September 2014 Wines - 20 Tasted of 20

Pat's View - August 30 '14

A Rant:

Is it my imagination or have prices at our favourite wine outlet crept 'up, up and away' as the comic hero would shout starting a climb to the stratosphere. Compared to a few years ago what I believe was in the $10 - $20 range is now the innumerable commercial recipes that cater to a targeted consumer profile. Drinkable? Yes. Having a large percentage of their content a grape derivative? Yes. Also in this group are wines the product of  many 'traditional winemakers'. By that I mean winemakers that have stood an ethical ground. Raised with a firm understanding of how to capture the character of soil and vine they are loyal to generations of their craft. The 'commercialists' have their focus on profit... turning grapes into higher margins.

It would be wrong to think a winemaker doesn't or shouldn't  look for a substantial return for his skill and investment.  The basic difference between the traditionalist and the commercialist is in  avoiding mutilation of the end product, from wine to a soft drink. Both participate in an industry that is relatively unregulated - modern winemaking has a component that is a byproduct of market research, innovative technologies and biological experimentation. Add an edge of sweetness to counter unnatural acids. Add a rose scent to tame off-flavoured fruit - and much more.

A consumer can't know what foreign substances are part of an effort to save an unpredictable vintage, a mysterious terroir or even market driven concoctions. Vines planted on a back 40 that has been fallow for several years after a few unsuccessful attempts to mask over a fermenting garbage dump hidden below. Or the vacant lot next to an industrial property or commercial agricultural crop - where 'blow over' contains chemical pesticide and fertilizer dust with a 'not my problem' attitude. It's an ecological miracle how a vine can filter slime into non toxic juices. The sweet smell of commerce passes for the smoky hangover of 'forest floor' or 'nuance of truffles'.

Packaged to sell includes a hefty markup, a hefty one-and-a-half pound bottle, a gold imprinted or embossed label and a layer of promotional exaggeration added by our local monopolistic retailer. What is a poor wine consumer to do? Thank Bacchus for the majority of wine critics not tainted by cronyism . You just have to search for them!

My opinion, Ww

 
THE LINEUP: (Reds, Whites, Sparkling)

• McManis Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, 91-2  --  V, Ripon, California, #212126  $19.95
• Ravenswood Vintners Blend Old Vine Zinfandel 2012, 88-1  --  V, Acampo, California,  #359257  15.95*
• Trapiche Reserve Malbec 2013, 87-1  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #614651 $11.95 
• Liberty School Syrah 2011, 86  --  V, Central Coast, California,  #942383  $18.95
• Trapiche Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, 85  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #614669  $11.95 
• Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, 84  --  V, Paso Robles, California, #738823  $19.95
• Trapiche Reserve Syrah 2012,  83  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #222281 $11.95
• Farnese Fantini Sangiovese Daunia 2013, 82  --  G, Abruzzo, Italy, #512327   $7.95
• Esquinas de Argento Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, 82  --  G,  Mendoza, Argentina, #358812 $11.90  
• Blackstone Winemaker's Select Pinot Noir 2012, 81  -- G, Acampo, California,  #358937  $16.95
• Citra Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2013, 80  --  G, Abruzzo, Italy, #446633  $7.75  

• Mike Weir Sauvignon Blanc 2013 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 90-2  --  G, Beamsville, Ontario, #686972  $13.95* 
• Kuhlmann Platz Pinot Gris 2012, 90-2  --  V,  Alsace, France, #224204  $17.95 
• La Cappuccina Soave 2013, 87-1  --  V, Verona, Italy, #081489  $15.95
• Sandbanks Riesling 2012 VQA Ontario, 85  --  G, Wellington, Ontario, #139022  $13.95*    
• Sibling Rivalry White 2013 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82  --  G, St. Catharines, Ontario, #126144  $13.95 
• Willm Réserve Riesling 2013, 82  --  V, Alsace, France, #011452  $ 14.95*
• Juno Sauvignon Blanc 2013, 80  --  G, Paarl, South Africa, #370312  $11.85
• Esquinas de Argento Cool Climate Pinot Grigio 2013, 79  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #365494  $11.85  

• Treveri Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine NV, 76  --  V, Columbia Valley, Washington State, #383844  $19.95 

(V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated)

TASTINGS:
 
WILLM RÉSERVE RIESLING 2013, Alsace, France, 12.0%  XD  7g/L,  #011452  $14.95*  (Tasted September 15, 2014)

Released by Vintages on April 18, 2014.  Reduced a dollar until August 17, 2014.  My notes: Not much of an aroma when first poured at 12oC and doesn't develop over the tasting. The colour is a crystal light lemon and a thin film recedes quickly leaving a bare surface. The first sip has a tame tang and subdued lemon pear flavour ending 'bone' dry. I can see why this vintage was reduced as it lacked an expected roundness and a honey depth of the 2012 vintage and is more like the 2009. Character improved as the temperature increased to 14oC with a balance of texture and tang with the flavour remaining subtle. Have with coconut shrimp or bacon wrapped scallops or a mixed charcuterie. A drink now. 82

RAVENSWOOD VINTNERS BLEND OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2012, Acampo, California,  13.5%  D  7g/L,  #359257  15.95*  (Tasted September 5, 2014)

Released by Vintages on April 18, 2014.  Priced $2 lower until August 17, 2014.  My notes: The 2004 vintage was tasted on February 18, 2007 and the 2003 on July 31, 2005 - both before ratings. Unique for the LCBO in this case is the reduction in price from previous vintages - from $19.95 for the 2003 and $20.10 for the 2004. This label doesn't appear on the Ravenswood website - perhaps a wine for export. The colour is a ruby toned ebony and swirling a thin film that quickly separates into a lacy veil. The nose is evident on pouring then settles to a subtle, spicy, woody blackberry. The first sip is quite appealing with a touch of sweet suggesting freshness, a touch of blackcurrant and fine tannins to layer the mouth followed by a long warm finish. This could be a crowd pleaser as a prenuptial sipper and/or a standby rubbed red meat companion. A commercial drink now.  88

LA CAPPUCCINA SOAVE 2013, Verona, Italy, 12.0%  D  8g/L,  #081489  $15.95 (Tasted September 4, 2014)

Released by Vintages on June 7, 2014 and made from 100% Garganega grape. My notes: The 2012 vintage was tasted in May 2013, a dollar less and rated 82, drinkable but not outstanding. Served at 12oC there's a floral aspect to the nose and added to a lemon zest along with a soft scent that could be interpreted as nutty. The film is thin leaving a lacy pattern then rapidly draining to a scant veil. A light cream, medium-bodied, a tang and drying mineral finish provides interest as a sipper (14oC preferred). Slightly sweet and retaining mild fruit, pear and apple, would be a charmer with crab cakes, seafood ravioli, shrimp in sauce with crepes or lobster pieces in a tomato sauce. Went well with breaded sole and potato casserole. A drink now. 87

TREVERI EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS SPARKLING WINE NV, Washington State, USA, 12.0%  D  4g/L, #383844  $19.95  (Tasted September 17, 2014)

Released by Vintages on August 2, 2014 and rated 90 by Harvey Steiman  (May 31, 2012).  My notes: $14US at the winery and online. Perhaps drinkable for imbibers with taste buds similar to Harvey Steiman but not mine. There's a flow of mixed bubbles on pouring that subside quickly into a few occasional strings. The nose has a light model glue scent on top of a mild grapefruit - best to air for several minutes. The colour is blond and body is light. A burst of spritz livens the palate then an off citrus carries a grassy dope taint unpleasant for sipping. Not to be served unless at a tasting of bubblies for comparison - this being one extreme - not recommended. I'm surprised this passed the LCBO Tasting Panel. 76

LIBERTY SCHOOL CABERNET SAUVIGNON  2012, Paso Robles, California, 13.5%  D  8g/L, 738823  $19.95  (Tasted September 16, 2014)

Release by Vintages on April 18, 2014.   My notes:  The 2006, 2007 and 2010 vintages were tasted with high points -- now for the 2012:  The colour is a deep garnet and the nose is subtle cherry plus a blackberry/blueberry scent, a steely edge suggests the spice to come. The film covers the glass quickly forming a lacy edge that recedes promptly. The first sip has a sharp acid layering the fruit then changing to an extra dry tannin mouthfeel. The finish comes quickly with a woody reminder of the fruit - light to sip. Pair with anything beefy from steaks to beef stews. Not for cellaring and thin compared to previous vintages. 84

LIBERTY SCHOOL SYRAH 2011, Central Coast, California,  13.5%  XD  11g/L,  #942383  $18.95  (Tasted September 18, 2014)

Released by Vintages on June 21, 2014 and rated  88 by Sara d'Amato (November 1, 2013).  My notes: The Syrah is not listed on the winery website - perhaps it's an entry level for export? A charcoal stained ruby leaving a firm film and rounded rim running slow legs. A touch of spice with a sniff of red cherries softened by an earthy edge. Softer than a Shiraz but more dominant than a Sirah this makes for a brighter sociable sipper - better with a hard cheese selection. A mellow first sip cushions then lets go with a dry as chalk finish. A touch metallic before the second sip - a complement with souvlakis, lamb, beef or pork. A commercial drink now not for cellaring. 86

MCMANIS  CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, Ripon, California, 13.5%  XD  9g/L,  #212126  $19.95  (Tasted September 1, 2014)

 Released by Vintages on April 18, 2014.  My notes: The 2011 vintage is still on Vintages' shelf while the winery claims the 2012 is available and is 'the best selling' by the winery. There's a definite sweetness framing spicy black currant, berry and oak aromas and some rose colouring in its deep ruby. The film forms quickly topped by a rounded rim followed quickly by a few flowing tears. The first sip is silky and penetrates coating the palate evenly for a long warm, dry finish. Rewarding as a sipper for its pleasing blending of flavours, textures and depth. There's sufficient fruit to combine and complement most savoury meat dishes - sip rather than quaff for optimum contribution. Cellaring several years could soften spice and acid from its current youthfulness. Drinking well now. 91 

BLACKSTONE WINEMAKER'S SELECT PINOT NOIR 2012, Acampo, California, 13.5%  D  5.8g/L,  #358937  $16.95  (Tasted September 2, 2014)

A General listing produced for Constellation Brands.  My notes:   A winemaker's selection of 89% Pinot noir, 6% Syrah and 5% Petite Sirah.  The colour is a garnet hued deep ruby. The film separates quickly leaving a fragmented rim and a scattered lace pattern. A soft floral with sidelights of berry cherry combine for the main nose and more sips reveal a lightish body with a thin silky texture and not so subtle candied peel edge then finishing as brief bright remnants. Sipping isn't for me - quaffing helps. Perhaps pair with veal cutlet, chicken parmigiana or hard cheeses and saltines. 81

KUHLMANN PLATZ PINOT GRIS 2012, Alsace, France, 13.0%  D  15g/L,  #224204  $17.95  (Tasted October 3, 2014)

Released by Vintages on August 2, 2014. Winner of a Gold Medal in Paris Concours Général Agricole 2013.  My notes: A favourite style when an Opimian member were whites from the town of Hunawihr. This Pinot Gris has the same character as well as a uniqueness of its own. A faint onion skin in the golden blond is a varietal distinction and a thin film quickly forming lacework on the glass suggests a delicate texture. The first sip is smooth with mild acid well balanced with sweet pear and a slight spice that went well with Japanese sushi from Moon Sushi on Erin Mills. Served chilled the nose wasn't apparent but as it warmed both the sweetness and a spicy nose added to sipping enjoyment. Paired very well with chicken stir fry with a tingle of spice plus egg rolls, bland sushimi and rice, ie. a broad flavour range. Cellaring for several years will bring out more depth - has a youthful brightness now. 90

SIBLING RIVALRY WHITE 2013 VQA Niagara Peninsula, St. Catharines, Ontario, 12.5%  D  15g/L,  #126144  $13.95  (Tasted September 18, 2014)

Made by Henry of Pelham. My notes: A blend of riesling, chardonnay and gewurztraminer using a rock, scissors, paper process. As delicate as the colour, the flavour is a unique white peach and subtle pear combination matching the nose and finishing as remnants of sweet fruit, a touch of spice wrapped up in a mineral dryness. Swirling leaves a moderate film forming a slight rim that slowly recedes. Did not go well with seared scallops/shrimp with spaghetti a la vodka - perhaps would pair with fried freshwater fish or a fruit salad. A pop wine. 82 


JUNO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, Paarl, South Africa, 13.0% XD  3g/L,  #370312  $11.85  (Tasted September 20, 2014)

Made by the Juno Wine Company (Pty) Ltd.  My notes:A crystal clear blond with prominent aromas of sour apple and green gooseberry. A swirl leaves a light film forming a jagged rim that quickly laces. An gooseberry smoothness has an intense sour touch and a burnt match taint - a uniqueness that could win or detract sippers. My choice would be to pair with seafood with a lemon based sauce - or avoid. 80

TRAPICHE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0%  D  9g/L, #614669  $11.95  (Tasted September 26, 2014)

A General listing.  My notes: A charcoal tinted ruby with a purple cast and aromas of raspberries, blackberries, slight tobacco and a sniff of a humid forest. The film is thin shedding long fast legs. Dry, biting, red currant and premature berries show on first sip leaving the palate initially soft then chalky then  bright through a long steely finish - no warmth. Should be great with savoury and spicy entrees: pizzas, steaks or steak and kidney pies - not elegant but a workhorse and a drink now. 85


TRAPICHE RESERVE SYRAH 2012, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0%  D  7g/L, #222281 $11.95  (Tasted September 22, 2014)

A General listing.  My notes:  A touch of purple to a dense ruby and a slight plum and currant nose introduces this red with the expectation 'there must be more'. A smooth film sticking and flowing long tears without fragmenting. Bright on the palate, fairly dull flavours with fine tannins, good balance mostly of cherry and berry going into a long dry finish. Have with meat dishes with a touch of spice/heat to encourage more life. Nothing there to cellar - a drink now.  83

TRAPICHE RESERVE MALBEC 2013, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0%  D  7g/L, #614651   $11.95  (Tasted September 25, 2014)


A General listing.  My notes:  A moderate film with a thin rim that runs slow legs as it recedes. The colour is a deep charcoal tinged ruby and first sniff, an interesting herbal, plum and cherry aroma. The first sip has depth of character starting from a velvet smoothness and bringing forward a rich plum and black cherry flavour. OK as a sipper, more intense as a quaffer but better paired with a beefeaters selection: steaks, ribs, stews all savoury, rubbed or spiced. This may hold its mid fullness with short term cellaring. 87

SANDBANKS RIESLING 2012 VQA Ontario, Wellington, Ontario, 11.0%  M  19g/L, #139022  $13.95*  (Tasted September 21, 2014)

A General listing reduced $1 until October 12, 2014.  My notes: A pale blond with a hint of green and sweet in the first sip. A soft whiff of mown grass and the freshness of the chill (12oC) gives some pleasure to sipping. The thin film quickly gives in to gravity as it slides down fragmenting along the way. A quaff tastes of pear, crab apple and hint of petrol for a varietal identity. Light-bodied and well balanced ending on a dry note. A complement with freshwater fish, BC honey mussels in a ginger broth or straight shrimp on the Bar-bie. A drink now with no expectation to develop further. For those preferring a sweet touch to their Riesling. 85

MIKE WEIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5%  D  8g/L,  #686972
$13.95*  (Tasted September 24, 2014)



A General listing reduced $1 until October 12th. The 2010 vintage was rated 4 1/2 of 5 by Rod Phillips, June 7, 2012.  My notes: A light blond in the glass with substantial tropical fruit, grapefruit and hint of gooseberry aroma - a herbaceous character similar to a NZ Sauvignon Blanc. The film is thin and clear without a rim as it separates into legs then shrinks as small patches. There's a distinctive taint to the nose and flavour - Niagara terroir, clone or ? The texture is smooth, nicely dry on the tongue with some depth. The finish loses a suspicion of sweetness becoming uniformly dry across the palate. Was OK with breaded pork cutlet and is sufficiently flexible to have with most fowl or seafood dishes. Keep a dozen on the shelf while 'bargain priced'.  90  

CITRA MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2013, Abruzzo, Italy, 13.0%  D  12g/L, #446633  $7.75  (Tasted September 20, 2014)

A General listing. My notes:  A charcoal hued cherry red on pouring with a barnyard taint to black cherry aroma, just enough to notice. Aerating softened the nose as well as some of the off-putting aroma. A swirl leaves a smooth film with a lacy pattern that slowly recedes. The first sip shows a smoky, thin black cherry still off flavoured in the background and followed by a dull finish. A quaffer with a meat lovers pizza slathered with passato sauce and anchovies, also veal parmigiano or smoked back ribs. A drink now. I recommend skipping this vintage in spite of the price. 80

FARNESE FANTINI SANGIOVESE DAUNIA 2013,  Abruzzo, Italy, 12.0%  D  16g/L, #512327   $7.95  (Tasted September 20, 2014)

A General listing.  My notes:  A dark garnet and a nose that isn't. Yes, there's a hint of leather, coffee, cherry and cranberry blended as a just-detectable nose becoming more noticeable with a first sip. A swirl lays a thin film with a rapidly fragmenting rim - not much depth however a velvet texture turns the corner for this to become an acceptable soft meal red. Cherry, smoky plum and red currant flavours combine nicely with tannin and a soft texture. Pair with anything spicy, beef or chicken, roasted or grilled. I had mine with a chicken chipotle pita. A drink now.  82


ESQUINAS DE ARGENTO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013,  Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D 7g/L, #358812 $11.90  (Tasted September 30, 2014)

A General listing referred to in a tweet from Carolyn Hammond @carolynhammond .  My notes:  The colour is a charcoal hued ruby and a swirl lays a viscous film to accumulate then hang slow tears leading to long legs. A tangy liquorice dominates a delicate plum scent and a sharpness accompanies an extra dry black cherry quickly warming the palate. Sipping needs some patience while quaffing intensifies the attack on the taste buds masking flavours. A jammy meal red that quickly becomes harsh. Pair with sirloin steaks prepared rare, bbq'd ribs or hamburgers with the works. Perhaps a young red that could benefit from a few years cellaring - but I don't think so.  82
 
ESQUINAS DE ARGENTO COOL CLIMATE PINOT GRIGIO  2013, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.0% XD 4g/L, #365494  $11.85  (Tasted September 30, 2014)

A General listing referred to in a tweet from Carolyn Hammond @carolynhammond .  My notes:  The green tint gives some colour to the delicate blond in the glass. The nose has a lemon lime scent with an added herbal highlight - not inviting as a sipper. The film is thin leaving a lacy rim that falls as a single curtain. A light silk with full tang comes with the first sip then flavours following the nose for a long sharp finish. Match with seafood, grilled chicken or a Chinese or spicy Thai buffet. Not enjoyable as a solo sipper and possibly difficult to match - was OK with pan fried chicken breast with an anchovy butter sauce. 79