Monday, April 03, 2006

April Reds (9): Australia Shiraz, USA Zin, Italy Valpol, France Cab Franc, Spain Tempra, Australia Blend, Chile Merlot, Canada Pinot Noir, Spain Blend

KILIKANOON 'KILLERMAN'S RUN' SHIRAZ 2002, South Australia, 14.5% XD, #925453 $18.95 (Tasted April 18, 2006)

A Vintages release April 15, 2006 and described as ".... is produced from vineyards Kevin Mitchell sources primarily in the Clare Valley and Barossa. It is a dense, full-throttle, big, chewy, peppery, black fruit-dominated Shiraz offering sweet tannin, an attractive plushness, and an up-front style designed for consumption over the next 2-4 years. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, Oct. 2004)." Winecurrent.com says: "... ready to drink now and will be a delicious partner for grilled lamb during the summer. It provides wads of sweet black fruit and black pepper, a plump texture that's smooth and mouth-filling, and ripe, easily-managed tannins. (RP)" and rates it four stars of five. Alan Kerr says: "This is pretty, dense, full of flavour and well balanced. I find a chewy creamy palate with layers of black fruit, pepper and star anise. Good value and ready to sip." Beppi says: "Thick and creamy, it shows black cherry, vanilla and hints of spice and tar, with a fresh kick of acid on the finish." My notes: Cedar and plum aromas from a dark ruby colour. Flavours are cedar, sharp blackberry, pepper, and cinnamon.The finish is of woody berries with a drying tannin. Went well with moroccan lamb and couscous and should with any red meat grilled with a barbarian spice. Cellaring for a few years will mellow the acid and integrate into a smoother structure. Fairly smooth now and a sipper if you're into DRY tannic wild berry. Even seemed smoother after a day or so!

GNARLY HEAD 'OLD VINE' ZINFANDEL 2004, Calif. USA, 14.5% XD, #678698 $17.95 (Tasted April 17, 2006)

A Vintages release (date unkown and not described). Natalie MacLean says: "I love this wine! Made from 80-year-old gnarly vines that are head pruned, it has wonderful aromas of brambleberry, blackberry, cherry, liquorice and smoke. It's supple and a great complement to a wide range of dishes including pork, chicken, steak and tomato-sauce pasta. Medium- to full-bodied. Score: 90/100 - tied for NM's Favourite Red Wine". The Gismondi website rates it 85/100 saying "Cedar bark, chocolate, prune, black cherry, prickly nose. Soft, round, slightly dry entry with warm cedar bark, peppery, mocha, resiny, licorice flavours. Simple commercial dry, red wine with a slightly tannic finish." My notes: A 'prickly' cedar nose with possibly a raw plum note. A dense ruby colour, full-bodied with a prune and cherry flavour and a strong tannic, acid bite. Improves slightly with decanting but nothing worthwhile imho. The finish is long, sharp and tannic craving a grilled steak or full-flavoured stew - not a sipper. Did not go with grilled pork chops, baked yam and green salad with light basalmic dressing.

BOLLA 'LE POIANE' VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2001, Veneto, Italy, 13.5% XD, #135293 $19.95 (Tasted April 15, 2006)

A Vintages release on April 15, 2006 and described as "Unlike standard Valpolicella, Bolla's 'Le Poiane' goes through the secondary fermentation of ripassato. The juice is pumped onto the skins of grapes left over from their Amarone wine production and allowed to macerate for 20 days. The wine is then aged for one to two years in small oak barrels prior to bottling. Deeper in colour, bolder in flavour and higher in alcohol than most Valpolicellas., this wine matches a wider range of cuisine including steak, lamb or rich pasta sauces." The website says: "Aged for up to two years in oak casks, Le Poiane is a dry, full-bodied, spicy wine, intensely ruby red in color, velvety rich, complex and exceptionally well-balanced. Serve with game, roast beef, beef stew, spaghetti with meatballs, agnolitti and barbecued chicken." My notes: The grapes used in Valpolicella are Corvina Veronese (40-70%), Rondinella (20-40%) and Molinara (5-20%). The vintner can also add up to 15% complementary varieties, which include Rossignola, Negrara, Trentina, Barbera and Sangiovese. 'Superiore' is produced with at least a year of aging, and must be 12% alcohol or more. The 2001 has a soft, plummy, fig nose and a ruby colour with a suspicion of brick on the edge, similar to the 1999 vintage. Medium-bodied with flavours of tar, plums, touch of raisins, a little black pepper and a pleasant sharp edge. The finish is very long and plummy with a tobacco note. Already aged five years another two years may be the limit. Pair with any red meats prepared in any full-flavoured style: stews, roasted ribs in a caramellized onion sauce, grilled steaks, grilled hot Italian sausage, etc. To me, a super valpolicella sipper.

CHINON 2001, DOMAINE CHARLES PAIN, 'CHEZELET', Panzoult, France, 12.0% XD, CP144-2246 $17.83 (Tasted April 13, 2006).

Opimian describes the 2000 vintage as "the Domaine produces three different cuvées, all of which we tasted before choosing the most generous from the 2000 vintage. The colour has a dense, closely packed maroon hue, followed by a wonderful aroma showing a vibrant, juicy structure with forward spice and herbal quality. Fleshy flavours with rich morello cherry add piquancy to the delightfully earthy souvenirs of the 'terroir'. A true Cabernet Franc." My notes: Opimian shipped the 2001 vintage instead, which was received November 2002 and cellared 'til now. Still has a deep ruby red colour with a delicate vanilla and soft black cherry nose. The flavours are mild, silky, ripe black cherry supported by a backbone of soft tannins and subdued acids. The finish is moderate, smooth and earthy. If sipping let air and note nose and flavour change - but really a red meat or game bird wine. Have with prime rib to full-flavoured stews, turkey breast or legs, pheasant, etc. Should be able to cellar another four years without harm.

RISCAL TEMPRANILLO 2004, Castilla y Leon, Spain, 14.0% XD, #620898 $11.45 (Tasted April 7, 2006)


The LCBO describes this as " Medium ruby red; aromas of red berry, sandlewood and oak; dry, sweet berry, with a slight tannic grip. Serve with grilled lamb loins or medium cheese." Tony Aspler says "....100% Tempranillo grapes. The wine is ruby-purple in colour with a bouquet of black cherry, minerals and sweet oak. It's full-bodied, earthy with concentrated fruit flavours on a solid oak base. Works well with red meat dishes." My notes: A clear ruby with aromas of cherry and oak. Medium-bodied, an earthy cherry flavour with a tannin and acid edge. The cherry finish is short lived leaving an earthy aftertaste. A meal red... have with pizzas, hamburgers, chili con carne - or just skip it.

HAMILTON'S EWELL VINEYARDS ‘STONEGARDEN' GRENACHE, SHIRAZ, MOUVÈDRE 2003, Barossa, Australia, 14.5% XD, #662973 $18.95 (Tasted April 7, 2006)

A Vintages release April 1, 2006 noting that "This vibrant and plush Grenache-based blend from the incomparable Barossa Valley offers terrific value. Expect ripe raspberry fruit, mint, spice and chocolate character along with notes of oak and vanilla on the long finish. Enjoy with Shepherd's pie or a beef rib roast." The winecurrent.com newsletter rates it four and a half stars saying: "... usually abbreviated 'GSM'. On the other hand, the wine's as much a mouthful as the full name. This was a "wow!" wine for me, and I dickered between 4.5 and 5 stars. It delivers beautiful fruit with marvelous complexity and a really elegant texture that has hints of the best sort of rusticity - an edge that lifts the wine with another dimension. .... and make sure you snag some of this (RP)." Gord Stimmell rates this 90 saying "brims with smoke, wild blueberry and cedar charm from ...Oz." My notes: The original Hamilton's Ewell Vineyards was sold to Mildara Wines in 1979.... and the brand disappeared by 1988. Mark Hamilton, a grandson and a former Director of the original winery, re-established the brand... and gradually built the largest private holding of vineyards on the Barossa Valley floor. Colour is a smoky black cherry with nose to match, full of soft smoke, mint and black cherry. The flavours reflect the colour and nose: full-bodied with ripe plums and berries - rich and dense. Charm? More like 'Gutsy' to me. Decant or air twenty minutes minimum .... then it's a mellow sipper with a long, warm, smooth finish. Have with full flavoured stews or roasts. Can be cellared for several years yet.

VINA TARAPACA MERLOT 2004, Maipo, Chile, 13.5% D, #558668 $9.40 (Tasted April 5, 2006)

Tony Aspler describes this as "If you're looking for a tasty Merlot under $10... The wine is dense purple in colour with a smoky, blackcurrant and minerally nose; it's medium to full-bodied, dry and chunky in the mouth with a blackcurrant flavour and an earthy note. It finishes with soft tannins. You won't find a better Merlot at the price. Try it with shoulder of lamb or beef stew." The website says of their export merlot: "Intense varietal aroma, with notes of red fresh fruits, light spicy notes of black pepper and cinnamon, touches of caramel and tobacco. Medium body, well balanced, fresh, with a pleasant finish. Smooth flavorful. With sweet and ripe tannins." My notes: A General listing with a ruby red colour and an unusual jam, mineral and leather nose. Flavours include raspberry jam and milk chocolate mint. A medium-bodied meal wine, with balanced tannin and acid. Can't see it aging well. Have with hot dogs or burgers - not by itself. I'll save $10 and skip it.

MIKE WEIR ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2004 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 13.0% XD, #000075 $21.95 (Tasted April 4, 2006)

A Vintages release April 1, 2006 noting "An impressive debut, the aromas suggest cherry and cocoa powder. Dry and medium-bodied, it has a nice combo of fruit flavour and tannic structure with a medium-long finish. Although enjoyable now, it would benefit with 2-3 years in the cellar. (Vintages panel, Feb. 2006)." The winecurrent.com newsletter says: "... even though this Pinot plays down the middle of the fairway right through the palate. From tee-off to finish, the complex fruit hits the sweet spot, and winemaker Craig McDonald has balanced it off well with the wood. Par it with grilled lamb (RP)." And Beppi says: "Like most good pinots [this] is medium-bodied and delicate. If you're new to the subtleties of wine or simply prefer the big, fat style of, say, a Greg Norman cabernet from Australia, this wine may not be for you. But it's expertly made, showing classic pinot flavours of red berries and beetroot and a hint of earth, carried on a silky frame with a subtle, slightly tannic backbone. Close your eyes and you can almost imagine you're drinking a decent red Burgundy (the benchmark for good pinot noir). It's an ideal red for fish or veal." Gord Stimmell rates it 90 and says "..impressive strawberry, cherry and exotic spice." My notes: Produced by Creekside Estate Winery under the Mike Weir Estates label, a bright ruby, medium-bodied to light- with aromas of berry, cardamon and light oak. Flavours of faint cherry, earth and light spice with noticeable tannins and a bright edge which carry through to a long finish. Not a sipper unless with a creamy brie or tasty edam, better paired with lightly flavoured meats: prime rib, ham steak, veal schnitzel or rack of lamb. Should integrate and mellow textures with a few years cellaring but unlikely worth it imho.

BODEGAS H.P. PASCUAS ‘VIÑA PEDROSA' 2003, Duero, Spain, 13.0% XD, #673517 $17.95 (Tasted April 3, 2006)

A Vintages release April 1, 2006 saying: "For value, it is hard to beat the 2003 Vina Pedrosa, an exuberant, deep ruby/purple-tinged wine displaying loads of cedar wood, creme de cassis, licorice, and spice box characteristics. Fleshy and opulent, with crisp, zesty acidity, this young vine cuvee is a terrific effort to drink over the next 5-6 years. Score - 90. (Robert Parker Jr., www.erobertparker.com, June 2005)." The winecurrent.com newsletter rates four and 1/2 stars saying: "A really delicious and bargain-priced red with a generous texture, full dark fruit with accents of wood and spice, and excellent balance. Here's a rich red with texture that's made for food. The tannins are firm but manageable, and I would love a bottle of this with a rack of lamb, grilled medium-rare (RP)." My notes: Pours a rich ruby with a purple tinge and a nose of raspberry and anise. The flavour is a light raspberry and cherry with a distinct acerb edge, sharp for spicy or savoury meat dishes. An unusual wild berry and cedar finish with the sharpness easing off reasonably. Went well with grilled backribs sprinkled liberally with Barberian steak spices. A sharp sipper like eating wild berries. At peak now... cellaring may mellow still retaining the bright fruit - try two years and see.

Sunday, April 02, 2006

April Whites (14): Canada Pinot Gris(2), France Blend, Canada Chard(7), USA Symph, Canada Gewurz, Italy Pinot Grigio, Canada Blend

DANIEL LENKO OLD VINES CHARDONNAY (AMERICAN OAK) 1999, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% XD, Winery $? (Tasted April 25, 2006)

The website says of the 2002 vintage ($19.95): "Toast, smoke and butterscotch flavours lead the way, with pineapple, peach and spice unfolding a deep and intense experience." My notes: The 1999 vintage was purchased from the winery on May 14, 2001 and cellared until now. The same golden hue as the 'French Oak' version but with aromas of mild ripe pineapple and wild flowers. Medium-bodied with flavours of apricot and apple with some creamy caramel, light lime and a balanced acid. A long finish carries light apricot, citrus and caramel evenly on the palate. Although the original fresh varietal flavours are gone the structure is more complex and very sippable. Have with any asian fare, cold salmon slices on greens, as an aperitif or with italian shaved meats. Cellaring has produced a unique and tasty chardonnay, for sure.

MALIVOIRE PINOT GRIS 2002 (and 2000), Beamsville, Canada, 12.0% XD, #591305 $18.00 (Retasted April 24, 2006)

My notes: The 2002 vintage was tasted January and June of last year. The 2002 is an appealing deep peach colour with very light aromas of peach fuzz with a touch of caramel. Purchased from the winery November 2003 because of its enormous fruit and creamy spice - the fruit has changed to a soft prune and caramel with no creamy spice. Finish is warm, short and somewhat bland. Should be OK with white fish dishes, but not chicken breast or pork tenderloin. Cellared too long. The 2000 was tasted last September with the comment "... Considerably different than the 2002 ... " Retasted April 27th, has the same deep peach hue, but now it has no fruit nor caramel, no creamy spice and this, the last bottle in the cellar, was discarded.

CHATEAU DE MONTGUERET CREMANT DE LOIRE BRUT NV, Loire, France, 12.5% D, #621896 $18.95 (Tasted April 24, 2006)

My notes: The label describes the blend as Chenin, Cabernet and Chardonnay. My notes: The LCBO stocks this on their bubbly shelf periodically. The colour is a light blond and aromas of vanilla and yeast (birthday cake to me), pleasant but light. Bubbles are slightly frothy at the rim with a continuous stream giving a tingle to the palate. Flavours include a citrus assortment with a finish that is clean, light and slightly creamy. This has a decent tang and went well will leftover cornish hens and salad - but there are fruitier and frothier for the money. Not for cellaring and not a value.

DANIEL LENKO OLD VINES CHARDONNAY (FRENCH OAK) 1999, Beamsville, Canada, 13.0% XD, Winery $24.95 (Tasted April 23, 2006)

The website says of the 2002 vintage - now $29.95: " Vanilla, toast, coconut and spice flavours balance beautifully with ripe pear and peach overtones. A rich, creamy texture engulfs the palate, showing the power and elegance of fruit from old vines." My notes: The 1999 was purchased from the winery on May 14, 2001 and cellared until now. A golden hue with faint aromas of wild clover and honey. Medium-bodied with delicate flavours of melon, some pear, some honey, some light acid - no cream in this one. The finish is soft on the palate and short. Perhaps past peak, was quickly lost with roast cornish hens with mapled squash and brussels.

'NCT' WINERY WARREN CLASSIC 'PIEKAN VINEYARD' CHARDONNAY 2004 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 14.2% XD, Winery $27.95 (Tasted April 15, 2006)

The College tasting sheet says "This wine is all about elegance and complexity. The nose is intense with vanilla, cantelope and caramellized pears. The palate is soft, dry and refined with pears, green apple and a long finish. Enjoy with lobster, game birds or veal." The label says: ".... barrel fermented/barrel aged in French oak... crafted by Jim Warren." My notes: The 2004 was purchased at the College on April 8th. A light blond white with a distinct wild clover nose. Medium- to full-bodied with flavours of light honey, melon, pear with a pronounced bite. Didn't show its high alcohol level. The finish is moderate with a lasting light butter and fresh varietal fruit. A dry sipper showing a subtle influence of fermentation in French oak. Cellaring at least two years should bring some caramel forward and form more of a silky structure. Went well with traditional halibut and chips.... and should with any seafood dish, especially lobster or scallops. Overpriced but the College warrants the support.

EASTDELL 'ESCARPMENT' BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2003 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 13.0% XD, #651505 $18.95 (Tasted April 14, 2006)

The website says it won a Gold Medal at Cuvée 2005 (Niagara) and has a "A long mellow finish with very subtle oak." The label says: "... fermented in American, French and Hungarian oak. Notes of tropical fruit and vanilla are followed by a balanced finish." My notes: Purchased at the winery on April 8th. Colour is a light blond and the bouquet is a soft citrus and clover. Medium-bodied with lemon, some honey, some butter and, perhaps a trifle light, acid edge (comes across on the flabby side). A lemon and pear finish leaves a long, light cream impression on the palate. Should be great with Greek salad with lots of olives, a mushroom/red pepper and anchovy pizza, a green salad with salmon pieces - flexible enough for light seafood. Perhaps priced on the high side but a pleasant sipper and flexible meal white. Should be able to cellar a couple of years, likely no longer.

STONEY RIDGE 'FOUNDER'S SIGNATURE COLLECTION' CHARLOTTE'S CHARDONNAY 2004 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 11.0% D, #497230 $19.95 (Tasted April 13, 2006)

A Vintages release on January 21, 2006 and described as "This unoaked Chardonnay shows remarkable varietal character. Very pale straw in colour, the nose offers apple cinnamon, peach, pear and honey aromas. There's a 'fruit basket' of flavours on the crisp medium full-bodied palate and the fruit just keeps on coming on the long lingering finish. (Vintages panel, Nov. 2005)." The website 2004 vintage notes are brief, "A pale yellow with brilliant clarity, a moderate fruity intensity with a distinct bouquet and a pleasant first impression. This wine is soft from a sweetness perspective, balanced by a clean refreshing acidity level. Adequate alcohol. Finish medium to long. Serve with spicy foods: Thai, Szechwan, turkey and chicken, also soft to medium cheeses or shellfish." Also "In a unique return to his winemaking roots [Jim Warren left from Stoney Ridge in 1999], Jim Warren created a new Founder's Signature Collection for Stoney Ridge. Representing a creative partnership between [the current winemaker] Liubomir [Popovici] and Jim, this unique bottling reflects Jim's personal winemaking philosophy of producing the best wine possible from the best grapes grown." My notes: A convenient screwtop. An off-white with a soft wildflower bouquet. Medium- to light-bodied with flavours of melon, clover honey and a bright, well balanced acid. The finish is medium fading quickly as a dry, clean, clover honey. No butter or cream to support the delicate chardonnay fruit. Well made but not a 'Jim Warren' imho. Was just OK with a grilled salmon steak... no intrusive sweetness. Pair with mild cheeses, light fish dishes, or cold chicken slices on a green salad with a light dressing. A drink-now and not a value.

IRONSTONE 'OBSESSION' SYMPHONY 2004, Calif, USA, 12.0% MD, #355784 $14.95 (Tasted April 11, 2006)

A Vintages release April 1, 2006 and described as "The fruity and floral Symphony grape variety was created at the University of California-Davis by crossing Muscat of Alexandria with Grenache Gris. This popular version from Ironstone is refreshing and charming with a wonderfully aromatic nose and off-dry palate." The winecurrent newsletter gives it four stars and says: "... While this Ironstone product might not be an 'obsession', its release is always eagerly awaited. Similar in style to a Gewürztraminer, it offers rich, spicy aromas that replay in the flavours as spicy peach and apricot. With a crisp texture, it's a marvelous summer sipper, a shoulder-season aperitif, or a great partner to spicy Asian dishes. (RP)" Their website says: "....has youthful aromas that are markedly floral. Extremely drinkable, this lusciously brilliant and fanciful wine is full of fruit flavors, and finishes crisp and clean." My notes: A light straw with aromas of honeysuckle and apricot, light-bodied, off-dry but nicely balanced with natural acid and flavours close to pinot gris with less spice. The finish is moderate that is both warm and fruity. More of a summer sipper (one ice cube) or accompanied by a chilled shrimp ring or broiled reggiano and tomato bruschetta. Was a little light with grilled chicken breast with a ginger sauce and vinaigrette salad - likely OK with grilled white fish dishes or mushroom pastas. A drink-now.

KONZELMANN GEWÜRZTRAMINER RESERVE 2002 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 13.0% MD, #392357 $14.95 (Tasted April 10, 2006)

A Vintages release April 1, 2006 saying "Look for intense aromas of rose, lychee, honey, peach and cloves in this medium-bodied Gewürz from Niagara legend Herbert Konzelmann. An amazing value, it's just off-dry and would be a terrific match for butter chicken or spicy Thai cuisine." The winecurrent newsletter gives it four stars and says: "A well-made Gewürz that touches all the right bases. It has attractive aromas and off-dry flavours of spice, musk and peach-apricot, good medium weight, and a nice clean finish with a characteristic hint of bitterness. Pair it confidently with spicy Thai dishes. (RP)" My notes: A rich, crystal gold in colour and soft ripe apricot and honey aromas that build as the glass warms - perhaps slight oxidation. A full-bodied white with a strong creamy flavour of lychee nuts and spice - not a flavour for everyone. The fruit sugars are nicely balanced by bright acids leaving a long spicy finish. A drink-now. Have with Seshuan, spicy seafood or, marginally, with grilled ham steaks.

‘BORTOLUZZI' PINOT GRIGIO 2004 IGT, Veneto, Italy, 13.0% XD, #717330 $15.95 (Tasted April 9, 2006)

A Vintages release of April 4, 2006 and described as "Pretty apple, anise and apple blossom aromas dominate this fresh, balanced, structured wine. It has a personality all its own that is frequently missing from other northern Italian Pinot Grigios. Enjoy with freshwater fish or pasta in a cream sauce. (VINTAGES panel, Aug. 2005)." Winecurrent.com rates it four stars saying "A well-made Pinot Grigio at a very good price. It stands out from the mass of Italian Pinot Grigios. With quite elegant and delicate fruit flavours (in the apricot-peach zones) and good structure and balance, it's a great match for grilled white fish. (RP)" The website says "A crystalline straw yellow coloured wine with a scent of acacia flowers and exotic fruits. It is soft on the palate, persistent and full bodied. Serving temperature 12-14°C" My notes: Has a blond colour with a light lemon and lime nose. Medium-bodied, soft creaminess and mild acids support flavours of lemon and melon. The finish is long and warm citrus. Went well with grilled Atlantic salmon, rum soaked sweet potato and green salad. Should cellar well for a year but drinking well now - have with shaved ham, proscuitto, grilled chicken or seafood.

'NCT' RIESLINGTRAMINER 2004 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 11.0% D, Winery $12.95 (Tasted April 9, 2006)

College notes: "This wine shows intense aromas of peaches, oranges, rose petals and limestone. On the palate it has a pleasant sweetness and tones of candied apple and apricots." This is one of many wines crafted by Professor/Winemaker Jim Warren and students of the Winery and Viticulture Technician Program. My notes: First tasted as part of an evening dinner at the College in the fall of 2005, this bottle came from a Niagara wine trip this weekend. A light blond in colour and a fragrance of citrus and wild flowers. Medium-bodied, creamy with flavours of both varietals showing: a light spice and lime from the gewurz and a light pear from the riesling, a great combination for light seafood appetizers or main courses. The fruity sweetness and well balanced acid makes this a pleasing sipper with a citrus, almost orange, zest finish. Cellaring up to two years may integrate and smooth textures even more but try after a year so not to lose the fruit. A real value imho.

MIKE WEIR ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2004 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 13.0% D, #000026 $15.95 (Tasted April 3, 2006)

A Vintages release April 1, 2006 noting: "This ‘above par' Chard wonderfully integrates all the elements of fruit, acidity and oak. The nose has layered green apple, tropical fruit, citrus and cinnamon notes. Dry, medium-full bodied with a nice backbone of acidity, there is subtle oak spice on the long finish. It would make a delicious match for King Crab. (VINTAGES panel, Feb. 2006)" And the winecurrent.com newsletter rates four stars describing: "The Product Code number that Mike Weir's wines wear make it look as if the LCBO has rolled the odometer back. The number after the dollar sign is more impressive, though, for a Chardonnay of this quality. It offers lovely fruit in the peach-apricot range, nuanced with sweet spicy notes and balanced with grapefruit crispness, and a smooth texture. It's a great partner to lobster or roast grain-fed chicken. (RP)." And Beppi says: "Medium-bodied and silky, this nicely balanced white offers up nuances of ripe melon, honey and hints of toasty oak and spice. It's attractively priced and should be a nice match for sea bass or roast chicken." My notes: A light blond, crystal clear, with a prominent nose of wild flowers and lime, an aromatic sniffer. Medium-bodied with flavours that are predominantly citrus, bright but not sharp, grapefruit and papaya - an unusually fresh and fruity chardonnay. A long citrus finish cleanses the palate. Perfect for lobster, crab, shrimp, scallops, then on to anything seafood in nature. Should be OK to cellar for a year but drinking well now.

TAWSE BEAMSVILLE BENCH RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2002 VQA, Beamsville, Canada, 14.1% XD, Winery $42.00 (Tasted April 2, 2006)

David Lawrason (Toronto Life, August 2005) rates it four and one-half stars saying "Chardonnay minimalists will find this opulent one overstated; hedonists will love it. Deborah Paskus's chardonnays have an oxidative, hot cashew and apple pie quality. This one is a sundae with finesse, fortitude and great length." Gord Stimmell rates it 91/100 "Here was that rich chard signature, butternut and hazelnut and lime peel, a blend of elegance and power." My notes: Purchased from the winery in July, 2005, now a golden yellow with full aromas of butterscotch, a touch of citrus and the smooth influence of French oak ageing. The flavours partnered well with grilled scallops wrapped in bacon - lots of warmth, nuttiness and the zest of limes in the long finish. Full-bodied, very smooth sipper - not a quaffer since time is needed to savour the flavours and butter texture. Better with a spicy bearded mussel appetizer or with light meat and seafood dishes. Will cellar several years but drinking well now.

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

More March Whites (1): Canada Gewurz

FIELDING ESTATE GEWURZTRAMINER 2004, Beamsville, Canada, 12.5% D, Winery $13.45 (Retasted March 22, 2006)

The winery describes this as: "Rose petals and ripe melons on the nose - medium body...offers a long finish with lingering tropical fruits. 270 cases produced." Natalie says: "A lovely and evocative gewurz, with aromas of rose petals and lychee nuts.... Score: 90/100." My notes: Cellared and last tasted July 24, 2005 (see Archives) the 'faint wild rose' has changed to a light wild clover and citrus zest. Medium-bodied with a light lemon/lime melon flavour and a long delicate kiwi and citrus finish. An interesting, well balanced sipper less tart and with a lighter 'creaminess' that threw me last tasting. Should pair nicely with steamed mussels, toasted bruscetta, vegetable pizza, Asian foods or grilled white fishes. No reason not to cellar for a few years although drinking well now.

Thursday, March 16, 2006

More March Reds (8): Australia Shiraz,Chile Cab Sauv, Chile Merlot, Italy Valpol, Chile Blend, Canada Cab Sauv, Australia Pinot Noir, Chile Pinot Noir

DEEN DE BORTOLI VAT 8 SHIRAZ 2004, New South WAles, Australia, 13.5% D, #621649 $14.95 (Tasted March 28, 2006)

A General listed wine with no LCBO description. The label says: "This generously flavoured Shiraz displays concentrated ripe berry and black fruit characters with firm tannins softened and balanced by twelve months in oak." Their website says: "Aromas of black fruit mixed with spicy oak. Intense spicy fruit flavours with hints of cracked black pepper. Sweet fleshy fruits with subtle vanillin and savoury oak.This wine can be enjoyed immediately or cellared for up to 3 years." My notes: Different from DE BORTOLI 'dB' SHIRAZ 2004 (#595314@$12.95) tasted January 7, 2006 (see Archives) and an improved offering. A soft spicy nose with ripe berries and pepper with bright black fruit flavours carrying into a long, smooth lip-smacking finish with some spice left over. Pair with red meats with a savoury touch, medium to full-flavoured cheeses, meat and cheese pizzas, hamburgers, a variety of meaty dishes that make this a house staple in the cellar.


VINA CARMEN CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2003, Maipo Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #358309 $16.95 (Tasted March 26, 2006)

The LCBO says "Deep red/violet colour; aromas of plum, blackcherry fruit, leather, vanilla with hints of cedar, smoke & coffee; dry, med-full body, well balanced, with moderate tannins, ripe blackcurrant/blackberry & mint flavours; long sweet berry fruit finish. Lamb, roast duck and other rich poultry dishes." VH of Winecurrent.com rates it five stars saying "This is one of those wines about which wine snobs get upset when they see all those stars. After all, how good can it be at this price? Damn good. It is a stunningly, rich red that bursts forward with aromas of mint and cherries. It is full-bodied, creamy smooth and beautifully structured. Juicy cassis and black, spicy plum flavours abound and the ripe silky smooth tannins and zingy tang coalesce into a hummer of a wine. It finishes with dark chocolate, raspberries and a fair grip. Even so, you can enjoy it now and to 2012 with a slab of grilled medium-rare venison smothered in sautéed shitakes." The website describes it as "85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, 5% Merlot and richly concentrated and complex . A wine that combines impressive wild black cherries, black currant and cassis with some hints of mint, cedar, clove, tobacco and spices. Ripe and generous in the palate, sweet fruity flavours, fleshy and powerful, followed by dark bitter chocolate, cigar box and fine structured tannins. A superb length." My notes: A dark ruby, and peppery nose with plums, vanilla and smoke. Initial taste is of tannins, cherries and coffee with a strong and long, dry, cherry finish. Have with anything grilled and meaty red.... or softer meats such a lamb or game meats and full flavoured stews. A sipper if you like very dry - have with full-flavoured cheese, garlic and tomato bruscetta, pizza slices, etc. A great value now but better if cellared several years.


VINA CARMEN RESERVE MERLOT 2003, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #620690 $16.95 (Tasted March 23, 2006)

The LCBO says "Deep ruby red colour; aromas of cherry, oak with earthy notes; dry, medium bodied, with ripe fruit flavours and notes of almond, coffee and plum. Serve with fried mushrooms or lamb." The label says: ".... a generous aroma of berries and prunes, spicy nuances and a beautiful Merlot character. .... Medium- to full-bodied, with great finesse, the wine has an intense richness and a long finish." The website says: "This vintage (2002, Rapel Valley fruit) combines the silky fruit (Merlot), with Carmenere (5%) in the mid palate and Cabernet Sauvignon’s (10%) powerful structure and tannins." My notes: A rich ruby with a warm prune and licorice nose. Medium- to full-bodied with ripe plum, cherry and coffee flavours, a light tannin, and a long, soft finish. A merlot that more carmenere and/or cabernet sauvignon could help, altho' this could be a personal preference, but otherwise a pleasant dry sipper. Pair with mild meats, mild cheeses or grilled mozzarella on focaccia. A drink-now.


LUIGI RIGHETTI VALPOLICELLA ‘CAMPOLIETI' 2003, Marano, Italy, 12.5% D, #695890 $16.95 (Tasted March 22, 2006)

A Vintages release on March 18, 2006 and described as " This offering from the always-reliable Luigi Righetti is mild-ruby in colour with complex scents of dried berry, floral, spice, paraffin, oak and sundried tomato. Light- to medium-bodied, it's crafted in a round, easy-drinking style with lots of flavour and good length. Very versatile, it can go with everything from salmon to roast beef. (VINTAGES panel, July 2005)." The 'smallwineries' website says "Campolieti means 'happy fields' ... The wine is a traditional (Valpolicella) blend of the corvina, rondinella and molinara grape varietals that have had a second fermentation on the pressings of the Amarone grapes ('ripasso')...." Natalie says: "A stunning wine with aromas of leather and chocolate. Nicely woven together. Terrific price. Drink with hearty meat dishes. Score: 90 (of 100) and the 'Best Value Red Wine'. " My notes: A red ruby with a dried berry and slight lavender nose, medium-bodied, with natural flavours of ripe cherry. I didn't get the influence of 'ripasso'... no figs or prunes.... but an appealing valpolicella. Besides sipping, goes with red but not too spicy pasta, prime rib or lamb and leek entrees. A drink-now but no harm in cellaring in the short term.


VINA CARMEN GRANDE VIDURE CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2003, Maipo Valley, Chile, 14.0% D, #439166 $16.95 (Tasted March 19, 2006)

The LCBO says "Deep purple ruby colour with violet hue; intense nose of cassis, licorice, violets, smoky oak, green pepper and herbs with toasty notes; dry, full-bodied flavours as in nose, medium tannins and good length. Leg of lamb, roast or grilled beef, burgers, or a firm, hearty cheese." VH of Winecurrent.com rates it four and a half stars saying "This 60% Carmenère (Grande Vidure) blend has a lovely aromatic profile of toast and black licorice. It is full-bodied with rich ripe fruit flavours that include dark chocolate cherries and spicy raspberries. It has a silky feel and offers good complexity and balance. The dry finish has a touch of earthiness and would be a lovely match to Osso Bucco with truffle risotto. These reserve wines are hand-picked, receive a premium oak regimen plus additional winery-ageing before release." The website describes it as "Dark ruby red in colour. A rich and refined wine, with plenty of ripe fruits character and spices. Intense wild black cherry fruit aroma, followed by notes of laurel, clove, mint, pepper, dark chocolate and black olives. Well structured and concentrated with a lovely balance of jammy and dark ripe fruit along with peppery flavours and sweet oak. Fine grained, smooth and velvety tannins. A complex wine with a long finish." My notes: The website description is pretty well 'on' - a rich ruby colour with a soft black cherry and warm, slight cedar and spice nose. The swallow is full, velvety with ripe berry fruit and delicate tannins and pepper. The finish is long and full of ripe fruit, very pleasant. I'd imagine this could cellar for several years but is drinking well now. Have with any red meats, grilled or roasted, full-flavoured stews, even mushroom risotto or just sip. A great value.

ANGELS GATE ‘SINGLE VINEYARD' CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2004 VQA, Niagara, Canada, 12.5% XD, #678417 $18.95 (Tasted March 18, 2006)

A Vintages release on March 4, 2006 and described as "Dark ruby in colour this is a very appealing wine with lots of ripe red fruit on the nose, notably plums, as well as sweet vanilla oak and violets. Medium full-bodied, very fresh tasting, more ripe fruit flavours and plenty of balancing acidity. The tannins are quite mild and it has a long minerally finish. Great stuff. (VINTAGES panel, Aug. 2005)." The label says "...has an intense nose of dark berries, spice, cassis, red peppers and oak. .... youthful tannins and a dark chocolate finish .. pair with favourite beef and lamb dishes." My notes: A lovely deep ruby, not opaque but clear, with a light nose of oak with a hint of vanilla and spicy blackberries. A medium-bodied red with flavours of clean berries, nothing distinct comes to mind, but light and fresh, well balanced acids and tannin. There is a pleasing brightness in the finish although little flavour is there to carry through. A red for a light meat dish - lamb, rib eye steak, prime rib...... expect it to be a passive partner in a meal. A drink-now.


LINDEMANS BIN 99 PINOT NOIR 2005, South Eastern Australia, 14.0% D, #458661 $11.95 (Tasted March 16, 2006)

The LCBO says "Garnet colour; berry/cherry fruit with earthy/mushroom notes; light- bodied with berry fruit and vanilla on the palate; delicate spicy notes in the finish. Serve with chicken; vegetarian dishes; duck; mushroom risotto." The label says "...is a soft, ripe, full flavoured wine that can be enjoyed with duck, lamb or veal dishes." My notes: A ruby colour with a rose hue and a light strawberry nose. A light-bodied Pinot, smooth and round with a faint flavour of cherries and a hint of strawberry. The finish is moderate, flavourful with some tannin on the palate. A pleasant pinot noir sipper, not full flavoured but low priced. Suitable for a variety of light entrees: pork, turkey, chicken - don't see lamb or beef though. A drink now.

CONO SUR PINOT NOIR 'VARIETAL RANGE' 2005, Rapel Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #341602 $9.95 (Tasted March 16, 2006)

The LCBO says "Ruby red colour; cherries, earth and berries with a touch of spice in both aroma and flavour; dry, medium-body with mild tannin and a soft fruity finish. Serve with spicy casserole, roast capon or ham." The website doesn't list the 'Varietal Range' just the Expressive Varietals (shown) - perhaps the 'Range' is a tier brand made for export. The website says of the 2004 EV: "Almost purplish red in colour, deep and young, our Pinot Noir has a wonderful nose of cherry, raspberry, leather and tobacco notes. Red, fresh fruit is predominant to the palate. Its elegance will strike the drinker: silky, full, structured and softly persistent." The Varietal Range 2005 label says "Taste the voluptiousness of this single varietal Pinot Noir in its rich fruit tones of cherry, plum and strawberry. etc. " My notes: The colour is a light ruby with a rose tinge. The nose is light medicinal with no apparent fruit type. Flavours are mineral with slight tannins and an uninteresting finish. Not a sipper and too light in body and flavour for pairing with foods. Best to skip the 'Range' tier from Cono Sur imho.