Saturday, March 07, 2009

The Inside Story: LCBO Promo 2009

Fourteen wines are featured in the LCBO glossy, The INSIDE STORY, received with this morning‘s G&M. The current promotion started March 1st and runs through to March 31st and recognizes the individual winemakers of the wines being featured.
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Also, ‘Meet the Maker’ cards picturing many of the winemakers, their wineries and more of their wines are posted in the Outlets, usually where the wines are.
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I’ve listed the fourteen wines giving the vintage that was illustrated in the promo. Wines that have been tasted will be shown in bold with its rating and, since a rating doesn’t tell the whole story, a tasting note will be added. Ten of the wines were found in Rod Phillips’ The 500 Best Value Wines in the LCBO 2009 and his Star rating (out of 5) is shown for each of these. The 2007 vintage for the Niagara region is said to be the best in many years and I would expect wines from this vintage to rate higher than previous years. All are on the General shelves with four of the fourteen 'sale' priced (>). Hope this is useful in some way. Cheers, Ww
  • #040501 Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007, RP3½, $11.95
  • #026278 Folonari Valpolicella Classico 2007 (1500ml) $17.45>
  • #028530 Terra d’Aligi Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2005, RP4½, $12.00 (84)
  • #580183 Giovello Pinot Grigio 2007 $11.80> (89-2)
  • #066266 Inniskillin Chardonnay 2006 VQA, RP3, $9.45>
  • #283291 Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling 2007 VQA, RP3½, $14.95 (88-1)
  • #052274 Mouton Cadet Réserve Medoc 2006, RP4, $16.95
  • #665406 Bouchard Aîné & Fils Pinot Noir 2006, RP4, $15.95>
  • #554378 Hillebrand Artist Series Gewurztraminer 2007 VQA, RP4, $10.95 (77)
  • #587907 Trius Merlot 2007 VQA, RP4, $14.95
  • #582825 Peller Estates Heritage Chardonnay 2007 VQA, $10.95
  • #665471 Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz 2006, RP4, $17.45 (81)
  • #285544 Penfolds 'Koonunga Hill' Shiraz/Cabernet 2006, RP4, $16.45 (89-1)
  • #079327 Mezzomondo Sangiovese Merlot Daunia 2007, $9.85 (88-2)
(r-v - Rating-Value)


TASTINGS:

TERRA D'ALIGI MONTE D'ABRUZZO 2005, Abruzzo, Italy, 13.0% D, #028530 $11.85 (Tasted June 9, 2008) 
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My notes: Terra D'Aligi, owned by the Spinelli family, produces this red which is 100% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo aged 12 months in Slavonia barrels. A black cherry skin colour with aromas of delicate blackberries, a soft bramble and a whiff of earth. There’s a brightness in the first sip followed by a well balanced combination of fine tannin, mild acidity and red berries leaving predominantly a dry red berry then a light woody ending. Very acceptable as a house red leaving most refreshed but waiting for hors d’oeuvres of sausage pieces, shaved meats or bruscetta. Quaff with red sauced pasta dishes or triple cheese pizzas. A drink-now. 84
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GIOVELLO PINOT GRIGIO 2007, Veneto, Italy, 11.5% XD, #580183 $11.80 (Tasted March 9, 2009)

A General listing described as “Pale straw colour; mineral, spice, pineapple, pear, green apple aromas; light- to medium-bodied with crisp, mineral flavours; dry, zesty finish. Serve as an aperitif, or with raw oysters, veggie dishes. My notes: A floral and spice nose and a light golden colour in the glass makes this appealing to the initial senses. Then a nicely nippy flavour takes over with a pear, suspicion of pineapple and apple and leaves a long flavour blending with a bright mineral ending. An interesting extra dry sipper to pair with fresh oysters, chicken wings, chorizo sausage pieces in a tomato sauce or varied pasta dishes. Cellaring may mellow, accentuate the spicy side and integrate the whole - I’d try a year at a time. A bargain for a dry 'fish white'. 89
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HENRY OF PELHAM RESERVE RIESLING 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Niagara, Canada, 12.0% D, #283291 $14.95 (Tasted March 12, 2009)

A General listing described as “Mid-yellow/straw colour; melon, apple and grapefruit with a hint of spice; grapefruit, apple and spice on the palate; intense yet refreshing acidity followed by a clean finish. Serve with shellfish; smoked salmon; creamy pasta.” My notes: I found the 2006 vintage tasted in January 2008 ‘uninteresting’ with ’insufficient fruit, acid or body’ rating it Ww78. By comparison, the 2007 vintage has a light golden colour with distant stone fruit aromas. It’s light-bodied, dry, with grapefruit, melon or pear tainted flavour carried by a mildly rounded texture and finishing with a balanced fruit and touch of spice. I’d call this a somewhat shy riesling - no kerosene taint but an approachable white suitable for shellfish, halibut, sole, freshwater pickerel or just sipping on a warm day. A drink now to be served to anyone. 88
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HILLEBRAND ARTIST SERIES GEWURZTRAMINER 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 12.5% D, #554378 $10.95 (Tasted September 27, 2008)

My notes: Andres Wine Ltd. produces this brand which has a scent of grapefruit and faint stagnant pond, perhaps the ‘spice’ in the gewurz, not distressing, just noticeable. The first sip is round with a fresh nip and a blend of mild honeydew and spice. The flavours fade further as the finish becomes drier with a light steely edge through to the end. I could not enjoy this as a straight sipper. I’d put it in the category of a ’recipe’ wine with a seam of acid, spice and a ‘rounding agent’ adding a touch of fruit - perhaps I’m not familiar with the terroir. Have with a buffet of dips and spreads or with freshwater fish, grilled sole or haddock. A drink now. 77

JACOB'S CREEK RESERVE SHIRAZ 2006, South Australia, 14.0% D, #665471 $17.45 (Tasted March 11, 2009)

A General listing described as “Opaque dark red; aromas of cedar, anice, black fruit; black fruit flavours with a toasty medium-long finish. Serve with BBQ meats or vegetables. My notes: A Wyndham Estates brand. The 2004 vintage tasted in May 2008 was found to be ‘too tart and chalky dry to be sipper’ and ’Gets high marks for nose then falls off on what counts’ rated Ww79. The 2006 vintage is an opaque violet tinged ruby with a thin film and fast legs. Decant and let stand for twenty minutes minimum. There’s a mild sting in the nose as a fragrance of dark berries and light shellac meet the senses. Prominent chalky tannin, acid and anise remain in the long finish as the initial surge of blackberries, chocolate and liquorice - evenly portioned - provides some interest then shifts. My interest shifted as well with successive sips finding the combination of flavours and finish too assertive to be a sipper. This could be a good companion with a pepper steak, grilled back ribs or strongly seasoned stews. A ‘serve with discretion’ shiraz that’s not likely to mellow with cellaring. 81 
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PENFOLDS 'KOONUNGA HILL' SHIRAZ/CABERNET 2006, South Australia, 13.5% D, #285544 $16.45 (Tasted March 12, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Purple/red colour; cassis, eucalyptus, mint and herb aromas; dry, full bodied with smooth, rich, plummy flavours and a long, spicy finish. Serve with grilled lamb, pepper steak or roasted meats.” My notes: The 2004 vintage was tasted in July 2007 with the comment ‘… flavours of plums and black cherry but a lingering oak … and a balanced nip to a velvety texture.’ and ‘A commercial red that comes across as authentic varietal… a value.’ The 2006 vintage has a slate tinge to the deep ruby and there are slow tears to a light film on the bowl. Peppery blackberries make up a warm aroma and the first sip is very bright with leather and blackberry flavours ending with consistent bright fruit and spice. Leaves the palate dry but not masking the fruit making this a balanced sipper. Would be great with flavourful mushroom caps, bacon wrapped asparagus spears or a gorgonzola spread. Pair with grilled portabello mushrooms, roast beef or lamb dishes to complement the chef’s work. Cellaring for up to four years should mellow some youthful rawness. 88

MEZZOMONDO SANGIOVESE MERLOT DAUNIA 2007, Puglia, Italy, 13.5% D, #079327 $9.85 (Tasted March 9, 2009)

A General listing described as “Medium ruby red colour; candied berry aromas with red fruit notes; dry, with a burst of fruit flavour and notes of herb. Serve with vegetarian focaccia sandwiches or veal on a bun.” My notes: The nose has a pleasing fragrance of sweet cherries and new leather as soon as the cork is pulled. There’s a sharpness, steady and almost aggressive, masking flavours of wild red berries that have dried in the sun. The tartness and tannin then fruit carry through to a lingering light licorice - would have been harsh without the merlot. Suitably paired with seasoned ground beef and rice rolled in limp cabbage leaves and slowly simmered in a spicy tomato and onion sauce. Not a sipper - a drink now and priced so there’s no need to skimp on the pourings. 88

Sunday, March 01, 2009

March 2009 Wines: 25 Tasted of 25

These wines are bought on spec. throughout the month. When tasted the wine will appear in bold and resequenced by rating. Cheers, Ww
  • Sebastiaan ‘High Constantia’ 2003, 96-x -- O, S. Africa, Lot #3728 $na
  • Saltram of Barossa ‘Mamre Brook’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 95-3 -- V, Barossa, Australia, #048579 $21.95
  • Water Wheel ‘Bendigo’ Shiraz 2006, 95-3 -- V, Victoria, Australia, #700815 $18.95
  • d'Arenberg ‘The Custodian’ Grenache 2006, 93-2 -- V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #713040 $21.95
  • Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2006, 92-3 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #677559 $16.95 
  • Stella Bella Shiraz 2006, 92-2 -- V, Margaret River, Australia, #048553 $20.95
  • Clos de Los Siete 2007, 92-2 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #622571 $23.95
  • Graffigna Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 90-2 -- V, San Juan, Argentina, #060202 $17.95
  • Casa Nueva Carmenère 2003, 88-2 -- O, Molina, Chile, CP152-2746 $13.08
  • Santa Julia Magna 2005, 88-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #093799 $14.95
  • Alamos Pinot Noir 2007, 88-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #507822 $13.95
  • Alamos Pinot Noir 2006, 88-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #507822 $14.25
  • Alamos Malbec 2007, 87-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #467951 $13.95
  • De Bortoli ’Windy Peak’ Pinot Noir 2008, 87 -- V, Victoria, Australia, #048587 $18.95
  • Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, 86-1 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #467944 $13.95
  • Palatine Hills Gewürztraminer VQA Niagara Lakeshore 2006, 86-1 -- G, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #101493 $13.95
  • Wyndham Estate Bin 525 Shiraz Grenache 2008, 85 -- G, Dalwood, Australia, #096826 $16.45
  • Farnese Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007, 81 -- G, Ortona, Italy, #621912 $7.55

  •  Soljans Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007, 90-2 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #091223 $17.95
  • Graffigna Centenario Pinot Grigio 2007, 89-2 -- V, San Juan, Argentina, #093732 $14.95
  • Reif Estate Gewurztraminer 2006 VQA Niagara River, 88-1 -- V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #127985 $14.95
  • Les Coteaux Tufiers Vouvray Demi-Sec 2006, 84 -- V, Loire, France, #057018 $15.95
  • Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois White 2007, 84 -- V, Napa, California, #665166 $19.95
  • Stella Bella Chardonnay 2007, 82 -- V, Margaret River, Australia, #102061 $21.95
  • Cavit Collection Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2007, 81 -- G, Venezie, Italy, #099218 $11.65
(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)
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TASTINGS:
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REIF ESTATE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2006 VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, 14.0% D, #127985 $14.95 (Tasted March 23, 2009)

A Vintages release on Marh 14, 2009 described as “Typical Gewürztraminer notes of
ginger spice and citrus are easy to identify amongst the exotic scents found as you raise glass to nose. The aroma also reveals a real soapy/lanolin note. In the mouth, this is full and round, with prominent canned pear and ginger spice notes and an almost-honeyed texture. It is a terrific match for Asian-influenced or roast poultry dishes. (3 of 5, Christopher Waters, Nov./Dec. 2007).” My notes: Won a bronze in the 2008 All Canadian Wine competition however tasting notes aren’t available on the winery website. Labelled as a Semi-dry Gewurz I wanted to compare styles and flavours with Palatine’s Niagara Lakeshore (#101493). Similar in colour but fainter in nose, this is a light straw with stone fruit and lemon tang aromas. There’s a noticeable tang in the first sip mellowed out somewhat by honey and flavours of apricot and melon tinged with ginger. A few sips tempers the taste buds for a long finish of sweet apricot accompanied by a persistent but light ginger - nice. Oysters, cantaloupe and melon pieces with frozen yogurt, Asian or Thai fare could pair nicely. The sweetness mellows out a bit as the acid builds making this a delectable quaffer for a hot day. 88
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LES COTEAUX TUFIERS VOUVRAY DEMI-SEC 2006, Loire, France, 12.0% MD, #057018 $15.95 (Tasted March 24, 2009)
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A Vintages release on January 31, 2009 described as “This is a delicious, gentle, medium-dry Chenin Blanc. Look for delightful honeyed aromas, a lush palate packed with apple and citrus fruit as well as nutty notes leading to a long, rich finish. A terrific value, this wine would be great now as an aperitif or served with spicy Asian dishes, but it will continue to develop over the next 5-10 years.” My notes: Based on the chenin blanc grape this is a off-dry white with a pale straw colour. This lacks a honey tone in the nose or any perceptible fragrance but a touch of both shows up in the first sip. Lightish bodied with a just-noticeable sweetness and flavours of pear and Granny Smith apple followed by a polite chalky finish. An amenable sipper or aperitif with light finger foods. Have with grilled fresh water fishes, crab cakes, telapia or sea bass. I doubt if there’s sufficient to develop past two years. 84
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PALATINE HILLS GEWURZTRAMINER VQA Niagara Lakeshore 2006, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, 12.75% MD, #101493 $13.95 (Tasted March 22, 2009)

A General listing described on the back label as “… bursts with fragrances and flavours of grapefruit, melon, apricots and honey. … “ My notes: A golden colour and light honeyed citrus aromas, a dry but round texture followed by a sharpness mellowed by a suspicion of melon and peach stone. Natural sugars are nicely balanced by spice and acid making this a tasty off dry aperitif. The finish has a short spurt of flavour that subsides leaving a long spicy nip as a reminder. Served well chilled it’s a refreshing sipper, Alsatian style, and would be suitable with Asian fare or a mixed Bento box of tempura shrimp and vegetables. Cellar up to two years. 86
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GRAFFIGNA GRAND RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, San Juan, Argentina, 14.5% XD, #060202 $17.95 (Tasted March 4, 2009)
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A Vintages release on December 6, 2008 described as “… This refined Cab offers aromas of ripe blackcurrant, with notes of toast and cocoa that carry through on the palate along with an intriguing herbal note. Enjoy this now with red meat dishes, or let it evolve for 2-3 years in the bottle.” My notes: A rich deep ruby and a fragrance of wild black berries from the glass. There’s long slow legs with light staining of the bowl and a first sip that’s silky smooth adding a steely veneer to flavours of bright blackberries. The finish is long, clean and dry continuing with berries and an increasing mineral note. Medium- to full-bodied having a lot of character to mull over as a sipper - likely preferable paired with ‘red meat dishes’. I don’t see this cellaring much longer - taste again after a year. 90
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GRAFFIGNA CENTENARIO PINOT GRIGIO 2007, San Juan, Argentina, 13.5% XD, #093732 $14.95 (Tasted March 2, 2009)
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A Vintages release on February 28, 2009 described as “Pale peach skin color. Subtle, clean aromas of melon and flowers. Supple and juicy, with surprising intensity to its sweet peach flavor. Nicely concentrated pinot grigio with a firm finish. (88/100, Stephen Tanzer, Jan./Feb. 2008)” My notes: A faint golden colour and a grapefruit and nettle tainted nose. There’s a sharp nip on the first sip and flavours of almost ripe melon and stone fruit. The finish ends on mostly a stone fruit note, even vegetable, with a mineral emphasis. Give ten minutes for the nose and flavours to develop then it’s an interesting sipper - not for everyone tho‘. Match with white fishes or shellfish, grilled or in a light pesto sauce. Somewhat round suggesting sweetness but none that I detected. 89
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STELLA BELLA SHIRAZ 2006, Margaret River, Australia, 14.0% D, #048553 $20.95 (Tasted March 1, 2009)
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A Vintages release on February 28, 2009 described as “Light and spicy bouquet and supple and lush on the palate, with well-defined varietal fruit flavours and an intense and crisp finish. Lovely complexity. A totally faultless wine. (4 of 5, Winestate, May/June 2008)” My notes: This is very appealing in the glass having a purple hue to a deep ruby, a thin film without staining and slow tears. The aroma is a mix of cherries, light blackberries and a touch of milk chocolate. Medium-bodied, silky, bright with a stemmy edge but loads of blackberries and finishing dry with ample spicy berry - a soft pepper eventually shows. It’s hard not to gulp - would go well with bacon bits and tomato bruschetta, stuffed mushroom caps, pizzas, hamburgers or rack of lamb. This may be at peak now and could remain so for several years. 92
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SANTA JULIA MAGNA 2005, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #093799 $14.95 (Tasted March 2, 2009)
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A Vintages release on February 28, 2009 described as “… a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Malbec and 10% Syrah. ‘This is drop-dead gorgeous; run, don't walk, and pick up a case. Drink now, after a two-hour decant and on to 2014. Crushed dried berry and dusty mineral on the nose it explodes on the palate with rich concentrated and succulent flavours of raisined dark berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and dollops of thick creamy black raspberry jam. It's still underpinned by grainy tannin, but will soften with bottle age. It's medium to full bodied, fully textured and delicious on the well-balanced lengthy finish. (4½ of 5, Vic Harradine, Nov. 22, 2008)’” My notes: From Familia Zuccardi, producers of Fuzion Shiraz Malbec 2007, #083188 $7.45 (Ww80, November 2008). There’s a violet tinge to the rich ruby colour, quite appealing in a glass. The nose is a spicy red cherry and the flavour comes across as a cherry-berry compote with balanced acid and fine tannins. Medium-bodied finishing dry on the palate with crushed cherry stone and cedar . Should go well with prime rib, teriyaki pork chop, turkey wings or ham steak. I didn’t wait long enough for the explosion or the ‘dollops of thick creamy black raspberry jam‘… LOL. A basic 'ripasso-lite'. 88
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CLOS DE LOS SIETE 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% XD, #622571 $23.95 (Tasted March 3, 2009)
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A Vintages release on January 17, 2009 described as “Deep coloured, this has lovely floral aromatics together with ripe but not jammy summer fruit aromas. There's a bit of spice, too. The palate is nicely poised with sweet but well defined dark fruits and good acidity. This isn't jammy or super-ripe, which is a good thing. But the alcohol is evident, and the tannins are a little drying and grippy in the mouth, and they clamp down the finish somewhat. It's a beautifully packaged wine that offers great value for money, and without those rather drying tannins it would get a higher rating. (90/100, Jamie Goode, Sept. 29, 2008)” My notes: A Michel Rolland wine and a label I tasted in April last year (Vintage 2005, Ww91) and in December 2006 (Vintage 2004, NR). A blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah the colour is a deep violet ruby with aromas of spice, plum and black cherry. There’s a firm film and slow legs suggesting the full-bodied texture which shows on the first sip. Smooth with balanced tannins and spice mixing with blackberry and earthy oak in more of a European meal red. An OK sipper if you don’t mind youthful tannins but should be cellared a few years to allow it to peak - gets points for potential. 92
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WYNDHAM ESTATE BIN 525 SHIRAZ GRENACHE 2008, Dalwood, Australia, 14.5% D, #096826 $16.45 (Tasted March 4, 2009)
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A General listing described briefly as “Excellent with game meats or roast chicken in red wine sauce.” My notes: Blend details aren’t given on the Wyndham website however the nose is a spicy floral representing both grapes well. Kind of a plush ruby and the first sip has the soft texture of ripe berries brightened by a polite white pepper seam, silky smooth. The finish is long, fruity with balanced tannin and acid making this a sociable sipper - nothing complex or remotely controversial. A drink now, a commercial red appropriate for a mixed crowd. Quaff with nachos, pizzas, hamburgers or spaghetti and meatballs. 85
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ALAMOS GIFT PACK 'THE WINES OF CATENA' MALBEC 2007 & CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, #601252 $29.95
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Vintages released the Gift Pack on October 25, 2008 with this description: “Argentina's reds are really gaining altitude among wine lovers right now. And this intensely flavourful, deeply coloured duo illustrates why. Both the deep violet Malbec - arguably the country's most distinctive red variety - and the garnet Cab originate from the Mendoza region, in the shadow of the majestic Andes.” My notes: I thought I’d try three 2007 vintage varietals from the Catena family vineyards by adding the Pinot Noir from the February 28, 2009 Release to this duo pack.
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ALAMOS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #467944 $13.95 (Tasted March 7, 2009)
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Vintages released the 2007 on January 31, 2009 with this note “… Bistro-styled and made for early and easy drinking, look for coffee and earthy tones on the nose then a solid core of tang and zest from cranberry and pie cherry flavours. There's generous texture, ripe tannin and a nicely balanced dry finish. This pairs extremely well with pasta in tomato sauce, try lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese. (3½ of 5, Vic Harradine, Aug. 16, 2008).” My notes: This has an inviting deep ruby colour and a nose that is fragrant with black fruit and well worn leather, just a touch of spice with mostly ripe fruit. A reasonable film and slow tears show then a nicely balanced fruit, tannin and acid flavour/texture combination that’s not aggressive at all making for easy quaffing. There’s a touch of barn in the flavour and also comes out in the finish that could detract - but there‘s also a ripple of pleasing fruit. Have with hamburgers, chili con carne, lamb chops or grilled portabello mushrooms. 86
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ALAMOS MALBEC 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #467951 $13.95 (Tasted March 6, 2009)

My notes: A Vintages release, the 2007 vintage appears to be only available in the duo gift pack. Quietly aromatic with scents of bramble, berries and dried mint, a combination that is both inviting and soft on the sniffer. Smooth and dry with fine tannins and a mild acid continuing with woody berries into a long dry finish. On the thin side of medium-bodied, very sip-able and acceptable as an economical house red. Have with bacon on a bun, prime rib, roast turkey, liver and onions or steak and kidney. A straight forward drink now. 87

ALAMOS PINOT NOIR 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #507822 $13.95 (Tasted March 13, 2009)

A Vintages release on February 28, 2009 with this note: “Argentina's Catena family harnessed two high-altitude vineyards in Mendoza, the core of Malbec country, for an effort that mixes honest bright cherry fruit with the moist, earthy nuance that's almost nonexistent in less-expensive Pinot. (Jon Bonné, San Francisco Chronicle, Sept. 26, 2008).” My notes: The 2007 has a deep strawberry colour with a gentle aroma of beetroot and red currant. Not much of a film on the bowl but there are several slow tears in clusters on the glass. Air for twenty minutes then the flavours settle to a cherry, subtle mint, almost milk chocolate blend quite unique and still appealing. The finish has a fine tannin dryness and a soft acid carrying the flavours. Not outstanding but a good value. Held it’s own with cabbage rolls and roast carrots. Should cellar well for several years. 88

ALAMOS PINOT NOIR 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.0% XD, #507822 $14.25 (Tasted March 13, 2009)

My notes: Last tasted in February 2008, the 2006 vintage Pinot from Catena was rated Ww88 with the comment: “… A delectable sipper... Have with a tray of chocolates, any light meat or meat look-a-like, it's a tad thin so not too spicy… A good value for a very fresh pn.” After a year cellaring …. the 2006 has the same colour, nose and body as the 2007 and definitely more legs show on a swirl. A touch more velvet smoothness on the first sip with the same balance of fruit, acid and tannins - only side by side tastings show this difference. A polite sipper with enough warmth in the finish to build anticipation for the next sip. Too close to warrant a rating difference and I'd cellar either vintage for at least two years. 88

SOLJANS ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% XD, #091223 $17.95 (Tasted March 14, 2009)

A Vintages release on March 14, 2009 described as “The easy-drinking 2007 vintage is a single-vineyard wine, medium-bodied, with fresh, ripe tropical-fruit flavours and a smooth finish. (3 of 5, Michael Cooper, 2008).” My notes: A pale blond colour with a crisp gooseberry aroma, refreshing just to sniff. The first sip is just as crisp and refreshing, full of fruit then trailing off on a mineral and herbal note. Dry on the tongue and cleansing on the palate this makes for a good seafood white or with fresh oysters. The smoothness should develop with two years in the cellar - not longer tho’. 90

WATER WHEEL ‘BENDIGO’ SHIRAZ 2006, Victoria, Australia, 15.5% XD, #700815 $18.95 (Tasted March 18, 2009)

A Vintages release on March 14, 2009 described as “The 2006 Water Wheel Shiraz has a delicious compote of dark berry flavours, licorice allsorts and sweet spice. An earth minerality and fine grained yet chalky tannins tame any excessive or extroverted behaviour.” (90/100, James Halliday, Nov. 2007).” My notes: A warm aroma of ripe blackberries wafts from the bowl and the opaque ruby backgrounds the first sip. Soft, spicy, dry and full of fruit, perhaps now with a few blackcurrants, completes the wonder of this elixir. You could get the impression I enjoyed sipping this Shiraz? The combination of full-bodied flavour and outstanding texture went well with a medium-rare beef tenderloin and would with any grilled meat entrée. This should cellar four or more years and provide a reasonably tasty red to draw from for special happenings. 95

FAMIGLIA BIANCHI MALBEC 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% XD, #677559 $16.95 (Tasted March 18, 2009)

A Vintages release on March 14, 2009 described as “Focused and pure, with good concentration and balance to the red currant, raspberry and plum fruit, which is layered with hints of shaved vanilla and mocha on the finish. Drink now through 2009. (89/100, James Molesworth, June 30, 2008).” My notes: The 2002 and 2005 vintages of Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon drank well at two years and their decline, after four to six years in the cellar. The 2006 Malbec is of the same style showing definite oak tones while retaining freshness in the fruit and cellaring at least a few years should be OK. The colour is a purple ruby and a thin film sheds tears quickly. Odours of vanilla blended with cedar and dark berries come in advance of fresh berries, drying tannins and a crisp brightness. The ‘old world’ accent on top of a fruity Malbec may disenchant some - it’s interesting and airing mellows it significantly. The finish is dry, long and characteristically vanillin. Have with rack of lamb or an eggplant casserole. 92

CAVIT COLLECTION PINOT GRIGIO DELLE VENEZIE 2007, Venezie, Italy, 12.0% D, #099218 $11.65 (Tasted March 16, 2009)

A General listing described as “Pale straw; light lemon-apple aroma and flavour; light bodied with a clean finish. Serve as an aperitif.” My notes: A light blond with an almost discernible floral fragrance, extra dry and lightly stringent on the first sip leaving a short flavour of apple and stone fruit and ending on a lemon and mineral note. Not much of interest as a lone sipper. Light-bodied and better with oysters or with celery pieces and cream cheese, hummus on dry crackers or sliced chicken breast on greens. Was just OK with scallops in a lemon and vodka sauce and whole wheat linguine. Would lose presence with flavoured seafood dishes. 81

SEBASTIAAN ‘HIGH CONSTANTIA’ 2003, S. Africa, 13.8% D, Lot#3728 $na (Tasted March 20, 2009)

An Opimian wine described on the winery website as “Estate flagship, refined aromas, elegant, complex, soft and round, ripe red and black berries, good mouth feel. Very smooth, excellent potential for developing in the bottle ... Only the best barrels were selected to blend into this flagship wine. This wine is a child of the 2003 vintage which was one of my best vintages to date, superb fruit, good mid palette and mouth feel, this wine is sure to be a winner like all of the previous Sebastiaan’s…” My notes: A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec all from a single vineyard. A deep ruby and a full whiff of candied plums as the cork is pulled followed by a sniff of ripe dark fruit in the bowl. Tears are slow to form and the first sip is both clean and soft in texture and rich in flavours. An elegant sipper changing with each sip, the complexity shifting into a long warm finish. An excellent balance of process and fruit resulting in a unique spectrum for sipping or dining. Have with rare grilled or roasted meats, game, liver and onions or a steak and kidney pie. Has long term cellaring potential but drinking well now. 96

FOLIE À DEUX MÉNAGE À TROIS WHITE 2007, Napa, California, 13.5% D, #665166 $19.95 (Tasted March 17, 2009)

Vintages released this on February 28, 2009 describing it as “Ménage à Trois demonstrates what happens when you put three attractive grapes in one exquisite bottle. Chardonnay makes the wine rich and firm, the Moscato is an exotic exhibitionist, and the Chenin Blanc soft and supportive. Together they make the perfect threesome.” My notes: US$12 and $20Cdn - sign of a monopoly or solving Ontario’s looming deficit? Blend percentages are not given on the website although seems fairly equal in our tasting. Let air briefly for soft aromas of stone fruit, pear and a slight spice. There is a perceptible roundness in the first sip followed by a light dryness and flavours of pear and faint stone fruit. A suspicion of sweetness coats the palate followed by a reminder of dry fruit that fades quickly. A sociable sipper likely to raise a murmur of approval but no applause. Good with fresh water fish, shrimp, scallops or mild vegetable dishes. A $15Cdn value that could cellar up to a year. 84

D'ARENBERG 'THE CUSTODIAN' GRENACHE 2006, McLaren Vale, Australia, 14.5% D, #713040 $21.95 (Tasted March 19, 2009)
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Vintages released this on March 14, 2009 describing it as “E: Deep red. Very fresh aromas of raspberry, cherry and blackberry. Smooth and seamless, with deeply concentrated, nicely focused red fruit flavors, no apparent tannins and slow-mounting sweetness. I suspect that some Old World palates will find this a bit lacking in nuance but I really like its freshness and clarity of fruit. (90/100, Josh Raynolds, Sept./Oct. 2008)” My notes: I enjoyed several of the d’Arenberg reds that were part of the ‘Blending Game’ blogged last September and this label is new to me - I had to include it this month. A violet glint to the ruby colour and an earthy tinge to the herb and strawberry nose. Let air a short while for a silky texture and fresh fruit flavours that burst then trail off to lengthy bright fruit and fine tannins. An interesting sipper, already matured sufficiently for a drink now but could cellar several years softening to velvet and possibly adding mahogany nuances. Have with rack of lamb or grilled red meats, pepperoni pizza, beef stroganoff or shank of lamb. 93
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CASA NUEVA CARMENÈRE 2003, Molina, Chile, 13.5% XD, CP152-2746 $13.08 (Retasted March 25, 2009)
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My notes: Cellared March 2004 and tasted several times since this has a deep ruby colour still, no terra cotta as yet. Open an hour beforehand. The nose is of bright plums and black cherries and offers slow tears on the bowl with a few swirls. Full-bodied with a tangy seam and flavours of red cherries, liquorice and lasting tannins leaving a dry touch to the red cherry/anise blend. Opimian recommended this to be consumed the first year but this has shown some longevity now being silky and well blended, process with fruit. I enjoyed this as a sipper but compared with fruit forward Chilean reds this may come across as somewhat ‘musty‘. Would be good with grilled meats, bbq’d ribs or tomato pastas. 88

FARNESE MONTEPULCIANO DABRUZZO 2007, Ortona, Italy, 13.5% D, #621912 $7.55 (Tasted March 28, 2009)
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A General listing described as “Blackberry, cedar and mild spice aromas; ripe, mouthfilling black cherry/berry fruit. Serve with hearty stews, crown roast, spicy pasta. Pizza or BBQ fare.” My notes: The 2005 vintage was tasted October, 2007 with a rating of Ww80 and the comment “What can you say for $7... “ Colour and nose hasn’t changed for 2007 - a ‘granite toned ruby’ and ‘barely a nose’. Smoother and more delicately flavoured, a cherry and dark berry with a well managed tartness and soft tannin. Medium-bodied, a noticeable film with long legs, the finish retains some silkiness, light fruit and a touch of tar. Suitable with cheesy pizzas or cannelloni, mild Italian sausage, light tomato pastas or risotto dishes. ’Farneto Valley’ has been dropped from the label. It’s OK for a limited budget and still want ’wine’. 81
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STELLA BELLA CHARDONNAY 2007, Margaret River, Australia, 13.0% D, #102061 $21.95 (Tasted March 29, 2009)
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A Vintages release on March 28, 2009 described as “Winner of a Gold Medal at the 2008 Margaret River Wine Show. Very developed nose, with rich, toasty oak aromas and pleasant citrus fruit flavours enhanced by the oak and the developing secondary characters. 3-5 [years]. (4 of 5, Winestate, Nov./Dec. 2008)” My notes: Having rated the Stella Bella Shiraz (#048553, Ww92) I wanted to try their Chardonnay. This has a slight stagnant pond aroma that dissipates with several minutes airing leaving a subtle aroma of stone fruit and melon. The colour is a light straw and the first sip is a soft melon/grapefruit blend with a slight tang and roundness. A tangy seam refreshes while the flavours decline slowly not having a chance to fully develop, almost as if this was from a rainy vintage or even past peak. Has a freshness that could go well with freshwater fishes or shell fish hors d’oeuvres. Best as a sipper, a hard to pair meal white and overall not a value. 82

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DE BORTOLI ‘WINDY PEAK’ PINOT NOIR 2008, Victoria, Australia, 13.0% D, #048587 $18.95 (Tasted March 30, 2009)
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A Vintages release on March 28, 2009 described as “It offers clean and clear varietal character with cherry and red berries, lemon rind, a touch of spice and even a hint of smoky undergrowthy Pinot mystery. Light to medium bodied and pleasantly ripe with pippy red fruits, a touch of tamarillo like bitterness and a lick of spice - it's dry and fresh and offers light grippy tannin and a good red fruited finish… Drink: 2008-2011. (89/100, Gary Walsh, Sept. 24, 2008)” My notes: The Deen Vat 10 Pinot Noir 2006 (#061622, $15.95) was tasted in February 2008 with a rating of Ww86. A different vintage and label, three dollars more and rated marginally higher the ‘Windy Peak’ has a deep cherry colour with a light strawberry rim that frames a sniffing zone of a just perceptible strawberry scent. Light-bodied, with no apparent sugar notes but with drying tannins that give the cherry and light berry flavour full presence. Finishes fresh with the delicate fruit lasting a short while as the warmth builds and carries on. A sipper that wouldn’t disappoint lovers of a gentle pinot - more new world than old. Could cellar for several years but not gain much. 87
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SALTRAM OF BAROSSA ‘MAMRE BROOK’ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, Barossa, Australia, 15.0% XD, #048579 $21.95 (Tasted March 31, 2009)
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A Vintages release on March 28, 2009 described as “A powerful, intense, full-bodied palate with blackcurrant and mulberry varietal character; stout tannins and oak underline the structure. Drink [until] 2020. ( 93/100, James Halliday, Oct. 2007).” My notes: I haven’t seen a Saltram in Vintages since their ‘Mamre Brook’ Shiraz 2000 (#906677, $19.95) in 2005. This has a lovely deep ruby plum shade with strong aromas of a rich cherry compote, suitably spicy yet sweet. The texture is smooth well seamed with a spicy nip and firm tannins followed by dense currants and a mahogany finish. A full-bodied, bold sipper having a bite and slight tar for the back of the palate to anchor a long finish. Saltram has the knack for having a difference and this is a welcome shift in the cabernet sauvignon spectrum. Close to peak altho’ could be cellared for several more years. Have with grilled beef, lamb shank or flavoured stews. 95

Saturday, February 07, 2009

Red Wines 101, 2009: LCBO Promo

Educate your senses: Between the glossy folded in with my G&M this morning and the spiral booklet available at the LCBO Outlets there are forty-five reds in the current Red Wine 101 promotion. I decided to 'educate my senses', admittedly differently and very analytically than that intended, by looking at two aspects:

1. How many wines made it to Rod Phillips’ book titled 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO, 2009? and 2. Have I tasted any of these wines in the past?

1. Twenty-two of the 45 reds were included in Rod’s book. I have not listed them here not wanting to duplicate the author’s efforts but a breakdown of Rod’s ratings for the twenty-two is: None at 5 Star (94-100), eight 4 ½ Star (90-93), ten 4 Star (87-89), three 3 1/2 (85-86) and one 3 Star (82-84).


2. Of the 45 reds thirteen were previously tasted and archived in this blog and are listed below. Shown in parentheses is the date of my tasting, a rating when available and the vintage and price if either differs from that shown in the promos. My past notes are repeated below for convenience and because a rating doesn't tell the whole story. I thought the format and the information of both glossies was exceptional. Cheers, Ww



  • Wyndham Estate Shiraz Bin 555 2005, South Eastern Australia, #189415 $16.15 (Tasted December 08, 2007, Retasted June 18, 2008 -- 91-2)
  • MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #619205 $11.95 (Tasted November 27, 2008 -- 90-2, $10.85)
  • Pascual Toso Malbec 2007, Maipu, Argentina, #035170 $12.95 (2005 Vintage Tasted October 08, 2007 -- 90-2)
  • Chapoutier Côtes Du Rhône Villages Rasteau 2006, Rhône, France, #321539 $17.15 (Tasted March 4, 2008 -- 88-1)
  • Stoneleigh 'Marlborough' Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough, NZ, #054353 $19.95 (Retasted February 26, 2009 -- 86)
  • De Bertoli Deen Vat 10 Pinot Noir 2006, South Eastern Australia, #061622 $15.95 (Tasted February 12, 2008 - 86)
  • Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja 2003, Rioja, Spain, #137810 $18.45 (2002 Vintage Tasted May 15, 2008 - 86)
  • Montecillo Crianza La Rioja 2005, Rioja, Spain, #144493 $14.75 (Tasted April 19, 2009 -- 83)
  • Château Puyfromage 2006, Bordeaux, France, #033605 $16.80 (Tasted October 1, 2008 -- 81, $15.95)
  • Trius Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, #587956 $14.95 (Tasted September 30, 2008 -- 80, $12.95)
  • Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2007, Central Valley, Chile, #341602 $10.10 (Tasted September 04, 2007 -- Ww79, 2005 Vintage Tasted March 16, 2006 - Not rated, $9.95)
  • Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir 2006 VQA Ontario, Niagara, Canada, #013904 $17.95 (2004 Vintage Tasted September 28, 2006 -- Not rated, $16.95)
  • Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Carmenere 2007, Central Valley, Chile, #620666 $12.95 (2005 Vintage Tasted August 3, 2006 -- Not rated, $11.85)
 (r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

MONTGRAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 14.0% D, #619205 $10.85 (Tasted November 27, 2008).


My notes: A deep violet tinged ruby with slight spicy currant and blackberry aromas and slow legs. An attractive mint with noticeable tannin trails off to a bright black currant flavour that’s smooth and full of spice. The finish is long ending with a tasty currant and blackberry making this a surprisingly bold sipper by itself. Better with finger foods from bacon stuffed mushroom caps to shaved proscuitto and strong cheeses or with pepperoni pizza, rack of lamb or grilled steaks. If you like medium-bodied with a bite this is a real value that may improve with a few years in the cellar. Serve with discretion. 90

PASCUAL TOSO MALBEC 2005, Maipu, Argentina, 13.4% D, #035170 $12.95 (Tasted October 08, 2007)

My notes: This is more of a violet colour with a ruby tint making a lovely intro to aromas of blackberry and cherry. A mellow softness with flavours of mint, mulberry, peach with fine tannins and mild tartness. The finish is quite long mostly of peach fuzz and bright mulberry. A well balanced sipper, full-bodied but not assertive. Cellaring for a few years should be OK... longer is questionable. A value go-anywhere fruit driven red - 'Old world'? don't think so!. 'Barnyard'? not this bottle. Pair with turkey with fixings, roast chicken, veal schnitzel and spaztle, mushroom and beef pastas, prime rib or beef Wellington. 90

CHAPOUTIER CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES RASTEAU 2006, Rhône, France, 14.0% D, #321539 $17.15 (Tasted March 4, 2008)

My notes: An opaque (unfiltered) violet ruby with aromas of black cherries and a slight floral strawberry. Air at least an hour before serving. There is a strong bite on the first sip with a long tart spiciness and firm tannin masking a dark fruit finish, full-bodied and bold. I found it rough and raw... too young for my sipping and recommend *cellaring four years. Pair with seared savoury steak, bbq'd ribs, likely roast game - not roast chicken. Surprising to me (Yes! I'm naive) the General listing doesn't indicate cellaring. 88

DE BORTOLI DEEN VAT 10 PINOT NOIR 2006, South Eastern Australia, 13.5% D, #061622 $15.95 (Tasted February 12, 2008)

My notes: Produced for the export market, this has a see-thru ruby colour with a strawberry tint and aromas of crushed strawberries and soft smoke that slowly fill the bowl. Light-bodied, bright first sip, minty, with flavours of new berries mostly straw- with some red cherry. The finish is long, dry leaving some bright fruit remnants to savour. A lightly flavoured quaffer for pre-dinner sipping with or without cheese twists or veggie flatbread nibbles. Pair with planked salmon, cold turkey pieces and lingonberry, grilled pineapple and ham slices. This could be cellared for a few years perhaps acquiring a silky texture and more prominent spice - perhaps wishful thinking. Suitable for family and friends at any time of the day. 86

CHÂTEAU PUYFROMAGE 2006, Bordeaux, France, 12.0% D,#033605 $15.95 (Tasted October 1, 2008)

My notes: I had to try this Bordeaux after reading Margaret Swaine's account of having it with duck: “Puyfromage happens to be one of the most popular Bordeaux wines in Ontario, selling over 6,000 cases last year. Others besides me therefore obviously agree with his (frugal brother’s) taste.” The LCBO likely sells as many cases of French Cross... so what?! This Bordeaux has a dull ruby glow in a broad bowl and a faint aroma of red cherries if you sniff hard. A film and slight tears form and the flavour is of bramble berries and fine tannin, bright on the palate. The finish is quite drying and smooth with a persisting light oak. A lightish medium-bodied meal red with good texture. Have with nibbles or a pork roast, turkey breast or a crockpot stew. A drink now to four years. 81

TRIUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 13.0% D, #587956 $12.95 (Tasted September 30, 2008).

My notes: Discounted $2 from a regular price of $14.95, a Hillebrand label and an Andres Wines Ltd. Winery. This has a garnet cast deep ruby colour and, on swirling, a viscous film shows on the glass with aromas of faint oaky sweet cherry. Medium-bodied with a grainy texture and flavour a combination of cherries, red currants and minerals. The finish tapers off gradually and is well balanced acid, fine tannin with a layer of ‘dried fruit'. Have with pepperoni pizza, ribs or chili con carne. Even discounted it's not recommended. A drink now. 80

CONO SUR PINOT NOIR 2007, Central Valley, Chile, 14.0% D, #341602 $10.10 (Tasted September 04, 2007)


My notes: A light to mid ruby colour with aromas as on the label... pretty accurate but faint. Flavours are not immediately apparent but build into an inkling of crushed cherries and red berries, crisp on the palate. The finish is warm with just a touch of natural sweetness that softly recedes to a mineral edge. Have with roast chicken breast pieces on greens, planked salmon topped with crushed walnuts, a ham slice with honeyed yams or a wild mushroom and three cheese pizza. A drink-now and OK if you're looking for a dry lite. 79

CONO SUR PINOT NOIR 'VARIETAL RANGE' 2005, Rapel Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #341602 $9.95 (Tasted March 16, 2006)

My notes: The colour is a light ruby with a rose tinge. The nose is light medicinal with no apparent fruit type. Flavours are mineral with slight tannins and an uninteresting finish. Not a sipper and too light in body and flavour for pairing with foods. Best to skip the 'Range' tier from Cono Sur imho.

CONCHA y TORO CASILLERO DEL DIABLO CARMENÈRE 2005, Central Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #620666 $11.85 (Tasted August 3, 2006)

My notes: Very light aromas of plums and tobacco, and a deep ruby colour. Flavours are of plum, berry and vanilla with some nice acid and light tannin to balance. The finish develops with berries and tar sitting smoothly on the palate. Should complement both mild and flavourful cheeses, sausage pieces or beef kebobs - and, if you like dry reds, it's a sipper. A red for spicy pizzas, hamburgers, ribs, etc. I don't think cellaring will develop this wine further - more of an economical drink-now.

 HENRY OF PELHAM PINOT NOIR 2004, Niagara, Canada, 13.0% XD, #013904 $16.95 (Tasted September 28, 2006)

My notes: The LCBO website (as of writing) lists the HofP Pinot Noir (nonReserve*) as a case of 12x62mL - it was shelved correctly. A medium ruby colour with faint aromas of spice and tobacco evenly balancing a light berry fruit. Flavours as well are balanced finely producing a light- to medium-bodied hint of raspberry and tobacco with a nondescript juice, perhaps the beetroot. The finish 'verges on silky' with a soft tannin and a spice note. A clean pinot but an uninteresting sipper, more of a food wine - with mushroom risotto, cold or open face chicken sandwiches - a hard wine to pair with meals.... I'd skip this vintage.

STONELEIGH
'MARLBOROUGH' PINOT NOIR 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% D, #054353 $19.95 (Retasted February 26, 2009)

My notes: Last tasted April 20, 2008 this bottle was purchased this week from the General shelves. About the same comments as last: ‘a dusty ruby with a strawberry hue’ and ‘aroma of dark plums and wild strawberries’ perhaps now with an earthier accent. There’s a touch of silk in the texture and delicate flavours of wild strawberry and stringent cranberry with light tannins and a complementing acid. Still young it may improve with cellaring, maybe two more years, although the fruit isn‘t as prominent so I‘d call it more of an extra dry drink now. The finish is long, smooth and bright with persistent flavours., a light tannin and acid, OK as a sole sipper - better with rack of lamb, sliced turkey with lingonberries, prime rib au jus, or a mild cheese tray. 86

MONTECILLO CRIANZA LA RIOJA 2001 , Rioja, Spain, 13.0% XD, #144493 $14.95 (Tasted April 19, 2009)

My notes: An Osborne label - the 2001 vintage was previously purchased for $14.95 in December 2005 This has a deep ruby and an aroma of stewed cherries tinged with light oak. - not much though. A swirl brings a thin film and slow tears. Then a sip shows some finesse combining soft berries with fine tannins, a mild spice and acid, all nicely balanced, light- to medium-bodied and smooth when aired thirty minutes. The finish is fairly short starting with meagre flavours and declining from there ending cleanly. An ambiguous dry sipper - take it or leave it. Would pair well with tomato side dishes and sliced beef or, better, pork tenderloin with a smooth gravy. Not for cellaring - a drink now. 83

CAMPO VIEJO RESERVA RIOJA 2002, Rioja, Spain, 13.0% D, #137810 $18.00 (Tasted May 15, 2008)

My notes: A mid ruby colour and delicate fragrances of smoky plum, red cherry and cinnamon. Its brightness combined with a smooth texture makes this an interesting sipper; flavours of minty cherry and a crisp edge gives it a long finish ending on a mineral note. A rioja, in this case, blending 75% tempranillo with 15% graciano and 10% mazuelo the white giving a bright red even more life as well as adding a spicy fragrance. Likely at peak now and if the occasion is a pasta night it would fit in well or serve with tapas, tomato bruschetta, or pizzas, veal parmigiana. 86

WYNDHAM ESTATE SHIRAZ BIN 555 2005, South Eastern Australia, 14.5% D, #189415 $16.15 (Retasted June 18, 2008)


My notes: This is a General listing last tasted in December 2007 and rated Ww91. (The 2004 vintage was tasted at the same time with a Ww90 rating). This has a deep red plum hue with aromas of rich blackberry tinged with smoky cherry. Medium-bodied to full-, a velvety texture with a burst of blackberry then a mintiness that brightens the palate with layers of flavour. The finish is extended by a firm tartness until the flavours and brightness slowly fade making this an interesting sipper - a new world fruitiness and edge of spice. Sip or pair with beef bourguignon, a well seasoned rack of lamb, burger patties with grilled portabello mushrooms. Cellaring for several years is possible… tho’ not likely to improve over today’s tasting. 91

Sunday, February 01, 2009

February 2009 Wines: 27 Tasted of 27

These wines are bought on spec. throughout the month. When tasted the wine will appear in bold and resequenced by rating. Cheers, Ww

LISTING:
  • Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. (RP94-100), 94-3 -- V, Paso Robles, California, #738823 $17.95<
  • Sonsierra Rioja Reserva 2002, 94-3 -- V, Rioja Alta, Spain, #094920 $20.95
  • Terrazas de Los Andes Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, (RP90-93), 93-3 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #077776 $18.95
  • Telteca Anta Reserve Malbec 2004, 92-2  -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #093690 $20.95
  • Chateau La Clotte-Fontaine Mathiérou 2001, 92-2 -- O, Languedoc, France, CP149-2543 $19.17
  • Chakana Andean Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, 91-2 -- V, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, #663161 $13.95
  • Water Wheel Memsie 2007, (RP87-89), 90-2 -- V, Bendigo, Australia, #656637 $13.95
  • Terre Domini Valpolicella Ripasso La Vigilia 2006, 90-2  -- V, Veneto, Italy, #103606 $18.95
  • Bonterra ‘Mendocino County’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, (RP90-93), 90-2 -- V, Hopland, California, #342428 $19.95
  • Liberty School Syrah 2005, 88-1 -- V, Paso Robles, California, #942383 $17.95
  • Chateau La Clotte-Fontaine Cuvée Mathiérou 2000, 88-1 -- O, Languedoc, France, CP144-2266 $15.92
  • Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection’ Green Label Syrah-Shiraz 2006, 88  -- V, Geyserville, California, #090068 $24.95
  • Gutturnio Colli Piacentini La Stoppa 2006, 87 -- V, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, 102822 $19.95
  • Stoneleigh Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007, 86, G, Marlborough, NZ, #054353 $19.95
  • Castellblanch Brut Zero Cava Reserva NV, 84 -- V, Penèdes, Spain, #094813 $15.95
  • Bonterra ‘Mendocino County’ Merlot 2006, 84 -- V, Hopland, California, #984724 $19.95
  • Errazuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Noir 2007, 80 -- V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #510396 $19.95
  • R.H. Phillips ‘Night Harvest’ Shiraz 2005, (RP87-89), 80 -- G, Woodbridge, California, #576272 $13.95

  • Wandering Piano by Gravitas Sauvignon Blanc 2006, 92-3 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #091017 $15.95
  • Borgo Magredo Pinot Grigio 2007, 90-2 -- V, Fruili, Italy, #072389 $16.95
  • Bonterra ‘Mendocino County’ Chardonnay 2006 & 2007, (2006, RP90-93) 90-2 -- V, Hopland, California, #342436 $18.95
  • Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2008, 88-1 -- V, Coastal Region, S. Africa, #948620 $13.95
  • R.H. Phillips Toasted Head Chardonnay 2007, (2006, RP87-89), 88-1 -- V, Woodbridge, California, #594341 $17.95
  • Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2006, (RP87-89), 83 -- G, Manteca, California, #068932 $16.95
  • Millton ‘Opou Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2006, 82 -- V, Gisborne, NZ, #092478 $23.95
  • D'Arenberg ‘The Hermit Crab’ Viognier Marsanne 2007, 76 -- V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #662775 $17.95
  • Alamos Viognier 2007, 75 -- V, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, #507830 $13.95

(G - General listing, V – Vintages, O - Other, RP - 500 Best-Value Wines 2009, Price - <> down, r-v - Rating-Value)
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TASTINGS:
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CHAKANA ANDEAN WINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, 14.0% D, #663161 $13.95 (Tasted February 3, 2009)

A Vintages release on January 31, 2009 described as “… snappy example produced by a small family-owned winery in Mendoza. Sourced from 30-year-old vines, it's a lively Cab full of black cherry and dark fruit, with hints of spice, leather, tobacco, and toasty oak. Match it to grilled sirloin steaks marinated with only olive oil, salt and pepper.” My notes: The Chakana Malbec 2007 tasted last July was rated Ww91 and a ‘real value’ so I had to taste their cabernet sauvignon. This has a deep black cherry skin colour and aromas of spicy cherries combined with just a few blackberries. A firm tannin precedes a burst of blackberry cherry blend with a tart seam almost the level of wild berries. The finish is long and full of ripe berries ending with some bright liquorice. A smooth, full-bodied, bold sipper but not objectionably so it can be sipped by itself. Better with cocktail sausages or bacon stuffed mushroom caps or have with rack of lamb, prime rib, back ribs or grilled pepper steak. While a good value as a drink now this should cellar well two to four years making it a super value. 91
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ERRAZURIZ WILD FERMENT PINOT NOIR 2007, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #510396 $19.95 (Tasted February 1, 2009)
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A Vintages release on January 31, 2009 described as “… the name of this wine … refers to the wild airborne yeasts that are naturally present on grapes in the vineyard, and result in dramatic flavour complexity. This wine shows attractive cherry and strawberry fruit accented by floral and smoke notes, with a lengthy finish.” My notes: The 2005 vintage was released on May 12, 2007 with a local reviewer giving it 4 ½ or 90 - 94 on the 100 scale. Just tells you how much I differ saying “… not a sipper, not a value.” This vintage has a subtle aroma of warmed cherries and is a full ruby with a violet cast in a wide bowl. Added to that is a light-bodied satin texture with a flavour of crushed cherry stones, a dry balance of acid and fruit followed by a finish that has a short cherry flavour profile ending on a stewed tea or beetroot note. Hors d’oeuvres are needed with this red… or tuna fish with a mild Dijon sauce or plank salmon with teriyaki. Not my ‘cup of tea’ for sure. The ferment was too wild, i.e. little elegance, imho. Cellaring up to four years may help. 80

TELTECA ANTA RESERVE MALBEC 2004, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #093690 $20.95 (Tasted February 5, 2009)

A Vintages product . I selected this bottle from the product listing of B&W Wines, the distributor in Ontario. The winery claims “Due to our desert, temperatures range between night and day allows the bunches to ripe in a very delicate way, obtaining a profound varietal personality. Deep colours with violet tinges. The nose, soft and elegant ripe prunes and vanilla aromas can be appreciated. Red berry flavours and rounded tannins are present in the mouth. A long, persistent, honey-like and balanced wine. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate - 92/100.” My notes: This has a deep violet hue, a thin film on the bowl leading to a few slow tears. The aroma is subtle and has the fragrance of freshly crushed blackberries and a few spicy black currants. The first sip shows a bright and light berry-currant flavour with a smooth texture, medium-bodied and finishes dry with a naturally tartness. A nicely balanced fruit forward sipper and a reasonable companion to grilled beef or rack of lamb. It would be interesting to revisit after four years in the cellar… likely would do well. 92
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GUTTURNIO COLLI PIACENTINI LA STOPPA 2006, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, XD 13.5%, #102822 $19.95 (Tasted February 3, 2009)

A Vintages product described as “Evidently a concentrated, ambitious blend of Barbera and Bonarda here, with curious wet hay, old wood, stewed fruit/prune, a touch of brett and intensely earthy notes. Dry, concentrated, fullish, high acid and moderate but very firm tannins. This is loaded with flavour but will likely appeal to fans of old style, funky Italian reds. This will shine more when served with flavourful rustic fare. John Szabo - 88/100.” My notes: I selected this bottle from the product listing of B&W Wines, its distributor in Ontario. This has a deep mahogany colour and needs twenty minutes in the glass for the ‘Brett’ in the nose to subside leaving a slight fragrance of prunes. The first sip is bright introducing a blend of cherries and figs then finishes with an image of sweetness - but it is medium-bodied and dry. Evenly bright on the palate and ends with a long and soft herb tone. A passable sipper altho’ European for sure and more of a meal red. Have with anything with a sweet tomato sauce and either cheese, beef, pork or lamb based. 87
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MILLTON OPOU VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2006, Gisborne, NZ, 13.0% XD, #092478 $23.95 (Tasted February 3, 2009)

A Vintages release on January 31, 2009 described as “The sophisticated 2006 Opou Vineyard Chardonnay is one of New Zealand's finest: a very Burgundian nose with tangible minerality with honeyed-scents developing in the glass, a palate that reminded me of a Meursault from Dominique Lafon. (93/100 Neal Martin, April 2008). My notes: This has a deep golden colour with a whiff of warm butter and peach stones. The firm film on the glass develops long slow legs altho I'd call it light-bodied. There are scant fruit flavours but a pebbly mineral aspect predominates with a dry texture and nicely balanced acid. The finish seems to have a reminder of mandarin orange. I’d call this an unimpressive drink-now more appropriate as a seafood accompaniment but still quite delicate - more 'Gisborne' than 'Burgundian'. Have with crab cakes, garlic shrimp skewers, bacon wrapped scallops or mussels in a mild sauce. Not a value imho. 82

CHATEAU LA CLOTTE-FONTANE CUVÉE MATHIÉROU 2001, Languedoc, France, 13.5% XD, CP149-2543 $19.17 (Retasted February 4, 2009)

My notes: Last tasted in March last year and rated Ww91. Sixty percent Grenache and the remaining of syrah the website calls it ‘deep, fleshy, elegant, pleasant with back olives and liquorice notes.’ This was purchased from the Opimian Society and cellared in December 2004. The deep ruby violet has a garnet cast and the aroma needs a few minutes to develop in the bowl, then a subtle smoky cherry fragrance. Long slow legs form indicate a full round texture on the first sip with lots of interesting flavours: vanilla, bacon, currant, liquorice and cherry berry, a mixture needing your complete focus making this a provocative old world sipper. The finish is moderate given its complexity but ends on a satin liquorice note that lasts forever. Have with beef in a blanket (Wellington), prime rib, stew or lamb shank. Still cellaring well. 92

CHATEAU LA CLOTTE-FONTANE CUVÉE MATHIÉROU 2000, Languedoc, France, 13.5% XD, CP144-2266 $15.92 (Retasted February 6, 2009)

Previously… Ordered June 2002 and cellared November 2002 Opimian claimed “This is the finest and possibly the fullest of the wines of the Midi that we have tasted. Cellar five years minimum.” I last tasted this in September 2006 before Ww ratings were started and noted at that time “The flavour and texture come together to reward each sip.” My notes: There is a vivid violet hue to a colour deep as freshly crushed blackberries and an aroma that is subtle berries. Full-bodied with an acid seam that starts slowly and builds until flavour takes the focus to ripe blackberries, liquorice and oak resins - in equal portions. Interesting but too hearty as a sipper needing fatty finger foods or to accompany braised lamb, a grilled pepper steak or a rich stew. The old world character won’t change with continued cellaring - at peak now and could last several more years. 88

GNARLY HEAD CHARDONNAY 2006, Manteca, USA, 14.5% D, #068932 $16.95 (Tasted February 18, 2009)

A General listing from Delicato Vineyards and described as “The wine will compliment pork loin and chicken dishes as well as a variety of seafood (lobster, shrimps).” My notes: This has a light straw colour, a nose of lemon-lite touched by stagnant pond - the latter airs quickly - and a thin film with fast legs when swirled. There’s some mineral aspect to flavours of mostly ripe apples, peaches and honey dew melon - an offdry finish gives the mineral and tang more focus. An interesting sipper when allowed to warm slightly and for the texture to show some creaminess. Have with mild cheese and meats, sliced chicken breast on greens, lobster or crab and fresh water filets. A drink now. 83

R.H. PHILLIPS TOASTED HEAD CHARDONNAY 2007, Woodbridge, USA, 14.5% D, #594341 $17.95 (Tasted February 13, 2009)

A Vintages release on October 11, 2008 described as “The name Toasted Head refers to the barrels used to age this wine. Usually, only the barrel walls are charred but, in this case, the heads are toasted too. The resulting wine is filled with aromas of smoky apple-cinnamon, pear, vanilla and toasty oak. Full-bodied with a medium-long finish, it's a perfect companion to roast pork with apples, or a Wellington made with smoked salmon.” My notes: This has a soft gold colour in the glass, crystal clean. The nose is a buttery lemon drop slightly sweet and spicy. The first sip asserts itself on the buds as a bright, clean burst of buttery lemon drop then falling off to the seam of tang that’s underneath. With seasoned catfish filets and green beans the full flavour and tang countered nicely the marinade. This makes a lively sipper but with some roughness I would prefer to have with finger foods… chicken fingers or crab cakes. A drink now. 88

BONTERRA ‘MENDOCINO COUNTY’ CHARDONNAY 2006 & 2007, Hopland, California, 13.5% D, #342436 $18.95 (Tasted February 9/10, 2009)

A Vintages Essentials described as “Bonterra uses only organically grown grapes in all of their wines. The nose shows attractive aromas of banana, melon and peaches along with hints of caramel, vanilla and oak. It's dry, vibrant and packed with fruit and is a 'natural' selection for grilled red pepper or eggplant dishes.” My notes: A Fetzer wine. There was mixed vintages on the shelf so I thought I’d do a short ‘vertical. The 2006 has a soft gold colour and fresh aromas of banana, cream and delicate citrus. A firm film with lots of fast tears on the bowl and a first sip that is well rounded, full of lemon juices but with less bite than the real thing and just a touch of sweetness. This is a well balanced sipper with flavours and brightness that last a long time on the palate. Delectable for the money and should keep for a few years. Have with a variety of seafood dishes or perhaps a sliced ham steak. Perhaps not surprisingly for a commercial wine, the 2007 vintage has the same colour, nose, tears and undetectable (for me) difference in flavours and finish. 90 (for both)
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R.H. PHILLIPS ‘NIGHT HARVEST’ SHIRAZ 2005, Woodbridge, California, 13.5% D, #576272 $13.95 (Tasted February 10, 2009)

A General listing described as “Medium ruby colour; aromas of smoked meats,black cherry and mocha; dry and medium-bodied but tasting almost sweet at first with dark berry fruit, soft texture with low tannins and balanced acidity; hints of smoke and a spicy cedar finish with light tannins on finish. Serve with grilled beef, lamb or glazed duck, gourmet burgers.” My notes: The colour is a deep dullish ruby with aromas that include a blackberry based jam and a bit of Brett - airing a short while helps. A good film leads to long fast tears and a smooth medium-bodied texture, bright with a very slight spice and a nice acid level. A berry cherry comes through in the finish with a persistent brightness at the end - but includes a taint of Brett (barnyard) and the jamminess. An Ok sipper for the price but not my recommendation. Have with hamburgers or pizzas. 80

LIBERTY SCHOOL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006, Paso Robles, California, 13.5% D, #738823 $17.95 (Tasted February 12, 2009)


A Vintages Essentials described as “This delicious Cabernet teaches the meaning of value. Its nose is intense with concentrated dark fruit, particularly cherry and plum, complemented by spicy and savoury notes. It's dry, dense and richly textured with great balance and ripe tannins. For continuing education, enjoy anytime over the next 2-3 years with braised or roasted beef dishes.” My notes: This has a purple tint to the ruby red and a nose of subtle oak and blackberries, just a tinge of sweet fruit. The texture is full and soft with a ripe fruit tartness and silky tannins. The finish is moderate ending with a possible currant edge. A delightful sipper, full of flavour, appropriately dry and building in warmth and interesting nuances. A drink now with a possible two to four years cellaring. Have with red meat dishes. 94

BONTERRA ‘MENDOCINO COUNTY’ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006, Hopland, California, 14.0% D, #342428 $19.95 (Tasted February 12, 2009)

A Vintages Essentials described as “This Cabernet uses only organically grown grapes. The extra effort rewards with pure and polished aromas and flavours of cassis, cherry, roasted herbs, licorice and ripe blackberry all wrapped in silky tannins with a medium-long finish. Toast the cooler months by serving with rosemary-and-thyme-rubbed veal chops, or with a hearty lasagna of beef, zucchini and eggplant.” My notes: A ruby colour with a violet tone and a cherry liquorice nose, somewhat reserved even elegant. There’s a thick film with long tears on the bowl and the first sip has a smooth texture balanced with flavours of black cherries and gentle acid. The finish starts with a burst of flavours followed by a thin oak veneer and warmth from the alcohol. Half way to a European style and interesting by itself this would also pair well with prime rib or rack of lamb. A drink now. 90
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D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER/MARSANNE 2007, McLaren Vale, Australia, 13.5% D, #662775 $17.95 (Tasted February 18, 2009)

A Vintages release on February 14, 2009 described as “… a blend of 58% Viognier and 42% Marsanne. It received a dollop of oak for a rounder texture. The alluring aromatics offer floral notes, candle wax, and pit fruits. Smooth-textured and ripe, the wine also has excellent depth and length. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years. (90/100, Jay Miller, Aug. 2008). My notes: This has what I often refer to as a stagnant pond nose, not objectionably so but not much Viognier nor Marsanne character to contribute floral or fruit aromas. Perhaps some would call it ‘nutty’ or ‘candle wax and pit fruits’. There is a very thin film leading to few to no tears and the first sip has a distant flavour of apple skins and mangos. The ’pond’ doesn’t carry thru’ to the finish and as a sipper it has good balance of dry acids and smooth texture - still a disappointing solo. Have with light fowl or fish. Was passable with salmon pot pie. Not for cellaring - a drink now and not a value. 76

ALAMOS VIOGNIER 2007, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, 13.5% D, #507830 $13.95 (Tasted February 15, 2009)

A Vintages release on February 14, 2009 described as “This crisp and clean Viognier shows off the pretty aromatics of the variety with delicate citrus blossom, apricot, peach and floral notes. Medium-bodied with deliciously concentrated fruit flavours and a medium-long finish. Enjoy with Thai red-curry chicken or grilled shrimp.” My notes: This is the fifth varietal from Alamos in this blog - Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Chardonnay - previously all good values until this one. The colour is a light straw and nose is a melon and stagnant pond, marginally acceptable. Served chilled it’s nicely rounded with flavours of peach fuzz and melon peel finishing dry on a sour unripe melon tang with the pond persisting. Better with seafood pastas, spicy Thai or a cheese fondue than as a sipper. Not a value. 75

WATER WHEEL MEMSIE 2007, Bendigo, Australia, 14.5% XD, #656637 $13.95 (Tasted February 17, 2009)

A Vintages release on February 14, 2009 described as “This proprietary blend is consistently one of Australia's best quality values. The 2006 vintage scored 90 points… The newly released 2007 is comprised of 70% Shiraz, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Malbec, and 6% Petit Verdot and again overachieves with loads of dark fruit flavours, peppery spice and refined tannins on a solidly built frame.” My notes: A ruby red in the glass and a soft aroma of blackberries and white pepper meets the nose. A swirl creates a slow film with bunches of tears and a sip stings the back of the throat with flavours of blackberries and an unknown herb along with mild black pepper. This has a long complex flavourful finish with a pronounced spicy spine. A different, the Malbec and Petit Verdot combination, and interesting red sipper, aggressive with a silky smoothness - not for everyone. Better with at least seasoned bruschetta or a meaty pizza, rack of lamb or pepper steak. Should be able to cellar this four+ years. 90

LIBERTY SCHOOL SYRAH 2005, Paso Robles, California, 13.5% D, #942383 $17.95 (Tasted February 13, 2009)

A Vintages release on January 10, 2009 described as “It's labelled 'California' but the fruit in this is from Paso Robles ... this is a well-made and well-priced Syrah with a core of sweet fruit, layered flavours, dry tannins, and a refreshing texture. It's a great partner for barbecued red meats. (4 of 5, Rod Phillips, June 4, 2008).” My notes: A nose that’s a combination of raspberries, slight earth and a soft spice. This needs to sit a short while for the flavours to settle into a blend of raspberries, leather, a touch of white pepper all carried by a silky texture and balanced tannin and acids. The finish is mostly bright and dry fruit then ending on a metallic note. An OK sipper, try a gulp at a time, but mainly a meal red. Have with prime rib or rack of lamb, seasoned stews or pepperoni pizza. This could cellar for up to four years methinks but is drinking well now. A medium-bodied European style Syrah with some fresh fruit. 88 
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TERRE DOMINI VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO LA VIGILIA 2006, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% XD, #103606 $18.95 (Tasted February 15, 2009)
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A Vintages release on January 10, 2009 described as “The impressive nose features raspberry, vanilla bean, underbrush, berry pie, cranberry and a hint of chocolate. Dry with very good aroma replays on the palate. It is quite well-proportioned and structured with very good balance and poise. Drink it tonight with spicy meat lasagna or beef stew. It will also reward cellaring up until 2011. (VINTAGES panel, Oct. 2008).” My notes: Made from Corvina and Rondinella grapes then passed over fresh Amarone grape skins. There is a deep purple hue to the ruby colour and an aroma of warm black cherries, almost indiscernible tho’. The texture is smooth with drying tannins and flavours of stewed plums and a seam of acidity. The acid carries through the finish as the plums fade but leave a compote coating on the palate. An old world style in which process is blended with flavours of rich fruit making this an interesting, bold sipper. Better to have with Italian spaghetti and meatballs, veal scallopini or cheese and meat lasagna. 90
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FRANCIS COPPOLA ‘DIAMOND COLLECTION’ GREEN LABEL SYRAH-SHIRAZ 2006, Geyserville, California, 13.5% D, #090068 $24.95 (Tasted February 19, 2009)
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A Vintages release on January 17, 2009 described as “This 'One from the Heart' of California stars the Syrah (aka Shiraz) grape, producing a multi-layered yet easy-drinking wine. Here you'll find a montage of flavours including blackcurrant, blackberry, licorice, pepper and cocoa. A blockbuster wine that will complement back ribs or meaty pastas.” My notes: A deep violet ruby in a wide bowl and smoky blackberry on the nose. The first sip has a pepper edge, a bright seam and blackberry flavours unfolding in that order. The finish is mostly blackberries, dry, smooth and spicy on the palate, and fairly lengthy making this a tasty sipper. Have with bacon wrapped anything, prime rib, grilled back ribs or savoury steaks. An uncomplicated drink now and cellaring for a few more years should be OK but not a long term collector. 88
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BORGO MAGREDO PINOT GRIGIO 2007, Fruili, Italy, 12.0% XD, #072389 $16.95 (Tasted February 17, 2009)
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A Vintages release on January 31, 2009 described as “Borgo Magredo is located in an area of Friuli known for its gravelly soil (referred to locally as 'magredi'). Its vineyards abut against the foot of the Carnic Alps, enjoying a microclimate that helps create a crisp, fresh, and vivacious wine filled with pear and citrus aromas and flavours. A delicious counterpoint to pasta with cream sauce.” My notes: Vinted by Genagricola. A light golden colour, no signs of peach and a bright nose of citrus and slight banana. A thin film recedes through small bunches of tears and the first sip wakes the buds quickly with flavours of citrus and pear on a firm seam of acid. The finish is long with the acid fading slowly leaving a residual lemon and a smooth texture. For me, not a sipper - have with shaved ham on thinly sliced sourdough bread, fresh oysters, mussels in a spicy sauce, arctic char or planked salmon, scallops in a creamy sauce. A lot of character in a drink now or keep up to two years. 90
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SONSIERRA RIOJA RESERVA 2002, Rioja Alta, Spain, 13.5% D, #094920 $20.95 (Tasted February 20, 2009)
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A Vintages release on December 6, 2008 described as “Great structure on the palate combining wonderfully with the oak are the highlights of this beautifully made Riojan wine. Mostly Tempranillo, this wine is ready-to-drink tonight with grilled game or lamb, but it was also continue to mature in a proper cellar for 4+ years.” My notes: This has a rich violet ruby colour and leaves a firm film with long legs on the bowl, appealing to look at. The nose is full of warm ripe plums and berries and the texture is velvet and drying, medium- to full-bodied. There is a bright mineral aspect to the berry flavours that give this added interest as a sipper. The finish carries the flavours leaving more of the mineral along with even tannins on the palate. An interesting sipper and definitely a distinctive rioja. Have with chicken or turkey wings, baby back ribs or a T-bone, rack of or lamb shank… any flavourful stew. Already seven years and likely at its peak. 94
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GRAHAM BECK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Coastal Region, S. Africa, 13.0% XD, #948620 $13.95 (Tasted February 23, 2009)
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A Vintages release on February 14, 2009 described as “Cellar master Pieter Ferreira recently opined: 'These days we put so much more emphasis on viticulture. We're more vinemakers, than winemakers! You have to start with 100% top quality vines and continuously nurture your fruit in order to ultimately get something special into the bottle.' His Sauvignon Blanc has the elegance of a Sancerre coupled with the rich aromatics (asparagus, gooseberry, citrus and passion fruit) of the New Zealand style. Match it to grilled prawns.” My notes: A soft creaminess is present from first sip to a warm finish. Medium-bodied and tangy dry with melon, gooseberry and, I guess, asparagus, at least a subtle tinge of something vegetable in flavours and the nose. Shows as a light blond in the glass with a light film and long legs giving some interest as a sipper or with hors d’oeuvres. Have with shrimp, lobster, crab, white fish or a creamy cheese pasta. Likely could cellar a short time but drinking well now. A good value. 88 
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WANDERING PIANO by GRAVITAS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% D, #091017 $15.95 (Tasted February 22, 2009)
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A Vintages release on February 14, 2009 described as “… the 2006 vintage is a restrained, ripe and smooth wine with grapefruit and apple characters that linger well, good texture and a dry finish. (3 of 5, Michael Cooper, 2008)” My notes: Aromatic to say the least, full of gooseberries and slight nettles. Also there’s a light blond colour and a light film with fast tears on the glass. The first sip is like a bite into a almost ripe gooseberry, sharp and unctuous. The bite carries into a long finish slowing down any sipping - the fresh fruit balances nicely making this a very interesting sipper. A white for lovers of NZ style SB, by itself or while nibbling crab cakes or grilled shrimp. Have with telapia, lobster flesh on brown rice, halibut and chips or arctic char. Cellaring for a few years should be OK making this an excellent value. 92
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TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #077776 $18.95 (Tasted February 23, 2009)
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A Vintages release on February 14, 2009 described as “… Reserva line is made from hand-harvested grapes from top vineyard sites in the best areas of Mendoza (Tupungato, Vistalba, Perdriel and Cruz de Piedra). Only the very best fruit from these sites is used to create this superb wine. Made only in great vintages, it features aromas and flavours of cassis, vanilla bean, chocolate and new leather. Try this intense, beautifully balanced wine with grilled steak.” My notes: A dense and deep purple in the glass and an aroma of spicy black cherry mellowed by earthy oak tones. Has a brightness I don’t associate with a cabernet sauvignon, and intense blackberry highlights to a delicate black currant thread. Full-bodied, finishing long with fruit, well balanced tannins and acid and a touch of white pepper. I found it to be an interesting fruit forward sipper and excellent meal companion. Have with T-bone steak, back ribs or rack of lamb. 93 
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CASTELLBLANCH BRUT ZERO CAVA RESERVA NV, Penèdes, Spain, 11.5% D, #094813 $15.95 (Tasted February 22, 2009)
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A Vintages release on February 14, 2009 described as “This Spanish sparkler is a blend of indigenous grapes: 60% Parellada, 30% Macabeo and 10% Xarel-lo… The nose is lightly floral, with the accent on apple blossom. The palate is solid and crisp, with appropriate white-fruit flavors. Crisp on the finish, with a lively feel. A pleasurable sipper for sure. (89/100, Michael Schachner, Wine Enthusiast, Dec. 15, 2006).” My notes: Lots of large to tiny bubbles when poured that continue to stream while sipping. Not much of a nose: clean, bright, grapefruit-ish and extremely crisp on the first sip - a wakeup to the buds. Light flavours of desiccated stone fruit, a touch of almond and mango finishing mainly on the stone fruit and a mineral note. Have with oysters or stuffed mushrooms. For a social crowd I’d say it’s overly brut to be a toaster but a suitable apéritif. 84 
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BONTERRA 'MENDOCINO COUNTY' MERLOT 2006, Hopland, California, 14.0% D, #984724 $19.95 (Tasted February 21, 2009)
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A Vintages release on January 17, 2009 described as “… winemaker Bob Blue … has managed to make wines with organically grown grapes that display all the virtues of the technique without betraying the strengths of the grape variety. His Merlot is filled with aromas of raspberry, cherry and vanilla. It is round, ripe and well-structured. A natural choice for grilled organic steaks… “ My notes: A Fetzer wine having a deep ruby colour with slow tears showing on the bowl and a subtle brambly raspberry nose. There’s lots of tannin and almost-ripe berries in the first sip levelling off to mostly berry fruit with a mineral taint, medium-bodied. The finish is chalky dry of ripe bramble flavours and having a good length. Has some rawness as a sipper but OK - have with pizzas, prime rib or crockpot stews. 84 
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STONELEIGH 'MARLBOROUGH' PINOT NOIR 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% XD, #054353 $19.95 (Retasted February 26, 2009)
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My notes: Last tasted April 20, 2008 this bottle was purchased this week from the General shelves. About the same comments as last: ‘a dusty ruby with a strawberry hue’ and ‘aroma of dark plums and wild strawberries’ perhaps now with an earthier accent. There’s a touch of silk in the texture and delicate flavours of wild strawberry and stringent cranberry with light tannins and a complementing acid. Still young it may improve with cellaring, maybe two more years, although the fruit isn‘t as prominent so I‘d call it more of an extra dry drink now. The finish is long, smooth and bright with persistent flavours., a light tannin and acid, OK as a sole sipper - better with rack of lamb, sliced turkey with lingonberries, prime rib au jus, or a mild cheese tray. 86
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