March 2011 Wines: 26 Tasted of 26

First Robin - the males come early

Black Creek near Acton

There’s a change in format starting with this blog entry. Up to now my approach was to reference mainly the wine descriptions listed by the LCBO. Whether current or not, whether I thought the reviewer/Panel was credible or not and whether there was any rating system used wasn’t considered. Although difficult at times I didn’t want to interject myself into ‘their’ comments.

Starting with this entry anonymous ratings and descriptions are no longer to be included. As well, only current reviews, ie. within two years of present day, will be referenced. Also, only ratings based on a 100 point system or those that provide a conversion to a 100 point system, eg. Rod Phillips’ 5 Star system, will be quoted .

If there is a basis for selecting a wine I’ve included it in my notes.  In the March Lineup there are four wines, three below $10, from Beppi Crosariol’s Decanter of February 26th and three are related to Tweets from Robert Parker Jr. 

Cheers, Ww
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 THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, rosés, sparkles and other:

• Cline ‘Los Carneros’ Syrah 2006, 95-3  --  V, Sonoma, California, #955435 $17.95
• Wente ‘Southern Hills’ Livermore Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 92-3  --  G,  California, USA, #301507 $16.95 
• Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006, 92-2  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #356220  $49.95 
• Perrin & Fils ‘Les Sinards’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007,  91-1  --  V, Orange, France, #005975 (375 mL)  $19.95
• St. Hallett Gamekeeper’s Shiraz/Grenache 2009, 88-1  --  V, Barossa, Australia, #024117  $14.95 
• Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Merlot 2007,  88-1  --  V, Healdsburg, California, #135384 $19.95
• J. Lohr `Los Osos` Merlot 2007,  88-1  --  V, Paso Robles, California, #027516 $19.95 
• Ridgepoint Wines Cabernet Merlot 2006 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 86-1  --  G, Vineland, Ontario, #101519 $13.95
• J.P. Chenet Premier de Cuvée Merlot Cabernet 2009,  82  --  G,  Languedoc, France, #621995 $11.95 
• Southbrook Vineyards `Triomphe`Syrah 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  81  --  V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario,  #129809  $24.95 
  
• Torbreck Woodcutter’s Shiraz 2008,  81 (Cellar) --  V, Barossa Valley, Australia, #927533  $27.95
• Château Ducla Bordeaux Supérieur 2008, 80  --  V, Bordeaux, France, #162461 $14.95             

   

• Leth Vineyards ‘Steinagrund’ Gruner Veltliner 2009,  91-2  --  V,  Wagram, Austria, #207282  $16.95
• Conundrum 2009, 91-2 --  V, Rutherford, California, #694653 $23.95
  
• Wente ‘Morning Fog’ Chardonnay 2009, 89-2 --  G, Livermore Valley, California, #175430  $16.95  
• Ironstone ‘Obsession’ Symphony 2009,  89-2  --  V,  Murphys, California, #355784 $14.95
• Auntsfield ‘Long Cow’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009,  87  -  V,  Marlborough, NZ, #663286  $19.95
• Fuzion Alta Torrontés Pinot Grigio 2010,  84  --  G, Mendoza, Chile, #168419  $8.95  
  
• Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Estate Grown 2010,  84  --  G, Casablanca, Chile, #275909 $8.95
• Torbreck Roussanne/Marsanne/Viognier 2008,  84 --  V, Barossa Valley, Australia, #186478 $19.95
• Vina Tarapaca Sauvignon Blanc 2010,  83  --  G, Isla de Maipo, Chile, #414185  $8.95* 
• Kendall-Jackson Vinter’s Reserve ‘Summation’ 2009,  83  --  V, Santa Rosa, California, 13.5%  D, #210195 $19.95 
• Ridgepoint Wines Monticello Bianco 2009 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 82  --  G, Vineland, Ontario, #218651  $13.95 
• Danzante Pinot Grigio 2009,  76  --  G, Venezie, Italy,  #026906 $14.45    

• Skuttlebutt Shiraz/Merlot Rosé 2008, 91-2  -- V, Margaret River, Australia, #169383 $16.95 
  

• Nino Franco Brut Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2009, 90-2  --  V, Veneto, Italy, #349662 $18.95   

 (G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)

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TASTINGS:
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NINO FRANCO BRUT PROSECCO DI VALDOBBIADENE 2009, Veneto, Italy, 11.0% XD, #349662  $18.95  (Tasted March 29, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on January 22, 2011.  My notes: Last tasted in May 2007 with the note “Quaffing of any bubbly should be a pleasing sensation rather than a tonsil tensing exercise…”.  In spite of being $2 more if the style continues I don’t expect much change. The cork shows the vintage year as 2009. Effervescent on opening and pouring then subsiding to a few slow streams of fine bubbles collecting at the rim. The colour is a pale blond with a green tint and aromas are of slight grapefruit and pastry, dry to the senses. Not 'tonsil tensing' but pleasingly tart on sip and swallow, mildly silky to the touch and finishing long and dry - all characteristics needed for a celibratory toaster or a companion to fresh oysters. I didn’t need an occasion to sip and hard not to quaff. Should keep from several years and perhaps gaining more silk.  90

TOMMASI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2006, Veneto, Italy, 15.0% D, #356220   $49.95  (Tasted March 20, 2011)  CS


A Vintages release on November 27, 2010.  My notes: A gift waiting for the right occasion and a small family gathering prompted the opening. There’s a bright whiff of prunes, faint almond and liquorice and an even set of long legs on the glass. A piercing taste of fermented plums and cherry preserves integrated well with fine tannins, drying to the palate and continuing through a long, hot,  flavourful finish. Paired with pastry wrapped beef tenderloin in a rich merlot / balsamic sauce this held its own, then some. Fruit and process are well balanced. Should cellar for many years but drinking well now.  92

WENTE ‘MORNING FOG’ CHARDONNAY 2009, Livermore Valley, California, 13.5% D, #175430  $16.95  (Tasted March 17, 2011)  CS
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My notes:  The price is holding fairly steady since the 2005 vintage was tasted in June 2007 and apparently I’m favouring this Chardonnay over several vintages, the 2008 being super at 92 and much improved over the 2006 at 86 and the 2005 that wasn‘t recommended. Previously a blend of Chardonnay and small percentages of gewurztraminer and semillon this vintage is 100% chardonnay from two regions: 87 % Livermore Valley and 13% Arroyo Seco.  Half was fermented in oak then aged sur lie and half in stainless steel and aged several months on lees retaining the Livermore Valley terroir. This has a soft leesy scent slightly spicy with some floral, not much there though pleasing. A firm film with a swirl and the first sip has a moderate fullness, a hint of caramel, a delicate drying touch on the palate then tangy pear and apple flavours that start the finish declining slowly ’til a slight straw and fruit remain. The texture, tang and terroir make this an interesting quaffer. Elegant at the table for its shine and refreshing eloquence. Several years cellaring may bring more depth and silk.  89

TORBRECK WOODCUTTER'S SHIRAZ 2008, Barossa Valley, Australia, 14.5% XD, #927533  $27.95  (Tasted March 18, 2011)  CS


A Vintages release on January 8, 2011. My notes: A Vintages release on January 8, 2011. This has a dense ruby colour with an acrid taint to a blackberry scent and shows a firm film ringed with fast tears. There’s an unusual accent of burnt berries, blue- and black-, with a sharpness on the back of the throat overriding an underlining of smooth, full-bodied fruit. The finish carries this brashness through a long finish that ends with a hot, dry, crushed berry seed finish. Not a sipper and when paired with a flavourful BMT Sub Sandwich it accentuated the red peppers uncomfortably - do not pair with spicy entrées. Perhaps if cellared five+ years some mellowing may occur.  81  (Cellar)
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TORBRECK ROUSSANNE/MARSANNE/VIOGNIER 2008, Barossa Valley, Australia, 14.0% XD, #186478  $19.95  (Tasted March 10, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on November 27, 2010.  My notes:Torbreck’s Juvenile (red) was recommended in a Tweet by Robert Parker but wasn’t available at an Outlet. This prompted me to select the two Torbreck’s in this Lineup. A golden colour with a scent of the seashore, briny seaweed aromas. The film is firm with many long slow tears. Strong flavoured - more vegetative than fruit, full-bodied, smooth but with a sharpness on the tongue and following into a finish that is acidic and lasting. Not a sipper and likely a taste not shared by a majority - paired well with grilled tiger prawns, basmati rice and asparagus. Not for cellaring.  84

ST. HALLETT GAMEKEEPER’S SHIRAZ/GRENACHE 2009, Barossa, Australia, 13.5% XD, #024117   $14.95  (Tasted March 24, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on January 5, 2011 described on the back label as “…embraces the spectrum of spicy pepper, tannins and weight of Shiraz with generous, gamey, juicy raspberry flavours of Grenache. …. a splash of Touriga with its rose petal floral-like spice… non-oaked…”.  My notes: The nose is full of spice and prunes, a swirl gives a firm film with long fast legs and the colour is an opaque ruby with a purple hue. The first sip has an unusual red currant edge to pleasing black berry, smooth, full in the mouth with a sharpness to match most spicy entrees. I found it too aggressive as a sipper. Pair with grilled meats, savoury or spicy. This has enough for 4 to 5 years cellaring. Then it’s a question of the direction changes could take. The price is right to take a chance on a dozen.  A rustic drink now.  88 (Cellar)

LETH VINEYARDS ‘STEINAGRUND’ GRÜNER VELTLINER 2009,  Wagram, Austria, 13.0% D, #207282   $16.95  (Tasted March 24, 2011)  CS


My notes:  A Vintages release on February 19, 2011, mentioned in Beppi’s column of February 26, 2011 and rated 90 saying ‘a textbook gruner veltliner… a delicious sweet-sour balance.’ Initial impression: Beppi is right on!  Leth Vineyards has put together a well balanced ‘sweet and sour’  white that should please sippers and seafood diners. Leaves long legs on the glass, smooth enough yet with some clay, some honey, some citrus without a pronounced lemon or line. Serve before a contract bridge session and see aggressive bidding. Serve at a house blessing and welcome the compassionate participation. A warm finish with a smooth honey-citrus ending. Likely could be cellared for 2 - 3 years.  91

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CALITERRA SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA ESTATE GROWN 2010, Casablanca, Chile, 13.0% D, #275909  $8.95  (Tasted March 11, 2011)  CS

My notes: Another from Beppi Crosariol’s column of February 26th and rated 87.  ‘A lemon kissed a grapefruit and accidentally fell into the bottle’ - novelty expressive. This has a super aroma of mild gooseberry ‘kissed’ by a tropical citrus blend, perhaps kiwi and passion fruit. On the other hand Beppi’s simile is perfect. There’s a lacy film and slow tears and the first taste has a tangy tropical citrus flavour finishing bright, dry, smooth with a warm ending of straw and nettles. An overkill, suggesting a fortified process, on flavour that may limit pairing, perhaps have with grilled tiger prawns or curried mussels. A mixed crowd may have mixed reaction - have a backup. A drink now.  84


VINA TARAPACA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Isla de Maipo, Chile, 13.0% D,  #414185  $8.95*  (Tasted March 31, 2011)  CS

My notes: *Reduced a dollar until February 27th the 2009 vintage was one of Beppi Crosariol’s on February 26, 2011 rated 86. I didn’t noticed the vintage difference at the local outlet when I picked this up the same day. Beppi says it (2009) is a cross between a ‘sassy NZ and a tame Loire Valley’.  The 2010 has a blended passion fruit and gooseberry scent although not with the vigour of the actual fruit and quickly dissipating. A natural blond colour with a scattering of tiny bubbles clinging then releasing and a light film falling lacily. The first sip has an interesting brightness, a silkiness and the tang of tropical fruit - an oily seam gradually reveals itself. A grassy edge comes forward in a moderate finish ending on a chemical note. Not for cellaring - a commercial drink now.  83
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FUZION ALTA TORRONTÉS PINOT GRIGIO 2010, Mendoza, Chile, 13.5% XD, #168419  $8.95  (Tasted March 15, 2011)  CS

My notes: Ratings for Fuzion Shiraz Malbecs, the 2007 and 2009 specifically, have been inconsistent in this blog running from a low of 80 to a high of 84. The US version tasted on a trip to Boston was jammy and sweet I rated 74. Perhaps the whites will fare better? Beppi Crosariol gave this blend an 87 for the spice of the Pinot Grigio and the roundness of the Torrontés. The nose has a spicy scent and shows some dryness. A thin film with fast tears at the rim and a light blond colour. Very dry on the palate with thin fruit mostly citrus, some warmth and a roundness overridden by tang. The tang and citrus flavours fade slowly into a mineral, chalky ending. A straightforward drink now that went well with grilled Pacific salmon.  84
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KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER'S RESERVE ‘SUMMATION’ 2009, Santa Rosa, California, 13.5%  D, #210195  $19.95  (Tasted March 5, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on December 11, 2011 rated 89 and described by Joshua Greene  (October 2010) as “Soft and grapey, this yields flavors of peach and lime pith as it opens with air. Touches of flowers and spice make it a wine to chill for poached prawns.”  My notes: This was suggested in a Tweet by Robert Parker. Other than a ‘mélange of white grape varietals that originally hail from the Loire and Rhône regions’ of France there is no indication of the winemaker’s blend. My first impression: major components are chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and semillon with the chardonnay spending some time on oak, the remainder in stainless with time on lees. The first sip is full-bodied, creamy with prominent acid. Flavours of pear, green melon and straw come forward early leading to a long finish and ending soft on the lips. Too astringent to be a sipper. Paired with roast chicken pieces it would have benefited from a  touch more fruit. Rather than drink now cellaring up to four years may help.  83 

CLINE ‘LOS CARNEROS’ SYRAH 2006, Sonoma, California, 14.5% XD, #955435  $17.95  (Tasted March 14, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on March 5, 2011. The back label says “the finest Syrah offering. Handpicked from our 18-acre estate vineyard in Sonoma’s Carneros district, one of the last blocks to ripen. … deep plum and cherry notes with hints of vanilla and coffee…” My notes: In May 2008 the Cline Syrah 2006, #733758 $12.85, claimed to be ‘an excellent value’ wasn’t that impressive. Is this a different label or a different wine? Definitely a different wine. A thick film with long slow legs and the black velvet colour almost shouts out full-bodied. Velvet on the first sip… with spicy blackberry and black current flavours that slows the sipping pace. Fur coats the mouth in a short while and matches the rich depth of flavoured textures. I would expect this to cellar another five years - sample after three - the acid level is well balanced now. Match with anything beefy or gamey with a rich savoury sauce. A bold Shiraz with the elegance of a Syrah and an insult to the wine to have with pizza.  95
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SKUTTLEBUTT SHIRAZ/MERLOT ROSÉ 2008, Margaret River, Australia, 13.5% D, #169383  $16.95  (Tasted March 28, 2011)  CS


A Vintages release on June 26, 2010. My notes:  This is a deeply toned peachy pink or Atlantic salmon red. The nose has a clean apricot and watermelon scent and a swirl brings a firm film, a lacy edge and just a few slow legs. Full-bodied and silky smooth to be welcomed at any social setting with flavours of watermelon, apricot and the tang of pomegranate giving much interest as a sipper. The finish carries the flavours and textures then fades to a slightly spicy end - nice! Pair with a shrimp and scallop platter or with a marmalade coated pork tenderloin dish. Cellar for two years or serve chilled and drink now.   91

WENTE ‘SOUTHERN HILLS’ LIVERMORE VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, California, USA, 13.5% D, #301507  $16.95  (Tasted March 7, 2011)  CS

My notes: The 2006 vintage was tasted in November 2008 and rated 89. Airing was recommended.  There’s a definite purple hue to the dense ruby colour and aromas of black current and raspberry are modest. Slow tears flow on a tilted glass and firm tannins and restrained acid coat dusty black current flavours against a background of smooth spice. My guess is the ‘Southern Hills’ are clay loam soils to pass along flavours that hold indefinitely in a long finish. A full-bodied, dry, flavourful sipper with sugars well hidden. Have with prime rib or other roasted meats - I‘m trying it with Italian Sausage meat and Farfalle in a tomato/onion sauce - add your own basil and pecarino. Cellaring for several years may increase complexity. For now it’s an interesting sipper. 92 
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GHOST PINES ‘WINEMAKER'S BLEND’ MERLOT 2007, Healdsburg, California, 14.0% D, #135384  $19.95  (Tasted March 4, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on February 19, 2011. The back label says “… Flavours of black cherry and ripe berries complement mocha and brown spice notes finishing with a generous, supple texture.”   My notes: A Louis M. Martini winery.  There’s a grey cast to a deep garnet colour and a flint scent to raspberry aromas. The nose adds floral with time in the glass. A moderate film with long fast legs gives an inkling of the silky touch of the first sip. Yes - with noticeable tannins and not so subtle tang. Pencil shavings and California raspberry flavours add appeal and lead into a long finish that dries the palate leaving mostly shavings.  A slight mint adds interest. Have with herbed meats including rosemary chicken or lamb shank. Not for the cellar - a drink now.  88


CHÂTEAU DUCLA BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2008, Bordeaux, France, 12.0% XD,  #162461   $14.95  (Tasted March 7, 2011)   CS
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Released by Vintages on March 5, 2011 and recommended by WineoftheWeekend, May 3, 2011. My notes:  From the back label: An Yvon Mau et Fils winery and a blend of cabernet and merlot of grapes from the sunny south western slopes of the hills in Saint-Exupery. Many tears fall from a firm film indicating a medium-bodied red, smooth to sip. The nose has a light vanilla, earth, some berry with current and spice but very little. Smooth, drying tannins, wood remnants with a slight flavour of berries makes this overall an OK sipper but not that interesting by itself. More of a meat companion or red sauced pasta/pizza combination. Past it or not enough to warrant cellaring, a drink now.  80
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CONUNDRUM 2009, Rutherford, California, 13.5% M, #694653  $23.95  (Tasted March 20, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010. My notes: A blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, viognier and muscat put together by winemaker Jon Bolta. The 2006 was tasted in July 2008 and April 2010 with ratings in the low 90’s. Now priced $3 lower this has the same new gold colour with a firm film forming a lacy rim and accumulating small, slow tears. There’s a suspicion of passionfruit and subtle aromas of citrus and kiwi melon then a first sip that is full and smooth with flavours of melon and mild citrus maintaining an ambiguity of the blend. The finish is a combination of chalky mineral with remnants of tropical citrus - a sugar presence is left ‘til the end. A super sipper for almost any gathering or pair with seafood pastas. Drink now or cellar two years.  91

J.P. CHENET PREMIER DE CUVÉE MERLOT CABERNET 2009, Languedoc, France, 12.5%  D, #621995  $11.95  (Tasted March 9, 2011)  CS


My notes: A General listing - An aroma of warmed earth, plum sauce and liquorice and a colour of deep opaque ruby sets this up as an interesting sipper. The film is firm with a scalloped edge leading to long fast legs and the first sip parches from full tannins, has a sharp bite and woody berry flavours. A peak of equal fruit and liquorice in the finish which declines quickly to a bramble and dulling dryness long on the palate. T'is rough as a sipper but with some textural interest - a better match for tomato sauced pastas. A drink now.  82  

J. LOHR ‘LOS OSOS’ MERLOT 2007, Paso Robles, California, 13.5% D, #027516  $19.95  (Tasted March 16, 2011)  CS



A Vintages release on March 5, 2011 rated 4 of 5 (87-89) and described by Rod Phillips  (Dec 3, 2009) as “ Mostly merlot, with a dash of malbec and another dash of petit verdot, this blend delivers ripe and intense fruit flavours. Look for complexity and structure in this well-priced red, and drink it with roasted or grilled red meats.  My notes: A spice tinged blackberry nose from a blackberry tinged dense ruby colour and a film that sticks to the glass before cascading in a lacy patchwork with some pearls clinging.  Smooth, a piercing fullness of blackberry flavours and smoky earth tones. A welcomed sipper after an early afternoon of travels or have with anything meaty and grilled, seared, pot roasted or just liver paté on toasts. A drink now and may cellar a few years.  88
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SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS ‘TRIOMPHE’ SYRAH 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario,  11.8%  XD, #129809   $24.95  (Tasted March 22, 2011)  CS



A Vintages release on October 30, 2010.  This wine won a Silver Medal at the 2010 Ontario Wine Awards.  My notes: Letting this red breathe an hour before serving mellows out some tang although the nose retains a spicy side close to white pepper.  The aromatic side of the nose includes plum, crushed raspberry and a slight vanilla. The colour is a dull ruby and a swirl shows a firm film that slowly cascades shedding many long tears. The flavour is predominantly young berries with a high acid level that leaves behind the fruit and frames a berry bramble through to a long sharp finish. Not a sipper this could pair with spicy pizza or chorizo sausage in a tomato pasta dish. A distinct Niagara style.  81     

PERRIN & FILS LES SINARDS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007, Orange, France (Map it!)  , 14.5% XD, #005975 (375 mL)  $19.95  (Tasted March 25, 2011)  CS

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A Vintages release on March 5, 2011 rated 92 and described by Robert Parker Jr. (Oct 2009) as “… Dense ruby, with licorice, sweet cherry, and lavender notes, this full-bodied, admirably concentrated wine can be drunk now or over the next 10-12 years.”  My notes: A half size bottle of Les Sinards, #926626 regularly priced at $38.95.  Let air for an hour for the smooth scent of spicy black currants without much room for other black fruit - but they’re there. There’s a purple hue to an opaque ruby and the film is firmly fixed letting short legs run and slowly evaporating.  Medium-bodied with tannin to dry the mouth and a subtle acid to breathe life into flavours of black currants and liquorice. If there’s sugar it’s subtle as part of a long parching finish. Possible as a sipper depending on the crowd - more likely a meal red with prime rib, T-bone or long ribs. Has cellared well ‘til now and likely another four years.  91
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RIDGEPOINT WINES CABERNET MERLOT 2006 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Vineland, Ontario, 12.5% D, #101519  $13.95  (Tasted March 13, 2011)  CS

The back label says “crafted from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes … from atop the Niagara Escarpment… … intensely flavoured and aromatic.”  My notes: A swirl shows a firm film slowly cascading with many long legs. The colour is a see-through black cherry with an adobe tint at the edge. The nose has a black cherry, raspberry jam and wood smoke scent and the first sip is smooth but with a background sharpness that surprises the palate and leads the way to a cranberry/red cherry mix. Polite tannins balance out the finish that ends dry on the tongue. A light-bodied red sipper to partner with the Monticello Bianco as a social duo - or have with veal scallopini or a cheese & ground beef pizza- was particualry suited to grilled Frenched pork chop/dry coriander dry rub with sliced red pepper and asparagus  At peak is my guess.  86
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RIDGEPOINT MONTICELLO BIANCO 2009 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Vineland, Ontario, 12.5%  D,  #218651  $13.95  (Tasted March 13, 2011)  CS
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According to the back label, a blend of everything, ie. “Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Noir grapes… displays beautiful mineral, floral and tropical fruit aromas and flavours… ” .  My notes: A light straw colour with a faint melon aroma, a thin film leaving a lacy edge, a few reluctant tears and a first sip of melon apple flavours on a nicely balanced seam of acid. A bright tartness carries a moderate finish of crisp apple tinged with blueberry - keep chilled. This could be a pleasing social sipper for a summer day on the patio or quaff at any time with a shrimp ring and other light buffet fare. A drink now well blended for grape anonymity.   82
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AUNTSFIELD ‘LONG COW’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #663286   $19.95  (Tasted March 21, 2011)  CS

Released by Vintages on March 19, 2011 with a 90 rating and described (October 2010) by Lisa Perroti-Brown, MW www.erobertparker.com as “…gives intense lemon zest, grapefruit, wild asparagus and lemongrass aromas. Crisp, medium bodied with a good concentration of ripe fruit, it provides a long citrusy finish with some minerals.  My notes: This has a pleasing aroma of gooseberries and a swirl gives a thin film with a lacy edge shedding tiny tears. A pale blond colour and the first sip has a gooseberry flavour, tangy and drying to the palate, not much smoothness more light-bodied than medium-, and goes into a long, dry taste of grassy (herbaceous) fruit remnants. Definitely the NZ style of Sauvignon Blanc with a balanced fruit and grass. A social sipper if you’re heading for dry or a starter for a seafood entrée.  A drink now.  87   

DANZANTE PINOT GRIGIO 2009, Venezie, Italy, 12.0% D, #026906  $14.45  (Tasted March 21, 2011)  CS

By Luce. My notes: A bland golden blond colour, crisp and clean, with negligible nose and a film of lace with long legs. The first sip almost has a flavour of lemon with some apple in the background. For a social sipper it would be OK except overpriced. Cleanly made from young fruit. Have 50/50 with soda water as a light spritzer and to give it life. Nothing wrong just nothing going for it.   76 

IRONSTONE OBSESSION SYMPHONY 2009,  Murphys, California, 12.5%  D, #355784  $14.95  (Tasted March 24, 2011)  CS


A Vintages release on March 19, 2011.   My notes:  The 2004 was tasted in April 2006 before ratings and was described as “More of a summer sipper (one ice cube) or accompanied by a shrimp ring…”  Eight dollars in the US, 40,000 cases made. The 2009 shows a slight spritz and a pale yellow gold colour and leaves a slowly receding lacy rim on the bowl. A delicate honey and lemon scent and a light lemon flavour introduces this white to the palate.  Delicate? At first but more flavourful than the 2004 and sufficiently round to build interest - quaffing saturates the palate with texture and flavours offering interest as a sipper. Medium-bodied and lightly tart will make this a favourite for a buffet social or pair with spicy Asian fare. A well balanced and appealing slightly off-dry blend.  A drink now.  89

Kim Crawford Selection: 6 Tasted of 6

Changing Pastures

The following is a selection of wines from the Kim Crawford Winery, a craft winery visited in 2003. The co-founder,  Kim Crawford, sold to Vincor before leaving in 2008. The winery now belongs to Constellation Corporation. 

Cheers, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds then whites:

• Kim Crawford SP ‘Rise-and-Shine Creek’ Pinot Noir 2007,  89  --  V, Central Otago, NZ, #035337 $29.95
• Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2008, 80  --  V, Marlborough, NZ, #626390  $19.95

• Kim Crawford Dry Riesling 2007,  89-1  --  V,  Marlborough, NZ, #626408 $19.95 
• Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 84  --  V, Marlborough, NZ, #035386  $18.95
• Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2009, 81  --  V, Marlborough, NZ, #680983  $19.95 
• Kim Crawford SP ‘Moteo Vineyard’ Viognier 2008, 80 --  V, Hawke’s Bay, NZ, #191759 $25.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)


TASTINGS:
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KIM CRAWFORD DRY RIESLING 2007, Marlborough, NZ, 12.5% XD, #626408 $19.95  (Tasted February 28, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on October 2, 2010 rated 90 by Natalie MacLean and described (August 29, 2009) as “Bone-dry Riesling that's simply delicious! …  Aromas of white peach, lime, lemongrass and sunny days running through a field of white flowers. Medium-bodied and zesty.”  My notes: A straw blond colour and a nose of Granny Smith apple, lemon and I’m imagining petrol in there somewhere. A thin film recedes slowly leaving a lacy rim. The first taste confirms a light approach, a dryness and lemon/lime flavours blended with a suspicion of pear. The finish is moderate ending dry and tangy. There’s a subtle roundness that starts with the first sip and runs through the finish. Texture combined with delicate fruitiness gives interest as a sipper. Have with mild seafoods. Cellaring for a few more years should be interesting - I believe it could develop over two.  89
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KIM CRAWFORD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #035386  $18.95  (Tasted February 18, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “Vintage after vintage, the world-renowned Kim Crawford displays his winemaking prowess with Sauvignon Blanc. The 2007 and 2008 vintages each received 91 points from Wine Spectator! This lively wine exhibits aromas such as gooseberry, passion fruit, grass, nettle, mineral, and citrus. Tantalizing with steamed mussels or warm chicken salad.”  My notes: What is not said is that Kim Crawford founder and master winemaker left the winery in 2008 and, coincidentally, the string of Gold medals on the label ends in 2008. This is the fifth vintage tasted the first at the winery in early 2003. The 2010 is blond with a suspicion of green, tiny bubbles on the side of the glass and an aroma of delicate ripe gooseberry. Leaves a thin film with fast tears and the first sip has a herbaceous aspect to light flavours of citrus, nettles and gooseberry - without the silkiness of the 2009 tasted February 2010 (94). Quickly loses the initial timbre ending extra dry with citrus and chalk. Light-bodied needing repeated quaffs to retain peak interest as a sipper. Think bearded mussels to stay in context or scallops seared in butter on noodles.  A drink now and not likely to cellar long.  84
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KIM CRAWFORD PINOT NOIR 2008, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% D, #626390  $19.95  (Tasted February 18, 2011) CS
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.A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “Whatever Kim Crawford touches seems to turn to gold, so it is not surprising that he crafts exceptional Pinot Noir from his Marlborough vineyards. Featuring classic aromas of black cherry, raspberry and a touch of beetroot, this Pinot is forwardly fruity with a nice core of acid and a hint of tannin to bring balance… ”  My notes: Starting in June 2006 this is the fourth vintage tasted with mediocre results: 2004, 2006, 2007 and 2008.  Lacking nose, flavour and body the colour however is an attractive, brilliant see-through red cherry colour.  A swirl leaves a thin film with fast tears on the bowl and the nose is a just perceptible smoky black cherry with raspberry overtones. Smooth, lightly flavoured raspberry, moderate tannins and a light acid peak then wane quickly leaving a cherry skin sweetness on the palate. Perhaps from young vines - a party sipper that's difficult to meal match. Easily quaffed this may be a beverage for a social setting.  80

KIM CRAWFORD SP ‘MOTEO VINEYARD’ VIOGNIER 2008, Hawke’s Bay, NZ, 14.0% XD, #191759  $25.95  (Tasted February 18, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on January 8, 2011 described by the Panel (Jan. 2010) as “... This Viognier sports a fresh floral nose, with notes of ripe apricot, melon and citrus. The palate is velvety-textured and finely balanced, leading to a nice long finish.”  My notes: SP stands for Small Parcel.  A just perceptible hint of wild floral and a golden blond colour starts the sniff & sight test. A thin film with a few tears flow down leaving a lacy rim. Medium-bodied, a citrus tartness, smooth with flavours of mandarin orange zest and unripe melon. The finish, more zest and acid than fruit, picks up an acid seam to carry awkward flavours to a mineral end. An atypical Viognier having less floral and meagre fruit but a nice fullness - an acquired taste for a sipper (that my BH enjoyed). Have with seafood or braised chicken breast dishes. Not for cellaring. 80

KIM CRAWFORD PINOT GRIS 2009, Marlborough, NZ, 14.0% D, #680983  $19.95  (Tasted February 25, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on July 10, 2010 described by the Panel (May 2010) as “Apricot, floral, melon, grapefruit and tropical fruit aromas dominate this just-off-dry Alsatian-style Pinot Gris. Fresh acidity brings a touch of dryness to this pretty wine… “  My notes: Tasted this along with Joseph Cattin Alsace Pinot Gris 2008 ( #196956 $18.95). The Kim Crawford has a clean mid golden colour with aromas of sweet apricot and a whiff of raisins. Tart acids offer brightness and a sweetness adds roundness to the first sip. A lemon pith flavour combines with a straw dryness that gradually predominates a long finish. For a short while this has interest as a sipper - better to match with seared scallops, roast chicken or battered halibut and chips. Cellaring is not likely to improve this Alsatian taste-alike.  81
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KIM CRAWFORD SP ‘RISE-AND-SHINE CREEK’ PINOT NOIR 2007, Central Otago, NZ, 14.0% XD, #035337  $29.95  (Tasted February 20, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on December 11, 2010 rated 89 and described (April 30, 2010)  by Harvey Steimann www.winespectator.com as “Light in texture, with crisp juicy acidity to balance the refreshing raspberry and blackberry flavors, a floral note hovering over it all. Lingers well… “ My notes:  A dense black cherry skin colour with a combined aroma of crushed raspberry and blackberry, spicy, warm and inviting, delicate. A thin film with many long, fast, stained legs - pronounced tannins and an enticing bite - smooth, full of dark berry flavours that continue into a long, warm, dry finish. Medium-bodied with a brooding character wanting to express depth but it’s not quite there. An interesting sipper not for the party crowd. Went well with grilled swordfish and mushroom caps. Cellaring for a short period, two to three years, is possible.  89

When Numbness Sets In

The eloquence of nature...

Before starting Strictly Tasting (January 2005) I had been following several wine writers.  Around the same time I also subscribed to wine magazines and regularly visited websites of those in the trade and of amateurs. I had a library of everything from popular encyclopaedic volumes to Billy’s Best Bottles. I didn’t know it but at the time I was trying to determine how to find wines that appealed to my senses, quickly eliminating others and, since I was on a budget, automatically selecting ‘good, better, best value’. I hadn’t realized at this early stage that ranking wines let alone evaluating them would be uncharted, often controversial, territory… and I hadn’t realized the industry built around reviewing wines was essentially unregulated.

A few years into the blog I started a systematic review of sources having eliminated some that simply didn’t ’ring my chimes’.  I followed these with blog entries listing the wines tasted with ratings. These entries can be found through the links below. I also realized I was running into a problem for my own reviews - I was unregulated. I needed a tasting methodology accompanied almost immediately by a rating system and eventually a way of determining ’value’.

I started by summarizing my monthly tastings and then listed the wines both semi-annually and annually. The wines above an 85 rating and within budget would be my ‘value’ wines. I was able to spot candidates early from the monthly tastings and from my notes I could deduce wines for cellaring, house reds and whites, wines for special dinners and gifts for friends based on their preferences. The rating ‘number’ quickly narrowed down the candidate wines and if I acted quickly they were still available at an Outlet.

Initially for each Vintages Release I read LCBO notes marking several wines in their Shopping Lists for biweekly purchases. However, after a few Releases I sensed it was equivalent to asking a butcher if his steaks were tender. Consequently, I began to rely on three other sources, reviewers with palates closest to my own: Rod Phillips , at the time with Winecurrent and later with his newsletter Winepointer, Gord Stimmell of The Star and Beppi Crosariol of the G&M. Was it a 100% match? No.  Why only local sources? These critics reviewed Vintages Releases regularly. Outsiders didn’t. 

Several months went by. There was only a so-so co-relation between my tasting notes and the sources.  I was now doubting the usefulness of narratives. Soon the only triggers I needed to prompt interest in a wine was a Label, a Rating and a Price. With these I have anchors to hang my ADD on. Reinforcing this transition was a viewing of the video of  Gary Vaynerchuk and James Suckling  brown bag tasting 5 wines (February 6, 2011). Although very entertaining the content of value to me were the Labels (none available locally), the fact that James Suckling gave each wine a 90+ rating, and the Prices.  It’s confirmed… I am now numb to any form of narrative.

No one is so eloquent to capture the wonder of nature, not the crystallized lacework of  winter and not a simple glass of wine. Just give me the numbers. Those stimulate my inquisitive nature without reading another word.

Cheers, Ww

Early sources:
(1) Magazines
Toronto Life   May 2008
Wine Access   May 2008
Wine Spectator  May 2008

(2) Websites
Winepointer #6  May 2008
Winepointer #7  June 2008 
Inside Winealign  October 2009

(3) Newspaper columns
The Star (Gord Stimmell)   June 2008
Globe & Mail (Beppi Crosariol)   July 2008

(4) LCBO Promos
Red Wines 101   Feb 2009
The Inside Story   March 2009
Viva Vino   April 2009
Spring at last!   April 2009
Holiday   Nov 2009
goLOCAL   Nov 2009

(5) Books in the category ‘Best Wines’   
The 500 Best Value Wines 2010   January 2010
The 500 Best Value Wines 2011   November 2010
Wine Trials 2011   December 2010
Wine Trials 2010   July 2010

February 2011 Wines: 24 Tasted of 24

Red Skies over Erin

Some of the wines below are carry-overs from January - just never got to them and didn’t want to rush. Also there's a few Chards to compare, a Callabriga Douro was thought highly at a family dinner however, the Alentejo was the only one available at an Outlet.

Three wines are from Beppi Crosariol’s  Decanter of January 29th, a column in the Globe & Mail I’ve started following again after several years abstinence. 


A few articles ago Beppi declared his intention to use a 100 point Scoring System . This is detailed in the article Wine Scoring Explained (October 1, 2010). The System, similar to the Wine Advocate Rating System, is based on several parameters to comprise a total score: Colour, Aroma, Complexity, Balance, Typicity, Finish, Cellar Potential and Flaws. Beppi’s significant knowledge of grape profiles, process influences, regional traditions and terroirs and the ability to isolate and sum these criteria across all alcoholic beverages including wines is a real plus. 

But why do I need a score?  See When Numbness Sets In  for my rationale.

Conclusions so far: A few of the selections are of wines described by 'anonymous' and 'undated'. Notes such as these should be ignored, as proven below.  A second rating not to be trusted is one older than a year. Then there are the ones on a 3 point scale...  or a five point. Unless the rating system is defined these reviewers like to sit on the fence of undefined ambiguity. More ambiguous are those not offering a rating. Their notes say 'Trust me! My palate will guide you to a wine you will enjoy!'. LOL 

And my last (I'm kidding!) bit of advice... be suspicious of a wine 'reduced for sale'. No one is doing  consumers a favour. I'm not sure what is wrong with our monopolistic system that allows bad acquisitions to be passed on under the guise of  'bargains'.   My suggestion is for LCBO management to be required to drink only wines offered in their promotions when dining with friends or associates.... or, tho' perhaps too severe, the purchasing agent should be fired and the inventory dumped.

Cheers, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, sparkles and other:
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• L.A.Cetto Petite Sirah 2008, 92-3  --  V, Baja California,  Mexico, #983742 $11.95 
• Sartori l’Appassito Rosso 2008 (B87), 91-3  --  V, Veneto, Italy,  #193607 $12.95
• Trapiche Broquel Bonarda 2007, 91-2  --  V,  Mendoza, Argentina, #055558 $15.95
• Château le Pey Cru Bourgeois 2008 (B89), 90-2  --  V, Medoc, France, #200071 $17.95
• Albert Bichot Bourgogne ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Pinot Noir 2008, 89-2  --  G, Burgundy, France, #166959 $13.45* 
• Chateau Pey la Tour Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2007, 88-1  --  V, Bordeaux, France, #925859 $19.95  
• Saint-Roch Vieilles Vignes Côtes de Roussillon 2009,  86-1  --  V, Roussillon, France, #195107  $14.95
• Château ‘La Clape’ Camplazens la Garrique 2007 (B87),  85  --  V, Languedoc, France, #195008 $16.95  
• Callabriga 2007,  85  --  V, Alentejo, Portugal, #167643  $16.95
• Le Cinciole Chianti Classico 2007,  85  --  V,  Tuscany, Italy, #207795 $19.95 
  
• Abbona La Pieve Barolo 2005, 84  --  V,  Piedmont, Italy, #213132 $26.95 
• Pierre André Bourgogne ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Pinot Noir Réserve 2008, 79  --  G, Burgundy, France, #168427 $16.05 

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• Kleine Zalze Barrel Fermented Vineyard Selection Chardonnay 2009, 90-2  --  V, Stellenbosch, South Africa,  #096495 $15.95 
• Domaine Eugénie Carrion Chablis 2009, 90-2  --  V, Burgundy, France,  #183590 $19.95 
• Peninsula Ridge Inox Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  89-2  --  G, Beamsville, Ontario, #594200 $13.95

• Wolf Blass Yellow Label Sauvignon Blanc 2009,  88-1  --  G,  South Australia, #611475 $15.00  
• Ghost Pines Winemaker’s Blend Chardonnay 2007,  87  --  V,  Napa County, California, #136408 $19.95 
• Rustenberg Brampton Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 86  --  V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #203901 $13.95 
• Yalumba ‘The Y series’ Viognier 2008, 85  --  V, South Australia, #624502 $14.95 
• Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2009, 84  --  V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #602649 $13.95 
• Joseph Cattin Alsace Pinot Gris 2008,  82  --  V,  Alsace, France, 13.0%  D, #196956 $18.95  
• Pilliteri Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 80  --  G, NOTL, Ontario, #064790 $9.95 
• D'Arenburg ‘The Stump Jump’ Lightly Wooded Chardonnay 2009, 70  --  G, McLaren Vale, Australia, #173302  $11.95*  

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• Jansz Tasmania Premium NV Rosé, 88  --  V, Tasmania, Australia, #037499 $24.75  

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value, B - Beppi)
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TASTINGS:

SAINT-ROCH VIEILLES VIGNES CÔTES DE ROUSSILLON 2009, Roussillon, France, 13.5% D, #195107  $14.95  (Tasted February 1, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on January 22, 2011 described by their Panel (April 2010) as “A blend of Syrah and Grenache that really shines. Fresh berry, cassis, cherry and red plum are at the forefront, accented by herbal notes, with the whole arrangement replaying steadily on the palate. A blend that's smooth and creamy, with a dry finish… “   My notes:  A royal ruby colour with peppery red currant and berry aromas. The film is thin and leaves fast legs, a lacy edge and a first sip yields fresh berry accents, distinct acid and mint followed by a lasting chalk dry finish of mandarin zest. A well put together red, on the light side of medium-bodied and ready to pair with light beef, veal, pork or dark turkey entrees. Cellaring a year or two may smooth some last minute rawness but a straightforward sipper now.  86
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DOMAINE EUGÉNIE CARRION CHABLIS 2009, Burgundy, France, 12.5% XD, #183590  $19.95  (Tasted February 10, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on January 22, 2011 described by their Panel (March 2010) as “This is classic Chablis, with lots of citrus fruit and green apple notes on the nose. Dry and round, with good weight and a lovely texture, it shows wonderful citrus character and that quintessential minerality on the palate. The finish is long and exquisite… “   My notes: A mid gold colour and a film that sticks then slowly recedes, no tears. The nose has an aroma of tangy apple with some mineral notes. A consistent cleansing acid, smooth, full-bodied, light fruit, light citrus and apple. A warm finish carrying the blended flavours through a long finish. Start chilled in the glass and note changes as it warms - has a balanced combination of textures and flavours. A fish white: lobster, crab, scallops with creamy pastas. Cellaring likely for a few years perhaps more.  90


D'ARENBERG THE STUMP JUMP LIGHTLY WOODED CHARDONNAY 2009, McLaren Vale, Australia, 13.0% D, #173302   $11.95*  (Tasted February 6, 2011)  CS
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Without a LCBO description and the back label simply states about the process “…gently crushed and basket pressed followed by temperature controlled fermentation prior to bottling. Etc". My notes: A General listing and reduced $2 until January 30th.  The aroma on opening is of strongly scented, unripe, crushed gooseberries (for a chard?) and slowly fades to a tolerable level. A swirl brings a film that sticks to the glass and develops a circle of slowly dropping tears. A tangy first sip has flavours of unripe gooseberries with a finish that quickly changes to an extra dry, tart, mineral level - no fresh fruit here. Not recommended as a sipper and would be difficult to match with appetizers or entrées. Was discarded.  70
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WOLF BLASS YELLOW LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009,  South Australia, 11.5% D, #611475  $15.00  (Tasted February 4, 2011)  CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Medium straw colour; aromas of pear, melon and hay aromas; dry, light to medium bodied, well balanced, with fresh cut grass, lime and herb flavours.”  My notes:  A light blond with a scalloped film and slow tears gives the impression of ‘creamy’. A delicate gooseberry with a nettle side aroma coming together now as a polite sipper. More gooseberries, some lime tartness and a dry mouthfeel masking minor cream then finishing quickly until reinforced with a second sip - delectable going down, refreshingly dry. A drink now - I don’t see this having longevity in the cellar. Have with seafood or chicken in a creamy sauce.  88 
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CALLABRIGA 2007,  Alentejo, Portugal, 14.5% D, #167643   $16.95   (Tasted February 4, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on September 18, 2010 described anonymously (undated) as “Sogrape's Callabriga is produced from mostly Aragónez (Tempranillo) with the rest comprised of Alfrocheiro and Alicante Bouschet. The wine is designed to demonstrate a modern winemaking style using the grapes and vineyards that reflect the best of Portugal. Look for aromas of blackberry, cherry and plum, plus hints of spice and nicely integrated oak tones…”  My notes: Alentejo instead of the one tasted with friends - Douro - but with the same SPC and price. A must to decant or air forty minutes for soft raspberry jam aromas and a waterfall of tears. A velvet texture with fine tannins and flavours of plums, a mixed berry jam and ’lead pencil’, evenly balanced for an old world full-bodied red. Some spice shows during a long finish. Beef Wellington, rich Texas chili or slow simmered lamb shank could be a match. Cellaring for several years may deepen velvety dark fruit character but likely at peak now.  85


PENINSULA RIDGE INOX CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula,  Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D, #594200  $13.95  (Tasted February 3, 2011)  CS
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A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Pale to medium yellow straw colour; delicate apple, ripe asian pear and lemon aromas and flavours with hints of butterscotch; extra-dry, with well balanced acid structure, refreshing, citrus flavours… “  My notes:  This vintage was last tasted a year ago and rated 91. Priced a dollar less noting flavours of ‘lemon-lime and some buttery melon’ and not likely to cellar beyond a year. Now with a more delicate nose retaining aromas of ‘banana, grapefruit and nippy citrus’ taking time to develop. Lacework decorates the bowl falling slowly with a few long tears. Has the colour of bright new gold and a flavour of mild melon, dry, a light lemon-lime tang finishing silky soft without sweetness. Elegant from the first sip and showing a suspicion of butterscotch at the end. A stellar fish white that has crested.  89
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PILLITERI UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 12.5% D, #064790  $9.95  (Tasted February 1, 2011)  CS
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A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Pale straw colour with aromas of pineapple and pear. Fresh citrus fruit on the palate, medium-bodied with crisp acidity on the finish.”   My notes:  The colour is a pale straw. The nose has a whiff of mineral barely detectable. A swirl gives a thin film with fast tears. Nothing exciting so far. The tang starts with the first sip and carries through a long dry finish. Delicate flavour of pear and citrus show while sipping but fade when paired with chicken pieces in a tomato sauce accompanied by cauliflower and green beans leaving the acid and slight cream to support the meal. A generic wine that could appeal as a complementary house white. May be past best before date. 80
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CHÂTEAU LE PEY CRU BOURGEOIS 2008, Medoc, France, 13.0% XD, #200071  $17.95  (Tasted February 2, 2011)  CS

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A Vintages release on January 8, 2011 described by the Panel (May 2010) as “The nose here is very intense, bursting with aromas of plum, black cherry, cassis, pencil lead and red licorice. The palate is dry and medium bodied, with soft, well-integrated tannins… “  My notes: A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and a Gold Medal winner at the 2010 Concours Général Agricole in Paris. A definite purple hue and seemingly opaque in density but crystal clear when held to the light. An aroma of blackberry, currant and, for spice, pepper evenly blended. The film immediately flows many tears and the first sip is medium-bodied, has a smooth texture with the dryness of moderate tannins. The finish starts and ends with herby black fruit on the palate and is pleasingly bright and dry. Cellar for up to four years or serve now as an intro to beef tenderloin, on the rare side, a T-bone or broiled pork back ribs.   90

CHÂTEAU ‘LA CLAPE’ CAMPLAZENS LA GARRIGUE 2007, Languedoc, France, 12.5% D, #195008  $16.95  (Tasted February 3, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on January 22, 2011 described by the Panel (April 2010) as “This wine, from the excellent 2007 vintage… Alluring notes of liquorice and tobacco in the nose reveal further aromas and flavours of rich red fruit, white pepper, beetroot, creamy chocolate and vanilla. A silky, medium-bodied red with a beautifully spiced finish and terrific length… “  My notes: A Trophy winner at the International Wine Challenge 2009. Blackberries with a earthy edge including a slight pungency for a nose. The colour is rich ruby clear in the glass sticking well to the sides until slow tears are formed at the rim. A medium-bodied red with a piercing acidity shielding red currant and earthy flavourings. Fades slowly with a denture cleansing brightness. Somewhat throat catching as a sipper… better with finger food, well seasoned hamburgers or bbq’d back ribs.  85

SARTORI L'APPASSITO ROSSO 2008, Veneto, Italy,  14.0% D, #193607  $12.95  (Tasted February 13, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on January 22, 2011 described anonymously (undated) as “This is a rich and invigorating wine with intense aromas of dried fruit and spice. Its unusual blend of Corvina Veronese, Molinara, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot prevents this wine from being called a Ripasso, but it is made in the same manner. The palate is dry and tremendously well structured with integrated tannins that work wonderfully well with the vibrant fruit…”  My notes:  A crisp red cherry red with a film that disintegrates slowly. Warm plum and red cherry tones suggest a mild sweetness but for a full surge of tartness carried along on a silky seam - the start of the long dry finish. Vibrant sour cherry and mild berry combine with slight tar leaving a light silk on the lips. The smoothness opposing a tart acid makes for an interesting sipper and a perfect match for braised  rack of lamb. Cellaring is not likely to improve but could stay at peak a few years.  91

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L.A.CETTO PETITE SIRAH 2008,  Baja California,  Mexico, 14.5% XD, #983742  $11.95  (Tasted February 9, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 described anonymously (undated) as “… Petite Sirah does very well as a stand-alone variety in Mexico; L.A. Cetto, in particular, has been extremely successful with the variety. Dense purple in colour, it offers black pepper and tea notes leading to an impressive, well-rounded finish.”  My notes: The first wine from Mexico that I’ve tried and it‘s an impressive value.  The colour is dense ruby with a purple glow and accompanies an aroma and warmth of old wood and freshly crushed berries in equal portions. There’s a smoothness and oak accented flavour of cherries and red currants including bright acid and mild tannin. The finish is lengthy carrying the fruit for a shortwhile then tannins come forward to a very dry ending. Impressive as a full-bodied sipper and would be great paired with anything beefy. Cellaring for several years could bring more depth and velvet.  92
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TRAPICHE BROQUEL BONARDA 2007,  Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #055558  $15.95  (Tasted February 8, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 rated 90 (May 7, 2009) and described by Natalie MacLean as “… A juicy-ripe red with rich black fruit, licorice, blueberry, coconut, dark spices and vanilla smoke. The vines for this wine were 20 years old, and the wine was aged in oak barrels for 12 months. Good firm tannins. Decant for 1-2 hours.“  My notes:  Almost a two year old tasting note but then it‘s a full-bodied full flavoured red.   No need to decant now. A swirl brings a thick film with slow legs to the glass and a sniff gives up a spicy bright zinfandel-like fruit to the nasal nodes. A royal ruby colour with flavours of berries and red currants leaving warmth and well established tannins behind. Slightly tooth cleaning unless biting on a party sausage or bacon and brie stuffed mushrooms. Have with a T-bone or tray of blue sliders. Cellar up to four years or drink now.  91
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LE CINCIOLE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2007,  Tuscany, Italy, 13.5% D, #207795  $19.95  (Tasted February 15, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 rated 91 (Oct. 2010) and described by James Suckling www.winespectator.com as “A layered and pretty wine, with berry and cherry character and hints of new wood. Full-bodied, yet reserved and balanced. Best from 2011 through 2016.”  My notes: Pours as a light-bodied red yet is a mid ruby in the glass. A thin film with fast tears is light in viscosity and the first sip confirms a lightish medium-bodied Chianti. The nose has a delicate woodiness and there’s a flavour of cherry and leather, silky edged leaving a light oil on the lips. A tannic dryness coats the mouth, some warmth and remnants of mostly wood and delicate cherry give an interesting finish. Not that exciting as a sipper altho’ quaffing intensifies the character if so inclined or pair with an Italian main course, meaty and cheesy. Likely at peak tho’ cellaring for a few more years should be OK.  85

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JOSEPH CATTIN ALSACE PINOT GRIS 2008,  Alsace, France, 13.0%  MD, #196956  $18.95   (Tasted February 25, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 described by the Panel (May 2010) as “… This Pinot Gris is an award winner, and deservedly so, with its beautifully balanced elements of peach, apple, poached pear, baking spice and pumpkin. Tangy, crisp and flavourful, with great intensity and length.”  My notes: A winner of a Gold Medal at the Grand Concours des Vins d’Alsace 2009 - an old tasting note for a delicate white. A mid golden colour, possible a touch of peach, with some noticeable sweetness and having a fully rounded mouthfeel. Has an almost imperceptible nose - could have been floral at one time - now a pie dough essence - and a peach pie flavour, including the crust, finishing with a tinge of tangy melon. Well made but has minor sipper appeal as flavours remain undefined through to the finish.  Have with a shrimp or mild mushroom omelette.  82

GHOST PINES WINEMAKER’S BLEND CHARDONNAY 2007,  Napa County, California, 14.5%  D, #136408  D, #136408  $19.95  (Tasted February 8, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 rated 88 (Dec. 2008) and described by Robert Parker Jr.  as “The 2007 Chardonnay exhibits plenty of pineapple, nectarine, pear, and peach characteristics in its fresh, lively, medium to full-bodied, crisp personality. The oak is kept well in the background ... The Ghost Pines offerings merit serious attention from bargain hunting consumers."  My notes: A blend of chardonnays from Sonoma County (25%), Napa county (35%) and Monterey County (40%). A slight nose of floral citrus and hazelnut needing time to develop after pouring and shows a cascading thin film on the glass. Some lemon, some orange and some pear in the first sip with a mild tang and dry texture. The roundness adds prominence to moderate flavours balancing everything for a long smooth, warm finish. An interesting social sipper with enough body and flavours to match a shrimp and lemon seasoned spaghettini dish. Not likely to cellar longer than a year.  87

ABBONA LA PIEVE BAROLO 2005,  Piedmont, Italy, 14.0%  XD, #213132  $26.95  (Tasted February 5, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 described anonymously (undated) as “The great Nebbiolo-based wines of Barolo rarely come at this fine a price, so this is the perfect opportunity to sample this Piedmontese classic. The 2005 vintage is just starting to hit the market, so this also offers an opportune sneak-peek at the character of the vintage. Look for aromas of plum, truffles, raspberry and cedar in this wine. The tannins should be firm, but there will be plenty of fruit here to to bring balance.”  My notes:  A delicious oaked cherry jam aroma, an adobe tinged red plum colour and a firm film with slow tears sets an impression of aged elegance. The first sip is tannin drenched parching the palate and lightly flavoured with a cherry taste fading to bramble in a moderate finish. A drying texture rather than the expected silk and on the light side as a match for rare tenderloins wrapped in pastry prepared for friends. A contrast from full-bodied fruit driven New World reds or smooth Rhone blends and, unless a preferred style, disappointing overall. Past cellaring.   84

YALUMBA ’THE Y SERIES’ VIOGNIER 2008,  South Australia, 14.5% D, #624502  $14.95   (Tasted February 7, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 rated 88 (July 2009) and described by Harvey Steiman www.winespectator.com as “Bright and tangy, with floral and green berry flavors that linger on the citrusy finish.”  My notes: The 2004 and 2006 vintages were previously tasted with good recollections. The 2008 has retained the greenish cast to a mid golden colour. A strong imagination senses lemon and pineapple in the nose and the first sip has consistent flavours of lemon-lime and melon complete with the associated tartness and creamy texture. The citrus-melon combination continues for a long finish before ending adding a smooth roundness and a light pithiness. Medium-bodied with no sweet sense and dry rather than extra dry. Drinking well now.  85

JANSZ TASMANIA PREMIUM NV ROSÉ, Tasmania, Australia, 12.5% D, #037499  $24.75  (Tasted February 14, 2011)  CS

the Aftermath

A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 rated 90 (June 2010) and described by Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW www.erobertparker.com  as “… a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay receiving 2.5 - 3 years on its lees. With a very pale salmon color, it reveals aromas of rose petals, strawberries and crumbled biscuits plus subtle notes of peaches and honeysuckle. A nice backbone of high acidity is balanced by 9 g/l of dosage and some autolytic richness lending pleasantly toasty/creamy flavours.  My notes:  A slight yeastiness is all this aroma holds, more was expected. A full burst of bubbles and a continuous stream very fine to tease the palate against a background of brilliant salmon colour. Bubbles explode with a gulp and flavours of light citrus, cream and berry entertain the first sip then fades quickly to a carbonated finish. A delightful sipper and would be great with fresh oysters or crab cakes. Enjoyable as an introduction to a King Crab Valentine feast. A light-bodied bubbly that will last a few years without harm.  88



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KLEINE ZALZE BARREL FERMENTED VINEYARD SELECTION CHARDONNAY 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.0% D, #096495  $15.95  (Tasted February 12, 2011)  CS
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A Vintages release on February 5, 2011 described anonymously (undated) as “This dry, creamy-textured Chardonnay is a born extrovert, showing off lovely citrus and tree fruit aromas and flavours that blend nicely with the oak elements… “ My notes:  A chardonnay that flows smoothly into a glass with mid bright gold colours and a buttery film. An elegant bouquet of spiced citrus with a whiff of almond honey followed by a banana and citrus flavour with well balanced tang then finishing dry on the tongue. As a sipper, full-bodied, has a citrus tang and ends extra dry with a somewhat compensating warmth - scrumptious. Cellaring a few years should be OK - not longer to retain freshness. Have with anything fishy or creamy cheese pastas.  90
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VERAMONTE SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2009, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 13.5%  D, #602649   $13.95  (Tasted February 14, 2011)  CS
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A vintages release on November 13, 2010 rated 88 and described by Josh Reynolds  www.wineaccess.ca  (Mar/Apr 2010) as “Pale yellow. High-pitched, spicy aromas of lime zest, grapefruit and talc, with a suave floral overtone. Juicy, sharply focused citrus and mineral flavors expand and gain depth in the middle palate, picking up a juicy pear quality. The talc note returns on the finish, which is refreshingly nervy and dry.”  My notes: The 2008 chardonnay (#494443) was tasted in November last year rated 88 - a good start. The sauvignon blanc is a light blond with a green tinge, delicate with a thin film that cascades down the glass. The nose has a nutty nettles aroma gooseberries in the distant background. Nicely tart and slightly smooth with a smart citrus finish fading slowly to a dry pithy ending. An acceptable sipper and a fair pairing with crab legs for a Valentines supper. A drink now. 84
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ALBERT BICHOT BOURGOGNE ‘VIEILLES VIGNES’ PINOT NOIR 2008, Burgundy, France, 12.5% D, #166959  $13.45*  (Tasted February 11, 2011)  CS
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A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Albert Bichot Bourgogne Pinot Noir is bursting with aromas and flavours of raspberries with hints of spice… “  My notes:  The label has ‘Vieilles Vignes’ which was previously a Vintages release on January 9, 2010 under #043331 @ $16.95, still listed but not available. The Vintages Panel note (Aug 2009) for #043331 matches this bottle closely. Now for #166959: The receding film leaves a brocaded rim, slow legs and a grey toned pinkish rim deepening into the bowl to a charcoal ruby red colour. Medium-bodied, silky smooth with a polite acid and ribbons of earthy strawberry and red cherry flavours threading the palate. Flavours fade slowly ending with dry tannins and mineral biased fruit. A European pinot to pair with cedar planked salmon or rotisseried rosemary chicken or slowly sip. Cellar up to four years. 89


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PIERRE ANDRÉ BOURGOGNE ‘VIEILLES VIGNES’ PINOT NOIR RÉSERVE 2008, Burgundy, France, 12.5% D, #168427  $16.05  (Tasted February 17, 2011) CS

A General listing described anonymously (undated) as “Bright ruby red colour, ripe cherry and rasberry aromas; dry, light body; cherry and cranberry flavours with balanced acidity and clean finish. … “  My notes: A mid raspberry colour in the glass, a thin film with fast tears and aromas of earthy berries contradicts the character of ‘vieilles vignes’ and ‘reserve’ in my mind. Light-bodied, smooth, well balanced but light on acid and tannin and finishing with a thin cranberry flavouring. Would not impress as a social sipper in a mixed crowd - might pass paired with a ham steak, veal scallopini or a broccoli and cheese casserole. A drink now. 79
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CHÂTEAU PEY LA TOUR GRAND VIN DE BORDEAUX 2007, Bordeaux, France, 13.0%  XD, #925859  $19.95  (Tasted February 23, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on May 15, 2010 described as “Modern-styled, but definitely rooted in Bordeaux, this rich and elegant red features cassis, ripe black cherry, cedar and vanilla flavours, leading to a chewy and medium finish that suggests plenty of succulent sweet cassis… ”  My notes: Comes with a Gold Medal from the Concours Mondial Bruxelles 2009. This vintage has 95% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot compared with the 2005 (rated 89 in January 2008) that had 89%, 8% and 3% of the respective varieties and was priced $3 more. Almost black black cherry in colour and a well blended scent of earthy woods and just perceptible berry. The film is well established running long legs with no staining and the first sip confirms a European process as a full oak treatment masks most fruit that comes forward in a long cassis and blackberry finish. Medium-bodied with well balanced tannin and acid the mouth is left dry, bright and woody. Have with savoury lamb shank or beef stew. This may develop an interesting complexity with four or more years in the cellar but drinking acceptably now. 88 

RUSTENBERG BRAMPTON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 13.5% XD, #203901  $13.95  (Tasted February 23, 2011)  CS

A Vintages release on February 19, 2011 rated 3 ½ (of 5) by Winnie Bowman  (2010) and described as “Fresh, intense tropical fruit, [the] 2009 [is] round and balanced, [with] a clean line of minerality & firm acidity. Intense, zesty finish.”  My notes: A light blond colour and aromas of muted gooseberries and nettles. The first sip shows a shallow roundness with tropical flavours that provide an interesting initial platform suitable for savoury dishes and light Japanese but not spicy Thai - was enjoyable with Grilled salmon filets. The finish brings out a faint lime zest and a mineral chalkiness - not extra dry. A few years cellaring may be ‘fruitful’ developing breadth of textures while retaining subtle flavours.  86