April 2012 Wines: 21 Tasted of 21

Getting Underway

Some of the April wines were originally listed in March. Others resulted from a casual walk through an Outlet plus the newly released Wines of the Month.     

Is it time to take note of bottle prices? To attack the $B deficit the Provincial government has plans to expand LCBO Outlets... but before new Outlets, I'd expect a marginal(?) increase in the price of every average-to-best selling label on present shelf inventory.  Monopolies are handy at times.  Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, rosés and sparkles:

Channel Bound

• Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre 2009, 92-2  --  V, Contra Costa County, California, #066084  $18.95
• (WOM) Tamarí ar Malbec 2007,  92-2  --  V, Argentina, #273425 $21.95 
• Fabre Montmayou Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,  91a-2  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, #261891  $14.95
• Quinta Da Nespereira Vineaticu 2008, (BC90) 91-2  --  V, Dao, Portugal, #272047 $18.95
• La Posta Cocina Tinto 2010, 90a-2  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #269860 $12.95
• (WOM) Les Dolia Laudun Côtes du Rhône 2009, 90-2  --  V, Chusclan, France, #271999   $18.95
• Errazuriz Single Vineyard Max Reserva Estates Carmenère 2009, (BC90) 90-2  --  V, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, #273300 $18.95
• Anakena ONA Pinot Noir 2010, 86  --  V, Leyda Valley, Chile, #269183 $19.95
• Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Docg 2009, 85  --  G, Chianti, Italy, #267260  $18.95
• Whitehaven Pinot Noir 2008,  82a  --  G, Marlborough, NZ, #245696 $20.65*  
  

• Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chenin Blanc 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 87-2  --  V, Jordan, Ontario, #627315 $17.95
• Ironstone Obsession Symphony 2010,  86  --  V, Napa County, California, #355784 $14.95
• Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011, 85  --  V, Marlborough, NZ, #304469 $29.95
• Planalto Reserva Vinho Branco Seco 2010, (BC89) 84  --  V, Douro, Portugal, #586420   $14.95
• Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2010,  83  --  V, Marlborough, NZ, #214460 $17.95
• Yalumba ‘The Y Series’ Viognier 2011, 82 --  V,  Angaston, South Australia,  #624502 $15.95

• Gassier Sables d’Azur Rosé 2011, 88-2  --  V,  Provence, France, #033621 $13.95

• Domaine J. Laurens les Graimenous Brut Crémant de Limoux 2009, 88-1  -- V,  Limoux, France, #183608 $18.95
• Joseph Cattin Brut Rosé Crémant d'Alsace NV,  87  --  V, Alsace, France, #264572   $17.95 
• Château des Charmes Brut Méthode Traditionnelle VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake NV,  85  --  G, NOTL, Ontario, #224766  $22.95
• Jackson Triggs Entourage Silver Series Brut Méthode Classique 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 81  --  V,  NOTL, Ontario, #234161 $22.95 

(WOM - Wine of the Month, V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated)

TASTINGS:

WINES OF  THE MONTH  for April 2012 - Both released by Vintages on March 31, 2012

(WOM) BODEGA TAMARÍ AR MALBEC 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% XD, #273425 $21.95  (Tasted April 3, 2012)  CS

Rated 92 by Jay Miller (December 2010).  The word tamarí means "do everything with passion" and ‘AR’ is the indigenous Huarpe word for soul. You'll find that this soulful Malbec is indeed crafted with passion.  My notes: Label recommends decanting 30 minutes before serving - not required. A soothing scent of warmed chocolate tainted by blackberries. A swirl leaves a firm rim that sheds slow tears. A deep ruby with strong sippability from several merging factors: a velvet texture, a complex layering of dark fruit and winemaker’s craft, complementing acids and a delayed arrival of fine tannins. A slight flattening at the end.  Sophisticated for its balance and depth and an ability to pair with a wide range of savoury cuisine. This is a red to sip and savour. I would think cellaring for several years is a possibility although drinking very well now. 92

(WOM) LES DOLIA LAUDUN CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2009, Chusclan, France, 14.0% XD, #271999  $18.95  (Tasted April 7, 2012)  CS

Rated 90 by James Molesworth (August 31, 2011).   My notes: Being a blend of 50% Grenache Noir, 50% Syrah this has a Grenache granite tone to the deep ruby of Syrah. There’s a whiff of black berry with some spice and the film sticks then recedes in slow tears from a fragmenting rim. Smooth with a bright acid lining mellowed by fine tannins and blackberry flavours. Flavours continue through a long finish ending with a dry fuzzy touch. A grilled beef tenderloin partner with a breaded cheesy French Onion Soup starter.  Possibly could mellow some more if cellared several years but drinking at peak now. 90


ERRAZURIZ SINGLE VINEYARD MAX RESERVA ESTATES CARMENÈRE 2009. Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #273300  $18.95  (Tasted April 17, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012 and rated 91 by Kurtis Kolt  (August 8, 2011). My notes: Not aerated:  A deep red liquorice colour with a lacquer edge to a sharp aroma of red currant that delays the first sip - a cranberry/currant flavour wrapped in a deep, warm, ripeness softening the sip for a long finish ending dry with light woody touch. The film is thin and leaves a lacy rim to slowly recede partly as long tears and partly as fragments. Medium-bodied and stone dry as a sipper. Pairing with anything grilled and meaty would be appropriate. Cellaring another few years is a minimum, likely more. 90   Aerated:  There's a slight muting of the sharpness to nose and flavour that's welcomed on first taste. Any further changes are minor if at all - but preferred. No change in rating. 90

JACKSON TRIGGS ENTOURAGE SILVER SERIES BRUT MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, NOTL, Ontario, 12.0% XD, #234161  $22.95  (Tasted April 15, 2012)  CS

A Vintages product although this one, by Vincor International, was purchased at a J-T boutique at Metro Foods.  My notes: An impressive burst of fine bubbles that continue to stream to the surface leaving a moussey rim. The first sip after the bristle of spritz is disappointing by comparison, a dull apple flavour showing slight yeast and ending with less flavour except for a subtle softness.  Acid and spritz make this an interesting toasting beverage for a small group of guests - perhaps as an ’amuse bouche’.  Alternatively go for an Crémant d’Alsace at the same price point.  A boutique drink now. 81
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CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BRUT MÉTHODE TRADITIONELLE VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake NV, NOTL, Ontario, 12.0% D, #224766  $22.95  (Tasted April 4, 2012)  CS


My notes:  A General listing and a classic blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.   A profusion of mid to large bubbles on first pour subsiding to a few streams. A crisp straw colour with an aroma of delicate apple, a soft fruitiness with a subtle tang. A strong spritz livens the palate with a burst of creamy flavour quickly settling to a quiet apple, a touch of sweet nicely balanced with acid. A sparkler for a festive crowd, a buffet quencher or a summer patio sipper. 85

CASTELLARE DI CASTELLINA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2009, Tuscany, Italy, 13.5% D, #267260  $18.95  (Tasted April 12, 2012)  CS

A General listing. My notes:  Not aerated:  A garnet hued ruby almost see-through and a film that quickly fragments to a clear glass.  Air thirty minutes for faint raspberry aromas touched with smoke. The first sip is silky with acid balanced by a light tannin both carrying into a long finish, lightly flavoured with smoky, more smoke than fruit, raspberry ending chalk dry. A companion for every meal Italian - meaty pizzas and tomato pastas. Has an interesting old world profile - cellaring several years may smooth making this a simple medium-bodied sipper.  85  Aerated:   Nose has lessened and some silk of the first sip as well. The faint raspberry flavour has less fruit giving acid and tannin more prominence and increasing dryness of the finish while advancing the same ending. Ok as a medium-bodied quaffer if you like dry, light and old world - same pairing and a drink now. Aeration not recommended. 82

DOMAINE J. LAURENS LES GRAIMENOUS BRUT CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX 2009, Midi, France, 12.0% XD, #183608  $18.95  (Tasted April 18, 2012)  CS


Released by Vintages on February 4, 2012.  My notes:  A crisp golden in the glass with continuous streams of fine bubbles leaving a few at the rim. Not quite the burst of suds on pulling the tight, dense cork, in fact, I did a lateral cut across the bulbous top then used a corkscrew to remove the remaining piece in the bottle. A slight aroma of yeast and apple and a flavour of toast, apple and tangerine with a bright acid accent building with each sip - hard not to quaff.  A steady spritz refreshes through a long finish. Medium-bodied and extra dry this would be an interesting bubbly for toasting - or an introductory refresher before a formal dinner.  An inconvenient cork makes serving difficult.  88

QUINTA DA NESPEREIRA VINEATICU 2008, Dao, Portugal, 14.0% XD, #272047   $18.95  (Tasted April 11, 2012)  CS



Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012, rated 90 by Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast (August 1, 2011) and a winner of a Silver MUNDUS vini at Der Grosse Internationale Weinpreis 2011.  My notes: A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Not aerated:  There’s a charcoal hue to a deep ruby colour and a nose that doesn’t intrude - what’s there is an earthy red currant. The rim is smooth with slow tears seeping away until the film disappears. Full-bodied, not a trace of sweet, a reserved acid with elegant tannins layering rich blackberry flavours ending dry and retaining much of the flavour. A succulent sipper for those liking full and dry or to pair with grilled Barbarian rubbed T-bone or slices of Moroccan flank steak. Four years and counting ’til 2020. 91   Aerated:  Tannins are more pronounced, acid is less dominant, a woody-ness that's more noticeable in the finish. Same rating.  91

PLANALTO RESERVA VINHO BRANCO SECO 2010, Douro, Portugal, 12.5% XD, #586420  $14.95  (Tasted April 1, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012.  My notes: Produced from a blend of native grapes to accompany a variety of Portuguese recipes.  Produced from a blend of native grapes to accompany a variety of Portuguese recipes.  A greenish hue to a mid straw and a scent that takes time to develop of lemon zest kissed by a rose and a lacy film that recedes slowly into fragmented islands. Smooth, a mild tang and muted lime on melon flavours has some interest as a sipper although declining quickly to an appealing remnant while adding just a touch of dry mineral.  A meal white to have with delicate seafood and tomato sauced rice dishes. Not enough to cellar - a drink now.  84
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ANAKENA ONA PINOT NOIR 2010, Leyda Valley, Chile, 13.5% XD, #269183  $19.95  (Tasted April 2, 2012)  CS


A Vintages release on March 31, 2012 and a Gold Medal winner at the 2011 Sélections Mondiales des Vins Canada.  Rated 89 by Josh Raynolds of International Wine Cellar (May/June 2011).  My notes:  Not aerated:  A deep ruby with a few specks floating from the crumbly cork.  A faint aroma of black cherry with a touch of spice and a film that quickly fragments as it recedes. Silky smooth with an acid lining that separates texture from flavours of woody cherry - fine tannins build on the palate. The finish ends dry and smooth with a reminder of fruit. Medium-bodied and extra dry I’ll pair with Mom’s Meatloaf  where the red pepper and tender baked ground beef and pork should complement the flavour. A polite drink now. Cellaring may bring more harmony - I’d try four years. B50 C5 N11 F&F13 P2 T5 86  Aerated:  Not appreciably changed.

JOSEPH CATTIN BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE NV, Alsace, France, 12.0% D, #264572   $17.95  (Tasted April 21, 2012)  CS

A Vintages release on March 31, 2012.  My notes: A Gold Medal winner at the 2010 Concours des Vines d’Alsace. A cheery salmon colour, bright and filled with streams of fine bubbles.  A clean nose with a scant mineral scent. The first sip brings a burst of spritz on the tongue and a delicate flavour of red cherries soften by apple and a pleasing tartness -  freshness with a mineral finish. Save for a summer day on the patio or have with an eggs & bacon breakfast in an umbrella’s shade.  As with another cork (Domaine J. Laurens Crémant de Limoux - above) I could not remove by hand -- and a sabre wasn’t handy.  87

LA POSTA COCINA TINTO 2010, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #269860  $12.95  (Tasted April 20, 2012)  CS

A General listing. My notes: A blend of 60% Malbec, 20% Syrah and 20% Bonarda and produced by the Trialto Wine Group.  A dense purple hued ruby with an aroma of spicy berries and dark chocolate. Not aerated: The film holds firmly until the rim laces then slowly recedes.  Ripe berries come first then an earthy seam shows with spice and fine tannins following quickly. Everything blends with fruit dropping slowly leaving mostly an earthy ending. A full-bodied sipper that would appeal to most - the dull, some would say ’dirty’, aftertaste didn‘t appeal to me. Pair with a pepper steak or Osso Buco. Cellaring for several years is likely. 89  Aerated:  The film breaks into long slow tears and the first sip has a softer touch with the same balance of fruit and spice. Tannins show more distinctly coating the mouth and the finish ends somewhat cleaner. Hardly noticeable but I prefer aerating. 90
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CLOUDY BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #304469  $29.95  (Tasted April 9, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on January 7, 2012.   My notes:  Rated 94 in June 2008 the 2005 vintage, priced at $39.95, set the high water mark for this NZ icon. The 2009, $29.95 set the low mark at 83 (October 23, 2010). I’m curious where this vintage will show. The nose has a floral edge to crushed ripened gooseberry very pleasing while sipping. The colour is a pale straw and the first sip offers a tangy muted gooseberry quickly softening to a dry tang on the palate. This ‘icon’ lacks the bracing complexity of previous vintages although still a pleasing sipper and was a suitable partner to Supperworks  Chicken Breast in Filo.  A drink now.  85
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LAWSON'S DRY HILLS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% XD, #214460  $17.95  (Tasted April 9, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on March 17, 2012 and rated 90 by MaryAnn Worobiec, (June 30, 2011). Lawson's Dry Hills is a certified sustainable winegrower.  My notes:  Rated 86 the 2009 vintage tasted in June of last year was an enjoyable ‘socializer for a patio crowd’.  This vintage is a dollar more and has a crisp pale straw colour with a delicate tang to a mild aroma of fresh gooseberries. There’s some smoothness to a chalky first sip with as much mineral as fading gooseberry fruit that quickly shifts to the mineral component. Serve chilled to retain freshness and presence of the fruit - the tang and chalk will stay on its own. Quaffing brings a pleasant density to texture and fruit.  A drink now.  83
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IRONSTONE OBSESSION SYMPHONY 2010, Napa County, California, 12.5%  D, #355784  $14.95  (Tasted April 13, 2012)  CS
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Released by Vintages on March 17, 2012 and made from the Symphony grape, a cross between Grenache Gris and Muscat of Alexandria.  My notes:  The 2004 ($8 US) was tasted in April 2006 and found to be ‘more of a summer sipper‘. The 2009 tasted in March last year was rated 89 and more interesting as a sipper being ‘well balanced and appealingly off-dry’. The 2010 is a light straw colour with an aroma of Royal Gala apple and leaves a lacy rim lazily receding down the glass. Full in the mouth and tangy balanced with a fresh sweetness making this an appealing sipper but tiring after awhile.  A penetrating lime adds to the apple supporting a long clean finish. Went well with my tray of sushi sprinkled liberally with soy and would with a Chinese assortment. A drink now - keep chilled.  86
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GASSIER SABLES D'AZUR ROSÉ 2011,  Provence, France, 12.5% D, #033621  $13.95  (Tasted April 16, 2012)  CS


Released by Vintages on March 31, 2012. My notes:  A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault.  For mid April this is a blistering hot day (25 deg. C) in southern Ontario and time to preview a summer sipper.  La Provence produces rosés that satisfy most although the pedigree of this label is difficult to track. Salmon pink, this sips dry, a lightly tangy aromatic blend in which no grape is distinct. A pronounced floral sets off pleasurable tastes of apple and citrus. Medium-bodied, a soft texture and a moderate acid balances the mild natural sweetness.  Poured at 15 C this needs to chill down to 8 - 12C for best sipping. Have with a bowl of berries, rasp- or straw- or grilled tilapia with rice.  Likely could cellar for several years to give up some cosmetic blush. 88

CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED CHENIN BLANC 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, Jordan, Ontario, 11.5% D, #627315   $17.95  (Tasted April 18, 2012) CS

A Vintages release.  My notes: First enjoyed at Solara Bistro with Parpadelle and Tiger Shrimp, Mushroom Soup and Risotto Fungilli all freshly prepared. The aroma is porcini mushrooms but with additional tang and the colour is a soft gold. A swirl forms a sold lacy rim that quickly falls clearing the glass. The first sip carries, surprisingly to me, the same mushroom flavour delicately accented by melon then going into a long finish ending chalk dry. By itself it’s an unusual sipper not without appeal but better paired with a green salad or a creamy Italian pasta. The mushroom tone quickly blends with many servings adding an earthy charm.  Four years now and could cellar another four before fading. 87

YALUMBA ‘THE Y SERIES’ VIOGNIER 2011, Angaston, South Australia,  13.5% D, #624502  $15.95  (Tasted April 9, 2012) CS
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Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012.   My notes:  The Viognier grape originated from the Rhône and the Yalumba Viognier has consistently been good over several vintages (2004, 2006, 2008 tasted earlier).  The colour is a mid straw and aromas, not the expected floral but an interesting nose on the vegetable side. A lacy rim quickly recedes unbroken until islands are formed. Nicely full in the mouth with silk and tang while lemon, green apple and lime (mineral) flavours take their time to show then end chalky and tart. Pick your tasters as this white doesn’t appeal to everyone - or pair with seafoods or Asian. Perhaps cellaring a few years will smooth some roughness? - don’t think so. 82
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FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009, Mendoza, Argentina,  14.5%  XD, #261891   $14.95  (Tasted April 14, 2012)  CS
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Supper Setting

Released by Vintages on April 14, 2012 and winner of IWSC Trophy 2010 for quality. Rated 91 by Jay Miller  (December 2010).  My notes:  Not aerated: Charcoal hued surface with purple edges and a nose of wet carbon and ripened black fruit lead to a mild first impression.  The film sticks before sliding as slow tears. The first sip attacks the palate, lays a thick fuzz and an extra dry dull black currant. The finish is long starting hot, rich in texture and ending dry with muted fruit. Not enjoyed as a sipper however would think partnering with a herb-rubbed steak, pepper steak or braised lamb shank w/coriander, fennel and star anise  would be great. Cellaring may mellow some roughness but the heat will stay - I suggest four years. 88  Aerated:  Aeration takes much of the sting from sipping. The velvet fuzz is retained along with a stronger black currant flavour altho’ some of the currant edge is missing and the finish ends with less but cleaner fruit - a beauty of a sipper! Cellaring for several years may mellow the tannin and acids - the heat will stay. A drink now with same pairing (couldn't find the lamb so sub'd with beef --- excellent pairing!).  91

CLINE ANCIENT VINES MOURVÈDRE 2009, Contra Costa County, California, 15.0%  XD, #066084  $18.95  (Tasted April 23, 2012)  CS
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  Released on May 14, 2011 this is no longer listed by Vintages. My notes: Tasted last year just after release and rated 94 noting “visual, texture and flavour profile, is of a sedate men’s club complete with smoking jacket and Havana cigar” - ageing only a year we’ll see if my tasting holds true. Not aerated:  A charcoal hued deep ruby with a delicate spice edged, scent of black- and blueberries. A swirl leaves a lacy rim quickly followed by slow legs to eventually clear the bowl.  A full flavoured black fruit evenly matched by fine tannins and a bright acid that gets approval as a sipper. Flavour and texture change quickly through revolving stages of acid, tannin and fresh fruit ending smooth and dry. The finish builds growing a fine fuzz and warmth with each sip. Have with anything beefy and grilled from pepperoni pizza to prime rib. No roughness - just a mourvèdre sobriety.  92  Aerated:  A more moderate scent while retaining a full blue- and blackberry flavour, very fresh, textured by satin and a moderate acid - no longer ‘exciting‘. The finish goes through the same stages ending warm and dry.  Cellaring longer not likely to show improvement.  90 



WHITEHAVEN PINOT NOIR 2008, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% D, #245696  $20.65*  (Tasted April 30, 2012)  CS


A General listing and *reduced from $22.65 until April 29, 2012.   My notes: A see through charred hued ruby with a musty (before aerating) scent of berries. A swirl leaves a lacy rimmed film with long legs sticking to the glass. The first sip leaves a silky layer with tangy flavours of  light liquorice and faint strawberry that fade slowly then end dry with mineral and spicy berry. Interesting with a vegetal aspect as a sipper - to me, not that appealing. OK paired with grilled lamb chops on leeks and mashed turnip/potato - perhaps tuna or sword fish steak would be better? Not for cellaring.  82

April 2012: 4 Pouilly-fumé Tasted

Logo of les Vignerons de Pouilly

The history of Pouilly-sur-Loire and Pouilly-Fumé. 

A Quote from their website: "Pouilly Fumé - a funny name for a wine!
Yet it is here, in Pouilly-sur-Loire, that the Sauvignon grape variety develops unrivalled complexity and aromatic palate.
A dry, fruity white wine, Pouilly Fumé is full-bodied. It recreates for us the inimitable taste of the Pouilly land in its bottle thanks to its "flinty" aromas. Its mineral and fruity aromas are its trademark!
Several million years old, the Pouilly land, made up of Kimmeridgian marls and hard calcareous rock and flint, gives Pouilly Fumé its minerality, finesse and its rather fresh and lively character, clear-cut and long in the mouth, with hints of fruit always present. These may include citrus fruits (hints of lemon and grapefruit), fruits from the area and elsewhere (redcurrant, bush-peach, passion fruit, lychee), white flowers (acacia, lily); as well as hazelnut and quince.
Here in this incomparable land, the fine Pouilly wines are born from the constant labours of the wine producers, for your pleasure."
"...Pouilly Fumé can be kept for five to ten years, according to the year and vintage. It normally peaks in its second or third year. It exists as a white wine only and should not be confused with the similar-sounding Maçon wine, Pouilly Fuissé , a product of the Chardonnay grape. "

The following were available from Vintages and in my price bracket.

Buy a few and taste along with me. Salut, Ww

LISTED:

• Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly-Fumé 2009, 94-3  --  V, Pouilly-sur-Loire, France, #246033 $22.95
• André et Edmond Figeat les Chaumiennes Pouilly-Fumé 2010, 92-2  --  V, Pouilly-sur-Loire, France,  #196659  $21.95
• Domaine de Congy Cuvée les Galfins Pouilly-Fumé 2009,  84  --  V, Pouilly-sur-Loire, France,  #244780 $24.95 
• Domaine Tabordet Pouilly-Fumé 2009, 83  --  V, Verdigny, France, #907824  $22.95

(V - Vintages,  r-v  - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

ANDRÉ et EDMOND FIGEAT LES CHAUMIENNES POUILLY-FUMÉ 2010, Pouilly sur Loire, France,  13.0% XD, #196659  $21.95  (Tasted April 5, 2012)  CS

Release by Vintages on October 15, 2011.  My notes: A mid straw colour with an appealing aroma of buttery apple pie wrapped in a briny tang. The film recedes slowly as a lacy rim and the first sip has an tart apple pear flavour, crisp on the palate and slowly turning to a mild smoky bacon, dry to the end. An interesting medium-bodied sipper and equally suitable with smoked oysters, bacon wrapped asparagus, a seafood medley or roast turkey. Cellaring for several years is likely possibly introducing more butter(scotch). 92

DOMAINE DE CONGY CUVÉE LES GALFINS POUILLY-FUMÉ, Pouilly sur Loire, France,  12.5% XD, #244780  $24.95  (Tasted April 5, 2012)  CS

A Vintages release date not given.   My notes: A faded straw with a faint floral and citrus-almond aroma. The film sticks then a lacy rim recedes slowly without fragmenting. The first sip has a softness that appeals with a touch of citrus, melon and mild acid. Nicely balanced as a sole sipper better paired with seafood entrées not highly seasoned. The finish pushes the first flavours for a short while then subsides to a soft and dry layer on the palate. Nothing to cellar - a drink now.  84

DOMAINE TABORDET POUILLY-FUMÉ 2009, Verdigny, France, 13.5% XD, #907824   $22.95  (Tasted April 15, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on June 25, 2011.  My notes:  A pale straw colour with a moderate aroma of gooseberry and citrus that fades quickly. The rim laces then steadily recedes unbroken. The first sip is bright followed by a flat mineral texture lacking a defined fruit then continuing to end with a tangy lemon. Overall, medium-bodied, extra dry with a subtle lemon pulp although character builds over a few sips. Did not contribute to a meal of bbq’d chicken pieces and asparagus spears - may do better with Chinese fare. Not enough to cellar - a drink now.  83


DOMAINE DE BEL AIR POUILLY-FUMÉ 2009, Pouilly sur Loire, France, 13.0% XD, #246033   $22.95   (Tasted April 11, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on Jul 23, 2011. Won a Gold Medal at International Wine Challenge, 2010.  My notes: A mid straw colour with intense aroma of grapefruit, lime and lemon. The first sip has the same flavour combination adding a chalky dryness that both interests and awakens the taste buds. Texture is soft and silky filling the mouth then carrying the flavour letting it eventually decline. There’s a ’pond scum’ allure forcing a yes or no - is this a sipper or not? I say YES! Definitely a meal white with seafood, finny or shell. Went well with dill and cream cheese in filo appetizers from Supperworks. Went well with Cuban cod with tomato, onion and capers spooned over basmati rice with an asparagus side. Cellaring for several years is likely. 94

March 2012: 5 Chardonnays

Start

A Blind Tasting - March 2012

For these Chardonnays I’ll be looking for two things: a ‘dolomite/mineral’ terroir and ‘value‘. *Only one of the five was tasted previously, at a local Bistro - I’ll see if it can be singled out. And will the price spread be sufficient to distinguish ‘value’ between wines - how will they relate?

Comments:
I found a blind tasting of several similar wines using the ‘masked’ bottle approach to be a difficult task. Frankly I need more time with each wine than normally available during a 'social' blind tasting - repetitive visits to be able to differentiate and to evaluate. That’s not including the changes that can occur during a tasting.

Whether a ‘blind’ evaluation will be the same as enjoying a wine served on a specific occasion is unlikely. That’s a comparison still to be attempted. There’s enough information conveyed by a label alone that can lead to nuances of merit, building anticipation to pair and compare. For a ‘blind tasting’ bottles are to be hidden from even a cursory glance - ie. not left on the tasting table even when masked.

The format to be used:

1. Use as many glasses as wines - and 'thin lipped glasses' not 'plastic - thick or thin'
2. Pour the same amount of wine for each taster before the tasting starts - temperature makes a difference
3. Do the pouring while the tasters mingle in a  different room, for two reasons:

• The pourer can be distracted
• Tasters can be distracted (Oh! I saw the corks on the counter…)

Now that glasses are poured the tasting can start:

Elements tasted can be in any order that works for the taster. To be consistent some system is recommended even the one that came with the Blind Tasting Kit. To a sole taster his system usually results in a 'top to bottom' ranking - perfectly adequate when comparing with other guests at this level.


For me, I use Wine Advocate's 100 point Rating System (WARS) with 5 components: a Base of 50, Colour of 5, Nose of 15, Flavour & Finish of 20 and the remaining 10 for cellaring Potential which I split into Cellaribility (5) and Typicity (5). 

I look at Colour and Nose together across all wines. Once satisfied that these two elements have been described for each wine I take a look at viscosity by doing the traditional swirl - I may backtrack to the nose at this point to see if any of the previous results have changed. Swirling has also told me some of what to expect of the first sip directing me to concentrate on texture, depth and body before Flavour & Finish register completely. Flavour & Finish are treated together as an element if the element itself isn’t complete - for instance, if the 'element' is Clover Honey, isn’t there an implied smoothness, a body or depth, and recognizable base flavour? ... and No, I don't do the 'sloshing in the mouth' trick. Just the manner in which I was brought up - not to make rude noises at the table. If 'aeration ' is needed I look for an aerator.

Finish

Lastly, and the least tangible, is Typicity, ie. does each wine carry elements true to a blend or grape or is there an unexpected element present? First a guess at the grape type or blend is visualized. This mental exercise often hooks into less obvious traits of the wine itself adding some complexity, or part of the vineyard practises or winemaker’s craft. Or it may be part of a chemist’s antidote for some oversight along the winemaking process. I use only 5 points for Typicity so I can’t go too far off the path. 



I admit it's methodical but this is a mental exercise of mapping tasting elements into numbers and there's not much of the structure evident that would turn a Tasting into a rigorous number crunch. Put down your key descriptors, adjust as needed within the System, add them up and a rating falls out. 

‘Value’ comes easily. Prices are ’announced’ after everyone has their say and Value follows, if needed, as a quick plot using a set of curves introduced previously in this Blog.

And now for the tastings:


.... the 5 Chardonnays are also summarized in the blog entry, March 2012 Wines.

PS. Beppi's article published March 20th in the G&M  makes a good read on the subject of  "Why wine reviews are irrelevant for most drinkers" as well as another article from last year on "Why can't wine critics choke down their biases?". 


RESULTS:

• Anoro Chardonnay 2009, 90-1  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, #183855  $22.40 
  
• *Cave Spring ‘Dolomite’ Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 89-1  --  O, Jordan, Ontario, #Winery  $17.95
• Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay 2009,  87  --  V, Willamette Valley, Oregon, #273334  $34.95
• Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2009, 86  --  V, Burgundy, France, #272005  $34.95
• Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  82 --  V, Fenwick, Ontario, #271841  $34.95

(V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value)
 
TASTINGS:

CAVE SPRING ‘DOLOMITE’ CHARDONNAY 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Jordan, Ontario, 11.5% D, #Winery  $17.95  (Tasted March 18, 2012)

My notes:  Dining at the Solara Bistro in Clarkson we ordered this for our entrée white and enjoyed the pairing. Not on Cave Spring’s website nor the LCBO’s but can be ordered from the winery. A light straw colour and a nicely scented floral nose fronts a lacy rim that recedes slowly leaving scant trace on the glass. A bright sharpness, extra dry on the tongue with meagre butter altho’ adding some roundness to flavours of pithy lemon. An OK sipper looking for hors d’oeuvres. The finish rides a dry chalk seam right to the end. A tart and dry white needing an accompaniment of Asian foods or salmon steak to be complete. *The Solara wine picked  for its touch of floral while ability to complement a variety of appetizers.  89

BACHELDER NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Fenwick, Ontario, 13.0% XD, #271841  $34.95  (Tasted March 18, 2012)

My notes: One of three chardonnays produced by Thomas Bachelder illustrating 3 terroirs, this one not that specific including multiple Niagara Peninsula benches.  A clear lemon juice hue with cool lemon edge to a citrus nose and possible the ‘Niagara touch’ of blossom. The film sticks then slowly recedes as an even edge of tears and lace slips downward. The first sip is extra dry, sharply acidic with lemon most prominent given the mild flavour and finishing very dry, almost chalky.  Like biting on a lemon wedge and, I’d say, not a lone sipper. Have with buttered crustaceans pieces or with oysters on half shell. Rated as a meal white.  82
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BACHELDER BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2009, Burgundy, France, 13.0% XD, #272005  $34.95 (Tasted March 18, 2012)

My notes: One of three chardonnays produced by Thomas Bachelder illustrating 3 terroirs, this one from Burgundy. A light butterscotch touch to the muted citrus nose has some interest as a sipper. A firm lacy film leaves long tears on a fragmented and bubble layered glass. The first sip leaves an extra dry layer with some warmth, a grassy pear apple flavour then a tang that quickly builds ending noticeable silky. Nose and flavour fall just short as a sipper… a flexible white to pair with subdued sauces and seafood dippers.  86

BACHELDER OREGON CHARDONNAY 2009, Willamette Valley, 13.0% XD, #273334  $34.95 (Tasted March 18, 2012)

My notes: One of three chardonnays produced by Thomas Bachelder illustrating 3 terroirs, this one from Oregon. Initially withheld from release due to a high level of natural sediment.  A light straw colour with a noticeable lemon, grapefruit, clean caramel scent including a slight sting.  A swirl sticks firmly accumulating many tears left to drop very slowly. The first sip stings while chalk dries the palate and a curious grassy flavour takes prominence over a long finish ending without a suggestion of sweetness.  A sipper if you don’t mind extra dry, meagre fruit and toward a clay finish. Try with creamy sauces and a variety of seafood.  87  

ANORO CHARDONNAY 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.2% XD, #183855  $22.40  (Tasted March 18, 2012)

A Vintages release on November 27, 2010 rated 92 by Jay Miller (August 2009).  My notes: A tad darker mid straw than the others with a spicy almond leaning toward a cool butter aroma and a film that sticks then drops a few slow tears before receding as fragments. Smooth, sharply acidic and dry followed by muted pear and lemon flavours combined in a long, warm, tangy and toasty finish. An unusual sipper with a nicely balanced profile - but not for me.  I’d recommend this as a white to pair with roast chicken to grilled Kingfish … or if Japanese fare is going have with sushi or a Bento Box of Tempura shrimp and vegetable pieces. Would cellar well short term.  90

March 2012 Wines: 20 Tasted of 20

Carmenère

Chardonnay

Some of these wines, originally listed in February, were moved to this month. The two intervening blogs explain why. Now it’s time to get back to tastings.

I’ve scheduled a blind tasting of five Chardonnays in the middle of March. Why not buy a few, try one or several and match your notes with mine? I'd appreciate any feedback. The Blind Tasting can be viewed at 5 Chardonnays.

For these Chardonnays I’ll be looking for two things: a dolomite terroir and value. Only one of the five I've tasted previously, at a local Bistro, so will be curious if it can be singled out and where it places overall. The price spread should be sufficient to distinguish these wines - how will they relate in value? 

Four wines are from Beppi Crosariol’s Decanter column of March 9, 2012.  I often use Beppi’s tastings (BCxx) as, except for a few wine regions, a levelset for my own and... a colourful wine-packed glossy, My Italy, from the LCBO arrived with our G&M. This prompted four wine selections and matching recipes by David Rocco - we love fresh pizzas/pastas.

This is the second month for Vintages' Wines of the Month to be featured in Strictlytasting. Last month‘s showed good value so I thought I'd extend my focus on these Vintages recommendations?

Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, and sparkles:

• Errazuriz Don Maximiano Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 91a-2  --  V, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, #230364 $19.95 
• (WOM) Hess Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 91-2  --  V,  Mendocino County, California, #025080 $24.95
• Ascheri Barbera d’Alba DOC 2008, 90-2  --  G, Piemonte, Italy, #219790 $13.60
• (WOM) Domaine Thunevin-Calvet Cuvée Constance 2008, 90-2  --  V,  Midi, France, #168690 $18.95
• KULT Terre de Chieti IGT, 87a-1  --  G, Tollo, Italy, #230805 $9.95 
• Casa Planeta Syrah 2010, 87a-1  -- G, Sicily, Italy, #219857  $11.95 
• J.P. Chenet Premier de Cuvée Reserve Merlot-Cabernet 2010, 84a  --  G, Pays d’Oc, France, #621995  $11.95 
  
• Coppi Peucetico Primitivo 2006,  NR  --  V, Puglia, Italy, #724674 $13.95

• Cave Spring Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench,  92-2  --  O,  Jordan, Ontario,  #Winery   $17.95
• (BT) Anoro Chardonnay 2009,  90-1  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, #183855 $22.40
• (BT) Cave Spring 'Dolomite' Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 89-1  --  O, Jordan, Ontario,  #Winery   $17.95 
• Frescobaldi Albizzia Chardonnay Toscana 2010, 88-2  --  G, Tuscany, Italy, #266585 $11.95*
• Sartori de Verona Marani Bianco 2009, (BC88) 88a-1  --  V, Veronese, Italy, #265405 $16.95
• (BT) Bachelder Oregon 'Willamette Valley' Chardonnay 2009,  87  --  V, Carlson, Oregon, #273334 $34.95
• (BT) Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2009,  86  --  V, Burgundy, France, #272005 $34.95  
• Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2011, 85  --  G, Marlborough, New Zealand, #426601 $15.95
• Cave Spring 'Dolomite' Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 83  -- O, Jordan, Ontario, #Winery   $16.95 
• (BT) Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  82  --  V, Fenwick, Ontario, #271841 $34.95 
• Crush Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009, 77 --  G, South-West Australia, #215673 $14.55 
• Rosewood Natalie`s Sussreserve Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, NR  --  V,  Beamsville, Ontario, #258806 $14.95

(WOM - Wine of the Month, V - Vintages, G - General, O - Other, r-v  - Rating-Value, a - aerated, NR - Not Rated, BT - Blind Tasting)

TASTINGS:

WINES OF  THE MONTH  for April 2012 - Both released by Vintages on March 3, 2012
 
(WOM)HESS SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Mendocino County, California, 13.5% D, #025080 $24.95  (Tasted March 30 2012)  CS 

Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012. “Winemaker Dave Guffy's standards and styling make [Hess Select] a strong brand. The new Cab, off vineyards in (42%) Mendocino County, (40%) Lake County and (18%) Napa County, is stylish and varietally correct. The fruit is black currant up front, followed by black plums, cherries, raspberry and vanilla. Tannins are chalky and acidity provides structure... ”  My notes:  The film sticks to the glass unbroken then slowly gives up tears as well as a lacework pattern. A dark cherry colour, a drying layer of tannin and flavours of woody blackberry with a black currant core makes a reserved impact on the palate.  Full-bodied with a hesitant nose needing time to build and a rich flavour profile to partner prime rib, T-bone, grilled ribs or lamb roast. Cellaring another four years may be pushing but drinking well now. 91
(WOM)DOMAINE THUNEVIN-CALVET CUVÉE CONSTANCE 2008, Midi, France, 15.0% XD, #168690 $18.95  (Tasted March 28, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012. “Thunevin-Calvet's tankraised Grenache-Carignan 2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Constance—all from Maury and all grown on schist—displays pungent struck-flint and peat overtones, along with cocoa powder…” Rated 90 by David Schildknecht, www.erobertparker.com (June 2011)  My notes:    Pours as a granite tinged ruby, dense in the glass with aromas of ripe cherries, berries and an earthy structure. The film is firm with a solid rim slowly shedding tears. Silky with a tang and drying to the palate. A slight lacquer brightens the berries in the flavour with some red currant for lightness and a tart follow-through for a long warm finish. Not as hot as expected but warm moderated by the fullness of earthy dark fruit.  Cellaring for a few more years is likely before decline.  Have with rack of lamb, beef stew or crockpot of vegetables and lamb shank. 90
ERRAZURIZ DON MAXIMIANO SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Aconcagua Valley, Chile,  14.0% XD,  #203364   $19.95  (Tasted March 22, 2012)  CS



Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012. Rated 90 by Michael Schachner, Wine Enthusiast (December, 2010) .  My notes:  Not aerated:  This has an intense red currant edged blackberry aroma, fruity and spice edged. The colour is an ebony hued ruby and a swirl leaves a solid rim that quickly sheds slow moving tears. The first sip penetrates with woody spice, more than mellow acid and enough heat to leave a dry palate with dark fruit remnants long after the sip. Full-bodied with such a strong impression a plate of grilled steak, Moroccan Flank steak or bbq’d ribs would make an equal complement. A slow sipper if full & hot is preferred - no concession given with this red. Cellaring several years might shift rawness in right direction but don’t think so - save for your cigar chewing crowd. 89  Aerated:  The nose is intense but less in-your-face and with luscious dark berry aromas. The film starts from a lacy rim followed by long slow tears and the first sip has a delayed bite with heavy fine tannins lasting forever and intense blackberry flavours tainted by unsweetened chocolate. An intrusive sipper but now with less raw intensity. 91   


ROSEWOOD NATALIE'S SÜSSRESERVE RIESLING 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 11.5% MD, #258806  $14.95  (Tasted March 15)  CS
 
Released by Vintages on January 21, 2012.  My notes:  Not Rated: A pale straw with a curious nose of fish and pear. Silky textured on the first sip with balanced sweet and sour fruit. Finishes dry with some oil on the lips and a noticeable taint similar to skin from a grilled salmon filet - cork had same odour.  Not a sipper - if you persist complement with mild seafood or an Asian buffet.

CAVE SPRING ‘DOLOMITE’ RIESLING 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Jordan, Ontario, 11.5% D, #Winery $16.95 (Tasted March 30, 2012)  Winery


My notes: The 2007 rated 92 (July 18, 2011) was thoroughly enjoyed while staying at the Inn on the Twenty in 2011. The taste of dolomite was pleasingly evident - I’ll look for it specifically. The colour of the 2010 is a light straw and a delicately tart melon aroma needs time to develop in the glass - not too evident.  Bright acid, some roundness and soft flavours become dominant from the first sip although dolomite isn’t as pronounced as in 2007 but showing at the end of a long finish. Appealing as a sole sipper and a complement for lightly seasoned seafood or buffet fare - went well with grilled scallops and a cheesy pasta. A drink now.  83 


CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED GEWURZTRAMINER 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench, Jordan, Ontario, 11.0% D, #Winery $17.95 (Tasted March 27, 2012)  Winery
.
My notes:  A crisp lemon yellow with aromas of honey and lemon tea… interesting and delectable. The film sticks then recedes slowly and evenly. Medium-bodied with a tang mellowed by noticeable sweetness, flavours of lemon tinged with tangerine and an aftertaste having delicate staying power. A great starter sipper and companion for a vegetarian buffet or tea sandwiches: egg salad, cucumber and cream cheese, etc. Pair with tempura vegetables and sushi. Cellar or sip now. 92

CAVE SPRING ‘DOLOMITE’ CHARDONNAY 2010 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Jordan, Ontario, 11.0% D, #Winery $17.95 (Tasted March 18, 2012)  Winery

My notes:  Dining at the Solara Bistro in Clarkson we order this for our entrée white. We enjoyed the pairing. Not on the website nor the LCBO but can be ordered at the winery.  89

FRESCOBALDI ALBIZZIA CHARDONNAY TOSCANA 2010, Tuscany, Italy, 12.0% D, #266585  $11.95*  (Tasted March 28, 2012)   CS

A General release and a white from Marchesi De Frescobaldi reduced a *loonie until April 1, 2012.  My notes: A bright mid golden with aromas of spicy melon, sharp on the nose. A swirl leaves a firm lacy rimmed film shedding slow tears and ending with fragments on the glass. Silky with a sharp acid seam and spicy melon flavours slowly declining to a tangy dry finish. This was great with lemon and garlic spaghettini with grilled scallops. Keep several on hand for an impromptu Italian pasta dish or for casual cleansing with a seafood buffet. 88




BACHELDER NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Fenwick, Ontario, 13.0% XD, #271841  $34.95  (Tasted March 18, 2012)  CS

 
 A Vintages wine released on February 18, 2012. Konrad Ejbich, on CBC Radio monthly, picks Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2009 as his wine of the month.  My notes: One of three chardonnays (Oregon, Niagara, Bourgogne) produced by Thomas Bachelder illustrating 3 terroirs, this one possibly a blend of Niagara terroirs. See if you can taste the Dolomite limestone. 82


BACHELDER BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2009, Burgundy, France, 13.0% XD, #272005  $34.95  (Tasted March 18, 2012)  CS


A Vintages wine released on February 18, 2012. My notes: It's difficult to say where the grapes specifically came from in this case. The website says 'the vineyards stretching from Nuits-St. Georges in the north, through Beaune heading south to Puligny-Montrachet'. 86

BACHELDER OREGON CHARDONNAY 'WILLAMETTE VALLEY' 2009, Carlton, Oregon,  13.0% XD, #273334  $34.95  (Tasted March 18, 2012)   CS

A Vintages wine released on February 18, 2012.  My notes: Initially held back resulting from a customer complaint of immpurities is now cleared. Some harmless, natural tartrate crystals may occur in some bottles. This release is to illustrate the terroir of Lemelson Vineyards, 'a state-of-the-art gravity facility, and 60 hectares of organic vineyards that are amongst the most meticulously-kept vineyards in the entire Willamette Valley'. 87
.
ANORO CHARDONNAY 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.2% XD, #183855  $22.40  (Tasted March 18, 2012)  CS

A Vintages release on November 27, 2010 rated 92 by Jay Miller (August 2009).  My notes:  Unfiltered.  Not much information on the website however rated highly by a number of tasters.  90



CASA PLANETA SYRAH 2010 IGT, Sicily, Italy, 13.0% D, #219857  $11.95  (Tasted March 26, 2012)  CS

Salsa Bolognese & Gnocchi

My notes:  Not aerated:  A mid ruby with a see through clarity and a scent of delicate spice on floral white cherry are the first attractions. The film is thin with a fine laciness at the rim evaporating without only minor traces - a tilt brings fast flowing tears. The first sip is dry, a lightish-body, a touch of oil and moderate flavours of tart apple and woody raspberry. The oil lasts through a moderate finish with declining spice and woody berry ending on a smooth note.  An interesting sipper and could cellar a year or two. 85  Aerated:  The nose is a much muted scent of the former self, ie. not aerated. The same dryness on first sip with a delicate spice and more wood, but softer, on the berries. Silky smooth with less sense of ’oil’ now more integrated with other textures for a balanced sipper. Should be great with a range of meaty pastas and pizzas. Paired with David Rocco’s Salsa Bolognese, mine with gnocchi - great!  and my BH with egg noodles - super!  87 
J.P. CHENET PREMIER DE CUVÉE MERLOT CABERNET 2010, Pays d’Oc, France,  13.0% D,  #621995  $11.95  (Tasted March 14, 2012)  CS

My notes:  Not aerated: A purple colour with an earthy fragrance of ripe black cherries edged with a tight spice. The film fragments easily sliding quickly into lacy islands. The first sip quickly forms a parchment dry flavourful coating with a raw acid bite, some lasting cherry remnants and crushed cherry pits. Pair with anything grilled or stewed, beef or lamb, savoury to spice rubbed. The texture has some rough bramble which doesn’t air out - from young vines and an unselective harvest? 82  Aerated: The texture is smoother, a better match with dry fruit flavours and noticeable herbal mix. More appealing as a sipper and a more polite meal partner but not substantially improved. A workhorse with picnic fare  -  could smooth out in a few years.  84 


KULT TERRE DI CHIETI 2008 IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, 13.5% D, #230805   $9.95  (Tasted March 23, 2012)  CS
My notes: Reduced a loonie until April 1, 2012. Not aerated:  Shows a granite hued ruby, opaque in the glass and leaves a firm film gradually shedding slow tears. A slight jammy aroma to an earthy black  plum and berry scent edged with pepper.  Very smooth, bright on the tongue and showing velvet tannins quickly shifting to oil lasting a swallow then flavours turn a tad brambly. Dry except for a suspicion of natural fruit sugar.  For the price an interesting full-bodied sipper. Should go well with meaty pastas - finish could be tiring without food. 84  Aerated:  Smooth with a polite tang and soft tannins edging the earthy black plum and blackberry. Less pepper on the nose makes this more appealing as an economical sipper and the tasty finish gives this quaff appeal. Have with bbq’d ribs, grilled T-bone, Barbarian rubbed sirloin. A House red for a soccer crowd.  87
COPPI PEUCETICO PRIMITIVO 2006, Puglia, Italy, 13.5% XD, #724674  $13.95  (Tasted March 20, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on February 18, 2012.  My notes:  Not aerated:  A dense ruby with a solid rim that flows columns of slow tears.  A heavy aroma of ripe berries pressed in the noonday sun with soft mocha and mild tannins to envelop the palate. An even tartness brightens what could be a berry bowl extravaganza gone native. Full-bodied, unctuous sweet and a bright sting constantly saturate the palate along with jammy dark fruit. A taste I could not acquire but if you prefer full and jammy this could be yours. Could cellaring ten years smooth some roughness and change ‘overly unctuous’ into ‘mellow and complex’? Perhaps.  Aerated:   Aeration softens some acid bringing out more dark fruit but overall cannot change the style. If purchased I recommend aerating and trying for your guests before serving.  NR  


VILLA MARIA PRIVATE BIN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, Marlborough, New Zealand, 13.0% D, #426601  (Tasted March 15, 2012)  CS
My notes:  A classic kiwi Sauvignon Blanc with intense, unripe gooseberry on the nose. The colour is a pale straw and a swirl leaves a lacy film that slowly fragments into shrinking islands. Ripe fruit coasts on a smooth layer of tart and sweet making this an unctuous sipper finishing with the flavour blend and dry grassy textures.  For kiwi aficionados or to pair with slightly sweet Asian fare or a sushi tray. Doesn’t have the finesse or complexity of a Cloudy Bay - a commercial white.  85    ASCHERI BARBERA D'ALBA 2008,  Piedmonte, Italy, 13.5% D, #219790   $13.60  (Tasted March 15, 2012)  CS

A General listing.  My notes:  Not aerated:  A deep ruby with a film that sticks then recedes first as slow tears then gradual lacy islands. A scent of fruit, near jam, stains on moist mahogany feeds an expectation of rich berries in the first sip. Velvety smooth with a penetrating warmth and tangy fur wraps the palate. Dark fruit on a cedar seam adds the unexpected making this an interesting full-bodied sipper - not a fruity as the nose would indicate. An old world balance of process and fruit to pair with rack of lamb or grilled beef, Italian meatballs with spaghettini. This should cellar well for up to 5 years. 90  Aerated:  The nose needs a short while to develop in the glass after aerating then is a softer version of the previous. Full-bodied with a milder flavour, same fur and smoothness, an interesting texture, dense black fruit with an oldworld balance and extra dry finish. A more polite sipper with an equal pairing spectrum. My preference is aerating.  89

  SARTORI DI VERONA MARANI BIANCO 2009, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% D, #265405  $16.95  (Tasted March 14, 2012)  CS

Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012. Made from partially-dried Garganega grapes with the drying process adding to the intensity of the aromas and flavours.    My notes: Not aerated:  The colour is a mid gold, clear and bright on the glass with a sharp tang to apple and pear each adding their fruit to a convincing nose. A swirl forms a firm film changing quickly to a lacy rim then shrinking to islands and drops. A tangy first sip dries the palate extending to the mid throat for a long smooth finish. Flavours are unusual and interesting… a seafood or chicken white. May not appeal to all as a sipper. Have with scallops seared on a garlic and butter skillet accompanied by cheese gnocchi. Keep a year or two or drink now. 85  Aerated: A milder tang on the nose with the same round appeal that invites the first sip. A focussed tang carried by a blend of apple and muted pear and long finish with a dry edged persistence. I prefer aeration with only a subtle softness being difference.  88




CRUSH SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON 2009, South-West Australia, 13.1% D, #215673  $14.55  (Tasted March 25, 2012)  CS


A General listing from Barwick wines.  My notes: A pale straw colour with an unripe gooseberry aspect to the nose for a prominently acrid sauvignon blanc blend. The film is solid forming a solid rim that declines slowly. The first sip bites the buds, it’s dry, medium-bodied, has a smoothness carrying a semblance of fresh gooseberries and muted stagnant pond. The flavours continue on a slow decline ’til the tart dominates a light sweetness. A sipper with a mixed buffet but not solo. Have with seafood but too rough to ignore - I’d skip.  77