95  (Tasted July 18, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on March 30, 2013. Rated 3.5 of 5 by Michael Pinkus (August 15, 2012).  My notes:  A nose with a difference, somewhat green apple with a hint of ground nutmeg and the colour is a delicate yellow. A thin film leaves a lacy rim dropping a few fast tears - the first sip is bright on the tongue drying the palate while adding a flavour of mild lemon with a hint of tangerine. Ends with a faint lemon/lime and mild chalk. Have with fish/crab cakes or grilled basil and tomato bruschetta. Best served 15oC+.  87

GREENLANE ESTATE  'OLD VINES' RIESLING 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Beamsville, Ontario, 10.4%  M  24g/L,  #283432  $29.95  (Tasted July 18, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on September 29, 2012 and rated 91 by Beppi Crosariol  (August 17, 2011).  My notes:  A slight pear and beeswax aroma from a green tinted polished delicate yellow. The film sticks then runs long slow legs. The first sip lays down a spicy acid with some sweet roundness that refreshes the palate and continues into a long finish ending with a dry mineral aspect, like licking wet granite. A patio sipper for a hot and humid Ontario summer or to pair with crab or lobster pieces. Cellaring may bring forward more minerality but drinking well now. 90

MALIVOIRE RIESLING 2011 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Beamsville, Ontario, 10.5%  D  18g/L, #277483  $13.95 (was $15.95)  (Tasted August 2, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on March 16, 2013.  My notes: Not present on the Malivoire website and price was reduced by the LCBO after purchase. The strength of the nose fades quickly on pouring although still retaining a noticeable apricot/lime blend with a mineral edge - a soft floral comes with some warmth (15oC). The colour is a natural yellow blond, sparkling bright and a swirl leaves a fragmenting rim shedding slow tears. Clean with an immediate Escarpment (chalk) dryness then a light lemon/lime touches the palate fading slowly to a dry mineral and lime ending. Has a moderate fullness and depth for a crowd or have with a grilled cod or soul fillet topping a mound of vegetable rice.  A drink now. 89

TAWSE  QUARRY ROAD VINEYARD RIESLING 2012 VQA Vinemount Ridge, Vineland, Ontario, 10.0%  D  20g/L, #198853   $23.95  (Tasted July 23, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on March 31, 2012 and rated 92 by John Szabo, MS  (August 2012)  My notes: A polished, light yellow colour and a scent that needs time to develop as the glass goes off chill, then a touch of beeswax and lemon. Chalk dry from the start leading into an intense lemon tartness and flavour. A light film leaves a fragmenting rim rapidly disintegrating into nodules on the glass. Ends with a long period of chalky lemon refreshing as a sipper - a tooth cleaner. Pair with a BLT, hard cheeses or grilled tilapia on a bed of Basmati rice. Still quite young - several years cellaring may evolve a rounder texture while retaining its light-bodied appeal.  90Cellar

CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED RIESLING 2011  VQA Beamsville Bench, Jordan, Ontario, 11.5% D 14g/L, #286377  $17.95  (Tasted July 16, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on April 18, 2013. My notes:  A faint scent of apples and a faded grapefruit colour followed by a soft acid and grapefruit flavour has appeal as a sipper by itself or with a tray of cheeses. Wonderfully rich when quaffed. The finish would be short except for a lasting acid and suspicion of sweet apple. Went well with steamed Nova Scotia lobsters flown in fresh with a returning traveller. A drink now.  86

CATTAIL CREEK FAMILY ESTATE WINERY RIESLING 2012 VQA Four Mile Creek,  Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, 11.5%  D  17g/L, #241547  $14.95  (Tasted July 8, 2013)  CS


A General listing. My notes:  A polished pale yellow with a thin film that runs a few fast legs and a mild aroma of limestone are the first senses. Then a sip adds a light citrus tang, a smooth seam and slight chalk edge ending soft on the palate. Attractive as a social sipper for its mid palate burst of flavour, a tactful acid and sweetness. Have with lightly seasoned grilled or poached white fish or shellfish. A drink now. 85

EARTH & SKY 2011 RIESLING VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NotL, Ontario, 12.5%  D 12.8g/L,  #343350  $14.95  (Tasted August 1, 2013)  CS


A General listing produced by Chateau Des Charmes owned by the Bosc family.  My notes: A well balanced social mixer with a delicate sliced dried apricot nose. The colour is a yellow blond and lays a thin film that runs long legs from a lacy rim on the initial swirl. The first sip brings a smooth texture and appealing apricot flavour with refreshing acid and a slight spice - best at 14-15oC.  Save a few for social happenings as a starter or as a flexible complement to a selection of seafood, rice dishes or chicken casserole. I don't see this cellaring long but a drink now to a year. 87

REIF ESTATE WINERY RIESLING 2010 VQA Niagara River, Niagara on the Lake, Ontario, 12.0%  D  13g/L, #111799   $11.95  (Tasted July 24, 2013)  CS


A General listing produced by the Reif Winery.  My notes:  Serve well chilled. A mid yellow colour with an aroma of lemon and slight vanilla on opening dissipating as the wine airs leaving mainly a softer scent.  A firm film leaves a continuous rim that slowly accumulates and sheds slow tears. There's an appealing burst of tart lemon seed flavour with a bite and dryness that lasts before ending with a mild crushed lemon seed ending. A hint of sweet, no more. Try pairing with Asian foods: sweet and sour chicken, pork fried rice with soy or lobster claws. Did not pair well with grilled chicken thighs in a yellow plum sauce. A drink now. 83

FLAT ROCK CELLARS NADJA'S VINEYARD RIESLING 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Jordan, Ontario, 11.0% D 14g/L, #578625  $19.95  (Tasted July 13, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on August 4, 2012. My notes:  A pale blond with a lime and green apple aroma suggests this to be a refreshing sipper. The film is thin quickly draining a fragmenting rim through long fast legs. The first sip has an acidic bite that quickly begs a prosciutto wrapped asparagus spear or plate of stuffed mushrooms. Not a sipper by itself. Flavours fade quickly leaving a slight oil on the lips and a chalk dry finish. Have with fresh oysters, grilled halibut or cod on a bed of Basmati sprinkled with soy or with lobster. A drink now. 82

VINELAND ESTATES WINERY DRY RIESLING 2011 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Vineland, Ontario, 10.0% XD  ?g/L, #167551  $13.95  (Tasted July 29, 2013)  CS


A General listing.  My notes: A light yellow with a green hue and a nose of lemon and a background spice aroma - perhaps anise. The film, with a swirl, is thin leaving a lacy rim and quickly draining to lots of small globules on the glass. The first sip shows the low alcohol, has a drying texture with low fruit and teeth cleaning acid. Could be a sipper with a buffet table of hard cheeses and stuffed mushrooms, etc. - if a social function I'd keep a backup. Pair with fresh oysters or an Asian dim sum. A commercial drink now. I've changed LCBO's M to XD.  83

THIRTY BENCH RIESLING 2012 VQA Beamsville Bench, Beamsville, Ontario, 10.6%  M 23g/L, #024133  $18.95  (Tasted July 29, 2013)  CS


Released by Vintages on April 18, 2013 and an Andrew Peller Limited wine.  My notes: A touch of lemon and soft spice on the nose with a thin film sticking then slowly fragmenting on the glass - a light blond colour. A touch of lemon and young grapefruit filtered of any sediment or pulp - a very clean, biting first sip. Retains a bright fruitiness initially then slowly fades to a mildly unctuous, chalk dry ending. Begs a buffet assortment of bacon bits and tomato bruschetta, pigs-in-a-blanket, fresh oysters or to be paired with grilled tilapia on a bed of mushroom risotto. For cellaring, still young, I'd try a year at a time. A drink now.  87

13TH STREET WINERY  'JUNE'S VINEYARD' RIESLING 2011 VQA Creek Shores,  St. Catharines, Ontario, 12.0%  D  16g/L, #147512  $19.95  (Tasted July 8, 2013)  CS

A General listing. My notes:  I have to stop admiring the bouquet so I can think how to describe it... it's floral with a touch of tropical fruit. A pale yellow and a thin film is the visual look then a sip puts a chalk layer in the roof of the mouth and tongue that comes before and after a burst of delicate keylime taste, just noticeably off dry. A tang and chalk continue for a long finish. Have with anything Asian or sip as a chilled cooler on a summer day. Cellaring? 89

HENRY OF PELHAM FAMILY ESTATE RIESLING 2010 VQA Short Hills Bench, St Catharines, Ontario, 11.0%  M  21g/L,  #557165  $15.95  (Tasted July 30, 2013)  CS

A Vintages release on June 22, 2013.  My notes:I swear there was a whiff of tangerine on opening that airs quickly leaving a just perceptible blend of lemon and apple on the nose. A light yellow colour and a thin film with a lacy rim that drains quickly leaving the glass bare. A silky first sip has a mild tang that's nicely balanced with Gala apple that includes a matching sweet note. A flexible white to have with Thai dishes with/without some heat, Asian with soft spices or coconut shrimp and Tempura vegetables. Keep a few on hand for that spontaneous party with Home Delivered Chinese or Japanese fare. Should be able to cellar for several years. 89