Monday, May 01, 2006

May Reds (13): NZ PN,France Blend, Canada Foch(2), Canada PN, Australia Shir, Australia Blend(3), Italy Blend(3), Australia PN

GOVERNOR'S BAY PINOT NOIR 2003, South Island, New Zealand, 12.5%, #656405 $18.95 (Retasted May 20, 2006)

My notes: A Vintages release August 20, 2005 and last tasted August, 2005 with the comment '... airing awhile helps considerably.' No need to air as it pours a beautiful light strawberry-ruby with aromas of raspberry, strawberry and cranberry in the glass. Lots of the same berry flavours mingle on a silky thread of mild acid and tannins, and a roundness on the palate. The finish is long, smooth and carries with it a medley of flavour changes to enjoy. An interesting light-bodied sipper or with a range of entrees - tasty seafood dishes, chicken, turkey, lamb, pork or ham. I'll cellar for another while to see what happens but likely is drinking at peak now.

RIDDOCH COONAWARRA CABERNET MERLOT 2002, South Australia, 13.5%, #713255 $15.95 (Retasted May 19, 2006)

Vintages released August 20, 2005 quoting a rating of 88 by the Wine Enthusiast, May 2005." My notes: Last tasted in August, 2005 with the comment 'a soft berry nose with a light oak and some warm mint from a deep ruby colour. Light tannins support a medley of soft berries and spice. A great sipper alone or with a range of cheeses, chicken wings, or grilled short ribs. etc. ...cellar two to three years.' Let breathe a tad .. the same nose, flavours and finish altho' seems to be a tad smoother after nine months. I don't believe cellaring will have any substantial benefit.

WOLF BLASS CABERNET MERLOT 1999, South Australia, 13.0% #611483 $16.95 (Retasted May 16, 2006)

My notes: Cellared July, 2002.... with three to six years suggested. Last tasted June 2005. Now a clear mid ruby with a warm, soft nose of plums and cherries. The first swallow warms the palate and has ripe cherry flavours with faint tannins, light acid and a licorice note. Light- to medium-bodied and has a long finish with a ripe red cherry fading to a cool cedar edge... a rewarding sipper by itself or with aged cheddar nibbles or cheddar/caramelized onions and wheat thins. Should be great with any meat: pork, beef, light game, chicken or red pastas. Likely won't improve with further cellaring.

CUVEE DES ARDOISES DES ERLES FITOU 2003, Fitou, France, 13.5% XD, #949222 $16.95 (Tasted May 14, 2006)

Part of Vintages May 13, 2006 release and described as "seductive, aromatic red, with pretty red cherry and spiced apple flavor and some decadent meaty notes in the mix. Fresh, fruity finish. Drink now. Score - 87. (Kim Marcus, www.winespectator.com, July 31, 2005)." The label describes this as a blend of carignan, syrah and grenache calling it "unctuous and rich, with a great complexity of aromas..... can be kept for ageing...but... ready to drink." Beppi says it's "one of the best values in today's release. ... rich and chewy, with luscious flavours of ripe plum, black cherry, licorice and herbs." Natalie says "Cedar, pine needles and cherries. Simple and delicious. Drink with barbecue fare. Score: 87/100." Winecurrent gives this four stars (of five) saying "The tannins here are still pretty big, but if you decant the wine or pair it up with a juicy, medium-rare (at most) steak, you'll do fine. It's .. blend... delivers flavours of sweet fruit and berries with spicy and gamey notes. (RP)" My notes: A Lurton wine. A mid ruby red with a 'cotton candy' nose of soft berries, rasp- and straw-. A swallow covers the palate with berries, a hint of licorice and a tannic mouthfeel which fades quickly into a long, dry, plum, cherry and spice finish. It's drinking well now as a dry sipper and was great with pork chops. Pair with grilled steak, prime rib, lamb shank, and stew. Cellaring a year or two could produce a value mellow sipper and dinner red.

MALIVOIRE OLD VINES FOCH 2002 (Canadian Oak), Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5%, Winery $25.00 (Retasted May 11, 2006)

My notes: Cellared November, 2003 and last tasted October 2005. A dark see-through ruby with a pinkish, grenache-like edge, a cherry, blackberry nose with a soft cedar and vanilla note. Medium-bodied, a sharp acid on a well structure flavour of ripe red cherries - nice tannins. A smooth, european style, dry sipper with some brightness and pucker. The finish is long and tart red cherry. Pair with any red meat prepared in any way, savoury or spicy. The 1999 is fuller with more complex flavours. Will cellar a few more years.

MALIVOIRE OLD VINES FOCH 1999, Beamsville, Canada, 13.5% XD, Winery $18.95 (Tasted May 10, 2006)

My notes: Cellared July 2001. Now an approachable foch tasted a year ago (May, 2005) when it had a distinct 'fochiness' - no need to let breathe now (but it's still a Foch). Has two years remaining in the predicted cellaring of 2008. A deep garnet with a nose of light cedar and soft plums. Medium- to full-bodied, smooth on the palate with soft tannins, well balanced acid and integrated flavours of plums, earthy mushrooms and soft vanilla. Drinking well now as a dry european style sipper or paired with game meats, stews, steaks, lamb, duck - nothing too spicy but full flavoured. The finish is velvety, long with pleasing vanilla notes.

MALIVOIRE MOIRA VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2000, Beamsville, Canada, 13.5% XD, Winery $35.95 (Retasted May 9, 2006)

My notes: Cellared in December, 2001 and tasted in March and November, 2005. Airing for twenty minutes no longer needed... has a light smoke, cherry and vanilla nose. Medium-bodied, well balanced acid and tannin with an interesting savoury 'cherry coke' flavour but without the sweetness - a european red. A dry sipper and went well with warmed up meatroll and mashed potatoes. Should be OK with any grilled red beef, rack of lamb, pork chops, sweet italian sausage, mild pizzas, and dark bird meats. Compared with recent Pinot Noirs interesting but not a value.

JEANNERET CLAIRE VALLEY SHIRAZ 2002, Clare Valley, Australia, 14.5% XD, #732891* $15.95 (Retasted May 7, 2006)

My notes: A Vintages release in October, 2004. Purchased at a bargain price and cellared October 2004 - originally rated a 92/100 (* could be #994962 @ $24.95). Last tasted October 5, 2004 with a comment "lots of black currant, plum/raspberry, little bit of pepper with enough tannins to last for years." Still has the light ruby colour with a warm cedar and black currant nose - not as strong as originally but natural and very pleasant. Medium-bodied, palate puckering with flavours of tart black currant not as full in the mouth. A long finish, dry with bright fruit. Very sippable. Pair with any red meat... went well with meat loaf roll with cheese breads. Cellarable for a few more years yet. The Jeanneret website doesn't list recent vintages (!?)

CONCHA Y TORO 'TRIO' CABERNET SAUVIGNON/SHIRAZ/CABERNET FRANC 2003, Chile, 14.0% XD, #433912 $14.95 (Retasted May 7, 2006)

Vintages supposedly released the 2004 on April 29, 2006 - bought without looking then found out there's nothing but 2003's on the shelf in three local LCBO's. The description on the Vintages website is "Concha Y Toro consistently overachieves with every line they produce. For the popular 'Trio' range, the winery sources the three grapes varieties in each blend from the best regions: this power-packed, ripe and spicy red is from the Maipo Valley. The winery's website features recipes tailor-made for each wine in the series. They recommend beef fillets with crunchy mashed potatoes and grilled spring onions for this one." - ie. nothing about the 2004 wine. My notes: Last tasted January 3, 2006 with the comment "... A medium-bodied blend of cabernet sauvignon (70%), shiraz (15%) and cabernet franc (15%). A smooth, light plum nose leading to a smooth, pepper edged plum and black cherry fruit with a long plummy finish. A house red that is light- and smooth enough for most guests but neither fruity nor full- enough for most red drinkers...etc. " I take that back.... most red drinkers would find this a very sippable dry red...... Great with a rolled meatroll with snow peas and cheese draped mashed potatoes. Now is a long cherry and black currant dry finish. A good drink-now and cellarable for a few years yet.

FALASCO VALPOLICELLA VALPANTENA RIPASSO 2003, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% D, #642421 $16.95 (Tasted May 6, 2006)

A Vintages release on April 29, 2006 and described as "An old favourite here at Vintages, this Valpolicella Ripasso always delivers the goods. This vintage displays aromas of plum, cherry, chocolate, leather and tobacco. It is dry and supple with a sweet centre, medium-body and substantial finish. Enjoy with grilled lamb chops. (VINTAGES panel, Nov. 2005)" My notes: A blend of Corvina and Rondinella grapes. Some but not much 'ripasso'. ie. fermenting on dried grape skins used to make Amarone, in the nose with more red than black cherries with some soft oak. Medium-bodied with a dark red cherry colour and flavours of red cherries and plums, fruit driven sweetness, soft tannins and a light acid edge. The long finish has a balance of tannins, cherry fruit and pencil shavings. Cellaring a few years may increase smoothness but it's drinking well now.

CARDINHAM CABERNET/MERLOT 2003, Clare Valley, Australia, 13.8% XD, #694570 $18.95 (Tasted May 4, 2006)

A Vintages release on February 4, 2006 and described as "This family vineyard operation supplied prized Clare Valley fruit to some high profile wineries for twenty years before releasing their first estate grown product in 2001. Expect vibrant currant fruit, eucalyptus and bell pepper notes in this fresh medium-bodied blend." The Cardinham website did not list the 2003 Cab/Merlot but described the 2003 vintage year as "... subject to some of nature’s biggest challenges, drought and frost having significant impact on the early development of vines at bud burst. Late rains provided a refreshing relief from the dry conditions and more importantly, moisture to fill out and develop the fruit on the vine." My notes: Has a murky ruby colour and after airing briefly, a nose of overripe plums. Medium- to full-bodied with a velvet-smooth mouthfeel, fine tannins, white pepper and a flavour of bruised black cherries leaving a long, smooth finish reminiscent of a musty book. Decanting may help.... but I'll avoid the vintage. This bottle will be saved for a full-flavoured stew - it has a screwtop.

FARNESE ‘DON CAMILLO' SANGIOVESE 2002 (and 2004), Ortona, Italy, 13.0% D, #643189 $14.95 ($14.95) (Tasted May 1, 2006)

The 2002 vintage was available from Vintages on September 18, 2004 and the 2004 on April 29, 2006. Vintages describes the 2004 as "... very New World in style; expect a lot of blackberry and oak aromas and flavours. It is intense and flavourful with a long plush finish. Enjoy with spaghetti and meatballs." The Farnese website says "A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Ortona district. An intense garnet red colour, fruity fragrance with jam aroma and cherry preserved in alcohol, a scent of spicy notes of liquorice, vanilla and faded flowers. Full-bodied, soft, tannic, of a fine quality, with a pleasant bitter aftertaste, ready for immediate use. Serve between 16 and 18° C. Best served with salami, savoury first courses, excellent with meat and cheese or as a sipper. " My notes: The 2002 was cellared in September 2004. Both have a rich ruby colour with the 2002 retaining a soft plum and cherry nose whereas the 2004 isn't perceptible. Both are medium-bodied, the 2002 has a clean, smooth, berry flavour with balanced acid and noticeable tannins - the 2004, almost the same but slightly brighter - hard to detect a difference unless they're side by side in which case my preference is the 2002 especially as a dry sipper. The finish has more fruit on top of the tannic edge. Pair either with roasted or grilled red meats, spicy pastas, pepperoni pizza, bbq'd ribs, or stews. Both are drinking well now - I'd still cellar the 2004 for two years yet.

NEPENTHE CHARLESTON PINOT NOIR 2003, Adelaide, Australia, 14.0% XD, #682054 $17.95 (Tasted May 1, 2006)

Vintages release on April 29, 2006 and described as ".... is one of the finest Australian Pinots I have tasted. It exhibits a medium ruby color in addition to soft, sweet notes of cola, black cherries, dried herbs, and loamy soil. Soft, round, medium-bodied, and charming, it should be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Score - 88 (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2005)." The label says "The cool and beautiful Adelaide Hills produce pinot noir that is fragrant, intense and generous with abundant fresh fruit characters. .... made with minimalist winemaking techniques... best consumed in its youth, etc." The website says, "The Nepenthe 'Charleston' Pinot noir is a vineyard and barrel selection, blended with an emphasis on approachability and vibrance of fruit, especially in the wine's youth. ... picking each vineyard block when at its best, then keeping each batch of wine separate until maturation is complete, allowing us to ruthlessly cull those barrels which do not meet the required standard and style. .... deep red in colour with aromas of cherries, rhubarb and spice, and the gentle yet dry tannins of genuinely ripe grapes.... will mature gracefully and gain complexity for 2-4 years. Cellaring 3-5 Years." The winecurrent newsletter rates this four stars saying "...delicate balance of mellow fruit (plum and rich cherry) flavours, deft handling of oak, and an extremely well balanced and lengthy finish. The price point ... is superb. Smoked duck breasts or roasted Cornish game hens would pair well. (VH)." My notes: This, as well as 'The Rogue' (Archives, Dec 2005), belongs to the middle of three Nepenthe 'Ranges': 'Pinnacle', 'Altitude' and 'Tryst'. After airing briefly the nose is full of fresh strawberries and black cherries. Colour is a strawberry tinged see-through ruby. Has a round mouthfeel with flavours of smooth strawberry, cherry and at 16 and 18° C it shows a brightness with a light tannin. The finish is long, bright with a touch of cinnamon. A great sipper and can be paired with roasted game birds, Swiss Chalet, spareribs or rack of lamb, pork/lamb/chicken souvlaki, etc. A sip-now altho' cellaring for two to five years seems possible. A bargain Pinot...

May Whites (10): Spain Brut, NZ SB(2), Australia Ries, Germany Ries(2), NZ Ries, Australia Sauv Blanc, Australia Pinot Grigio, Chile Sauv Blanc

NINTH ISLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, Tasmania, Australia, 13.7% XD, #606897 $19.95 (Tasted May 27, 2006)

A Vintages release on May 27, 2006 noting that "Ninth Island is the second label of Pipers Brook (Kregliner Wine Estates). Tasmania's cool climate is ideal for crafting fresh and racy Sauvignon Blanc like this one. Expect complex aromas of tropical fruit, gooseberry, and sweet herbs in this medium-bodied delight. Enjoy with spring vegetables and seafood stir-fry or fresh oysters." The website says of the 2005 SB: "The colour is a pale yellow straw with a tinge of green. Bouquet is lifted, floral aromatic with bright fresh fruits such as gooseberry, pineapple, rock melon, and kiwifruit evident. Medium bodied with ripe lush tropical fruits balanced by savoury notes and a fresh crisp acid spine providing a tight, structured palate. The finish is delicate and lingering. Likely life span to 2007 with optimal year 2005/6." Winecurrent.com rates it four stars (of five) saying: "Aromas of passion fruit, mineral and grassy notes mark this a cool climate offering. On the beautifully textured palate there is a full fruit-forward attack of sweet melon, Bosc pear and mint. The finish is clean and well balanced. Pair this to lightly buttered and sautéed asparagus spears wrapped in prosciutto. (VH)." My notes: A light blond colour with a green hue, the nose is soft melon and kiwi - some passionfruit and light gooseberry came out in the flavours along with melon and banana. Texture is full and creamy with a long finish ending in a light oiliness on the palate. A superb drink-now - don't see it improving with cellaring and why would anyone delay sip, sip, sipping. A slightly different SB and equal with the best.

FREIXENET CARTA NEVADA BRUT, Penedes, Spain, 11.5% D, #074757 $11.25 (Tasted May 19, 2006)

A General listing described as "Pale straw colour; aroma of yellow apples with mineral and citrus notes; on the palate, citrusy/lime fruit with a crisp, clean finish. Serve with finger foods; light cheeses; aperitif; tapas. My notes: A pleasing light golden blond with medium to small bubbles and a clean effervescent 'chard-like' nose. The bubbles keep coming through flavours of melon, grapefruit and apple... tart but with a background of sweet fruit. The finish is long, some creaminess, some grassiness with a lasting green apple and melon. An impressive festive package with frosted glass, gold foil and clean graphics. The website offers 'dress-ups' for bottles for wedding receptions. Have with anything salted: crackers and hummous, mild cheeses, any shaved italian meat, sushi, fresh oysters, or just sip your way thru' dry speeches.

KIM CRAWFORD MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand, 13.5% D, #975672 $19.95 (Tasted May 17, 2006)

Vintages released in December, 2005 saying "Light straw in colour, it shows quite intense aromas of passion fruit, lime leaf, guava, asparagus and grapefruit. Medium bodied, dry and crisp with the forceful fruit that fills in beautifully in the centre. Clean, long finish. A classic New Zealand-style Sauvignon that novices and connoisseurs will both love. Score - 91 (Harvey Steiman, www.winespectator.com, Oct. 15, 2004)." The Kim Crawford website describes this bottle, one of four SBs produced by KC, as 'Pale straw with touches of green, aromas that are 'classic Sauvignon characters of gooseberry, passionfruit, figs and a touch of herbaceousness, a palate that unfolds with flavours of passionfruit, gooseberry and subtle herbaceousness.... mouthfilling with good texture and finishes well with crisp acidity and great length. A wine to drink now and, with careful cellaring, will last up to five years.' My notes: The 2004 was tasted in February this year with the comment "KC has been consistent so [the 2005] should be equivalent or better" and it is. The KC website accurately describes this vintage so no need to elaborate except that five years cellaring seems long based on previous vintages which lost much of its fruit after the second year. But if the benefit is an integrated structure and smoother body it could be worthwhile. A super value for a well balanced, fruit forward sauvignon blanc.

D'ARENBERG 'THE DRY DAM' RIESLING 2005, McLaren Valley, Australia, 13.0% XD, #942953 $15.95 (Tasted May 16, 2006)

Part of Vintages release on May 13, 2006 - online description not available. The label claims that in good vintages the water source for d'Arenberg's riesling vines, Neil's Dam, goes dry causing concentrated riesling fruit with lots of flavour and acids. The website adds "As a young wine, the Dry Dam shows lime, citrus blossom and almost perfumed rose petal smells, and as an older wine, develops with tremendous structure and classic honey-toast bottle aged fruit flavours and lemon-lime acidity. Serve at 8C now or cellar for 2 – 15 years. Serve when young as an aperitif, or to accompany all sorts of seafood, including prawns and squid, as well as salads and Asian food. The older Riesling can be drunk with a wider range of foods including freshwater crayfish, chicken and lighter meat dishes." Winecurrent gives it four and one-half stars (of five) saying "From a winery noted for their outstanding reds, this is equally well made. Lemon and apricot aromatics waft from the glass and then the fun starts. Rich, complex and almost creamy on the palate, it bursts forth with layers of ripe fruit and tangy citrus flavours before the lengthy and luxurious finish kicks in. This deserves a place at your table alongside a scallop and shrimp ceviche. (VH)" My notes: A light blond colour with a citrus, apricot and nutty (pistacchio?) nose. Its tartness refreshes while light green apple and mineral flavours add interest for sipping or when paired with light seafood dishes. Has a long, dry, tart finish. Was OK with dilled and grilled rainbow trout. Right now it's young and light -perhaps cellaring a few years will bring about some body and complexity.

GEIL RIESLING SPATLESE 2004, Rheinhessen, Germany, 10.5% SC6, #994780 $15.95 (Tasted May 14, 2006)

Part of Vintages release on May 13, 2006 - online description not available. Beppi describes it as ".... on the medium-sweet side... brimming with canned peach and mandarin flavours, finishing with brisk acidity." Winecurrent rates it four and one-half stars (of five) saying "A really delicious, sweet, rich Riesling that would make a fine partner to seared foie gras. The dominant fruit is stewed pear, and it's accented with notes of peach, apricot and tropical fruit. It's smooth and luxurious with beautiful weight and balance and shows just how fabulous German sweet wines can be. (RP)" My notes: Everything RP says... a wonderful sipper as the sweetness is nicely balanced with fruit and acid similar to a good late harvest white. A fragrant soft apricot nose with mellow fullness and flavours of sweet pear, honeyed apricots and a long finish of succulent nectarines. Should be able to cellar for a few years but is drinking very well now, from chilled to not, either as an aperitif or an accompaniment to creme brule. Good value if looking for a sweetish sipper.

KENDERMANNS KALKSTEIN DRY RIESLING 2004, Pfalz, Germany, 13.0% XD, #678060 $15.95 (Tasted May 13, 2006)

Part of Vintages release on May 13, 2006 - English online description not available. Beppi describes this as "favourite of the three wines.. from Kendermanns [in Release]... medium-bodied and honey-like, lifted by fresh melon and zesty lime notes." Winecurrent gives it four stars (of five) saying "Off-dry with a good dose of sweet citrus acidity that complements the primary flavours of peach, apricot and tart and sweet apples. This is medium bodied and well balanced, and the crisp texture and bright flavours should lead you toward spicy (but not too hot) Asian cuisine. (RP)". My notes: One of Kendermann's (of Black Tower genre) 'Terroir Series' rieslings, light straw with a light wildflower nose, medium-bodied. Flavours are a medley of peach, pear, honey, lemongrass and balanced acid. The finish is moderate, bright with some roundness, and possibly a petrol hint. Was good with roasted chicken and chips... likely better with seafood pastas, light hors d'oeuvres and light meats: pork, ham. A drink-now but could cellar up to two years -more petrol may show

SEIFRIED NELSON RIESLING 2005, Nelson, New Zealand, 13.0% D, #989541 $16.95 (Tasted May 13, 2006)

Part of Vintages release on May 13, 2006 - an online description was not available. Winecurrent gives it four and one-half stars (of five) saying "...From the very inviting nose of green apple and passion fruit to the zesty citrussy finish, this is gorgeous. The flavours (quince, passion fruit and lemon zest) are racy, but the mouth feel is almost fleshy. It cleans up nicely and would stand proud beside your family's Sunday pork roast. (VH)" The Seifried website says: "... a blend of fruit from our Redwood Valley, and younger Brightwater vineyard. .... The fermentation of the Redwood Valley portion was stopped prematurely leaving a little sweetness... This was then blended with the Brightwater portion (...fermented to dryness), giving the wine a medium residual sugar. Deliciously perfumed and aromatic with deep apricot and citrus flavours. It is gently honeyed, has a touch of sweetness and a lively, long finish." My notes: Let some of the chill go for a nose of green apple and passion fruit, light but there. A light blond colour with a green tinge, medium-bodied. Flavours of passionfruit, lime and kiwi with some succulence that wash the palate leaving the remnants of light passionfruit and melon in a long finish. A great sipper - could be taken for a sauvignon blanc from neighbouring marlborough - great with chilled crab meat, a shrimp ring, asparagus spears, melon pieces or scallops. Should be cellarable several years. A different riesling for the cellar and good value imho.

DEAKIN ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, Victoria, Australia, 12.0% XD, #560839 $9.10* (Tasted May 12, 2006)

A General listing, *a dollar off until May 21st and described as "Pale straw yellow; grassy, citrus, grapefruit and gooseberry nose; dry, light bodieid, zesty on the palate with grapefruit nuances; clean finish. Serve with oysters; chevre; herbed chicken; salads." The label has a generic marketing statement and Gord Stimmell rates it 88 saying "A sauvignon blanc with tropical licks thanks to sunny, hot-climate fruit. Aromas of ripe pear, spice, lemon oil and lime seem quite pinot grigio-like, and the flavours of pears and crushed pineapple are very appealing. The finish is almost lush, with lime and kiwi fruit notes." The Wingara website says: "Nose is fresh, pungent and green with feijoa, firm pear and a splash of lime. The palate is delicious, savoury and fruity with lemongrass, coriander, lime and feijoa. Light bodied and zingy." My notes: A light blond with fresh aromas of lime and light gooseberry. Light-bodied with an initial swallow of tropical fruits and citrus followed by a long finish building in grassiness and drying the palate. By itself not a sipper unless acclimated to very dry whites. Better with crab cakes, fish dishes, Thai, szechuan or Bento boxes. A drink now - cellaring a year or two is suggested by the vintner but ?

NINTH ISLAND PINOT GRIGIO 2005, Tasmania, Australia, 13.5% D, #683193 $19.95 (Tasted May 9, 2006)

A Vintages release on April 29, 2006 and described as "... the easy drinking second label for Pipers Brook and is named after a small private island that lies in the Bass Strait across from the Pipers River wine region. Pinot Grigio thrives in the cool climate of northern Tasmania and this fresh and fruity wine is an excellent match for steamed mussels or lemon risotto. Look for aromas of pear, exotic fruits and musk in this richly textured, food-friendly wine." The label says ".... a gently lifted bouquet of fresh pear, musk and apples and a full-bodied palate that is balanced by a refreshing acid spine. .... perfect for... fresh crayfish, oysters or scallops." The website describes the vintage season: "was characterised by almost perfect conditions for flowering and fruit set followed by a mild summer ripening season. As a result our Pinot Grigio achieved full flavour ripeness, soft delicate aromatics balanced by a well-integrated acid spine." Beppi recommended this saying " .... More corpulent than the lighter-styled PG's of northern Italy, .... medium-bodied and luscious, brimming with spicy pear and apple nuances... tight seam of acidity, etc." My notes: One of four brands from Kreglinger Wine Estates of Tasmania. Has a convenient screwtop. A light blond with almost a peach hue and a just-perceptible nose of wildflowers and lemon honey. Full-bodied with a nippy creaminess and flavours of lemon, pineapple, apple and pear. The finish is long, some cream, light spice and a citrus zest. A sipper but better with hors d'oeuvres: fresh oysters, crab on crackers, spicy mussels, scallop kebobs, lobster tails, a variety of seafood pastas. Should cellar well - up to two years and see where it goes. Even at $20 a good value imho.

VINA TARAPACA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2005, Maipo Valley, Chile, 13.0% D, #414185 $8.45 (Tasted May 1, 2006)

A General listing described as "Light straw colour; dry, light- to medium-bodied with softer acidity; aromas and flavours of herbs and green apples with a soft finish", and "Serve with Seafood; shellfish; chicken." My notes: Tarapaca's 'Export Market' range includes six varietals including this Sauvignon Blanc and a Cab/Merlot blend. A pale straw colour, aromatic gooseberry nose and an initial tropical fruitiness, smooth with a dry edge. Medium- to light-bodied and a pleasant gooseberry finish with a grapefruit aftertaste and sharp succulence. Went well with bbq chicken, vegetables including baked potato. An economical drink-now. Cellar up to a year and see where it goes. A value white for an open house, a surprise party, or a summer patio luncheon.

Friday, April 28, 2006

More April Whites (2): Canada Riesling, Canada Chard

DANIEL LENKO RESERVE RIESLING 2004, Beamsville, Canada, 11.5% XD, Winery $15.95 (Tasted April 27, 2006)

The website says, "Packed with lime, lemon, grapefruit and orange rind aromas, this wine also displays hints of spice, honey and flowers. The typical bracing acidity of Riesling is present, allowing for a good structure and clean, long finish." My notes: An off-dryness balances the crisp acidity nicely. Almost white with a blond tint and a just perceptible lemon/grapefruit and orange zest nose. The flavours include lemon, wild apple, and some minerals. The finish is long with a citrus peel or slight tangerine that puts a light oil on the lips. Doesn't quite clean your teeth as a sipper but is refreshing. Pair with dungeness crab salad, grilled scallop skewers, white fish dishes or a cold shrimp ring. Should be able to cellar this for a few years.

DANIEL LENKO UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2004, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% XD, Winery $19.95 (Tasted April 27, 2006)

The website says, "Gobs of pineapple, lime, lemon and peach aromas. The fresh, inviting nose leads to a massive, round texture with a mineral/flint base typical of unoaked chardonnay". My notes: Light blond with a faint lemon-and-ripe-peach nose. Medium-bodied, a soft creaminess and slight flavours of lemon and ripe peach against a balanced acid framework. The finish starts strong but fades quickly into a faint grassiness. Better matched with vegetable purees, hot or cold, perhaps gazpacho, raw oysters, lightly grilled white fishes. Cellaring should give more structure - if the first year confirms, go year by year.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

More April Reds (8): Canada Merlot, Spain Blend, Australia Blend, Italy Sangiov(2), Argentina Cab Sauv, France Blend, Australia Cab Sauv

DANIEL LENKO OLD VINES MERLOT 2003, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% XD, Winery $24.95 (Tasted April 27, 2006)

The website says "Year after year the most consistent red wine we make. Aromas of blackberry and plum layer over cedar, tobacco and mint. Aged 14 months in French and American oak, a firm structure and solid concentration frame the round, creamy mid-palate. Vanilla, coconut and butterscotch lead to a long, supple finish." My notes: A mid ruby colour with a nose that is more earthy than fruity - airing in the glass a few minutes is recommended. A european style merlot, medium- to light-bodied with well balanced tannins and acid with a light red cherry flavour and light creaminess. Finish is moderate, dry, with some ripe, red cherries - didnt get the vanilla or butterscotch. Four to five years cellaring according to DL.

CAPELLANES JOVEN ROBLE RIBERA DEL DUERO 2004, Ribadeo, Spain, 13.5% D, #678177 $20.95 (Tasted April 27, 2006)

Released by Vintages February 18, 2006 saying: "Pago de Los Capellanes has embraced one of the newer Spanish ageing designations, ‘Joven Roble', for the creation of this wine. These fruit-forward wines are designed to be enjoyed within the first two to four years of vintage. Notes of toast and vanilla, but it's the bold berry and blackcurrant fruit that sings through. Add in a touch of spice, and you have a terrific, immediately enjoyable yet serious wine. Score - 91. (Simon Woods, Wine International, Sept. 2005)" The label says "[a blend of] 80% tempranillo, 10% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot". My notes: A deep purple hued ruby with a warm black cherry and soft licorice nose. Air to taste or decant. Full-bodied, tannins and acids are well balanced, and flavours are both mellow and bright with raspberry, blackberry, cherry and notes of tobacco and anise. The finish is long with initial fruit dwindling to a dry, light tobacco edge. A meal wine although devoted cab sippers may find this a dramatic but comfortable alternative. Have with full flavoured grilled meats, lamb shank and beefy stews. Cellaring up to five years then possibly extending after a taste.

LUCKY COUNTRY SHIRAZ CAB SAUV (TWO HANDS) 2004, South Australia, 15.0% XD, #642702 $15.95

A Vintages release April 15, 2006 described as "The country may be lucky but the winemaking here is pure talent. It's deep ruby in colour with aromas of smoke, blackberry, blueberry, sweet herbs and a hint of new leather. Dry, medium full-bodied with ripe fruit on the attack followed by a long lively peppery finish. The tannins balance the ripe fruit nicely. Enjoy with roast leg of lamb or stuffed pork roast. (VINTAGES panel, March 2006)." The label says "Wine Style: Full bodied, rich, big, succulent and long." My notes: A nose of overripe black cherries and berries with a smoky, ruby red colour. Both the cabernet and shiraz are equal flavours giving this a strong peppery, plum taste with drying tannins and sharp acids. Decant to avoid heavy sediment and would also help slightly with a bandaid edge that offsets the fruit. The finish is long, tannic and dry with the bandaid persisting - not a sipper except for the brave. Have with full-flavoured meats or cellar for a few years. With the tannins and acid it may turn out well.

RICASOLI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2003 (and 2002), Tuscany, Italy, 13.5% D, #003962 $23.90 (Tasted April 23, 2006)

A General listing. The 2002 vintage was last tasted in September (see Archives) and revisited to compare with the 2003. The 2003 label says "wonderfully expressive bouquet of violets and spice, the palate is elegant and refined with a long velvety finish." The Ricasoli website says: "Bright ruby red in color with rich flavours of mature fruit. The taste is full solidly structured thanks to a good acidity and well balanced tannins. The long lasting sensation is absolutely voluptuous." My notes: Both are a dark see-through ruby colour with a soft ripe cherry and violet nose the 2002 having a sweet fruit note. Both are medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins on top of a warm plum, dark cherry flavour with a leather edge and a well balanced acid for a long, almost mellow, dry finish. The 2003 is slightly brighter with an earthiness not in 2002 and needs a few minutes to breathe. Have either with strong flavoured cheeses, grilled steaks, spareribs with savoury onion sauce, or stews. The 2002 is drinking well now... put the 2003 down for a few years for peak or just skip this vintage.

FAMIGLIA BIANCHI CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #677567 $15.95 (Retasted April 21, 2006)

My notes: Tasted and cellared in September last year (see Archives) when James Molesworth gave it a rating of 91/100 and Natalie MacLean rated it 90/100 calling it "an extraordinary wine for the price". Vintages released it September 3, 2005 but doesn't list it as of today. The wine is a rich ruby and after airing twenty minutes has a soft, rich blackberry and licorice nose. The flavours are complex with ripe plum and pepper against a cushion of chocolate and truffels. The finish has velvety smooth tannins with some berry but mostly an earthy chocolate - any chalkiness has gone. Almost a sipper for me - it's considerably easier then in September - 'Big Cab' drinkers should find it interesting. But give me a grilled T-bone or saucy backribs for a real taste treat. Needs another two to four years before it'll be ready for mixed company. Still waiting for the 2003 vintage from Vintages.

CHATEAU LA CLOTTE-FONTANE MATHIEROU 2001, Languedoc, France, 13.5% XD, CP149-2543 $19.17 (Retasted April 20, 2006)

Opimian says: "...has masses of forward fruit that combines the juicy appeal of New World reds with those of revered old vineyards. Richly flavoured and opulent, showing powerfully deep aromas with black fruit overlaid with spicy pepper and black olive, the silky and subdued tannins are never far away, their subtlety adding to the lengthy structure of a thunderingly good bottle." Cellar six months to several years. My notes: Last tasted October, 2005 with the comments "..... with smooth aromas of plums, bacon and black olive and flavours of black cherries balanced with soft tannins and a light clean acid. The finish is long and subtle black fruits.etc. " Still a rich ruby with warm aromas of black berries with a peppery edge. A smooth tannic blackberry flavour with a dry, spicy finish - even the black olives. Better paired with prime rib, tomato canelloni stuffed with seasoned chicken breast, rack of lamb.... has enough spice for fuller flavoured grilled meats. Should be able to cellar for a few more years yet.

KILIKANOON 'KILLERMAN'S RUN' CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002, South Australia, 14.5% XD, #675223 $18.95 (Tasted April 20, 2006)

A Vintages release April 15, 2006 and described as "Medium ruby. Wine-class cabernet aromas of ripe cherry, redcurrant, pepper, licorice and rose petal, with a subtle minty nuance. Fleshy, supple and concentrated, with sweet flavors of red and black berries, cherry candy and sweet tobacco. A mouthfilling, velvety wine that finishes on a tangy redcurrant note. Score - 88. (Josh Reynolds, International Wine Cellar, Sept./Oct. 2005)." The label says "... what you get when combining low yielding grapes with premium vineyard areas with traditional winemaking .... Intense berry fruit flavours, subtle French oak and firm tannins etc. " My notes: A pleasing pepper, cherry and blackberry aroma from a dense ruby red. Full-bodied, smooth, ripe blackberry and licorice flavours with well balanced tannin and acid. The finish is consistent... long, smooth with soft tannins and a touch of licorice - making a great dry, lip-smacking sipper. Super with any grilled red meat, lamb kebobs, roasted lamb shank, full-flavoured stews or chili con carne, etc. Drinking well now but could cellar for several years.