December 2010 Wines: 16 Tasted of 16

With the holiday season already started my focus will be on Gift Packs. But first I’ll clean up two projects started but never fully materialized.

One of the latter was a collection of Georges DuBoeuf General listed wines, three are included below. This combined with a collection from the south of France was cut short when I spotted the Angels Gate Gift Pack… I thought ‘Why not do VQA Gift Packs?’. Not those from ’volume’ producers but those from Craft wineries, either Ontario or BC. It’s not likely I’ll get to Niagara or PEC between now and yearend so I’m dependent on the LCBO bringing the product to a nearby Outlet. I wonder if the LCBO has a program to bring Craft seasonal products to some of their outlets or whether a policy of minimum volumes prevent it.

Depending on how they are defined - I‘ve picked 25,000 cases total, all varietals, as the upper capacity - I’d guess there are twenty or so Niagara Craft wineries some of which are ‘virtual‘. How many of these will market seasonal Gift Packs and will have shelf space - rather, aisle space as most boxes form islands in the aisles - is uncertain. My opinion is if you don't go to the market the market will not come to you.

The Angels Gate GP contains four 375mL bottles, 2 reds and 2 whites. This size suits me as most of my wine consumption is for tasting. Preferable to the 50mL in the US (The Tasting Room).  I’d like to see more VQA wines available year round in the 375mL size packed as varied fours or sixes and mixed or single wineries. The closest to selective packages is WinerytoHome, however I didn't see seasonable Gift Packs on their website (1).

I’ll keep my eyes open adding to the Lineup. However, if you come across a Gift Pack to consider I’d be your friend for life or 750mL whichever comes first.
Cheers, Ww

Dec 2nd
I’m striking out on Craft VQA Gift Packs… most in the aisles are ‘boutique’.  Moving ‘ever onward’ … I’ve added a Masi Gift Box, as that‘s been reliable in past years. Others being considered include Tommasi, Concha y Toro, Louis Jadot, Yvon Mau (the Bordeaux Discovery Chest is an interesting mix). These aren‘t VQA and certainly not Craft but well known for consistency. I’m hoping Liberty School and Wyndham will show up one day - and one or two Crafts from Canada…  

(1) A comment about online purchasing: Don't you find that wines advertised online take on the personality of the site, usually the site's Wine Critics. Wines cease to be products of a specific winery and of a winemaker carrying his enthusiasm for his craft?

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, Gift Packs, sparkles and other:

• Zenato Rosso Veneto IGT 2008,  88-2  --  G, Veneto, Italy, #208579 $11.95 
• Hob Nob Pinot Noir 2008, 86-1  --  G, Languedoc, France, #184069 $12.95 
• Georges DuBoeuf Crus du Beaujolais Brouilly,  86 --  G, Romanèche-Thorins, France, #070540 $16.95
• Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinto Noir 2008, 82  --  G, Bourgogne, France, #162073 $18.60
• Les Hautes de Janeil Syrah Grenache 2008,  78  --  G, Languedoc, France, #162214 $12.95 
• Hob Nob Merlot 2008,  78  --  G, Languedoc, France, #184077 $11.95

• Domaine de Vedilhan Viognier 2009, 81  --  G, Languedoc, France, #162081 $13.00   

• Angels Gate VQA Gift Pack (4x375mL)  --  G, Ontario, Canada,  #189969 $34.95

• Angels Gate Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 91-2
• Angels Gate Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89-1
• Angels Gate Cabernet Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89-1
• Angels Gate Riesling 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench,  88-1

• Masi Campofiorin & Masianco w/ Stopper (2x750mL) --  G,  Veneto, Italy, #187948  $34.95

• Masi Campofiorin Rosso Del Veronese 2007 IGT,  88-1 
• Masi Masianco Pinot Grigio & Verduzzo 2009 IGT, 92-3 

• Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Sparkling Shiraz 2008,  88  --  V, Coonawarra, Australia, #053330 $24.95
• Santa Margherita Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore NV,  87-1  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #687582 $17.95
• Villa Sandi Prosecco DOC NV,  81  --  G, Veneto, Italy, #249722 $14.95 

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Value levels, GP - Gift Pack)

TASTINGS:

ANGELS GATE WINERY SELECT VQA GIFT PACK (4X375),  Beamsville (Map it!), Ontario, #189969  $34.95   CS
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An excerpt from the AG website: “To date the total vineyard holdings include approximately 100 acres.  This acreage provides about 40% of our total grape needs.  Grape varieties include: Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Shiraz.  Our first vintage was in 2000 and we yielded a very small production of only 3 wines.  In six short years our production has increased to 14,000 cases featuring 18 different wines.”   My notes: When I searched using the winery name Google locates Angels Gate on Lincoln Road rather than Mountainview Road. Neighbouring wineries, Rosewood Estates and Thirty Bench, are correctly shown and Angels Gate is the larger property just south and west.

• Angels Gate Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 13.0% D  (Tasted December 3, 2010)  The back label says “… vinified using premium fruit and .. aged for 12 months in small French oak barrels. The nose is full of dark berries, chocolate, leather and a hint of smoke…. Warm youthful tannins. The finish is soft and velvety…” My notes: An aroma of dusty cherries, some red some black amid a deep ruby with a see thru brilliance. A thin film showing scalloped edges and fast legs giving way to flavours of red currants and raspberries, light-bodied with a silky texture easily quaffed. The finish combines a light acid, tannins and succulent flavour remnants - nice. An elegant sipper to please an afternoon post-bridge crowd. Have with a ham steak or veal shank and buttered herb pasta. It would be curious to come back to this in three years - suspect more depth. 89

• Angels Gate Cabernet Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  13.0% D  (Tasted December 3, 2010)  The back label says “… a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes from a selection of Niagara vineyards…”  My notes:  Blackcurrant and blackberry politely scented and a sombre hued black cherry skin colour. Long legs run quickly and the first sip has drying tannin, a balanced acid and flavours that follow the scent. A pleasing sipper, somewhat mild but carrying the essence of fruit forward to the palate and the finish. Dry and drying. Suitable to sip any afternoon. Light? A bit… not your thing is you’re into Auz reds. Closer in body and temperament to France but uniquely Ontario, clean and bright, I’d say. Have with T-bone or a tuna steak. Quite versatile.  Cellar a few years but taste yearly - not a lot to develop.  89 

• Angels Gate Riesling 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench,  11.0% D  (Tasted December 8, 2010)  The back label says “… the limestone soils bring forward the minerality and acidity of Riesling. … fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures…”  My notes:  An interesting scent of lemon blossoms and persimmons (I’m reaching!) and a pale blond colour are pluses as a sipper. Very clean first sip with concentrated lime zest to liven the buds and light acids to refresh the palate. This carries through to the finish although fairly short in itself ending with a light, tart, mineral taste. Serve very chilled with fresh oysters or crab cakes. Pair with grilled halibut, scallops or serve with lobster/King crab pieces with clarified butter. Cellaring a year OK, longer perhaps not.  88
  

• Angels Gate Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  13.0% D,  (Tasted December 3, 2010)  The back label says “… fermented in stainless steel tanks at cool temperatures to enhance the varietal character. …”  My notes: The amber tinted bottle inferred a butterscotch aged chard but No.. this is a soft blond, a clean aroma of fresh and spicy lemon pineapple with a firm film receding slowly leaving lacy edging then lots of long legs. Smooth, not quite puckering tart, lemon zest and melon flavours and a long spicy finish all add up to an interesting sipper.  A flexible dinner white for chicken, pheasant, duck, whitefish or salmon, and shellfish. Cellaring for a few years should soften tart and deepen textures - drinking well now.  92 

LES HAUTES DE JANEIL SYRAH GRENACHE 2008, Languedoc. France, 13.0% D, #162214  $12.95  (Tasted December 1, 2010)  CS

A Francis Lurton wine on the General shelves and described anonymously (undated) as "Deep ruby with purple hints; black fruit with touch of smoke aromas; dry, medium body, good core of fruit flavours and medium tannins, drink now or hold 1 - 2 years."  My notes:  This has a firm film running a few tears, slow to start then accumulating. Letting air for twenty minutes is recommended as the nose starts out with a heavy earthy scent needing time to dissipate. The colour is a purple hued ruby, very dense in the glass and the first sip has a velvet texture, a sharpness and full tannins that carry masked black fruit and tobacco flavours. The finish wanes slowly leaving an unusual spice edge to mostly forest floor, liquorice and woody berries. Not a sipper. Pair with heavily flavoured stews or bbq’d beef. Cellaring may settle some of the rudeness but I’d avoid this vintage.  78 

GEORGES DUBOEUF CRUS DU BEAUJOLAIS BROUILLY 2009,  Romanèche-Thorins, France  (Map it!), 12.7% D, #070540  $16.95  (Tasted tbd)  CS.

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Ruby red colour; raspberry & cherry fruit with herbal notes; light- to medium- bodied; soft, round and quaffable. Serve slightly chilled.” My notes: A bright pink edged red cherry in the glass with a firm film and a fresh sweet raspberry cherry jam nose. Smooth, pucker bright, fresh crushed fruit flavours that saturate the palate then carry into the finish with a slight tooth cleaning ending. Light-bodied with full flavours makes this a pleasant patio sipper, slightly chilled. Pair with pan fried breaded tilapia or chicken breast. Some may say ’too jammy’, others will say ‘festive‘. I say ’a light nouveau without the nail polish‘.  86


LOUIS JADOT BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2008, Bourgogne, France, 12.5% D, #162073 $18.60  (Tasted December 15, 2010)  CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Bright pale ruby colour; cherry and red berry aromas with a touch of earthy spice and beetroot; dry, medium body, well balanced with well integrated acidity, red berry flavours and a touch of earth and mushroom on the finish. Serve slightly chilled with roasted duck or chicken, pork, gourmet sausage, well done beef and salmon steaks. ”  My notes: An interesting red currant and cherry aroma tapering off quickly and a colour that is a see-through red cherry. The first taste is unsweetened cherry drop, dry through to a moderate finish with light tannins and acids making this a simple light-bodied sipper. Throw in a few cubes and have as a refresher, i.e. not a meal red - but if you must, have with light fowl, arctic char or bacon wrapped asparagus. A drink now.  82


DOMAINE DE VEDILHAN VIOGNIER 2009, Languedoc, France, 13.0% D, #162081  $13.00  (Tasted December 9, 2010)  CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Clear straw colour; peach, apricot and honeysuckle aromas; medium body, peach and apricot flavours with balanced acidity and a touch of spice in a medium finish.” and the back label “From Paul Boutinot and vineyards in the Narbonne region of southern France. Nose of peaches, apricots and pears…. Intensely concentrate fruit flavours on the palate, with a hint of zestiness… “.  My notes:Starts with the pour as an intense citrus floral settling to an aromatic waft and a pale gold in the glass. The film is firm with a slowly falling even scalloped edge. Very full in the mouth with a buttery texture and a melon citrus flavour that continues full into a long ending with an overdone mouth presence - not a sipper.  Pair with Chinese sweet and sour chicken, grilled scallops, sticky rice and orange sauce, a savoury beef strips and noodles. Serve well chilled. 81


HOB NOB MERLOT 2008, Languedoc, France, 13.0% D, #184077  $11.95  (Tasted December 10, 2010) CS .

A General listing and a Georges DuBoeuf wine. The back label says “Blackcurrant, blackberry, mint and liquorice, soft finish.”  My notes: A smidge of blackcurrant and blackberry in the soft nose along some earthy notes. The colour is a rich brooding ruby and a swirl sees quickly receding scalloped edging with some fast tears. An unusual flavour of black fruit and antiseptic, the latter carrying through to a short finish - airing/decanting for twenty minutes helped. A simple sipper somewhat unappealing - better with finger foods: liver paté on crackers, party sausage or mini pizzas. A drink now.  78
 
HOB NOB PINOT NOIR 2008, Languedoc, France, 13.0% D, #184069  $12.95  (Tasted December 8, 2010)  CS 
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A General listing and a Georges DuBoeuf wine. The back label says  “Black cherry, refined, elegant.”  My notes: The colour of black cherry skins and a delicate scent of spice, cherries and mushroom slow to develop. The film is light with fast legs and scalloped edging that quickly recedes. The smoothness of the first sip leaves a sweet liquorice and red cherry flavouring fading to liquorice then mineral and fine tannins for a moderate finish. Makes for a smooth sipper with interesting highlights but shallow unless regularly refreshed. Pair with liver and onions, veal schnitzel with spatzle or sliced turkey and mixed veggies. A drink now.  86


MASI CAMPOFIORIN & MASIANCO WITH STOPPER (2X750),  Veneto, Italy,  #187948  $34.95  CS

Both wines go through an original Masi process giving each the freshness of newly picked fruit with a full and complex structure.  Includes a Pulltex (View it!) wine pump and stopper - easy to use and worth the investment.

MASI MASIANCO PINOT GRIGIO & VERDUZZO 2009 IGT, 13.0% D, (Tasted December 5, 2010)  A General listing under Product code #620773 and priced $14.95. The label says “… The richness of the perfumes… of [the Pinot Grigio grape] cultivated at Castions de Strada, in the Fruili region, complements the structure of the native Verduzzo grape, deliberately picked slightly over-ripe and matured on plateaux…”  My notes: The Verduzzo grape is given a short drying period, Apassimento, before pressing. This has a golden colour with a slight peach tone and has balance, flavour, a honeyed texture, aroma, depth and lip smacking lusciousness. Full-bodied with the spice of pinot grigio coming out in the nose and flavour yet smooth and deeply structured from the Verduzzo. The finish is long and full of fresh fruit. Have with fish or a cheesy pasta dish.  92

MASI CAMPOFIORIN ROSSO DEL VERONESE 2007 IGT, 13.0% D, (Tasted December 4, 2010)  Product code  #155051 and priced at $17.95 on the General shelves.  The back label says “This wine, called Ripasso [freshly picked grapes are refermented with a percentage of semi-dried grapes of the same type] … since 1964, [this method] combines simplicity and grace combined with power and majesty. It is rich, full-bodied, round and velvety, and has an ageing potential of 10 to 15 years…”  My notes: Nectar Angelorum Hominus I would guess means ‘nectar of man and angel’.  The colour is a garnet hued mid weight ruby and the nose has a warm woody scent of plums and ripe berries. A firm film leaves scalloped edging as it slowly recedes and the first sip is silky with well established tannins, a moderate acid and a mix of forest floor, red currants and berries. The silk and fruit rush then continue evenly waiting for the next sip. A soft full-bodied and polite sipper. Pair with grilled beef strips, shanks of lamb or a crockpot stew. ’Simplicity and grace’ are there - not so much ’power and majesty’.  88

ZENATO ROSSO VENETO IGT 2008, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% D, #208579  $11.95  (Tasted December 7, 2010)  CS
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The back label says “Cuvee of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Corvina Veronese grapes. … A ruby red coloured wine with the typical spicy flavour of the Corvina and hints of red fruit. Extremely soft tannin deriving from the Merlot.”   My notes: A representation of each grape is evenly expressed in this purple tainted ruby red. A firmly layered film with stained long legs is left on the glass. A slightly earthy scent of freshly crushed fruit is on the nose and a silken dry texture coats the mouth with a delicate touch of black fruit. A polite sipper light in fruit but full in depth with soft tannins. Pair with sautéed or grilled red meats, or have with vegetarian pizzas or meaty pizzas not too spicy. May cellar for a year, not likely longer. 88

KATNOOK FOUNDER'S BLOCK SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2008, Coonawara, Australia, 12.5% D, #053330  $24.95  (Tasted December 9, 2010)  CS
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Released by Vintages on November 27, 2010 described by their Panel (April 2010) as “Opaque ruby in the glass; simply laden with full fruit aromas such as plum, cherry, and delicious blackberry with a hint of minty goodness that delivers just that extra touch of something special. Dry, with a creamy mousse and lots of ripe berry fruit on the palate… “.  My Notes: From the Wingara wine group and seldom available in Ontario. The 2004 was cellared in December 2007 and was last tasted in September this year - ‘lip smacking luscious’ with a rating of Ww87 V1. The 2008 is priced $5 higher and has the same blackberry colour with aromas of steely blackberry with a touch of blackcurrant. There’s a deep colour of blackberry as a setting for a profusion of fine to moderate size bubbles - no mousse to speak of. Tiny bubbles stream across the surface to the rim as a sensation of fizz fills the first sip. A flavour of minerals and soft blackberries is muted by a steeliness and a short finish. Less fruit driven than previous vintages. Serve with a buffet table of stuffed mushrooms, bacon bit topped breads or proscuitto wrapped asparagus. A drink now that could keep for a few years.  88

SANTA MARGHERITA BRUT VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE NV, Veneto, Italy (Map it!), 11.5% XD, #687582  $17.95  (Tasted December 7, 2010)  CS
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. A Vintages release on September 4, 2010 rated 4 of 5 by Tony Aspler (Who?) (November 6, 2009) and described as "...pale straw with a lime tint. Nose: minerally, nutty, peach. Taste: light to medium-bodied, dry, bitter almond and citrus flavours."  My notes: A touch of yeast but mostly a citrus zest and mineral nose with a profusion of bubbles to release the aromas then settle quickly. A light blond and a dry tartness in the first few sips that wakens the taste buds. Muted flavours of a white peach and lemon blend flowing to a long mineral finish. An aperitif to have with oysters or for a toast before after a meal. Paired well Swiss Chalet chicken.  87

VILLA SANDI PROSECCO DOC NV, Veneto, Italy, 11.0% D, #249722  $14.95  (Tasted December 11, 2010) CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Clear, pale lemon yellow colour; clean aromas with intense mineral mineral and citrus notes; off-dry, light bodied, with citrus and herbs, with a vigorous mousse.”  My notes: Also available in 375mL at $7.95 as #194191 (CS).  A burst of medium-sized bubbles covering the surface then settling quickly. The nose has a mineral taint to a yeasty aroma and the first sip is dry, starting soft then the acid kicks in with a nice touch of delicate lemon icing. A refreshing sipper, simple, the spritz adding interest with each sip followed by a short finish ending with a smooth mineral coating. Pair with stuffed mushrooms or grilled scallops - has a short interest span by itself. A drink now. 81

Beaujolais Nouveau etc. 2010 Picks: 6 Tasted of 6

Beaujolais Nouveau   … or Vino Novello if you prefer. This started from a read of Wineoftheweeknd wine site.  I didn’t plan to taste nouveau wines this year. Curiosity got the best of me and when dropping by the local Outlet for a Mezzacorona Vino Novello, kind of rolls off the lips in Italian, I picked up the second. Then after reading Gord Stimmell's notes and ratings in his Toronto Star  column I’ve added a few more of the eight released by the LCBO.….  I find it an interesting but, perhaps, a fading tradition.

Gord Stimmell presents LCBO's lineup of this year's Nouveaux in his video below:(video no longer available)



THE LINEUP:

• Mezzacorona Novio 2010 Vino Novello di Teroldego,  89-2  --  G, Trentino, Italy,  #669275  $9.95
• Joseph Drouhin 2010 Beaujolais Villages Nouveau, 88-1  --  V, Beaune, France, #113266 $14.95
• Georges DuBoeuf 2010 Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau, 88-1  --  V,  Romanèche-Thorins, France, #932780 $14.95   
• Georges DuBoeuf 2010 Gamay Nouveau, 87-2  --  G, Ardèche, France, #891846 $8.95 
• Cantina 2010 Novello del Veneto IGT,  86-1  --  G, Negrar, Italy, 12.0% D, #899955 $9.95
• The Fool Reif Estate Gamay Nouveau VQA Niagara River, 83*  --  G, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #220483 $10.95

Not Planned:

• Mommessin 2010 Beaujolais Nouveau, G, France, #897934 $ 13.95
• Catalans 2010 Primeur Syrah Merlot IGP Pays d’Oc, G, Rousillon, France, #220533 $9.95

(G - General Listing, v-r - Value levels, * - see notes)
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Today's the Day, 23rd November 2010, for a blind tasting of Nouveau wines. The Kit shown in the photo was a gift some years ago and has come in handy at certain times when a Blind Tasting happens. I say 'happens' since I seldom plan anything. The last event was #Cabernet Day sponsored by Rick Bakas , at the time of St. Supery Winery in California, now an independent Marketing guru. After his event prompts are seldom needed for my BH and I to cover a few bottles, crack them open and sniff & sip our way through a tasting. 'But' you say, 'where's the sixth?' There's only five letters in 'WINES' so the Joseph Drouhin will come later.  Cheers, Ww

A point made at times is that ratings are meaningless. How can wines of different grapes be compared one with another? My answer is: comparisons are made by individuals and some discrimination must be used in their application. 

If a comparison is badly applied then the individual making the comparison is at fault not the rating system. However, if one can bridge ratings given for different grape types, different wine styles, terroirs, perhaps with qualifications, then a rating comparison makes sense to that individual. Some comparisons however have to be questioned, for instance, standard wines versus Nouveau wines. Nouveau wines are a once a year phenomenon with unusual taste profiles and a 'best before date' of January 2011. The ratings shown in this blog are only relative to other Nouveau wines.

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TASTINGS:
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CANTINA 2010 NOVELLO DEL VENETO IGT, Negrar (Map it!) , Italy, 12.0% D, #899955  $9.95  (Tasted November 23, 2010)  CS
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A General listing not described. The back label says "... a dry red wine with aromas of ripe red fruits. The taste is fresh with flavours of ripe plums, cherries and blackberries."  My notes:  A pink meniscus and a light and clear ruby colour with spicy candy floss aromas, meant for quaffing. A swirl brings a receding film with scalloped edges, reluctant tears. Medium-bodied, smooth with a polite bite and strawberry candy floss flavours including a noticeable sweetness. The finish continues with the flavours adding a dry tannin and minerals reminiscent of ’airplane dope’ but not overly so. A congenial red meant for a convivial time. 86
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MEZZACORONA NOVIO 2010 VINO NOVELLO DI TEROLDEGO IGT, Trentino (Map it!) , Italy, 12.0% D, #669275  $9.95  (Tasted November 23, 2010) CS
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A General listing not described. The back label says "Produced from Teroldego grapes... cultivated in the foothills of the Dolomites. Ruby red, fruity bouquet with hints of ripe berries. ... Serve at 16 - 18C."  My notes: A woody scent when first poured then a delicate plum. There’s a purple hue to a deep ruby giving an elegant glow in the bowl. Medium-bodied with some tears from the film and the first sip is well balanced fruit, soft tannins and acids leaving some dryness on a long cherry finish. Except for the freshness of the fruit one may assume this to be a standard light-bodied red. A pleasant sipper for a mixed crowd with dry crackers - surprisingly this paired well with Mom's Meatloaf .  89
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GEORGES DUBOEUF 2010 BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES NOUVEAU, Romanèche-Thorins (Map it!) , France, #932780  $ 14.95  (Tasted November 23, 2010)  CS
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A Vintages release described on the back label as “Tender, fruity, harmonious, elegant, fresh, delicious are the main qualities of primeurs wines” and by G Stimmell as “Nice cherry berry with hints of vanilla and banana. Very fruity, with hints of complexity.”  My notes: A cardinal red adds brightness to the deep ruby and a cherry/raspberry/tobacco spice fills the bowl given time to develop. There’s some depth to the first sip with well balanced acids, tannins and berries. Bright edged fruit continue through a long chalk dry finish and a detectable almond touch as berries fade. A quaffer on a hot day especially with a few cubes. PS. A bit floral but great with grilled rack of lamb.  88  
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GEORGES DUBOEUF 2010 GAMAY NOUVEAU,  Ardèche (Map it!) , France, 12.0% D,  #891846   $8.95  (Tasted November 23, 2010)  CS

A General listing described on the back label as “supple, fruity, and generously balanced”  and by G Stimmell as “Violets, candied black cherry with hints of cola in a light but tasty style.”      My notes:  A pink edged ruby colour with just noticeable scent of crushed ripe strawberries, a film that easily sheds tears. Firm tannins dry while fresh berries brighten the palate - an interesting sipper. Medium-bodied with some jam and wood remaining as flavours decline. Add a cube and quaff on a hot day with dry crackers.  87   PS. Paired well, in the sense of adding a different flavour, to Veal Cordon Bleu with sweet potatoe and petit pois.

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THE FOOL REIF ESTATE 2010 GAMAY NOUVEAU VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake (Map it!) , Ontario, 13.0% D,  #220483   $ 10.95   (Tasted November 23, 2010)  CS

A General listing described by G Stimmell as “Pale hued, with rose petals, raspberry jam and marishino in a light-weight style.”    My notes:  The colour is a light red cherry and the delicate aroma is of almonds and cherries. A viscous film sheds long tears then recedes evenly. Smooth, red cherry jam with a touch of yeast and leaves a light presence on the palate. In a darkened room could be mistaken for a medium-bodied rosé. Serve chilled with a shrimp ring.  Ww83*  PS. Blending with 50% Casa LaPostolle Carmenère reduced the ’cherry jam’ to a moderate cherry with a taint of red currant. Now fuller and balanced widened its flexibility. When paired with cheddar macaroni and mild Italian sausage was much improved prompting ‘before discarding try blending‘.  86
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JOSEPH DROUHIN 2010 BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES NOUVEAU, Beaune (Map it!) , France, 12.5% D, #113266   $14.95  (Tasted December 1, 2010) CS

A General listing described on the back label as “… reveals the elegance and true expression of the Beaujolais terroir. With its intensity and fresh fruit….”  and described by G Stimmell as “Blueberry, spicy plum and mellow black cherry. Some depth and heft.”  My notes: A slight pungency and a perceptible nose of floral black cherry from a clear, deep raspberry colour with the first sip showing a marzipan tainted red cherry and blueberry flavour, very smooth with a light tannin. The finish is fresh and fruity then fading to a balance of fruit remnants and acid. A welcomed sipper by itself or with a mixed cheese tray, no gorgonzola though. Pair with veal scallopini or crusted chicken legs, was great with Lindt white chocolate balls followed by coffee.  A drink now.  88

The 500 Best-Value Wines 2011: 6 Tasted of 6

This is a brief review of  Rod Phillips'  fourth edition of The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO  for 2011. The book is available in ‘good book stores everywhere’ for the price of a bottle of wine.

I enjoy the author’s writing style, relaxed and concise - no flamboyancy in either the early chapters, written for someone new to wine, or in the tasting notes for each of the wines, 161 of which are new this time around. Lined space is provided below each wine for personal notes making this a handy diary to keep in the glove compartment or purse. Using it regularly encourages one to break the routine of buying the same ole stuff without risking bringing home too much plonk. 

Some statistics:
Of the 500 and excluding Rosés, Sparkling and sweet wines, 103 are rated 4½ - 5 Stars (90+), the system used by the author. Of the 103, sixty-nine are red and thirty-four are white. The majority of top wines are from California (20), Australia (17), Italy (16), France (14), Canada (14) and Chile (11). To bridge to 2010 refer to 500 Best 2010. 

Also of the 103, 17 are rated 5 Stars (94+) with two of these being white, the rest reds. Not surprisingly, most of the top wines were rated highly in the 2010 edition although some had slipped to 4½ Stars. Seven ‘New’ wines made it into the top 17. I suggest that these leading vintners have maintained consistency over successive vintages or have adjusted blends and process to successfully produce quality wines. Seven of the top wines are priced above $20 suggesting that you pay for a highly rated wine. The challenge is to find low priced wines with high quality - that’s where value is. 

With one exception the ratings of 4½ and 5 stars are equivalent to Wine Advocate’s range of 90 to 100. The exception is that a ½ Star, the equivalent of 2 to 3 points, can be added to represent a wine’s value.  The Wine Advocate system leaves it up to the purchaser to determine value so only includes intrinsic parameters of colour, nose, flavour, finish and cellaring potential to be rated.  This could mean that a low-priced wine rated 4½, if considered a good value by the author, may be rated as low as 87 using the Wine Advocate 100 point system. Such a wine although ‘very good quality’ may not be ‘outstanding’ except for your budget. Everyone’s taste can vary from the authors, as my ratings indicate, muting any effect of this minor difference.  

The seven ’New’ 94+ wines are Vintages releases and from well established vintners.  All appear to be locally available with the exception of the Perrin & Fils ‘les Sinards’. Just as well for two reasons: the price of the Perrin is out of my range & one review described it as "truly old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape with complex notes of sheep manure, cow paddies and horse excrement". Simply not my 'cup of tea'.  The vintages shown are at time of purchase.  

Cheers, Ww  


THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, sparkles and other:

• Sterling Vineyards Merlot 2005*, 95-3  --  V, California, #330241 $24.95
• E Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2006*, 92-3  --  V, Rhône, France,  #259721 $16.95
• Mitolo ‘Jester’ Shiraz 2007, 91-2  --  V, Virginia, Australia, #659607 $21.95
• Rodney Strong Pinot Noir 2008, 84  -- V, Sonoma County, California, #954834 $22.95
• (Perrin & Fils ‘les Sinards’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006, Ww  --  V, Rhône, France, #926626 $38.95)

• Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2009,  94-3  --  V, Marlborough, NZ,  #035386 $18.95
• J. Lohr ‘Riverstone’ Chardonnay 2009*,  83  --  V, San Jose, California, #258699 $18.95

(V - Vintages, * - Vintage change, ( ) - dropped)

TASTINGS:

MITOLO JESTER 'McLAREN VALE' SHIRAZ 2007,  Virginia, South Australia, 14.5% D, #659607  $21.95  (Tasted October 19, 2010) CS

A Vintages release on May 19, 2010 rated 91 and described by Jay Miller (August 2008) as "... dark ruby/purple-colored with an alluring perfume of mineral, earth notes, blueberry, black cherry, and blackberry. Smooth-textured, ripe, and intensely flavored, the wine conceals enough structure to evolve for 4-6 years. The finish is lengthy and pure... "  My notes:A deep purple ruby with a spicy blackberry and black currant aroma. Full-bodied as seen by the firm film and long slow legs. The first sip is full of spice warming the throat and filling the senses with black fruit fumes. A sipper with bold acids and firm tannins in sync with the fruit through a long dry tooth cleaning finish. Have with grilled beef or rack of lamb, tomato sauced pepperoni pizza of polish sausage on a bun. Three years cellared and still a few more left. 91


RODNEY STRONG ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2007, Sonoma County, California, 14.4% D, #954834 $24.95 (Tasted April 12, 2009)  CS

A Vintages release on October 11, 2008 and re-released on May 15, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “This silky smooth wine shows why the Russian River Valley is the 'go to' region for quality Pinot Noir in California. Seductive aromas of cherry, plum, cinnamon, and oak spice replay on the medium full-bodied palate. Dry and well-balanced, it's soft and smooth with a peppery finish. If you're not already a Pinot lover, you're about to become one. Try it with grilled salmon or veal tenderloin.” My notes: The 2005 vintage was tasted in Dec 2006 with the comment ‘Not a value - not recommended‘. The 2007 is a rich ruby with a strawberry glint and aroma of California strawberries, somewhat grassy. The film is firm with slow long legs and the first sip is silky smooth, tart with dregs of strawberry, red currant and a touch of rhubarb. Perhaps not a fruit bomb but there’s enough of everything in balance for an adequate sipper. It was light with bbq’d rack of lamb but OK. Should be better with planked salmon or grilled tuna. At peak now. 84.

STERLING VINEYARDS MERLOT 2005, California, USA, 13.5% D, #330241   $24.95  (Tasted November 19, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “This classic Napa Merlot is rich and succulent with ripe blackberry and sweet cherry aromas. Dry and silky smooth, this medium-bodied Merlot has a ripe, juicy, fruity core that is accented by spice and toasty oak characters leading to a long, full-flavoured finish. Try it with roast chicken and herbed stuffing, or grilled tuna steaks.”  My notes: A Ravenswood label.  A strong scent of spicy blackberries on pouring and a deep ruby colour. The film is firm with many long slow legs, a strong acidity and firm tannins are the platform for intense spicy berries. Flavours dissipate slowly leaving a steely edge of dry fruit - I‘d guess from old vines. Bright and tannic: quaffing increases overall intensity and is both interesting and enjoyable if somewhat bold and unexpected for a Merlot. Have with grilled red beef, steaks, ribs, strips or full flavoured stews. Cellaring several years may mellow and bring forward potential depth to texture and flavours. 95
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E. GUIGAL CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2006, Rhône, France, 13.0% XD, #259721  $16.95  (Tasted November 14, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “A fine Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre blend featuring aromas of plum, dried herbs, torrefaction, black raspberry and pepper. Dry and fresh, with fruit coming through nicely in the centre. Medium bodied with a long, well-structured finale. Match it to grilled or barbecued tamari steaks… “ My notes: The 2003 vintage was rated 83 in February 2008 and not tried since. A subtle nose of stewed cherries against a background of garnet tinged ruby. Velvety with tang and tannins before evenly blended flavours of cherries, blackberry and mild pepper. A super sipper half way to the new world with soft allure, dryness of the finish leaves some chalk with a red currant brightness. Have with veal dishes, a beef crockpot or Mongolian beef strips. Might cellar a few more years but drinking well now.  92

PERRIN & FILS 'LES SINARDS' CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007, Rhône, France, 14.0% XD, #926626  $38.95  (Tasted tbd)  CS

A Vintages release on September 4, 2010 rated 92 and described by Robert Parker (Oct. 2009) as “Dense ruby, with liquorice, sweet cherry, and lavender notes, this full-bodied, admirably concentrated wine can be drunk now or over the next 10-12 years.”  My notes:  This is also available in half size (#005975 @ $19.95).  (Dropped from Tastings)

J. LOHR RIVERSTONE CHARDONNAY 2009, San Jose, California, 13.5% D, #258699   $18.95  (Tasted November 21, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “Bright medium-yellow Chardonnay with an enticing toasty/fruity nose (particularly apricot, apple and cranberry). Dry and quite clean with pretty oak tones surrounding the fruit. Medium-full bodied with a medium finish. An ideal Chardonnay for grilled herbed chicken or smoky prawns with mango salsa.”  My notes: The 2007 vintage was tasted in November 2009 and rated 83 saying ‘nicely rounded with a touch of butterscotch … ‘.  The colour of the 2009 is a vivid gold, not deep but bright in the bowl. The nose is almost perceptible with butterscotch and lemon tones - needs time to develop - and the first sip has lemon drop flavours, a balanced tang and soft butter flavour & feel leading into mostly lemon and butter fading quickly to a straw edged finish. Quaffing fills the mouth with rounded textures and lemon, pleasing on the palate - less than quaffing, not so much. Have with PC airy hors d’oeuvres, crab cakes, stuffed mushrooms or pairing with salmon filets would be suitable.  83

KIM CRAWFORD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #035386  $18.95  (Tasted tbd)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “… The 2007 and 2008 vintages each received 91 points from Wine Spectator! This lively wine exhibits aromas such as gooseberry, passion fruit, grass, nettle, mineral, and citrus. Tantalizing with steamed mussels or warm chicken salad.”  My notes: Now part of the Constellation Corporation it’s difficult to know the level of Kim Crawford’s continued involvement. With the string of Golds on the label the marketing team is 'corporate' rather than 'artisan'.  The crisp aroma of gooseberries and floral lemon wafts pleasing the nasal nodes. A golden blond brightens the glass for the first silky sip having enough biting acidity to refresh the buds - an appealing sipper for its refreshing fruitiness and hard to avoid quaffing. Lemon, a touch of grapefruit pulp and subtle gooseberry fruit makes for pairing flexibility: fresh oysters, crab pieces, fishes or white fowl - I plan to pair it with a coconut lime chicken stew. Cellaring up to five years is possible - try a year at a time. 94

November 2010 Wines: 19 Tasted of 19

The wine selections for November are listed below.  Some are carry overs from October.

The clouds hang to the east threatening showers - not yet cold enough for snow but every day leaves are quickly dropping and the air is cooler.   Brrrr, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, sparkles and other:

• Hickinbotham ‘Clarendon’ Shiraz/Cabernet 2008, 90-2 Cellar   --  V,  McLaren Vale, South Australia, #159632 $15.95
• Casa LaPostolle Carmenère 2008, 89-2  --  G, Rapel Valley, Chile, #168740 $15.95
• C. J. Pask Gimblett Road Syrah 2007, 89-1   --  V, Hawkes Bay, NZ, #163998 $18.95 
• Alamos Malbec 2009,  88-1  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, GP#601252  $15.95*
• Tilia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008,  87-1  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #163428 $12.95
• Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2009,  84  --  V, Mendoza, Argentina, GP#601252, $13.95 (see #467944 )
• Casa LaPostolle Cabernet Sauvignon 2008,  83  --  G, Rapel Valley, Chile, #168732 $15.95 
• Casa LaPostolle Merlot 2008, 83  --  V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #405712 $16.95
• Tilia Malbec 2009,  83  --  G, Mendoza, Argentina, #160945 $13.00  

• Fontanafredda Gavi ‘Del Commune di Gavi' 2009, 91-2  --  V, Piedmont, Italy, #075440   $15.95 
• Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  89-1  --  V, Vineland, Ontario, #089029 $17.95 
• Gray Monk Gewurztraminer 2008 VQA Okanagan Valley, 89-1  --  V, Okanagan, BC, #321588  $18.95
• Veramonte Reserva Chardonnay 2008, 88-1  --  V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #494443 $14.95
• Tilia Torrontes 2009,  84  --  G, Salta, Argentina, #186403 $12.95 
• Inniskillin 'Winemaker's Series' Barrel Aged Pinot Gris 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84  --  G, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #177766 $19.95  
• Château de Quincay Sélection Tradition Sauvignon 2009, 83  --  V, Loire, France, #066183  $13.95 
• Rosewood Estates Natalie's Sussreserve Riesling 2008 VQA Creek Shores, 82  --  V, Beamsville, Ontario, #164483 $18.00 
• McWilliams Hanwood Chardonnay 2008,  78  --  G, New South Wales, Australia, #557934 $13.05* 
• Barefoot Pinot Grigio NV,  77  --  G, California, USA, #053983  $9.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Value levels, GP - Gift Pack)

TASTINGS:


ALAMOS MALBEC 2009 & CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 GIFT PACK, Mendoza, Argentina, #601252  $29.95*  CS

A Gift Pack containing a bottle of Malbec and one of Cabernet Sauvignon from Catena released by Vintages on October 30, 2010 in time for the holidays - described anonymously (undated) as “With Argentine Malbec being one of the fastest growing wine styles today, this 2-pack of deep and succulent reds is a 'can't miss' gift for the wine lover on your list.”  My notes: The Alamos Pinot Noir 2006, 2007 and their Chardonnay were tasted with excellent results (88). The 2007 Viognier tasted in February 2009 rated 75. I suspect this red Pack will have good value. We‘ll see…. My conclusion is a 'Marginal Value' - and not something I would gift to a fellow wine drinker. 

• ALAMOS MALBEC 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D, $15.95*  (Tasted November 11, 2010)

My notes:  The 2006 and 2007 were tasted with good results (90, 87 resp.) the main difference was in ‘character’. The 2008 had slipped to Ww84. The 2009 has a fragrance of a cherry stained basket sitting in the sun, a tad woody, a tad floral and the colour is a deep ruby. A firm film with fast tears shows a lighter side of full-body. There is a sharpness to a burst of brambly blackberry and red currant that fill the mouth then fade to a dry mineral end. Changes peak and flow rapidly from sip to swallow then linger until the next sip. Great with a rare rib eye steak covered lightly with Barbarian rub and should with most bbq’d red meats. A drink now up to two years.  88

• ALAMOS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% D, $13.95*  (Tasted November 17, 2010)  CS

My notes:  The 2007 was rated 87-1 and the 2006 was an 82 - seems to fluctuate in value at the ‘then‘ $13.95.  Compare with #467944.  There’s a characteristic purple tinge to the ruby and aromas, that take time to develop, of light spicy black currants combined with blackberries. A few slow legs droop from a slowly receding film. Velvet with a touch of oil on the lips, flavours of blackberry and black olive lead to a smooth, somewhat brambly with a touch of oil, ending. Some nibbles are needed to cover the woody edge as the flavours trail. Pair with grilled steaks or beef tenderloin although this is a mild Cabernet Sauvignon - go easy on the rub. A drink now.  84

CASA LAPOSTOLLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CARMENÈRE and MERLOT

Not a Gift Pack but three first tier reds from a well known French lineage. Beppi Crosariol  interviewed Alexandra Marnier LaPostolle in his column, Decanter, of November 3rd instigating this purchase. Hopefully there’s still a dedication to crafting natural value for this label. Rated Ww72, the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc didn't impress but this was back in 2007.  

• CASA LAPOSTOLLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Rapel Valley, Chile, 14.5% D, #168732  $15.95  (Tasted November 12, 2010)  CS

A General listing. The back label says "... partially aged 10 months in small French oak barrels, and has aromas and flavours of red currant, strawberry and blackberry. The texture is supple and round. ... up to 10 years."   My notes: This has a rich deep scarlet tinged ruby and a faint, warm, spicy aroma of blackberries and slight menthol. The striking tang wakens the buds quickly, the bright edged red currants and blackberries follow through with a pleasing taste, neither jammy or overdone. The finish takes away half of the fruit leaving the smooth texture and taste of mineral tinged muted blackberry and forest floor - not pleasing as a lone sipper.  Have with savoury nibbles or pair with rack of lamb, grilled steaks, ie. red meats not overly seasoned. A drink now - not much to cellar.  83

• CASA LAPOSTOLLE CARMENÈRE 2008, Rapel Valley, Chile, 14.5%  D, #168740  $15.95  (Tasted November 22, 2010)  CS

A General listing. The back label says "... deep coloured, full of flavours with spicy and expressive aromas. A smooth and velvety texture to enjoy with red meats and stews."  My notes:  An intense aroma of spicy red currant, blackberries, a touch of menthol, a deep colour of black cherry skins and a firm film leading to long fast forming tears setup the first sip. Smooth, filling the mouth with spicy blackberries, a touch of bramble and a long warming finish of evenly mixed flavour remnants. An interesting sipper that starts out bold, a bit rough and finishes smooth with drying tannins, mild and warm. Should complement grilled Italian sweet sausage, a T-bone or rack of lamb, beef tenderloin or ribs. Cellaring for a few years should be OK but will remain a warm somewhat brash sipper. 89

• CASA LAPOSTOLLE MERLOT 2008, Rapel Valley, Chile, 14.5% D, #405712  $16.95  (Tasted November 9, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on March 6, 2010 described by the Vintages Panel (Jan 2010) as "Medium- to deep-ruby colour; quite intense for a Merlot. The nose is redolent of black plum, cherry, menthol and soft old leather. It's dry, with a sweet black fruit core and mouthfilling texture. Fine acids and moderate tannins bring balance. Medium-full bodied with a medium to long finish."  My notes: A clear deep ruby colour with concentrated aromas of an even blending of spice, blackberry, raspberry and smoke. A swirl leaves a firm film only giving up slow tears at the last moment. Silky smooth with a strong penetrating tang, shallow fruit and an earthy liquorice then a finish that carries mostly an earthy echo of fruit with drying tannins noticeable at the start gaining ground at the end. Not a social sipper but suitable with well seasoned bbq’d pork ribs or pulled beef sliders. An unusual rendition of a merlot.  83

FONTANAFREDDA GAVI 'DEL COMUNE DI GAVI' 2009, Piedmont, Italy (Map it!), 12.5% XD, #075440  $15.95  (Tasted November 4, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on September 18, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as "Gavi is the home of the Cortese grape. Other regions in Piedmont and northern Italy also grow it, but nobody does it better. At its best, as with this version, Cortese is fruity and aromatic, with a hint of minerality..." My notes: Fontanafredda has adopted less or no chemical adjustments in their winemaking (YouTube it!, 4:25 of 5:07). This Gavi is a new gold colour in the bowl and has a firm film that recedes with slow tears. A light herbal and lemon aroma cries for seafood: lobster or crab with drawn butter, grilled white fishes, or scallops in a creamy pasta. The dry, fullness of its smooth texture, the delicate lemon flavour and its bone dry finish confirms the pairing. Quite enjoyable as a sipper for its unusual full-bodied texture but a meal white for sure. Should cellar well for several years.  91
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VERAMONTE RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2008, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 13.5% XD, #494443  $14.95  (Tasted November 15, 2010)  CS
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A Vintages release on September 4, 2010 rated 88/100 and described by Jay Miller (June 2009) as "The light gold-coloured 2008 Chardonnay was fermented with natural yeasts and was partially barrel-fermented. It exhibits toasty apple and pear flavours, a smooth texture, and good depth."  My notes:  Light golden with a just perceptible scent of yeast and apple. A touch of butter carries a lemon and pear blend fading slowly in a dry, tangy finish. Pleasing for its round texture and refreshing crispness makes this a sipper for a curious crowd. Adequate when paired with a chicken strips on rice or buttery linguini, a fish Bouillabaisse or mussels in a curry sauce. Cellaring for a few years OK but may not improve overall.  88


C. J. PASK GIMBLETT ROAD SYRAH 2007, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 14.0% D, #163998  $18.95  (Tasted November 8, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 rated 4 of 5 and described by Michael Cooper (undated) as "... Estate-grown and barrel-matured for a year, the 2007 vintage is dark and highly fragrant, with generous plum, black-pepper and liquorice flavours, well-integrated oak and a firm backbone of tannin."  My notes:Some floral with the spice in the nose suggests a syrah rather a shiraz however both are strongly scented. There’s a touch of granite in the deep ruby colour and the film quickly recedes with lots of slow tears. A sip warms the palate spreading black cherry, red currant and liquorice across the palate and the warmth continues through a long, smooth, spicy finish. A full-bodied bold sipper, something to accompany a good book in solitude or listening to Rush on a Fall evening. Better paired with grilled beef. May improve marginally with cellaring, 2 years.  88

HICKINBOTHAM 'CLARENDON' SHIRAZ/CABERNET 2008, McLaren Vale, South Australia, 14.5% D, #159632 $15.95  (Tasted November 5, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on February 20, 2010 described by the Panel (Sept 2009) as "... Inky purple in colour, this Shiraz/Cab blend is attractive and approachable; full bodied with bright, juicy, mixed-berry fruit flavours balanced by medium acidity. The finish is juicy with medium length. A vivacious and thrilling wine to enjoy now."  My notes: From 37 year old vines on the Claredon hills south of Adelaide with a colour that is a deep rich ruby. The nose has a penetrating spice and raspberry blackberry essence, also rich. The heat penetrates and flows across and around the palate masking rather than complementing soft berry flavours. This continues into a long hot finish. Not quaffable - unless you're accustomed to quaffing a strong drink such as scotch. The sting remains on the tongue long after a sip. Pair with savoury bbq’d ribs or steaks - was too brash for a BMT Sub. Cellaring for 5 - 10 years may soften turning the brashness into a voluptuous full-bodied gem. If drinking now try decanting over night otherwise not a drink now.  90 Cellar

TAWSE 'SKETCHES OF NIAGARA' RIESLING 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 10.0% MD, #089029  $17.95  (Tasted November 7, 2010)  CS


A Vintages release on June 26, 2010 given 4½ of 5 (90-93) by Vic Harradine (May 1, 2010) and described by the winemaker, Paul Pender, as "The 2009 vintage gave us some incredible surprises, and this was certainly one of them! The fruit was perfect at harvest, showing great ripe flavors and acidity. The wine reflected this, exhibiting intense ripe grapefruit on the nose, and expanding on the palate to include crisp acidity, distinct minerality. The lingering finish includes a subtle contrasting bitterness reminescent of citrus zest.”  My notes: A Gold Medal winner at the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards and poetically praised by a local critic (not shown).  Also Tawse was chosen Winery of the Year at a Canadian wine event this year. I had to try this Sketches label. A light lemon colour and showing some micro bubbles on the bowl, crisp. The film is very slow to recede and shows no tearing. The first sip has definite sweetness balanced with some tart refreshing and thoroughly cleansing the palate with detectable lemon and pear flavours, pleasing as a sipper and leading to a long succulent finish slowly fading while remaining faithful to the fruit - distinctly Niagara. Serve chilled and consume while cold for best sipping. Pair with lobster or crab pieces on a bed of greens or lightly herbed risotto. A drink now or cellar tasting yearly.  89

ROSEWOOD ESTATES NATALIE'S SÜSSRESERVE RIESLING 2008 VQA Creek Shores, Beamsville, Ontario (Map it!), 11.0% M, #164483  $18.00  (Tasted November 11, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described by the Vintages Panel (March 2010)  as "Aromas suggest smoky peach, lime, mineral, McIntosh apple and nectarine. It starts out off-dry and then dries out nicely due to the brisk acidity. Medium bodied with a tangy/fruity finish. Almost Rheingau or Pfalz Kabinett in style."  My notes: Allowing some natural sugars to remain leaves a slight sweetness to this Riesling and lowers the amount available for alcohol. The film is slow to recede and has no tears at least initially. A pear apple aroma for a delicate nose and the first sip has a definite sweet tinge with an acid level creating a refreshing succulence. The finish is dry although the sweetness remains along with a mineral apple note. If you’re looking for petrol I could not detect any. Nibbles are a must - did not go with grilled salmon, green beans and salad - perhaps with sushi or a bento box of tempura shrimp and veggies. A drink now.  82

INNISKILLIN 'WINEMAKER'S SERIES' BARREL AGED PINOT GRIS 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario (Map it!), 12.0% D, #177766  $19.95  (Tasted November 24, 2010) CS
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A Vintages release on July 10, 2010 scored 4 of 5 by Christopher Waters (Who?) (Vines, Summer 2010) and described as "... ripe, mouth filling and exotic Winemaker's Series model makes the most of its delicious peach and tropical fruit notes, which are accentuated nicely by spice and smoke notes. The wine's lovely smooth texture and core of ripe fruit make it a delicious 'go to' wine for warm weather sipping." My notes: The Winemaker is Bruce Nicholson. A crisp and clear new gold colour and aromas of just perceptible peach, apple with a light herbaceousness. The flavour has an interesting mix of apple, peach fuzz and lead pencil, medium-bodied and all evenly contributing delicately to the blend. Finishes along the same mix with a moderate roundness and acidity. A mellow sipper, smooth and polite with an ambiguous finish. Pair with light seafood, eg. tilapia on rice or risotto or cold salmon filet on greens. A drink now - not for cellaring. 84

GRAY MONK GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2008 VQA Okanagan Valley, Okanagan, BC (Map It!), 12.9% D, #321588 $18.95  (Tasted November 11, 2010)  CS
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A Vintages release on September 4, 2010 rated 88/100 and described by John Schreiner (Who?) (August, 2009) as "a classic expression of the variety, beginning with spicy aromas. On the palate, there are layers of fruit, including grapefruit and lychee, with spice on the finish."  My notes: The nose has a delicate level of honey backed with spice and shows golden blond in the glass. Long legs drip from a firm film suggesting a rounded texture and the first sip starts with spice ending with a level of tang that overrides just a suspicion of sweet. Flavours of Bosc pear, white grapefruit and lychee carry into a long dry finish. An interesting sipper with a prominence needing an Asian buffet to tame its spirit - may develop nicely with 2-3 years cellaring. 89

BAREFOOT PINOT GRIGIO NV, California, USA, 12.5% D, #053983  $9.95  (Tasted November 22, 2010)  CS
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An E J Gallo wine described anonymously as (undated) "Pale straw with aromas of pineapple, peach, citrus and floral. Dry, light to medium-bodied with pineapple apple and pear flavours and hints of citrus ending with a very crisp finish."  My notes:  A just-noticeable scent of grapefruit pith and the thin film recedes slowly leaving a lacy pattern on the glass. The colour is a sandy blond and the first sip has a balanced tang with a pithy grapefruit flavour trending to a slight chalk dry finish. There’s a hollowness to the foreground herbaceous flavours providing some mystery -  difficult to attribute to pinot grigio. A party sipper for a distracted crowd or a white to pair with roast chicken, white fish or shellfish entrees. A drink now. 77

CHÂTEAU DE QUINCAY SÉLECTION TRADITION SAUVIGNON 2009. Loire, France, 12.5% XD, #066183 $13.95  (Tasted November 10, 2010)  CS

A Vintages release described anonymously (undated) as "...This very crisp and dry, light-bodied wine shows lots of citrus fruit aromas and flavours balanced by refreshing acidity."  My notes: Delicate in so many ways: the colour is clear touched by honey, the film recedes evenly showing a few fast legs and the first sip gives an impression of tropical fruit, a moderate acid leaving the palate lightly refreshed and dry. Flavours and texture are light-bodied and pleasant. Pairing with white fishes or crab meat, cold preferable to hot would be suitable - nothing seasoned or spicy - a creamy shrimp salad. A drink now. 83

MCWILLIAM'S HANWOOD CHARDONNAY 2008, New South Wales, Australia, 13.5% D, #557934 $13.05*  (Tasted November 17, 2010)  CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as "Medium straw; oaky, tropical fruit and coconut aromas; very fruity and soft with a long oaky finish. Serve with Digby herring, crab legs, grilled salmon-trout."  My notes: Reduced from $14.05.  The 2008 is new gold in the glass and an aroma, almost perceptible, of pineapple and pear. The film separates slowly forming broad, slow tears and the first sip has separate seams of glycerol, tangy subdued lime, pineapple and acid. A sipper having a pleasing smoothness but some blandness, nothing else. Seems to me not well integrated. The finish starts bold then declines quickly leaving a dry, lime shadow. Have with shellfish - or chicken done on a spit. A dry drink now.  78

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TILIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #163428  $12.95  (Tasted November 25, 2010) CS
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A wine of Catena from LCBO's General shelves described anonymously (undated) as " deep youthful purple-red; red berry, cherry and a touch of smoke in the aromas; dry, medium body; rich fruit flavour, balanced acidity, medium tannins to finish; could hold 1 to 2 years."  My notes:There’s a touch of Brett that airs quickly when initially opened leaving a moist earth and mild blackberry scent. There’s a touch of purple to the ruby red adding a rich glow to the glass and a swirl leaves a firm film with just a few reluctant tears. Sipping is smooth and a light tannin turns the texture to velvet with flavours of delicate blackberry, plum and leather. Full-bodied with acids that balance the black fruit to make this a mild house red, no flamboyancy to distract conversation. Pair with buffet fare: sausage pieces, stuffed mushrooms, bacon wraps. There’s enough to expect keeping a year or two. Drinking well now.  87
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TILIA MALBEC 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.9% D, #160945 $13.00  (Tasted November 15, 2010)  CS
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A wine of Catena from LCBO's General shelves described anonymously (undated) as "deep ruby/purple colour; blackberry and plum with a touch of coffee and pepper aromas; medium body with fruit forward flavour and medium tannin, could age for 1or 2 years."  My notes: The 2008 vintage was rated 4 1/2 (90-93) by Rod Phillips'  fourth edition of The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO. The 2009 has a stewed plum tinge to red ruby and a firm film that leads to many slow tears. The nose has a scent of dark plums, pepper, black cherries and warm earth - enjoyable, simple. Smooth on the tongue with flavours of plums and blackberries that briefly brighten the palate then fade to a long drying, warm finish. A match with veal scaloppini, veal parmigiana, or schnitzel and spätzle. Cellaring a year or two possible but not likely to improve. 83
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TILIA TORRONTES 2009, Salta, Argentina, 13.5% D, #186403  $12.95  (Tasted November 22, 2010)  CS
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A wine of Catena from LCBO's General shelves and described on the back label as "Tilia is the Latin name for the Linden tree grown throughout Mendoza. ... The warm sunny days and cool mountain nights produce intensely aromatic Torrontes that is crisp and refreshing. ... shows ripe citrus and apricot fruit and finishes with bright clean acidity.... " My notes:A bland blond colour with a blend of nettles and citrus for a nose and a fairly thin film leaves scalloped edges that recede slowly. A sip says it’s a meal white and not a sipper… and specifically a seafood white. Citrus and white peach with an overall chalky dryness starts with the first sip and carries through to a long round finish. Have with pan-fried white fish filets or cold salmon filets on greens. Has a indigenous oneness that gains points. 84