CASA NUEVA CARMENERE 2003, Molina, Chile, 13.5%, CP152-2746 (Opimian) $13.08
Opimian says: "Carmenere could be the 'flagship' grape of Chile. Deeply coloured, it has a delightful fragrance of cinnamon, spice, anise and a compote of black plums. a mixture of flavours... into a lingering finish with some soft, husky tannins and good use of oak. Drink in same year." My notes: Cellared March, 2004, is everything Opimian says as far as my taste can tell and hasn't suffered from cellaring a year. It is a violet red with a light aroma of fresh blueberries, cherries, raspberries and cinnamon, not quite the blackcurrant shiraz is but fruitier than a cabernet sauvignon. This is a bright, light- to medium-bodied balance of flavour, tannins and acid. The finish is long and complex. A good sipper and pairs well with tangy salsa, spanish paella, italian sausage, red meats or pasta dishes. Carmenere is a worthwhile varietal for the cellar.
LIKÁN CARMÉNÈRE/CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003, Maule Valley, Chile, 13.5% Organic, #713909 $12.95
Vintages says: "'Likán' is the name of a Mayan ritual where priestesses recovered their powers to connect with the spirit world. A very important sacred element in the ritual was soil, so Concha y Toro has named their organic wine in honour of this ancient ceremony. Our Quality Assurance laboratory has determined that this organic wine contains 20 mg/L of free sulphur. Vintages release March 19, 2005." My notes: The CyT website doesn't have any information about this wine. The bottle has an interesting label reflecting its namesake. The colour is a rich deep ruby much like a full-bodied merlot. The nose is a warm mixture of cinnamon, plums, and black cherries which carries through to the flavours with a silky smooth texture and a bite mixed with firm tannin. The finish is long, ripe plums and leather. As a sipper it's a firm full-bodied red - have with chips and salsa, mature cheeses, or smoked oysters. Pairs with anything red: beef, venison, duck, panserotti pizza, tomato-based pastas or rice dishes.
CA'BIANCA BARBERA D'ASTI DOC 2002, Piedmont, Italy, 13.5%, #588905 $12.95
The label says: "Has a good ageing potential and will accompany red meat, venison, mature cheese." Gord Stimmell (May 11, 2005) rates this an 89 and describes it as: "A real treasure of a red, with richly appointed flavours. Aromas of plum, cedar, black cherry with a black peppery spice lift. Flavours of vanilla, full ripe drenchingly rich plum and exotic spice, with a very smooth, silky finish and nicely integrated tannins. Food suggestion. Veal in a red wine sauce." My notes: As far as my nose could tell, Stimmell's description is accurate but allow to breathe, a glass for ten minutes, the bottle for more. I wouldn't call it a treasure, just an OK value and an 86. Smoothe but not 'silky' as the Likán above, is lighter with a shorter finish, ie. the fruit dies quickly leaving a somewhat flat taste - allowing to breathe helps, so having with finger food is a must or pair with lamb, roast beef, grilled veals or stews. This is a 'drink now' wine and is a General LCBO listing.
Friday, May 13, 2005
Monday, May 09, 2005
3 Chardonnays: NZ, Canada
KIM CRAWFORD UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2004 (and 2001), Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% (12.5%) D, #991950 $19.95 ($18.95)
Vintages says: "Whether oaked or unoaked, Kim Crawford's fine hand with Chardonnay is always apparent. This is an enjoyable drink-young style. The 2004 vintage shows a strong malolactic (acid-softening) influence, with pronounced butterscotch characters and a peachy, fractionally off-dry finish. (Michael Cooper, Buyer's Guide to New Zealand Wine 2005)." My notes: Both vintages are crystal clear with a straw tinge and a soft nose, the 2001, cellared in December 2002, creamier and showing an appealing touch of grassiness. Both have a flavour of delicate peach with a light cream touch - 'butterscotch' is in the feel not the flavour. A reasonable acid balance and not as 'extra dry' as a burgundy white, has a smoothe long finish. Not intended to be cellared beyond a year altho' the screwcap allows this to be extended somewhat depending on the cellar conditions and the 2001, I'd say, improved. 2004 was in Vintages release April 30, 2005. Sip when a fruity or full-flavoured wine isnt your thing. Have either with white fish (e.g. telapia), egg souffle or cold chicken and greens.
DANIEL LENKO OLD VINES CHARDONNAY 1999 (American Oak), Beamsville, Ont., 13.0% D, #Winery $19.95
Lenko website notes (for his 2001 vintage): "Toast, smoke and butterscotch flavours lead the way, with pineapple, peach and spice unfolding a deep and intense experience." My notes: Purchased from the winery and cellared May, 2001. A crystal clear light straw liquid. Nose is now a soft toast with lemon notes. A pleasing cream texture with lemon/melon falvours and a long smoothe finish. This last bottle of the original six was cellared a year too long losing most of its fruit putting a focus on a toasty American oak flavour. An OK sipper but with sufficient crispness for white fish, grilled shrimp and vegetable kebobs or Swiss Chalet chicken with fries.
CAVE SPRING VINEYARD CSV CHARDONNAY 1999, Jordan, Ont., 14.5% XD, #529941 $32.95
LCBO notes: "The current vintage (yr?) was released September 4, 2004. The CSV single vineyard line is Cave Spring's top range. The grapes come from their oldest vineyard with vines that are between 23 and 27 years of age. The winery suggests enjoying this wine with quail, pheasant or guinea hen with mushrooms, pork tenderloin with grain mustard, roast chicken or grilled veal chops." My notes: Purchased at the winery and cellared June, 2003 is still full flavoured but at the price wouldn't chance another year. Current Vintages stock will be a more recent vintage and a few dollars lower. A light pineapple and mandarin nose fills the glass, a clear light straw colour and creamy smoothe approach for a nicely balanced pineapple/melon style - some oak but not much. Has a long, pleasant melon finish, coats the lips. An excellent sipper for those enjoying chardonnay. Pair with any fowl or seafood, eg. Mother's Day dinner of lobster, vegetable kebobs and wild rice.
Vintages says: "Whether oaked or unoaked, Kim Crawford's fine hand with Chardonnay is always apparent. This is an enjoyable drink-young style. The 2004 vintage shows a strong malolactic (acid-softening) influence, with pronounced butterscotch characters and a peachy, fractionally off-dry finish. (Michael Cooper, Buyer's Guide to New Zealand Wine 2005)." My notes: Both vintages are crystal clear with a straw tinge and a soft nose, the 2001, cellared in December 2002, creamier and showing an appealing touch of grassiness. Both have a flavour of delicate peach with a light cream touch - 'butterscotch' is in the feel not the flavour. A reasonable acid balance and not as 'extra dry' as a burgundy white, has a smoothe long finish. Not intended to be cellared beyond a year altho' the screwcap allows this to be extended somewhat depending on the cellar conditions and the 2001, I'd say, improved. 2004 was in Vintages release April 30, 2005. Sip when a fruity or full-flavoured wine isnt your thing. Have either with white fish (e.g. telapia), egg souffle or cold chicken and greens.
DANIEL LENKO OLD VINES CHARDONNAY 1999 (American Oak), Beamsville, Ont., 13.0% D, #Winery $19.95
Lenko website notes (for his 2001 vintage): "Toast, smoke and butterscotch flavours lead the way, with pineapple, peach and spice unfolding a deep and intense experience." My notes: Purchased from the winery and cellared May, 2001. A crystal clear light straw liquid. Nose is now a soft toast with lemon notes. A pleasing cream texture with lemon/melon falvours and a long smoothe finish. This last bottle of the original six was cellared a year too long losing most of its fruit putting a focus on a toasty American oak flavour. An OK sipper but with sufficient crispness for white fish, grilled shrimp and vegetable kebobs or Swiss Chalet chicken with fries.
CAVE SPRING VINEYARD CSV CHARDONNAY 1999, Jordan, Ont., 14.5% XD, #529941 $32.95
LCBO notes: "The current vintage (yr?) was released September 4, 2004. The CSV single vineyard line is Cave Spring's top range. The grapes come from their oldest vineyard with vines that are between 23 and 27 years of age. The winery suggests enjoying this wine with quail, pheasant or guinea hen with mushrooms, pork tenderloin with grain mustard, roast chicken or grilled veal chops." My notes: Purchased at the winery and cellared June, 2003 is still full flavoured but at the price wouldn't chance another year. Current Vintages stock will be a more recent vintage and a few dollars lower. A light pineapple and mandarin nose fills the glass, a clear light straw colour and creamy smoothe approach for a nicely balanced pineapple/melon style - some oak but not much. Has a long, pleasant melon finish, coats the lips. An excellent sipper for those enjoying chardonnay. Pair with any fowl or seafood, eg. Mother's Day dinner of lobster, vegetable kebobs and wild rice.
Monday, May 02, 2005
2 Sauvignon Blancs: NZ
KIM CRAWFORD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2004 (and 2001), Marlborough, NZ, 12.5% XD, #975672 $19.95 ($19.95)
Harvey Steiman (Wine Spectator) says: "Explosively aromatic, brimming with spice, herb and peppery character, surprisingly docile in the mouth, with lovely pear, apple, melon and mineral flavors that linger enticingly. Impeccably balanced. Drink now. Score - 91." Natalie says: "This one has the distinct aroma of talent: ripe green apples, passionfruit and pears. Zippy and refreshing. Score: 93/100." The Kim Crawfprd website says: "Pale straw with touches of green. Classic Sauvignon characters of gooseberry, passionfruit and a touch of African sweetgrass. Unfolds with flavours of passionfruit, gooseberry and subtle herbaceousness. The wine is mouthfilling with good texture and finishes well with crisp acidity and great length. A great aperitif. Ideally suited to asparagus, oysters and summer salads. A wine to drink now and, with careful cellaring, will last up to five years." My notes: Although the Kim Crawford winery is located in Hawkes Bay (on the east coast of the North Island) grapes are selected from Marlborough which is in the north of the South Island, NZ, the same region as Cloudy Bay. Based on the 2001 vintage which lost most of its fruit in a year and became grassy the second year, a claim of five years cellaring seems much....I'd limit it to no more than a year. Not 'explosive' but still a pleasant gooseberry aroma. There is a 'subtle herbaceousness' which distinguishes it from the Cloudy Bay. Some mineral and less roundness in the mouth and lack of depth in the finish that is the $12 difference. A very pleasant sipper which will go with any seafood. Vintages release April 30, 2005. The 2004 has a screwcap.
CLOUDY BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2004 (and 2002), Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #304469 $31.95 ($28.95)
Vintages says of the 2004: "The legend returns. This is the wine that put New Zealand on the map. It remains the country's most sought after wine. Score 5 stars (out of 5)." The Cloudy Bay website says: "The fruit was machine harvested during the cooler night and early morning temperatures and transported directly to the winery. The grapes were de-stemmed and transferred straight to tank presses. Free run and lightly pressed juice was cold settled for 48 hours then racked and inoculated with a neutral yeast strain. The fermentations were carried out in stainless steel tanks; after fermentation the wine remained in contact with yeast lees for about two months, prior to blending in July and subsequent bottling in September." My notes: The 2002 was laid down March, 2003 and has lost seventy percent of the original gooseberry or 'blue spruce' nose. The colour is a shade deeper than the 2004 being a light straw and ageing has introduced a roundness that fills the mouth with each pleasant sip. Finish is a very long and a smoothe gooseberry/melon. Yummy! The 2004 vintage has a screwcap so it would be interesting to see what happens in two years.... but I recommend no more than one year to retain the very appealing aromatic gooseberry nose. More spicy crispness on the tongue than the 2002 but not quite as much mellow roundness, otherwise very similar. Both are pleasant sippers or will go with any seafood, bruschetti, cream pastas (may be stretching it but try it and let me know!), oysters, spicy mussels, salmon pieces on greens, etc. Vintages release April 30, 2005.
Harvey Steiman (Wine Spectator) says: "Explosively aromatic, brimming with spice, herb and peppery character, surprisingly docile in the mouth, with lovely pear, apple, melon and mineral flavors that linger enticingly. Impeccably balanced. Drink now. Score - 91." Natalie says: "This one has the distinct aroma of talent: ripe green apples, passionfruit and pears. Zippy and refreshing. Score: 93/100." The Kim Crawfprd website says: "Pale straw with touches of green. Classic Sauvignon characters of gooseberry, passionfruit and a touch of African sweetgrass. Unfolds with flavours of passionfruit, gooseberry and subtle herbaceousness. The wine is mouthfilling with good texture and finishes well with crisp acidity and great length. A great aperitif. Ideally suited to asparagus, oysters and summer salads. A wine to drink now and, with careful cellaring, will last up to five years." My notes: Although the Kim Crawford winery is located in Hawkes Bay (on the east coast of the North Island) grapes are selected from Marlborough which is in the north of the South Island, NZ, the same region as Cloudy Bay. Based on the 2001 vintage which lost most of its fruit in a year and became grassy the second year, a claim of five years cellaring seems much....I'd limit it to no more than a year. Not 'explosive' but still a pleasant gooseberry aroma. There is a 'subtle herbaceousness' which distinguishes it from the Cloudy Bay. Some mineral and less roundness in the mouth and lack of depth in the finish that is the $12 difference. A very pleasant sipper which will go with any seafood. Vintages release April 30, 2005. The 2004 has a screwcap.
CLOUDY BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2004 (and 2002), Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #304469 $31.95 ($28.95)
Vintages says of the 2004: "The legend returns. This is the wine that put New Zealand on the map. It remains the country's most sought after wine. Score 5 stars (out of 5)." The Cloudy Bay website says: "The fruit was machine harvested during the cooler night and early morning temperatures and transported directly to the winery. The grapes were de-stemmed and transferred straight to tank presses. Free run and lightly pressed juice was cold settled for 48 hours then racked and inoculated with a neutral yeast strain. The fermentations were carried out in stainless steel tanks; after fermentation the wine remained in contact with yeast lees for about two months, prior to blending in July and subsequent bottling in September." My notes: The 2002 was laid down March, 2003 and has lost seventy percent of the original gooseberry or 'blue spruce' nose. The colour is a shade deeper than the 2004 being a light straw and ageing has introduced a roundness that fills the mouth with each pleasant sip. Finish is a very long and a smoothe gooseberry/melon. Yummy! The 2004 vintage has a screwcap so it would be interesting to see what happens in two years.... but I recommend no more than one year to retain the very appealing aromatic gooseberry nose. More spicy crispness on the tongue than the 2002 but not quite as much mellow roundness, otherwise very similar. Both are pleasant sippers or will go with any seafood, bruschetti, cream pastas (may be stretching it but try it and let me know!), oysters, spicy mussels, salmon pieces on greens, etc. Vintages release April 30, 2005.
Sunday, May 01, 2005
3 Reds: Australia, Chile
KILIKANOON ‘KILLERMANS RUN' SHIRAZ 2002, South Australia, 14.5%, #925453 $18.95
Robert Parker Jr. says: "It is a dense, full-throttle, big, chewy, peppery, black fruit-dominated Shiraz offering sweet tannin, an attractive plushness, and an up-front style designed for consumption over the next 2-4 years. Score - 90. Natalie says: "Another bruiser that kicks sand in the face of 90-pound weaklings. Humongous would be the technical term, I think. Big black fruit. Drink with members of your local motorcycle gang. Score: 90/100." Winestar says: "the 2002 ...blows socks off. Kevin Mitchell (winemaker) has found another gear with the 2002 which is not surprising given the superlative wines that have already emerged from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare.... The 2002 is a deep purple colour, the nose giving off aromas of spicy fruit and aniseed. The palate is a symphony of luscious fruit flavours of dark berries as well as cherry, chocolate and a hint of licorice, etc. My notes: This is an unfiltered wine but doesn't show any roughness. Not being 90-pounds but still a weakling I was not intimidated. There is big black fruit and pepper in the nose and a balanced flavour of berries and cedar. Enough fruit and tannins for cellaring two years - should have a mellow future. Pair with any beef, venison or other wild thing, duck even. Casual sipping is pleasant but the aftertaste has a cloying aspect so have with food or nibbles -the alcohol content may be a surprise. Vintages release April 30, 2005. Go for it!
PENMARA RESERVE SHIRAZ 2002, Barossa, Australia, 13.5%, #912782 $18.95
LCBO says: "Rich, concentrated shiraz with a ripe, vibrant, briary fruit bouquet … Elegant strawberry fruit palate perfectly in balance. Should age very well. Score 5 stars (out of 5). (Winestate, Special Edition 2004, Vol. 27 Issue 7)." Beppi states: "full, smooth and luscious, with notes of plum, chocolate, coffee and spice." The Penmara website says: "The wine is bright purple in colour, with the nose showing fresh aromas of ripe berry fruits, with a touch of spicy pepper and the sweet lift of oak. The palate has ripe fleshy fruit flavours, which are enriched by hints of chocolate and liquorice. ... and great complexity with the structure to last for another 3-5 years." My notes: Still features the 5 Families name as #565929@$13.15 (reviewed Mar 31, 05) adding "One Vision" to its label. Colour is a deep ruby with ripe black cherry/plum with cedar and some pepper. Medium-bodied bright loganberry flavour with some licorice in the follow through. Shorter on fruit than typical Aussie shiraz's A short cherry finish. An OK dry sipper but should be paired with any beef, red pasta or burgers. Laying down initially for two years should smoothe and improve blending of the light tannins.
SANTA RITA 'FLORESTA' CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2000, Maipo Valley, Chile, 13.5%, #680942 $25.95
Vintages notes: "From the premium range developed by winemaker Andrés Ilabaca comes this sensational Cabernet blend. Decanter magazine rated it 4 stars (out of 5) gushing with praise: '. Marvellous, huge silky flavour. Huge and splendid.' " Vintages release April 2, 2005. My notes: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 70% and Merlot 30% so the Cab is softened by soft merlot fruit - in theory anyway! In this case the fruit has disappeared leaving a leather/licorice nose with a dry tannic cabernet flavour and a long herbal, cigar box finish. The nose is soft enough not giving away the somewhat flat but well-balanced tannin and acid. Decanting and letting breathe 30 minutes improved the nose but, still, not a pleasant quaffer. Likely aged too long. Roast beef, beef stews, or spicy pastas would be suitable companions. Not 'sensational', not 'huge and splendid', not a value, not recommended.
Robert Parker Jr. says: "It is a dense, full-throttle, big, chewy, peppery, black fruit-dominated Shiraz offering sweet tannin, an attractive plushness, and an up-front style designed for consumption over the next 2-4 years. Score - 90. Natalie says: "Another bruiser that kicks sand in the face of 90-pound weaklings. Humongous would be the technical term, I think. Big black fruit. Drink with members of your local motorcycle gang. Score: 90/100." Winestar says: "the 2002 ...blows socks off. Kevin Mitchell (winemaker) has found another gear with the 2002 which is not surprising given the superlative wines that have already emerged from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare.... The 2002 is a deep purple colour, the nose giving off aromas of spicy fruit and aniseed. The palate is a symphony of luscious fruit flavours of dark berries as well as cherry, chocolate and a hint of licorice, etc. My notes: This is an unfiltered wine but doesn't show any roughness. Not being 90-pounds but still a weakling I was not intimidated. There is big black fruit and pepper in the nose and a balanced flavour of berries and cedar. Enough fruit and tannins for cellaring two years - should have a mellow future. Pair with any beef, venison or other wild thing, duck even. Casual sipping is pleasant but the aftertaste has a cloying aspect so have with food or nibbles -the alcohol content may be a surprise. Vintages release April 30, 2005. Go for it!
PENMARA RESERVE SHIRAZ 2002, Barossa, Australia, 13.5%, #912782 $18.95
LCBO says: "Rich, concentrated shiraz with a ripe, vibrant, briary fruit bouquet … Elegant strawberry fruit palate perfectly in balance. Should age very well. Score 5 stars (out of 5). (Winestate, Special Edition 2004, Vol. 27 Issue 7)." Beppi states: "full, smooth and luscious, with notes of plum, chocolate, coffee and spice." The Penmara website says: "The wine is bright purple in colour, with the nose showing fresh aromas of ripe berry fruits, with a touch of spicy pepper and the sweet lift of oak. The palate has ripe fleshy fruit flavours, which are enriched by hints of chocolate and liquorice. ... and great complexity with the structure to last for another 3-5 years." My notes: Still features the 5 Families name as #565929@$13.15 (reviewed Mar 31, 05) adding "One Vision" to its label. Colour is a deep ruby with ripe black cherry/plum with cedar and some pepper. Medium-bodied bright loganberry flavour with some licorice in the follow through. Shorter on fruit than typical Aussie shiraz's A short cherry finish. An OK dry sipper but should be paired with any beef, red pasta or burgers. Laying down initially for two years should smoothe and improve blending of the light tannins.
SANTA RITA 'FLORESTA' CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2000, Maipo Valley, Chile, 13.5%, #680942 $25.95
Vintages notes: "From the premium range developed by winemaker Andrés Ilabaca comes this sensational Cabernet blend. Decanter magazine rated it 4 stars (out of 5) gushing with praise: '. Marvellous, huge silky flavour. Huge and splendid.' " Vintages release April 2, 2005. My notes: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 70% and Merlot 30% so the Cab is softened by soft merlot fruit - in theory anyway! In this case the fruit has disappeared leaving a leather/licorice nose with a dry tannic cabernet flavour and a long herbal, cigar box finish. The nose is soft enough not giving away the somewhat flat but well-balanced tannin and acid. Decanting and letting breathe 30 minutes improved the nose but, still, not a pleasant quaffer. Likely aged too long. Roast beef, beef stews, or spicy pastas would be suitable companions. Not 'sensational', not 'huge and splendid', not a value, not recommended.
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