Friday, June 02, 2006

June Reds (10): Italy Montepulciano, France Blend, Canada Berry, Australia Shiraz, Spain Blend, Italy Blend, France Syrah, Australia Blend(2), NZ PN

CITRA MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2005, Abruzzo, Italy, 13.0% D, #446633 $6.95 (Tasted June 19, 2006)

A General listing with a non-vintage description of "Medium ruby purple colour; cherry, blackberry fruit, pepper on the nose and palate with hints of leather, chocolate, plum and spice; medium-bodied with a firm, dry finish. Chicken cacciatore, tomato-based pasta or pizza." The label says: "Ruby red with notes of violets and black cherry, full-bodied with smooth tannins and pleasant to the palate." My notes: A rich ruby colour with a faint cherry and pepper nose, a sharp edge balanced by fresh cranberry and cherry flavours finishing quickly with a bright berry touch on the palate. A suitable dry red sipper and a match for red pasta or pizza dishes. The structure is light without richness but so is the price. A drink-now although could 'cellar' a year's purchase to have on hand for spontaneous bbqs or sports finals get-togethers.

JUNIPER CROSSING CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MERLOT 2003, Margaret River, Australia, 13.5% XD, #684019 $15.95 (Tasted June 14, 2006)

A Vintages release on June 10, 2006 and described as "This scrumptious ‘second label' from Juniper Estate is comprised of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. A well-priced Margaret River Cabernet with a surprising touch of class. The herb, blackcurrant and smoky scents are savoury and attractive. In the mouth there is clean, intense Cabernet fruit with a well-controlled touch of oak, a long finish and dry savoury tannins. A bargain. Score - 4(out of 5). (Ralph Kyte-Powell, ‘Epicure Uncorked', The Age, Sept. 13, 2005). Winecurrent.com gives it four and one-half stars (of 5) saying "The nose brims over with black currant and smoky aromas while the glass explodes with bramble berry and cassis. This is one gutsy (supple tannin) and zesty (deftly handled acidity) well balanced red. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Roast beef , especially that pink slice, would be the go here, from now to 2010. The price to quality ratio is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)" The Juniper website describes it as "Crimson with a touch of purple in colour, the wine shows lifted blackcurrant, red cherry and mulberry fruit characters with a touch of mint and smoky vanillin oak on the nose. The palate has good flesh, juicy berry fruit and spice with a fine tannin backbone. Contains 30% old vine estate fruit." Natalie rates this 89.5/100 saying "Gorgeous aromas of black plums and dried herbs. Dry with some tannins so decant for an hour first. Drink with hearty meat dishes." My notes: A full nose of berries and smoke, a dense ruby red colour, full-bodied, smooth with plums and currants, an earthiness, dark chocolate and a rough edge that wash over the palate. The finish is long, smooth almost oily and savoury, oak blended harmoniously with the fruit and tannins that become more apparent after a few sips. Soft enough for dark fowl but robust enough for prime rib, lamb rack or shank, flavoured cheeses, a cheesy caramellized onion soup(?). A drink-now. Cellaring for several years may not improve but shouldn't spoil this red. Priced right for sure.

CHÂTEAU L'HOSPITALET ‘LA RÉSERVE' ROUGE 2003, Languedoc, France, 13.5% D, #682492 $18.95 (Tasted June 13, 2006)

A Vintages release on June 10, 2006 and described as "The wine is a blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre. A savory spice aroma leads into a full palate of luscious dark cherry, mocha and cardamom flavors that are finely crafted and balanced. This wine has a thick and rich texture and a finish that builds in intensity with espresso and dark chocolate notes. Drink now through 2009. Score - 92. (Kim Marcus, www.winespectator.com, Aug. 31, 2005)." Winecurrent.com gives it four stars (of 5) saying "The spiced plum and cherry nose opens up into a mélange of flavours including currant, black plum and medicinal notes. The texture is silky smooth and mellow with all elements well integrated. It is delicately balanced with a medium finish of tar and bramble berry. Well priced, this would set up nicely alongside rich stews, like a lamb daube. (VH)" The website has no description under the 'Proprieties' La Clape wines. " My notes: A deep ruby colour with a minty plum and cherry nose. Let breathe for twenty minutes. Medium-bodied with smooth flavours of rich black cherry, blackberry, some dark chocolate and soft spice. The flavours finish with a long smooth cherry/berry and light cigar box edge. An interesting sipper for red wine drinkers.... and great for grilled or roasted red meat entrees, there's lots of depth for full flavoured stews. Likely at peak now but cellaring for a few years wouldn't be out of the way.... not likely longer.

COX CREEK CELLARS BLACKBERRY LEGEND, Guelph, Canada, 14.0% D, 375ml #Winery $20.70* (Tasted June 12, 2006)

My notes: A ten percent discount lowered price to $18.63. Won gold medal at the Indiana State Fair 2003. A combination of blackberry (70%) and raspberry (30%) and the beautiful clear red hue shows it. A distinct raspberry nose softened by the bramble aroma of blackberry, medium- to light-bodied with natural, full berry flavours combined with their soft complementing acids and round density. A true slightly off-dry wine rather than a cordial or fruit liqueur... a great sipper with the difference of natural berries. The finish is long with lots of berry and an appropriate dry tartness. Should go with any fowl: turkey, cornish hen, pheasant or bacon on a bun - I just sipped my bottle. A versatile red as a change from 'grapes'.

RICHARD HAMILTON ‘GUMPRS' SHIRAZ 2002, McLaren Vale, Australia, 14.0% XD, #600122 $19.95 (Tasted June 10, 2006)

A Vintages release on June 10, 2006 and described as "The 2002 Shiraz 'Gumprs' Block is a good value. Vanilla, plum, cherry, and currant aromas jump from the glass of this medium-bodied, straightforward, pleasant, attractive Shiraz. Consume it over the next 1-2 years. Score - 87. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2004)." Winecurrent.com gives it four and one-half stars (of 5) saying "Ripe berry fruit and spicy black plum aromas drift from this medium-bodied offering of a perennial favourite. Blackberry and raspberry flavours abound on the palate while all else (tannin, oak, acidity) play a supportive role. The long finish delivers more ripe fruit and a dollop of racy acidity. Rack of lamb seasoned with garlic and rosemary would match well. (VH)" Their website says "Ripe up-front flavours of crushed raspberry and plums with hints of vanilla and chocolate lead to a creamy, textured mid-palate and lovely, long finish." Natalie rates this 87/100 saying "Juicy and plummy, lip-smacking delicious." My notes: A deep ruby with a purple tint and faint aromas of black cherry and berries. Medium- to full-bodied, quiet and smooth on the palate with ripe plum, black cherry and dark chocolate with subtle acids. The finish is long, bright, and builds to a fruity crescendo - has the impression of being sweet, 'lip-smacking' for sure. Open bottle was very sharp next day.... Should be a polite complement to grilled red meats, ham steak, chili sauce, full flavoured stews, roast turkey and game meats - nothing spicy. Drinking well now but if cellaring check regularly - any excuse to imbibe. A '90' to me.

JULIAN CHIVITE ‘GRAN FEUDO' RESERVA 1998, Navarra, Spain, 12.5% XD, #479014 $14.95 (Tasted June 8, 2006)

A Vintages release May 27, 2006 and described as "First released fourteen months ago, this is a good repurchase as the wine has held up nicely. Still characterized by cherry and plum fruit with good acidity and creamy oak. Tannin is a touch softer now and there is a hint of dried fruit. Good length. Drink through 2007. Score: 87 (Jefferson Davis, Wine Access, ‘First In Line E-Report', Jan. 21, 2006)." My notes: After a half hour breathing there's a clearer aroma of oaky plum. Deep ruby, medium-bodied with a dry approach of 'dull' black cherry with a hint of mint. The finish is short, dry and somewhat earthy. A meal wine... for grilled red meat, red sauced pasta or meat pizzas, burgers. I'd guess it's just past peak and won't get better with cellaring. A heavily process driven old world red.

CARPINETO ‘DOGAJOLO' TOSCANO 2004, Tuscany, Italy, 13.0% XD, #461897 $19.95 (Tasted June 6, 2006)

A Vintages release on May 27, 2006, May Wine of the Month and described as "This critically acclaimed 2004 vintage (“Best Budget Red Wine”, Score: 4 (of 5), The Sydney Morning Herald, October 2005; Score: 4 (of 5), Decanter, ‘Italy Edition 2005') is a blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%). Year after year, it's one of our favourites. It goes beautifully with roasts, grilled meats and cold cuts. We also recommend it for everything from a quiet dinner for two, to a wedding reception. You will not be disappointed." The website says: "Dogajolo is bottled between the last week of March and the first week of April of the year after harvest. It is excellent when young, but as with any red wine of good mettle, it ages well. The colour is deep garnet with violet reflections. Very fruity bouquet, intense, with hints of cherry, coffee, vanilla and spice. Has a full flavour, soft on the palate, complex, well developed." My notes: A mid-ruby with a just-perceptible nose, perhaps a soft leather and mint - let breathe a half hour. Medium-bodied to light-, a touch of oak with drying tannins and a light acid mixed in with red cherry and faint plum. The process has added as much as the fruit in this meal time red. Have with tasty cheeses, grilled red meat dishes, pepperoni pizza with tomato, green pepper and mushroom, hot italian sausage and savoury stews. The long, dry finish begs for food following. An overpriced drink-now - perhaps cellaring but I don't think there's anywhere to go.

RED BICYCLETTE SYRAH 2004, Midi, France, 13.0% D, #586776 $16.95 (Tasted June 5, 2006)

A Vintages release on July 23, 2005 and produced by Le Caves de Sieur d'Arques. Described as "The cartoon man riding a bicycle with baguettes in his basket and a dog trailing behind is only half the story of 'Red Bicyclette', the other half is in the bottle. This supple, easy-drinking Syrah is an excellent choice for your summer barbecue." Their website says "deep purple to almost black in hue, this wine entices with subtle aromas of cassis and spice..... generous blackberry flavour - rich and jammy - enlivened by hints of red cherry, black currant and ripe plum. Savour with grilled lamb, spicy sauces or .. pork chops with Dijon mustard." My notes: A deep ruby red with earthy aromas of red cherries, plum and spice. A tartness comes before flavours of cassis and jammy, dry blackberries. A red without finesse leaving the palate tart and dry.... no fruit nor mellowness. Not a sipper. Not cellarable. If you're stuck with a bottle have with spicy chili, bbq'd ribs, hamburger with melted cheddar and a slice of back bacon.

KIM CRAWFORD PINOT NOIR 2004, Marlborough, NZ, 14.0% XD, #626390 $19.95 (Tasted June 3, 2006)

A Vintages release on May 27, 2006 and described as "Light ruby colour leads to aromas that suggest cranberry, strawberry, earth and mineral tones. Dry and crisp with a good fruit/mineral aroma replays in the mouth. This medium-bodied wine will definitely reward 1-3 years in a cellar. (VINTAGES panel, March 2006)." Winecurrent.com rates it four stars (of five) saying: "Light-bodied and lightly-coloured, this is not light on aromas or flavour. It offers up spicy plum and hints of oak on the nose with flavours in the cherry and black plum spectrum. Well balanced, it delivers a lengthy finish and a touch of elegance. Not many Pinots of this calibre for under $20. Try with planked salmon and dilled potatoes. (VH)." Gordon Stimmell says "The best value.... with black cherry, violets and earthy strawberry notes, very approachable, quite delicious...89/100" My notes: A light ruby with full aroma of strawberry, red cherries and slight cranberry. The flavour follows the aroma: light-bodied, strawberry, somewhat dry on the palate and a trace of cream. Finishes with a soft strawberry, the cream note and ending with a slight grass. A good light pinot, by itself or with mild cheeses, bacon-on-a-bun, asparagus or brocoli based soups, cold or hot ham slices, pork, turkey, chicken.... and flavoured seafood dishes. Cellaring should increase roundness and mellow the slight grassy edge - try a year at a time

ALICE WHITE CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHIRAZ 2005 TETRA, New South Wales, Australia, 13.5% D, 500ml, #665489 $7.95 (Tasted June 2, 2006)

A General release with no description on the LCBO website but states this is a 'Hardy Wine Company' product. Hardy is a Constellation Brands Inc. winery, however the Hardy website doesn't list 'Alice White' as one of their brands. The Roo's Rack website (a marketing website for Alice White wines) describes this as "...an artful blend of the vibrant fruit of Australian Shiraz with the classic elegance of cabernet sauvignon. A bold and full-bodied wine – great for everyday enjoyment." My notes: The label says South Eastern Australia and a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% shiraz. Under Australian wine regulations this wine can be made from grapes gathered anywhere in this extensive Australian state/province. A clear ruby with light plum and red cherry nose. Light-bodied with thin flavours of red cherry, a drying tannin and light acid... the finish falls off quickly without spice, fruit, acid, ...... a dry nothing. Not a drink-now, not cellarable, not recommended.

Thursday, June 01, 2006

June Whites (9): Chile Sauv Blanc, Australia Chard, Australia Bubbles, France Muscadet, France Pinot Gris(2), Canada Vidal, NZ Viognier, Canada Chard

SANTA RITA SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2005, Casablanca/Leyda, Chile, XD 13.5%, #275677 $12.55 (Tasted June 21, 2006)

A General listing described as "Straw yellow colour; Intense herbal, grassy, cooked asparagus and gooseberry aromas; Dry, medium bodied with gooseberry/citrus and mint flavours; pronounced acidity on finish. Serve with seafood, goat cheese, vegetarian dishes, herbed dishes." The website says (2004 vintage) "Grapes are from Casablanca Valley 95%, Leyda 5%. The colour is a pale straw green colored wine; intense varietal aroma with dominant characters of grapefruit, citrus blooms, apricots and a black currant background of cassis tones. Good potency and concentration, a balanced wine with good acidity and a long lingering aftertaste." My notes: A floral nose full of gooseberries and sweet honey. Colour is light golden, crystal clear in the glass and crisp flavours of gooseberries and citrus. Finishes long, dry, clean and fruity. A good sipper or have with seafood: cold or hot. Should be able to cellar for a few years but drinking well now.

LINDEMANS BIN 65 CHARDONNAY 2005, South Eastern Australia, D 13.5%, #142117 $9.95* (Tasted June 19, 2006)

A General release described as "Light yellow gold colour; floral with citrus and vanilla aromas; ripe fruit flavours; soft clean finish. Serve with grilled shrimps; lemon chicken; tuna steak." and reduced one dollar until mid July. My notes: A Southcorp Wines winery. A faint blond colour with a light tropical citrus, gooseberry and honey nose. The acid is well balanced with light flavours of soft citrus - no butter nor butterscotch but a touch of 'sur lies' creaminess - no oak apparent. Medium- to light-bodied finishing with a touch of oil on the lips, clean without being crisp. Should be able to cellar for a year or two but essentially a drink-now with white fish dishes, baked salmon and dill, creamy pastas as long as not spicy. If you expect an unoaked chard its OK at the reduced price imho.

YELLOWGLEN 'YELLOW', Australia, 11.2% D, #592980 $11.95 (Retasted June 15, 2006)

My notes: Cellared and then tasted June 2005 (see Archives) with the following comment "One of 'Yellow, Pink and Red' from Yellowglen (a Beringer Blass company), the colour is very pale blond with a soft yeasty citrus nose. Lots of fine but not moussy bubbles that sparkle on the palate. Flavour is a light lemony honeydew, extra dry without the bite of a brut. The finish accumulates pleasantly on the tongue and is still spritzy after several minutes etc." This tasting I had with some 'President Choice' shortbread cookies and everything mellowed well. Just goes to show what it could do with oysters, mussels, etc. A relaxing bubbly with enough tartness to surprise the palate and enough yeastiness to be smooth. A value at the price..... I've heard the next Vintages release will be in August along with Yellowglen's 'Pink' - can't wait!!! Hopefully it won't be 'tiered lower' or priced higher. A drink-now value but has cellared well for the last year.

CAVE VINICOLE A HUNAWIHR HAUT-RHIN TOKAY PINOT GRIS 1999, Alsace, France, 13.5% D, #CP135-1763 $20.67 (Tasted June 14, 2006)

Ordered from Opimian and cellared in 2001 their writeup describes this white as having "the exquisitely pure Tokay characters which pile the flavours of one exotic fruit upon another. It already has an enviable balance but the underlying richness of the vintage needs more time to develop the rounded, low acid appeal which will combine a delicate log smoke impression with hints of rich spice and freshly roasted almonds." My notes: Now is a rich golden straw with aromas of wildflowers, honey, and spicy tropical fruit perhaps a combination of light papaya and melon. A full-bodied medley of tropical fruit with well balanced acids and a round mouthfeel. The finish is moderate leaving a light pear-almond flavouring. Is a pleasant aperitif (OK even when the chill goes) but better with cold chicken on greens, smoked salmon, pork-rice wraps or Thai. Has survived an extended cellaring nicely but won't improve from here.

DOMAINE DE GRAND MAISON MUSCADET DE SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE 2003, Ste Fiacre, France, 12.0% D, #525279 $13.95 (Tasted June 13, 2006)

A Vintages release on June 10, 2006 and described as "Muscadet is made with the Melon de Bourgogne grape and this example is very expressive of the variety, with aromas and flavours of apple, melon, citrus, mineral and pine resin. It is dry, fresh, bright and vibrant. Enjoy with steamed clams or mussels. (VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2005)." Winecurrent.com rates it four stars (of 5) saying "Toasty, yeasty notes form the aromatic profile of the expressive nose while the palate is treated to spicy apple and lemon zest flavours. This is medium-bodied and extremely well balanced. The medium finish is very clean with citrus and mineral tones complementing the green apple flavour. The price to quality ratio suggests a multiple purchase for summer and fall sipping. (VH)" Their website says "The wine comes from entirely handpicked grapes, fermented for 20 days at low temperature. It will then rest on lees ... which will enrich its flavour and smoothness. It has a pale yellow colour and delicate flavours (white flowers, almonds) and a fruity taste, dry but ample." My notes: A very light straw colour with faint wildflower and honey tones - the rest is beyond my sense and imagination. The flavours are dry citrus, light crab apple, pine resin - a light creaminess, fresh and bright although I found the acids to be too light to be 'vibrant'. Serve well chilled. The finish is short and somewhat like an unripe honeydew melon. Should go with anything fishy: mussels, scallops, shrimp, white fish dishes although not likely to cleanse the palate if too rich. A drink-now, a good Muscadet de S et M and priced right.

PIERRE SPARR PINOT GRIS RÉSERVE 2004, Alsace, France, 13.0% MD, #983395 $17.95 (Tasted June 10, 2006)

A Vintages release on June 10, 2006 and described as "An excellent example of the medium dry style of Pinot Gris that Alsace does so well. Try this rich and ripe pear/peach-centric example with grilled salmon, tuna or pork roast. (VINTAGES panel, Dec. 2005)." Winecurrent.com rates it four one-half stars (of 5) saying "The nose is all about sweet ripe fruit - peaches, yellow plums and pears. The wine is highly textured and fleshy on the palate with more sweet ripe flavours - peach, nectarine and melon. There is a lovely spine of acidity to balance, and it runs through to the tangy zesty finish. This well-structured off-dry beauty would be the perfect foil to spicy Asian dishes. (VH)." The label says: "Terrific nose of apple, pear, peach and quince with spicy mineral elements. Mouthfilling flavour that finishes with fruity notes. Racy and complex, intense yet graceful. etc." My notes: A rich straw colour with ripe fruit aromas as in the winecurrent note and the label.... and the flavour and finish as well. The sweetness isn't 'in your face' offset by a mild acid. Goes well with full flavoured fish dishes, szechuan or spicy Thai. Cellaring for a year or two may 'age' the fruit producing a spicier structure although it is drinking well-rounded and smooth now. I'd set an expectation of 'mid-sweet' rather than 'mid-dry' though.

NCT WINERY LATE HARVEST VIDAL 2002, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada, 10.0% ~SC8 375ml, #Winery $21.95 (Tasted June 5, 2006)

My notes: Won bronze at the 2004 Ontario Wine Awards and has full aromas of ripe papaya and sultana raisins. Medium-bodied with a golden colour. Flavours of light peach and pear smooth with bright honey. A zip starts the finish which is a long apricot and pear with a soft oil on the lips. A pleasant aperitif by itself or with pieces of pear, apple, grapes, etc. Did not add anything with tiramisu but should with a mild cheese and pineapple wedges. Cellared a year now and likely will another year or two. A different sweet sipper to have on hand - chill and have with shaved ice as a cooler.

COOPERS CREEK VIOGNIER 2005, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 14.5% D, #694828 $22.95 (Tasted June 3, 2006)

A Vintages release of May 27, 2006 and described as "Pretty perfumed nose at first, then whiffs of lilac, peach, honey and nectarine. Dry, light-bodied with good, gentle fruit replays. An excellent summertime sipper for those lazy afternoons on the patio. (Vintages panel, March 2006)." Beppi Crosariol says: "characteristically floral viognier scent is followed on the palate by notes of tangerine and honey, with a viscous texture and long finish." My notes: A very light wildclover nose, sweet and floral with a light blond colour - I didn't get lilac or peach. Medium- to light-bodied with a noticeable roundness on the tongue, flavours of distant tangerine peel leaving a citrus tang on the palate slowly ebbing to 'chewed lemon seed'. A reasonable alternative to a sauvignon blanc or chard as a cool sipper. Perhaps add some shaved ice and few ounces of lemon Perrier for brightness. There wasn't enough acid for fish and chips... more appropriate with grilled telapia, scallop or shrimp skewers, cold chicken breast and a mild green salad. A drink-now and not a value imho.

EASTDELL BARRELL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2003, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% D, #651505 $18.95 (Tasted June 1, 2006)

The label says "fermented in American and Hungarian oak. Notes of tropical fruit and vanilla are followed by a balanced finish. Pair with smoked fish and vegetable dishes." The Eastdell website says "Won Gold at Cuvée 2005 (Niagara wines) and has a long mellow finish with subtle oak." Another website says "This Chardonnay was hand and machine-harvested from our Walnut Grove Vineyard. French and American barrels were used during fermentation and aging with careful monitoring to achieve exactly the right balance of crisp cool-climate Chardonnay and rich, complex depth. The final blending took place in August 2004." My notes: Yes, but what about the wine? A light straw colour with a nose of lemon and pineapple. A light creaminess with flavours of lemon with a hint of pineapple and some dry sharpness. The finish is strong, tart, moderately long, bright with slight creaminess and leaving more than a hint of lemon. Have with seafood appetizers, asparagus spears on cold salad, ie. makes a nice aperitif but can be low on acid for a main course. Was marginally light with grilled salmon, salad and parmesan draped foccacia. A drink-now.

Saturday, May 27, 2006

More May Whites (4): NZ Sauv Blanc, Australia Blend, Italy Brut(2)

BABICH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #560144 $16.95 (Tasted May 31, 2006)

A Vintages release May 27, 2006 and described as "The 2005 vintage reflects the rising input of grapes from the company's Cowslip Valley vineyard in the Waihopai Valley, described by Babich as giving ‘riper, less herbaceous' fruit characters than its Awatere Valley and Wairau Valley vineyards. It's a fleshy, full-bodied wine ... with tropical-fruit flavours to the fore, moderate acidity, good freshness, dryness and depth, and great drinkability. Score - 4 (out of 5). (Michael Cooper, Buyer's Guide to New Zealand Wines 2006)." The Babich website describes this as "a lifted and pungent bouquet, with passion fruit and pineapple fighting for dominance among a fruit salad of contenders. The palate is powerful and rich. Flavours of gooseberry and pear join the tropical fruit following on from the nose. The wine is weighty and has a lingering and crisp finish." Winecurrent.com rates it four 1/2 stars (of five) saying "The quintessential nose of passion fruit and minerality sets up this medium-bodied SB nicely. The flavour profile is all about ripe fruit flavours (guava, melon and pineapple) that are balanced off with zingy (lemon) acidity. This has excellent structure and balance right through to the clean, laser-like finish. Sip on its own or try with smoked salmon with cream cheese and caper berries.... Quality to price ratio tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)." My notes: A very light blond with a pronounced gooseberry nose. The flavour is pleasantly tart balancing gooseberry, melon and kiwi fruit. The finish starts as bright fruit and fades as lemon pucker and grass. Lost it with cold lobster pieces and baked potato. Perhaps a mild whitefish, broiled or baked with rissoto would be more appropriate. A drink-now.

ALICE WHITE SEMILLON CHARDONNAY 2005 TETRA, South Eastern Australia, 13.5% D, 500ml, #665497 $7.95 (Tasted May 30, 2006)

A General release with no description on the LCBO website but states that it's a 'Hardy Wine Company' product. Hardy is a Constellation Brands Inc. winery, however the Hardy website doesn't list the 'Alice White' brand. The Roo's Rack website, a U.S. marketing outlet for Alice White wines, describes this as "A refreshing, lighter-bodied wine with aromas of pear, melon and green apple. This delicate blend is 60% semillon and 40% chardonnay." My notes: The first 'tetra pak' I've tried although with premonitions of 'wines of mass production' leaping through my head. Grapes for this white can be collected from anywhere in South Eastern Australia under Australian wine production regulations. A light blond, a slightly perceptible grassy nose and flavours to match; some melon and pear but predominantly grassy with a mouthfeel that's full, not sweet perhaps glycerine-like. The finish is soft and grassy. No interest as a sipper - flat and 'off' ... would go with chicken entrees or seafood if you're stuck with a tetra or two.... not recommended imho.

SANTA MARGHERITA PROSECCO DI VALDOBBIADENE BRUT, Veneto, Italy, 11.5% D, #687582 $17.95 (Tasted May 28, 2006)

A Vintages release on May 27, 2006 and described as "From the producers of the most popular wine in our Essentials Collection, Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio (#106450), comes this fresh, flavourful, crowd-pleasing sparkling wine. Enjoy it as a reception wine or with light pasta or fish dishes." The website says of this Prosecco "The Charmat method is used for this wine, this being the most suitable procedure if sparkling wines are to be made from very highly-flavoured grapes. Sparkling wine with a clean nose, pleasantly fruity, with whiffs of rennet apples and peach blossoms. Delicate, balanced taste. Excellent as an aperitif, ideal with small fish or cheese snacks or all-meal with delicate dishes. Serve at 8°-10°C (46°-50°F)" My notes: A light yeasty birthday cake nose and tiny bubbles that bring pear and apple flavours to the palate. Dry enough to be tart but there's creamy, sweet fruit in the body. The finish is long fading into mellow melon and light lemon. Have with any seafood: cold appetizers or hot pasta dishes or festive occasion. A drink-now but could cellar up to two years - longer if a drier bubbly is preferred.

FOSS MARAI PROSECCO EXTRA DRY 'BLUE BOTTLE', Italy, 11.5% XD, #729392 $17.95 (Tasted May 27, 2006)

A Vintages release on May 13, 2006 and described as "A well made prosecco with fruit depth and lively acidity that would work nicely as an aperitif. Fresh and enticing nose of lemon, grapefruit and a touch of spice. Sufficient fruit concentration for the money. Crisp, clean and dry with good balance and length. Score - 87 (Jeff Davis, Wine Access, 'First In Line E-Report', Sept. 2005)." The website says "...is presented with a variety of aromas, with a distinctive harmonious mingle of acacia and apple. The taste continues with a sensation of bitter fruit, where the acidity and residual sugar are splendidly harmonised, leaving a velvety sensation to the palate, stimulated by the co2, never too pungente, but stimulating to the right point." My notes: An attractive thin-necked blue bottle.... and I can't add too much to the website's review... it's a soft, pleasant bubbly with enough flavours for interest and a continuous stream of fine bubbles for liveliness. 'Extra Dry'? I don't think so. The residual sugar is well balanced and consequently hidden by the acidity producing a smooth, creamy finish with light grapefruit, almond and a toastiness. From chilled to almost room temperature it's a great drink-now on any occasion or with any seafood, mild cheese or Italian shaved meat appetizer.

Monday, May 22, 2006

More May Reds (7): Australia Blend, Australia Cab Sauv(2), Australia Shiraz(3), Argentina Blend

ELDERTON ‘FRIENDS' CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003, Barossa, Australia, 14.5% XD, #595389 $17.95 (Tasted May 31, 2006)

A Vintages release on May 27, 2006 and described as "The dense ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon 'Friends' reveals superb fruit along with an up-front, exuberant character displaying licorice, high quality cigar smoke, and cassis. While not complex, low acidity, an opulent, fleshy mouthfeel, and a long finish suggest this savory Cabernet will drink well for 4-6 years. Score - 89. (Robert Parker Jr., http://www.erobertparker.com/, Oct. 2005)." Winecurrent.com rates it four 1/2 stars (of five) saying "Elderton, better known for Shiraz - "Best Shiraz in the World - 1996", also knows how to make Cab. They won the Jimmy Watson for their 1992. The plum and vanilla notes off the nose quickly dissolve into rich, racy, complex flavours of sweet (14.5% alc.) ripe cherries, savoury and tobacco. The luxurious finish has mocha and berry fruit. Drink now to 2010 with grilled medium-rare beef steak. After I get mine, you can stock up. (VH)." My notes: The Elderton winery describes this as a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and 5% Merlot. Half the grapes came from the Barossa Valley, the remaining from the Eden Valley. A rich ruby red with a purple hue, the nose is soft plum and licorice easily filling a large bowl with smooth but penetrating aromas. Medium- to full-bodied, silky, faint plum and rich mature black cherry flavours with fine, drying tannins and a light acid. The finish peaks quickly then slowly fades so it's easy to dismiss as moderate. Pair with grilled or roasted red meats: prime rib, ribs, chili con carne, lamb, etc. Cellaring will build body - I'd try after two years and see where it's going.

SANDALFORD ‘ELEMENT' SHIRAZ/CABERNET 2004, Western Australia, 14.0% D, #683904 $15.95 (Tasted May 30, 2006)

A Vintages release on May 27, 2006 and described as "The 2004 growing season in Western Australia was unusually hot and dry, creating wines that are more fruit forward than usual. Enjoy this blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Shiraz with grilled lamb chops, gourmet sausages or barbecue backribs." Winecurrent rates it four 1/2 stars (of five) saying "From a respected and premium WA winery, this is a "well" wine - well made, well priced and well worth a purchase. It is one delicious mouthful of juicy, ripe black fruit with a sprig of mint blended in. It is smooth and approachable, but also has a bit of oomph from deftly handled oak, ripe tannins and nice dash of tang. The lengthy finish suggests rack of lamb with mint sauce on the side. At this price you can stock up. (VH)." The Sandalford website doesn't have a description of the 2004 vintage. My notes: A clear, mid ruby, a penetrating red currant and blueberry nose and a velvet flavour of red berries with a hint of mint. The finish fades quickly with a spicy bite and some drying tannins leftover. Was good with red sauced ground beef pasta... should as well with grilled ribs, steaks, lamb, etc. OK as a drink-now but better if cellared for two years (minimum) to mellow it more.

ALICE WHITE SHIRAZ South Australia, Australia, 13.5% D, #550517 $12.80 (Tasted May 28, 2006)

A General release with no description on the LCBO website although stating that this is a product of the Canandaigua Wine Company which is a Constellation Brands Inc. Company. I'd guess it's produced by the Hardy Wine Company but the brand isn't listed on their website. The Roo's Rack website (a marketing website for Alice White wines) describes this shiraz as "...has a deep, rich ruby red color with notes of plum and berry on the nose. The wine is robust and full-bodied on the palate with nice fresh fruit." My notes: The grapes can be gathered from anywhere in South Australia and converted to this brand. Ordered with a grilled rib eye steak at a local steak house (marked up to $38 - ouch!). Memories of '2$Chuck' with shallow viniferal flavours and general lack of structure. It went OK with the grilled steak. A soft berry nose, flavours of light pepper, some berries and soft tannins with balanced acid. Drinkable? Yes. Would I order again? No, too many better alternatives.

LINDEMANS RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003, South Australia, Australia, 13.5% D, #621607 $14.95 (Tasted May 25, 2006)

Gord Stimmell rates it 90/100 saying "Fairly new to most shelves, this is a real winner. Full, minty, black cherry and black plum aromas lead into smoky, cedar-accented black cherry flavours. The finish is full of lingering finesse, with chocolate, plum and minty cassis. With a velvet texture, this is a real power trip, and fab value. Serve with marinated lamb chops." The label says "This vibrant purple and crimson wine is brimming with blackberry, violet, mint and vanilla oak flavours. etc." My notes: Lindemans is a Southcorp brand. A deep ruby with mint, cassis and plum aromas albeit very light - develops in the glass. Medium-bodied and has a delicate approach to the palate, well balanced with soft tannins blending with plum, black cherry and smoke. The finish is long and has a different accent, perhaps of very ripe(not overripe) plum and minty oak. Should go nicely with prime rib, filet mignon, ham steak, rack of lamb. A drink-now... there's likely a year left to cellar. More like an 88/100 to me although worth the price.

LINDEMANS RESERVE PADTHAWAY SHIRAZ 2004, Padthaway, Australia, 13.5% D, #482299 $14.95 (Tasted May 25, 2006)

A General listing described as "Opaque ruby colour; intense cassis, raspberry, chocolate and spicy vanilla aromas; dry, full bodied, with dark berries, black pepper, spice and coffee flavours on the palate. Serve with barbequed lamb, spicy sausage or ribs." The label says "This vibrant purple and crimson wine is brimming with plum, raspberry, black pepper and vanilla oak flavours. etc." My notes: Lindemans is a Southcorp brand. Colour is a deep ruby with a red raspberry tint to match a nose of light berries. Medium-bodied and a softness in the first swallow followed by warm flavours of plum, raspberry with a pepper edge. The finish is long, blue and red berryish with some light spice. An OK sipper better with grilled red meats: beef, lamb, back ribs or the spicy sausages above. A drink-now - not outstanding but pleasant enough and worth the price.

TYRRELL'S 'THE LONG FLAT VINEYARD' SHIRAZ 2000, New South Wales, Australia, 13.5% D, #536763 $11.75 (Retasted May 23, 2006)

My notes: A General listing. The 2000 was cellared January, 2002 and last tasted June, 2005. The 'Long Flat' label was sold by Tyrrell in May, 2003 and later vintages of the brand is now offered by the Cheviot Bridge winery (products inset) although not clearly stated on the label. The LCBO website continues to refer to 'Tyrrell's Vineyards' as producer. The 2000 is a rich ruby, medium-bodied, well balanced and now has a full black cherry and raspberry flavour with a nose that's just perceptible as soft plum with a pepper edge. The finish is long with silky tannins, sweet cherry and light vanilla. Likely at peak - and this is the last bottle in the cellar 8-( .

MASI TUPUNGATO PASSO DOBLE ROSSO 2003, Argentina, 13.5% D, #620880 $14.95 (Retasted May 22, 2006)

My notes: Was a General listing when purchased. Previously tasted June, 2005 with the comment '... lots of tannin for cellaring and plum, cherries and a light vanilla. The finish is long with drying notes along with lip-licking value.' The colour is a rich ruby with warm plum, ripe black cherry nose and a background of soft cedar. After a year in the cellar the flavours are essentially the same however the fruits are not so forward and the structure is smoother with well integrated fine tannin and light acid that carry through to a long warm finish - still a lip-licking value.