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| Getting Underway |
Is it time to take note of bottle prices? To attack the $B deficit the Provincial government has plans to expand LCBO Outlets... but before new Outlets, I'd expect a marginal(?) increase in the price of every average-to-best selling label on present shelf inventory. Monopolies are handy at times. Salut, Ww
THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, rosés and sparkles:
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| Channel Bound |
- Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre 2009, 92-2 -- V, Contra Costa County, California, #066084 $18.95
- (WOM) Tamarí ar Malbec 2007, 92-2 -- V, Argentina, #273425 $21.95
- Fabre Montmayou Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, 91a-2 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #261891 $14.95
- Quinta Da Nespereira Vineaticu 2008, (BC90) 91-2 -- V, Dao, Portugal, #272047 $18.95
- La Posta Cocina Tinto 2010, 90a-2 -- G, Mendoza, Argentina, #269860 $12.95
- (WOM) Les Dolia Laudun Côtes du Rhône 2009, 90-2 -- V, Chusclan, France, #271999 $18.95
- Errazuriz Single Vineyard Max Reserva Estates Carmenère 2009, (BC90) 90-2 -- V, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, #273300 $18.95
- Anakena ONA Pinot Noir 2010, 86 -- V, Leyda Valley, Chile, #269183 $19.95
- Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Docg 2009, 85 -- G, Chianti, Italy, #267260 $18.95
- Whitehaven Pinot Noir 2008, 82a -- G, Marlborough, NZ, #245696 $20.65*
- Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chenin Blanc 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 87-2 -- V, Jordan, Ontario, #627315 $17.95
- Ironstone Obsession Symphony 2010, 86 -- V, Napa County, California, #355784 $14.95
- Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011, 85 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #304469 $29.95
- Planalto Reserva Vinho Branco Seco 2010, (BC89) 84 -- V, Douro, Portugal, #586420 $14.95
- Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 83 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #214460 $17.95
- Yalumba ‘The Y Series’ Viognier 2011, 82 -- V, Angaston, South Australia, #624502 $15.95
- Gassier Sables d’Azur Rosé 2011, 88-2 -- V, Provence, France, #033621 $13.95
- Domaine J. Laurens les Graimenous Brut Crémant de Limoux 2009, 88-1 -- V, Limoux, France, #183608 $18.95
- Joseph Cattin Brut Rosé Crémant d'Alsace NV, 87 -- V, Alsace, France, #264572 $17.95
- Château des Charmes Brut Méthode Traditionnelle VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake NV, 85 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #224766 $22.95
- Jackson Triggs Entourage Silver Series Brut Méthode Classique 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 81 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #234161 $22.95
TASTINGS:
WINES OF THE MONTH for April 2012 - Both released by Vintages on March 31, 2012
(WOM) BODEGA TAMARÍ AR MALBEC 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% XD, #273425 $21.95 (Tasted April 3, 2012) CS
Rated 92 by Jay Miller (December 2010). The word tamarí means "do everything with passion" and ‘AR’ is the indigenous Huarpe word for soul. You'll find that this soulful Malbec is indeed crafted with passion. My notes: Label recommends decanting 30 minutes before serving - not required. A soothing scent of warmed chocolate tainted by blackberries. A swirl leaves a firm rim that sheds slow tears. A deep ruby with strong sippability from several merging factors: a velvet texture, a complex layering of dark fruit and winemaker’s craft, complementing acids and a delayed arrival of fine tannins. A slight flattening at the end. Sophisticated for its balance and depth and an ability to pair with a wide range of savoury cuisine. This is a red to sip and savour. I would think cellaring for several years is a possibility although drinking very well now. 92 (WOM) LES DOLIA LAUDUN CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2009, Chusclan, France, 14.0% XD, #271999 $18.95 (Tasted April 7, 2012) CS
Rated 90 by James Molesworth (August 31, 2011). My notes: Being a blend of 50% Grenache Noir, 50% Syrah this has a Grenache granite tone to the deep ruby of Syrah. There’s a whiff of black berry with some spice and the film sticks then recedes in slow tears from a fragmenting rim. Smooth with a bright acid lining mellowed by fine tannins and blackberry flavours. Flavours continue through a long finish ending with a dry fuzzy touch. A grilled beef tenderloin partner with a breaded cheesy French Onion Soup starter. Possibly could mellow some more if cellared several years but drinking at peak now. 90
ERRAZURIZ SINGLE VINEYARD MAX RESERVA ESTATES CARMENÈRE 2009. Aconcagua Valley, Chile, 14.5% XD, #273300 $18.95 (Tasted April 17, 2012) CS
Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012 and rated 91 by Kurtis Kolt (August 8, 2011). My notes: Not aerated: A deep red liquorice colour with a lacquer edge to a sharp aroma of red currant that delays the first sip - a cranberry/currant flavour wrapped in a deep, warm, ripeness softening the sip for a long finish ending dry with light woody touch. The film is thin and leaves a lacy rim to slowly recede partly as long tears and partly as fragments. Medium-bodied and stone dry as a sipper. Pairing with anything grilled and meaty would be appropriate. Cellaring another few years is a minimum, likely more. 90 Aerated: There's a slight muting of the sharpness to nose and flavour that's welcomed on first taste. Any further changes are minor if at all - but preferred. No change in rating. 90
JACKSON TRIGGS ENTOURAGE SILVER SERIES BRUT MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, NOTL, Ontario, 12.0% XD, #234161 $22.95 (Tasted April 15, 2012) CS
A Vintages product although this one, by Vincor International, was purchased at a J-T boutique at Metro Foods. My notes: An impressive burst of fine bubbles that continue to stream to the surface leaving a moussey rim. The first sip after the bristle of spritz is disappointing by comparison, a dull apple flavour showing slight yeast and ending with less flavour except for a subtle softness. Acid and spritz make this an interesting toasting beverage for a small group of guests - perhaps as an ’amuse bouche’. Alternatively go for an Crémant d’Alsace at the same price point. A boutique drink now. 81
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CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BRUT MÉTHODE TRADITIONELLE VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake NV, NOTL, Ontario, 12.0% D, #224766 $22.95 (Tasted April 4, 2012) CS
My notes: A General listing and a classic blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. A profusion of mid to large bubbles on first pour subsiding to a few streams. A crisp straw colour with an aroma of delicate apple, a soft fruitiness with a subtle tang. A strong spritz livens the palate with a burst of creamy flavour quickly settling to a quiet apple, a touch of sweet nicely balanced with acid. A sparkler for a festive crowd, a buffet quencher or a summer patio sipper. 85
CASTELLARE DI CASTELLINA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2009, Tuscany, Italy, 13.5% D, #267260 $18.95 (Tasted April 12, 2012) CS
A General listing. My notes: Not aerated: A garnet hued ruby almost see-through and a film that quickly fragments to a clear glass. Air thirty minutes for faint raspberry aromas touched with smoke. The first sip is silky with acid balanced by a light tannin both carrying into a long finish, lightly flavoured with smoky, more smoke than fruit, raspberry ending chalk dry. A companion for every meal Italian - meaty pizzas and tomato pastas. Has an interesting old world profile - cellaring several years may smooth making this a simple medium-bodied sipper. 85 Aerated: Nose has lessened and some silk of the first sip as well. The faint raspberry flavour has less fruit giving acid and tannin more prominence and increasing dryness of the finish while advancing the same ending. Ok as a medium-bodied quaffer if you like dry, light and old world - same pairing and a drink now. Aeration not recommended. 82
DOMAINE J. LAURENS LES GRAIMENOUS BRUT CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX 2009, Midi, France, 12.0% XD, #183608 $18.95 (Tasted April 18, 2012) CSReleased by Vintages on February 4, 2012. My notes: A crisp golden in the glass with continuous streams of fine bubbles leaving a few at the rim. Not quite the burst of suds on pulling the tight, dense cork, in fact, I did a lateral cut across the bulbous top then used a corkscrew to remove the remaining piece in the bottle. A slight aroma of yeast and apple and a flavour of toast, apple and tangerine with a bright acid accent building with each sip - hard not to quaff. A steady spritz refreshes through a long finish. Medium-bodied and extra dry this would be an interesting bubbly for toasting - or an introductory refresher before a formal dinner. An inconvenient cork makes serving difficult. 88
QUINTA DA NESPEREIRA VINEATICU 2008, Dao, Portugal, 14.0% XD, #272047 $18.95 (Tasted April 11, 2012) CS
Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012, rated 90 by Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast (August 1, 2011) and a winner of a Silver MUNDUS vini at Der Grosse Internationale Weinpreis 2011. My notes: A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Not aerated: There’s a charcoal hue to a deep ruby colour and a nose that doesn’t intrude - what’s there is an earthy red currant. The rim is smooth with slow tears seeping away until the film disappears. Full-bodied, not a trace of sweet, a reserved acid with elegant tannins layering rich blackberry flavours ending dry and retaining much of the flavour. A succulent sipper for those liking full and dry or to pair with grilled Barbarian rubbed T-bone or slices of Moroccan flank steak. Four years and counting ’til 2020. 91 Aerated: Tannins are more pronounced, acid is less dominant, a woody-ness that's more noticeable in the finish. Same rating. 91
PLANALTO RESERVA VINHO BRANCO SECO 2010, Douro, Portugal, 12.5% XD, #586420 $14.95 (Tasted April 1, 2012) CS
Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012. My notes: Produced from a blend of native grapes to accompany a variety of Portuguese recipes. Produced from a blend of native grapes to accompany a variety of Portuguese recipes. A greenish hue to a mid straw and a scent that takes time to develop of lemon zest kissed by a rose and a lacy film that recedes slowly into fragmented islands. Smooth, a mild tang and muted lime on melon flavours has some interest as a sipper although declining quickly to an appealing remnant while adding just a touch of dry mineral. A meal white to have with delicate seafood and tomato sauced rice dishes. Not enough to cellar - a drink now. 84
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ANAKENA ONA PINOT NOIR 2010, Leyda Valley, Chile, 13.5% XD, #269183 $19.95 (Tasted April 2, 2012) CS
A Vintages release on March 31, 2012 and a Gold Medal winner at the 2011 Sélections Mondiales des Vins Canada. Rated 89 by Josh Raynolds of International Wine Cellar (May/June 2011). My notes: Not aerated: A deep ruby with a few specks floating from the crumbly cork. A faint aroma of black cherry with a touch of spice and a film that quickly fragments as it recedes. Silky smooth with an acid lining that separates texture from flavours of woody cherry - fine tannins build on the palate. The finish ends dry and smooth with a reminder of fruit. Medium-bodied and extra dry I’ll pair with Mom’s Meatloaf where the red pepper and tender baked ground beef and pork should complement the flavour. A polite drink now. Cellaring may bring more harmony - I’d try four years. B50 C5 N11 F&F13 P2 T5 86 Aerated: Not appreciably changed.
JOSEPH CATTIN BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE NV, Alsace, France, 12.0% D, #264572 $17.95 (Tasted April 21, 2012) CSA Vintages release on March 31, 2012. My notes: A Gold Medal winner at the 2010 Concours des Vines d’Alsace. A cheery salmon colour, bright and filled with streams of fine bubbles. A clean nose with a scant mineral scent. The first sip brings a burst of spritz on the tongue and a delicate flavour of red cherries soften by apple and a pleasing tartness - freshness with a mineral finish. Save for a summer day on the patio or have with an eggs & bacon breakfast in an umbrella’s shade. As with another cork (Domaine J. Laurens Crémant de Limoux - above) I could not remove by hand -- and a sabre wasn’t handy. 87
LA POSTA COCINA TINTO 2010, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% D, #269860 $12.95 (Tasted April 20, 2012) CS
A General listing. My notes: A blend of 60% Malbec, 20% Syrah and 20% Bonarda and produced by the Trialto Wine Group. A dense purple hued ruby with an aroma of spicy berries and dark chocolate. Not aerated: The film holds firmly until the rim laces then slowly recedes. Ripe berries come first then an earthy seam shows with spice and fine tannins following quickly. Everything blends with fruit dropping slowly leaving mostly an earthy ending. A full-bodied sipper that would appeal to most - the dull, some would say ’dirty’, aftertaste didn‘t appeal to me. Pair with a pepper steak or Osso Buco. Cellaring for several years is likely. 89 Aerated: The film breaks into long slow tears and the first sip has a softer touch with the same balance of fruit and spice. Tannins show more distinctly coating the mouth and the finish ends somewhat cleaner. Hardly noticeable but I prefer aerating. 90
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CLOUDY BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% XD, #304469 $29.95 (Tasted April 9, 2012) CS
Released by Vintages on January 7, 2012. My notes: Rated 94 in June 2008 the 2005 vintage, priced at $39.95, set the high water mark for this NZ icon. The 2009, $29.95 set the low mark at 83 (October 23, 2010). I’m curious where this vintage will show. The nose has a floral edge to crushed ripened gooseberry very pleasing while sipping. The colour is a pale straw and the first sip offers a tangy muted gooseberry quickly softening to a dry tang on the palate. This ‘icon’ lacks the bracing complexity of previous vintages although still a pleasing sipper and was a suitable partner to Supperworks Chicken Breast in Filo. A drink now. 85 .
LAWSON'S DRY HILLS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% XD, #214460 $17.95 (Tasted April 9, 2012) CS
Released by Vintages on March 17, 2012 and rated 90 by MaryAnn Worobiec, (June 30, 2011). Lawson's Dry Hills is a certified sustainable winegrower. My notes: Rated 86 the 2009 vintage tasted in June of last year was an enjoyable ‘socializer for a patio crowd’. This vintage is a dollar more and has a crisp pale straw colour with a delicate tang to a mild aroma of fresh gooseberries. There’s some smoothness to a chalky first sip with as much mineral as fading gooseberry fruit that quickly shifts to the mineral component. Serve chilled to retain freshness and presence of the fruit - the tang and chalk will stay on its own. Quaffing brings a pleasant density to texture and fruit. A drink now. 83
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IRONSTONE OBSESSION SYMPHONY 2010, Napa County, California, 12.5% D, #355784 $14.95 (Tasted April 13, 2012) CS
. Released by Vintages on March 17, 2012 and made from the Symphony grape, a cross between Grenache Gris and Muscat of Alexandria. My notes: The 2004 ($8 US) was tasted in April 2006 and found to be ‘more of a summer sipper‘. The 2009 tasted in March last year was rated 89 and more interesting as a sipper being ‘well balanced and appealingly off-dry’. The 2010 is a light straw colour with an aroma of Royal Gala apple and leaves a lacy rim lazily receding down the glass. Full in the mouth and tangy balanced with a fresh sweetness making this an appealing sipper but tiring after awhile. A penetrating lime adds to the apple supporting a long clean finish. Went well with my tray of sushi sprinkled liberally with soy and would with a Chinese assortment. A drink now - keep chilled. 86
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GASSIER SABLES D'AZUR ROSÉ 2011, Provence, France, 12.5% D, #033621 $13.95 (Tasted April 16, 2012) CS
Released by Vintages on March 31, 2012. My notes: A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. For mid April this is a blistering hot day (25 deg. C) in southern Ontario and time to preview a summer sipper. La Provence produces rosés that satisfy most although the pedigree of this label is difficult to track. Salmon pink, this sips dry, a lightly tangy aromatic blend in which no grape is distinct. A pronounced floral sets off pleasurable tastes of apple and citrus. Medium-bodied, a soft texture and a moderate acid balances the mild natural sweetness. Poured at 15 C this needs to chill down to 8 - 12C for best sipping. Have with a bowl of berries, rasp- or straw- or grilled tilapia with rice. Likely could cellar for several years to give up some cosmetic blush. 88
CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED CHENIN BLANC 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, Jordan, Ontario, 11.5% D, #627315 $17.95 (Tasted April 18, 2012) CS
A Vintages release. My notes: First enjoyed at Solara Bistro with Parpadelle and Tiger Shrimp, Mushroom Soup and Risotto Fungilli all freshly prepared. The aroma is porcini mushrooms but with additional tang and the colour is a soft gold. A swirl forms a sold lacy rim that quickly falls clearing the glass. The first sip carries, surprisingly to me, the same mushroom flavour delicately accented by melon then going into a long finish ending chalk dry. By itself it’s an unusual sipper not without appeal but better paired with a green salad or a creamy Italian pasta. The mushroom tone quickly blends with many servings adding an earthy charm. Four years now and could cellar another four before fading. 87
YALUMBA ‘THE Y SERIES’ VIOGNIER 2011, Angaston, South Australia, 13.5% D, #624502 $15.95 (Tasted April 9, 2012) CS
. Released by Vintages on March 3, 2012. My notes: The Viognier grape originated from the Rhône and the Yalumba Viognier has consistently been good over several vintages (2004, 2006, 2008 tasted earlier). The colour is a mid straw and aromas, not the expected floral but an interesting nose on the vegetable side. A lacy rim quickly recedes unbroken until islands are formed. Nicely full in the mouth with silk and tang while lemon, green apple and lime (mineral) flavours take their time to show then end chalky and tart. Pick your tasters as this white doesn’t appeal to everyone - or pair with seafoods or Asian. Perhaps cellaring a few years will smooth some roughness? - don’t think so. 82
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FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.5% XD, #261891 $14.95 (Tasted April 14, 2012) CS
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| Supper Setting |
Released by Vintages on April 14, 2012 and winner of IWSC Trophy 2010 for quality. Rated 91 by Jay Miller (December 2010). My notes: Not aerated: Charcoal hued surface with purple edges and a nose of wet carbon and ripened black fruit lead to a mild first impression. The film sticks before sliding as slow tears. The first sip attacks the palate, lays a thick fuzz and an extra dry dull black currant. The finish is long starting hot, rich in texture and ending dry with muted fruit. Not enjoyed as a sipper however would think partnering with a herb-rubbed steak, pepper steak or braised lamb shank w/coriander, fennel and star anise would be great. Cellaring may mellow some roughness but the heat will stay - I suggest four years. 88 Aerated: Aeration takes much of the sting from sipping. The velvet fuzz is retained along with a stronger black currant flavour altho’ some of the currant edge is missing and the finish ends with less but cleaner fruit - a beauty of a sipper! Cellaring for several years may mellow the tannin and acids - the heat will stay. A drink now with same pairing (couldn't find the lamb so sub'd with beef --- excellent pairing!). 91CLINE ANCIENT VINES MOURVÈDRE 2009, Contra Costa County, California, 15.0% XD, #066084 $18.95 (Tasted April 23, 2012) CS
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Released on May 14, 2011 this is no longer listed by Vintages. My notes: Tasted last year just after release and rated 94 noting “visual, texture and flavour profile, is of a sedate men’s club complete with smoking jacket and Havana cigar” - ageing only a year we’ll see if my tasting holds true. Not aerated: A charcoal hued deep ruby with a delicate spice edged, scent of black- and blueberries. A swirl leaves a lacy rim quickly followed by slow legs to eventually clear the bowl. A full flavoured black fruit evenly matched by fine tannins and a bright acid that gets approval as a sipper. Flavour and texture change quickly through revolving stages of acid, tannin and fresh fruit ending smooth and dry. The finish builds growing a fine fuzz and warmth with each sip. Have with anything beefy and grilled from pepperoni pizza to prime rib. No roughness - just a mourvèdre sobriety. 92 Aerated: A more moderate scent while retaining a full blue- and blackberry flavour, very fresh, textured by satin and a moderate acid - no longer ‘exciting‘. The finish goes through the same stages ending warm and dry. Cellaring longer not likely to show improvement. 90 WHITEHAVEN PINOT NOIR 2008, Marlborough, NZ, 13.5% D, #245696 $20.65* (Tasted April 30, 2012) CS
A General listing and *reduced from $22.65 until April 29, 2012. My notes: A see through charred hued ruby with a musty (before aerating) scent of berries. A swirl leaves a lacy rimmed film with long legs sticking to the glass. The first sip leaves a silky layer with tangy flavours of light liquorice and faint strawberry that fade slowly then end dry with mineral and spicy berry. Interesting with a vegetal aspect as a sipper - to me, not that appealing. OK paired with grilled lamb chops on leeks and mashed turnip/potato - perhaps tuna or sword fish steak would be better? Not for cellaring. 82
