Friday, July 22, 2011

A Blind Tasting, July 2011: 4 Tasted of 4

The Start
The Finish
An excuse to stay in an air conditioned suite rather than venturing into 40oC plus humidity is an impromptu wine tasting. Four Sauvignon Blancs expected to be light, fruity, dry with enough depth, texture and finish to quench our thirsts. The remainder of J-T’s Entourage (#234161) from yesterday was on hand for backup.

Two of the wines came from a recent excursion in Niagara Peninsula, one is from a six-pack offered by Tawse Estate and one is from the LCBO not as a benchmark nor ringer but as a style possibly differing from Niagara’s. How do these match tastes that have become accustomed to New Zealand or the Loire Sauvignon Blancs? 

Conclusion: Other countries have set our standard for Sauvignon Blanc that biases my preferences and likely shows in the results below. I do prefer the dry tanginess, the terroir and depth of a Sancerre as well as the in-your-face true fruitiness of a Marlborough. Whether Ontario has the climate or terroir to offer equivalents is uncertain nor is it obligatory to mimic the styles. But a grape is a grape and its wine should show distinct typicity with no ambiguity.


My opinion, Ww
btw my BH and I agreed on the top and bottom.

THE LINEUP :

  • Legends Estate Reserve ‘Lizak Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 91-2  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $19.15
  • the Foreign Affair Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 80  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $25.15
  • Tawse Sauvignon Blanc 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 80  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $24.94
  • McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 79  --  V, Adelaide Hills, Australia, #225441  $19.95
(V - Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

TAWSE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Vineland, Ontario, 10.3% D, #Winery  $24.95  (Tasted July 21, 2011)

1,000 bottles produced:  My notes: A scant floral aroma - not enough to identify - from a light blond colour. The film is firm on the glass producing a ring of slow tears from a fragmenting rim. The first sip pushes a sharpness in front of slight flavours of straw and melon - a touch of sweet, light to medium-bodied and more prominent offchill. The finish has a hint of dry chalk and gooseberry. Pair with light seafood, a buffet table of appetizers: shrimp ring - no sauce, 3-corner sandwiches and fried squid or scampi. A drink now.  80 

 
LEGENDS ESTATE ‘LIZAK VINEYARDS’ RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5% D,  #Winery  $19.15  (Tasted July 21, 2011)


Owned and operated by the Lizak family. The back label says:  ‘… dominated by tropical notes of melon, pineapple, lime and a hint of passion fruit.’  My notes: A blond with a possible greenish tint, a delicate colour. A firm film crystallizing at the rim then forming slow tears and lacy islands, medium-bodied. The nose develops nicely over a short minute filling the bowl with nettles and soft gooseberries, making sipping more attractive. The burst of acid on the first sip refreshes and leaves a flavour of freshly pressed, almost ripe gooseberries lingering on the palate. Eyes closed this could easily be a New Zealand SB although there’s a touch of rose in the scent. Have with whitefish filets or shellfish - a lightly curried bowl of bearded mussels. Cellaring for a few years should do well.  91

THE FOREIGN AFFAIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.1% D,  #Winery  $25.15  (Tasted July 21, 2011)

Partial grape drying (appassimento) is used for concentrated flavours and fuller body. A Tasting Note from the winery has "the drying process has concentrated the varietal character.... wonderful lemon, lime and herbs on the nose.... etc."  My notes: A mid new gold colour, crisp and clean, with some visual interest. The nose is on the ripe side of delicate gooseberry and dissipates quickly. The film is firm delaying the start of tears which slowly accumulate sufficiently to drain the rim leaving small globules. The first sip fills the mouth with a dry mineral, a moderate tang and a soft blandness - the finish starts and ends consistent with the first sip. Overall this is medium-bodied with moderate acid, scarce on fruit. 80

MCWILLIAM'S MOUNT PLEASANT ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 13.0% D, #225441  $19.95  (Tasted July 21, 2011)  CS

A Vintages wine with an unknown Release date. The label says ‘…generous passion fruit and lime flavours… a touch of mineral complexity.’  My notes:  ‘A blond with a possible greenish tint, a delicate colour’ as above. The nose has a blandness that is difficult to ignore - as the chill subsides there is some gooseberry creeping through. The film laces at the top and quickly runs slow tears and fragmented islands, medium-bodied. Off-fruit flavours of the first sip and pithy ending leaves a negative impression as a sipper, however, there is a tangy dryness at the start that provides interest.  Pairing with steamed cod or grilled tilapia OK could provide a moderate freshness with a meal.  79

Monday, July 18, 2011

Niagara Trip, July 2011: 15 Tasted of 15

Legends Estate
It was the first trip ever that I've been 'wined out' but eight wineries, 4 - 5 tastings per, in two days will do it.
 
Foreign Affair
Reservations at the Inn on the Twenty were made a month ago. Tickets for an Irish comedy, Drama at Inish, in Niagara-on-the-Lake were waiting for us at the Court House Theatre Box Office for the Saturday matinée - and - we incidentally pass several wineries, on the north side of the QEW for a change: Legends Estate, Foreign Affair, Harbour Estate, Strewn Winery, Stratus Vineyards and a new one added along the way, Hinterbrook Estate. Cave Spring and Henry of Pelham made up the eight. (Map)



Harbour Estate
Henry of Pelham
And of course there was Jordan Station, one of our favourite places to wander among the Galleries, the Fudge Shop, Aroma shop,  etc. as well as the Inn on the Twenty restaurant for dinner and breakfast both  included in our overnight lodging. There have been so many tweets mentioning Stone Road Grille near Mary Street on Niagara Stone Road we made sure to phone ahead for Saturday reservations. What wonderful food paired with stellar (Ontario) wines! A new one (to us), Charles Baker Riesling 2009, was outstanding.
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The wines listed below, all but one available only at the winery, were brought back for more relaxed tasting.


Cheers, Ww


THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, rosés, sparkles and other:
  • Legends Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 90-2  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $18.15
  • the Foreign Affair Temptress 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $45.20
  • Stratus Red 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 88  --  V, NOTL, Ontario, #131037 $44.20
  • the Foreign Affair Dream 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $29.15
  • Strewn Winery
  • Legends Reserve Malbec 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 78  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $19.15
 

  • Legends Estate Reserve ‘Lizak Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore,  91-2  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $19.15
  • Cave Spring ‘Dolomite’ Riesling 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 89-1  --  O, Jordan, Ontario, #Winery  $17.15
  • Legends Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  89-1  --  O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery  $20.15
  • the Foreign Affair Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $30.15 
  • Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling 2008 VQA Short Hills Bench, 86-1  --  O, St. Catharines, Ontario, #Winery  $14.95
  • Strewn ‘Terroir’ Riesling Gewurztraminer 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 86  --  O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $17.15
  • Strewn Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 80  --  O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $12.15
  • the Foreign Affair Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 80  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $25.15
  • Stratus Vineyards
  • Stratus Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 78  --  O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $29.20


    Hinterbrook Estate
  • Hinterbrook Winery Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, 90-2  --  O, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #Winery  $16.20
(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, O - other, r-v - Rating-Value)



TASTINGS:



STRATUS RED 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 13.5% XD, #Winery  $44.20  (Tasted July 30, 2011)  CS


A Tasting Note from the winery says "[2007] was ideal for the art of assemblage... Predominately Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, other varieties were included to lift the body and nose. etc."  Konrad Ejbich gave it 5 stars.  My notes:  The colour and nose has a delightful freshness of Cabernet Franc, a bright cherry hue and a distinct red liquorice and tangy redcurrant scent. The film appears thin on the bowl but takes some time to fall shedding long tears. Medium-bodied, the first sip covers the palate with an astringent mouthfeel. A red currant accent to red cherry flavour makes for an interesting start but soon begs for at least finger food to quell the acid that hides the silk and dominates the finish, not quite a teeth-cleaner but close. Pair with grilled salmon, Swiss Chalet chicken with half ribs or veal scallopini and stewed beets. Further cellaring may accentuate the acid and fade the fruit - I‘d try a year at a time.  88



STRATUS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 13.5% XD, #Winery  $29.20  (Tasted July 28, 2011)


My notes:  A slight nose of white peach, a mid gold colour and a firm film that edges down slowly before breaking into lacy islands introduces this white. There’s a penetrating tang to the first sip, a silky texture, full-bodied with flavours of stone fruit and a spicy wild honey. The finish stays true to the first sip fading slowly to a spicy mineral note.  An unusual sipper, unpleasant or an acquired taste - not likely to add to a meal - try with seafood. May be past peak. 78


STREWN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 11.6% XD, #Winery  $12.15  (Tasted July 31, 2011)
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The back label describes the wine as ‘…the best of the old and new world styles. Melon, tropical fruits and summer herbs…’. Joe Will is the winemaker.  My notes: A polished mid gold in the glass with a hint of green and a soft, just perceptible, aroma of nettles and herbs. A swirl leaves a thin film that quickly recedes leaving lacy islands. The first sip has a flavour of Boston lettuce and lemons - a taste to acquire and may limit sippers. The finish ends with a fresh acid level, mineral and slight chalk. Pair with grilled seafood: tilapia filets, cod or haddock on lemon rice or serve with a cold buffet. Without nibbles I find the texture interesting but couldn’t acquire the taste. Not for cellaring.  80


STREWN ‘TERROIR’ RIESLING GEWURZTRAMINER 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, NOTL, Ontario, 11.6% XD, #Winery  $17.15  (Tasted August 5, 2011)


The back label describes the wine as ‘…Delightful floral aromas and tropical fruit flavours…’. Joe Will is the winemaker and the blend is 60% Riesling and 40% Gewurztraminer.  My notes: The floral is distinctive (but where in Niagara Peninsula does it come from?) and blended with the clean edge showing. The colour is a green tinged light blond and there’s an immediate scalloping of the film that falls in long slow tears. A touch of natural sweet roundness, a touch of puckering and flavours of citrus, candy floss and green apple can be a social mixer - ends dry. Don’t vision Alsace nor sense petrol… this is Niagara. The floral and well balanced sweet and acid should cellar for several years.  Pair with an Asian mixed buffet or sushi bar or add a squeeze of lime and cubes for a hot summer on the patio.  86
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HENRY OF PELHAM RESERVE RIESLING 2008 VQA Short Hills Bench, St. Catharines, Ontario, 11.5% XD, #Winery  $14.95  (Tasted August 5, 2011)
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The back label describes the wine as ‘…best reflect the relationship of soil, climate and grape variety… from older lower yielding vineyards…’.  My notes:  A light blond, crisp and clean, with a green hue. The nose has a touch of nettles and a vegetable core. The film covers thinly leaving a lacy rim and a few slow tears. A very dry first sip leaving a parched palate with flavours of green apple and slight pear. Finishing chalk dry this preludes more cleansing if a sipper or refreshing if waiting for the next bite of grilled sole. Although not objectionable as a sipper it feels more comfortable with a charcutier or fried octopus, veal schnitzel or a ham slice. Cellaring for a few years should be OK.   86


CAVE SPRING ‘DOLOMITE’ RIESLING 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Jordan, Ontario, 11.0% D, #Winery  $17.15  (Tasted July 18, 2011)
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The back label describes the wine as ‘…named for layers of dolomite limestone unique to the Niagara Escarpment.… [and] contribute to the intense aromatics and mineral textures…’.  My notes: The 2009 is a combination of grapes from Twenty Mile Bench (63%) and from Beamsville Bench (37%).  For the 2007 the majority of grapes were from the Niagara Escarpment. There’s a light gold colour, a film that recedes from a quickly disintegrating rim and a touch of honey to a tangy lime scent. Luscious lime and melon are edged with a chalky mineral that becomes more pronounced as the finish lets the fruit fade. A nicely rounded fullness on the palate gives substance for flexible pairing with a variety of seafood: telapia, halibut (if you can find it) or bbq’d chicken. Went well with  Cuban Cod and even Delmonte Mango Realfruits.  It's quite fresh now and should cellar nicely for a few more years.  89


HINTERBROOK WINERY ROSÉ 2010 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, NOTL, Ontario, 14.0% D, #Winery  $16.20  (Tasted August 18, 2011)


The back label states: ‘This Cabernet Franc Rosé was pressed after three days of skin soak resulting in optimal colour lending red fruit notes to the taste. … aromas of strawberries and white pepper. Etc. ‘  My notes: Crushed strawberry colour or a delicate shade of a tea rose and very polished. As well, there’s a scent of crushed strawberries and a gradually receding film. Full-bodied with pronounced strawberry and peach flavours, an acid lining is the start of a long finish. Texture is silky on the lips and ends with a touch of candy floss and a soft pepper edge. As a sipper this would likely have interest for most. I’d pair with  fried/grilled whitefish, e.g. cod , or pickerel, but have a backup wine.  A few years in the cellar could give acids more prominence - sipping well now.  90
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LEGENDS ESTATE RESERVE MALBEC 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D,  #Winery  $19.15  (Tasted July 28, 2011)


Owned and operated by the Lizak family. The back label says:  ‘Malbec has a concentrated black plum almost smoky aroma with a nuance of black cherry… extended barrel ageing.’  My notes: A deep plum colour and aromas of spicy cherry and red liquorice. Swirls a firm film with long fast legs, the first sip, and continuing sips, has a strong pungent attack sustained through a long finish with bitter fruit lasting then fading slowly to a dry brambly end. A rough sipper, not  appealing… would be okay paired with a well seasoned T-bone or bbq’d ribs. Would not benefit from cellaring nor saving as a drink now.  78  PS. Add two points if aired overnight - some of the acid mellows.
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LEGENDS ESTATE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 14.0% D,  #Winery  $20.15  (Tasted August 11, 2011)
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Owned and operated by the Lizak family. The back label says: ‘… 100% barrel fermented chardonnay with strong aromatics of mineral and buttered toast. … hints of dried … apricots and raisins… full-bodied and smooth…etc.’  My notes: A yellow gold in the glass with slow tears accumulating at the rim then falling. There’s some mild honey and butter in a light lemon nose. Flavours of mild, smooth butterscotch overlaid with sharp acids, full-bodied with lightly flavoured finish ending warm and dry. Fully oaked and for those remembering California Chardonnays - a limited audience. Have with Swiss Chalet chicken or a cheesy chicken pizza with extra cheese and onions. Cellaring another four years should be OK.  89


LEGENDS ESTATE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D,  #Winery  $18.15  (Tasted August 10, 2011)
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Owned and operated by the Lizak family. The back label says: ‘… aroma … has sweet currant, spice and even a hint of tobacco… extra long finish.’  My notes: Close your eyes and this is not an under $20 Niagara red…  the colour is deep, smoky tinged and opaque, the nose has pleasing blend of smoke, light blackberry and currant. The first sip confirms a medium-bodied to full- silky smooth combination of plum, black berry with acids matching the tannin and flavours so the finish lasts forever leaving some smoothness. Pair with mostly beef entrées or beef stews, shank of lamb or French onion soup with a tenderloin chaser. Cellaring another five years should be fine. Not as much fruit the next day - and a suspicion of Baco Noir?   90


LEGENDS ESTATE ‘LIZAK VINEYARDS’ RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5% D,  #Winery  $19.15  (Tasted July 21, 2011)
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Owned and operated by the Lizak family. The back label says:  ‘… dominated by tropical notes of melon, pineapple, lime and a hint of passion fruit.’  My notes:  A blond with a possible greenish tint, a delicate colour. A firm film crystallizing at the rim then forming slow tears and lacy islands, medium-bodied. The nose develops nicely over a short minute filling the bowl with nettles and soft gooseberries, making sipping more attractive. The burst of acid on the first sip refreshes and leaves a flavour of freshly pressed, almost ripe gooseberries lingering on the palate. Eyes closed this could easily be a New Zealand SB although there’s a touch of rose in the scent. Have with whitefish filets or shellfish - a lightly curried bowl of bearded mussels. Cellaring for a few years should do well.  91
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THE FOREIGN AFFAIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.1% D,  #Winery  $25.15  (Tasted July 21, 2011)

Partial grape drying (appassimento) is used for concentrated flavours and fuller body. Tasting Notes from the winery say "the drying process has concentrated the varietal character.... wonderful lemon, lime and herbs on the nose.... etc."  My notes: A mid new gold colour, crisp and clean, with some visual interest. The nose is on the ripe side of delicate gooseberry and dissipates quickly. The film is firm delaying the start of tears which slowly accumulate sufficiently to drain the rim leaving small globules. The first sip fills the mouth with a dry mineral, a moderate tang and a soft blandness - the finish starts and ends consistent with the first sip. Overall this is medium-bodied with moderate acid, scarce on fruit. 80


THE FOREIGN AFFAIR CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.1% D,  #Winery  $30.15  (Tasted August 21, 2011)

Fermented in French oak barrels with partial grape drying (appassimento) is used for concentrated flavours and fuller body. Tasting Notes from the winery say "On the nose, this wine shows wonderful peach, lemon, lime and fresh cream... Green apple, pineapple, mushroom and crème brûlée flavours fill the palate...etc."   My notes:This has a pleasing blond colour with a just perceptible apple caramel nose. The film is firm and gradually forms long legs before sliding lacily down the bowl. On the full side of medium-bodied with a silky texture, nicely tart and flavours of green apple and caramel finishing warm, tart and softly herbal. Sip with nibbles from a tray of aged cheddar or saltry blue. Pairing with white fish entrées would capitalize on the light acids or have with a charcuterie as a first course. Cellaring for several years is likely.  89


THE FOREIGN AFFAIR TEMPTRESS 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 14.2%  D,  #Winery  $45.20  (Tasted July 30, 2011)

Fermented in French oak barrels with partial grape drying (appassimento) is used for concentrated flavours and fuller body.  Tasting Notes from the winery say "...very deep, almost opaque black/purple colour, this wine provides phenomenal intensity on the nose showing cassis, plum, red and black cherry and caramel...etc.` My notes: Almost opaque and a deep ruby in colour.  A soft burst of strawberry berry anise scent is a pleasing intro to the first sip. On the light side of full-bodied with thin silk and mild tannins balanced with bright acid that together carry the fruit to a long, dry, steely end.  Would pair nicely with sliced grilled pork tenderloin with a side of roasted mushrooms and cherry tomatoes. A ‘cool climate’ red with body and character benefiting from the appassimento method.  Very similar to the Stratus Red 2007 but fuller with marginally less acid.  89


THE FOREIGN AFFAIR DREAM 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.4%  D,  #Winery  $29.15  (Tasted August 2, 2011).

Fermented in French oak barrels with partial grape drying (appassimento) is used for concentrated flavours and fuller body.  Tasting Note from the winery says "... this wine's focus on the nose, showing blackcurrant, plum, blackberry and cocoa. etc."  My notes: Airing for twenty minutes allows the nose to settle. Meanwhile, a swirl gives a firm film with many tears that drop slowly eventually leaving a lacy rim. Now, the nose is cherry liqueur accented with subtle herbs de Provence. The first sip is smooth with an underlying sharpness supported by fine tannins and ends with mild berry and leather then metallic tones. Cherry, blueberry and dark chocolate flavours have interest as sipping partners or with a charcuterie before moving to a rare meat entrée covered with a rich red wine sauce and accompanied by puréed potatoes or parsnips. Cellaring for a short while could work but primarily a drink now.  87

Friday, July 01, 2011

July 2011 Wines: 23 Tasted of 23

If you’re near an LCBO drop in and pick up a copy of their Food & Drink - not so much for their magazine but for the insert that’s included in the cello wrapped package. I’m referring to the yearly edition of Wine Country Ontario’s 2011 Year-round Travel Guide. It’s a staple for planning seasonal trips along Ontario’s Wine Routes. Alternatively, if a computer is handy click on Wine Country Ontario  and the icon on the Homepage that represents their information packed booklet  WCO:The 2011 Year-round Travel Guide .
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With the number of new wineries each year the Guide is a convenient update with photos, short histories, a list of winemakers, opening hours and a keyed map for quickly locating individual wineries and websites. Advertisements in this publication aren’t the commercial variety - well actually they are but in this case they pictorialize events, accommodations, eateries and nearby historic sites that could be your introduction to the wine country of Prince Edward County in the East through Niagara Peninsula to Lake Erie North Shore in the West, about 580 kilometres, a trip made more enjoyable if planned to include each wine region. 

The Lineup this month includes leftovers from June. There also are several VQA labels from wineries new to me and recommended by Ontario wine critics. I took advantage of Tawse’ offer of six ‘summer sippers’ delivered free of charge to Ontario residences. David Lawrason rated Alvento’s reds high which encouraged me to take a look at their wines. I've included 3 reds and 3 vintages of Viognier. Wines can be ordered through their website.
Grab a bottle on the way home and sip comparing your notes with mine… or just enjoy paired with a home cooked meal.   



Cheers, Ww
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The Start
The Finish
Addendum: 
The Alvento viogniers plus one unknown (Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2009) are setup for blind tasting this aft (July 9th). Not the 120 wines tasted in a day by career tasters but fun nonetheless and it keeps me off the streets. The results are below. 


THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, sparkles and other:
  • Gigondas La Cave l’Intense Gigondas 2007,  93-2  --  V, Rhône, France, #216382 $26.95
  • Lealtanza Reserva Seleccion Rioja 2004,  92-3  --  V, Rioja, Spain, #208223 $17.95  
  • Alvento 'Elige' 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 91-2  --  V, Vineland, Ontario, #226019  $19.95
  • Alvento 'Sondra' Merlot Cabernet Franc 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, 91-2  --  V, Ontario, #207332 $23.95 
  • Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir 2009, 91-2  -- V, Rutherford, California, #130138 $26.95
  • Vina la Rosa ‘La Capitana’ Carmènere 2009,  90-2  --  V, Cachapoal Valley, Chile,  #169896 $13.95
  • L.A. Cetto ‘Valle de Guadalupe’ Zinfandel 2008, 88-2  --  V, Baja, Mexico, #405605  $10.95
  • Compagnia di Volpaia Citto 2008,  85-1  --  V, Tuscany, Italy, #134817 $11.70
  • Tawse Cabernet Franc 'Laundry Vineyard' 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore,  83  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $31.95
  • Alvento 'Aria' Nebbiolo 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  82  --  V, Vineland, Ontario, #167874  $21.35 


  • Tawse Chardonnay 'Estate Vineyards' 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $29.95 
  • Alvento 'Vio' Viognier 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 88 --  O, Vineland, Ontario,  #Winery  $25.95
  • Tawse Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $19.95
  • Sue-Ann Staff Estate Robert’s Block Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87  --  V, St. Catharines, Ontario, #231415 $20.95
  • Alvento ‘Vio’ Viognier 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84 --  O, Vineland, Ontario,  #Winery  $23.95
  • Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2009, 83  --  V, Languedoc, France, #712638 $15.95
  • Alvento ‘Vio’ Viognier 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82 --  O, Vineland, Ontario,  #Winery  $19.95 
  • Donini Collezione Rubicone Trebbiano Chardonnay 2009, 80  --  G, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, #160317 (1000mL) $9.45 
  • Tawse Sauvignon Blanc 'Laundry Vineyard' 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 80  --  O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery  $24.95   
  • McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 79  --  V, Adelaide Hills, Australia, #225441 $19.95


  • Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  85  --  V, Vineland, Ontario,  #172643  $14.95


  • Jackson-Triggs Entourage Silver Series Brut Méthode Classique 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 92-2  --  V, NOTL, Ontario, #234161 $22.95 
  • Pierrel les Oressences Brut Champagne NV,  91  --  V, Epernay, France, #167502  $42.95 


(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, O - Other, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE SILVER SERIES BRUT MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, NOTL, Ontario, 12.0% XD, #234161  $22.95  (Tasted July 20, 2011)  CS

  A Vintages release on June 25, 2011.  My notes: A Vincor product and a blend of 70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay. First fermented in stainless steel tanks and then secondary fermentation in the bottle (Méthode Classique). A foam of minute, mid size & large bubbles burst in the glass then subside quickly with a mild aroma of buttered toast. A mid gold colour, the bubbles continue to provide a full spritz from the initial sip to well into a delayed finish. Clean pear and apple flavours combine with a steely mouthfeel and a chalk dry ending. Has a pleasing extra dry appeal for toasting good wishes, as an accompaniment with fresh oysters or as a refresher on a hot humid Ontario July day - a twist of lime is my preference.  Should cellar well into the next decade with deepening shadows and mellowing depth.  92

SUE-ANN STAFF ESTATE  ROBERT'S BLOCK RIESLING 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 11.0% XD, #231415  $20.95  (Tasted July 4, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on June 11, 2011. My notes: The website claims the grapes are ‘exclusively from the Estate vineyard’ in the Twenty Mile Bench area and yet the VQA is a wider source, the Niagara Peninsula.  Also ‘Selected yeasts’ were used for fermentation - a winemaker‘s choice. Crystal clear with a touch of green and a lightish scent of floral and lime in the nose. There’s no hint of sweet in the first taste altho’ with fried lime, cumin chili powder and cilantro seasoned tilapia it offered a milder touch compared to a NZ sauvignon blanc - amazing what buds will do when combined with food. The finish ends with delicate mineral, lime and dry on the palate. Cellaring should be OK but not likely to add more character.  87


DONINI COLLEZIONE RUBICONE ‘TREBBIANO CHARDONNAY’ 2009, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, 12.0% D, #160317 (1000mL) $9.45  (Tasted July 14, 2011)  CS

A General listing described as a white to be served with finger foods. A pale straw yellow colour; light aroma; green apple flavour, light body, short finish.  My notes: Recommended in a Tweet with a price that piqued my curiosity. A blond colour and an almost imperceptible aroma of apple. The first sip has a light flavour of green apple shifting quickly to a somewhat grassy and chalk dry mineral taste that stays until the next sip. Serve at an open bar as an economical finger food sipper. Becomes uninteresting in a short time. Paired OK with Swiss Chalet chicken breast and baked potato. A simple drink now.  80



ALVENTO WINERY , Vineland Station, Niagara Peninsula
Alvento Tying Party
Grapes are grown on the Alvento Winery's 16 acre waterfront vineyard at Harbour Jordan  on the Niagara Peninsula. The soil is a typical sandy loam and grapes are hand harvested then carefully sorted. Their website describes the processes for their wines as: Red wines follow a traditional vinification in temperature regulated stainless tanks with twice daily pumping. This is followed by malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tank then aged for 18-20 months in Burgundy Oak barrels. Clarification by egg whites.  Their white, 100% Viognier, follows crushing of the grapes with gentle pressing. The juice is clarified in stainless steel then fermented in 2/3 new French Oak barrel and 1/3 stainless steel. Juice is left on lees (sur lie) and stirred regularly into the wine (batonnage) - it is unfiltered.  I was interested in a vertical tasting of three Viognier vintages. An aside: Why pick a VQA of Niagara Peninsula if all of the grapes come from Lincoln Lakeshore? the location of Jordan Harbour.


The Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2009 was added as a 4th in the blind tasting.
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DOMAINE DES ASPES VIOGNIER 2009, Languedoc, France, 13.5%  XD, #712638  $15.95  ( Retasted July 9, 2011/Tasted April 23, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on March 19, 2011.   My notes:  A soft nose almost imperceptible - like sniffing cool water. A light blond colour with a thin film and slow tears. Much improved offchill.  The first sip has a pleasing astringency, a slight silk and a long refreshing acid with mild flavours of stone fruit. The finish retains the brightness ending pithy dry with stone fruit  flavour. Should be okay as a polite social sipper for a general crowd or on the summer patio, as an aperitif with a cold buffet mostly cheeses, sliced party meats or ‘pigs in a blanket’. Would not complement a hot meal well. A drink now.  83 



ALVENTO 'VIO' VIOGNIER 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.2% XD, #Winery  $23.95  (Tasted July 9, 2011)  CS
My notes: A deeper gold, but not ’old gold’, and a firm film leaving long legs from a lacy edge. There’s a scent of cool butter that accumulates as the bowl warms. A strong astringency fronts a first taste of mild clover honey and lemon that lasts awhile then ends dry edging citrus remnants. Went well with the cheddar cheese tray and a Quiznos Italian footlong. A mild nose and flavours take backseat to reasonable astringency that pairs well with assorted party foods. A drink now.  84  

ALVENTO 'VIO' VIOGNIER 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.5% XD, #Winery  $25.95  (Tasted July 9, 2011)  CS

. My notes: ‘Tiny bubbles in my wine’ - A Don Ho, Connie Frances or Dean Martin hit? This Viognier leaves tiny bubbles clinging to the glass while the film quickly fragments into a lacy islands.  A delicate spice aroma slowly accumulates, the colour is a crystal clear new gold and there’s a pungency in the first sip that gradually settles over a long finish that ends dry with savoury remnants of the first flavours - a combination of grapefruit, mild banana and faint cream. A Viognier lacking floral or fruit but still with interesting set of unique flavours when tasted solo - I recommend slightly off chill. Pair with seafood, mild chicken or cheesy pastas - went well with aged Balderson cheddar. Could develop more savoury depth if cellared a few years otherwise at peak now.  88

. ALVENTO 'VIO' VIOGNIER 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.0% XD, #Winery  $19.95  (Tasted July 9, 2011)  CS

. My notes: Fewer bubbles, which is neither here nor there, in this vintage. The colour is a light blond. The nose and flavour are similar but more delicate than the 2007. The film recedes more slowly but eventually separates into islands. The first sip is less pungent being nicely balanced with a savoury blend of white grapefruit and mild banana - no detectable cream this time. The finish is dry - a crisp, clean, refreshing sipper. Went nicely with a tray of new and aged cheddars and may with a buffet of sausage rolls, sliced meats, olives - may not hold its own for a hot meal. The fruit isn't dominant - there's more process present.  A drink now. 82   
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ALVENTO  'ARIA' NEBBIOLO 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.5% XD, #167874   $21.35  (Tasted July 12, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release and given the nod by David Lawrason in a Tweet. My notes: 100% Nebbiolo grapes hand picked from Alvento’s single vineyard in Niagara. Came with a price sticker of $25.95 so has been discounted. The nose leads to a mystery - just delicate enough for uncertainty and distinct enough for cherries, a silky character and soft earth tones. A ripe cherry colour with a suspicion of brick swirls a firm film flowing long slow legs. Sharp and silky, minimal fruit, mild tannin, lasting a long while then finishing extra dry. An oldworld Italian style having an acerbic prominence. A meal red rather than a sipper. Have with seasoned grilled beef, lamb shank or marinated pork (Asian Pork Chops). Also has a mystery of a future - if you like process another six years may settle the acids but what else happens is a question - I'd say it's past due.  82 .


ALVENTO 'SONDRA' 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.5% XD, #207332  $23.95  (Tasted July 7, 2011)  CS
A Vintages release on January 8, 2011.  Rated 88 by David Lawrason and described (undated) as ‘pleasant, nicely maturing mid-weight merlot, with considerable dill, tobacco, vanilla and wood spice on the nose. Not a fruit-driven wine, but appealing regardless… quite smooth, with dry but not austere tannin on the finish. Etc.’  My notes: A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. This deserves airing a half hour to dissipate minor bottle odours then a smoky wood and spicy plum accumulates. The colour has that aged ruby look, kind of sultry. A swirl sticks a firm film to the sides and sheds streams of long tears. The first sip is velvety smooth and herbal flavours combined with red cherries stirring lots of interest - then declines on a woody, vanilla combo ending dry, full of oldworld elegance.  A wine for savoury pasta dishes, veal scaloppini or schnitzel, pot roast - something in a red wine sauce. This may keep awhile longer however is drinking well now.  89   PS. I decanted and left this wine overnight. Another day and it has developed exotic flavours and a prolonged finish - which carries aromas and textures to coat the palate and an interesting blend of vanilla, dark fruit and fine tobacco. A super chameleon of a red and at least a 91. .


ALVENTO  'ELIGE' 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.5% XD, #226019  $19.95  (Tasted July 13, 2011)  CS


A Vintages release on June 11, 2011 with notes from David Lawrason  (November 2010) and a rating of 91. ‘… The nose is surprisingly intense, piquant and complex marrying 65% cabernet sauvignon blackcurrant, with (33%) cab franc tobacco, some (2%) merlot suppleness, and leathery, meaty Euro-inspired aromas. It's medium-full bodied, elegant and taut with some cabernet sauvignon greenness and edgy sourness on the finish… etc.’  My notes:  According to the LCBO this was by ‘Bodega Foster S.A.’ The blend for this vintage and for 2006 is a change from the previous vintages, 2004 & 2005, which was 60%, 20%, 20%. This is an opaque garnet hued ruby and a viscous film running long slow tears gives an impression of quiet elegance. The first sip takes a well balanced approach: a distinct tang, moderate tannins, black cherry/berry flavours and a slight dry wood. The flavour of just ripened fruit lasts a long while accompanied by a medium-bodied texture then ends quietly. I found it to be a refreshing sipper to serve to any crowd. Have with prime rib, lamb or tuna steak. Drinking well now, should cellar several years and I suspect will continue to improve.  91 

 
. TAWSE RIESLING 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 10.3% D, #Winery  $19.95  (Tasted July 6, 2011)  CS
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12,000 bottles produced:  My notes: Almost clear in the glass otherwise a faint blond and an aroma to match - perhaps faint lime. The film establishes itself well with a lacy edge and a few long slow tears. The first sip is where the flavour, texture and balanced acid is - a surprising lightish medium-bodied sipper and suited to the steamed lobster dish served tonight. The finish carries the tang well adding a touch of dry limey fullness to satisfy the plumpest lobster - & other white fish entrees. Not for cellaring.  87  

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TAWSE CHARDONNAY 'ESTATE VINEYARDS' 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.0% D, #Winery  $29.95  (Tasted July 7, 2011)   CS

6,800 bottles produced:  My notes: A yellow gold colour with a lightly sharp, butter grapefruit nose, a thin film with a lacy receding edge and a first sip that is well balanced with butter, acid and delicate lime/lemon/grapefruit flavours. The smoothness and flavours stay on the palate until fading, slowly, to a dry clay, mineral aftertaste. A polite sipper that couldn’t offend even an ABC imbiber. Have with light chicken or seafood dishes - beautiful before and after but faded with a chicken breast stuffed with brie, spinach and cheese. Cellaring for several years is likely - expect some softening and more butter, not too much flavour change.  89

TAWSE CABERNET FRANC 'LAUNDRY VINEYARD' 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Vineland, Ontario, 13.0% D, #Winery  $31.95  (Tasted July 19, 2011)  CS


7,600 bottles produced:  My notes: Perhaps this is an example of 'cool climate' or another euphemism for thin and moderately flavoured. The nose has a bright scent of cherries, the colour is a deep ruby and shows a film that runs quick tears before forming lacy islands suggestive of its lightness. The first sip is well balanced with tannins matching acid, dry with steely plum/berry flavours providing initial interest before fading to a woody cherry finish. More of a meal red than a sipper and a drink now. Pair with pork roast, prime rib or sweet Italian sausage.  83 .


TAWSE SAUVIGNON BLANC 'LAUNDRY VINEYARD' 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Vineland, Ontario, 10.3% D, #Winery  $24.95  (Tasted July 21, 2011)  CS



1,000 bottles produced:  My notes: A scant floral aroma - not enough to identify - from a light blond colour. The film is firm on the glass producing a ring of slow tears from a fragmenting rim. The first sip pushes a sharpness in front of slight flavours of straw and melon - a touch of sweet, light to medium-bodied and more prominent offchill. The finish has a hint of dry chalk and gooseberry. Pair with light seafood, a buffet table of appetizers: shrimp ring - no sauce, 3-corner sandwiches and fried squid or scampi. A drink now.  80 .

TAWSE SKETCHES ROSÉ 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.0% D, #Winery  $14.95  (Tasted July 13, 2011)  CS


My notes: This was recently tasted in May of this year. The colour is comparable to a Tavel rosé, a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Mourvèdre each grape being fermented separately. The Sketches Rosé, a blend of Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is crisper. The nose is a just-perceptible scent of white cherries. The first sip is quite tangy matching a green apple/light cherry flavour fading slowly as the finish carries the tartness, dry with a touch of fine silk. Perfect for quaffing on a sunny patio or having slow sips with cheese or tunafish sandwiches - also fresh oysters. A polished style for drinking now. 85


GIGONDAS LA CAVE L'INTENSE GIGONDAS 2007, Rhône, France, 15.0%  XD, #216382  $26.95  (Tasted July 4, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on June 11, 2011 and given 5 of 5 by Steven Spurrier of Decanter (Jan 2010) and bears a Decanter Gold Award on the label.  My notes:  The deep colour of black cherry and the aroma of spicy plum, bright blackberry, mild anise and warm forest floor. The first sip is rich with mint, blackberries, dark chocolate and a faint liquorice, a rewarding initial step and alluring for more.  The soft textures combine with the flavours lasting a full term finish. Pairing with grilled, roasted, bbq’d meats would satisfy the full-bodied nature of this red. Not aggressive nor bold but plays a balanced role in a meal. At peak and will cellar for a few more years possibly adding more depth. Very nice.  93 .

COMPAGNIA DI VOLPAIA CITTO 2008, Tuscany, Italy, 13.0%  XD, #134817  $11.70  (Tasted July 6, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on January 8, 2011.  A blend of Sangiovese and a small amount of Cabernet.  My notes:   Vintages hasn’t changed their notes since the 2007 vintage was tasted in October 2009. At that time it was priced at $13.95 and I rated it 90-2 saying ‘if you like bold and sharp it’s a sipper but more of a meal red…’ . This vintage has a crimson glow to the ruby and a film that sticks accumulating at the rim before shedding slow tears. The nose has a soft herb and leather scent - the first sip expresses dark fruit tho’ the tang surrounds the mouth masking some fruit. The tannins and texture carries enough to enjoy the blend. The finish is moderate ending with a mineral edge. This could keep a few years - today it would pair nicely with tomato and meat pasta dishes. Discounted appropriately.  85


LEALTANZA RESERVA SELECCION RIOJA 2004, Rioja, Spain,13.5%  D, #208223  $17.95  (Tasted July 23, 2011)  CS 


A Vintages release on March 19, 2011 rated 92+ by Jay Miller  (June 2010).  My notes:  The film is firm refusing to give up tears for several seconds. The colour is an opaque black cherry skin and the nose is a spicy black cherry with a hint of smoke. Full-bodied, silky smooth and rich flavours of black cherries touched with liquorice meet the palate with the concentration of a light Port then fade elegantly. Have with a Beef and Pork Ragú  sided with a Sweet Potato & Shallots Casserole. Already past seven years with fruit and character for another seven - drinking well now.  92

. BELLE GLOS MEIOMI PINOT NOIR 2009, Rutherford, California, 13.9% XD, #130138  $26.95  (Tasted July 2, 2011)  CS
 
. A Vintages release on June 11, 2011. Meomi means ’coast’ in the language of the Wappo tribe. A blend of 47% grapes from Sonoma County, 34% from Santa Barbara and 19% from Monterey County.  My notes:  A Caymus Vineyards label.  This was fantastic with a chicken/vegetable/asiago thin crust pizza and should do equally well with most fowl dishes. Smooth almost silky in texture, moderate in mint, plum and cherry flavours, acids and tannins with enough body to penetrate most tasty entrees. The nose is subdued but consistent with flavours. The finish decays slowly balanced until a dry, fruity ending - very nice. Not a strawberry bomb but a polite bomb nonetheless this has strong interest as a social sipper. Have with a tuna steak or veal schnitzel.  A drink now with a few years cellar potential. It's odd... a good red makes me sneeze. I'm sneezing a storm right now!   91



MCWILLIAM'S MOUNT PLEASANT ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 13.0% D, #225441  $19.95  (Tasted July 21, 2011)  CS

A Vintages wine with an unknown Release date. The label says ‘…generous passion fruit and lime flavours… a touch of mineral complexity.’  My notes:  ‘A blond with a possible greenish tint, a delicate colour’ as above. The nose has a blandness that is difficult to ignore - as the chill subsides there is some gooseberry creeping through. The film laces at the top and quickly runs slow tears and fragmented islands, medium-bodied. Off-fruit flavours of the first sip and pithy ending leaves a negative impression as a sipper, however, there is a tangy dryness at the start that provides interest.  Pairing with steamed cod or grilled tilapia OK could provide a moderate freshness with a meal.  79



VIÑA LA ROSA ‘LA CAPITANA’ BARREL RESERVE  CARMÈNERE 2009, Cachapoal, Chile, 14.5% XD, #169896  $13.95  (Tasted July 26, 2011)



Vintages’ release date wasn’t given.  My notes: An opaque ruby with a purple cast and a scent of red currants blessed by warm smoke. A swirl leaves a film that clings releasing a ring of slow tears while continuing to edge down. The first sip has bright acid, moderate tannins, mellow black cherry and plum flavours all carried through a warm drying finish. A very acceptable sipper and should do well with rack of lamb, T-bone or grilling steak. Cellaring for several years is likely to develop a smoother and deeper character.  90    



PIERREL LES ORESSENCES BRUT CHAMPAGNE NV, Epernay, France, 12.0% XD, #167502   $42.95  (Tasted July 17, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on June 25, 2011. My notes:  A beautiful golden bottle for our 50th Anniversary.  I hope it lives up to appearances. There’s a full head of bubbles on pouring and continuing through many sips. A mid gold colour, very dry from the first sip through a long finish with steady streams of fine bubbles. There’s a delicate apple pie with a touch of spicy caramel but not distinct aroma, a mild tartness from the bubbles - refreshing. The flavour is full crème caramel in a glass even finishing with a toasted taint and tart apple to maintain its freshness. Have to celebrate a special occasion or to pair with a slice of warmed apple pie, a shrimp plate or salty crackers. A drink now.  91 



L.A. CETTO ‘VALLE DE GUADALUPE’ ZINFANDEL 2008, Baja, Mexico,  14.5% XD, #405605  $10.95  (Tasted July 25, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on July 23, 2011. My notes: Without being side by side the Petite Sirah and Zinfandel could be mistaken one or t’other. The Zinfandel has less fruit on the nose. The colour and firmness of the film is the same running long tears from a fixed rim. Full-bodied with a first sip that has a pleasing nip, a soft tannin and body filling the mouth with mostly spicy blackberry. The finish starts with noticeable fruit fades modestly then ends warm and dry.  Pair with  Beef & Pork Ragu or a similar well seasoned stew. This should keep for five years or so but drinking well now - worth a try due to the price but I’d go yearly.  88