February 2013 Wines: 24 Tasted of 24

Some juggling took place between January and February - hopefully I haven't dropped any labels as a result - a handful of wines were added.... and some more wines were moved to March.

*Photo courtesy of Wordpress

 ....and some comments regarding the parallel between 'Wolf in Sheep's Clothing' and the tiers of wines, including 'lookalikes', being marketed in Ontario/Canada with the question: Who is there to protect the young buyer - in experience not age - in the wine market? A rhetorical question since everyone is selling! SELL! SELL! 

There is no reliable source to which a consumer can go for an independent or informative position. Label promoters have infiltrated every wine club, supermarket, even offering trendy samples at LCBO entrances. The unspoken advice is 'Trust your taste'. I say that's fine for a soft drink...  not for a wine. If you want to satisfy a thirst squeeze an orange! Sip a Cooler!  Finding truth and perspective in a sea of missing and misinformation is not easy.
 
A side issue... I've noticed a significant increase in the number of expensive wines on the Vintages shelves in the Outlet near me - by 'expensive' I mean above the $40 price point. In this case perhaps it's a push by a single Vintages Manager. Could it also be a push by the LCBO to squeeze higher profits from those customers that can be talked into going there? I may have to switch my Outlet.

... and the abbreviation ICB has come my way a few times this month. Translated by Jancis Robinson as 'Incredibly Cold Blood'... and my own, 'Incredibly Crude Beverage'. Do you have your own interpretation or perhaps you find them acceptable as wine? (Ref 1) There is yet another lower tier I'd like to bring forward... it's unbelievable what some will do building their fortune on the gullibility of wine newbies. I'll refer to this tier as 'Buffoon wines' - wines watered down in varietal, character and alcohol and plastered with a colourful jacket. The Governments, both Federal and Provincial, are major benefactors from this charade - bottle it like wine, price it to fit a tier and use similar labelling to match a wine image. The label address is Kelowna and/or Niagara - inference says it's Canadian (wine)!  Some heritage families living in a Wine Region thrive from their neighbours integrity. Today they hide under a sheep's skin of consumer naivety, industry timidity and government complicity.  One day they'll find their place on the Cola and Mountain Dew shelves and be priced accordingly.  Then and only then will they disappear.

Just my opinion,
Ww

Ref. 1   In this same article Jancis Robinson gives a clear perspective of the latitude, unique in the world of wines, Canadian regulators give to 'wine': 

"The wine regulators and the Canadian brand owners who bottle these products may not be committing murder but they seem to me to be deceiving the wine-buying public into thinking that all these concoctions are made from the fermented juice of freshly picked grapes – the definition of “wine” that is commonly accepted outside Canada."

 

  THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites and bubblies:

• Azienda Agricola Ca' del Monte Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2007, 94-3  --  O, Negra. Italy  $22.00/btl  $263.40/Case 
• Tedeschi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2007,  93-2  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #695395 (375 mL)  $20.95
• Seghesio Family Vineyards Sonoma County Zinfandel 2010,  92-2  --  V, Sonoma, California, #942151 $29.95
• L.A. Cetto Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 91-3  --  V, Guadalupe Valley, Mexico, #114066 $11.95 
• Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, 90a  --  V, Napa Valley, California, #255513  $34.95 
• L.A. Cetto Nebbiolo Private Reserve 2008,  89-1  --  V, Guadalupe Valley, Mexico,  #590182 $18.95
• Volpaia Chianti Classico 2009, 89-1  --  V, Tuscany, Italy, #953828 $23.95 
• L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2010,  87-1  --  V, Guadalupe Valley, Mexico,  #983742  $11.95 
• Terra d'Aligi Tatone Montepulicano d'Abruzzo 2009, 86*  --  V,  d'Abruzzo, Italy, #994616 $15.95
• Cline Cellars Cashmere 2010,  84a  --  V, Sonoma, California, #161539 $19.95 
• Wakefield Pinot Noir 2011, 83  --  V, South & Western Australia, #197392 $17.95
• Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva 2008,  83  --  V, Tuscany, Italy, #508507 $29.95
• Opawa Pinot Noir 2010, 82  --  V,  Marlborough, NZ,  #295584 $17.95 
• Duck Shoot Pinot Noir 2010,  81a  --  V, Yarra Valley, Australia, #311373 $17.95 

• Brancott Estate Letter Series 'B' Sauvignon Blanc 2011, 94-3  --  G, Marlborough, NZ, #278689 $19.95 
• Henri Bourgeois 'Les Baronnes' Sancerre 2011, 94-3  --  V, Loire, France, #542548  $24.95 
• Miguel Torres Cordillera de los Andes Chardonnay 2011,  90-2 --  V, Limari Valley, Chile, #296624  $18.95
• The Little Grape That Could Torrontés NV,  86-1  --  G,  Argentina, #274738 $11.80
• Sonoma-Cutrer 'Russian River Ranches' Chardonnay 2011,  83  --  V, Sonoma Coast, California, #608653 $23.95* 
• Wente Vineyards 'Morning Fog' Chardonnay 2011,  82  --  G,  Livermore Valley, California,  #175430 $16.95 
• Trapiche Broquel Chardonnay 2011,  81  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina,  #270231  $13.95
• Conundrum 2011, 81  --  V, California, #694653 $24.95    
• Flagstone 'Word of Mouth' Viognier 2011, 78  --  V, Western Cape, S. Africa,  #278408 $16.95 

• Louis Bouillot Perle Rare Brut Cremant de Bourgogne 2008,  82  --  V, Burgundy, France, #178137  $19.95

(V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated)

TASTINGS:

BRANCOTT ESTATE LETTER SERIES 'B' SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011 ,  Marlborough, NZ, 13.0%  XD  2.3g/L, #278689  $19.95  (Tasted February 23, 2013)  CS

A General listing and a Pernod Ricard Pacific Pty Ltd product - previously known as Montana Wines.  My notes:  Freshly opened this has the full aroma of crushed gooseberries accompanied by a chalky presence. A thin film lays a lacy rim with the immediate shedding of fast tears. A pale blond, crystal clear. Refreshingly tart from the first sip keeping the fruit freshness even as it fades into a chalky dry finish. Wonderful to sip from chilled to off chill (not too so), possibly brighter than a Cloudy Bay, almost as full a texture and dryyyy more than smooth. Perfect match for bearded mussels, Tiger shrimp through to crab cakes. Cellaring a few years would be OK - check after first.  94

 

LOUIS BOUILLOT PERLE RARE BRUT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE 2008, Burgundy, France, 12.0%  XD  10g/L, #178137   $19.95  (Tasted February 27, 2013)  CS

Release by Vintages on May 12, 2012.  A blend of 60 % Chardonnay, 35 % Pinot Noir and 5% Gamay.  My notes: A slight scent of yeast scent adds to the Granny Smith apple for a muted nose.  Varied size bubbles burst on pouring with no froth at the rim although there is a continuous stream of fine bubbles and a fine spritz on the tongue. Tart, no sense of sweet, some roundness with sparse flavour carrying through a dry finish. Have with cheese and saltine crackers, fresh oysters or buttered breakfast waffles with maple syrup and strawberries - I had with crab cakes. A drink now.  82
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ROBERT MONDAVI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009, Napa Valley, California, 14.5%  XD  5g/L,  #255513  $34.95  (Tasted March 9, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on April 18, 2012.  A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 2% Syrah, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% malbec.  My notes:  Fresh crushed blueberry, raspberry with black currant backbone, some herbal, for a nose. The colour is purple and charcoal tinged ruby, tangy while a swirl leaves a smooth rim shedding slow legs. A silky feel with tannin layering the palate and woody currant/berry/herb mix for flavour. A long finish accentuates the dryness - aerating evens out profile slightly for pre-dinner or social sipping. Pair with The Keg steaks or Barbarian rubbed bbq'd back ribs.  Likely at peak but a few more years cellaring should increase smoothness.  90a

VOLPAIA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2009, Tuscany, Italy, 13.5%  XD  xg/L, #953828  $23.95  (Tasted March 7, 2013)  CS
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Released by Vintages on November 24, 2012 and rated 91 by Ian D'Agata (International Wine Cellar, September 2012).  My notes: A tour of the winery is available by clicking here . The depth of colour leads one to believe this is full-bodied then a mild fruity nose and a swirl leaving a rim of fast legs suggests medium-bodied which is confirmed by the first sip of a tangy edge of red cherry softened with dark chocolate. Have with anything in a smooth tomato sauce or a savoury lamb stew.  Mild flavours balanced with acid and tannin grow with each quaff and carry through to a dry finish. This could cellar for a few years.  89
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HENRI BOURGEOIS 'LES BARONNES' SANCERRE 2011, Loire, France, 13.0%  XD  4g/L, #542548  $24.95  (Tasted February 20, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on April 18, 2012.  My notes: Air for twenty minutes - no harm if off chill -  to allow nose to mellow - starts 'barnyard-y' then picks up an imposing herbal. A swirl sets a thin film showing a fragmenting rim to run fast tears.  A faint gold colour precedes a chalky first sip, smooth and full, with grapefruit pith staying while dryness brings a mineral edged finish. Not for general entertaining but save for those into classic whites - then to be enjoyed. Have with a delicate mushroom sauce or scallops & shrimp in an arborio rice dish.  Cellaring for several years is likely but drinking well now.  94


SEGHESIO FAMILY VINEYARDS SONOMA COUNTY ZINFANDEL 2010, Sonoma, California, 14.8%  D  5g/L, #942151  $29.95  (Tasted February 5, 2013)  CS

Release by Vintages on November 10, 2012 and rated 93 by Steve Heimoff  of Wine Enthusiast (March 1, 2012).  My notes:  80,000 cases produced and priced at $24.00 at the winery. A thin film leaves a tentative rim dropping fast legs to lead the way to scattered islands. There's a light spice to a polite blackberry aroma and the first sip is a well balanced acid, roundness and woody blackberry flavouring. The finish adds a fresh edge to the fruit and lasts long enough to coat the palate with warmth and pleasing remnants of dried fruit. This is a red well suited to prime rib au jus or rosemary encrusted rack of lamb.  Cellaring several years could deepen character while mellowing the acid. 92

CASTELLARE DI CASTELLINA CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2008, Tuscany, Italy, 13.55%  XD  5g/L, #508507  $29.95  (Tasted March 2, 2013)  CS
 
Release by Vintages on September 29, 2012 and rated 90 by Antonio Galloni  (August 2011).  My notes: 13,420 bottled. A slight adobe to the edge with a firm film slowly releasing tears from a solid rim. The nose is of cherries, berries and red currants, warming the senses. The first sip is nicely tangy, silky with some milk chocolate to the berry/cherry combination heading to a finish that is chalk dry. Not a sipper unless your preference is for medium-bodied, light on fruit and exceptionally dry. Pair with pizzas or pastas, tomato-y and/or meaty. A drink now - passed peak. 83  
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TEDESCHI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2007, Veneto, Italy, 15.5%  XD  10g/L,  #695395 (375 mL)  $20.95   (Tasted March 9, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on October 13, 2012 and rate 93 by Alison Napjust  (October 31, 2011).  My notes: A full bottle (750mL) size of Vintages Tedeschi Amarone #433417 ( CS ) is priced at $39.95 and was released April 18, 2012.  The colour is a deep ruby tinged with charcoal and a black cherry flesh at the meniscus. The film is heavy forming swelling tears from a rounded rim. Aromas of damp earth mellowed by mocha and cassis form part of an evolving nose - interesting as a sipper. A silk and velvet texture carries smoky prune flavours through a long dry finish. Slow, if you can, sipping or to be paired with a sumptuous savoury ragout as a treat. Drinking well now and could cellar several more years. 93
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AZIENDA AGRICOLA CA' DEL MONTE VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE RIPASSO 2007, Umbria. Italy, 13.5% XD 6g/L, Tannin Fine Wines,  $263.40/case  (Tasted February 18, 2013)

My notes: There's a rich dark cherry skin colour and an alluring aroma rich with cherries, vanilla and warm cigar smoke. A thin film lays a clean rim that runs slow legs then reluctantly fragments. The first sip is silky with a bright penetrating acid and fine tannin for a puckering dryness. Sipping slowly to absorb the aromas and delaying sips lets one enjoy fruit changing to a warm finish. Ripasso adds considerable character to this red. A flexible red for many pasta dishes... or have with roasted stews, bq'd ribs or The Keg steaks. Could be at peak now with several years to go. Aerating mellows acids somewhat but not needed. 94



TERRA D'ALIGI TATONE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2009, d'Abruzzo, Italy,  14.0%  XD  8g/L,  #994616  $15.95  (Tasted February 21, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on September 29, 2012.  My notes: I enjoyed the 2006 vintage rating it 93 and the price has held.  The colour is a dense blackberry to match the nose, a spicy blackberry blended with black cherry and whisper of vanilla.  The film sticks forming a smooth rim that drains slowly through rows of tears. Smooth, penetrating acid, fine tannin and a bright blend of tart cherries that quickly parched the palate. A sipper with a bold edge setting it  apart from other social reds. Pair with any meaty tomato pasta, add slices of Portuguese chorizo. Already at peak...*the open bottle went downhill (80) by next day.  86


L.A. CETTO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, Guadalupe Valley, Mexico,  13.5%  XD  6g/L,  #114066  $11.95  (Tasted February 25, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on January 19, 2013.  My notes: The Petit Sirah and Zinfandel have been 88+ and this should be no different altho' a dollar higher.   This leaves a clear even film forming a solid rim followed by tiers of slow tears.  A rich fruit aroma warm to the senses and an  earthy black- and blue-berry scent. The first sip rewards with a silky texture, full in the mouth, warm in the throat and washing the palate with dry berry fruit. To be welcomed by anyone regardless of their wine orientation. Have with prime rib, likely better with a rubbed sirloin steak or meaty back ribs, anything bbq'd.  Cellaring should be possible for 4 to 6 years - but delectable out of the bottle now.  91

L.A. CETTO PETITE SIRAH 2010, Guadalupe Valley, Mexico,  13.5%  D  4g/L,  #983742  $11.95  (Tasted February 23, 2013) CS

Released by Vintages on January 5, 2013. Winner of a Gold Medal Concours Mondial Bruxelles 2012.  My notes: A pull tab to remove the foil and a smooth pulling cork makes this A+ convenient.  There's a purple tinge to the deep ruby colour and milk chocolate edge to fresh berries, rasp- and -straw.  The film lays firmly from a solid rim before falling tears drain away. Silky, tangy, slight sweet to the berries at this point then adds a faint tar to muted berries until a dry, flavourful finish. Given the price this would appeal to both hosts as well as guests. Have as an open bar quaffer or pair with a mixed beef or lamb buffet: hamburgers, turkey sliders, roasted ribs, seasoned rack of lamb.  Keep several on hand for unexpected visitors but not really meant for cellaring.  87 

L.A. CETTO PRIVATE RESERVE NEBBIOLO 2008,  Guadalupe Valley, Mexico, 13.5%  XD  5g/L, #590182  $18.95  (Tasted February 19, 2013) CS
 
Released by Vintages on February 2, 2013.  My notes: There's some purple to the deep ruby giving this red a rich depth. A swirl leaves a fragmented rim running long fast legs and the first sip has flavours of blackberries dipped in dark chocolate, muted but enough there for pleasant sniffing. The first sip bursts with flavour combined with a mild acid and accompanied by a layer of fine tannin - difficult not to quaff.  Fades quickly to extra dry fruit with a lining of tannin. Pair with meaty entrees, savoury stews or prime rib au jus. Cellaring a short while is possible - likely at peak.  89  

CONUNDRUM 2011, California, 13.5%  M  12g/L,  #694653  $24.95  (Tasted February 26, 2013)  CS

A Vintages release on April 18, 2012. My notes:  The 2009 vintage was tasted March 2011 with a 91 rating. This has a golden colour, crisp and clear with an aroma of muted sweet straw. The film sticks then slowly recedes evenly forming some islands on the glass. The first sip has a touch of sweetness ending with a chalky layer on the tongue and minor melon flavourings - the sugar gets in the way to be enticing. A pleasing texture, a lightish medium-bodied with acid balancing sweet.  Serve to a convivial crowd not looking for the exceptional or pair with rotisserie'd whole chicken and mixed veggies, seafood dishes or a Chinese buffet. A drink now. 81


WENTE VINEYARDS 'MORNING FOG' CHARDONNAY 2011,  Livermore Valley, California,  13.5%  D  8g/L,  #175430   $16.95  (Tasted February 20, 2013)  CS

A General listing.  My notes:  I missed the 2011 vintage notes on their website being curious about a possible gewurz/semillon content as in 2006/2005 vintages. This is a pale blond, crisp and clear with a scent of lemongrass and taste of tart melon and slight green apple. The film is thin laying a fragmented rim that runs fast tears. Not my first choice as a sipper as I find the flavours follow the vegetal side of the nose then through a fading finish ending dry, tart - perhaps more process than vineyard. Paired with seafood or chicken it refreshes between bites and has a soft touch. Label shows hi & lo ratings over previous vintages.  82

FLAGSTONE 'WORD OF MOUTH' VIOGNIER 2011, Western Cape, S. Africa,  14.0%  D  5g/L,  #278408   $16.95  (Tasted February 14, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on July 7, 2012 and a Constellation Europe winery.  My notes:  A briny edge to a grapefruit and lemon scent and a pale straw in colour. The film sticks and slowly recedes from a fragmenting rim. Silky, a prominent tang and grassy flavours of kiwi and melon fade leaving a remnant of fruit then an enduring lanolin dryness.  A medium-bodied commercial white - no hint of floral and not a sipper - possibly a match for grilled seafood. 78


SONOMA-CUTRER 'RUSSIAN RIVER RANCHES' CHARDONNAY 2011, Sonoma Coast, California,  13.9%  XD  2g/L, #608653  $23.95*   (Tasted February 22, 2013)  CS

A Vintages release on April 18, 2012 with price reduced from $26.95 until February 3, 2013.  My notes:  A green tint sets off the crisp mid gold colour showing the tiniest of effervescence. A quick swirl leaves a heavily fragmented rim that sheds long fast legs.  A hint of Bosc pear, tart apple and faint floral for a nose and the flavour of cooling biscuits top a swell of tangy green apple. Let go off chill to increase a fullness to carry mineral cast flavours until they slowly decline to a long astringent finish. Not a sipper but to be paired with shellfish or fish dishes. I'll try with tonight's sushi/sashimi.  83
 
MIGUEL TORRES CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES CHARDONNAY 2011, Limari Valley, Chile, 13.5%  D  7g/L,  #296624   $18.95  (Tasted February 11, 2013)  CS

A Vintages release on October 13, 2012.  My notes: A mid golden with a mixed nose, mainly a mild Irish Breakfast and bright lemongrass, refreshing and distinct. The first sip skips right past the nose with its soft buttery texture, pleasing tartness and a light butterscotch flavour to engage the palate. There's a dry edge that continues through a long chalky finish. Pair with grilled kippers, a rash of bacon with sunny side eggs or other grilled seafoods. This should age well.  90

CLINE CELLARS CASHMERE 2010, Sonoma, California, 14.0%  D  9g/L, #161539  $19.95  (Tasted February 22, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on January 19, 2013. A blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache and rated 87 by Robert Parker Jr. (August 2011).  20,000 cases produced.  My notes: A floral aspect of each grape wafts on the first pour - raspberry, blackberry, spicy red cherry bound together by smooth chocolate and faint vanilla. The colour is a deep berry and the first sip is a blend of red currant and blueberry quickly changing to a metallic tooth cleaner. Initially the nose appeals as a social sipper and the initial fruit quickly shifts to a dry, ascerbic metal that loses appeal in the long run. Have with beefy entrees. If cellared may lose some acid allowing fruit to come forward but not likely. Aeration takes some edge off.   84     


THE LITTLE GRAPE THAT COULD TORRONTÉS NV, Argentina,  12.5%  D  11g/L,  #274738   $11.80  (Tasted February 18, 2013)  CS
 
A General listing.  My notes: If I'm going to pay $12 for a  wine it's going to be a known grape with a country of origin.... and 100% of the profit going to a charity of my choice is an additional plus.  Two grapes from this label are available at the LCBO, Cabernet Sauvignon #277020 and Torrontés. A faint blond colour with a film that easily fragments and runs long legs down the glass. The aroma is a blend of lemon grass and slight melon nothing exciting but nothing offensive if sipping. The finish is silky with more than a touch of sweet lasting awhile leaving a melon roundness. An open bar offering or one to go with a seafood paella, baked halibut or cod. Quaff off chill for fullness and flavour. A social drink now. 86

TRAPICHE BROQUEL CHARDONNAY 2011,  Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0%  XD  3g/L,  #270231  $13.95  (Tasted February 17, 2013)  CS
 
A General listing.  My notes:  A pale blond colour, crisp and clear, with a lemon zest scent with faint melon as a nose. A swirl leaves a lacy rim drained evenly by a light film. Tangy, lemon and melon flavoured ending with a mineral and light chalk feel. Extra dry, on the bland side as a finish - minimally better off chill as a sipper - more of a meal white with chicken or seafood. A drink now. 81 


DUCK SHOOT PINOT NOIR 2010, Yarra Valley, Australia, 13.0% D  5g/L, #311373  $17.95  (Tasted February 28, 2013)  CS
A Vintages release on February 2, 2013 - rated 92 by David Prestipino The Sunday Times (February 18, 2012).  My notes:  A dusty charcoal turns the see through to sombre while the nose picks up a just perceptible strawberry scent.  A swirl leaves a thin film and a fragmenting rim that sheds slow tears.  A first sip has an initial tang that penetrates then leaves a drying tannin with scant wild berry flavours. As a sipper the texture is smooth but lacks a distinct fruit flavour leading to a shallow finish. In my view this is mislabelled neither being the boisterous gallery of a midway nor a whizbang Pinot. Aerate to lessen tannins. A possible pair for grilled rainbow trout on a bed of Arborio rice. An alternative is 'O' Pinot Noir by Gilles Louvet Organic 201x  (#292995 $14.10)  81a

WAKEFIELD PINOT NOIR 2011, South & Western Australia, 14.0%  D  5g/L, #197392   $17.95  (Tasted February 12, 2013)  CS
 
Release by Vintages on January 19, 2013 - rated 87 by Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar (July 2012).  My notes: A light see-through ruby in colour and a swirl leaves patches of film slowly fragmenting.  A blend of raspberry and strawberry aromas, tangy with an earthy tone masking the fruit. The first sip is light-bodied with a drying tannin starting out strong on musty, if sipped, fruit slowly fading flavours to a dry touch of wood warm in the throat. Went nicely with Chinese Spaghetti and Meatballs and should with most soy flavoured stir-fry's or sirloin slices in a savoury sauce. Not much to cellar so a drink now. 83

OPAWA PINOT NOIR 2010, Marlborough, NZ,  13.5%  D  4g/L, #295584  $17.95  (Tasted February 13, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 19, 2013.  My notes: Rated 80 by Bob Campbell MW. The winery website doesn't show this vintage... Natalie MacLean's website shows label for 2011 with a high rating - makes you wonder what her team tasted? There's a slight sweetness to a perfumed aroma of mild strawberry and a swirl leaves a smooth film to recede slowly from a lacy rim.  The colour is a charcoal tinted, see-through strawberry. The first sip is light-bodied with a bright edge to an apple, berry, candy floss flavour and leaves a long, dry layer when sipped. Combine with a Chinese buffet or Japanese Tempura shrimp and broccoli flowers. Cellaring is past due for this vintage. 82
 

A Port Sampler

My spouse occasions a port in the mid evening and I have now started buying a price range of Ports attempting to narrow on a preference. One conclusion so far is price brings a more elegant and enjoyable sipper, as shown by the ranking below.

The comments are hers for this initial selection of four.

Cheers, Ww

RANKING & SHORT NOTES:

1.   GRAHAM'S 20 YEAR OLD TAWNY PORT NV, Portugal,  20.0%  S  115g/L,  #620641  (500 mL)  $36.95  CS
 

A General listing.  Notes:  "Richer, has an edge, deep nose!"

2.   GRAHAM'S 10 YEAR OLD TAWNY PORT NV, Portugal, 20.0%  S 118g/L, #206508 $27.95  
CS
 

A General listing.  Notes: "Tad lighter, aromatic, Quite like!"

3.   POÇAS SPECIAL RESERVE TAWNY PORT NV, Douro, Portugal,  20.0%  S  106g/L.  #286229  $15.95  CS
 
Released by Vintages on October 13, 2012 and rated 88 by Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast (March 2010).  My notes:  "less aromatic, viscous, sweet!"

4.   OFFLEY LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE 'LBV' PORTO 2007,  Douro, Portugal,  20.5%  S  104g/L,  #070086   $19.95  CS
 
Released by Vintages on December 8, 2012.  My notes:  "Flatter, not 'nosey', fruity"

January 2013 Wines: 20 Tasted of 20

The January Lineup of wines follows this Intro: 

Click to enlarge

I've started reading John Szabo's Pairing Food & Wines for Dummies . I don't intend to 'review' so much as pass along my comments as I progress - warning - I'm a slow reader. I've read to page 14 and already have gleaned several tips on how to apply myself to the remaining chapters. Authors often are inclined to stretch beyond their area of expertise or life experience but this title should restrain material to within the expansive role of a sommelier.

Yesterday saw the purchase of both

Click to enlarge

John's book and Jancis Robinson's 'How to Taste' . 'It's about time!' some will say knowing I need some help with my tasting techiques. Will this book help? I'll let you know. Certainly John is someone who deserves respect for his objective and 8 year experience as a Master Sommelier, one of only 129 in North America and 186 worldwide.  

Ms. Robinson OBE and MW since 1984 is world renown for her impartial dedication to the world of wine as demonstrated by her energetic participation in most wine regions from plantings to processing, from terroir to grapes to blends ensuring events affecting viticulture and the product thereof are given a fair hearing through her blog Purple Pages , her constant presence on Twitter, her journalism and as an author. Some of the professional endorsements for her book appearing on the back cover is shown in the figure. There are 257 MWs in 23 countries with 30 in the US and 4 in Canada.

I'm looking forward to realigning my own do-it-yourself approach through the information in these books. 

 January is the month for back surgery so I'll be MIA for about 2 weeks: a lumbar fusion and some bone sculpting to relieve the sciatic nerve where it exits from its vertebrae channel to give my lower back and right leg some peace. The human body is a marvelous structure when all goes well. When it gets abused over time it can literally be a pain. I expect to 'hit the bottle' again the 3rd week of January.  Lots of reading time in between... 8-).

Meanwhile have a great New Year,

Update - January 19, 2013

My spine operation went according to schedule, in on January 4th and out, after a brief negotiation, on the 8th. Hospitals in spite of their high occupancy are not the easiest places to escape. 

Seven of the wines listed are from Tony Aspler's 'Top 10 wines from Vintages January 5th Release'  and Vintages January 19th Release '.  Aspler's ratings are shown as TAxx and are intended as benchmarks, ie. how far off track am I getting?, for my tastings.

Update - January 22, 2013

I officially took myself off Percocet today. Side issues with this drug kept me in a confused state, that is, more than usual. Without the opiate content a replacement drug is not as debilitating and with a walker I've managed two return trips to the local LCBO.  

I'm still not able to endure an oz. of Santa Rita Chardonnay 2010 so delay any early tastings of what would be more delicate whites. An oz. of Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2010, a first time sampler, was similarly raw which I attribute to my drugged state, consequently, I've sentenced myself to another few days of withdrawal before going online. 

Update - January 25, 2013

No longer requiring a chauffeur I'm free to schedule my own periodic LCBO visits.  Doing tastings but not back to the quaffing stage as yet.  I'll be repackaging the January lineup shifting some wines to February rather than overindulging. 

Cheers, Ww 
 
THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites and bubblies:

• M. Gassier Nostre Pais Costieres de Nimes 2010, (TA90) 91-2  --  V, Loire, France #295410  $18.95 
• Mitolo Jester Gift Box. #186759 (2x750mL) $44.95 including: 
  
  • Mitolo Jester Cabernet Sauvignon 2010,  91a-2  --  V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #043224 $21.95
  • Mitolo Jester Shiraz 2010,  89a-1  --  V, McLaren Vale, Australia,  #659607 $22.95

• MontGras Quatro 2011, 88a-1  --  V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #050641  $14.95
• Lady Anne Barnard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, (TA89)  88-1   --  V, #101758 $16.75
• Arnaldo- Caprai Rosso Montefalco 2009, (TA89) 82  V, Umbria, Italy, #303065  $19.95 
• Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2010  (TA90)  80  --  V, Campo de Borja, Spain, #273748  $19.95  

Trapiche Malbec Gift Box, #253633 (3x750mL)  $36.45  including:   

• Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2010, 90a-2  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina,  #234385  $14.95
• Trapiche Reserve Malbec 2011, 83  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #614651  $12.00 
• Trapiche Varietals Malbec 2012, 81  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina,  #501551  $9.45

• Scott Family Estate Dijon Clone Chardonnay 2011,  (TA91)  92-2  --  V,  St. Helena, California, #099051, $23.95 
• Anne Boecklin Gewurztraminer Collection 2010,  (TA90) 90-2  --  V, Alsace, France, #141226  $18.95
• Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2011, 87a  --  V, Marlborough, NZ,  #686675  $18.95 
  
• Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 86  --  V, Vineland, Ontario,  #080234 $16.95 
• Roger & Didier Raimbault Sancerre 2011, (TA91) 85  --  V,  Loire, France, #082255 $22.95 
• Roche De Bellene Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Chardonnay 2010  84  --  V,  #299867   $19.95 
  
• McManis Family Vineyards Pinot Grigio 2011,  80  --  V, Ripon, California, #181453 $17.95 
• Santa Rita Reserva Chardonnay 2010,  NR  --  G, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #348359  $12.45*
• Skinnygrape Pinot Grigio NV,  NR  --  Andrew Peller Ltd.,  #Boutique, $11.95 

• Domaine du Clos de l'Epinay 'Tête de Cuvée' Brut Vouvray,  83  --  V, Loire, France, #298398 $19.95  

(V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated)

TASTINGS:


MONTGRAS QUATRO 2011, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 14.0%  XD  4g/L, #050641   $14.95  (Tasted January 2, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on November 10, 2012 and a blend of  Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carmenère and Malbec.  My notes:  A cardinal tinge to the deep ruby and the film sticks from a continuous rim quickly flowing long legs. A woody cranberry aroma adds to tart red currant, mild raspberry flavour that carries through a moderate finish ending dry and smooth on the tongue. Have with meaty pizzas or a ham steak w/cranberry sauce - not raisin. Keep a few on hand for times of ordering in that pizza. Aerating mellows the aroma's woody edge and tannins aren't as pronounced throughout. Definitely worthwhile. Eco-wise the empty btl weighs in at over 1.5lbs.  88a


FEATHERSTONE BLACK SHEEP RIESLING 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 10.0%  D  18g/L,  #080234  $16.95  (Tasted January 2, 2013)  CS

A Vintages release date not given. 1675 cases produced.  My notes: Now sold out.  A platinum blond colour with a almost perceptible lemon floral nose when aired in the glass. The film quickly fragments leaving lacy islands. A tangy attack of silky lemon starts the first swallow and continues a strong presence to a dry finish. Any sweetness is balanced by stringent lemon giving this limited appeal as a sole sipper. Have with fresh oysters or a shrimp ring. A local style not likely to acquire a petrol nose if cellared.   86

MITOLO JESTER SHIRAZ 2010 & JESTER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010 GIFT PACK, #186759  2x750 mL bottle  $44.95  CS

Released by Vintages on October 27, 2012.

MITOLO JESTER SHIRAZ 2010 , McLaren Vale, Australia,  15.2%  D  5g/L, #659607  $22.95  (Tasted February 17, 2013)  CS

Release by Vintages on October 27, 2012.  My notes: A deep purple colour with a firm film leaving long legs falling from a solid rim. The nose has a bright edge and muted scent of ripe crushed blackberries, blueberries and a slight tobacco to increase the character. The first sip is full, refreshingly sharp but smooth leaving a dry layer on the palate to continue a long finish. The warmth increases with each sip and aerating is preferred if sipping. Cellaring should be OK for several years. Have with osso buco, savoury stews or Barbarian rubbed sirloin or T-bone steaks. 89a

MITOLO JESTER CABERNET SAUVIGNON  2010 , McLaren Vale, Australia, 14.9%  D  xg/L, #043224, $21.95  (Tasted February 9, 2013)  CS

Release by Vintages on October 29, 2011.  My notes:  A deep plum colour with a pungent aroma of blackcurrant/blackberry. A swirl leaves a fragile rim sliding down the bowl. Refreshing crushed blackberries with a touch of sweet, full-bodied, a mild tannin added to a long warm eucalyptus finish. I hesitate to aerate possibly losing the fullness of the fruit altho' the pungency could be more palatable... aerating lessened the penetrating tartness on a sip without losing fruit or length. Have with bbq'd ribs, pork or beef, or a grilled sirloin with 'fixings'. Cellaring for several years could soften and further add to varietal character.  91a

MCMANIS FAMILY VINEYARDS PINOT GRIGIO 2011, Ripon, California, 11.5% XD, #181453  $17.95  (Tasted January 1, 2013)  CS

Released by Vintages on October 13, 2012. My notes: The 2009 vintage was tasted on October 5, 2010 and rated 80.  A mid straw colour leaving a fragmented rim flowing slow legs. The nose needs warming, +12oC, to appear then it's a timid floral. The first sip is medium-bodied, nicely balanced with a silky touch to a crushed lemon seed flavour that continues through the finish. No sweetness detected and closer to XD. A white to go with grilled seafood, sea bass or cod with an olive tapenade. Not objectionable just not a sipper unless fruit and finish isn't a priority. A drink now.  80 



TRAPICHE MALBEC TRIO GIFT PACK GIFT BOX, #253633  3x750mL  $36.45  CS

From Argentina's wine producer of the year in 2004, 2006 & 2011.
 
TRAPICHE BROQUEL MALBEC 2010,  Mendoza, Argentina,  14.5%  XD  2.81g/L,  #234385   $14.95  (Tasted January 28, 2013)  CS

A General listing.  My notes:  I couldn`t find this label on the Trapiche website - reference is to the local distributor Vins Philippe Dandurand Wines and an excellent website. A deep blackberry colour deepened still by a reflecting opacity. The nose is heavy yet soft giving pleasurable berry scents. As the glass is swirled a thick film, not syrupy but nicely viscous, leaves a contiguous rim to trail long slow legs. Velvety, penetrating flavours of ripe fruit well concentrated for pairing with bbq'd pork or beef ribs. If one prefers full and dense this is a sipper otherwise save for a slow sip with dark chocolate - go on to a lighter brew with prime rib or rack of lamb.  Cellaring several years may soften however aerating also provides a gentler sip and is recommended.  90a  

TRAPICHE RESERVE MALBEC 2011, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0%  D  2.71g/L, #614651   $12.00  (Tasted February 1, 2013)  CS

A General listing. My notes: Leaves a thin film with legs slow to show then fall sparsely after accumulating at the rim. A deep raspberry colour losing its brightness to a garnet hue and a light scent of earthy peat losing most of the fruit. The first sip stings before filling the palate with earthy, liquorice tones and leaving a layer of tannin. Full-bodied with flavours that trail along a long finish and needing some moderating nibbles. Serve with bacon on a bun, double tomato bruschetta or a meatlovers pizza. Aerating softens the acid a tad but still quite raw.  83

TRAPICHE VARIETALS MALBEC 2012, Mendoza, Argentina,  13.5%  D  4g/L,  #501551  $9.45  (Tasted February 1, 2013)  CS

A General listing. My notes:  There's a freshness to the nose on pouring of a muted crushed raspberry aroma. A swirl leaves a thin film that falls quickly showing unfiltered dots (tartar?) along with fast legs on the glass. More fruit with the first sip giving this an opening as an entry level medium-bodied sipper altho' have nibbles close-by. There's a touch of sweetness with moderate tannin and acid and a short earthy finish - I'd pair it with bbq'd fare: hamburgers, T-bone or seasoned sirloin.  Not for cellaring - a drink now.  81    

DOMAINE DU CLOS DE L'EPINAY  'TÊTE DE CUVÉE' BRUT VOUVRAY 2007, Loire, France, 12.0%  XD  13g/L, #298398  $19.95  (Tasted February 3, 2013)  CS

Release by Vintages on December 8, 2012 and awarded a Gold Medal in the 2012 edition of the Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide.  My notes: 100% Chenin Blanc and 8.80Euros ($11.60C) at winery. As golden as the medal it won in 2012 and effervescent from start to the last sip. Extremely tart with a strong, unusual rusty flavour, metallic with a touch of honey and wet straw. There's little fruit in a long dry finish, perhaps a hint of pear but with an appealing fullness. Have with fresh oysters or grilled scallops and broad pasta. Past peak or an acquired taste.  83


ROGER & DIDIER RAIMBAULT SANCERRE 2011,  Loire, France, 12.5%  XD  2g/L,  #082255 $22.95  (Tasted January 25, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 5, 2013.  My notes: A pale straw with a fragmenting rim that runs fast tears. Let breathe for several minutes for a soft aroma of warm butter and tart apple. The first sip penetrates with an interesting chalky, mineral flavour lasting into a long dry finish. Not a social sipper but a seafood white to balance with fresh oysters, grilled buttered shrimp or lobster pieces. Cellaring may introduced more roundness and depth and may retain the fruit aspect - perhaps 5 years.  85


ARNALDO-CAPRAI ROSSO MONTEFALCO 2009,  Umbria, Italy, 14.5%  XD  6g/L, #303065  $19.95  (Tasted February 9, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 5, 2013. A blend of Rosso (70%),  Sangiovese (15%), Sagrantino and (15%) Merlot and rated 90 by Antonio Galloni  (June 2011).  My notes:  A dull ruby leaving a smooth rim running fast legs. A slight aroma of warm, dried cherries, woody spice with little nose appeal. Silky, a fine tannin that coats the palate for a long dry woody finish. Less fruit and more earthy tobacco with offering some sippability when served with bruschetta but more of a meal red: panzerotto pizza or spaghetti and meatballs. A drink now. Aerating marginally brings out more fruit.  82a

M. GASSIER NOSTRE PAIS COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 2010, Midi, France,  14.5% XD 6g/L, #295410  $18.95  (Tasted February 9, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 5, 2013. A blend of  35% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 20% Mourvedre, 15% Cinsault and 5% Syrah.  Rated 90 by Robert Parker Jr. (June 2012).   My notes: Lovely on first sip... an initial crisp red cherry followed by the soft fullness of blue- and blackberry. A slight herbal aspect to a berry scent and shows a rosy pink with a swirl.  Approaching full-bodied and coloured with deep rouge the finish leaves slowly adding a drying coating. An amenable sipper and would pair nicely with savoury stews over puréed cauliflower. Cellaring for several years could add value. 91
 
LADY ANNE BARNARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010,  Cape Town, S. Africa,  14.0%  XD 4g/L, #101758  $16.75  (Tasted January 25, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 5, 2013.  My notes:  A deep black currant colour leaving a viscous film and solid rim that takes its time to run slow tears. The nose has a smooth essence of freshly pressed black currants, a clean edge and sets an expectation of penetrating flavour. Flavours follow the nose with more emphasis on crushed pulp. The film is firm leaving a continuous rim to drain through slow tears. The body is lighter than expected and leaves a fuzzy tannin layer to carry thru a long finish. Cellaring not likely to develop further.  Have with grilled beef, beef lover's pizza or spaghetti and meatballs.  Aerating did not improve.  88  



SCOTT FAMILY ESTATE DIJON CLONE CHARDONNAY 2011,  St. Helena, California,  13.5%  XD 6g/L,  #099051,  $23.95  (Tasted January 29, 2013)  CS
 
Release by Vintages on Jan 5, 2013 and a Rutherford Wine Company product.  My notes: There's a tawny hue to a mid gold colour and a grassy aroma wafts from the glass on pouring. A swirl leaves a firm film with a continuous rim that fragments into long slow tears.  An interesting combination of sweet grasses with yellow plums and lemon from the first sip lasts long on the palate, dry, warm and full. Each stage gives something new making this a social favourite - better with a roast chicken or Tiger Shrimp, Pacific Scallops with lychees, plain rice swimming in a medium-hot curry sauce.  Cellaring for several years will likely pay off.  92


ANNE BOECKLIN GEWURZTRAMINER COLLECTION 2010, Alsace, France,  12.5%  D  32g/L, #141226  $18.95  (Tasted January 30, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 19, 2013.  A Gold Medal winner at the Grands Vins de France in 2012. My notes:  A mid bright gold with a soft spicy grass as a nose - the film slides uniformly and quickly down the glass.  Kept chilled the grass combines with a slight melon and Granny Smith showing the smoothness of one and the sweet, mild tartness of the other. A sip then swallow wipes the palate with sweet then spice both remaining for a long while. Have with equally sweet and tart apple crumble and cheese or Bosc pear slices.  Cellar for a few years to blend flavours while retaining mellow.  90


BORSAO TRES PICOS GARNACHA 2010,  Yecla, Spain, 14.5% XD  5g/L, #273748 $19.95  (Tasted January 29, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 19, 2013 and rated 92 by Robert Parker Jr.  (October 2012).  My notes: 100% Grenache grapes and 1.5lbs+ of glass. Long legs flow freely with the initial swirl. There's a mellow scent of earthy plums, black cherries with a clove overtone introducing a velvety, tannin laden first sip. The spice overwhelms and distracts from any expected fruit making this an acquired taste - not for me. Try aerating or decanting an hour ahead hoping to subdue spice (add 2 points) - still leaves a flat offness lasting well into a long dry finish. Pair with a well seasoned, hickory smoked sirloin strips and double baked potato w/sour cream. Not a sipper.  80

ROCHE DE BELLENE VIEILLES VIGNES BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2010, Burgundy, France, 13.0%  XD 2g/L,  #299867   $19.95  (Tasted February 4, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 19, 2013 - rated 16/20 by Jancis Robinson MW  (January 24, 2012) .  My notes:  A golden colour with a lemongrass aroma, not quite grassy but dry, no sweet. Leaves a thin film with a fragmented rim that separates into tiny islands. There's a smoothness to the first medium-bodied sip, tart, even acidic suitable for grilled seafoods or cheesy noodles - not a drink now. The finish continues the dry grassy theme leaving the palate looking for nibbles.  Much better if allowed to go off chill for an extra long finish and silkiness - aroma dissipates quickly.  Either past peak or shortly before... try cellaring three to five years tasting regularly after two.  84

SANTA RITA RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2010, Casablanca Valley, Chile,  13.5%  XD  2g/L,  #348359  $12.45*  (Tasted January 22, 2013)  CS
 
A General listing now priced $12.45 until February 3, 2013 - was $13.95 .   My notes:  Not rated.



SPY VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, Marlborough, NZ,  13.5%  D  5g/L, #686675   $18.95  (Tasted January 28, 2013)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 19, 2013 and rated 89 by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW (October 2011).  My notes:  A pale blond with a firm film that rings a fragmenting rim  to drain thru' slow tears leaving only islands.  There's a lightly floral fragrance of crushed gooseberries edged with a tart touch of lime.  The first sip translates aroma to tart fruit ending with a long bright chalky finish. Medium-bodied but full in Kiwi character for those preferring tangy - on the strong side for most - aerating helps minimally. Have with prawns and lemon risotto or scallops wrapped in English bacon with hashbrowns or onion rings. I don't see this gaining much with cellaring.  87a


SKINNYGRAPE PINOT GRIGIO NV,  Andrew Peller Ltd., 8.0%  M  16g/L,  Boutique  $11.95  (Tasted January 26, 2013)

A beverage produced by Andrew Peller Ltd. from unknown fruit, unknown sources and produced from an unclear manufacturing process.  My notes: My first boutique tasting and, in principal, outside the latitude of this blog. The colour is a mid gold and a mild scent of sour apple predominates the nose and loses its fruit quickly . The film is light and leaves a fragmented rim to run slow tears. The first sip has a mild sweet apple and leaves the palate dry. Quaffing has the flavour of diluted canned apple juice almost quenching then at the last introduces a unpleasant taste. Not a sipper nor would it contribute to most meals - try cod on a mushroom risotto. With many alternatives available I don't see a place for this as a beverage - we discarded the bottle.  Not rated.       

Things of the Past

Handshake, Ethics, Truth, Innocence - of a past era

The recent exposing of some wine reviewers unethical practices has backed up my long time recommendation to all consumers to research any and every wine critic for the applicability to themselves of their reviews. Unless you do your homework the purchase of wines based on reviews by both professionals or amateurs is a Buyer Beware business.

Words can sound truthful and even well intentioned but the prose of any wine article can also be so general the only one knowing how it's to be interpreted is you, the consumer.  For instance what do the words(1) "by far the largest, most useful and reliable source of independent information and critical opinion on wine in the country" mean?  'most useful'?  Yes & No, in what respect.  reliable?  Yes & No... varies with source.  independent? is each contributor vetted? Yes & No...  The options change the meaning unless you the reader set the boundaries. Establish what's meaningful. Don't accept face value. Don't let someone with vested interests tell you what is meaningful. 

(1)(2)From the article  featured in WineAlign "John Szabo's Vintages Preview for January 5th 2013"

Another phrase(2) "you generally get what you pay for" is an outdated and naive statement in today's world, a world in which there is an increasingly disproportionate 'high income' to 'middle and low income' people. In contrast to the many venture capitalists willing to con their position in today's wine industry there are others willing to give of their experience and time not expecting payment except for the voluntary and free exchange of thoughts. To discredit the many wine bloggers in the interest of self promotion is disingenuous in my view.  Every information source should be treated on its own merit and not discounted offhandedly. It would be a positive step if some leading Wine Critics/Journalists set the bar not only for themselves but for all their colleagues, ie. to start regulating their business. But a lifestyle once accustomed is easily rationalized by anyone.

That's my opinion, Ww