Stoney Ridge Luncheon, June 8th

The staff and, I sense, the Winery policy is 'customer contentedness'. Perhaps there is a better phrase but until one comes along, I and my BH feel Stoney Ridge goes out of their way to ensure customer contentedness starting from the beautifully maintained gardens to their well crafted wines. Visit the Winery and see for yourself. Now for the 'Luncheon'.

The temperature was 32C on the back deck of the Stoney Ridge Winery and although the awning gave shade to the long table stretched for twelve guests everyone eventually showed the heat. What made it bearable was the delectable light lunch prepared by Stoney Ridge and the anticipated words from guest speaker Jim Warren.

The talk was a combination of many things. A history of grape varieties of southern Ontario - shared by New York state which continues to use many to this day - starting from early days of viniculture circa 1811, through the depression and post-second world war years when grafting of vinifera with resistant north american root stalk began as well as experimentation by newborn wineries with a succession of grape and wine styles, mostly labrusca-like and mostly sweet and/or acidic.

There were some rants about: the LCBO and about ‘glacial speed’ of government support of the Niagara wine industry, LCBO’s requirement for a financial investment in advertising or promotional material/events that give corporate wineries an advantage, and the disproportionate growth of import over Niagara product sales. Not so apparent was a criticism of or advice for the Niagara wine industry itself. Nothing was said about Cellared in Canada product urged by the industry and now a major impact on Niagara VQA product. The higher price of Niagara wines versus imports was attributed to the purity of product or the cost of ‘cool climate’ viniculture and perhaps a criticism of Ontario consumers for lacking loyalty or discrimination for local produce.

Jim was encouraged to write his recollections of Niagara and perhaps gleanings from his oenological 'digs’.

The dinner broke up shortly before 3pm for a taste of Stoney Ridge Icewine. It may not be apparent but I benefited greatly from the afternoon talk and some of the side discussions although I couldn’t contribute much. The wines served by the Winery and by Jim were co-ordinated well with both the courses and with the dialogue. Sorry not to have itemized the samples.

Many thanks to SR and to Mr. Warren, Ww

Others in June, 2008: 15 Tasted of 15

Some things picked up on the way home...or given as a gift to an appreciative wino. As before, the tasted wines appear in bold. Cheers, Ww 

• Jeanneret Grenache Shiraz 2004, 94-3 – O, Clare Valley, Australia, #B&W Wines $22.46
  
• Ninquén Antu Syrah 2006, 94-3 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #675371 $15.95
• Zenato Valpolicella Superiore Ripassa 2006, 92-2 -- V, Italy, #479766 $24.95
• Wyndham Estate Shiraz Bin 555 2005, 91-2 -- G, South Eastern Australia, #189415 $16.15
• Erath Pinot Noir Oregon 2006, 88 -- V, Oregon, USA, #932541 $24.95
• Waimea Estates Spinyback Pinot Noir 2006, 82 -- V, Nelson, NZ, #060079 $18.95
• Torlesse Canterbury Pinot Noir 2004, 80 -- V, Canterbury, NZ, #699330 $20.95
• Cono Sur Vision Block 78 Pinot Noir 2007, RP87-89, 80 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #689992 $15.95

• Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2005, 94-2 -- V, Marlborough, New Zealand, #359513 $39.95
• Forrest Estate Riesling 2007, RP87-89, 90-2 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #060103 $18.95
• Anakena ONA Sauvignon Blanc 2006, 90-2 -- V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #059501 $16.95
• Cave Spring Estate Gewurztraminer 2006 VQA, 88 -- V, Ontario Canada, #302059 $19.95
• LaPlaya Block No. 23 Selection Reserve Chardonnay 2007, RP90-93, 84 -- V, Limari Valley, Chile, #059352 $13.95
• Chateau des Charmes Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 80 -- V, Ontario, Canada, #453423 $15.95
• Stoney Ridge Chardonnay 2004 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 78 -- G, Ontario, Canada, # 292839 $13.05

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, VC - Vintages Collection, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

JEANNERET GRENACHE/SHIRAZ 2004, Clare Valley, Australia, 15.0% XD, #B&W Wines $22.46 (Retasted June 26, 2008)

My notes: Vintages hasn't stocked Jeanneret since the 2002 Shiraz (#732891 released October, 2004). This blend was purchased from the distributor, B&W Wines, in September 2006 and was last tasted in May 2007. It has a rich blackberry colour and aromas of blackberry with a smoky oak touch, subtly spicy unless aired for a few minutes to become more prominent. It is now showing a tad less blackberry and a layering of soft spices with the fruit with long legs on the glass and a mellow tartness fully blended with smooth, bright blackberry juices and mild vanilla flavouring. A full-bodied sipper that envelops the taste buds freshening for a long while then leaving a dry clay or mineral edge to a lip smacking finish. Savour by itself or have with side bacon on a bun, Montreal smoked meat on a kaiser, turkey wings in a savoury, not spicy, sauce as well as the usual beef entrees. Cellaring well now and should continue for a few more years. 94

NINQUÉN ANTU SYRAH 2006, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 15.0% XD, #675371 $15.95 (Tasted June 24, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “Viña Ninquén is amongst a number of Chilean producers that are now realizing the potential of planting at higher elevations. Ninquén's mountain vineyards have produced a Syrah that is rich with layers of plush blackberry, plum and black cherry fruit flavours and aromas along with notes of mocha, earth and smoke. Enjoy with smoky barbecue ribs or grilled lamb chops.” My notes: A dense ruby colour with a smoky oak and spicy blackberry fragrance. Firm legs and almost a woody texture to chew your way through along with warm blackberry concentrate nicely tart and full-bodied. The flavours even out with distinct fruit edged in tar and earthy woods – quite a mouthful to satisfy anyone looking for a bold but palatable red. Have with full flavoured entrees, e.g. rack of lamb, back ribs or long ribs seasoned well and grilled, a beef pot roast - was great with chili con carne. Ageing for several years could produce a remarkable value. 94

FORREST ESTATE RIESLING 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% D, #060103 $18.95 (Tasted June 23, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 24, 2008 described as “John Forrest believes Riesling will one day be Marlborough's greatest wine, and his own wine is helping the cause. The 2007 vintage is full-bodied, with a splash of sweetness ... amid its generous, lemony, slightly appley flavours, finely blanced for easy, early drinking. (3 ½ of 5, Michael Cooper, Buyer's Guide to New Zealand Wines, 2008).” My notes: A light blond with the faintest of green tint and aromas of meadow flowers, honey and lime. The roundness is well balanced with a tart edge and flavours of kiwi, apple and lime saturate the taste buds. The finish is off dry and long ending on a tart, pithy note. An interesting sipper serving dual purpose, quenching and cleansing. Serve to anyone on any occasion or have with grilled sausage pieces and bacon bits on bagel chips – or with freshly shucked oysters. Pair with baby greens and shredded sardine or salted herring followed by a grilled seafood entrée. Cellaring for several years may introduce a smoother texture but it’s a great drink now. 90

ERATH PINOT NOIR OREGON 2006, Oregon, USA, 13.5% XD, #932541 $24.95 (Tasted June 22, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “… This solid wine, with its cherry, tobacco leaf and earthy aromas and flavours, would be a great house red to keep around all summer long. Dry, medium-bodied and supple, it has the versatility to match everything from planked salmon to roasted chicken to gourmet burgers off the grill. It’s a born entertainer.” My notes: Priced at $32.95 in BC so Ontario customers have a distinct advantage. This has a deep strawberry colour brightening up a wide bowl. The aromas are full, ripe and evenly balanced between strawberry and cherry with a tinge of forest floor. Long legs lead to a silky, full textured mouthfeel making this a great sipper. Finishes long and soft with the roundness lasting throughout. It’s over my ~$20 range but comes highly recommended by a fellow customer that almost cleared the shelf while I was trying to make up my mind. Sip casually over cheddar filled ham curls or have with any seafood, cold or hot. A flavourful but mild pinot on the borderline of being a rich rosé. Drinking well now and could cellar up to four years. 88

TORLESSE CANTERBURY PINOT NOIR 2004, Canterbury, NZ, 13.5% XD, #699330 $20.95 (Tasted June 20, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 21, 2008 described as “The burgeoning Canterbury region near Christchurch frequently turns out pale looking [but] otherwise charming pinots that deliver surprising length, which earns the rating here. Aromatics are all about fragrance - with cinnamon spice, strawberry and cherry pie and dried herbs. It's light to midweight, supple, sweetish and warm - very easy drinking. Excellent persistence way beyond its appearance. Now to 2009. 89/100 (David Lawrason, Wine Access, March 3, 2007).” My notes: A deep, crushed strawberry colour and a fragrance to match although with a smoky wood edge. The flavours include a compote of strawberry, blueberry and rhubarb somewhat interesting to sip, but not for everyone, and a smooth satin texture. The ‘right’ balance of tart, tannin and fruit gives this a long but ‘just OK’ finish. Imho, not at peak as a drink-now. Cellar for two years to let the flavours and textures integrate. Should be OK with planked salmon or roast chicken tho’. 80

CONO SUR VISIÓN BLOCK 78 PINOT NOIR 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #689992 $15.95 (Tasted June 19, 2008)

Released by Vintages on June 7, 2008 described as “Made from grapes grown in the renowned Colchagua Valley, this elegant Pinot Noir displays lovely cherry, strawberry and raspberry notes. Silky with fine, soft tannins, this is rounder than some Pinots and will nicely complement smoked salmon or avocado salad.” My notes: The 2006 vintage was tasted in September 2007 with a rating of 86. In March 2006 I tasted their 2005 vintage ‘Varietal Range’ (#341602, $9.95) rating it 79 so I was hesitant but curious enough to go back to Cono Sur again. The Vision price hasn’t changed since the 2006 and the colour is a beautiful mid ruby befitting a large bowl – but let this air for an hour or decant beforehand. A light aroma of humidor and ripe plum with a dash of spicy cherry wafts the nostrils pleasantly. Light legs and a firm nip followed by red cherries flavouring the taste buds ending with the cherries, a tinge of pepper, fine tannin and a bright tang. I didn’t get the ‘strawberry and raspberry notes’. This would benefit from a few years cellar time to cool the tang and possibly introduced some smoothness. OK for the price but not recommended as a hostess gift for a special dinner - lacks elegance. Have at home with planked salmon, prime rib or a roast turkey leg. 80

WYNDHAM ESTATE SHIRAZ BIN 555 2005, South Eastern Australia, 14.5% D, #189415 $16.15 (Retasted June 18, 2008)

My notes: This is a General listing last tasted in December 2007 and rated 91. (The 2004 vintage was tasted at the same time with a 90 rating). This has a deep red plum hue with aromas of rich blackberry tinged with smoky cherry. Medium-bodied to full-, a velvety texture with a burst of blackberry then a mintiness that brightens the palate with layers of flavour. The finish is extended by a firm tartness until the flavours and brightness slowly fade making this an interesting sipper - a new world fruitiness and edge of spice. Sip or pair with beef bourguignon, a well seasoned rack of lamb, burger patties with grilled portabello mushrooms. Cellaring for several years is possible… tho’ not likely to improve over today’s tasting. 91

LA PLAYA BLOCK NO. 23 SELECTION RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2007, Limari Valey, Chile, 13.9% D, #059352 $13.95 (Tasted June 17, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 7, 2008 described as “Hand-picked from a single block in the Limari Valley, this Chard is consistently a superb value. Its bouquet offers pineapple, peach and citrus notes, with ripe tropical fruit flavours on the palate and a smooth, pleasing finish. Perfect for sipping while lounging on the deck with a good book and a bowl of fresh fruit.” My notes: A bland blond colour with viscous layering on the glass when swirled and delicate aromas of ripe melon and dry grass. Full in the mouth with mildly tangy kiwi, melon and grass flavours and finishing a warm, dry straw. A sipper unless more fruit is expected then ‘a bowl of fresh fruit’ could complement or even overwhelm it. I'd suggest sipping with nibbles of mild cheese on crackers, cold sweet and sour chicken wings or egg rolls and plum sauce. Pair with grilled white fishes or sliced chicken breast and plain rice. An OK drink-now for the price. 84

ZENATO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE RIPASSA 2006, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% D, #479766 $24.95 (Tasted June 16, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 10, 2008 described as “… This Ripassa consistently delivers on that philoposphy with its aromas of blackberry, raisins, and rich chocolate. The palate is dry with plenty of fruit flavours, hints of licorice, ripe tannins and even more chocolate. A great match for pasta with meatballs and tomato sauce, roast beef or pecorino cheese.” My notes: Released by Vintages in October, 2007 the 2005 vintage was tasted in March, 2008 with a rating of 87. The 2006 vintage has a deeper colour of black cherries and an aroma of blackberry compote, strong, soft and smoke tinged. Shows long legs in the glass and has a fuller medium-bodied texture with a strong nip followed by bright blackberry and licorice flavours. The finish is strongly flavoured, smooth as milk chocolate and bright. Considering 2005 was thought overpriced at $21.80 this is ~three dollars higher but, as a plus, has much fuller fruit and overlaying complexities making it a better value. A bold sipper or have with anything Italian and meaty. 92

CLOUDY BAY CHARDONNAY 2005, Marlborough, NZ, 14.5% XD, #359513 $39.95 (Tasted June 15, 2008)

A Vintages release on November 10, 2007 described as "With creamy vanillin oak, musk and a savoury complexity to the aroma, even a hint of mushroom, this is a deeply coloured and richly flavoured classy chardonnay with a citrussy backbone to the rich barrel-ferment flavours with toastiness balanced by zest that adds a lovely freshness. A mouth enveloping wine with a touch of caramel and excellent length. Very smart. (Sue Courtney, May 13, 2007)." The winemaker says "Savoury aromas of sesame biscuits and white mushrooms meld with the fragrance of ripe oranges and yellow plums, depicting the combination of wild yeast fermentation and vibrant Marlborough fruit. The palate is textural and generous with zesty citrus and nougat flavours, subtle toasty oak, and a long mineral finish." My notes: The aroma is the first inkling of at least the possibility of an exceptional wine. This is the case with this chard… having a pronounced clean aroma of butterscotch and tangy gooseberries. A buttery smoothness carries with it flavours of fine caramel and the juice of fresh gooseberries. The finish starts with a burst of cream then fades to a definite herbaceous edge leaving the palate washed in warmth. A delectable sipper or have with any seafood. Father’s Day brings a family tradition of steamed lobster with pots of clarified butter. Drinking well now but could cellar several years. 94

CAVE SPRING ESTATE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario Canada, 13.0% D, #302059 $19.95 (Tasted June 14, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 24, 2008 described as “… One of Niagara Peninsula's leading vintners of premium wine, Cave Spring struck gold this year at Cuvee winning a top medal for this gewurztraminer. It has an intense rosewater bouquet and spiced lychee character typical of the grape. Full, flavourful with nice depth, it's a classic example of the varietal. (Margaret Swaine, The National Post, March 15, 2008).” My notes: A light golden colour with fragrant aromas of lychee and kiwi melon. Smooth, somewhat soft textured on the first swallow with blended flavours of lime and sweet melon ending with a grassy spice. A sociable sipper that would have general appeal. Serve well chilled by itself or with mild hors d’oeuvres or a fruit and cheese tray. Pair with a course of linguine with a light pesto sauce or cold salmon shredded on baby spinach with an orange dressing. 88

ANAKENA ONA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #059501 $16.95 (Tasted June 10, 2008)

A Vintages release on June 7, 2008 described as “Pale straw. Intensely perfumed, suave bouquet of tangerine, pear, quince, quinine and mint. Juicy citrus fruit and herbal flavours are firmed by dusty minerals, picking up an anise quality with air. Finishes dry and firm, with excellent clarity and persistence. 90/100 (Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar, March/April 2008).” My notes: A light blond colour with grassy edged aromas of gooseberries. Long legs on the glass gives a hint of cream that comes in a medium-bodied tangy textured tasting. Ripe gooseberries finish long and bright on the palate cleansing without cleaning and leaving lots of cream behind. Served chilled it’s an interesting summer sipper not too heavy for the patio crowd and pairs very well with seafood of all kinds from oysters to planked salmon, perhaps cold chicken with a lightly creamed bow-tie pasta or Thai dishes. Cellaring for several years should be OK but I’d go two years at a time. 90

STONEY RIDGE CHARDONNAY 2004 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 13.0% D, #292839 $13.05 (Tasted June 10, 2008)

The winery describes this as “… an excellent example of the classic Beamsville Bench terrior producing a rich yet fruity Chardonnay. The nose has a wash of tropical fruit flavours including banana, pineapple, citrus and apple mingled with sweeter aromas of vanilla and butterscotch. The palate is light bodied and very smooth with subtle flavours of melon and pear concluding with a soft oak finish. Excellent balance of oak and fruit. Drink now or hold for up to 7 years.” My notes: A clean blond colour with a burst of orange blossom that subsides quickly. Flavours are transient leaving a bosc pear/apple remnant behind in a moderate creamy finish. A passive sipper with a slight acid seam - I’d say better to quaff well chilled or to accompany lightly seasoned fare: asparagus spears and chicken pieces with fruit salad, a ham spread on toasts. A drink-now for an open house where it can be a choice of anyone preferring a lighter, almost unoaked chardonnay. 78

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada, 12.5% XD, #453423 $15.95 (Tasted June 3, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 24, 2008 described as “Château des Charmes won an astounding 8 medals at the 2007 Canadian Wine Awards, including a Silver for this bright and fruity Sauvignon Blanc. This dry, medium-bodied Savvy displays an array of grapefruit, gooseberry and mineral aromas and offers tantalizing citrus flavours balanced by lovely acidity and a crisp, lingering finish. A great match for smoked trout or a tomato and basil pasta.” My notes: A golden colour with long legs and aromas of dry straw and sweaty gooseberries. Balanced toward tart with white grapefruit leanings finishing crisp and dry, tapering from firm citrus to mildly herbaceous and a slight mineral oil. A different sauvignon blanc - perhaps the vintner’s style – and a marginal sipper better with nibbles: lobster spread on dry breads or bruschetta. Pair with grilled fish dishes. A drink-now. 80

WAIMEA ESTATES SPINYBACK PINOT NOIR 2006, Nelson, NZ, 13.5% D, #060079 $18.95 (Tasted June 1, 2008)

A Vintages Release on May 24, 2008 described as “The lizard-like Tautara (a.k.a. Spinyback) is native to New Zealand. Apparently, it's the last living dinosaur! Waimea Estates donates 5 cents of every bottle sold to help protect this unique species. Showing sour cherry, toasty oak and spicy characteristics, this lighter-style Pinot Noir from Nelson is ready to drink and would be perfect served lightly chilled along with some light summer fare.” My notes: This has a sweaty (in a good sense) strawberry compote aroma with long legs and a strawberry skin colour, midway to deep. The initial sip has a bright flavour of cherries and strawberries balanced with a very fine tannin and mild acid, on the light side of medium-bodied. Finishes with equal parts strawberries and earthy tar, dry and fading slowly. Certainly an interesting sipper although I found the ‘earthy tar’ aspect excessive. My net is it’s not a sipper… serve with hors d’oeuvres: cocktail sandwiches, olives and mild cheeses, ham and relish with dry crackers. Should be great with grilled arctic char or grilled ham steaks but not a value. 82

Grape, Wine and Style

Epiphanies only come to me once or twice a year and I have to get them down on paper in case they’re meaningful – so please excuse me while I expound (rant). I’m beginning to think there’s a profound difference in how ‘we’ taste wine. When I taste some wines, I just plain don’t like them! …and I can tell you exactly what I dislike. And yet critics may have rated the same wine into the high numbers.

I know it’s not the ‘grape’… the grape itself is innocent, in fact noble. A grape on the vine does its best sapping up as much as nature and the soil around it has to offer. But then it’s collected by hand pickers or machines, stomped by feet or basket press and fermented, aged in whatever then bottled and aged again. This last of the sequence produces ‘wine’. Conceived and executed by man the wine is an option of its maker. Some grapes go through a manufacturing process and some a winemaking process – no one can hold the grape responsible for whatever the process. At times the maker’s option can suit a ‘style’ following certain producton steps or methods founded in history.

When a wine critic judges the liquid in front of him giving it a number using whatever system, is he judging the grape, is it the wine or is it the style? I’m convinced many critics waver among these – like shifting from one foot to another trying to stay balanced - using any relevant knowledge that comes to mind at the time of individual swirls and sips. A ‘wine’ rating can end up including factors never intended as part of a merit level.

You and I may have an advantage over the critic. I’m certainly not trained as an oenophile. I’m just a consumer. I rate wines according to ‘Do I like it?’ After I decide that question I look into my wallet and decide whether my liking a wine is balanced by a desire to cellar a few bottles. Price is clearly a budgetary consideration and not of my merit system. And I could care less if Vouvray is known for a style of chenin blanc. Nor could I care if a flying consultant has participated in the production of a wine... or if Count whoever’s family planted the original vines that form a Bordeaux legend. Sidelights make an interesting column but aren’t part of a merit system. The net is I don’t give points for the ‘grape’ nor ‘style’ - just the ‘wine’.

On the other hand, a critic may decide a wine to be an oyster shucking aperitif and decide what the resulting merit parameters should be. Or a critic could know a wine comes from Chablis and decide it should taste of clay or pluvial soil and assign pluses or minuses accordingly. Or, on the scale of 1 to 5 how ‘burgundian’ is this Niagara pinot noir? In a perfect world a wine critic should not know or consider beforehand where, what, when or why of the bottle from whence his sample is poured - but you can’t undo knowledge – you have to channel it.

Wines should be sampled depending only on the sensory abilities of sight, smell and taste. Develop these senses and you are your own wine judge. First, based on your tasting experience, you determine ‘Do I like the aroma, the flavours and how the wine leaves my palate?’ Then, after the first foot is in place, you put the second foot down… ‘When would I like to have this wine again?’ Now you're standing firm. The ultimate goal is to confidently choose a wine for a particular occasion, a family supper table or a candle lit evening. You choose the ‘wine’ - then ‘grape’ and ‘style’ will fall in line.

Now I’ll return to my cage… cheers,

Ww

'The Star' Rated Wines: 10 Tasted of 10

My first task in the morning is to check for e.mails. My second task on Wednesdays is to flip to Gord Stimmell’s column at thestaronline for his wine picks. Having started this theme of buying wines based on ‘Best Buys’ I thought it’s time to compare ‘picks’ in his column, GORD ON GRAPES. I’ve somewhat concluded after reading several columnists for many years, mostly online, they appear to be driven by 1) space, 2) editorial guidance, 3) politics, 4) personal bias (perceived) and not the least 5) need to make a living.

When a combination of these influences their recommendations unreasonably I get off the boat. In my opinion Gord Stimmell states his tasting results succinctly, doesn’t hedge his critiques and, although remaining politically correct, in some instances ‘calls a spade, or plonk in this case, a spade’. As well he hasn’t succumbed to tasting wines in the stratosphere, ie. beyond my (a typical reader?) budget.

That’s an intro to say this blog entry includes wines from three successive columns under the GORD ON GRAPES byline: May 17th, 24th and 28th. When tasted wines are in bold.

Cheers, W

• Ninquén Antu Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère 2006, GS89, 93-3 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #059329 $15.95
• Ortas Tradition Rasteau 2006, GS90, 90-2 -- V, Rhone, France, #998716 $15.95
• Paso Hondo Alta Seleccion Pinot Noir 2007, GS89, 89-2 -- V, Bío Bío Valley, Chile, #685925 $14.95
• Terra D’Aligi Monte D’Abruzzo 2005, GS89, 84 -- G, Abruzzo, Italy, #028530 $11.85
• Vincent Sauvestre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2005, GS89, 80 -- V, Burgundy, France, #066456 $15.95

• Lammershoek 'Barrique' Chenin Blanc 2007, GS90, 92-2 -- V, Swartland, South Africa, #058206 $18.95
• Schloss Schoenborn Riesling Kabinett 2005, GS91, 90-2 -- V, Germany, #928184 $18.95
• Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery Birch Canoe Pinot Blanc 2006 VQA Okanagan Valley, GS90, 87 -- V, BC, Canada, #070706 $17.95
• Angels Gate Sussreserve Riesling 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, GS90, 86 -- G, Ontario, Canada, #620104 $14.15
• LaCheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2006, GS89, 80 -- V, Loire, France, #525106 $14.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

SCHLOSS SCHÖNBORN RIESLING KABINETT 2005, Germany, 10.0% M, #928184 $18.95 (Tasted June 25, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 24, 2008 described as “Pale lemon yellow colour leads to a nose rife with cloved peach, beeswax, buckwheat honey and lemon curd. Medium in sweetness with a rich, creamy mouthfilling texture. It is quite full-bodied with a long, perfectly balanced finish. Perfect for that just-caught mess of freshwater fish. (VINTAGES panel, March 2008).” My notes: A clear, leaning to light blond colour with a faint honey spice fragrance in a tall glass. Honey textured with flavours of spicy, sweet apple leaving a tangy tinge on the tongue and finishing with a sweet apple. I’d guess a SC of three or four. A sociable sipper for a summer patio crowd with aged cheddar and gherkins… or have with spicy thai or sechuan dishes. The alcohol level lets this cool quickly for easy quaffing and leaves a pleasant sweetness behind – have extras on hand. Ageing for several years should promote interesting sidelights altho’ drinking well now. Ww90

ORTAS TRADITION RASTEAU 2006, Rhone, France, 14.0% XD, #998716 $15.95 (Tasted June 14, 2008)

Vintages released this on May 24, 2008 saying “Beginning with the 2006 vintage, Cave de Rasteau uses the Ortas brand name for all their wines. Chewy but fresh, with dark fig, tobacco, tar and mineral notes that are pushed by briary tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2009. 89/100 (James Molesworth, April 28, 2008).” My notes: A rich ruby somewhat elegant in a wide bowl and delicate aromas that need time to develop: a warm plum and soft leather. The flavours are subtle: black cherry, blackberry, red currant and mild clay needing a few sips to blossom. The textures present themselves quickly: satin soft and full-bodied taking the flavours into a long rich finish. I’d call this a polite red; not a spicy challenge just to enjoy. Pair with prime rib and sautéed wild mushroom in a red wine gravy or dark fowl in the same sauce. Cellaring for several years could provide some intriguing flavour layers. A value rhone. Ww90

NINQUÉN ANTU CABERNET SAUVIGNON/CARMENÈRE 2006, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #059329 $15.95 (Tasted June 14, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 24, 2008 described as “Going strong for the past decade, Viña MontGras' Ninquén Project was born of an appreciation for the terroir of Ninquén Mountain in the Colchagua Valley… this full-bodied blend of Cab and Carmenère is quite muscular with aromas and flavours of ripe black cherries and cassis with elegant smoke and mineral notes.” Their spec sheet gives barrel use as “French (73%) and American Oak (27%), 45% new, 55% used.” My notes: ‘Ooo! that’s nice.’ was my comment on first sniff. This was a bronze medal winner at The International Wine Challenge 2008 in the UK. A blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% carmenère with a nose full of blackberry with a spicy edge, wood smoke and slight vanilla. The colour is garnet cast deep ruby and flavours come with a penetrating seam of tart and rich blackberries. Fine tannins lace velvet textures and the finish is a dry, smooth chocolate. An interesting sipper… has enough to satisfy both the ‘bold cab’ and the ‘new world’ red imbiber. Have with rare roasts, T-bones, rich stews or lamb shanks in a savoury gravy with mixed vegetables. Cellaring this for several years would be rewarding, comes integrated now but could go some more. A real value. Ww93

TERRA D'ALIGI MONTE D'ABRUZZO 2005, Abruzzo, Italy, 13.0% D, #028530 $11.85 (Tasted June 9, 2008)

A General listing described as “Dark garnet in colour, it shows intense aromas of stewed black cherry, violet and sour cherry. Medium to full-bodied, fruit-forward, somewhat earthy and ripe, it ends with sour cherry and leather tones. Serve with veal stew, grilled red meat.” My notes: Terra D'Aligi, owned by the Spinelli family, produces this red which is 100% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo aged 12 months in Slavonia barrels. A black cherry skin colour with aromas of delicate blackberries, a soft bramble and a whiff of earth. There’s a brightness in the first sip followed by a well balanced combination of fine tannin, mild acidity and red berries leaving predominantly a dry red berry then a light woody ending. Very acceptable as a house red leaving most refreshed but waiting for hors d’oeuvres of sausage pieces, shaved meats or bruscetta. Quaff with red sauced pasta dishes or triple cheese pizzas. A drink-now. Ww84

ANGELS GATE SUSSRESERVE RIESLING 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada, 11.0% M, #620104 $14.15 (Tasted June 6, 2008)

A General listing described as “Clear, bright pale straw colour; aromas of pear, lime, mineral with peach pit notes; off dry, medium bodied, fresh and crisp, with ripe peach, lime and pear flavours; good length. Serve as an aperitif, with light seafood dishes, or pan fried trout.” My notes: A clear light blond colour with lemon floral and honey, overall a light nose. The first sip brings lemonade flavours and a finish of bright lemonade including some crushed seeds giving the ending a slight pithy spiciness. Serve well chilled then let go offchill for subtle changes to flavour, more tree fruit, and a smooth finish. If you’re looking for petrol there’s none. Some fruit sweetness perhaps a SC of 2 is balanced nicely with a mild acid. Have with nibbles: a tray of cheeses, black olives and cocktail shrimp or minced ham and relish. Pair with grilled fresh water fish. It would be good sipper for patio guests or as a before or after dinner refresher. Ww86

GANTON & LARSEN PROSPECT WINERY BIRCH CANOE PINOT BLANC 2006 VQA Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada, 12.5% D, #070706 $17.95 (Tasted June 5, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 10, 2008 described as “2006 marks the debut vintage for this new venture from Mission Hill. Ganton and Larsen are the two growers who supplied Mission Hill with its grapes in the winery's early years. These well-respected properties are now the source for terrific wines like this ripe and fresh tasting Pinot Blanc. Showing honey, floral, pear and grapefruit characteristics, this wine would pair beautifully with freshwater fish.” My notes: This starts as a winner from the aroma of sweet apple and ripe pear. A clear light gold with a crisp first swallow and flavours of lemon and pear, no sweetness or it’s masked completely by acids. The finish continues the tart theme with some roundness creeping through at the end. An awakener as a sipper. Serve chilled with hors d’oeuvres of garlic shrimp, fresh shucked oysters, bacon wrapped scallops… and definitely a companion for seafood. If tart fruit is needed then this is a super offering…if not, cellaring two years may mellow somewhat. Ww87


LAMMERSHOEK BARRIQUE CHENIN BLANC 2007, Swartland, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #058206 $18.95 (Tasted June 4, 2008)

Vintages says “South Africa produces some of the best Chenin Blanc wines in the world and this is a great example. With grapes hand-picked from 40-year-old bush vines and hand-sorted to ensure only the very best fruit is used, Lammershoek's Chenin Blanc is the embodiment of a hand-crafted wine. Rich with honey, smoke and baked apple aromas, this dry, full-bodied wine is elegant and complex and will pair well with rich seafood, roast chicken and pastas in a cream sauce.” My notes: A rich golden blond colour and nose of melon, faint apricot and firm straw, with flavours of equal parts slightly green honeydew melon and tangy citrus. The texture is well rounded then finishing long, bright, straw edged ending with lots of cream. An unusual but interesting dry sipper with layers of flavour varying with each sip. Serve well chilled then enjoy the changes as the glass goes offchill. Have by itself or with mild cheeses, chicken nuggets, snow crab claws or lobster bisque. Pair with fresh oysters beforehand then with a whole chicken butterflied seasoned in an oregano, lemon and garlic marinade and grilled. Cellar or drink now. Ww92

VINCENT SAUVESTRE BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2005, Burgundy, France, 12.5% D, #066456 $15.95 (Tasted June 1, 2008)

A Vintages release on May 10, 2008 described as “The 2005 vintage is rightly being praised far and wide as one of the greatest for Burgundy. In a vintage of this high peerage, even the basic Bourgogne wines are great. Ripe fruits, great structure and the bonus of either current enjoyment or potential for cellar ageing (2-4 years) are possible with this fine wine from Vincent Sauvestre. A good partner for grilled ham, broiled stuffed chicken or poached salmon with fresh herbs.” My notes: A black cherry skin colour, light legs and aromas of crushed black cherries although moderate. On the light side of medium-bodied and has a bright intro to light flavours of almost ripened crushed cherries leaving a tinge of flavours for a short dry finish. A meal red… have with roast lamb, prime rib or roast chicken. The textures and flavours aren’t that interesting to recommend as a sipper and there’s not enough there to gain from cellaring. Ww80

PASO HONDO ALTA SELECCION PINOT NOIR 2007, Bío Bío Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #685925 $14.95 (Tasted May 13, 2008)

Vintages says “Aware of their impact upon the environment, Viñedos Córpora Canata's Paso Hondo winery is run completely by solar power. Grown in the cool, up-and-coming Bío Bío Valley, this Pinot Noir exhibits many of the pluses of the New World and European Wine techniques. There is, first, upfront fruit, then an exceptional structure provided by crisp acids and ripe tannins. It is cellarable for 2-3 years or a good companion tonight for roast beef.” My notes: A smoky ripe strawberry nose and deep strawberry colour with light legs, the flavours are delicate at first building with warmth and character to become velvety, sumptuous and balanced both tannin and acid, medium-bodied. Has a long smooth finish with ripe fruit, light mineral and soft earthiness. An interesting sipper congenial in both flavour and spirit, a drink-now, a super value and should cellar quite well earning more points. A burgundy without the expense. Ww89

LACHETEAU VOUVRAY LES LOGES 2006, Loire, France, 11.5% MD, #525105 $14.95 (Tasted May 30, 2008)

Vintages says “The vines for this wine are nurtured in the perfect admixture of siliceous/clay soil, limestone and a tuffeau rock sub-layer that supplies superb drainage for Chenin Blanc. Fermented at low temperatures to slowly extract all the flavours possible, this medium-dry, superbly balanced Chenin Blanc displays layers of peach, pear, lemon and apricot aromas and flavours. Age 3-5+ years or match now with mildly spiced seafood dishes.” My notes: A light golden colour and aromas of delicate green pear and slight floral, this light-bodied white is fully integrated, tree fruit with a touch of tartness and a natural sweetness. Finishes moderately long with mostly sweet quince and mineral. Chenin blanc can be acidic with bold fruit and honeyed floral aromas… or bland and neutral. This is more the latter. Pleasant for sipping if not a tad bland then low on acid and warmth. Have with mild cheeses or an M&M shrimp ring… perhaps a creamy mushroom pasta or with a slice of lime or lemon wedge as an aperitif. Not a style I’d serve to guests. Ww80

Winepointer #7 Rated Wines: 10 Tasted of 10

Winepointer #7 covers Vintages’ Release of May 24, 2008. Following Winepointer's recommendations in the last Release was certainly better than ‘whimming’ it and the ratings given were more in line with my tastes than any of the ‘mags’ ‘Best Buys’ previously blogged here. This isn’t to criticise the ‘mags’ as there are several factors that weigh against their selection of wines: time to publish being the biggest detractor. Then there’s - are they available locally? are they the same vintage? and depending on a broad spectrum of multiple taster preferences likely contrary to my own. 'Mags' may be the best bet for narrowing down choices – although I believe ‘whimming it’ can be just as good if you stick to Vintages wines. 

Perhaps Winepointer #6 just coincidentally aligned more often with my ratings. This blog entry attempts to put this comparison to the test - not that Winepointer needs my certification, more that my tastes or preferences need qualifying. Rather than following only the ‘best values’ list I’ve gone into the release items still sticking to ~$20 or less.


A side note: I tried to purchase the AJ Lepp and Wismer Vineyards sauvignon blancs from Peninsula Ridge only to find both ‘sold out’. You really have to be fast in some cases, ie. the 'time to publish' factor. As before, tasted wines are in bold. 
Cheers, Ww

• Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition 2007, RP87-89, 88-1 -- Costières de Nîmes, France, #701094 $12.95
• Finca el Retiro Malbec 2004, RP85-86, 86-1 -- Mendoza, Argentina, #993824 $12.95
• Sacred Hill Basket Press Merlot 2006, RP87-89, 83 -- Hawkes Bay, NZ, #060087 $20.95
• *Mas des Bressades Cuvee Excellence 2006, RP87-89, 74 -- Costières de Nîmes, France, #708750 $17.95

• Sacred Hill Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006, RP90-93, 93-2 – Hawkes Bay , NZ, #060095 $20.95
• *Lammershoek 'Barrique' Chenin Blanc 2007, RP90-93, 92-2 -- Swartland, South Africa, #058206 $18.95
• Sileni Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2007, RP87-89, 90-1 -- Marlborough, NZ, #662882 $15.95
• Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Gris 2007, RP87-89, 89-2 -- Hawkes Bay, NZ, #032292 $14.95
• Salomon Groovey Gruner Veltliner 2007, RP85-86, 88-2 -- Krems, Austria, #669606 $12.95
• LaCheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2006, RP87-89, 80 -- Loire, France, #525106 $14.95
  

 (G - General, V - Vintages, RP - Rod Phillips, r-v - Rating-Value)


TASTINGS:

FINCA EL RETIRO MALBEC 2004, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% XD, #993824 $12.95 (Tasted June 9, 2008)

Vintages says, “Vivid purple colour. Aromatic spicy nose leads to a high-acid palate with good structure. Vivid and full. Long lived. 90/100 (Jamie Goode, www.wineanorak.com, Sept. 2006).” My notes: A soft plum and red cherry fragrance with the colour of a black cherry. The first sip has an interesting tart edge, slight pepper spice and fine tannins giving way to a red cherry flavouring. Finishes moderately dry on the palate with a smooth residual red cherry ending. I enjoyed this as a sipper… medium-bodied and fresh by itself. Would likely cellar well for up to four more years, ‘til 2012. Have with hamburgers, T-bone, poor boys or pizzas. An OK value for a bright house red with an appealing nose. 86

SACRED HILL ‘BASKET PRESS’ MERLOT 2006. Hawkes Bay, NZ, 13.5% D, #060087 $20.95 (Tasted June 8, 2008)

Vintages says “Sacred Hill strikes the perfect balance between winemaking tradition and innovation. Over the last two decades, they have used time-honoured techniques to handcraft exceptional wines all the while leading the industry with many environmental initiatives. Winemaker Tony Bish employed the traditional, hand-operated basket press to gently coax from the grapes the full flavours of this supple Merlot. A rich, plummy nose leads to a deep yet softly textured wine layered with ripe black fruit flavours and supported by gentle tannins.” My notes: This has a deep ruby colour with a pink twist and aromas of a pie crust on a warm blueberry pie. Medium-bodied, long legs without staining on the glass and initial flavours low on berry fruit and high on tannin. Finishes long, dry and drying with an unusal oaky presence somewhat woody. A simple meal wine – save for a lamb chop or ham slice but better cellared for four years to improve complexity of textures. At this point not a value. 83

MAS DES BRESSADES CUVÉE EXCELLENCE 2006, Rhone, France, 14.5% D, #708750 $17.95 (Tasted June 4, 2008)

Vintages says “This is one of my favourite value-priced producers. (Robert Parker Jr., June 2004). This delicious, barrel-aged Syrah, made by a modern producer in one of the southern Rhône's best undiscovered regions, offers exceptional quality and value vintage after vintage. The ripe berry and brambly fruit flavours are balanced by earth, meat and spice notes as well as ample tannin and acidity. Enjoy with grilled leg of lamb or rich meat-pasta dishes.” My notes: From the southern Rhone and Costières de Nîmes it’s one hundred percent syrah with a deep garnet ruby colour. After airing for an hour the aromas settled to a faint roasted horse chestnut and black cherry compote blend. The flavour settled to a concentrated smoky earth floor, oak and blackberry finishing long with texture and concentrated flavour as from the bottom of a well used oak barrel - a wine which process vanquished grape. Has a very warm follow through with firm fine tannins and a balanced tartness - if Buckley’s made wine this would be it. Not a sipper but could be paired with a rich and savoury meal. 74

LAMMERSHOEK BARRIQUE CHENIN BLANC 2007, Swartland, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #058206 $18.95 (Tasted June 4, 2008)

Vintages says “South Africa produces some of the best Chenin Blanc wines in the world and this is a great example. With grapes hand-picked from 40-year-old bush vines and hand-sorted to ensure only the very best fruit is used, Lammershoek's Chenin Blanc is the embodiment of a hand-crafted wine. Rich with honey, smoke and baked apple aromas, this dry, full-bodied wine is elegant and complex and will pair well with rich seafood, roast chicken and pastas in a cream sauce.” My notes: A rich golden blond colour and nose of melon, faint apricot and firm straw, with flavours of equal parts slightly green honeydew melon and tangy citrus. The texture is well rounded then finishing long, bright, straw edged ending with lots of cream. An unusual but interesting dry sipper with layers of flavour varying with each sip. Serve well chilled then enjoy the changes as the glass goes offchill. Have by itself or with mild cheeses, chicken nuggets, snow crab claws or lobster bisque. Pair with fresh oysters beforehand then with a whole chicken butterflied seasoned in an oregano, lemon and garlic marinade and grilled. Cellar or drink now. 92

SACRED HILL BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2006, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 14.0% XD, #060095 $20.95 (Tasted June 2, 2008)

Vintages says “This rich and elegant Chardonnay was aged on its lees for 12 months in French oak before bottling. Dry, full-bodied and creamy, it has layers of peach, citrus and tropical-fruit flavours as well as a hint of toast and vanilla. A delicious and classy wine that's an outstanding value. Pair with steamed lobster or butter chicken.” My notes: A bright golden colour, crisp and clear, with long legs and firm aroma of gooseberries. The nose continues to develop as the glass breathes. Full-bodied and a very smooth texture with lots of butter and gooseberry flavours including a slight oak tang on the way down then growing into a velvet, buttery, warm finish. For barrel fermented chardonnay lovers this is close to the ultimate having layers of flavour, depth of texture and a long sumptuous ending. Sip or have with a shrimp ring, crab cakes, duck l'orange, chicken and cashew noodle dish and other chinese treats. Cellaring for several years should deepen the creamy experience. 93

SALoMON GROOVEY GRÜNER VELTLINER 2007, Krems, Austria, 12.5% XD, #669606 $12.95 (Tasted June 1, 2008)

Vintages says “You know a wine is really starting to catch on when it acquires a 'cool' nickname. Grüner Veltliner is now called GrüVe by the in-crowd. Grüner Veltliner may be difficult for people to say (GROON-er VELT-lea-ner), but it is becoming one of the hippest and hottest wines on the market. Dry and flavourful with a peppery or spicy overtone, it is a great match for many fish (especially salmon) and seafood dishes.” My notes: A crisp light lemon colour and a pleasant combination of pear, apple, floral and citrus aromas. Medium-bodied with flavours that carry through a apple citrus theme with a herbaceous sidelight. Vintages says XD but I found a slight residual sweetness - just enough to add roundness but not enough to take away a pleasing tartness. Leaves a smooth apple/citrus lining as a long finish. An interesting sipper for a congenial crowd… serve well chilled with hors d’oeuvres of stuffed mushroom caps, bacon wrapped scallops, bratwurst pieces or cocktail sausages. A good companion for finny dishes of all kinds, lobster meat on greens, planked salmon, etc. An excellent value and cellaring up to two years should be OK. 88

SILENI CELLAR SELECTION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 12.5% XD, #662882 $15.95 (Tasted May 25, 2008)

Vintages says “Pale colour. Bright aromas of lime, grapefruit pith and licorice. Juicy and supple, with lovely spice character to the flavours of underripe melon and pear. Nothing hard about this sauvignon. 88/100 (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, Sept./Oct. 2007).” My notes: A wonderful nose of passionfruit - nothing bitter, nothing sweet. A light golden blond and a slight natural roundness followed by mild passionfruit flavourings and subdued crushed seeds for tartness. The finish is surprisingly consistent not imposing itself as a ‘fruit bomb’. Serve well chilled as a sipper or with fresh oysters, crab cakes, frozen mango yogurt, shrimp salad, or with a cold or hot lobsterfest. An excellent balance between tart fruit, body and textures. If you don’t buy a case it’s because you don’t drink enough! In other words – it's a value. 90

SILENI CELLAR SELECTION PINOT GRIS 2007, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 13.0% D, #032292 $14.95 (Tasted May 27, 2008)

Vintages says “A pretty pink colour dominates this spicy, pear-scented wine. Its medium body and fresh style make it very appealing as a sipper or match it to mussels steamed in this wine and newly picked tarragon.” My notes: A just noticeable peach blush to a crisp white and aromas of delicate melon, pear and slight spice. Fairly long legs with bubbles forming on a swirl previews a nicely rounded texture with delicate melon and pear highlights and a soft white pepper edge. An interesting sipper that would please anyone looking for a suspicion of sweetness and finishing dry, spicy yet retaining some fruit. A versatile meal white, a dozen green lip mussels in a mild curry sauce, garlic shrimp from the grill would be a good match or have Thai, chinese or bento box fare. Cellaring for up to two years should be OK although drinking well now - and a bargain. 89

MAS DES BRESSADES CUVÉE TRADITION BLANC 2007, Rhone, France, 13.5% D, #701094 $12.95 (Tasted May 28, 2008)

Vintages says “The Marès family began making wine in Algeria during the early 20th century and would later acquire properties in Bordeaux (Château Puy Castéra) and in Costières de Nîmes where they founded the renowned winery that produces this wine. Their Cuvée Tradition is a floral, Muscat-like wonder that matches beautifully with the cheeses of the Rhône, such as Sérac and Saint-Marcellin.” My notes: : 40% roussanne and 60% grenache blanc gives this a soft golden colour and a mild bouquet of kiwi, slight pineapple and ripe melon, seems to me. Layers of fruit and a nicely rounded fullness makes this partner to any shellfish, finny variety or broccoli and cheese soup. It has a long and smooth finish with fruit and a mild acid lasting ‘til the end. Serve chilled for a dry mineral sip and let go off chill for a fruity version – both have their appeal. Cellaring up to four years should be OK but for a fresh european white it’s a drink now. 88

LACHETEAU VOUVRAY LES LOGES 2006, Loire, France, 11.5% MD, #525105 $14.95 (Tasted May 30, 2008)

Vintages says “The vines for this wine are nurtured in the perfect admixture of siliceous/clay soil, limestone and a tuffeau rock sub-layer that supplies superb drainage for Chenin Blanc. Fermented at low temperatures to slowly extract all the flavours possible, this medium-dry, superbly balanced Chenin Blanc displays layers of peach, pear, lemon and apricot aromas and flavours. Age 3-5+ years or match now with mildly spiced seafood dishes.” My notes: A light golden colour and aromas of delicate green pear and slight floral, this light-bodied white is fully integrated, tree fruit with a touch of tartness and a natural sweetness. Finishes moderately long with mostly sweet quince and mineral. Chenin blanc can be acidic with bold fruit and honeyed floral aromas… or bland and neutral. This is more the latter. Pleasant for sipping if not a tad bland then low on acid and warmth. Have with mild cheeses or an M&M shrimp ring… perhaps a creamy mushroom pasta or with a slice of lime or lemon wedge as an aperitif. Not a style I’d serve to guests. 80