More May Whites(6): Italy Pinot Grigio; NZ Pinot Gris, Sauv Blanc; France Blend; Canada Chard(2)

MACULAN PINOT GRIGIO 2006, Breganze, Italy, 12.0% XD, #734921 $14.95 (Tasted May 29, 2007)

A Vintages release on May 26, 2007 described as "... Maculan... wines are appreciated for their elegance and finesse. Enjoy this Pinot Grigio with flavourful fish dishes or pasta with a simple sauce and a few slivers of black truffle or a drizzle of truffle oil." My notes: Not much description from Vintages and none on the website makes me think this brand is made for the North American market or for other reasons not marketable to indigenous imbibers. A light lemon colour with a green tinge - serving well chilled slows an aroma of lemon, lime and wild flowers although you have to sniff hard to detect it, but it needs chilling. The first swallow is welcomed with a stiff nip on the taste buds - the flavour and finish is of lemon, sour apple and crushed stems - not unpleasant if you have a cheese selection nearby... or are having a seafood appetizer or entree. Pair with chicken paella, pork souvlaki, chorizo sausage pieces and wild mushroom pasta. Not for cellaring, not a sipper and a bargain only if you are looking for a very dry, steely textured - like my next door neighbour made each Fall - white. For elegance and finesse I'd go with the Sileni . Not a value.

SILENI CELLAR SELECTION PINOT GRIS 2006, Hawkes Bay, NZ, 12.5% XD, #032393 $15.95 (Tasted May 27, 2007)

A Vintages release on May 26, 2007 described as "The 2006 is mostly handled in tanks, but 7% of the blend was barrel-fermented. It’s a ripe-tasting wine, off dry with a slightly oily texture and pear and spice flavours showing very good depth. Three and one half (of 5), (Michael Cooper, Buyer’s Guide to New Zealand Wines 2007)." The website says "The Cellar Selection has a classic peach stonefruit characters, with concentrated fruit on the palate and a soft finish. It is a mouthfilling wine, just off-dry, and well suited to seafood, white meats and Asian food styles. Drink it young or cellar up to three years. The 2006 vintage won the Bronze Medal - Royal Easter Wine Show, 2007 (NZ)." Beppi Crosariol's column (May 26) says "Yet another grape not commonly associated with New Zealand is pinot gris... [this] doesn't disappoint, especially not at the price. It's light to medium-bodied, with a silky texture and hints of pear, peach and flowers." My notes: The Cellar Selection is the entry or 'everyday drinking' level of four Sileni wine brands. Has a pleasing spicy aroma with a delicate grapefruit edge. A very light straw colour, light-bodied, a citric tartness balanced with flavours of crisp grapefruit, stone fruit and a sparse creaminess giving some depth and masking any natural sweetness. The finish has a light grapefruit tang fading quickly but leaving that spice and some warmth. It was excellent with pieces of rotisserie chicken and roasted yam cubes - and should be great with any seafood or Asian fare. Keep lots on hand as a drink-now for summer days on the patio. Cellaring a year should be OK but it's a great sipper now. It's almost an Italian style Pinot Grigio and a very good value.

MOUNT RILEY SAVÉE SPARKLING SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006, Marlborbough, NZ, 14.0% XD, #032326 $22.95 (Tasted May 26, 2007)

A Vintages release on May 26 described as "Sparkling wine made from Sauvignon Blanc is very rare. Now in its second vintage, Mount Riley’s unique Savée is made using the traditional method. It’s bottle fermented, but only for a few months before disgorgement. The result is a bubbly with a racy, aromatic Sauvignon character expertly balanced by a hint of bready/toastiness. A great fizz for seafood dishes." The website notes "Pale lemon, straw with a fine bead. Powerful and fresh with aromas of gooseberry and capsicum with underlying heraceousness. Has a fresh and lively palate with a fine mousse. Full flavoured and finely balanced with zesty acidity. Good length and a crisp clean finish. Have within 18 months of vintage." Beppi Crosariol's column (May 26) lists it as a NZ pick saying "Grapefruit is the predominant flavour... a refreshing bubbly, with a creamy texture, delicate mousse and hints of pear, toasty bread and flowers." My notes: A light golden straw colour, lots of large bubbles settling to a regular burst and a firm, fine spritz throughout. A gooseberry and nettles nose, a gooseberry tang with tart white grapefruit, a clean, dry, crisp body, with a steely edge. The gooseberry sets up a luscious finish, long with the faint scent of wildflowers. 'Creamy' or 'toasty bread' it's not. Should be great with fresh oysters on the half shell, or with seafood appetizers, eg. butter brushed halibut skewers or scallops generously wrapped in side bacon. A different varietal bubbly and if you like NZ sauvignon blanc you'd love this as a shift from the regular champagne. A real value given these provisos.

TAWSE 'ROBYN'S BLOCK' CHARDONNAY 2003 VQA, Vineland, Canada, 14.1% D, #Winery $48.00 (Retasted May 25, 2007)

My notes: Last tasted June, 2006. Now is a deep golden colour and a toasty butterscotch nose, balanced with lemon, melon and pineapple. Full-bodied, a pleasing tart edge, very smooth and flavours of a light lemondrop, mango, butter and caramel. The finish is moderately long leaving the silky taste of butter on the tongue. This can be served off-chill although has more sparkle if kept icy. Expensive for an old style chardonnay but doesn't have the burnt straw taste of overoaking. My preference is for a lightier and fruitier approach although once in awhile 'old' is elegant which this is. Sip as a chilled aperitif - perhaps one ice cube? - it's full enough. Pair with spicy mussels, seafood paella, or bouillibaise - a special chard for the right occasion. It's difficult to imagine this improving with additional cellaring - caramel may go treackly, silkiness may migrate to oil, and the remaining fruit may be lost. Not all at once... and which comes first is a guess. Sipping well now and it's my last bottle.

MUMM CARTE CLASSIQUE NV, Champagne, France, 12.3% D, #308064 $53.15 (Tasted May 20, 2007)

A General listing described as "Medium straw colour; buttery, candied lemon nose; rich citrus flavours with a clean, fruity finish. Serve as an aperitif or with smoked salmon; creamy soups." Sparkling Direct (Online distributor) describes the Classique as "Deep golden yellow, with amber tints... dense, lively bubbles form a generous foam. A rich fruity flavour develops, with sweet aromas of peach, pear and exotic fruit, combined with discreet hints of honey and vanilla. Remains smooth and well-rounded throughout, with the harmonious presence of a fresh acidity. A fruity blend of mature reserve wines in generous dosages gives this Demi-Sec champagne all its variety and character." My notes: A blend of pinot meunier (50%), pinot noir (35%) and chardonnay (15%). A toasted peach colour with aromas of toast, peach and green apple from a burst of large bubbles settling into a steady fine stream. Full in the mouth with a flavour blend of peach and pear, tart and creamy and strained through a fine mousse leaving the mouth with the smooth texture of a fizzy fuzzy peach building with each taste. A welcomed sipper if you like an almost dry bubbly. A drink-now... not likely to change much with cellaring and a value only if you are convinced 'champagne' is the way to celebrate. Have with fresh oysters.

JACKSON-TRIGGS DELAINE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2004 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 13.5% D, #623454 $21.15 (Tasted May 20, 2007)

A Vintages release on October 28, 2006 described as "[the] Delaine vineyard produces some of the finest fruit in Niagara. Located on the Niagara Parkway, this 41-hectare site grows limited production, low yield Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Semillion. This Chardonnay underwent 100% barrel fermentation and partial acid-softening malolactic fermentation followed by 8 months of barrel aging in new and 1-year-old French oak barriques. The producer recommends enjoying this wine with cedar-planked salmon, steamed mussels with saffron or pork tenderloin." The winemaker, Tom Seaver, says "Brilliant gold in colour, this elegant wine displays rich tropical aromas of ripe grapefruit, fresh green apples and citrus underscored with nuances of toasted oak. Full flavours of pineapple, grapefruit and lemon delicately fold into a creamy, biscuity finish." My notes: The Vintages writeup describes the vineyard and process but nothing about the wine. A light blond colour with a very faint nose of sweet pea floral. The flavours take time to develop - a delicate grapefruit and wet straw with a slippery citrus and mineral finish. Has a moderate tang as a sipper but nothing varietally interesting to anticipate with each sip. Pair with grilled salmon or telapia. However, I would refuse this at a restaurant - not a partner for an 'eat-out' meal. Perhaps this bottle went stale on Vintages' shelf. It's well past cellaring and not a value.

May Reds(14): NZ Pinot Noir; S Africa Blend; USA Blend; France Blend; Chile Blend, Merl(2), Pin Noir, Syrah, Cab Sauv(2); Australia Merlot, Blend(2)

KIM CRAWFORD PINOT NOIR 2006, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #626390 $19.95 (Tasted May 28, 2007)

Wine of the Month and part of Vintages release on May 26, 2007 described as "Complex set of aromas, including sour cherry, coffee, underbrush, raspberry and mushroom. Dry with the fruit perfectly surrounded by moderate tannins. This medium-bodied, long-finishing wine will reward 2-5 years in a good cellar, or, serve it tonight with roast beef or even smoky barbecue fare. (VINTAGES panel, April 2007)." RP of Winecurrent gives it four and one half (of 5) saying "This is an excellent price and the wine is a very good candidate for short-term cellaring. Right now you get quite intense flavours of sweet cherry, spice and pepper with some earthy notes, with quite firm tannins. Give it a bit of time or drink it now with grilled red meat." The website describes it as "Medium depth of colour with purple and crimson notes. An aromatic wine with black cherries and red currants on the nose, complexed with integrated oak and a smoky bacon character. Has a palate a nice combination of dark cherries and red fruit abound. This is underscored with a hint of oak and firm tannins. Persists well. Cellar up to five years... " My notes: A light to mid ruby colour and, after airing for ten minutes, a nose of cherry, berry and black pepper in equal portions. Silky, balanced with a berry tartness on the first sip, light-bodied, and flavours of blackberry and a very slight tar. The tar edge carries through to a long smooth finish of primarily a smoky cherry. A companion for meat dishes... not too spicy though. Perhaps the oak treatment hasn't shown as yet... better to cellar for a few years to let it develop rather than drink now. Part way to a european style where fruit is giving way to process, altho' it may just be the fruit is light. Not my type of Pinot.

GOATS DO ROAM IN VILLAGES 2005, Western Region, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #566851 $15.95 (Tasted May 26, 2007)

A Vintages release on May 26, 2007 described as "The name may be light-hearted, but the wine is a serious blend of Shiraz, Pinotage, Mourvedre and a touch of Viognier. Copying here the best of both the northern and southern Rhône, Goats do Roam In Villages, is a fruit-forward wine with a beautiful spine of tannin and crisp acidity. Try this with a grilled leg of lamb or braised beef dishes. It will also reward 2-4 years in a cellar." RP of Winecurrent gives it four and one half (of 5) saying "...big, bold, and brash. It's rich and all dark fruit flavours with accents of spice, pepper, smoke and tar. The tannins are firm, there's a nice seam of acidity, and it's terrific with grilled lamb." My notes: An interesting nose of soft plums and cherries and a mid ruby colour. Starts with a firm tartness and tannin leading to a red cherry flavour. Medium- to light-bodied, finishing with the drying texture of fine tannins and some red cherry flavour, fairly long fading to crushed cherry pits. Have with burgers, meat- mushroom- pepperoni- and tomato pizza or italian sweet sausage on a bun. A common red... like a french table wine and a drink-now. I don't see anything to cellar. The alcohol is 'big', I don't see the 'bold' but perhaps it's 'brash' for posing as a Rhône red. Not a value.

DOMAINE CHANDON BLANC DES NOIRS SPARKLING WINE, California, USA, 13.0% D, #100693 $21.95 (Retasted May 26, 2007)

My notes: Last tasted December 2006 after a Vintages release on December 09, 2006. A delicate hue of peachy pink and described by Vintages as a 'real crowd pleaser.' RP of Winecurrent gave it four stars and I commented '... a yeasty apple. Fine bubbles that initially fills and subsides in the glass then fills each sip. A tart edge to granny smith apple lasting evenly on the palate with some leaning to tartness rather than fruit. A pleasant fruity moussey sipper, cleansing to the palate and could be paired with fresh oysters, shaved meats or full flavoured cheeses. A reliable bubbly for diverse occasions. A good value.' Why repeat myself? It hasn't changed much in six months although 'granny smith' has a creamy watermelon appeal to it. A blend of 79% Pinot Noir, 14% Pinot Meunier and 7% Chardonnay - and, unless colour is important (turn the lights low) why pay more for a 'champagne'?

THE LITTLE PENGUIN MERLOT 2006, Australia, 13.0% D, #598912 $12.15 (Tasted May 22, 2007)

A General listing described as "Deep red violet; aromas of cocoa, leather and cherry; dry, medium bodied, with soft cherry fruit centre, velvety tannins and vanilla notes on the moderate finish. Grilled burgers, barbequed ribs or picnic fare." Wine Spectator, Sept 2006, rates the 2005 vintage 85/100 saying "Light and fresh, refreshing mouthful of plum and blueberry flavors, lingering well. Drink now." The company describes it as "Bright red color. Fleshy ripe strawberries and juicy blueberries entice the palate into a meandering river of black fruits and spice. The palate is soft and stylish with wonderfully ripe sweet fruit, leading to a full-flavored sweet persistent finish. Will complement hard cheeses, BBQ tritip(?) and Asian cuisine." My notes: There's no indication of the percentage of grapes contained in this 'merlot' produced for the North American market by Foster's, a Southcorp Wines company. It's a deep red ruby and similar to sipping an off-chill, soft, lightly flavoured grape juice, merlot-like in texture. There's no nose to speak of. Faint flavours include some plums, some cherries and some artificial sweetener added to the blend. A sociable sipper if you like a manufactured wine. Pairing with any meat dish may even spoil it (our bottle went down the drain). Not cellarable and not a value.

WILLIAM COLE ALTO VUELO SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON / CARMÉNÈRE 2005, Central Valley, Chile, 13.5% XD, #030817 $13.95 (Tasted May 21, 2007)

A Vintages release on May 12, 2007 described as "William Cole is an ex-pat American who made his fortune as a software developer before establishing his winery in Chile’s Casablanca Valley. An excellent value, this approachable wine’s ripe cherry and plum fruit flavours mingle with savoury pepper and herb notes. It’s great with gourmet burgers or sausages." Natalie MacLean rates it 89/100 giving it a tie as Best Value Red of the Release and says: "Terrific taste and quality for the money! A perfect party wine. Notes of black cherries and plums. Ripe, round and full-bodied." My notes: There's no description of the wines on the winery's website but I'd say this is a 60-40 blend. A deep ruby colour with aromas of black cherries, red cherries and a dusting of fine pepper. The flavours introduce themselves with a strong bite of tart red cherries followed by the smooth texture of black cherries, perhaps some plums. The oak isn't that noticeable but the finish is tannic dry with mostly crushed red cherry stones, not unattractive just premature for sipping. Have with rare beef: Black Angus patties, prime rib, T-bones, short and long ribs or barbecued pork ribs sprinkled liberally with Barberian's Steakhouse Steak Seasoning. Cellar for two years minimum, too early to fully savour its value now.

CALAMA MERLOT 2005, Central Valley, Chile, 14.0% D, #619440 $9.70 (Tasted May 18, 2007)

A General listing described as "Dark medium ruby/purple red; aromas of black plum, bell pepper, earth, licorice and sweet cherry; dry, medium to full bodied, with mocha, ripe blackcherry, raspberry fruit flavours, fine tannins and good length. Serve with braised flank steak, tacos or on its own as a backyard wine." The website says "Spice and black cherry greet the nose, hinting at the ensuing sweet and round structure that is about to invade the palate. This is a medium bodied wine with a beautiful purple colour that resounds of softness, ripe fruits and a silky nature..." My notes: The colour is as advertised, a rich ruby plum suggesting a succulent varietal. The nose is soft, berry rich with some vanilla nuances. Fine tannins give a velvety texture with medium-bodied flavours of ripened black cherries and a natural spice finishing long and silky. This is a super sipper now - and it's a polite meal red, lots of chocolate, some coffee, some brightness as if more than a red cherry or two was in the flavour blend... and enough oak influence to companion prime rib, italian sweet sausage, rack of lamb or an all beef pattie or two. Cellaring for a few years should produce a bargain merlot. Buy by the case.

JEANNERET GRENACHE/SHIRAZ 2004, Clare Valley, Australia, 15.0% XD, B&W Wines $22.46 (Retasted May 13, 2007)

My notes: Winecurrent gave this five (of 5) and a 'drink now to 2010' recommendation when tasted last September. My comments at the time were: "... aromas of slight pepper, tar and blackberry. ... a very smooth and full mouthfeel, an unctious, crisp bite (15%) with lots of blackberry... more of an European red, etc. " Still has a nose of pepper, tar and blackberry although the fruit has waned in the short eight months, it's still prominent but more integrated with the spices. Medium-bodied, a very smooth texture with pronounced tannins, still has the unctious fullness of berries but again the fruit is more integrated with the spice tones. Blackberry remnants carry through to the long lip smacking finish and a hint of currant touches the palate. This should continue to cellar well.

VINA TARAPACA EX ZAVALA MERLOT 2006, Maipo Valley, Chile, 14.0% D, #558668 $9.65 (Tasted May 13, 2007)

A General listing not described on the LCBO website. Notes from the Tarapaca website state "Ruby red with violet notes. Intense varietal aroma, with notes of red fresh fruits, light spicy notes of black pepper and cinnamon, touches of caramel and tobacco. Medium body, well balanced, fresh, with a pleasant finish. Smooth flavourful. With sweet and ripe tannins." My notes: According to the website this is 100% Merlot... the colour is as advertised, ruby red with violet tones. The aroma is soft black cherries, a few berries and a dusty tone (pepper and cinnamon?). The nose is full somewhat sweet.... the flavour reflects the price - a weak varietal - a cherry-berry blend with a stalky edge giving it a strong dryness detracting from it being a sipper. Should be okay with hamburgers, pizza slices, lamb chop, ham steak or grilled chicken. Not for cellaring, a drink-now in a pinch and not recommended.

ERRÁZURIZ WILD FERMENT PINOT NOIR 2005, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 14.5% D, #510396 $17.95 (Tasted May 13, 2007)

A Vintages release on May 12, 2007 described as "... the colour and concentration of this wine is more pronounced. This wine displays intense aromas and flavours of raspberry, strawberry, loam and toast. The ripe fruit is well-balanced by the oak and smooth tannins." The winemaker says "... notable for its deep, cherry-red color, which is remarkably intense for this variety... The complex aromas include fresh raspberry and strawberry, touches of rose hip and wet earth, and notes of toasted wood that are very well integrated with the fruit, which contributes an agreeable sweetness. The red berry flavors on the palate offer impressive fruit intensity, while the ripe, smooth tannins speak of a fine structure that balances well with the wine’s acidity, giving it a full, fresh character. Cellar from 2007 to 2010... ". "Natalie rates it 87/100 saying "Notes of ripe cherries. Simple and lip-smacking good. pair with salmon, chicken." RP of Winecurrent gives it four and one half (of 5) saying "... a gorgeous example of New World Pinot, with concentrated flavours of ripe, dark cherries and herbal/spicy notes. It has a tangy texture, is medium bodied, and goes well with a grilled rack of lamb." My notes: Air for an hour to average out the extremes.... a mid 'drab' ruby colour and a just perceptible nose of raspberries and black cherries. Medium-bodied, the initial spice is a light white pepper with strong tannins, a slight strawberry, cherry and mountainberry flavour blend. Fruit is equal partners with spice moderated by the effect of french oak and finishing blandly except for some drying tannins. Cellaring for two years should build more character. A rack of lamb is a good pairing for this pinot - not a sipper, not a value.

VINA TARAPACA EX ZAVALA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, Maipo Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #249599 $9.70 (Tasted May 09, 2007)

A General listing described as "Deep ruby red; cassis, black cherry, cedar and touch of spice and plum on the nose; dry, medium-full bodied, with ripe tannins, cassis, berry and oak flavours, soft finish. Serve with lamb souvlaki; BBQ meats; hearty beef stews." Notes on the Tarapaca website state "Deep ruby-red. Fine wood aromas. Intense, complex, with aromas of fruit like currant, cherry and cassis. Mint and tobacco notes, and of spices as black pepper and vanilla. Full bodied, balanced, great structure and large and complex aftertaste. Ripe and strong tannins. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon." My notes: Has a sweet cherry 'bubble gum' nose and a mid ruby colour. Medium-bodied, flavours carry a red cherry and strawberry theme with highlights of an unusual spice - minty but with a cloying edge - perhaps the 'Mint and tobacco notes' - then hedging to a fairly long sweet cherry, mint and straw finish. Difficult to fit this into a cabernet sauvignon varietal - it's as if it has a grenache content or perhaps is 'manufactured'. For me, not a sipper... and pairing a wine having an unappealing aroma and flavour with any meal combination is difficult. If you end up with a bottle try it with bbq'd ribs or a well seasoned T-bone... but not a spicy entree. The price is right, just not the wine.

CALAMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005, Central Valley, Chile, 14.0% D, #619668 $9.55 (Tasted May 09, 2007)

A General listing not described on the LCBO website. The blend stated on the back label is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Shiraz. The Calama website notes "A mix of black fruits, dried plum and coffee... provide pleasantly expressive aromas to the nose. In your mouth, you will find the wine to be crisp, juicy and lively with a pronounced, yet round tannin structure, and a long lingering taste on your palate. This is a perfect wine to drink while nibbling on cheese as you prepare a steak dinner. You will enjoy this wine immensely whether having a glass while enjoying the company of friends or sitting at the table showing off your latest cooking creation." My notes: Calama Wines was founded in 2000 by Lisa Denham, a marketer by trade and an expat Alaskan, and her partner, Chilean Pablo Morales. This has a very striking deep ruby stained with violet colour, warm and inviting. After airing for an hour, the aromas are quite delicate - a strong sniffer is needed for the dark fruit, mostly berries, riding on a vein of smoky oak. Full-bodied, smooth as velvet with pepper spice, rich dark fruit and a touch of mild coffee. Leaves some smoothness on the lips with a persistent spice, fine tannins and bright tang in a moderate to long, perhaps shallow finish. Imitates reds with twice the fruit and twice the price making this a good value. Better paired with grilled, broiled or stewed meat dishes or 'while nibbling...'. Will likely cellar well in the short term, one to two years.

CHATEAU PLAISANCE PREMIERE COTES DE BORDEAUX 1999, Bordeaux, France, 12.5% XD, CP143-2210 $20.67 (Retasted May 6, 2007)

Opimian wrote: "This one is superb etc.... age at least five years." My notes: Purchase in October 2002 based on Opimian's description of 'superb, dark and thickly concentrated... rich and fragrant plum-style bouquet' and 'berry-like flavours'. It has cellared the five years and has gone from 'perhaps past prime, without the fresh fruit... ' (Nov 2005) to 'flavours of bright plum and black cherry... an unassuming red... mediocre and won't improve with further cellaring... ' (Dec 2006) to now, a murky mid-roan colour and, after airing an hour, has a soft plum and cherry nose. Initial flavours are of red and black cherry with some spice leading to a moderate finish of pepper, cherries with drying tannins on the edge. Medium- to light-bodied - a possible match with rack of lamb (unfortunately, it didn't!), ham steak, mild sausages or beef Wellington. For me, a terrible dry sipper with not much going for it and, if it ever had a life, this can't improve with further cellaring. A disappointment.

MARQUES de CASA CONCHA SYRAH 2004, Peumo, Chile, 14.5% D, #019042 $19.95 (Tasted May 02, 2007)

A Vintages release on April 28, 2007 without description. The Wine Spectator, 3 July 2006, rates it 91/100 saying "Ripe and pure, with lovely violet, blackberry and plum aromas and flavors that glide along sweet, embedded tannins. Has a healthy layer of flashy toast too, but more than enough fruit for balance. Concha y Toro makes it seem too easy. Drink now through 2008." Decanter, June 2006, gives it 5 or 5, saying “Nice spicy oak aromas that don’t dominate the rich black fruit. Lovely ripe dark fruits with a hint of chocolate and coffee. Very well made, nice oak balance. Up to 2 years.” My notes: For those wanting a full-bodied red this is another from Concha y Toro... altho' Syrah is not a Marques varietal described on their website as of today. Has a rich ruby colour with a violet hue and a warm, almost port nose, full of plums, blackberries and humidor tones. A sipper with flavours of ripe blackberries, a dry texture and finishing with black pepper, smoke and rich fruit coating the palate. A hospitable sipper as well as a companion with rich stews, roasted prime rib, grilled steak and ribs however, the flavours may want to share equally with the entree. Drinking well now. OK to cellar for several years - I'd try two initially.

NEPENTHE 'TRYST' CABERNET TEMPRANILLO ZINFANDEL 2004, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 13.5% XD, #029496 $15.95 (Tasted May 01, 2007)

A Vintages release on April 28, 2007 without description. Harvey Steinman of the Wine Spectator, Sept 2006 gives it 90/100 saying "This has pizzazz. Polished and round, with wild berry, cherry, currant and a tang of refreshing acidity as it all lingers on the finish. Tannins are well-formed, and it comes together beautifully. A blend of cabernet sauvignon (70%), tempranillo(17%) and zinfandel(10%). Drink now through 2012... ” My notes: Newly available in Ontario and one of three 'Tryst' blends - White, Red, and Sparkling - released by Nepenthe. An interesting nose of black cherry, blackberry and slight smoke and a deep ruby colour. The flavours are a medley of cherry, blackberry, looks full- but tastes medium-bodied with a bright cranberry edge. A long finish of restrained blackberries, a few crushed seeds for interest and a drying note, and a lingering sweet fruit. Definitely a dry sipper... better paired with red meats roasted, grilled, or crockpotted. A reasonably priced drink-now... It'd be optimistic to cellar a full five years... I'd go a year at a time to see where it heads.

More April Reds(10): USA Cab Sauv; France Grenache; Chile Blend; Canada Foch, Blend; Australia Blend(2), Pinot Noir, Shiraz(2)

THOMSON WOOLPUNDA RED BLOCK SHIRAZ 2004, South Australia, 14.0% D, #627216 $10.25 (Tasted April 26, 2007)

A General listing described as "Deep ruby colour; spicy, pepper, licorice, ripe and lush, with generous aromas of black currant, coffee and toasted oak; dry, full-bodied, with plummy fruit and earth flavours; soft tannins in a rich style. Serve with grilled foods with some spice; chicken; steak." The website claims "... a rich and full-bodied wine displaying plum and blackberry fruit with subtle soft tannins and gentle acidity support the rich fruit. It has an intense colour and has obvious fresh berry fruit aromas with underlying tone of cinnamon spice. The palate is firm and tight ... pleasant drinking [and] will improve over the next 2-3 years with careful cellaring." My notes: A soft berry and cedar aroma with a clear, deep ruby colour. The flavours are well balanced: sweet berry, red cherry and mint or perhaps, cinnamon spice but not prominent. The finish is mild with some earth tones, drying tannin and a polite peppery edge. Medium-bodied and pleasant enough to be a house sipper for general get togethers, not a special occasion. Suitable with a cheese tray of edam to aged cheddars and would be a quaffer with mild meat entrees: pepperoni pizzas, burgers, BLTs - loses its zip with spicier foods. Cellaring is possible but likely isn't worthwhile. Not memorable and the price reflects this - not a value.

MILDARA BLASS BLACK OPAL CABERNET MERLOT 2005, Australia, 13.5% D, #351890 $15.15 (Tasted April 26, 2007)

A General listing described as "Deep ruby colour; dark fruit, ripe plum and cherry with toasty oak aromas; dry, medium bodied, with ripe fruit flavours and chocolate notes; soft round tannins in finish. Serve with grilled red meats; cheese dishes; roast beef." The winemaker describes this as "... a deep crimson to purple. The aromas display excellent regional and varietal characters of berry and spice. These scents follow through with rich cherry and plum flavors, a hint of chocolate and a subtle touch of oak. The flavors develop well and finish with a long finely textured mouth feel. The cabernet sauvignon (56%) provides depth and cellaring potential [and] the merlot (44%)... softens the palate... enjoyable to drink immediately." My notes: A mid ruby colour with a light nose of soft oak and red cherries. A brightness on the first sip with nondescript flavours finishing with mostly red cherry pits and leaving a clean mouthfeel and fine tannins. Not a lot to be recommended as a sipper - better as a meal red but very shallow. Not cellarable and not recommended. Skip this brand of varietal blend. Over priced.

RODNEY STRONG CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003, Sonoma, USA, 13.8% XD, #226944* $19.95 (Retasted April 25, 2007)

My notes: A Vintages release on December 9, 2006 and last tasted on the 10th. RP of Winecurrent gave it a four and one half (of 5) saying 'has a lot of depth and finesse... hold it two or three years.. ' The website describes the 2003 growing season as 'a classic year for juicy, ripe fruit flavors thanks to an especially nice, warm growing season' and lists the points awarded:
- 90, Editor's Choice, Wine Enthusiast, December 2006
- 90, GOLD - Top 10 under $20, Chicago Value Wine Challenge, World Wine Championships 2006
- Critics GOLD - Critics Challenge International Wine Competition 2006
- 90, SILVER - California State Fair Wine Competition 2006
Still has a deep 'warm cedar and blackcurrant nose'... and, if anything, tangier, mintier flavours and a blackcurrant potpourri that goes on forever. A rewarding sipper and was great wtih rack of lamb with mashed turnip and carrot, roast potatoes and brocoli. The tannins are still well pronounced and with the firm, but palatable, acid this should cellar for many years. *No longer listed - hope this returns to the Vintages shelves some day soon - only a few bottles left now.

JACKSON-TRIGGS PROPRIETORS GRAND RESERVE MERITAGE 2001 VQA, Jordan, Canada, 13.1% XD, #594002 $23.95 (Retasted April 24, 2007)

My notes: Bought February 2004 and last tasted January 2006 with the comment 'Cellaring well and likely can carry a few more years.' This is tasting nicely but may have turned the corner - although it could last two more years (talk about Mr. Dithers!). Full-bodied, having a deep purple ruby colour and the same complex nose of a cedar humidor, purple plums, black cherries and a minty spice. The flavours flow smoothly with a firm acid edge and lots of ripe blackberries, currants, and faint vanilla extract. A long finish coats the mouth with fine tannins, a lively brightness and smooth currant remnants. A very dry, luscious red sipper containing elements of cab sauv (40%), merlot (40%) and cab franc (20%) along with sweet flavourings from French and American oak. Pair with anything meaty: sausage pieces to barbequed long ribs, T-bones to rack of lamb.. or mellowed fruit cake, chocolates... or just sip slowly. Super stuff!

DOMAINE PEIRIERE GRENACHE ROSE 2002, Pays d'Oc, France, 13.0% XD, CP149-2524 $11.67 (Retasted April 23, 2007)

My notes: Last tasted June , 2005 after cellaring December 2003 and based on Opimian's description "This is a stunner, fragrant with perfume of strawberry jam, light in flavour with just the right amount of fruit etc. A 'drink-now'." My comment at the time: 'Colour is bordering on peach and a nose is not now apparent. Light flavours of spice, orange and strawberry, nice light acid balance, light-bodied... Still an OK sipper with a warm moderate finish. Better with salty crackers and cream cheese dip, or pan-fried telapia.' I thought it was long gone and this bottle just retrieved from the cellar is well past its Due Date. No nose, a light texture with minimal flavours of watermelon, and a drying tannin with scarce tartness. Not a sipper and not really a meal wine at this point. Removing the chill marginally improved the texture and the finish. Can't blame anyone but myself on this one. It was a pleasant, but not a 'stunner', drink-now rose in 2003.

BROKENWOOD PINOT NOIR 2005, Beechworth, Australia, 14.0% XD, #020560 $21.95 (Tasted April 22, 2007)

A Vintages release on March 31, 2007 described as "In the Australian Wine Companion 2007, James Halliday gives Brokenwood an overall rating of five of 5 describing it as a 'deservedly fashionable winery producing consistently excellent wine'. This deep-coloured Pinot boasts lifted floral, and fragrant cherry aromas. It’s dry, medium-bodied and smooth with cherry fruit flavours and a lingering finish. Enjoy it with roast duck or quail." My notes: A deep strawberry colour with a violet cast; a faint nose of stewed strawberry, a satin texture that introduces flavours of fleeting strawberry to the palate shifting to a finish of crushed stems and now, more of a blueberry and cherry blend with a fine dryness and soft acid. Not an expected flavour for a Pinot Noir sipper and, I'd imagine, not preferred or enjoyable to most. Pairing with pork tenderloin turned out to be a disappointment, too nondescript. I can't see this cellaring well... making it a drink-now but I'd skip it all together to avoid any conundrum. May be meaningless but no local critic reported a tasting for this wine. Definitely not a value.

PEPPERJACK SHIRAZ 2004, Barossa, Australia, 14.0% XD, #020198 $22.95 (Tasted April 22, 2007)

A Vintages release on April 14, 2007 described as "Good colour; attractive medium-bodied wine; blackberry, plum and a touch of chocolate; good oak and tannins. Rated 93/100 by James Halliday, Australian Wine Companion 2007. Winemaker Nigel Dolan describes this as "... rich red in colour with soft purple hues. Aromas of blackberry and plum are supported by pepper and spice characters on the nose. The rich, round, soft palate shows concentrated berry fruit, complex oak and star anise notes. This wine is intricate and elegant with velvety tannins and great length of flavour." My notes: Released by Saltram Wine Estate, of the Foster's Group, although not included on the Saltram website as their brand. The colours are rich red with a purple hue and there are soft aromas of sweet oak, cherries, chocolate and a smidge of pepper that take time to develop in the glass. Full-bodied, a velvet roundness carrying flavours of rich black fruit, a touch of spice and fine tannins. The flavours carry through to the finish which is long with ripe berries. A dark red sipper... should appeal to anyone not looking for an initial aggressiveness but one that builds. Pair with any mild beef dish, mild cheese tray, pepper pate and garlic toasts, grilled ribs or flavourful stews. Was a polite accompaniment with grilled pork tenderloin. Drinking well now... cellaring for up to two years should be OK but taste regularly to ensure the fruit doesn't disappear.

VINA CARMEN CARMENERE CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2004, Valle del Maipo, Chile, 13.5% D, #439166 $17.15 (Retasted April 19, 2007)

The winery describes the 2004 blend - 60% carmenere, 40% cabernet sauvignon - as "Dark ruby red in colour. A rich and refined wine, with plenty of ripe fruits character and spices. Intense wild black cherry fruit aroma, followed by notes of laurel, clove, mint, pepper, dark chocolate and black olives. Well structured, concentrated and a big length; lovely balanced of jammy and dark ripe fruit along peppery flavours and sweet oak. Fine grained,smooth and velvety tannins. A complex wine with a long finish." My notes: A General listing last tasted September, 2006. Has the same intense purple-ruby colour with a nose of mint changing to pepper combined with black cherries, brambleberry and blackberry. Now has an appealing sharpness on the first swallow followed by flavours of black cherries, dark plum, mint and a tannic touch. Previous tarry notes are subdued allowing red cherries with a few tart cranberries to dominate - finishes firm, dry and long. I didn't get 'jammy', 'clove', 'sweet oak', or 'velvety'. Cellaring for two years may be optimistic as the texture and flavours are thinning, much drier on the palate and without finesse. This bottle was purchased new and shelf storage rather than cellaring may be a factor. An OK sipper with a dry mouthfeel... pairing with broiled red meat or stews would be more appropriate... was great with Texas chili. There are alternatives in the price range so this vintage is not recommended as a new purchase.

MALIVOIRE OLD VINES FOCH 2002 (Canadian Oak), Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5%, #Winery $25.00 (Retasted April 18, 2007)

My notes: First tasted October 2005. The winemaker, Ann Sperling, was at Malivoire when a dozen were purchased from the winery and cellared November, 2003. The colour is still a deep ruby with almost a garnet edge and the nose retains aromas of subdued soft cedar, slight vanilla and a background of blackberries. Medium- to full-bodied with flavours of stewed black cherries, a touch of licorice and well integrated soft tannins and acid. A velvety sipper now with less of an acetic zip, soft and mellow and tame compared to an Oz cab or shiraz. The finish is long ladened with soft subdued black fruit. There's still a foch edge but you have too look for it. Have with mild meat dishes: prime rib, calves liver and onions, veal scallopini, or even chicken livers on rice. Cellaring has been worth the wait (but you gotta tolerate Foch).... will likely cellar a few more years.

DEAKIN ESTATE ROSE 2005, Victoria, Australia, 14.0% D, #613992 $11.25* (Tasted April 17, 2007)

A General listing described as "Candy apple red; nose of raspberry, cranberry & underlying almond; medium-bodied with lots of strawberry on the palate. Serve with grilled sausage or Nicoise salad." The winemaker, Phil Spillman, says "... juice was limited to only one half-day of skin contact and then it was drained, clarified and fermented as a white wine. Different batches of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were produced to allow for the best blend... A radiant light red; fragrant with fresh raspberries, blueberries and ripe watermelon. Soft and round, a mouth-full of strawberries and cream, and there is just a dusting of residual sweetness... Enjoy while young, over a year or two. [serve with] paella or risotto. My notes: On sale for $9* and to complete my tasting of Deakin wines available locally. Not a lot of raspberry but some 'underlying almond' that comes across as a slight pond scum, which airing tends to alleviate, mixed with a light red cherry. A brilliant reddish colour with flavours of cherry, tart cranberry and watermelon. Finishes with watermelon and cherry fading quickly with some sugar showing then ending with a dry mouthfeel, no roundness. To me, an unusual blend for sipping and difficult to pair with many entrees - was too mild for roasted Atlantic salmon filet. A possible 'party' drink (but not my party), not for cellaring, not recommended. PS. Still 'unusual' but quite sippable on the second day open.

April Reds(12): S Africa Blend; Australia Cab Sauv(2), Merlot, Shiraz(4); Chile Carmen; France Syrah; USA Cab Sauv; Argentina Pin Noir

DEAKIN ESTATE SHIRAZ 2004, Victoria, Australia, 14.0% D, #560821 $12.15 (Tasted April 16, 2007)

A General listing described as "glums, cassis, sweet preserves, bell pepper and spice on the nose with a hint of licorice; dry, medium to full bodied, nicely balanced acidity, with lush, ripe cassis, wood spice, bell pepper and spice on the palate; warm, supple finish. Serve with rack of lamb; Spanish paella; spicy Italian sausage with grilled zucchini." The winemaker (Phil Spillman) says "Medium-deep red with nose of spicy fruitcake and raisin aromas are at the forefront and there are also plum, cinnamon and chocolate notes. A rich palate with dark berry fruits and fine tannins. Well balanced." My notes: Made from 100% Shiraz grapes the nose takes time to come and is a sweet plum with some white pepper and smoke. The colour is deep ruby with a violet tone and bright flavours of raspberry, cassis, mint all remaining as a well balanced blend and a dry, soft spicy finish. A natural shiraz with fermentation adding some complexities and complementary flavourings. Not as luscious and not a full berry flavour as pricier shirazes but for an entry level this offers a lot of value. Have with any red meat, mild, savoury or spicy. Cellaring a year may be a pleasant surprise but primarily a drink-now. Very nice!

R.L. BULLER & SON LIMITED RELEASE RUTHERGLEN SHIRAZ 2004, Victoria, Australia, 16.5% XD, #014506 $24.95 (Tasted April 15, 2007)

A Vintages release February 17, 2007 described as "This family winery has been in operation for more than 80 years in northeast Victoria. This Shiraz is packed with ripe blackberry and strawberry fruit flavours, as well as notes of licorice and a savoury edge. Dry with a medium full-body and supple tannins, enjoy it over the next three years with lamb or pork roast." Andrew Buller, winemaker, says "Deep crimson. Aromas of ripe plums and toasted oak. Rich and smooth mouthfeel with flavours of black cherry and hints of dark chocolate. Drying tannins overtake the fruit flavours briefly and fade to a finish redolent of the plummy aroma." My notes: A deep warm tone of spicy plums and soft oak aromas and a full deep ruby colour in the glass. Dry tannins, tasty black fruit and sharp edged black pepper fill the taste buds then finish with lengthy dry, white pepper and soft plums. This is a suitable companion to any beef entree. A sipper for those liking a medium- to full-bodied spicy red - the alcohol level can be factor altho' it's not apparent in a tasting. Should age for several years, two to four to start. A reasonable value and cellaring should bring out deep complexities returning a great red.

GOATS DO ROAM ROSE 2006, South Africa, 13.5% D, #655225 $13.15 (Tasted April 13, 2007)

A Vintages release on September 16, 2006 described as "All hail the new vintage! If you're looking for a fresh rosé, this newly-arrived 2006 is about as fresh as you can get! A blend of Shiraz, Pinotage, Cinsaut, Grenache, Gamay and Merlot grapes, ready yourself for a full-flavoured dry rosé bursting with summer berries, ripe red fruit, and spice." Comments from the Fairview Wines website "A deep vibrant pink with an aroma of ripe summer berries, and red fruits. Lovely character. The Palate is zesty ripe fruit, with a clean, crisp dry finish. The wine is super now. Enjoy over the next year or two." My notes: A deep rose colour with a candy cane nose, mostly red cherry and a bit of mint. A blended rather than fermented rose, likely for a North American market with a hardly noticeable sweetness. Flavours of red cherry, raspberry and light cranberry, a tinge of pepper and a long finish that's stays fresh and fruity fading to a clean pepper tinge. Held its own with Swiss Chalet chicken, should do well with a salmon steak spread with tartar sauce and broiled, Thai or Chinese. Not for long term cellaring but for reasonable sipping edging to finger foods that are slightly tangy or sweet/sour. A 'pop' wine and an OK value for a sociable sipper.

DEAKIN ESTATE MERLOT 2004, Victoria, Australia, 13.5% D, #577395 $12.15 (Tasted April 13, 2007)

A General listing described as "Deep ruby red; sweet vanilla, plum and black cherry aromas; dry, medium-full bodied, soft fruit driven style, lush finish. Serve with roast turkey or duck." The winemaker (Phil Spillman) says "Medium red, coffee and wet forest floor aromas with blackcurrant and cinnamon. These are wild and complex aromas and a precise description is elusive. Mature berry-fruit flavours with coffee and sweet pastry nuances." My notes: An entry level brand from the Wingara Wine Group and comparable with 'Yellow Tail' although Deakin specifies they use 100% merlot grapes. Slightly spicier with a black currant, blackberry tone and a mid ruby colour. Flavours develop nicely on the palate finishing smoothly with some depth and a subtle fruit sugar edge. A sociable sipper and suitable for a range of beef dishes: prime rib, flavoured stews, a ham steak or pork tenderloin - started showing some sweet fruit with a Steak and Cheese Sub with jalepenos. Not for cellaring, a value drink-now for an open house or family get together. I even enjoyed it as an evening sipper...

KATNOOK “FOUNDER'S BLOCK” COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004, Coonawara, Australia, 14.0% D, #620070 $18.15 (Tasted April 9, 2007)

The winemaker says of the 2004 "Dark plum with purple tinges. A nose of appealing.. dark berries and classic regional blackcurrant and mint notes. Seductive vanillin and chocolatey oak tones. The palate is a medium bodied wine with juicy fruit flavours of ripe dark berries. Hints of plum, ripe cherries and mint are harmoniously integrated with subtle sweet oak... and has an extended savoury finish with fine soft tannins." My notes: Now on the General shelves, the 2002 vintage was release by Vintages as #660332 in 2005 at the same price (before deposit). 'Founder's Block' is from the Wingara Wine Group, part of Freixenet, which also offers brands: Katnook Estates, Riddoch, Deakin and their newest, 'CrackerJack'. The winemaker's description of the 2004 vintage is close... I'd add there's some noticeable tannic dryness in the taste and finish - otherwise the dark berry and currant fruit, mint and full-bodied texture holds true. Not as unctious as the 2002 but a few years cellaring will iron out the tannins and it'll have close to the depth and smoothness of the 2002. Sip now or have with rare beef or full flavoured stews, burgers, pepperoni pizzas. Cellaring for five to eight years would be suitable. A value Cab Sauv.

KATNOOK “FOUNDER'S BLOCK” COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2002, Coonawara, Australia, 13.5% XD, #660332 $17.95 (Retasted April 9, 2007)

My notes: Last tasted on the day of the Vintages release (October 29, 2005) and noted as "... A deep purple-red, dense with rich aromas of berries, vanilla, and light peppery spices. Flavour is full, smooth, with ripe berries, plums and dark chocolate. The finish is equally stunning; soft, round on the tongue and full of blackberries. Should pair with any braised ribs, grilled steaks, full-flavoured stews, etc. A value Cabernet Sauvignon, now or for cellaring." An aroma of ripe blackberries and plums softened with smooth oak tones is still prominent. The flavour is full, smooth, with ripe berries, a touch of black currant and deep dark chocolate brightened with a bit of mint and natural berry tartness. The finish carries long with a good balance of fine tannin and bright acid. This has cellared well and should continue for another four to six years. With Riddoch, seldom available, being another of our favourites, Wingara wines have been a dependable value.

CASA SILVA CARMENÈRE RESERVA 2005, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #024679 $14.95 (Tasted April 6, 2007)

A Vintages release on March 31, 2007 described as "... With every vintage [Casa Silva] seem to raise the bar. This ultra-ripe Carmenère is a blockbuster with loads of blackberry, prune, graphite, leather, and spice aromas. It is dry with rich fruit tones surrounded by intriguing herbal notes and fine tannins which add complexity and intrigue." Natalie MacLean gives it 89/100 and calls the 'Best Value Red Wine' saying "Stunning value/taste for the money. Full-bodied with dark plum and mint aromas. Lovely long finish. Pair with: meat dishes." RP of Winecurrent gives it four and one half (of 5) saying "Carmenère is a late-ripener, and the search is on for the best sites in Chile. Casa Silva has obviously located one, as this Carmenère shows all the ripeness you want. It's fairly fat and plump, with intense flavours of dark fruit and berries with rich spiciness. This is really good value for a wine that will pair well with well-seasoned grilled red meat dishes." My notes: A deep ruby colour and distinct nose of white cherries and distant blueberries. The flavours are a cross between sour cherry and peppery blueberry - somewhat odd and certainly different. The finish is dry, long carrying the touch of flavours with a seam of light acid and graphite dryness. Cellaring for a few years should bring out a smoothness to complement the fruit increasing its depth but not complexity. An OK drink-now, not a sipper* unless you like dry and unusual. Pair with rack of lamb, pork chops with mushrooms simmered in basalmic, crockpot stews, and steak and kidney pies. *Letting air or decanting makes this a smoother sipper.... it's OK!

LURTON DOMAINE DES SALICES SYRAH 2004, Midi, France, 13.0% D, #926287 $14.95 (Tasted April 6, 2007)

A Vintages release March 31, 2007 described as "..., this Syrah is rich, ripe and very fruity. Aged for 11 months in oak barrels, the wine shows superb a balance between the oak and fruit. Enjoy this delicious quaffer with grilled steaks, hamburgers, pasta with meat sauce or gourmet sausages." My notes: Recommended by the vintages staff. A soft cedar and cherry nose: a deep ruby colour. Almost medium-bodied, flavours of bright red cherry with well balanced acid that wakes the taste buds and a firm tannin. The finish is clean, cherry and faint white pepper with some crush cherry pits leaving a dry mouthfeel. Not a sipper - a meal wine for anything light, beefy, wild mushroomy: prime rib to portabello burgers. A commercial drink-now, not for cellaring, ie. a 'table wine'.

GEYSER PEAK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003, Sonoma, USA, 13.5% XD, #343467 $21.95 (Tasted April 6, 2007)

A Vintages release on March 31, 2007 described as "This pioneering winery situated on 220 acres of estate vineyards in Sonoma's Alexander Valley celebrated its 125th Anniversary in 2005. Expect this oaked, ready-to-drink, full-bodied Cab to be brimming with ripe cherry and sweet oak flavours with a generous mouthfeel... " RP of Winecurrent gives it four and one half (of 5) saying "... concentrated dark, sweet fruit flavours that have plenty of complexity. The texture is generous, it's full bodied, and it goes well with burgers featuring meat or Portobello mushrooms, or with grilled red meats." My notes: Comes in half bottles, #675850 @ $12.95. The website doesn't list the 2003 vintage. An aged leather aroma with some plum and dark chocolate. A sultry ruby colour, medium-bodied, sweet cherry, mint, touch of blackberry with a long dry finish that carries an equal blend of blackberry and mint. A dry sipper for cab sauv drinkers, otherwise a very suitable companion with prime rib, T-bones, seared and roasted back ribs, beefy sideribs or all-beef burgers - could be a quaffer. It's a rewarding drink-now and has great potential if cellared at least two years to bring out even more complexity.

ALFREDO ROCA PINOT NOIR 2005, San Rafael, Argentina, 13.0% D, #032979 $13.95 (Tasted April 4, 2007)

A Vintages release on March 31, 2007 described as "... this is an unbelievable value. This dry, light-bodied Pinot has lovely cherry, cola and earth notes. It is a delicious every-day red to enjoy with chicken or fish dishes." The label says "100% Pinot Noir shows deep crimson colour, rich black cherry aroma with a hint of rose and a slight touch of oak. .. full-bodied... fresh with a ripe plum note." Natalie MacLean gives it 88/100 saying "Aromas of jammy-ripe fruit. Medium-bodied and easy-drinking. Terrific price! Pair with: chicken, salmon." RP of Winecurrent gives it four (of 5) saying "Serve this to me blind, and I wouldn't have thought it was a Pinot Noir... But forget the variety and you have a really attractive big red, with dense fruit flavours and notes of tar, smoke, and chocolate.... go for a hearty dish like coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon." My notes: Pinot Noir is a varietal listed only for the Alfredo Roca Reserva label and, since the tastings show some controversy, perhaps the grapes used are those not qualifying for the Reserva label? A deep ruby with a 'grenache' hue and equal parts aromatic raspberry, strawberry and smoke easily noticed once the cork is pulled. Let breathe for at least twenty minutes in the glass. Medium-bodied with long legs on the glass and a bright sumptious texture with mild tobacco and earth flavourings hiding the dark berry. The finish is a firm smoky berry with a dry texture and slight acid. Not a sipper, have with roast turkey, rack of lamb, or veal osso buco... but not chicken or fish. A 'process' driven Pinot.... I didn't care for it.

DEEN DE BORTOLI VAT 8 SHIRAZ 2004, New South Wales, Australia, 13.5% D, #621649 $15.20 (Retasted April 2, 2007)

A General listing and LCBO Staff pick this week. The label says "This generously flavoured Shiraz displays concentrated ripe berry and black fruit characters with firm tannins softened and balanced for twelve months in oak." My notes: Last tasted March 2006 with the comment '... a soft spicy nose with bright black fruit flavours carrying into a smooth lip-smacking finish with some spice left over... a house staple..'. A new label for the same vintage at about the same price and similar flavours but not as smooth and with more peppery spice in the flavour. The finish has a dry, distinct tar finish. A vivid ruby colour, full-bodied and gutsier overall from the previous tasting. An LCBO staff pick but not mine. This followon inventory doesn't match the earlier product in sippability - should be okay with pizzas or burgers. For my taste, not a value.

SCHOLZ VINTNERS 'THE WILLOWS' SHIRAZ 2002, Barossa, Australia, 14.5% XD, #015826 $32.95 (Tasted April 1, 2007)

A Vintages release on March 17, 2007 described as "The 2002 Shiraz (from 70-year-old vines) is a big, explosively rich effort offering an inky/ruby/purple color, loads of charcoal-infused cassis flavors, lush, concentrated opulence, abundant fruit, and surprisingly moderate alcohol for such a flavorful, rich Barossa Shiraz. It should drink well for a decade. 93/100 (Robert Parker Jr. , October 2005)" The label says "Peter and Michael Scholz selected premium fruit from best Shiraz blocks... using American oak .. to enhance ..spicy cinnamon hints. .... full of flavour... definitely not shy. .." My notes: Quickly sold out in my area but I was able to pick one up in Clarkson for tasting. An inky ruby with a purple hue and has a soft nose of black cherry and smoky rosewood, bright without bite. A wonderful lush texture on the first sip and loads of fully ripened black fruit with a polite edge so that it flows over and around the taste buds. Finishes smooth, dry with slight licorice, a touch of pepper. Very sippable with a forward richness yet not aggressive - there's a need to pause with each sip, easily quaffable but that would be a shame. Plan for a special meal: lamb shanks in a savoury sauce, a pepper steak, ribs simmered until the meat falls freely, rare beef tenderloin, beef bourguignon, a starter of french onion soup. Cellaring isn't needed unless you had a chance to stock up... then I envy you.