StrictlyTasting

January 2012 Whites+: 17 Tasted of 17

2012-01-16T12:06:00.018-05:00

Peterborough Locks - Long ago

A collection of whites+ from under our Christmas tree. Click on Reds for others.

Cheers, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by whites, rosés, sparkles and other:

Ciù Ciù La Merlettaie Pecorino Offida 2009, 90-2 -- V, Marche, Italy, #245670 $16.95
Murphy-Goode ‘The Fumé’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 90-2 -- V, Santa Rosa, California, #721092 $18.95
Springfield Estate Wild Yeast Chardonnay 2006, 90-1 -- V, Robertson, South Africa, #694646 $24.95
Angel’s Gate Riesling 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 88-1 -- V, Beamsville, Ontario, #160523 $13.95
Amani Chardonnay 2009, 88-1 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #687442 $17.95
Domaine de Vedilhan Viognier 2008, 87-1 -- G, Narbonne, France, #162081 $10.70
Angel’s Gate Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #001818 $12.95
EOS Estate Central Coast Chardonnay 2008, 83 -- V, Paso Robles, California, #955914 $18.95
Running Duck Fairtrade Organic Chardonnay 2010, 80 -- V, Western Cape, South Africa, #149856 $12.95

Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #172643 $14.95

Bottega Petalo’ Il Vino dell’Amore Moscato, 91-3 -- G, Montebelluna, Italy, #588780 $13.05
'De Chanceny' Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut NV, 88-1 -- G, Loire, France, #211466 $16.70*
Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve ‘Paul deLane’ NV, 88-1 -- G, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, France, #214981 $17.60
Foss Marai Extra Dry Prosecco Vino Spumante, 86 -- V, Valdobbiadene, Italy, #729392 $18.95
Codorniu Brut Clasico Sparkling NV, 83 -- G, Penedès, Spain, #215814 $12.75

Jose Maria da Fonseca Alambre Moscatel 2000, 96-3 -- V, Setúbal, Portugal, #357996 $13.95
Dr. Hermann Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese 2006, 93-2 -- V, Mosel, Germany, #181917 $21.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

DOMAINE DE VEDILHAN VIOGNIER 2008, Narbonne, France, 13.5% XD, #162081 $10.70 (Tasted January 19, 2012) CS

A General listing produced by Etablissements Paul Boutinot. My notes: A discontinued product. Without aerating: There’s a pale golden glint to the colour and a slight musk aroma to an apple lime nose - no floral. The film sticks to the glass then slowly recedes evenly leaving only small remnants. The first sip has a strong tang to silky textured, medium-bodied, round flavours of honey and lime, light and fading quickly to a chalky finish - a slight musk still present. An OK sipper that goes down with a pucker - better with buffet table servings. Also good paired with grilled trout with parsnip, broccoli and potato. A drink now. 86 With Aerating: A clean but light citrus nose and a pleasing tang to brighten the first sip adding to soft chalky textures with flavours of white grapefruit touched by lime that slowly fade leaving only tang and chalk. An interesting sipper - better as a House fish white. 87
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RUNNING DUCK FAIRTRADE ORGANIC CHARDONNAY 2010, Western Cape, South Africa, 13.5% XD, #149856 $12.95 (Tasted January 11, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on January 7, 2012 and a Stellar Winery product. My notes: The Vintages Panel tasted this in February 2011. The colour is a mid yellow, bright in the glass and has a lees and pear aroma. The film forms a solid rim that slowly fragments dropping slow tears. Aerating helps reduce a sharp acid component and the first sip is medium-bodied with a round texture and salty pear carrying the lees on the lips for a long finish. An acquired taste as a sipper - needs a cheesy macaroni entrée or fried chicken fingers to build flavours. Cellaring could emphasize the salty component rather than the marginal fruit. 80

CIÙ CIÙ LA MERLETTAIE PECORINO OFFIDA 2009, Marche, Italy, 13.5% D, #245670 $16.95 (Tasted January 14, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on August 6, 2011. Rated 90 by Antonio Galloni (August 2010). My notes: If quality was gauged by the tightness of a cork this would rate 100. A bright golden hue with a whiff of Meyer lemon for a nose. A swirl brings a rim that slides evenly down the glass. The first sip is a full lemon (Meyer) with equal tang and a silky smoothness followed by a light tangy chalk as an ending. A moderately long finish changing throughout. I enjoyed sipping for its freshness, however more of a dependable house white to pair with seafood, fish or crustaceans. Keep a year or two likely not to change except to add more silk. 90

ANGEL'S GATE WINERY SELECT VQA GIFT PACK (4x375mL), Beamsville, Ontario, #189969 $34.95 CS
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Overall I was impressed with the wines in this package when tasted December 3, 2010 - same mix and same vintages as this year with average 750mL price of $17.50. If my calculations are correct that's approx $8 for packaging. I also wonder if leftover packages have been langishing in an LCBO warehouse since last year? The following includes prices for 750mL bottles currently on the LCBO website. Click on Angel's Gate Reds for remaining tasting notes. Conclusion: I'm no longer impressed.

ANGEL'S GATE RIESLING 2008 VQA Beamsville Bench, 11.0% D, #160523 $13.95   (Tasted January 10, 2012) CS

A Vintages release. My notes: Rated 88 in 2010. A light golden colour with a noticeable aroma of citrus, almond and peach - swirl for more - nicely tangy. The film fragments quickly from the rim leaving only small islands in its wake. A bright first sip, drying with a hint of sweet, a light silk and full of interesting flavours, some lime, some peach, some orange zest, a touch of petrol all leaving the palate refreshed for the next sip - ends with some chalk and a discernible touch of oil. Could cellar a few years or more. Pair with any lightly seasoned seafood. 88

ANGEL'S GATE UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 13.0% D, #001818 $12.95 (Tasted January 9, 2012) CS

A General listing. My notes: Rated 92 on December 3rd, 2010. A light golden meets the eye and subtle citrus nose too light to discern specifically. A swirl gives a fragmented rim that recedes quickly shedding a few small tears. The first sip is smooth, tart, and has light flavours of white grapefruit, almond and a touch of sweetness coming away. The finish has a nice length continuing the flavours, a softness and an even tartness then becomes as dry as a light chalk. An interesting sipper with a clean chardonnay that builds character with each sip. Serve off chill - around 12oC. Cellaring the year has lost distinct fruit and nose - now off-peak. May be too light paired with lemon fettuccine and chicken parmigiana but I‘ll try (didn't work). 84

SPRINGFIELD ESTATE WILD YEAST CHARDONNAY 2006, Robertson, South Africa, 14.0% D, #694646 $24.95 (Tasted January 2, 2012) CS
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A Vintages release on September 3, 2011.   My notes: A mid golden with subtle butterscotch and banana aroma, slight nip as well. A swirl leaves a lacy rim widening its grasp until tiny tears slowly fallow gravity - only fragments behind. Lemon, lime and salty caramel are the first on the buds, full flavoured for sure. A silky texture has noticeable warmth then ends soft, tangy still with a salt presence. A delicious sipper showing a strong South African terroir that may restrict its appeal. I`m enjoying it and will pair it with a Lucy Waverman tourtière recipe but using equal parts pork and turkey and a cayenne kick. OK but missing some berry fruit for this recipe. Go for a Beaujolais... Now 5 years aged this could cellar another 5 - but drinking well now. 90

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AMANI CHARDONNAY 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.0% XD, #687442 $17.95 (Tasted January 2, 2012) CS
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A Vintages release on November 26, 2011. My notes:Now this has some politeness although still quite bright in the mouth. A soft mid gold colour and aromas needing time to develop into a subtle lemon and almond - around 12oC. The rim sticks immediately flowing long legs then quickly fragmenting into small islands. A touch of butterscotch, lemon, almond, a solid fresh tang followed by a warm dryness. Finish is short to middling although the warmth continues. I’ll try this with the tourtière comparing it with the Springfield (#694646 ) Wild Yeast Chardonnay. By itself not up to it with the tourtière...! Add some cranberry or loganberry and its OK. Was great with grilled Rainbow trout. Cellaring several years is likely - go yearly. 88
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JOSE MARIA DA FONSECA ALAMBRE MOSCATEL 2000, Setúbal, Portugal, 17.5% M, #357996 $13.95 (Retasted January 16, 2012) CS
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My notes: The Alambre 2000 was tasted after its release on January 8, 2005 and my notes then showed enthusiasm for this style. However it's no longer available and this bottle is the last in my cellar. The tasting of July 2008 (95) said “... a rich, full-bodied dessert wine ... not as sweet as ice wine but rich in raisiny butterscotch and fig flavours at a very low price....” and in June 2010 (92) “... distinct aromas of meadow flowers and caramel, spicy sweet... ” This is now an exotic vivid peachy orange in the glass with not so prominent a nose at first then regaining orange zest and caramel aromas when slightly off chill - amazing! The flavours and textures demand 100% attention: subtly sweet blended with orange and orange zest for a soft bite. The finish is exceedingly long as the fruit slowly declines leaving some sweetness and orange to enjoy - sipping is at foremost. Serve chilled after a fresh fruit dessert, not too acidic, or creamy cappuccino. This will cellar forever and always be a beautiful sipper. 96

TAWSE 'SKETCHES OF NIAGARA' ROSÉ 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.0% XD, #172643 $14.95   (Tasted January 4, 2012) CS

My notes: Last tasted on May 2, 2011 and rated 87. A blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for full flavours, textures and a medium body. Still with a peachy pink colour, delightfully vivid in the glass and an aroma of crushed red cherries with some spice. A sip shows bright acid with white cherry juice front and centre in a extra dry medley. Xdry through a long finish to a not-quite sour cherry ending. The tart builds making this a refreshing summer sipper - I‘d add one ice cube and a maraschino to retain chill and offset tang. Match with a Bento box of mixed tempura shrimp and vegetables or a Chinese buffet. If cellared drink soon. 85

EOS ESTATE CENTRAL COAST CHARDONNAY 2008, Paso Robles, California, 13.5% D, #955914 $18.95   (Tasted January 7, 2012) CS

A Vintages release - no date given. My notes: The winery is now owned by Foley Family Wines. I’m amazed at the prices for EOS wine flights in their tasting room (pictured) although there’s no product notes on the website to stimulate interest. There’s a touch of green to a light golden colour and a firm rim sheds slow tears as it recedes without fragmenting. A herbaceous nose has a fresh yellow bean aroma with a mild tang. Serve well chilled and watch for minor changes as the wine warms… taste has a bland profile, no butter nor caramel (unoaked?), with a grassy crushed grapefruit seed flavour mildly acidic. Silky, clean and well balanced, dry. For me, not a sipper but acceptable with battered halibut and chips with malt vinegar and ketchup - likely would contribute more with grilled tilapia or cod. A drink now. 83

DR. HERMANN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2006, Mosel, Germany, 9.0% M, #181917 $21.95 (Tasted January 27, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on November 26, 2011 and rated 92 by Bruce Sanderson www.winespectator.com (Dec 15, 2008). My notes: The rating used by the LCBO is ‘part of history’ and whether it applies three years later will be interesting. A lime green tint to a mid golden and aromas of green pea and lime - serve chilled. A swirl layers a fine film with a rim that quickly laces then slides unbroken down the glass. Sweet as it should be. Acids are balanced nicely with delicate lemon-lime pear and with a softness that makes this appealing as a sole sipper. From the crest of flavours at first sip to a long fruity ending this is true to style and grape. Lasting well since December 2008 and cellaring for several more years may bring out even more luscious textures. 93

MURPHY-GOODE ‘THE FUMÉ’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Santa Rosa, California, 13.5% XD, #721092 $18.95 (Tasted January 22, 2012) CS

Release by Vintages on January 7, 2012 and rated 90 by Robert Parker (February 2011). My notes: Not aerated: There’s a green tint to a mid-gold colour and the nose is a delicate citrus kiwi. A swirl leaves a lacy rim that recedes evenly leaving islands and shedding just a few slow tears. Tart and bright, a slight roundness and citrus kiwi flavours give appeal to the first sip. The finish sees the flavours of the first sip slowly decline ending with chalk dry citrus. More of a buffet sipper or pair with fresh oysters, crab cakes, buttered lobster pieces or grilled salmon/trout. Cellaring may bring out more smoothness. 87 Aerated: Tart on the first sip but without the sharpness of before. This puts the focus on the citrus and kiwi flavours and the smoothness. The matching of acid with fruit is amenable to solo sipping. The finish starts bright declining to the fruit then slowly shows some chalk, smoothness to the cheeks and mild fruit - now ‘unctuous‘. Would pair well with a buffet selection - including fresh oysters - or with grilled whitefish and crustaceans. 90

FOSS MARAI EXTRA DRY PROSECCO VINO SPUMANTE NV, Valdobbiadene, Italy, 11.5% D, #729392 $18.95 (Tasted January 1, 2012) CS
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A Vintages release on December 10, 2011. My notes: Tasted several times - Aug 2008, Feb 2007, May 2006 - enjoyed each time. August 2008 rating was an 88 with aromas of apple pie and butterscotch, spritzy with a long ‘unctuous’ finish. Now a dollar more. A pale golden colour and a burst of multisized bubbles then a continuous stream.   Exceptionally floral on first pour then settling to a subtle yeasty floral. A sip brings a fresh tartness with apple piecrust trailing off quickly to an oily mouthfeel, grassy then mineral flavours. The shortness of the finish is disappointing compared with the unctuous start - altho' continuous sipping helps. Have with salty crackers, bruschetta, or party sandwiches or just sip. 86

BOTTEGA PETALO IL VINO DELL’AMORE MOSCATO NV, Montebelluna, Italy, 6.5%, S, #588780   $13.05 (Tasted January 22, 2012) CS

A General listing. My notes: Tasted on April 7, 2007 and November 24, 2006 with pleasing results - “a full floral nose, a soft yeast, apple juice and orange blossoms… etc.” “A sweetness through the low alcohol”. Today's tasting: There is a touch of floral to a honey and Royal Gala nose. On pouring there’s a burst of effervescence followed by streams of fine to medium sized bubbles quickly subsiding to the rim. Beautifully balanced sweetness, a gentle acid to waken the palate, and apple flavour fills the first sip then declining slowly to a delectable long finish. Serve chilled in a tulip glass retaining aromas to accompany the complementing flavours. Its succulence and lo alcohol makes this a pleasing quaffer. Went well with Clarkson Fish & Chips (a good size halibut thinly battered). Previous releases cellared well as this should. 91

CODORNIU BRUT CLASICO SPARKLING NV, Penedès, Spain, 11.5% D, #215814 $12.75   (Tasted January 9, 2012) CS

A General listing. My notes: A traditional cava blend of Xarello, Macabeo and Paralleda. No colour and minimal nose - perhaps a delicate yeast. The burst of bubbles is dramatic and leads to a light mousse followed by a continuous spritz - no ring at the rim tho’. Extra dry on the first sip and every one following then finishing quickly with a steely mouthfeel. This paired nicely with chicken parmigiana cutting any leftover frying oils. A drink now - not that interesting except for the price. 83

CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE RÉSERVE 'PAUL DELANE' NV, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, France, 12.0% D, #214981 $17.60 (Tasted tbd) CS

A General listing. My notes: A blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay and Aligoté. A burst of bubbles of all sizes on pouring settling quickly to steady streams some remaining briefly at the rim. The colour is mid golden and the aroma is a pleasing lees and apple, somewhat subtle. Each sip brings a burst of softness that contrasts with a sour apple tartness. A delicate Pink Lady apple flavour ends with a chalky note - tart all the way through. Serve before dinner as a refresher or ‘amuse bouche‘. Serve during an afternoon to get the get-together going or serve with breakfast sausage or bacon on toast or waffles on the morning after. 88

'DE CHANCENY' CRÉMANT DE LOIRE ROSÉ BRUT NV, St Cyr en Bourg, France, 12.5% D, #211466   $16.70* (Tasted January 6, 2012) CS

A General listing. My notes: *Reduced a dollar until Jan 1, 2012. 100% Cabernet Franc. This has a bright peachy colour and pours with a burst of bubbles first effervescing to a mousseux profusion dispersing quickly to steady streams. The nose has a slight pie dough and subtle mineral aroma. A heavy but soft spritz accompanies flavours of drying tart apple pie quickly fading to a mineral dryness. Delightful as a sipper due to its acid bite and lively spritz. Except for its neutral flavour it paired well with buttered blueberry pancakes, light Maple syrup and Maple sausage pieces. Or serve well chilled at a baby or bridal shower. Cellaring for a short while should be okay. 88

January 2012 Reds: 12 Tasted of 13

2012-01-16T04:23:00.017-05:00

Van Island Snowfall '96

A collection of Reds from under our Christmas tree. For Whites+ click here.

Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP:

Domaine Santa Duc Le Blovac Rasteau 2009, 93-3 -- V, Gigondas, Rhône, France, #234641 $14.90
Koyle Alto Colchagua Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 91-3 -- V, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #256073 $15.95
Angel’s Gate Cabernet Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 88-1 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #620096 $12.95
Valpantena Torre del Falasco Ripasso Valpolicella 2009, 87-1 -- V, Verona, Italy, #642421 $16.95
McManis Family Vineyards Zinfandel 2010, 87* -- V, Ripon, California, #256735 $18.95
Ellena Dolcetto d‘Alba 2009, 87 -- WOL, Piedmont, Italy, Case#476340 $22.95
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2010, Swartland, South Africa, 86-1 -- V, #595280 $14.95
The Hedonist Shiraz 2008, 86 -- V, South Australia, #090191 $23.95
Monte Zovo Sa’ Solin Ripasso Valpolicella 2008, 85 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #650713 $17.95
Trivento Amado Sur Malbec/Bonarda/Syrah 2009, 84 -- V, Mendoza, Argentina, #037036 $15.00
Angel’s Gate Merlot 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #107722 $13.95
Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009, 79 -- G, Burgundy, France, #162073 $20.70
Cascina Ballarin Tre Ciabot Barolo 2006, r-v -- V, Piedmont, Italy, #213058 $37.80

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value, WOL - WineOnLine)

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TASTINGS:
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LOUIS JADOT BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2009, Burgundy, France, 13.0% XD, #162073 $20.70 (Tasted January 16, 2012) CS

A General listing. My notes: Before aerating: A clear see-through ruby and no apparent aroma. Has some silk, a light tannin to compliment subtle acid. The finish comes quickly ending with a light chalky dryness following flavours of delicate red cherries and light oak. Not much interest as a sipper and light-bodied combined with being lightly flavoured it would be difficult to pair. Also, not much there to cellar. Drink now or avoid. 79   After aerating: I preferred aerating, however, there is minimal change and no change in rating. 79

KOYLE ALTO COLCHAGUA RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #256073 $15.95 (Tasted January 23, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on January 7, 2012. Rated 90 by Jay Miller (December 2010). My notes: No Aeration: A deep purple tinged ruby showing a thick film with a solid rim and long slow legs. The nose is a concentration of earthy forest floor and spicy rich black cherry juice. Fine tannins and a moderate acid frame flavours of smoky blackberries. Sipping, based on a balance of sensual aspects, is appealing but could be short lived due to some dullness at a dry end. Full-bodied to have with prime rib, beef tenderloin and T-bones - the beef family of entrées. Cellaring for another three years could bring out more subtleties. 89   Aeration: Possibly less ‘forest floor’ while retaining the smoky fruit, a cherry/berry in the nose and a smoother balance of textures, acids and flavours. There’s a tad increase in tannin presence, fruitier starting a long finish and leading to the same dry end. Overall slightly tamer and more appealing as a sipper and meal complement. Excellent paired with a spicy Chinese pork tenderloin, brussels and basmati rice. 91

MCMANIS FAMILY VINEYARDS ZINFANDEL 2010, Ripon, California, 13.5% D, #256735 $18.95 (Tasted January 12, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on January 7, 2012. My notes: I’ll try first aerating then not. Without aerating: Sparse on nose for a Californian Zinfandel but with a clean and clear ruby colour. A swirl leaves a rim that rapidly drops fast legs then disappears. There’s a definite sweetness to the first sip and a blend of blackberries and straw- for fruit, a touch of liquorice and a complementing acid and tannic dryness then a woody dryness. On the mild side to be sipped then taken to a table of grilled beef or chorizo pieces in a tomato pasta. Not for cellaring - a drink now. 84 With aerating: More smoothness from the first sip which was a better balance with the acid, blackberry fruit and tannins. My preference is to not aerate this Zinfandel. 87

DOMAINE SANTA DUC LES BLOVAC RASTEAU 2009, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 15.0% XD, #234641 $14.90 (Tasted January 25, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on August 20, 2011. My notes: I had a previous Gigondas which was delicious so I decided to go for it. Not aerated: This is a purple ruby colour, quite dense in the glass and a slosh brings long moderately slow legs from a smooth, firm rim. The first sip has blackberry, cedar, tar and a spicy, process driven richness of textures and flavours. Airing for twenty minutes gives a sweet fruit touch to the palate carried into a long finish slowly subsiding, smooth and dry. Pair with savoury or spicy pot roast, a lamb shank with red wine gravy or a grilled sirloin with Barbarian steak rub. ‘Smoky and raw’ for some, 'challenging' for others, broad and deep with interesting complexities. Cellar up to ten years or enjoy now. 90 Aerated: The mild nose has evaporated to a faint blackberry and cedar. Softer with the first sip, nicely blended and more distinct black fruit and light tar - delectable. The same richness of textures now with a balanced, subdued spice, full-bodied. My preference is for aerating however, some may enjoy the raw nature of before aerating. The finish twins before except 'no more raw'. 93

PORCUPINE RIDGE SYRAH 2010, Swartland, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #595280 $14.95 (Tasted January 17, 2012) CS

A Vintages release on January 7, 2012 produced by the Boekenhoutskloof Winery. My notes: Not aerated: The film sticks to the glass then gradually recedes through slow stubby tears. The colour is a dense ruby. There’s an objectionable brine tang on the nose I now refer to as the 'terroir' of some entry level South African reds and whites. The aroma has a sour plum, not unpleasant for some, but very evident with a texture that‘s smoother than silk, like a plush chamois or velveteen and flavours of mild overripe black cherries. The flavours fade slowly leaving smooth salt as a finish. A unique sipper. Pair with a chorizo and tomato pasta dish or an asparagus, leek and bacon bits soup. 80 Aerated: Half of the brine has gone from the nose, likely would also with an hour airing. Also the first sip retains the chamois smoothness but the salty tang balances with the acid and gives more prominence to a soft ripe cherry flavour - a nudge of liquorice shows. Finishes with a oily touch to the lips and a bland ripe cherry. To see if flavour or salt wins cellaring is an option - five years minimum? Aerating is a must if serving now. Pair with Denninger’s Chili Con Carne, loaded hamburgers or a rubbed T-bone. 86

ANGEL'S GATE WINERY SELECT VQA GIFT PACK (4x375mL), Beamsville, Ontario, #189969 $34.95 CS
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Overall I was impressed with the wines in this package when tasted December 3, 2010 - same mix and same vintages as this year with average 750mL price of $17.50. If my calculations are correct that's approx $8 for packaging. I also wonder if leftover packages have been langishing in an LCBO warehouse since last year? The following includes prices for 750mL bottles currently on the LCBO website. For Angel's Gate Whites+ click here. Conclusion: I'm no longer impressed.

ANGEL'S GATE MERLOT 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 13.0% D, #107722 $13.95 (Tasted January 11, 2012)   CS

A General listing. My notes: Rated 89 in 2010. Before aerating: The colour is a light ruby and aroma is a thin berry. The film sticks and slowly sheds small tears. A strong tang hits the roof while fine tannins line the mouth which is left with a faint impression of berries. The finish is long, dry with some brambly fruit retained. Surprising at first sip for its tang but with a narrow taste and depth to want a refill. Have with veal parmigiana or chicken breast with steamed veggies. Not cellarable - a drink now. 81   After aerating: The tang of the initial sip is tolerable balancing better with the soft texture, fine tannins and thin flavours. Not cellarable - an uninteresting drink now. 82

ANGEL'S GATE CABERNET MERLOT 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 13.0% D #620096 $12.95 (Tasted January 10, 2012) CS

A General listing. My notes:   Rated 89 in 2010. Aerating with Vinturi added some polish to lasting aromas or freshly crushed red currants, black cherries and some raspberries. The colour is a vivid purple tinged ruby, very clean in the glass. Light-bodied, silky smooth, a good bite and pleasing fine tannins that build, all round out full flavours that track the nose. If an Aussie red is preferred this is not it. Went well with leftover prime rib sliced thin, pan fried veggies with basmati rice and soy sauce. Perhaps it’s a terroir that adds a whiff of ‘lacquer’ making this unique. A long finish dries the mouth until ending on a mineral note. Cellaring well so far and should for another few years. 88

ELLENA DOLCETTO D’ALBA 2009, Piedmont, Italy, 13.5% XD, Case#476340 $22.95 (Tasted January 5, 2012)

My notes: Received from WineOnLine to fulfill a sambadays Global Wines Gift purchase. The LCBO product number shown is for a case of six 750mL bottles. A mild aroma of freshly crushed cherries and berries with a subtle tang. A deep black cherry colour and a swirl leaves a film with a solid rim falling as slow tears. The first sip is bone dry, silky and a combination of mint, berry and sweet tinged red currant. There`s a slight liquorice touch to a moderately long finish - tannins accumulate to a furry level. On the light side of medium-bodied with mild flavours, matched acids and tannins makes this a pleasing sipper - also good with a pork and turkey tourtière. A drink now. 87.

CASCINA BALLARIN TRE CIABÒT BAROLO 2006, Piedmont, Italy, 14.0% XD, #213058 $37.80 (Tasted tbd) CS

Released by Vintages on September 17, 2011 and called ‘a powerful 100% Nebbiolo’ by the Vintages Panel (July 2010). My notes:

THE HEDONIST SHIRAZ 2008, McLaren Vale, Australia, 14.0% XD, #090191 $23.95 (Tasted January 8, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on November 12, 2011 and rated 92 by Harvey Steiman (June 2010). My notes: A wine from the Walter Clappis (winemaker) Wine Co. Out of the bottle this has strong cherry cough syrup aroma and a murky cherry colour. Nose is much tamer after using a Vinturi and airing twenty minutes. A solid rim is quick to form columns of tears flowing slowly down the glass. The first sip, stings the mouth then dries it with fine tannins laying a flat cherry berry peppery coating tinged by a woody, slight tar flavour. An OK sipper if you’re a Cutty Sark devotée - full-bodied, smooth and warm. Have with a savoury beef bourguignon, T-bone steak or prime rib. Likely past peak or perhaps a style from a former era. 86

VALPANTENA TORRE DEL FALASCO RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA 2009, Verona, Italy, 13.5% D, #642421 $16.95 (Tasted January 13, 2012) CS

Released by Vintages on December 17, 2011. My notes: Without Aerating: A slight aroma of red currants without a tart edge and a colour of deep ruby. Leaves a solid rim until slowly shedding short slow tears from the rim… lots of them. Silky first sip with a follow through of tart red raspberries, nice tannins to complement a medium-bodied sipper. Leaning toward extra dry with no sugars showing in this tasting. The finish is moderate ending with a mild fruit. Have with a pepperoni pizza or beefy grilled hamburgers. 85 With aerating: Immediately noticeable on the sip is the pleasing softness balanced by a mild acid and tannins. A light flavour of woody berries soft on the palate and fading slowly to an end that has remnants of fresh fruit. A polite sipper that would pair nicely with veal parmigiana dish, ham steak or went well with a mixed pizza. 87

TRIVENTO AMADO SUR MALBEC/BONARDA/SYRAH 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 14.0% XD, #037036 $15.00 (Tasted January 22, 2012) CS

Release by Vintages on January 7, 2012. Rated 90 by James Molesworth   (June 15, 2011) My notes: A blend of 73% Malbec, 15% Bonarda and 12% Syrah. Not aerated: A carbon cast dark ruby showing a sticky film shedding the odd slow tear. The first sip is extra dry, initially smooth then covering the mouth with a furry layer. Medium-bodied, lightly floral with a prominent acid supporting earthy edged red berry flavours with Bonarda having a higher influence. The finish is long ending with dry, firm tannin and woody berry. An Italian or Spanish styled red - not a sipper, more of a tomato pasta pairing. Was OK with a three cheese and ground pork lasagna. 84    Aerated: Still furry but with finer tannins, balanced, and with a less furry finish. Merlot flavours add softness giving some appeal, not much, as a sipper - very dry with less prominent acids. Cellaring for several years is possible without improvement expected. 84

MONTE ZOVO SA' SOLIN RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA 2008, Veneto, Italy, 14.5% XD, #650713 $17.95 (Tasted January 4, 2012) CS

A Vintages release on December 10, 2011. My notes: An old favourite until the price (+$2) and alcohol level went up.. The 2003 vintage was tasted in June 2006 - no rating but I cellared a case at the time which improved nicely over several years. The 2008 has a colour of deep black cherry and the aroma is spicy raspberry with slight earthy bramble. A swirl leaves a lacy rim that fragments slowly forming islands and slow legs. The first sip is full-bodied, smooth accompanied by a strong nip then liquorice and berry flavours ending quickly with tar, tannins, faint berries and heat. For me, too much process as a sipper. Xdry with enough tang to match grilled beef, T-bones or back ribs well seasoned with Barberian's Steak Seasoning - did not go with salty crackers. Cellaring for several years should mellow some rough edges - OK now if you like nippy. 85

Wine Aeration - I’m a believer!

2012-01-12T14:15:00.009-05:00

Now what do I do?

I believe everyone has heard that a red wine should be aerated, either letting it breathe or decanting an hour before guests arrive or shaking the decanter to speed up the process. I recall going to restaurant in Hamilton several years ago. Dimly lit and our foursome were the only patrons. The wine list included a wine named ’Chateauneuf du Pape-like‘. I kid you not! A homemade wine. The server brought the wine bottle to the table and asked if one of us would like to taste. Of course! But first opening and decanting was a full service at this restaurant.

I was more than surprised - in fact I could feel myself stifle a giggle. The server proceeded to vigorously shake the decanter the palm of his hand pressed firmly on top to avoid spillage. ‘These fresh wines need airing for full nose and flavour’ he said.

Needless to say the wine was spongy, had weak popsicle fruit, mild acid and no tannins - similar to what you’d expect from freshly pressed grapes strained through cheesecloth.

I relived that experience when ‘researching’ this topic. Not the wine part but the 'aerator'. It seems everyone has ‘invented’ a version of a wine aerator. Daniel Bernoulli would turn over seeing the implementations based on one of his principles of fluid dynamics. All claim their product provides ‘the proper air-wine contact’. Some insist on the correct angle of bottle on pouring. Some insist their product has never fallen from the bottle on pouring. Some insist multiple aerators are needed for whites - and for scotches, brandies and so on.

What most do not do is examine the logistics of using their device in a social setting. Where do I put the aerator dripping wet with red wine between guest pourings? What do my guests do as they anxiously await their turn to be ‘aerated’. Some products have thimble size 'reservoirs' such you simply can’t speed up the pouring process. Almost as an after thought there are ’accessories’. A ’stand’, a drip holder, a second crystal decanter or just leave the aerator in the bottle letting each guest have the wonderful experience of ’aerating’ their own. But you’re having two (or more) reds and whites this evening. Now we need a wiping cloth and basin so the BH’s damask tablecloth, the patterned silk sofa with pastel cushions and the recently purchased white deep piled carpet aren’t stained.

The one recommendation from this discussion is, before you invest in an aerator, choose for style and convenience. Whether they swirl, gurgle, slosh or fizz they all essentially provide the same function. Play through a real life scenario of serving wine to guests in a setting of your choice. Use as a pattern what you do now without an aerator and then again imagining having an aerator(s) of your choosing. The following are some of those from a search of the Amazon website with prices excl. tax and shipping.

Allure Aerating Decante $29.99
Metrokane Rabbity Super-Aerating Decanter System $54.00
Metrokane Houdini Decanter with Wine Shower Funnel and Sediment Strainer $36.00
Vivid Wine Decanter & Vinturi Red Wine Aerator Gift Set $59.99
Vinturi Essential Wine Aerator $34.41
Soiree bottle-top Wine Decanter & Aerator $19.99
Nicholas VinOair Wine Aerator $14.77
Trudeau Aroma Aerating Pourer $24.45
True Fabrications Wine Aerating Pour Spout $7.83

Also there are countless demonstrations on YouTube - search using 'wine aerators'.

... and YES! Having used one recently the nose and flavour of most wines definitely improve with aeration - but some do not, for instance McManis Zin.

Cheers, Ww

The Taste of South Africa

2012-01-07T17:46:00.006-05:00

In October 2011 I blogged some thoughts on The Taste of History, ie. the consequence of, over time, migrating vines and winemaking to various regions of the world. South Africa has its own history starting in the middle of the 17th century with Dutch colonization at the southernmost tip now Cape Town. Known for its antiseptic properties wine was used to combat scurvy, to treat water supplies and other medicinal uses. The rest is a historical digression of wine capitalizing on its social and commercial value.

In the early 1990’s winery owners suffered under pressures of phylloxera and the Anglo-Boer War until supported in 1918 by the Cooperative Wine Growers Association of South Africa, in Afrikaan ‘KWV’. KWV found new markets while setting prices and quotas regardless of wine quality. The reputation of South African wines ‘died on the vine‘ until KWV dominance as a regulator lessened through to the 70s. But legislation intended to focus on wine quality was put on hold until the 90s as the Country went through years of sanctions and civil strife. A ‘Wine of Origin’ scheme introduced in 1973 continues to recognize winegrowing regions, districts and wards. The names of specific vineyards started to appear on labels in 2005(1) .

A first step was distinguishing between ’estate’ and ’branded’ wines quickly followed by scrutinizing label claims of origin and bottle content. Identifying soil types and the suitability of vine varieties in the geologically diverse areas of South Africa was complicated by the influence of two Oceans and several mountain chains. ‘Wine of Origin’ mapping progressed from Constantia at the tip near Cape Town to Cape Point, Somerset West, Helderberg (Raithby), Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Tygerberg (Durbanville), Paarl and expanding inland & eastward to Elgin, Breedekloof, Worcester, Robertson, Calitzdorp and north to Darling, Swartland, Tulbagh and Olifants River. These are just a few of the districts in these regions. South African wines tasted in the December blogs originated from the districts/towns underlined.

Looking at the recent tasting results (Reds, Whites+) South African wines are equal to any the LCBO is importing (in my price bracket) - but they have their own style. While retaining close to a European style South African wines strongly reflect the extreme terroirs and climates and range from subtle and salty, bold & hot and flat & furry. The reds are not Australian. The Sauvignon Blancs are not of New Zealand nor France. The Chardonnays are not Californian nor Burgundian. The Chenin Blancs are full and savoury having a wide range. A projection to Semillon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz etc., varieties not tasted, would likely show the same results. All are uniquely South African... and not a bandaid in the lot!

Change continues at a great pace increasing sustainable and organic viticulture and awakening to New World preferences. There have been substantial increase in premium plantings and as vineyards mature and private holdings dedicate their effort to quality South Africa, based on what I see in only 22 tastings, is becoming a player in the world market.

My opinion,
Ww

The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson Jancis Robinson, 6th Edition
Wikipedia
South Africa regions

sambadays Gift-box Experiences - updated Jan 5th

2012-01-03T12:00:00.047-05:00

... First posted December 27th, 2011
I never knew it existed! ...until Christmas morning opening my gifts. A package the size of a CD/DVD but containing a variety of ‘Gifts’ packaged as activities involving the recipient in an exciting adventure. Everything from Balloon Rides to Night Outs, from Spa treatments to Skydiving... and much more. To be given at Christmas, on a special occasion or as Corporate awards sambadays sources to partners the elements needed as part of each package. Their website describes the numerous, as well as the newest, ‘Gift-box experiences’ available.

Categories of Gift-boxes:

Adventure

Explore
Action and Adventure

Life and Culture

Live and Learn

Golf
Gourmet

Shared Plates
Table for Two
Chef at Home

Body and Soul

Rejuvenate
Pamper and Wellness

Wine

Wine and Tour
Global Wine

Getaway

Gourmet Getaway

As a Christmas gift I received the Global Wine package and the WineOnLine Marketing Company is sambadays’ fulfilment partner.

Global Wine

‘Activation’ is the first of a 3 step process and simply means registering the fourteen digit number, found on the small card that comes with the Gift-box, on sambadays website.

This package contains a choice of 10 wine styles (see photo) from which 6 bottles can be ordered from the partner. Included in the package are food recipes “to help accentuate your wine experience”, two Riedel glasses, a Vinturi aerator, tasting notes and Shipping costs.
To help me decide what to order there is a card describing each style. For example, ‘Smooth and Silky Reds’ are said to be wines having “a firm yet distinctively soft texture, smooth, mellow, with no rough edges. Tannins and acids are well married and folded into the wine. When the wine is bigger, more opulent, the word ’velvety’ is often used. As you taste, feel the wine in your muoth, roll it around, noting not just flavor but texture as well. Soft & silky, young pinot noirs, mellow perfumed reds with lots of red fruit flavors. Riojas, Chiantis and some creamy Malbecs will fall into this experience.”

The next step is up to me. I must:

Activate
Choose a Style
Order my Global Wines

…but first I’ll need to talk to the Partner to find out what's available.

My first choice is ‘Aromatic Whites’ with the expectation of receiving wines with “intense aromas and flavours that come from their particular grape variety, whether they are off dry or dry. … Gewurztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Gris and Riesling…”

… and in case this doesn’t pan out

My backup choice is ’Intense and Bold Reds’ with the expectation of receiving wines from “warmer wine producing regions such as Australia, Southern Italy, Spain, Portugal and California. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel are typical varieties”.

I believe I’m ready to call WineOnLine. Stay tuned…I'll let you know how I make out.

…cont’d December 28th, 2011
A short conversation with the WineOnLine rep arranged for delivery of 6 bottles to my address in Mississauga.

However there are some restrictions imposed by Ontario’s monopoly, the LCBO. From a consumer perspective the following are completely arbitrary only enforced by an arrogant disrespect for the wine buying public and burdensome bureaucratic oversight.

An option on the WineOnLine website labelled Mix-a-Six provides for mixing 6 wines if and only if they are from the same participating Ontario winery. Several wineries however have limited selections.
If imported wines are requested all six must be same label and may be limited to certain wines imported in 6 bottle cases.

A minor issue is a Vinturi aerator for white wines is not available. An aerator from another manufacturer can be substituted. Basically, the elegant descriptions of ‘10 wine styles’ are well intentioned but not pertinent in Ontario.

… cont’d January 3rd, 2012
A call from WineOnLine puts shipment within the week via Canada Post. For a wine selection a 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba was recommended which I accepted after a review of the tasting notes and heritage.

Unpacked

... cont'd January 5th, 2012
.


Gift as received

A second call from WineOnLine scheduled a personal rather than a Canada Post delivery for today. The Gift is shown as received then as unpacked. Imagine. A real person at the door and offering me the choice of Riedel 'O' or Riedel Pinot Noir Stemware wine glasses.

Not included, and not a concern, were “food recipes to help accentuate your wine experience”.

The Ellana Dolcetto d'Alba has been added to my tastings for January 2012 Wines.

Overall the contents are top quality and, separately priced, would be $230+ incl. shipping and taxes. I appreciated the options of glassware, wines - which are not available at Outlets - and the attention from WOL considering having to comply with arbitrary LCBO restrictions. The only suggestion I have is for sambadays to clarify their wine packages to reflect Ontario laws. Anyhoo, it's a terrific Gift approach!

Now to taste the wine!

Cheers, Ww

2011 2nd Half Summary - Whites+

2012-01-01T16:20:00.001-05:00

November View '11

The Whites+, including Rosés and Sparklings tasted from July 1st to the end of 2011, are listed below. Shown in bracket is the month of tasting where the original notes can be found.

For a list of Reds click on REDS. For an introduction and interpretation of the numbers click on INTRO.

Whites:

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Stratus Riesling 2008 VQA Vinemount Ridge, 93-2 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #126433 $35.20 (Oct)
Heartland Stickleback White 2009, 92-3 -- V, Kent Town, South Australia, #186387 $10.95 (Aug)
Cave Spring ‘Dolomite’ Riesling 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 92-3 -- O, Jordan, Ontario, #Winery $17.15 (Oct)
William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2009, 92-2 -- G, Burgundy, France, #276436 $20.75 (Aug)
Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Stratus Riesling 2009 VQA Vinemount Ridge, 92-1 -- O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $35.20 (Dec)
Pedro Escudero ‘Fuente Elvira’ Verdejo 2009, 91-3 -- V, Rueda, Spain, #218313 $13.95 (Aug)
Legends Estate Reserve ‘Lizak Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 91-2 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $19.15 (Jul)
William Fèvre Chile Gran Cuvée Chardonnay 2009, 91-2 -- V, Santiago, Chile, #045146 $16.95 (Sep)
Concha Y Toro ‘Trio’ Chardonnay Pinot Grigio Pinot Blanc Reserva 2009, 90-2 -- V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #433938 $12.95 (Oct)
Emiliana Natura Un-oaked Chardonnay 2011, 90-2 -- V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #061895 $15.95 (Nov)
Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2008, 90-2 -- V, Swartland, South Africa, #225458 $16.95 (Dec)
Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2009, 90-2 -- V, Franschhoek, South Africa, #231357 $17.95 (Dec)
Craggy Range ‘Te Muna Road Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 90-1 -- V, Martinborough, NZ, #225706 $24.95 (Sep)
Iona Chardonnay 2009, 90-1 -- V, Elgin, South Africa, #236026 $24.95 (Dec)
Charles Baker Ivan Vineyard Stratus Riesling 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 90 -- O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $35.20 (Dec)
Anakena ‘Lilén Single Vineyard’ Viognier 2010, 90-2 -- V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #045138 $13.95 (Aug)
Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 89-3 -- V, Darling, South Africa, #235895 $14.95 (Oct)
Carmen Reserva Chardonnay 2010, 89-2 -- G, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #235663 $10.95 (Nov)
Pondview Estate Gewurztraminer/Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89-2 -- V, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #234625 $14.20 (Aug)
Skuttlebutt Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2008, 89-2 -- G, Margaret River, Australia, #157867 $14.95 (Sep)
St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 89-1 -- V, Napa Valley, California, #339663 $18.95 (Oct)
Giesen 'The Brothers' Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 89-1 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #247213 $19.95 (Oct)
Legends Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89-1 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $20.15 (Jul)
Heimberger les Origines Vieilles Vignes Gewurztraminer 2009, 89-1 -- V, Beblenheim, Alsace, #223933 $17.95 (Sep)
the Foreign Affair Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $30.15 (Jul)
Tawse Chardonnay 'Estate Vineyards' 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $29.95 (Jul)
Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2009, 88-1 -- V, Somerset West, South Africa, #739995 $14.95 (Dec)
Château des Charmes 'St. David's Bench Vineyard' Chardonnay 2007 VQA St. David's Bench, 88-1 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #430991 $16.50 (Oct)
Bonterra Chardonnay 2009, 88-1 -- V, Mendocino County, USA, #342436 $18.95 (Sep)
Paul Dolan Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 88-1 -- V, Mendocino, California, #046334 $19.95 (Sep)
Alvento 'Vio' Viognier 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 88 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $25.95 (Jul)
Château des Charmes Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 87-1 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #081653 $13.95 (Sep)
Elgin Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 87-1 -- V, Elgin, South Africa, #207167 $14.95 (Dec)
Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2009, 87 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #717090 $17.55 (Dec)
Tawse Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $19.95 (Jul)
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Robert’s Block Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87 -- V, St. Catharines, Ontario, #231415 $20.95 (Jul)
Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling 2008 VQA Short Hills Bench, 86-1 -- O, St. Catharines, Ontario, #Winery $14.95 (Jul)
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Riesling Gewurztraminer 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 86 -- O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $17.15 (Jul)
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 86 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #919514 $17.95 (Dec)
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 85 -- V, Jordan, Ontario, #681247 $16.95 (Oct)
Cono Sur Viognier 2010, 84 -- G, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #064287 $10.00 (Nov)
Megalomaniac Homegrown ‘Cellar 4379' Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84 -- G, Vineland, Ontario, #183061 $12.95 (Oct)
Diva Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 84 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #179143 $14.95 (Oct)
Mission Hill ‘Five Vineyards’ Pinot Blanc 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, 84 -- G, BC, Canada, #145094 $14.95 (Nov)
Alvento ‘Vio’ Viognier 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $23.95 (Jul)
Bodega Francis Lurton Pinot Gris 2010, UCO Valley, 83 -- G, Argentina, #556746 $11.95 (Dec)
Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2009, 83 -- V, Languedoc, France, #712638 $15.95
Gold Ring Chardonnay 2009, 83*see note -- V, Mendocino County, California, #239442 $16.95 (Sep)
Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2011, 82 -- G, Western Cape, South Africa, #527465 $8.95 (Dec)
Château des Charmes Sur Lie Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 82 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #056754 $10.95 (Sep)
Yalumba 'Y Series' Riesling 2009, 82 -- G, Eden Valley, Australia, #212753 $14.95 (Sep)
Napa Ridge Chardonnay 2009, 82 -- V, Napa, California, #213678 $18.95 (Sep)
Alvento ‘Vio’ Viognier 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $19.95 (Jul)
Chehalem Reserve Pinot Gris 2007, 82 -- V, Willamette Valley, Oregon, #180372 $22.95 (Nov)
Château des Charmes Aligote 2009 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 81 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #284950 $13.55 (Sep)
Hahn Estates Chardonnay Monterey 2008, 81 -- G, Soledad, California, #234393 $16.95 (Nov)
Ken Forrester Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2009, 81 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #231282 $17.95 (Dec)
Megalomaniac ‘Edra’s Vineyard’ Narcissist Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 81 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #067587 $17.95 (Oct)
Cono Sur Riesling 2011, 80 -- G, Central Valley, Chile, #156653 $9.95 (Nov)
Cono Sur Chardonnay Organic 2011, 80 -- G, San Antonio Valley, Chile, #230565 $11.95 (Nov)
Strewn Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 80 -- O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $12.15 (Jul)
Mission Hill ‘Five Vineyards’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, 80 -- G, BC, Canada, #145086 $14.95 (Nov)
Willm Réserve Riesling 2009, 80 -- V, Alsace, France, #011452 $15.95 (Aug)
the Foreign Affair Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 80 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $25.15 (Jul)
Donini Collezione Rubicone Trebbiano Chardonnay 2009, 80 -- G, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, #160317 (1000mL) $9.45 (Jul)
Tawse Sauvignon Blanc 'Laundry Vineyard' 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 80 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $24.95 (Jul)
the Foreign Affair Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 80 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $25.15 (Jul)
Tawse Sauvignon Blanc 2010 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 80 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $24.94 (Jul)
Blu Giovello Pinot Grigio 2010, 79 -- G, Venezie, Italy, #580183 $12.95 (Sep)
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 79 -- V, Adelaide Hills, Australia, #225441 $19.95 (Jul)
[yellow tail]* Pinot Grigio NV, 78 -- G, Australia, #068254 $9.95 (Aug)
Stratus Sauvignon Blanc 2008 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 78 -- O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $29.20 (Jul)
[yellow tail]* Chardonnay 2010, 77 -- G, Australia, #627802 $10.95 (Aug)
Southbrook Organic Connect White Vidal 2010 VQA Niagara on the Lake, 75 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #249078 $14.95 (Oct)

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Rosés:

Delas Frères Saint Esprit Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2010, 90-2 -- V, Tournon-sur-Rhône, France, #224964 $12.95 (Sep)
Domaine Lafage Parfum de Vignes Rosé 2010, 90-2 -- V, Roussillon, France, #167528 $13.95 (Oct)
Hinterbrook Winery Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, 90-2 -- O, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #Winery $16.20 (Jul)
Château de Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé 2010, 89-1 -- V, Tavel, France, #729947 $17.95 (Nov)
The Wolftrap Rosé 2010, 88-1 -- V, Franschoek, South Africa, #169409 $12.95 (Nov)
Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé 2010, 88-1 -- V, Aix-en-Provence, France, #118653 $13.95 (Nov)
Yalumba 'Y Series' Sangiovese Rosé 2010, 88-1 -- G, Eden Valley, South Australia, #234419 $14.95 (Sep)
Château la Tour de l’Évêque Rosé 2010, 88-1 -- V, Provence, France, #319392 $18.95 (Oct)
Emiliana Adobe Reserva Rosé Syrah 2010, 87-1 -- V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #229690 $11.95 (Aug)
Southbrook Organic Connect Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara on the Lake, 86 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #168492 $18.95 (Oct)
Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Rosé Malbec-Shiraz 2010, 85 -- G, Mendoza, Argentina, #170126 $8.20 (Nov)
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 85 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #172643 $14.95 (Jul)

Sparkling:

Jackson-Triggs Entourage Silver Series Brut Méthode Classique 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 92-2 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #234161 $22.95 (Jul)
Tenuta S. Anna Extra Dry Prosecco NV, 90-2 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #169128 $15.95 (Oct)
Pierrel les Oressences Brut Champagne NV, 91 -- V, Epernay, France, #167502 $42.95 (Jul)
Brisebarre Brut Vouvray NV, 89-1 -- V, Loire, France, #226241 $18.95 (Nov)
Mausberg Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant d’Alsace NV, 88-1 -- V, Beblenheim, France, #171785 $17.95 (Nov)
Bellenda San Fermo Brut Prosecco Superiore 2010, 88-1 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #082347 $17.95 (Aug)
Antech ‘Expression’ Brut Crémant de Limoux 2008, 88-1 -- V, Limoux, France, #068239 $17.95 (Nov)
Epsilon Sparkling Wine NV, 86-1 -- V, Treviso, Italy, #221929 $13.95 (Aug)
Bellussi Belcanto Extra Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore NV, 86 -- V, Valdobbiadene, Italy, #053215 $17.95 (Dec)
Cave Spring Blanc de Blanc Brut NV VQA Niagara Escarpment, 85 -- G, Jordan, Ontario, #213983 $29.95 (Oct)
Vineland Estate Winery Reserve Brut 2008 VQA Ontario, 84 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #039495 $19.95 (Oct)
Domaine Allimant-Laugner Brut Crémant d’Alsace NV, 83 -- V, Orschwiller, France, #030593 $17.95 (Dec)
Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Sparkling Shiraz 2008, 82 -- V, Coonawara, Australia, #053330 $24.95 (Dec)

Other:

Fleur du Cape Noble Late Harvest 2008, 93-1 -- V, Coastal Region, South Africa, #173781 (375 mL) $20.95 (Dec)

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2011 2nd Half Summary - Reds

2012-01-01T15:22:00.005-05:00

November View '11

The Reds tasted from July 1st to the end of 2011 are listed below. Shown in bracket is the month of tasting where the original notes can be found.

For a list of Whites+ which includes Rosés and Sparklings click on WHITES+ . For an introduction and calculation of some related numbers click on INTRO.

Reds:

Post House Blueish Black 2009, 94-3 -- G, Raithby, South Africa, #226639 $14.30 (Dec)
Delas ‘Les Reinages’ Gigondas 2007, 94-2 -- V, Tournon-sur-Rhône, France, #222604 $29.95 (Aug)
Stalking Horse Shiraz ‘McLaren Vale’ 2008, 93-3 -- V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #251215 $17.95 (Dec)
Kunde Family Estate ‘Sonoma Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, 93-3 -- V, Kenwood, California, #226977 $19.95 (Sep)
Gigondas La Cave l’Intense Gigondas 2007, 93-2 -- V, Rhône, France, #216382 $26.95 (Jul)
Diva Malbec-Merlot 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 92-3 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #179135 $13.95* (Oct)
Kunde Family Estate ‘Sonoma Valley’ Zinfandel 2007, 92-3 -- V, Kenwood, California, #965921 $16.95 (Sep)
Lealtanza Reserva Seleccion Rioja 2004, 92-3 -- V, Rioja, Spain, #208223 $17.95 (Jul)
Thelema Shiraz 2006, 92-2 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #146431 $19.95 (Nov)
Majella The Musician Cabernet Shiraz 2009, 92-2 -- V, Coonawarra, Australia, #142018 $19.95 (Nov)
Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Carignane 2009, 92-2 -- V, Sonoma, California, #032177 $19.95 (Oct)
Cono Sur Reserva Syrah 2008, 91-3 -- G, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #221820 $12.95 (Nov)
Hickinbotham Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, 91-2 -- V, South Australia, #159632 $15.95 (Oct)
Hungerford Hill Fishcage Shiraz 2009, 91-2 -- V, New South Wales, Australia, #077958 $15.95 (Nov)
Chehalem 3 Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008, 91-1 -- V, Willamette Valley, Oregon, #949909 $28.95 (Nov)
Domaine Duseigneur Antarès Lirac 2007, 91-2 -- V, Lirac, France, #213082 $19.95 (Sep)
Alvento 'Elige' 2007 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 91-2 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #226019 $19.95 (Jul)
Alvento 'Sondra' Merlot Cabernet Franc 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, 91-2 -- V, Ontario, #207332 $23.95 (Jul)
Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir 2009, 91-2 -- V, Rutherford, California, #130138 $26.95 (Jul)
Vina la Rosa ‘La Capitana’ Carmènere 2009, 90-2 -- V, Cachapoal Valley, Chile, #169896 $13.95 (Jul)
L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2008, Mexico, 90-2 -- V, Mexico, #983742 $11.95 (Aug)
Anakena ‘Single Vineyard’ Carmenère 2008, 90-2 -- V, Rapel Valley, Chile, #059519 $13.95 (Aug)
Chateau Camplazens la Garrigue 2007, 90-2 -- V, Armissan, France, #195008 $14.35 (Aug)
Legends Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 90-2 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $18.15 (Jul)
Canepa Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 89-2 -- V, Maipo Valley, Chile, #412031 $13.95 (Aug)
Trio Reseva Merlot/Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 89-2 -- V, Santiago, Chile, #433920 $14.95 (Dec)
Yalumba 'Y Series' Shiraz/Viognier 2009, 89-2 -- G, Eden Valley, Australia, #624494 $14.95 (Sep)
Porcupine Ridge Syrah/Viognier 2010, 89-2 -- V, Coastal Region, South Africa, #079442 $16.95 (Dec)
Hahn Winery Monterey Pinot Noir 2008, 89-2 -- G, Soledad, California, #226555 $18.95 (Nov)
The Winery of Good Hope Black Rock Red 2007, 90-2 -- V, Somerset West, South Africa, #068502 $18.95 (Dec)
Thelema Mountain Red 2007, 89-2 -- G, South Africa, #222570 $11.95 (Dec)
[Veedha] Means Life Douro Red 2008, 89-2 -- V, Gaia, Portugal, #255851 $12.95 (Dec)
Prelius Meremma Toscana Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 89-1 -- V, Tuscany, Italy, #224022 $17.95 (Nov)
Post House Penny Black 2008, 89-1 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #148619 $19.95 (Dec)
Louis Bernard Gigondas 2008, 89-1 -- V, Rhône, France, #222596 $19.95 (Oct)
the Foreign Affair Temptress 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 89 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $45.20 (Jul)
L.A. Cetto ‘Valle de Guadalupe’ Zinfandel 2008, 88-2 -- V, Baja, Mexico, #405605 $10.95 (Jul)
J.P. Chenet Premier de Cuvée Merlot Cabernet 2009, 88-2 -- G, Landiras, France, #621995 $11.95 (Oct)
Georges Vigouroux Pigmentum Malbec 2008, 88-2 -- G, Cahors, France, D 13.5%, #255182 $11.95* (Nov)
Stoney Ridge Estate Winery ‘Warren Classic’ Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 88-2 -- G, Vineland, Ontario, #156125 $14.95 (Oct)
Mission Hill ‘Five Vineyards’ Cabernet Merlot 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, 88-1 -- G, BC, Canada, #145102 $16.45 (Nov)
Wente Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, 88-1 -- V, Livermore, California, #301507 $16.95 (Sep)
Tenuta Sant’ Antonio Monti Garbi Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008, 88-1 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #029850 $17.95 (Aug)
Château la Grolet Côtes de Bourg 2009, 88-1 -- V, Bordeaux, France, #126615 $17.95 (Sep)
Schild Estate ‘Premium Wines’ Shiraz 2007, 88 -- V, Barossa, Australia, #066555 $27.95 (Aug)
Stratus Red 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 88 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #131037 $44.20 (Jul)
Amity Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2007, 87 -- G, Amity, Oregon, #124594 $20.95 (Nov)
Sarah Powell Windridge Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, 87 -- VOL, McMinnville, Oregon, #076422 *$29.00 (reduced from $39.00) (Nov)
the Foreign Affair Dream 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 87 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $29.15 (Jul)
Durbanville Hills Shiraz 2009, 86-1 -- G, Durbanville, South Africa, #022269 $11.95 (Dec)
J.P. Chenet ‘Limited Release' Pinot Noir 2010, 86-1 -- G, Landiras, France, #142406 $11.95 (Oct)
Errazuriz Estate Pinot Noir 2009, 86-1 -- G, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #226696 $13.95 (Oct)
Château de LaFaurie-Monbadon Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2006, 86 -- G, Gironde, France, #140012 $15.00 (Oct)
Vina Leyda ‘las Brisas Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009, 86 -- V, Leyda Valley, Chile, #209908 $16.95 (Aug)
Parés Baltà Mas Elena 2007, 86 -- V, Penedès, Spain, #687236 $17.95 (Aug)
Malivoire Gamay 2009 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 86 -- V, Beamsville, Ontario, #591313 $17.95 (Aug)
Emiliana Winemaker’s Selection ‘la Quebrada’ Syrah 2009, 86 -- V, Casablanca, Chile, #212407 $18.95 (Aug)
Liberty School Zinfandel 2008, 86 -- V, Paso Robles, California, #041095 $18.95 (Nov)
Bonterra Zinfandel 2009, 86 -- V, Mendocino County, USA, #530139 $19.95 (Sep)
Compagnia di Volpaia Citto 2008, 85-1 -- V, Tuscany, Italy, #134817 $11.70 (Jul)
Peachy Canyon Petite Sirah 2007, 85 -- V, Paso Robles, California, #239483 $19.95 (Sep)
Anakena ‘Single Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009, 84 -- V, Leyda Valley, Chile, #208439 $13.95 (Aug)
Banfi Centine 2008, 84 -- V, Tuscany, Italy, #947440 $16.95 (Sep)
Goats Do Roam ‘The Goatfather’ 2009, 83 -- V, Paarl, South Africa, #011072 $14.95 (Dec)
Boschendal 1685 Shiraz 2009, 83 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #096511 $18.95 (Dec)
Napa Ridge ‘Napa Valley’ Petite Sirah 2007, 83 -- V, Napa, California, #213686 $19.95 (Sep)
Frogpond Farm Organic Gamay Noir 2009 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 83 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #245613 $15.00 (Aug)
Bogle Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 83 -- V, Graton, California, #904565 $17.95 (Aug)
Tawse Cabernet Franc 'Laundry Vineyard' 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 83 -- O, Vineland, Ontario, #Winery $31.95 (Jul)
Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 82 -- G, Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina, #163949 $8.00 (Nov)
Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Malbec 2010, 82 -- G, Mendoza, Argentina, #028803 $8.20 (Nov)
Obikwa Shiraz 2010, 82 -- G, Western Cape, South Africa, #527499 $8.95 (Dec)
Flat Roof Manor Merlot 2009, 82 -- G, South Africa, #129874 $10.95 (Dec)
Sonop Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 82 -- V, Western Cape, South Africa, #606160 $13.95 (Dec)
Alvento 'Aria' Nebbiolo 2006 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #167874 $21.35 (Jul)
Konzelmann ‘Spaetburgunder’ Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 82 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #200584 $12.95 (Sep)
Slent Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2010, 81 -- G, Paarl, South Africa, #226688 $9.95 (Dec)
Château des Charmes 'Old Vines' Pinot Noir 2007 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, 81(Cellar) -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #056754 $10.95 (Sep)
Aldo Marenco Pirun 2008, 81 -- V, Piedmont, Italy, #161729 $17.95 (Sep)
Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, 81 -- V, Mendocino County, USA, #342428 $19.95 (Sep)
Château Pindefleurs ‘Saint-Émilion Grand Cru’ 2007, 80 -- V, Bordeaux, France, #102764 $20.00 (Aug)
Rose Hill ‘Private Edition’ Cabernet Merlot 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 79 -- G, Markham, Ontario, #146779 $13.05 (Oct)
Megalomaniac Homegrown ‘Cellar 4379’ 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 78 -- G, Vineland, Ontario, #260364 $16.95 (Oct)
Legends Reserve Malbec 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 78 -- O, Beamsville, Ontario, #Winery $19.15 (Jul)
Southbrook Organic Connect Red 2008 VQA Niagara on the Lake, 76 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #249565 $14.95 (Oct)
Masi Modello Rosso Delle Venezie 2010, 72 -- G, Veneto, Italy, #533026 $11.95 (Sep)

Beaujolais Nouveau:

Georges DuBoeuf Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau 2011, 84 -- V, Beaujolais, France, #932780 $14.95 (Nov)
Georges DuBoeuf Gamay Nouveau 2011, 82 -- G, Burgundy, France, #891846 $8.95 (Nov)
Primeur Syrah 2011, 81 -- G, Pays d’Oc, France, 12.5% D, #899948 $9.95 (Nov)
Cantina Tollo Giocale Novello Rosso Terre de Chietti 2011, 81 -- G, Abruzzo, Italy, #271759 $8.95 (Nov)
Primeur Catalan Syrah-Merlot 2011, 80 -- G, Pays d’Oc, France, #220533 $9.95 (Nov)
Cantina di Negrar Novello Del Veneto 2011, 80 -- G, Negrar, Italy, #899955 $9.95 (Nov)

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2011 2nd Half Summary - Intro

2012-01-01T14:59:00.005-05:00

November Colours '11

This Intro looks at two groups of wines during the period. The first group are those rated 85+, ie. enjoyable in every sensual respect - colour, nose flavour & finish as well as non sensual factors, their cellaring potential and the level of artificiality (typicity). The second group are wines rated below 85 or those being less than enjoyable, ie. simple wines to being flawed.

An average price for these groups are calculated which could be a rationale for future purchases. However this is mute since my interest is as much in sampling different styles from different wine regions and searching for the best Value within a budget below $25 per.

For the complete list of wines click on REDS or WHITES+

Note: Ratings in this blog are based on the Wine Advocate Rating system summarized in the Side Panel. A 'Value' assigned for a wine is described in previous blogs details of which are also given in the Side Panel. Needless to say 'Value' wines are less likely to be available however the #nnnnnn link can be used to check LCBO inventory.

The following is an interpretation of my investment in wines from local wineries and the LCBO for the period from July 1st 'til end of 2011.

Tastings for 192 wines were blogged: 74 whites, 86 reds, 6 Nouveau, 12 rosés, 13 sparklings and one Other. The reds and whites came from ten countries. Canada, or more specifically Niagara since our local monopoly doesn't stock other Province releases to any great extent, has the highest number with 52 wines purchased, 19 reds and 33 whites. The US (22,15/7), France (15,11/4) and Chile (16,8/8) came next with six other countries making up the rest.Two South African whites planned for December have been deferred until the New Year.
During this period France had the higher percentage of wines, 12 of 15, rated 85+. Niagara had 27 (10 red, 17 white) of 52 in the 85+ range.

Narrowing the view to the 159 reds(86) and whites(73), I look at their average prices imported versus local, the total numbers as well as the number of Value wines, whites and reds:

The average price for 108 imported wines: for 41 whites it was $15.45 and for 67 reds, $16.44
The average price for 52 Niagara (includes BC) wines: for 33 whites it was $20.70 and for 19 reds it was $21.06
The average price for 75 imported wines rated 85+: for 24 whites it was $17.05 and for 51 reds, $17.70
The average price for 27 Niagara wines rated 85+: for 17 whites it was $22.51 and for 10 reds it was $24.40

Looking at the level of enjoyment for a given price, or as indicated by Value:

Of the 86 reds 47 were considered good Value - 6 were from Niagara.
Of the 74 whites 29 were considered good Value - 9 were from Niagara.

Most of the wines rated below 85+ were selected somewhat randomly from the General shelves

Numbers can be what they appear to be - just numbers… or they can lead to meaningful conclusions.

Cheers, Ww

December 2011 Wines: 10 Tasted of 10

2011-12-07T13:57:00.053-05:00

Sharp Shinned Hawk Browsing

My venture into South Africa grew larger than anticipated so I've organized the 'orphans' here in a separate entry.

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, rosés, sparkles and other:

Stalking Horse 'McLaren Vale' Shiraz 2008*, 93-3 -- V, McLaren Vale, Australia, #251215 $17.95
[Veedha] Means Life Douro Red 2008, 89-2 -- V, Gaia, Portugal, #255851 $12.95
Trio Reserva Merlot/Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 89-2 -- V, Santiago, Chile, #433920 $14.95

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Stratus Riesling 2009 VQA Vinemount Ridge, 92-1 -- O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $35.20
Charles Baker Ivan Vineyard Stratus Riesling 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 90 -- O, NOTL, Ontario, #Winery $35.20
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 86 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #919514 $17.95
Bodega Francis Lurton Pinot Gris 2010, UCO Valley, 83 -- G, Argentina, #556746 $11.95

Bellussi Belcanto Extra Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore NV, 86 -- V, Valdobbiadene, Italy, #053215 $17.95
Domaine Allimant-Laugner Brut Crémant d’Alsace NV, 83 -- V, Orschwiller, France, #030593 $17.95
Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Sparkling Shiraz 2008, 82 -- V, Coonawara, Australia, #053330 $24.95

TASTINGS:

[VEEDHA] MEANS LIFE DOURO RED 2008, Gaia, Portugal, 13.0% D, #255851 $12.95 (Tasted December 24, 2011) CS

Produced by Sogevinus Fine Wine and a General listing. My notes: Suggested by @thegrapeguy, Michael Pinkus, in his column. Almost black in the glass with a smoky, earthy faint plum aroma and a lacy edged rim that refuses to fall - tilting shows columns of slow legs. Silky, full-bodied, a firm tannin with matching acids front concentrated black cherry flavours mellowed by process and ageing. The first sip declines slowly leaving a savoury red currant on the palate. A mellow and smooth sipper with a pleasing richness. Cellaring for another three years is doable, likely longer. 89

TRIO RESERVA MERLOT/CARMENÈRE/CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, Santiago, Chile, 14.0% XD, #433920 $14.95 (Tasted December 28, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on July 23, 2011. A blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Carmenère, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Sustainable practices are followed. My notes: The 2003 vintage tasted in March 2005, before ratings, was $13.95 and had cellaring potential. The 2010 is a dense ruby with a purple cast and a spicy ripe chocolate-dipped, black cherry aroma, mild with a warming penetration. The film sticks to the glass until fragmenting into long legs and lacy islands from a coloured rim. A sip confirms full-bodied with a silky softness easily matched by a penetrating acid. Flavours of plum, black cherry, dark chocolate and tobacco slowly fade to an earthy currant with an oily touch to the lips. Entertaining as a sipper although the end could use a buffet selection. A flexible complement with grilled meats, a beefy stew or rack of lamb. Cellaring for several years is likely but drinking well now and may not improve significantly. 89

STALKING HORSE 'MCLAREN VALE' SHIRAZ 2008, McLaren Vale, Australia, 15.0% XD, #251215 $17.95 (Tasted December 13, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on November 12, 2011 and rated 90 by Harvey Steinman (March 31, 2011). My notes: The videos on their website has Bruce Glugston, Winemaker, showing each of their single vineyard wines this one being from McLaren Vale, the others from Adelaide Hills and the Barossa Valley. *Considerable amount of sediment - decant. This has a purple hued ruby color, is dense in the glass with a film that sticks forming a solid rim flowing columns of slow tears. There’s a mild pepper to aromas of bacon and berry aromas. Full, velvety from the first sip, with smoky bacon and blueberry flavours gives distinctiveness. The velvet and a touch of oil remain at the end of a long flavourful, dry finish. This should cellar several years gaining more character altho’ it's well developed now. 93

CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD STRATUS RIESLING 2009 VQA Vinemount Ridge, NOTL, Ontario, 10.5% D, #Winery $35.20 (Tasted December 28, 2011)

My notes: The 2008 vintage was tasted in October last year with a rating of 93 due to its ‘delectable aroma of tropical fruit’, the likelihood of developing refined petrol and the fullness of flavour balanced with acids. Chilled to 8oC this vintage has less tropical aroma still ’noseworthy’ with tang balancing a subtle sweetness. A luscious first sip with long slow legs forming from a solid rim eventually cascading as lacy islands, on the lighter side of full-bodied with a finish carrying apple, pear, lime and a slight petrol to a dry end. A ‘leave me alone to sip’ sipper this also paired nicely with grilled Atlantic salmon and a green beans w/mushroom side. Drinking well now but could possibly be a solid performer in a few years. 92

CHARLES BAKER IVAN VINEYARD STRATUS RIESLING 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, NOTL, Ontario, 10.5% D, #Winery $35.20 (Tasted December 28, 2011)

My notes: Ordered directly from the winery this new Riesling, made from grapes grown in the Ivan vineyard, sold out quickly. The colour is a pale new gold, crystal clear in the glass with a delectable aroma of pear and sweet apple blossom. The film leaves a lacy rim that recedes evenly quickly forming lacy islands. At 10oC, my preferred sipping temp, there’s a change to sweet apple and almond in the nose - this follows to the flavours of the first sip. There’s a long finish ending with quieter citrus leaving the almond prominent still with a suspicion of natural sugar. Enigmatic to pair it was a mild complement to grilled Atlantic salmon and did not work with chicken Wellington with petit pois and risotto. I’ll save for sipping where character builds with each sip… or cellar year by year and watch for a peak. A drink now. 90
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BODEGA FRANCOIS LURTON PINOT GRIS 2010, UCO Valley, Argentina, 12.5% D, #556746 $11.95 (Tasted December 2, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: Recommended by Anthony Gismondi (@TheSpitter) in a Tweet (Nov 30) “… a ridiculous value”. As well, Jay Miller (Wine Advocate) stated “Francois Lurton’s newest releases are uniformly excellent” June 2011. A pale lemon colour and a just perceptible pond scum aroma that airs quickly - not objectionable, not fruity/floral. Flavours of delicate kiwi with a melon tinge, a nice tang and texture, dry on a slow journey to a dry end. An acceptable sipper for a mixed buffet or paired with white fish fillets seared and roasted with mixed root vegetables. A drink now before the meagre fruit disappears. 83

WITHER HILLS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% XD, #919514 $17.95 (Tasted December 4, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on November 12, 2011. My notes: Vineyards are located in the Wairau Valley in Marlborough and Ben Glover is the winemaker. A clean crisp blond colour with an aroma of partly ripe gooseberries has a conservative initial appeal. A thin film with a evenly receding lacy rim says it’s a lightish medium body sipper. A tang that grabs the palate in the same way as walking a bush row and crushing a few herbaceous gooseberries impromptu gains the palate’s prompt attention. A sipper if you enjoy some acid with your conversation, otherwise, a complement to crustaceans or their finny cousins - went well with Clarkson Fish & Chips. Cellaring a year could maintain current appeal. 86

DOMAINE ALLIMANT-LAUGNER BRUT CRÉMANT D'ALSACE NV, Orschwiller, France, 12.5% XD, 030593 $17.95 (Tasted December 1, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on October 15, 2011. Scored 1 star out of 3 by Guide Hachette's rating system (2010). A blend of 80% Auxerrois and 20% Riesling. My notes: I'm curious to know how a 1 star is rated when tasted here. There’s a burst of varying size bubbles on pouring that settles to large then steady streams of fine - no mousse. A pale straw colour with a light yeasty aroma and soft texture from the first sip. A moderate lemon tang and hint of apple pie builds interest then quickly ends with a soft mineral dryness. The initial sip is followed by a bland finish - quaffing helps maintain interest. Have with salty hors d‘oeuvres. A well made, straightforward style to be served well chilled. 83

BELLUSSI BELCANTO EXTRA DRY PROSECCO DI VALDOBBIADENE SUPERIORE NV, Valdobbiadene, Italy, 11.5% XD, #053215 $17.95 (Tasted December 25, 2011) CS

A Vintages Release on November 26, 2011. My notes: Tasted a year ago on December 31, 2010 and rated 88. Vintages has retained the same notes as the 2010 Release. Except for the price, a loonie higher, there’s likely consistency from this producer. There’s a floral aspect to a fresh apple aroma as a profusion of bubbles, mostly fine, bursts on the initial pour and forms a light mousse at the rim. A pale blond with a spritz that blends nicely with a biting acid and sweet apple flavours, milder than previous, that decline slowly to a bone dry fruit. Served with a mixed Mandarin Gardens selection this cut the sugary sauces and paired with a combination of beef slices, shrimp and chicken balls. A refreshing drink now. 86

KATNOOK ‘FOUNDER'S BLOCK’ SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2008, Coonawara, Australia, 12.5% D, #053330 $24.95 (Tasted December 18, 2011) CS.

A Vintages release on November 27, 2010. My notes: The 2008 is five dollars more than the 2004 tasted in September 2010 - that’s our monopoly’s approach to saving Ontarians from overindulging. The 2004 was released by Vintages and tasted December 8, 2007 (89). The vintage maintained high ratings when retasted October 21 2008 (89), March 25 2010 (88) and September 25, 2010 (87). Last December 9th the 2008 was ‘lip smacking luscious’ , rated 88 and became a family favourite. Tasted today, December 18th there is the same deep ruby colour and faint blackberry aromas with a steely coolness. Fine bubbles burst on pouring relaxing to a stream settling at the rim. A strong tartness accompanied by a light bitterness meets the palate, negligible fresh fruit but an abrupt dryness continuing to a metallic end - chalky tannins predominate. Pairing with a raisin and brown sugared ham steak wasn’t satisfactory Perhaps pairing with bacon stacked on a bun or maple coated waffles and sausage. Lacks distinct varietal character and past peak. 82

December 2011 South African Reds: 12 Tasted of 12

2011-12-01T02:01:00.103-05:00

Several events converged to bring South African wines into focus for this month‘s tasting selection. Beppi Crosariol’s column of November 22, 2011 reviewed two South African wines, Thelema Mountain Red wine and KWV Chenin Blanc. By happenchance I had rated Thelema Shiraz 2006 (#146431 $19.95) 92-2 just last month - will the lower price point red show value?
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Also, I follow Sarah Ahmed (@Sarahwine) on Twitter. Over a few weeks in November Sarah was touring South African wineries as part of her business and several tweets referred to wineries, to tastings, trade personalities and wines.
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Sarah also blogs as THEWINEDETECTIVE with focus on Australia, the Loire, Portugal and South Africa. One tweet in particular referred to a video of a Swartland event. It illustrates the revitalized spirit of South Africa‘s wine industry. You may find it, The Swartland Revolution 2011 embedded below, and a map of the Winery Regions of the Western Cape interesting:
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In past years many South African wines had an objectionable (to me) bandaid aspect peculiar to the Pinotage reds, in a way, similar to Niagara's Foch. It's past time to satisfy my curiosity concerning current SA wine styles and any focus there may be on terroir and a move to traditional grape varieties. There's a few labels on the General shelves and some Vintages offerings. Drawing conclusions from those selected may be limited.

Twenty-three South African wines selected - 12 reds, 10 whites and a late harvest - are included in THE LINEUPs for Reds and Whites+ .

For wines from wineries using Sustainable viticulture look the for the SWSA label. For conclusions click on The Taste of South Africa.

Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP - Reds:

Post House Cellar Blueish Black 2009, 94-3 -- G, Raithby, South Africa, #226639 $13.75 (now $14.30)
The Winery of Good Hope Black Rock Red 2007, 90-2 -- V, Somerset West, South Africa, #068502 $18.95
Thelema Mountain Red 2007, 89-2 -- G, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #222570 $11.95
Lightning over the Cape 1
Porcupine Ridge Syrah/Viognier 2010, 89-2 -- V, Coastal Region, South Africa, #079442 $16.95
Post House Penny Black 2008, 89-1 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #148619 $19.95
Durbanville Hills Shiraz 2009, 86-1 -- G, Durbanville, South Africa, #022269 $11.95
Boschendal 1685 Shiraz 2009, 84 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #096511 $18.95 (now $19.95)
Flat Roof Manor Merlot 2009, 83 -- G, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #129874 $10.95
Obikwa Shiraz 2010, 82 -- G, Western Cape, South Africa, #527499 $8.95
Sonop Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 82 -- V, Western Cape, South Africa, #606160 $13.95
Goats Do Roam ‘The Goatfather’ 2009, 82 -- V, Paarl, South Africa, #011072 $14.95
Slent Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2010, 81 -- G, Paarl, South Africa, #226688 $9.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, VOL - Vintages OnLine, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

PORCUPINE RIDGE SYRAH/VIOGNIER 2010, Coastal Region, South Africa, 14.0% XD, #079442   $16.95 (Tasted December 5, 2011) CS
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A Vintages release on October 29, 2011 and produced by Boekenhoutskloof . My notes: A blend of 94% Shiraz and 6% Viognier. Purple tinged in the glass with a subtle aromas of spice, blackberry and faint floral. A swirl that laces the rim forming columns of slow tears and leaving islands behind. There’s a softness before a warm layer of spice and tannin sets in. A raspberry touch to the smoky blackberry provides a polite medium-bodied sipper ending dry and flavourful. A sociable sipper - a suitable pairing for a seasoned grilled meat dish. I’m planning a supper of beer-brined pork chop grilled on the bbq with Maple syrup glazed baby turnips and a skinned red pepper and onion sauce - parts from three recipes PS. turned out to be a nice match!. Young now with undeveloped depth so cellaring for several years should do well. 89

SONOP CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, Western Cape, South Africa, 12.5% XD, #606160   $13.95 (Tasted December 19, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on November 12, 2011 and produced by African Terroir Ltd. An organic and a fair trade wine. My notes: A slight purple gives authenticity while the nose adds faintly to the grape. A swirl leaves a thin film with a solid rim slowly giving up slow tears. Airing for an hour lessens a dullness to light red currant flavours. On the light side of medium-bodied with noticeable tannins and mild acid with flavours that fade quickly ending extra dry. More of a grilled meat or pizza red than a sipper - a drink now. A shallow profile better quaffed with food. 82

FLAT ROOF MANOR MERLOT 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.0% D, #129874 $10.95 (Tasted December 5, 2011) CS

A General listing and produced by Distillers Corporation Limited. My notes: A ruby red with a mild aroma of berries and spicy herbs. Columns of tears run slowly from a gentle swirl and the first sip has a tangy red currant and raspberry flavour with a penetrating acid - flavour drops halfway while a dry warm woody stang (combined sting and tang) takes over the palate. An OK sipper if you prefer the prominent tartness - better if left open overnight. My preference is paired with grilled beef… prime rib or T-bone, even a beef stew. A drink now. 83

THELEMA MOUNTAIN RED 2007, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.5% D, #222570 $11.95 (Tasted December 2, 2011) CS

A General listing. Rated 89 by Beppi in his column.  My notes: The vineyards are located on the slopes of Simonsberg mountain above Stellenbosch at Helshoogle. A blend of Shiraz and Merlot having a deep ruby colour and stinging blackberry aromas. A swirl leaves a firm film, a solid rim quickly shedding fast columns. Spicy, sharp, hot and strong ripe fruit flavours cleanse the palate preparing it for grilled red meats: T-bone steak, bbq’d ribs or beef tenderloin with Henry Bain sauce . Cellared four - four more may mellow some of the roughness. 89

SLENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2010, Paarl, South Africa, 14.0% D, #226688 $9.95 (Tasted December 6, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes:A ruby colour with raspberry/blueberry aromas and a thin, lacy rimmed film shedding slow tears are first impressions. Drying tannins balancing tart acids almost mask fresh berry flavours which quickly fade to a dry woody aftertaste, medium-bodied. Decanting and airing for an hour does little to mellow an aggressive sipper - try overnight. Better paired with a grilled steak or Texas chili - OK with bbq’d hamburger with the works. Cellaring is likely to fade fruit leaving a more dominant acid/tannin presence. A drink now. 81
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DURBANVILLE HILLS SHIRAZ 2009, Durbanville, South Africa, 14.0% D, #022269 $11.95 (Tasted December 21, 2011) CS
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A General listing and produced by Durbanville Hills. My notes:There’s a purple tint to the deep ruby, deep and clear in the glass. Scant aromas of salty blueberry and tobacco, faint but distinct. The rim gradually recedes as lacy islands flowing a few fast legs and the first sip is velvety smooth, has a penetrating tang and flavours of red currant and black olive fading quickly leaving some salt, a light tannin and a touch of fruit. Priced for quaffing or generous servings with Reuben sandwiches or Montreal smoked meat on rye. Try cellaring a year or two but drinking well now. 86

POST HOUSE CELLAR BLUEISH BLACK 2009, Raithby, South Africa, 14.5% D, #226639 $13.75 (now $14.30) (Tasted December 9, 2011) CS
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A General listing. My notes: The PostHouse cellar is located at the foot of the Helderberg Mountains between Stellenbosch and Somerset West. Blackish ruby is my descriptor for the colour and the nose is a low key blueberry edged with tar and brightened by a peppery tang. A blend of 32% Shiraz, 32% Pinotage, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot - any sweetness is well hidden. The rim is immediately edged with lace then slowly drops columns of tears. The first sip is full-bodied and well balanced with moderate flavours of currant and blueberry. Silk starts a long finish warming everything it touches then fading gradually. A fireside sipper to accompany an intriguing mystery story or pair with Beef Wellington, prime rib sliced red and thin or a crown of minted lamb. Cellar for several years but drinking well now. 94

OBIKWA SAUVIGNON BLANC & SHIRAZ W/HEADBAND GIFT BOX, #188912 $17.90 CS

A Gift Box for the season consisting of an Obikwa headband and two General listed wines. Tasting notes for the Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc is in the Whites+ blog.

OBIKWA SHIRAZ 2010, Western Cape, South Africa, 13.5% D, #527499 $8.95 (Tasted December 21, 2011) CS
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My notes: A deep ruby colour and a rim that laces and recedes quickly. The nose has a mild peppery aroma of berries, blue- and rasp-. Half way to silky smooth with a nice bite and noticeable tannins, balanced with the same berry blend. A satisfying sipper for a congenial crowd although finishing dry in the mouth and looking for nibbles - better to pair with grilled beef, bacon, or a tomato pasta with chorizo sausage. Fairly shallow as if from young vines or blended with a lighter red such as sangiovese. A drink now. 82

POST HOUSE PENNY BLACK 2008, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 15.0% XD, #148619   $19.95 (Tasted December 9, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on October 1, 2011. Rated 91 by James Molesworth (June 15, 2011). A blend of Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Chenin Blanc made with minimal handling: natural yeasts, no filtration and minimal fining.   My notes: A blend of Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot with a spicy fresh currant/berry aroma and a graphite hued ruby red colour. First there’s heat then intense, tart flavours of blueberry, red currant and liquorice. Tannin and acid are balanced with the fruit with no sense of sweetness leaving the entire mouth chalk dry. The finish retains the warmth, is moderately flavoured, short, ending as an extra dry sipper with some bramble. Have with grilled meats and full flavoured stews. Cellaring may introduce some softness - a drink now. 89
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GOATS DO ROAM ‘THE GOATFATHER’ 2009, Paarl, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #011072   $14.95 (Tasted December 14, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on October 1, 2011. My notes: A Fairview Wines blend of Sangiovese, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. A clear ruby in the glass with aromas of black cherries and red currants, bright to the nose. There’s a light film that leaves a solid rim shedding moderately fast tears. The first sip is medium-bodied, has an appealing softness with drying tannins, warmth and faint berry flavours. The finish is moderate ending dry and woody. Have with grilled meats, hamburgers or pizzas. Not for cellaring - a straightforward commercial drink-now likely to satisfy a general crowd. 82

BOSCHENDAL 1685 SHIRAZ 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.0% D, #096511 $18.95 (now $19.95) (Tasted December 27, 2011) CS
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The Boschendal 1685 Shiraz was released by Vintages on October 15, 2011. My notes: A touch of purple gives this ruby expectations. The nose needs time to develop, initially a soft spicy plum followed with a touch of berry. A swirl leaves a firm film with a solid rim eventually shedding slow tears. The first sip is full in the mouth with an instant sting settling to a penetrating warmth, balanced tannins with mild fruit, a woody berry flavour. The finish ends quickly with lighter everything. A short front end and middle making this an interesting sipper. Cellaring a few more years could develop a broader character - worth a try. Have with a ham steak or roast turkey with lingonberry sauce or a T-bone mildly seasoned with sweet potato fries.   84

THE WINERY OF GOOD HOPE BLACK ROCK RED 2007, Somerset West, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #068502   $18.95 (Tasted December 31, 2011) CS
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A Vintages release on April 2, 2011.   My notes: What is shown on their website is 'Radford Dale' Black Rock a blend of 71% Shirax, 13% Carignan, 12% Grenache, 3% Mourvedre and 1% Viognier.An opaque graphite toned ruby with aromas of black cherries, red currant, chocolate mint and a slight BRETT - aerate or decant an hour before. A swirl leaves a thick film with a solid rim flowing long slow legs. An interesting set of flavours comes with the first sip: black cherry, cedar, tobacco. Fine tannins balanced with mild acid coat the palate going into a long extra dry finish that ends chalk dry. Smooth with interesting changes from start to finish gives appeal as a sipper if you like earthy reds. Better with savoury meats. This should cellar well for a few more years but is drinking near peak. 90

December 2011 South African Whites+: 9 Tasted of 9

2011-12-01T02:00:00.086-05:00

The Intro to December 2011 South African Wines is in the South African Reds blog.

Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by whites, rosés, sparkles and other:

Lightning over the Cape 2

Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2008, 90-2 -- V, Swartland, South Africa, #225458 $16.95
Graham Beck Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2009, 90-2 -- V, Franschhoek, South Africa, #231357 $17.95
Iona Chardonnay 2009, 90-1 -- V, Elgin, South Africa, #236026 $24.95
Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2009, 88-1 -- V, Somerset West, South Africa, #739995 $14.95
Elgin Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 87-1 -- V, Elgin, South Africa, #207167 $14.95
Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2009, 87 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #717090 $17.55
Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2011, 82 -- G, Western Cape, South Africa, #527465 $8.95
Ken Forrester Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2009, 81 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #231282 $17.95

Fleur du Cape Noble Late Harvest 2008, 93-1 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #173781 (375 mL) $20.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:
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VINUM AFRICA CHENIN BLANC 2009, Somerset West, South Africa, 13.5% XD, #739995 $14.95 (Tasted December 16, 2011) CS

Jamie Drummond and Alex Dale, Winemaker and Founder of the Winery of Good Hope, discuss the revival of Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir in South Africa.
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Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2009, produced by The Winery of Good Hope, was released by Vintages on November 12, 2011. My notes: A light golden with herbaceous aromatics, some citrus, some fresh vegetable, well blended - a few minutes allows nose to develop a floral taint. A lacy rim with several slow legs and a first sip that is dry, lightly salted with a flavour of crushed lemon seed, on the medium side of full-bodied. A light cream with a finish that is long, warm, lemon lined kiwi adds appeal - an interesting sipper and a flexible fish white. Have with grilled tilapia or haddock with an orange sauce and basmati rice. Drink now or cellar a year or two - longer may have a surprise. 88

LAMMERSHOEK ROULETTE BLANC 2008, Swartland, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #225458 $16.95 (Tasted December 15, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on April 2, 2011. My notes: A blend of 48% Chenin Blanc, 41% Chardonnay and 11% Viognier. This has a rich new gold colour and shows mid viscosity as the film sticks to the sides forms a lacy rim then drops several slow tears. The nose has a herbaceous tang to aromas of ripe tropical fruit. Ripe pineapple and lime make up most of the flavour leaving a distinct sharpness making this is a wine for seafoods or white fowl. A soft cream fills out the body adding elegance while carrying the flavours to a lengthy end. Cellaring for several years should be doable - longer may bring more grassiness forward. Drinking wonderfully now with a distinct terroir brought by sustainable and organic vine maintenance. 90

KEN FORRESTER STELLENBOSCH CHENIN BLANC 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.0% XD, #231282 $17.95 (Tasted December 6, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on May 28, 2011.   My notes: Sustainable farming without pesticides nor herbicides. A mid golden light and crisp with floral, light honey and lanolin aromas. The film runs a lacy rim slowly falling to the meniscus. The first sip starts with a light honey quickly shifting to sour lemon, herbaceous and extra dry leaving the palate parched, warm and a mineral tainted aftertaste. If sucking on a lemon is your thing this is a sipper. I prefer pairing with roast chicken, a grilled trout filet or perhaps with fresh oysters. May have passed a fruity peak and now has an acidic herbal profile. Drink soon. 81

ELGIN VALLEY VINEYARDS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Elgin, South Africa, 13.0% XD, #207167 $14.95 (Tasted December 19, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on August 20, 2011. My notes: A pale blond with prominent floral gooseberry aromas - pleasing to the senses. A swirl leaves a thin film with a solid rim and columns of long slow tears. The first sip is silky, quite tangy and accompanied by fresh flavours of ripe gooseberry staying on the tongue a short while fading to lemongrass then a chalky dryness. Just a tad light, body and tang, when paired with lemon linguine and shrimp/scallops but should go well with grilled halibut or cod and chips. Keeping a few for a year should be OK - longer is iffy. 87

OBIKWA SAUVIGNON BLANC & SHIRAZ W/HEADBAND GIFT BOX, #188912 $17.90 CS

A Gift Box for the season consisting of an Obikwa headband and two General listed wines. Tasting notes for the Obikwa Shiraz is in the Reds blog:

OBIKWA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, Western Cape, South Africa, 12.0% D, #527465 $8.95 (Tasted December 5, 2011) CS

My notes:   A light golden with a greenish tint and possibly a lime nose. The film sticks to the glass before forming slow tears from a lacy edged rim. A slight tang, a subtle softness, flavours of lemon and lime going into a long finish ending dry on the tongue. A reasonable Sauvignon Blanc lacking a clear terroir, a NZ gooseberry or a Bordeaux svelte texture. Save for an open bar - an economical alternative to [yellow tail]. Could be matched with veal schnitzel and spaetzle. A drink now. 82

MULDERBOSCH CHARDONNAY 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 13.0% XD, #717090 $17.55 (Tasted December 11, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on May 14, 2011. My notes: I tried the Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc (#933424, $18.95) released on July 18 2007 - this is the first time I’ve noticed the chardonnay being available. The colour is a mid new gold and has aromas of tart papaya with a warmed butter taint. The film sticks then falls slowly following a lacy edge and the first taste has a bright attack and grassy citrus flavours with a warm follow through. The finish is moderately long and extra dry. Paired nicely with fennel, leek and potato soup with poached eggs. Well made showing some oak treatment - an ‘acquired’ taste as a sipper. Have with grilled fish entrees or dark fowl; turkey legs or duck. A few years cellaring may smooth some rough edges. 87

IONA ‘ELGIN’ CHARDONNAY 2009, Elgin, South Africa, 13.5% XD, #236026 $24.95 (Tasted December 4, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on October 15, 2011. Aged “discreetly in French oak”.   My notes: A light golden colour - a jagged rim shedding small slow tears while quickly receding - a nose that defies distinct aromas - an initial sip that’s pleasingly tart, a slight fullness with spicy flavours of grapefruit and lime - each adding elegance. Serving well chilled, 10 - 12oC, allows some changes to occur increasing sip-ability. The combination of body, acid and light oil overcomes any lacking and can’t be anything but Chardonnay - a long unwavering finish that ends extra dry. Have with grilled halibut/haddock on a bed of ginger basmati or Yukon Gold risotto. Cellaring for several years should be OK - a drink now leaving you wanting the next sip. 90
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GRAHAM BECK BOWED HEAD CHENIN BLANC 2009, Franschhoek, South Africa, 14.0% XD, #231357   $17.95 (Tasted December 26, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on May 28, 2011. My notes: A pale golden, crisp and clear, and leaves a lacy rim flowing long slow legs. The nose has a spicy, herbal, burnt butter aroma with strong initial appeal. Not a timid Chenin Blanc being full-bodied, tangy, with some softness then finishing long, extra dry with a grassy, caramel tainted grapefruit apple flavour. Paired nicely with leftover Chinese food of chicken balls with sweet & sour sauce, shrimp, beef, brown rice and bean sprouts, and is a flexible complement to a broad set of seafood or white fowl recipes. Approaching peak and could cellar several years - drinking well now. 90
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FLEUR DU CAP NOBLE LATE HARVEST 2008, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 10.0% S, #173781 375 mL $20.95 (Tasted December 9, 2011) CS
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A Vintages release on October 1, 2011. Rated 5 (of 5) by Angela Lloyd (Platter’s South African Wine Guide) 2010. My notes:A blend of 58% Semillon and 42% Riesling. A deep amber colour showing a viscous meniscus and leading to a dense first sip; sweet, round and silky in the mouth with a subtle tang. Served chilled this was 10oC refreshingly tart moderately full of sultanas on the nose. A delightful aftertaste of stewed apricots and figs left behind lasted several minutes delaying a rushed second sip. Sip and savour is key with this LH. Have as a dessert option or as an afternoon aperitif with a challenging bridge hand. Cellaring for several years is likely but is smooth and mellow as a drink now. 93

Beaujolais Nouveau etc. 2011 Picks: 6 Tasted of 6

2011-11-23T18:08:00.004-05:00

Fading Western Sun, Tofino '99

It’s that time of year again when LCBO honours the tradition of ‘Nouveau’, wines having a freshness meant to be enjoyed within the month. Each country releases less than a dozen of the current vintage with an abbreviated fermentation process. Beppi Crosariol’s column of October 4th tells the tale of Beaujolais Nouveau over the past few years. A tale, with a happy ending, of the effect of corporate opportunism on one of France’s prestigious wine regions. His short video is also worth the time to view.

Konrad Ejbich (Twitter @WineZone ) tried the 2011s. Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau and Vignerons Catalan Primeur Syrah-Merlot were his two favourites. Gordon Stimmell in his article November 15th (The Star) picked Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau, Negrar Novello del Veneto and Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau as the top three of the nine he tasted. The wines were released by the LCBO early Thursday morning.

My last tasting of Nouveau’s was November 23rd of 2010. The results are listed below - two of the wines are repeated (>) this year:

Mezzacorona Novio 2010 Vino Novello di Teroldego, 89-2 -- G, Trentino, Italy, #669275 $9.95
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Beaujolais Villages Nouveau, 88-1 -- V, Beaune, France, #113266 $14.95
>Georges DuBoeuf 2010 Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau, 88-1 -- V, Romanèche-Thorins, France, #932780 $14.95
Georges DuBoeuf 2010 Gamay Nouveau, 87-2 -- G, Ardèche, France, #891846 $8.95
>Cantina 2010 Novello del Veneto IGT, 86-1 -- G, Negrar, Italy, 12.0% D, #899955 $9.95
The Fool Reif Estate Gamay Nouveau VQA Niagara River, 83 -- G, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, #220483 $10.95

The six for a blind tasting this year were an arbitrary selection of the eleven released.

The Setup

Five of the six were setup for a blind tasting the afternoon of November 23rd with one following the next day. Notes follow.

Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP:

Georges DuBoeuf Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau 2011, 84 -- V, Beaujolais, France, #932780 $14.95
Georges DuBoeuf Gamay Nouveau 2011, 82 -- G, Burgundy, France, #891846 $8.95
Primeur Syrah 2011, 81 -- G, Pays d’Oc, France, 12.5% D, #899948 $9.95
Cantina Tollo Giocale Novello Rosso Terre de Chietti 2011, 81 -- G, Abruzzo, Italy, #271759 $8.95
Primeur Catalan Syrah-Merlot 2011, 80 -- G, Pays d’Oc, France, #220533 $9.95
Cantina di Negrar Novello Del Veneto 2011, 80 -- G, Negrar, Italy, #899955 $9.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

The Result

The Reveal

Each nouveau should be allowed to mellow in the open bottle an hour if initial pouring shows exaggerated ‘bubblegum` aromas and flavours. Some may lose their freshness if left longer... and I preferred each served at 12-14oC. The wines tasted could get along with a table of mixed cheeses, party sandwiches and crackers w/dip but let sippers do the pairing. Some just don’t go with anything. Salut, Ww

GEORGES DUBOEUF BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES NOUVEAU 2011 (Map it!) , Beaujolais, France, 12.5% D, #932780 $14.95 (Tasted November 23, 2011) CS

A General listing labelled Appellation Beaujolais-Villages Controlée. My notes: A light bubblegum -cherry/strawberry- aroma on initial pour that dissipates slowly. A lacy rim breaks into islands adding a few quick tears on the glass, no staining. A touch of tannin and a weak cherry/blueberry flavour with the ‘gum’ in the background fading to a short chalk dry finish, light-bodied. Difficult to pair, perhaps would complement a buffet hedging toward sausage pieces and mini tortières or try with rack of lamb. 84

GEORGES DUBOEUF GAMAY NOUVEAU 2011 (Map it!) , Burgundy, France, 12.5% D, #891846 $8.95 (Tasted November 23, 2011) CS

A General listing labelled Vins de Pays de l‘Ardèche. My notes: A just perceptible soft blackberry nose from a ruby colour with a tint of blue. Slight staining, a firm film with an unbroken rim flowing a few slow legs and the first sip has a noticeable acid and drying tannins leaving a hollow flavour of dried black fruit, lightish medium-bodied. A reasonable sipper until the finish sets in then finger foods would be helpful. Let air to settle out initial mustiness. 82

PRIMEUR SYRAH 2011, Pays d’Oc, France, 12.5% D, #899948 $9.95 (Tasted November 23, 2011) CS

A General listing produced by Maison Jean Jean. My notes: There`s a purple tint to an insipid ruby and the rim stays firm shedding long fast legs. A sniff is a bearable strawberry liquorice - no sign of pepper. There is a herbal hint to a light berry flavour on first sipping, atypical of the varietal, and an aftertaste similar to that chewing a red jelly bear. A short finish, light bodied and dry. If the buffet is handy try with tomato bruschetta but the oregano may object. 81

CANTINA TOLLO GIOCALE NOVELLO ROSSO TERRE DI CHIETI 2011, Abruzzo, Italy, 12.5% D, #271759 $8.95 (Tasted November 23, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: A deep purple, regal in the glass with a soft berry nose after airing. Soft on the palate on first sip with a touch of berry and balanced acid for flavouring with a mild tannin. Dry with a moderate acid makes this a general crowd sipper - not a conversation starter but one to keep the party going if an open bar. Have with a tray of mixed crackers and cheeses. 81

PRIMEUR CATALAN SYRAH-MERLOT 2011, Pays d’Oc, France, 12.5% D, #220533 $9.95 (Tasted November 23, 2011) CS

A General listing produced by Vignerons Catalans. My notes: A strongly perfumed raspberry-strawberry liquorice stick nose, delicious if you like perfume with your wine. A purple tinged ruby, a light film that separates quickly into fast tears and the first sip is well balanced - flavour, tannin, acid - with little aspect of `liquorice`. Lightish medium-bodied and frivolous, a smoother b-n where the nose infuses the flavour. Have on an occasion as a substitute to marshmallows and cream soda. 80

CANTINA DI NEGRAR NOVELLO DEL VENETO 2011 (Map it!) , Negrar, Italy, 12.0% D, #899955 $9.95 (Tasted November 24, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: A loose cork went in rather than out forcing some unwanted spray when this bottle was opened. Not included in the blind tasting but was rated separately. A normal ruby with a firm film and columns of slow legs - a light staining on the glass. Not the ‘airplane dope’ aromas of last year, this vintage there’s no nose to speak of. The first sip has a smoothness introducing flavours of berries lasting a short while before ending smooth and dry. Light-bodied and lightly flavoured makes this a passable sipper and some affiliation with chicken or pork entrees. A novello with little character but very quaffable. 80

November 2011 Whites+: 16 Tasted of 16

2011-11-01T03:01:00.069-04:00

Montreal Olympic Place, '78

This month I've separated Reds from the rest, Whites+. Hopefully this simplifies finding a specific wine and for editing. The Intro is repeated in both.

Several factors instigated my collection of wines for November:

My BH had a beautiful Pinot Noir from Oregon when dining with friends. This led to the Chelalem Pinot as well as the Chelalem Pinot Gris purchased for my natal day... and I've added a few more to compare.
Never having used Vintages OnLine service I reviewed the wines they had available. Unsurprisingly most of the offerings were in a much higher price bracket than my budget… one exception was the Sarah Powell Pinot Noir reduced by $10 to $29. Worth a try? I’ll see.
Beppi Crosariol in his article of October 20th gave high 80’s for a few economical wines thus the French Malbec, the BC Cab Merlot and Chilean Syrah were added. This list was expanded to include three Mission Hill’s, four Cono Sur’s and three Argentine’s from the General shelves. I’ve been neglecting the Generals lately due to a focus on Niagara wines.
Three French bubblies, one from Alsace near the border with Germany, one from the west of mid centre, one from the south near the Mediterranean and, while we`re there, a couple of Provence XD rosés, my favourites.

...and thanks for the suggestions in Tweets received. Salut, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by whites, rosés, sparkles and other:

Emiliana Natura Un-oaked Chardonnay 2011, 90-2 -- V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #061895 $15.95
Carmen Reserva Chardonnay 2010, 89-2 -- G, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #235663 $10.95
Cono Sur Viognier 2010, 84 -- G, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #064287 $10.00
Mission Hill ‘Five Vineyards’ Pinot Blanc 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, 84 -- G, BC, Canada, #145094 $14.95
Chehalem Reserve Pinot Gris 2007, 82 -- V, Willamette Valley, Oregon, #180372 $22.95
Hahn Estates Chardonnay Monterey 2008, 81 -- G, Soledad, California, #234393 $16.95
Cono Sur Riesling 2011, 80 -- G, Central Valley, Chile, #156653 $9.95
Cono Sur Chardonnay Organic 2011, 80 -- G, San Antonio Valley, Chile, #230565 $11.95
Mission Hill ‘Five Vineyards’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, 80 -- G, BC, Canada, #145086 $14.95

Château de Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé 2010, 89-1 -- V, Tavel, France, #729947 $17.95
The Wolftrap Rosé 2010, 88-1 -- V, Franschoek, South Africa, #169409 $12.95
Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence Rosé 2010, 88-1 -- V, Aix-en-Provence, France, #118653 $13.95
Finca Flichman 'Misterio' Rosé Malbec-Shiraz 2010, 85 -- G, Mendoza, Argentina, #170126 $8.20

Brisebarre Brut Vouvray NV, 89-1 -- V, Loire, France, #226241 $18.95
Mausberg Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant d’Alsace NV, 88-1 -- V, Beblenheim, France, #171785 $17.95
Antech ‘Expression’ Brut Crémant de Limoux 2008, 88-1 -- V, Limoux, France, #068239 $17.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:
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CHEHALEM RESERVE PINOT GRIS 2007, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 13.5% D, #180372 $22.95 (Tasted November 21, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on November 13, 2010. This has an old rating of 92 (February 1, 2009) by Paul Gregutt (Wine Enthusiast).   My notes:The film is thin showing a lacy rim immediately that recedes slowly without tears. A faint nose not discernibly aromatic and a first sip that is nippy and lacking distinguishable flavours, a tame grapefruit perhaps. Light-bodied, a short finish leaving the palate dry and grassy. Was OK with Cuban cod with tomatoes with a broccoli side but not contributing much as a partner. Could be past peak if a 92 two years ago. A drink now. 82

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CONO SUR RIESLING 2011, Central Valley, Chile, 13.0% D, #156653 $9.95 (Tasted November 17, 2011) CS
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A General listing. My notes: A pale yellow with a subtle scent of grapefruit. A swirl leaves a lacy rim that recedes slowly until nothing. The first sip has flavours of lemon-lime with a balanced acid, tangy not sharp and declines slowly, evenly until a dryness takes over. Refreshing as an aperitif or midday sipper and should go well with grilled seafood and asparagus - not likely roast chicken nor pork. A reasonable impression of a riesling and for the price should appeal to patrons at a stand-up bar. 80
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CONO SUR VIOGNIER 2010, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 14.0% D, #064287 $10.00 (Tasted November 6, 2011) CS

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A General listing. My notes: There’s a greenish tint to the clear new gold colour. The film sticks to the glass, runs slow tears then breaks into fragmented islands. Hardly a scent in the nose, perhaps a lemon/melon combination and the first sip is smooth, tangy, full-bodied and has a tropical citrus flavour. The finish has a lemongrass aftertaste riding on the silky texture. Pair with any seafood or grilled white fowl entrée. Not a floral or delicate Viognier although has some interesting qualities in its fullness. If you are looking for Viognier there’s other choices. If you’re looking for a rounded, smooth textured meal white this is an economical choice. A drink now and preferred to the Cono Sur Chardonnay Organic. 84
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CONO SUR CHARDONNAY ORGANIC 2011, San Antonio Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #230565 $11.95 (Tasted November 2, 2011) CS
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A General listing. My notes: A just perceptible aroma of honey and grapefruit when chilled becoming more prominent gaining a perfumed scent as the wine warms. The colour is a shiny light lemon and leaves a light film with a solid rim shedding a few slow tears. A touch of silk with a sweet-edged lemon flavour followed by an intense tang then finishing tart and grassy. A refreshing sipper for a hot day or a straightforward complement with diner meals - went nicely with Longo’s grilled salmon burgers and sweet potato fries. A commercial beverage to appeal to an on-the-go urban consumer. 80
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MISSION HILL 'FIVE VINEYARDS' PINOT BLANC 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada, 13.5% D, #145094    $14.95 (Tasted November 10, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: A light golden in the glass with the subtle sweet scent of mown hay. The film sticks then slowly fragments evenly down the glass. Nicely tart with some roundness and a slight flavour of light honey barely sweet or balanced with the tart of white grapefruit. Finishes with a light crushed seed dryness. Clean and crisp on the palate and has an interesting but not outstanding character, as a sipper better offchill slightly - pair with a seafood entrée or a green salad. Not for cellaring - a drink now. 84
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MISSION HILL 'FIVE VINEYARDS' SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada, 13.5% D, #145086   $14.95 (Tasted November 17, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: Chill well, below 12oC, before serving to retain meagre aroma and fruit otherwise expect a flat profile. A bland blond colour with a nose that’s just discernible as soft melon. The first sip has a lemon and melon aspect with a light tang. Finishes with soft fruit and modest acid leaving a slight flavour blend and dry. I found it difficult to pair - try with a buffet of finger foods, party shrimp or hummus and dry crackers. Has an interesting depth when quaffed and character builds with each sip. Not for cellaring and disappointing compared with a varietal driven SB - Bordeaux or New Zealand. 80

EMILIANA NATURA UN-OAKED CHARDONNAY 2011, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 14.0% XD, #061895   $15.95 (Tasted November 13, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on October 29, 2011. My notes: A new gold with a green tint and an aroma of green grapefruit, a hint of pear and a touch of vanilla for a nose. A lacy rim forms immediately and slides quickly down the glass. The first taste has a full nip front to back side to side with a silkiness adding interest to lightly rounded flavours of honeydew melon and pear. The taste continues through a long warm finish ending with only a suspicion of fruity sweetness - quite delicious. Cellaring for several years could hold a surprise - perhaps four years tops. An honest expression of a terroir biased chard. 90

CARMEN RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2010, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #235663 $10.95 (Tasted November 21, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: A Reserva for $11 - I must not understand how the term applies but who pays attention to labels at this price point? The colour is a light gold, crystal clean. The nose needs time to establish a presence then a delicate melon with a tinge of spicy floral. A swirl leaves long legs from a lacy rim slow to recede breaking into columns. The first sip, medium-bodied, mixes softness with a light tang and apricot melon flavours. Warm on the throat and a moderate length ending soft. Has a full character evenly divided between texture, spicy depth and soft fruit so delivers overall. Serve well chilled and watch for changes. Will match with Cuban-inspired Cod on Tomatoes tonight - was an excellent match. Cellaring for several years should be OK - didn’t sense too much grass to come forward. 89

HAHN ESTATES CHARDONNAY MONTEREY 2008, Soledad, California, 14.6% D, #234393 $16.95 (Tasted November 14, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: A pale yellow with a faint citrus aroma. A swirl leaves a firm film that‘s slow to shed tiny tears. There’s a reasonable softness and round texture to the first sip, a shallow acid accompanies a leaf and bramble flavour that continues to a long dry finish. Did not pair well with roast chicken with root vegetables and rosemary. Not that interesting as a sipper. Has the tang but lacks sufficient flavour to complement other entrees - perhaps would go with fresh oysters. 81

FINCA FLICHMAN MISTERIO ROSÉ MALBEC-SHIRAZ 2010, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.0% D, #170126 $8.20 (Tasted November 3, 2011) CS
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A General listing. My notes: A raspberry red, clear and bright and an aroma of fresh red cherry and subtle Melba apple gives this appeal for two senses. Serve chilled there’s a silkiness to flavours of a red cherry and raspberry blend, a dryness edged with a suspicion of natural sugar leading into a long finish ending chalk dry. A light hearted beverage for an afternoon social or lo-cal luncheon sipper, before and after, not during unless it‘s warmed Maple syrup on hot waffles. A drink now. 85

CHÂTEAU DE TRINQUEVEDEL TAVEL ROSÉ 2010, Tavel, France, 13.5% XD, #729947 $17.95 (Tasted November 20, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on May 28, 2011. Produced by the Demoulin family from the same sand and pebbly vineyards for four generations.   My notes: The route from Tavel to Aix-en-Provence - charming contryside and countless value wines. A candied cherry red in a tulip glass with a faint cherry nose that presumes some sweetness and a touch of floral. The first sip has enough sharpness to gain immediate attention. A sour cherry flavour has a natural sugary edge and leaves an oil slick on the lips. The finish is smooth throughout with a watermelon and cherry blend set off by a satin dryness. Have as a summer sipper with two maraschino cherries and crushed ice or as an aperitif before a seafood entrée or with crab crêpes. A drink now. 89
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DOMAINE HOUCHART CÔTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ 2010, Aix-en-Provence, France, 13.0% XD, #118653 $13.95 (Tasted November 9, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on September 3, 2011. Produced by Domaine Quiot family from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. A blend of 35% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% other grapes. My notes: A powder puff pink with a salmon blush. A subtle scent of peeled Melba apple and peach. A thin film quickly fragmenting leaving a few isolated islands on the glass. So far, a moderate but positive appeal. The first sip has the smoothness of sprinkled talc, a tang that prickles the tongue and flavour of almost ripe red cherries. A lightish medium-bodied sipper with a lingering allure... and enough there to balance a plate of crispy critters and sweet potato fries. I’d be tempted to cellar this a year or two looking for additional depth. 88
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ANTECH 'EXPRESSION' BRUT CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX 2008, Limoux, France 12.0% XD, #068239 $17.95 (Tasted November 20, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on May 14, 2011 and is made in the traditional method using a blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac (the traditional principal variety of Limoux in Languedoc). My notes: A burst of fine bubbles on pouring with streams of fine bubbles continuing to rise from the glass gives a festive first impression. A light blond colour and a slight pie dough aroma. Bubbles continue to form the rim encouraging a first sip. Serve well chilled for the spritz bite and an extra dry layering, a mineral flavouring, a smooth texture and touch of lime. The finish extends the flavours until declining to a delicate yeasty aftertaste. An oyster partner for sure… or shelled crustaceans on a stick then bbq’d to a pinkish hue. We’re having between bites of chicken Wellingtons and roast butternut squash - just OK - light on complementing flavours. 88
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BRISEBARRE BRUT VOUVRAY NV, Loire, France, 12.5% XD, #226241 $18.95 (Tasted November 15, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on October 1, 2011 and is made in the traditional method using 100% Chenin Blanc. My notes: A touch of pastry dough and a sniff of apple - together it’s subtle apple pie. The initial burst of bubbles subsides quickly leaving streams of tiny ones mysteriously springing from the glass. A mid gold colour and a thin lacy rim sets the start of tasting. A strong spritz on the tongue brightens an initial softness and the flavour of tart apple skins wakes the palate. Have with seafoods, fish or crustaceans, lightly grilled or shrimps with a coconut shell. Cellaring for several years should prove interesting possibly introducing more ‘cream’. Quite refreshing now and for many occasions. 89
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MAUSBERG BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS CRÉMANT D'ALSACE NV, Beblenheim, France, 12.0% XD, #171785 $17.95 (Tasted November 19, 2011) CS
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Release by Vintages on July 23, 2011. My notes: Produced by Cave de Hoen. You can hear the smoothness in the first pour. A burst of fine mousse quickly settling to steady streams. Serve well chilled and let the changes meet your mood - from sharp and metallic to mellow and mallible. The fruit, more nuances that outright flavours, is of melon and apple. The finish is fairly short ending dry with some chalk to go with a mild tang. Have with grilled chicken or seafood. Better to have on a sunny afternoon or with a late breakfast omelette - hold the ketchup. Could have more flavour but it’s Pinot Blanc and Pinot Auxerrois so expect modesty. Keep on hand up to a year. 88
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THE WOLFTRAP ROSÉ 2010, Franschoek, South Africa, 13.5% MD, #169409 $12.95 (Tasted November 7, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on July 9, 2011. Produced by Boekenhoutskloof and a blend of 66% Syrah, 20% Cinsault and 14% Grenache. Rated 88 by Stephen Tanzer of International Wine Cellar (Mar/Apr 2011). My notes: The Wolftrap White 2010 was recommended by Sarah Ahmed (@sarahwine) ‘The Wine Detective, an independent, award-winning wine writer and communicator’ according to her website. The white is no longer available at Vintages so I’ll try their rosé, a similar blend to the southern France roses and a coquettish salmon pink. However, with Mourvèdre missing and higher Syrah content the profile has a spicier nose and flavouring and a lighter body. The sweet is not intrusive and there's a slight herbal edge to a white cherry scent that’s also reflected in the flavour. Medium-bodied with an appealing smoothness and finishing with spice and cherry remnants. An interesting sipper for its different terroir and blending. Introduce as a mystery sipper for an afternoon tasting or have as a prelude to a bouillabaisse or seafood entrée. Cellaring for a few years should be OK. 88

November 2011 Reds: 14 Tasted of 14

2011-11-01T03:00:00.223-04:00


Shore leave

This month I've separated Reds from the rest, Whites+. Hopefully to simplify finding a specific wine and editing. The Intro is repeated in both.

Several factors instigated my collection of wines for November:

My BH had a beautiful Pinot Noir from Oregon when dining with friends. This led to the Chelalem Pinot as well as the Chelalem Pinot Gris purchased for my natal day... and I've added a few more to compare.
Never having used Vintages OnLine service I reviewed the wines they had available. Unsurprisingly most of the offerings were in a much higher price bracket than my budget… one exception was the Sarah Powell Pinot Noir reduced by $10 to $29. Worth a try? I’ll see.
Beppi Crosariol in his article of October 20th gave high 80’s for a few economical wines thus the French Malbec, the BC Cab Merlot and Chilean Syrah were added. This list was expanded to include three Mission Hill’s, four Cono Sur’s and three Argentine’s from the General shelves. I’ve been neglecting the Generals lately due to a focus on Niagara wines.
Four French bubblies, two from Alsace near the border with Germany, one from the west of mid centre, one from the south near the Mediterranean and, while we`re there, a couple of Provence XD rosés, my favourites.

...and thanks for the suggestions in Tweets received.

And a Happy Hallowe'en... Ww

THE LINEUP - reds:

Majella The Musician Cabernet Shiraz 2009, 92-2 -- V, Coonawarra, Australia, #142018 $19.95
Thelema Shiraz 2006, 92-2 -- V, Stellenbosch, South Africa, #146431 $19.95
Cono Sur Reserva Syrah 2008, 91-3 -- G, Colchagua Valley, Chile, #221820 $12.95
Hungerford Hill Fishcage Shiraz 2009, 91-2 -- V, New South Wales, Australia, #077958 $15.95
Chehalem 3 Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008, 91-1 -- V, Willamette Valley, Oregon, #949909 $28.95
Hahn Winery Monterey Pinot Noir 2008, 89-2 -- G, Soledad, California, #226555 $18.95
Georges Vigouroux Pigmentum Malbec 2008, 88-2 -- G, Cahors, France, D 13.5%, #255182 $11.95*
Mission Hill ‘Five Vineyards’ Cabernet Merlot 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, 88-1 -- G, BC, Canada, #145102 $16.45
Prelius Meremma Toscana Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, 88-1 -- V, Tuscany, Italy, #224022 $17.95
Amity Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2007, 87 -- G, Amity, Oregon, #124594 $20.95*
Sarah Powell Windridge Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, 87 -- VOL, McMinnville, Oregon, #076422 *$29.00 (reduced from $39.00)
Liberty School Zinfandel 2008, 86 -- V, Paso Robles, California, #041095 $18.95
Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 82 -- G, Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina, #163949 $8.00
Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Malbec 2010, 82 -- G, Mendoza, Argentina, #028803 $8.20

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, VOL - Vintages OnLine, r-v - Rating-Value, * - See notes)

TASTINGS:

CHEHALEM 3 VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2008, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 13.1% XD, #949909   $28.95 (Tasted November 26, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on September 17, 2011. Harvey Steiman called it a smart buy with a 91 rating (December 31, 2010).   My notes: A blend of grapes from three estate vineyards: Stoller (45%), Corral Creek (30%) and Ridecrest (25%). A see through ruby with a garnet cast and a dusty, delicate blackberry nose after a short airing. Leaves a thin film with an unbroken rim. Swirl and wait ten minutes for the first sip to warm the throat and put down a silky layer for a blend of crushed cherries and blueberries. Mellowing comes with further sipping as the finish dries the palate and flavours change. Acid, tannin and fruit are well balanced and all are delicate. Pair with a tuna steak or grilled halibut, with pork tenderloin or veal - an elegant, not demonstrative, sipper. 91

SARAH POWELL WINDRIDGE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2007, Rogue Valley, McMinnville, Oregon, 13.7% XD, #076422 *$29.00 (reduced from $39.00) (Tasted November 28, 2011) CS

A Vintages OnLine Exclusives Ordered Oct 5 & received Oct 15. The Powell family has elected to continue the Sarah Powell wine label after her premature death (at the age of 41) in 2004. The wines are now made by Laurent Montelieu. My notes: A see-through ruby and subtle aromas difficult to define, a light plum/cherry. A swirl leaves a lacy rim slowly shedding tears and forming jagged islands. The first sip is drying continuing into a warm tannic finish. lightish medium-bodied with flavours of crushed cherry pits that predominate sip and finish. Paired nicely with Roast Duck and Vegetables (a super recipe) not competing with the flavours. Should do OK with tuna steak or a roast turkey with cranberries. Past cellaring likely on the downside. 87

PRELIUS MEREMMA TOSCANA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Tuscany, Italy, 13.5% D, #224022 $17.95 (Tasted November 6, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on July 23, 2011. Rated 89 by Antonio Galloni (August 2010) Organically farmed vines cared for by Federica Mascheroni Stianti, Castello de Volpaia. My notes: Decant or air for a half hour to allow aromas to develop as earthy and spicy black currant. The colour is a rich ruby a deep see through and a swirl gives a firm film shedding a solid rim of slow tears. Furry tannins on the tongue, a red currant flavour and tart acids start the first sip then shift to moderate acid with declining fur and a dry brambly finish. Medium-bodied with no sense of sweet and paired well with roast prime rib with Yorkshire pudds and parsnips. May keep a year or two but primarily a drink now. 88

LIBERTY SCHOOL ZINFANDEL 2008, Paso Robles, California, 13.5% D, #041095   $18.95 (Tasted November 10, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on October 15, 2011. My notes: Tasted the 2007 in July 2010 and rated it 90 altho’ thinking it may be a challenge to pair. The 2008 has a curious scent of herbs and berries adding a mild spice. Lots of dust from pulling the cork and the film is fairly thin fragmenting quickly down to the surface. Medium-bodied, muted flavours of berries, a touch of mushroom, warm and mellowing out to a long dry finish. I’d say a mixed terroir dominates this Zin with a swayed flavour spectrum, not unpleasant, just not fruit dominant. Have with grilled pork, ham steaks or a beef stir-fry. Not much tp gain by cellaring - a pleasing drink now. 86

MAJELLA THE MUSICIAN CABERNET SHIRAZ 2009, Coonawarra, Australia, 14.5% XD, #142018   $19.95 (Tasted November 8, 2011) CS

Release by Vintages on September 3, 2011 and a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon and 43% Shiraz. Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW rated it 91 (October 2010) www.erobertparker .com   My notes: Tasted the 2008 in January this year and rated it 92 but recommended cellaring ‘several years’ rather drinking now and a ‘wine for scotch drinkers’. The 2009 has the same rich ruby colour and leaves a firm film with a solid rim shedding columns of slow moving tears. This is both spicy and smooth, intense aromas of black currants and mild pepper with a welcoming warmth of a southern sun. The first sip comes in a metal wrap and continues bone dry, warm and ends with an acerbic touch. More moderate than the 2008 but still a full-bodied flavourful sipper. Pair with seasoned grilled meats, domesticated or wild. Eligible for cellaring several years. 92
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GEORGES VIGOUROUX PIGMENTUM MALBEC 2008, Cahors, France, D 13.5%, #255182 $11.95* (Tasted November 13, 2011) CS

A General listing and reduced from $13.95. Rated 87 by Beppi Crosariol. My notes: There’s a purple tint to a dense ruby and an herbal scent to aromas of stewed plums. A swirl sets a firm film that sheds columns of slow tears from a solid rim. Medium- to full bodied, a thin tannin for dryness and subtle spice with mild flavours of black berries and light tobacco. The finish is true to the first sip continuing until a dry palate. A welcoming sipper with a good balance of fruit, acid and subtle process. Cellaring for several years would work but drinking well now. A rack of lamb and thou... super! 88

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CONO SUR RESERVA SYRAH 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #221820 $12.95 (Tasted November 21, 2011) CS

A General listing. Rated 89 by Beppi Crosariol. My notes: A smooth rim with long fast legs tells the tale of a silky texture. A garnet toned ruby and a nose that is reserved being nicely balanced between spice and blackberry with a touch of tobacco. The first sip confirms ‘silk’, a nice fullness showing a soft tannin, a delicate berry fruit and subtle spice. An excellent sipper for an open bar and good social company or have with grilled beef, rack of lamb or short ribs - that kind of red. Quaff for a sensual treat. Cellaring for several years is still there. 91
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THELEMA SHIRAZ 2006, Helshoogtze, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 14.5% XD, #146431   $19.95 (Tasted November 22, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on June 11, 2011. Rated 92 by James Molesworth, www.winespectator.com (April 30, 2010).   My notes: A garnet cast deep ruby colour with berry and spicy plum aromas. The film sticks well staying until a few long columns fall slowly. Smooth, full tannins, spicy bite and ripened berry compote flavours make this a very attractive sipper for those liking full-bodied and warm. The finish keeps true to the varietal carrying a softness along with a light and spicy flavouring. Five years in the bottle and showing very well… perhaps another five years in the cellar? More of an Australian shiraz in character but not as ‘in your face’. Have with anything grilled and meaty. 92

MISSION HILL 'FIVE VINEYARDS' CABERNET MERLOT 2009 VQA Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada, 13.5% D, #145102 $16.45 (Tasted November 17, 2011) CS

A General listing. Rated 88 by Beppi Crosariol. My notes: An ebony cast ruby colour, dense in the glass. The nose has the softness of fresh blueberries and the warm and woody spice of black berries. The film sheds long tears quickly while the rim fragments into jagged islands. Soft, spice, earth and black fruit come through on the first sip warming the throat and leaving prominent flavours on the palate. Interesting for its change from sip to savour - medium-bodied and dry. Perhaps a touch of mineral at the end offsets the fruit but adds to its interest as well. May not improve with cellaring for a few years but likely won’t lessen its appeal. 88

AMITY VINEYARDS WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2007, Amity, Oregon, 12.5% D, #124594 $20.95* (Tasted November 3, 2011) CS

A General listing reduced from *$24.95 until Nov 6, 2011. My notes: This Pinot is a see through red and, after airing a short while, has a balanced flavour blend of spicy blackberries and raspberries. A swirl brings a solid rim that fragments into columns of slow tears, a few to begin then more. Light-bodied, smooth, dry tannins, a respectable tang and light fruit start a sip - quaff for more prominence. Pork tenderloin slices with soya seasoned rice and spicy salsa suited this red’s calming influence. Cellaring a short time should be doable but near peak - going or coming? Almost a value at the lower price. 87

HAHN WINERY PINOT NOIR MONTEREY 2008, Soledad, California, 14.5% D, #226555 $18.95 (Tasted November 13, 2011) CS
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A General listing. My notes: A black cherry red and a scent of black cherry drenched in an old port, warm and fruity. The film leaves a solid rim shedding slow tears. Silky, dry, a light flavour of black cherries wrapped in tang and finishing lightish of medium-body with extended acid ending dry and flavourful. Have as a sipper with a buffet of hors d’oeuvres: bacon bits on French toasts, sausage pieces and dips, stuffed mushrooms, etc. Worth cellaring a few more years. A flexible performer as an all-round pinot - bound to please. 89
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HUNGERFORD HILL FISHCAGE SHIRAZ 2009, New South Wales, Australia, 14.5% D, #077958 $15.95 (Tasted November 12, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on October 29, 2011. My notes: A purple ruby, regal and dense, swirling a rim that cascades columns of slow tears as well as fragmenting into lacy islands. The nose has a whisper of barnyard dissipating quickly and a spicy aroma of subdued blackberries. The first sip brightens the whole mouth with a tangy silk, warming the throat then laying out a dryness that carries through a long bramble finish. A pleasing and interesting mouthwash. Have with bbq’d ribs, back or side, preferably beef, a tasty stew or shank of lamb. Cellaring for several years is likely - I’d go year by year. 91
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FINCA FLICHMAN   MISTERIO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.0% D, #163949 $8.00 (Tasted November 1, 2011) CS
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A General listing and a Finca Flichman wine. My notes: Let air twenty minutes for aroma and flavours to settle - or disregard the first couple of sips. There’s a mild scent of black berries and smoke from a see-through garnet ruby. The film is smooth and runs fast legs from an unbroken rim. Medium-bodied, smooth with firm tannins and a tart tang that frame a touch of blackberries, earthy tobacco and liquorice - well balanced but could use more fruit and depth to increase sip appeal. Have with meat lover’s pizza or a grilled striploin. A drink now for a low budget cash bar or a restaurant with a 3.5X markup. 82
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FINCA FLICHMAN MISTERIO MALBEC 2010, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.0% D, #028803 $8.20 (Tasted November 15, 2011) CS
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A General listing. My notes: A thin film with a lacy rim that edges down the glass and a pleasing berry aroma. There’s a slight purple cast to the ruby colour, fairly dense but clean and clear in a bright light. The first sip is medium-bodied with overripe berries, a firm tannin with high acid then drops quickly to a dry bramble finish. Acceptable but a tad rough if you ‘keep sipping’. Pair with lightly grilled meats, hamburgers or pizzas with a Perrier afterward to reset the palate. An economical drink now. 82

The Taste of History

2011-10-26T16:31:00.002-04:00

Mt Cook April '03

It occurred to me that, generally speaking, each wine region of the world has a whole set of winemaking practises, tools and wine styles that have evolved and are being passed on generation after generation. Some regions have legislated blends, specific grape growing areas, down to even the closure to be used.

Throughout Europe there’s a long history of vine grooming, of maintaining the soil and vineyard orientation to capitalize on seasonal changes along with an accumulation of inherited rituals for grape selection, pressing and fermentation that ultimately lead to one thing… the ‘taste’ of their wines. Although still responding to world markets Europe has essentially stabilized. Their wines are known around the world by their taste. They have history.

As vine growers and winemakers migrated around the world, continent after continent and country after country, regional histories of plantings and wine production had their beginning. Each of these regions can now look back and examine their history that has some commonality but also is unique to their place and time. The taste of their wines reflect this. They have history.

Local wines, up to the 70’s, unfortunately were noted for their inferiority on the world stage. Thankfully a lot has transpired since then. But what are the factors that contributed so positively to improvements in the industry that produced the prize winners of the late 90’s. Was it the foresight of pioneer grape growers that uprooted domestic vines planting varietals that matured in that period? Was it the sons and daughters followed by grandchildren venturing into this new crop learning their craft by hands-on, by University training or by apprenticing themselves to established wineries acquiring the know-how as winemakers on home ‘estates’? Has it been the amateur brewer applying winekit formulas on a commercial scale? Has it been the airlifted winemakers from other regions of the world … and by the success that each of these transplant-ees have been in applying their craft to local climates and soils? Perhaps another influential element has been local entrepreneurial spirit willing to dabble in new, borrowed or bought wineries bringing with their investment new methods and equipment? Has the higher production capacities, blending of offshore wines or excess local grapes as marketed by Corporate consolidations added their effect? What has constituted our history and ultimately the character of today’s wines?

Taste the choice of oak: barrels, barriques or chips …the choice of clones, vine or yeast …viticulture options, conventional to biodynamic? ...variations based on localized old-world or new-world processes, and variations based on European ‘standards‘ or to address perceived market niches? Perhaps too often do you not sense more than a nuance of something neither fruit nor terroir, something unnatural or chemical? Will these variations authenticate local wine styles?

I believe the answer is ‘Yes' …and it’s continuing to evolve under the detrimental effect of our monopolistic marketing system.

Only in Fairy Tales!

My view is based on the breadth of characteristics I’ve tasted in local wines - more noticeable at lower price points. Rather than converging, this latitude appears to be expanding each year as more players, from opportunists to idealists, enter the fray. The taste of our history is in our local wines.

Eventually the idealists fade - ego and optimism lose to capability. The dedicated premium wines competing with premium imports, given inflated import prices and a loyal following, will succeed. The middle tier will continue to keep their heads above with seasonal tourism and LCBO promos. A portion, the beverage wines, of the lower tier will expand offerings competing favourably with overseas labels as the LCBO increases import prices. Local wineries will find the flavour preference of the Ontario consumers and compete with our and foreign conglomerates - both will be successful. And Yes, everyone is 'doing their best'.

The LCBO is part of the industry and must be included in its history. Its impact is greater than any other influence. Under a profit (tax) motivated system the opportunistic investor has a distinct advantage selling beverages that are entertaining in appearance and with a flavour profile suited to an Ontario consumer accustomed to inferior imports. A free marketing system would put the industry on a competitive base, one which would return higher revenues with lower prices and along the way produce a higher standard and broader diversity of wines - but this is nowhere in sight. And so this is where we are today. Aisle after aisle of manufactured wines and a small section of ’fine’ wines at high prices both competing with inflated imports with no way to break the cycle.

The taste of our history unfolds predictably.

My view anyway .... Ww

PS. On a related issue... For an outline of the onerous process wine sources must tolerate to gain a LCBO listing Michael Pinkus describes the experience in his OntarioWineReview Newsletter - 169.

There's always room for one more...

Un morceau de l'histoire: Moet & Chandon

2011-10-26T11:40:00.017-04:00

In case you missed it and are interested, this tasting of a 100 yearold Moet & Chandon 1911 Champagne was taped by Konrad Ejbich in Toronto's Distillery District on October 21, 2011.

Thanks to Konrad (@WineZone) for preserving this piece of Champagne history.

You may also be amused by the comments in response to Beppi's column in the Globe & Mail, same subject, on October 26th.

Cheers, Ww

October 2011 Wines: 31 Tasted of 31

2011-10-01T09:22:00.115-04:00

This is partly a follow-up of the last LCBO glossy I received titled ' Local TASTES BETTER '. After searching for wines from the glossy that were previously blogged here I've chosen alternatives:

Two chardonnays: one from Flat Rock Cellars (Twenty Mile Bench) and one from Château des Charmes (St. David's Bench)
Two Divas (white & red) from Legend Estates (Lincoln Lakeshore) - part of the proceeds goes to the Women’s Place in Southern Niagara
A Riesling (Vinemount Ridge) from a virtual winery operated by Charles Baker and released under his name. The riesling is produced from grapes of a specific vineyard and the facilities at Stratus winery. Above my usual budget but thoroughly enjoyed with dinner at the Stone Road Grill in July.
A Red, White and Rosé (Niagara-on-the-Lake) from Southbrook Vineyards an Ontario leader in Organic and Biodynamic viticulture.
A red and two rieslings from an admitted megalomaniac, John Howard. I haven't found any ‘organic’ let alone ‘biodynamic’ interest on his website. The wines listed have bare descriptions.

I've picked some of October's Lineup for comparison, ie. grape to grape and $ to $.

... and Canada's Thanksgiving occurs this month as well as that all important day, my natal day. I'll have to pick something special for both happenings.

Cheers, Ww

THE LINEUP - grouped by reds, whites, rosés, sparkles and other:

Diva Malbec-Merlot 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 92-3 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #179135 $13.95*
Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Carignane 2009, 92-2 -- V, Sonoma, California, #032177 $19.95
Hickinbotham Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, 91-2 -- V, South Australia, #159632 $15.95
Louis Bernard Gigondas 2008, 89-1 -- V, Rhône, France, #222596 $19.95
J.P. Chenet Premier de Cuvée Merlot Cabernet 2009, 88-2 -- G, Landiras, France, #621995 $11.95
Stoney Ridge Estate Winery ‘Warren Classic’ Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 88-2 -- G, Vineland, Ontario, #156125 $14.95
J.P. Chenet ‘Limited Release' Pinot Noir 2010, 86-1 -- G, Landiras, France, #142406 $11.95
Errazuriz Estate Pinot Noir 2009, 86-1 -- G, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #226696 $13.95
Château de LaFaurie-Monbadon Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2006, 86 -- G, Gironde, France, #140012 $15.00
Rose Hill ‘Private Edition’ Cabernet Merlot 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 79 -- G, Markham, Ontario, #146779 $13.05
Megalomaniac Homegrown ‘Cellar 4379’ 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 78 -- G, Vineland, Ontario, #260364 $16.95
Southbrook Organic Connect Red 2008 VQA Niagara on the Lake, 76 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #249565 $14.95

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Stratus Riesling 2008 VQA Vinemount Ridge, 93-2 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #126433 $35.20
Cave Spring 'Dolomite' Riesling 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, 92-3 -- O, Jordan, Ontario, #Winery $17.15
Concha Y Toro ‘Trio’ Chardonnay Pinot Grigio Pinot Blanc Reserva 2009, 90-2 -- V, Casablanca Valley, Chile, #433938 $12.95
Graham Beck ‘The Game Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 89-2 -- V, Franschhoek, S. Africa, #205856 $14.95
Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 89-2 -- V, Darling, South Africa, #235895 $14.95
St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc 2009, 89-1 -- V, Napa Valley, California, #339663 $18.95
Giesen 'The Brothers' Sauvignon Blanc2009, 89-1 -- V, Marlborough, NZ, #247213 $19.95
Château des Charmes 'St. David's Bench Vineyard' Chardonnay 2007 VQA St. David's Bench, 88-1 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #430991 $16.50
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, 85 -- V, Jordan, Ontario, #681247 $16.95
Megalomaniac Homegrown ‘Cellar 4379' Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 84 -- G, Vineland, Ontario, #183061 $12.95
Diva Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, 84 -- G, Beamsville, Ontario, #179143 $14.95
Megalomaniac ‘Edra’s Vineyard’ Narcissist Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, 81 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #067587 $17.95
Southbrook Organic Connect White Vidal 2010 VQA Niagara on the Lake, 75 -- G, NOTL, Ontario, #249078 $14.95

Domaine Lafage Parfum de Vignes Rosé 2010, 90-2 -- V, Roussillon, France, #167528 $13.95
Château la Tour de l’Évêque Rosé 2010, 88-1 -- V, Provence, France, #319392 $18.95
Southbrook Organic Connect Rosé 2010 VQA Niagara on the Lake, 86 -- V, NOTL, Ontario, #168492 $18.95

Tenuta S. Anna Extra Dry Prosecco NV, 90-2 -- V, Veneto, Italy, #169128 $15.95
Cave Spring Blanc de Blanc Brut NV VQA Niagara Escarpment, 85 -- G, Jordan, Ontario, #213983 $29.95
Vineland Estate Winery Reserve Brut 2008 VQA Ontario, 84 -- V, Vineland, Ontario, #039495 $19.95

(G - General Listing, V - Vintages, r-v - Rating-Value)

TASTINGS:

DIVA MALBEC-MERLOT 2007 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Beamsville, Ontario, 13.0% D, #179135   $13.95* (Tasted October 17, 2011) CS

A General listing and the red twin to the Sémillon-SB listed below. A Legends Estate product with *part of the proceeds going to Women's Place of South Niagara. My notes: This has a deep mahogany colour with intense aroma of blended vanilla and black cherry, warm and worth lingering over. A film sticks then fragments from a lacy rim, columns run into island clusters. The first sip is full-bodied, evenly balanced tannins, acid and flavours - a pleasing sipper especially when combined with the nose. The finish lasts forever finally ending with a taste of black cherry and a layer of dryness. Perhaps cellaring would soften a slight raw edge altho’ it’s drinking well now - why wait? Have with rack of lamb, beef bourguignon or prime rib roast. 92

DIVA SEMILLON-SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Beamsville, Ontario, 12.5% D, #179143 $14.95 (Tasted October 4, 2011) CS

A General listing and part of the 'Local TASTES BETTER' promotion. A Legends Estate product with *part of the proceeds going to Women's Place of South Niagara. My notes: Crystal clean in the glass with a soft lime blond colour. A thin film fragments quickly from the rim shedding tiny slow tears and the nose is of freshly crushed gooseberries quickly dissipating. Light-bodied and a taste of lime and fresh gooseberry with its dry tang refreshes the taste buds and leaves everything clean for the next sip - no sweetness to my buds. Have with fresh seafood appetizers/entrées or baked brie on crisps. Not for cellaring - a social drink now and doesn't last overnight when opened. 84

CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD STRATUS RIESLING 2008 VQA Vinemount Ridge, NOTL, Ontario, 10.5% D, #126433 $35.20 (Tasted October 25, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on April 30, 2011. My notes: Charles Baker uses the Picone vineyard and the Stratus facilities to produce this Riesling. A pale golden blond, crystal clear in the glass with a delectable aroma of tropical fruit - a refined petrol as well?. The film sticks firmly until the lacy edge recedes evenly - a few slow tears. Serve well chilled for changes as it warms, the nose being consistent. The first sip is crisp and dry, full, lemon and lime, with a long dry finish and some chalk at the end. A super complement with jumbo Tiger shrimp (16-20) with Angel’s Hair in a spicy orange tomato Vodka sauce. Also great paired with antipasto. The suspicion of petrol could develop with cellaring, five years perhaps. 93


FLAT ROCK CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Jordan, Ontario, 11.9% XD, #681247 $16.95 (Tasted October 10, 2011) CS

A Vintages release date was not given. My notes: There’s a hint of green in a polished golden wheat colour and there’s a grassiness to fresh lemon aroma, both subtle to the nose. A swirl lays a thin film that fragments into lacy islands as it falls, no legs or tears. The first sip has a smooth texture and a hollow flavour mostly of lemon, some lime that’s retained over a brief finish ending with a lime softness. The subdued fruit makes this more of a meal white than a sipper - have with a Boston lettuce salad with blueberries and raspberries, a drizzle of white balsamic vinegar and oil or pair with fried tilapia and melted cheddar over asparagus spears. Not for the cellar - a mild drink now. 85

CONCHA Y TORO 'TRIO' CHARDONNAY PINOT GRIGIO PINOT BLANC RESERVA 2009, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 13.5% XD, #433938 $12.95 (Tasted October 8, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on September 3, 2011. Rated 88 by Tom Cannavan (2010) www.wine-pages.com . My notes: The 2004 vintage, same price, was tasted in January 2006 with good results (before ratings) and noted ‘better with food‘. The blend is unchanged as 70% Chardonnay, 15% PG and 15% PB. The colour is golden and polished so it glistens in the glass. The nose has aromas of lime, lemongrass and light honey. A swirl leaves a thick film that quickly forms long legs changing to slow tears. The first sip combines a soft tang, delicate honey textured citrus, a drying texture and a finish that carries all to a long and clean conclusion. Served chilled the nose, flavours and finish remain consistent until off chill. A great blend for casual sipping, with hors d‘oeuvres or for a meal of light pork, turkey, chicken or creamy seafood pastas. Will keep a few years but basically a drink now. 90
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TENUTA S. ANNA EXTRA DRY PROSECCO NV, Veneto, Italy, 11.5% XD, #169128 $15.95 (Tasted October 19, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on July 23, 2011. My notes: Everything comes together with this bubbly when it’s well chilled: bursts of bubbles, a keen carbonated nip, a smooth texture, a flavour of lemon/lime icing thinly wrapped in a subtle sweetness and the scent of baked apples. The colour is a pale blond tinted green and tiny bubbles take over from bursts to provide a lively spritz throughout sipping. A crowd pleaser for any occasion, with tentacle-d appetizers or an alternative to a still white with seafood. Cellar a year but at this price keep several on hand for when the festivities start. 90

GIESEN 'THE BROTHERS' SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Marlborough, NZ, 13.0% XD, #247213   $19.95 (Tasted October 17, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on September 3, 2011. Rated 90 by Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, (Oct 2010) www.erobertparker.com My notes: A pale golden blond colour and aromas that say ‘I’m kiwi!’ - crushed gooseberries with a softness that denies the hidden tang that comes out in the first sip. Nose declines quickly. Tangy, subtle gooseberries rather than pronounced, extra dry on the tongue and lasting a fair time ’til a tangy end. This went very well with Tilapia filets with basalmic sauce and sugar snap peas quenching the thirst while exchanging flavours. Should last a few years in the cellar but a drink now. 89

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES 'ST. DAVID'S BENCH VINEYARD' CHARDONNAY 2007 VQA St. David's Bench, NOTL, Ontario, 14.0% D, #430991   $16.50 (Tasted October 12, 2011) CS
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The Vintages release date is not available. My notes: This has a light golden blond colour, clean and crisp. There’s a soft, delicate scent of quince needing just a few minutes to develop in a chilled glass. Sipping off chill lets both the nose and flavours develop - quaffing accentuates a honey - quince combination. A few sips asserts the tartness that pairs well with grilled East Coast salmon crusted with lightly flavoured Panko crumbs. Well balanced, a sweetness is just detectable and there's a mineral aspect with some residual fruit on the finish. Didn't get the warmth of 14%. I’d be tempted to cellar a few more years to see where it goes. An interesting drink-now when given patience to reveal itself. 88

SOUTHBROOK ORGANIC CONNECT RED 2008 VQA Niagara on the Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 12.6% D, #249565   $14.95 (Tasted October 10, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: An aroma of stewed raisins and bitter chocolate as well as the dark hued ruby colour suggests a red of an earlier Niagara. The first sip is on the light side of medium-body having an acerbic bite and harsh flavours of unripe red cherries and leaving a tannic, sour cherry aftertaste. The flavours did not pair well with an entrée of veal and beef meatloaf with a mushroom and cherry tomato side - a near tooth cleaner by itself. The combination of tart and a brine taint is unappealing. Not for cellaring. The remainder of the bottle was discarded. 76

SOUTHBROOK ORGANIC CONNECT WHITE VIDAL 2010 VQA Niagara on the Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 9.6% MS, #249078   $14.95 (Tasted October 13, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: A pale blond colour with little aroma for a nose, perhaps an orange scent in the background. There’s a thin film with an uneven rim that recedes quickly returning to the bowl and for a first sip, a soft texture with a shallow orange taste with a slight acid that becomes the remaining aspect of a short finish. A conservative thirst quencher softer than a flavoured Perrier and without the spritz. Have on a hot summer afternoon by itself or with a few lemon slices or bowl of fruit. 75

SOUTHBROOK ORGANIC CONNECT ROSÉ 2010 VQA Niagara on the Lake, NOTL, Ontario, 12.2% D, #168492 $18.95 (Tasted October 18, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on May 28, 2011. My notes: A red cherry colour with tinge of peach and a film that cascades for a short while before shedding slow tears. The nose is a peach apple combination that slowly develops in the glass, includes even a fuzz (a noticeable softness). The flavour on the tongue is watermelon, sweet cherries and red currants with some dryness balancing a smooth texture. A medium-bodied sipper to have at an afternoon gathering on the patio or sitting at a south facing window table at your favourite bistro on an early afternoon. A Niagara style party beverage and a drink now. 86

J.P. CHENET 'LIMITED RELEASE' PINOT NOIR 2010, Landiras, France, 12.5% D, #142406   $11.95 (Tasted October 6, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: The 2008 vintage was tasted in September 2010 and rated 84. By comparison this is a notch up on nose, texture and flavour. There’s a smooth unbroken film shedding slow legs from a solid rim. The colour is a deep ruby and nose is faint with deep aromas of a light cherry blackberry. Smooth, nicely balanced texture, acid and fruit showing a hollow middle then ending very dry on the lips. The fruit is a moderate cherry berry. An acceptable sipper as a open bar option. Serve with bacon and proscuitto wrapped asparagus or a meatlovers pizza. A drink now altho’ could cellar a year or possibly two. 86

J. P. CHENET PREMIER DE CUVÉE MERLOT CABERNET 2009, Landiras, France, 13.5% D, #621995 $11.95 (Tasted October 5, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes:Previously labelled ‘Founders Reserve’ the 2007 vintage was tasted with a rating of 89 in December 2008. Perhaps a tad thinner than previously but with the same whiff of berry in the nose and a granite hued ruby colour. The film slowly fragments into islands with some slow tears showing. A silky texture with a currant tinted berry flavour that makes for a pleasant just offdry sipper. A warm fruit residual stays for a time before ending softly with some tannin on the palate. Won’t blow anyone’s socks off but is an economical drink now - a workhorse with hamburgers, pizzas, etc. etc. and may cellar for a year or two. 88

ST. SUPÉRY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Napa Valley, California, 13.7% XD, #339663 $18.95 (Tasted October 5, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on July 23, 2011. My notes: The back label claims 'sustainably farmed'. The website www.stsupery.com . There’s a whiff of gooseberry and honeydew in the nose and a colour that has a remnant of golden blond. A thin film holds a lacy rim until gradually separating into ragged islands. A soft texture to the first sip highlighted by an acerbic tang and flavours of lime, honeydew and gooseberry that together make an interesting sipper - a similar style to NZ but with emphasis on lime and melon with gooseberry coming in third. Pairing with seafood entrées would be suitable or just sipping with good company. Cellar up to four years. 89
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CHÂTEAU LA TOUR DE L'ÉVÊQUE ROSÉ 2010, Pierrefeu-du-Var, France, 13.5% XD, #319392 $18.95 (Tasted October 23, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on June 25, 2011. A blend of eight grapes the main being Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, the remainder being Rolle, Semillon, Ugni-Blanc, Cab Sauv and Mourvedre. The Chateau's website says 'our vineyards adhere to the rules of Organic agriculture'. My notes: The 2009 vintage was tasted in August 2010 and rated 86. This has a bright peach-rose colour and a subtle scent of cherry pie. A generous well chilled sip has the acerbic abruptness of red currants. The finish is extra dry on the lips with a chalky currant aftertaste and there’s a pleasing fullness when quaffed. Have with lightly battered fish & chips or grilled tilapia/snapper and mashed potatoes running with melted butter - a fish wine. A drink now. 88

DOMAINE LAFAGE PARFUM DE VIGNES ROSÉ 2010, Perpignan, France, 13.0% XD, #167528 $13.95 (Tasted October 2, 2011) CS

A Vintages release on June 25, 2011. A traditional blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Carignan. My notes: Winner of a silver medal at a Paris 2011 competition. Other than ‘minimal intervention’ there is little information on their website to indicate ’natural’ or ’organic’ viticulture. The colour is rose petal soft and a hue the sunny side of a peach. In fact, softness is everywhere: flavour, nose and texture leaving the palate wrapped in velour. The finish contradicts the full berry watermelon flavours that slowly mellow out taking on a hint of liquorice at the end. An interesting sipper from first to last. A summer party favourite with a cheese tray, baked brie or tasty brioche. Cellaring for several years should be OK - not sure where it would improve tho’. 90

CHÂTEAU DE LAFAURIE-MONBADON GRAND VIN DE BORDEAUX 2006, Gironde, France, 13.0% XD, #140012 $15.00 (Tasted October 24, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on October 1, 2011. My notes: A Baron de Montfort wine. A moody ruby, ie. a dense ruby with a garnet cast. The nose is earthy black currant and berry, spicy on the outside. The film suggests a silky texture which when you get past the sharpness it is. The first sip has flavours of blackberry, distinct liquorice ending with a smack of tannins all raising attention to the wine versus the meal, in this case, roast lamb with leeks and mashed sweet potato and carrots - an interesting switch. Likely on the decline I’d say cellaring is past due, a sipper if you prefer extra dry oldworld, more of a meal red. 86

ROSE HILL 'PRIVATE EDITION' CABERNET MERLOT 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Markham, Ontario, 13.0% D, #146779 $13.05 (Tasted October 3, 2011) CS

A General listing and, according to the LCBO, made by Cellaria Winery Inc. of Markham Ontario. My notes: The Rose Hill website does not name the vineyards as the source of their grapes - nice photos though. This red is a garnet hued ruby with a silky film that gradually falls into lacy patterns. The nose given time to develop is a just perceptible woody berry. The first sip cleanses the palate leaving it stinging followed by a subtle flavour of berry and currant then a short unchanging finish. A thin medium-bodied, well balanced sipper with a simple character and an absence of freshness. Decant or let air for an hour. A passable accompaniment to lightly grilled meats - perhaps a proscuitto and mozzarella thin crust pizza or Italian meatball spaghetti dish. A classic label. Not for cellaring. 79

ERRAZURIZ ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2009, Casablanca Valley, Chile, 13.5% D, #226696 $13.95 (Tasted October 12, 2011) CS
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A General listing. My notes: A see through ruby with a swirl giving long columns of fast legs from a solid rim. Almost negligible aromas perhaps a slight nutmeg and faint strawberry. A lightish medium-bodied, silky on the first sip, a delicate flavour of cherry and strawberry either just distinguishable and a finish that’s displays delicate tannin on the tongue with a whisper of tang. The texture carries the day with this pinot - it sets up balanced acid and flavours making this an interesting sipper. A plate of grilled liver and onions, rabbit with fettuccine in a white wine sauce or roasted chicken pieces and steamed veggies could be a complement. Not for cellaring - drinking well now. 86

STONEY RIDGE ESTATE WINERY 'WARREN CLASSIC' PINOT NOIR 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 12.8% D, #156125 $14.95 (Tasted October 20, 2011) CS

A General listing. My notes: The 2006 vintage ($12.00) tasted in May 2010 and rated 87 was also labelled ‘25th Anniversary release’. Decant or air for a few hours. The colour is a deep garnet cast see-through ruby and the light nose has elements of cut tobacco, mushroom, and berry/straw and black. The film runs a lacy rim gradually shifting to long slow columns. Mellow flavours of crushed berries/straw and black, with fine tannins and dry acid taking prominence as the fruit fades lending some earthy anise to an interesting finish. A sipper for most and a grilled red meat red for more. Ham steak, roast pork, tuna, meat lovers pizza are all candidates until you find your favourite combination. There’s a raw edge that could benefit from a few years cellaring but quite drinkable now. 88

CLINE 'ANCIENT VINES' CARIGNANE 2009, Sonoma, California, 14.5% D, #032177   $19.95 (Tasted October 8, 2011) CS
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Released by Vintages on September 3, 2011. My notes: This has a dense black ruby colour with a subtle aroma of smoky cranberry. The film sticks to the glass with a solid rim and quickly runs slow legs. Silky smooth, full with a bright tang and a warmth that spreads over the palate eventually leaving the mouth dry and awake - cranberry changing to cherry cordial then round and woody at the end. An all-round red: have alone, with bacon or Manchurian sirloin strips or T-bone or Prime rib. Cellaring for several years is likely integrating some of the heat and tang but drinking well now. 92

VINELAND ESTATE WINERY RESERVE BRUT 2008 VQA Ontario, Vineland, Ontario 11.0% D, #039495 $19.95 (Tasted October 16, 2011) CS

No release date given. My notes:  Charmat Method. This has a light blond colour and effervesces on the first pour, lots of bubbles all sizes. Streams of tiny bubbles last only a short while and quiesces to a filling spritz. No nose and dry with just a suspicion of sugar on the first sip with grapefruit and apple flavours, well blended and subtle. Have as an aperitif or between spoonfuls of bouillabaisse filled with little creatures. A thirst quencher during speeches or between bridge hands - anytime you’re thirsting. A drink now. 84

HICKINBOTHAM SHIRAZ/CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009, South Australia, 14.5% XD, #159632 $15.95 (Tasted October 26, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on October 1, 2011. Rated 91 (December 2010) by Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW www.erobertparket.com My notes: The 2008 vintage was tasted in November 2010 and rated 90 with a note to cellar 5 - 10 years or decant overnight. A sip was acerbic and the finish long and hot. I suggest airing the 2009 a short time, an hour, or decant to allow aromas and flavours to settle. There’s a earthy scent of plum, black currant and raspberry on the nose. The film sticks immediately shedding columns of fast legs from a solid rim. The dense royal ruby colour has some brightness at the rim and the first sip is smooth as silk with warmth, flavours of red currant, raspberry and wood shavings - enticing. The sip ends with pronounced tannins, dry, retaining some red currant. A full-bodied sipper now with an interesting future if cellared several to five years. Have with rack of lamb, prime rib or grilled Italian sweet or hot sausage. 91

MEGALOMANIAC HOMEGROWN 'CELLAR 4379' 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 13.0% D, #260364 $16.95 (Tasted October 13, 2011)   CS

A General release and a wine from John Howard Cellars of Distinction . My notes: Decant and air for an hour. There’s a hint of crushed raspberries in the nose - a swirl leaves a thin film that quickly fragments into lacy islands - the colour is a deep see-through ruby. Steely edged woody berry flavours dominate the first sip and quickly leave the palate starting with a smooth, almost oily, then changing to a long, dry mouthfeel followed by a flat finish. A metallic profile persists throughout the tasting making this, for me, not a natural sipper. Should be OK with braised Italian sweet or hot sausage or have with sliced chorizo sausage with pasta in a spicy tomato sauce. Not for cellaring. 78

MEGALOMANIAC HOMEGROWN 'CELLAR 4379' RIESLING 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 10.5% MS, #183061 $12.95 (Tasted October 4, 2011) CS

A General release and a wine from John Howard Cellars of Distinction. My notes: A light blond colour and a thin film that quickly laces the glass. The nose suggests a purity of process essentially leaving flavour and texture to speak for terroir. More than a suspicion of sweetness in the first sip along with some lime, a light chalk and an acid that peaks pleasantly before subsiding to a moderately long, mild, lime finish, light-bodied. An interesting before dinner white, if you like sweet, with meagre varietal highlights or to offer as a social sipper with oysters or party cheese tray. A limited meal white and more of a drink now. 84

MEGALOMANIAC 'EDRA'S VINEYARD' NARCISSIST RIESLING 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, Vineland, Ontario, 11.0% MS, #067587 $17.95 (Tasted October 26, 2011) CS

Release by Vintages without a date and is a wine from John Howard Cellars of Distinction. My notes: Very little on the website to describe the wines - almost an affront, ‘You should ask?’ A very clean blond with a green tint and a just perceptible nose of delicate floral - dissipates quickly. The tangy first sip has grapefruit and lime flavours lightly rounded with some chalk dryness. The finish is short ending with chalk and moderate citrus. The flavours build on the palate. A quaffer for a social gatherings, goes down nicely with buffet fare. Pair with whitefish lightly grilled or seared scallops/shrimp. Long on appeal - short on character. 81

CAVE SPRING BLANC DE BLANC BRUT NV VQA Niagara Escarpment, Jordan, Ontario, 12.0% D, #213983 $29.95 (Tasted October 15, 2011) CS

A General listing and a sparkler using the Traditional Method. My note: A light blond colour with a burst of varied sized bubbles that subside quickly to many fine streams lasting briefly. The spritz remains strong with dry and tart flavours of grassy citrus and yeast. There’s a delicate softness balancing the mineral dryness in each sip lending itself to complement fresh oysters or buffet favours. Paired with a Swiss Chalet chicken dinner cut the sauces nicely. The cutting tang and mineral note continued through a moderate finish. A drink now. 85

SPICE ROUTE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Darling, South Africa, 13.5% XD, #235895   $14.95 (Tasted October 18, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on September 17, 2011 and a Charles Back and The Spice Route Team wine. My notes: A pale golden blond with a hint of green and a film that sticks then sheds long tears from a increasingly lacy rim. The nose has a grassy edge to moderate aromas of crushed gooseberries. Serve chilled and let warm slightly for best sipping. The first sip is clean, lemon and grapefruit with some gooseberry still prominent but tempered a tad and ends with a chalk dry finish. An interesting sipper - kept me sipping to refresh the tart fruitiness. Should be great with any seafood dishes or roasted chicken or turkey. Cellaring is indefinite - may not improve but would keep for a few years. 89

LOUIS BERNARD GIGONDAS 2008, Rhône, France, 13.5% D, #222596 $19.95 (Tasted October 24, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on June 25, 2011. My notes:Decant or wait an hour before serving to let the nose change from herbal to earthy dark fruit with a slight mint aroma. A see-through garnet ruby, medium-bodied with a film that sticks then falls from a lacy rim. The first sip stings the throat as flavours of red cherry syrup spreads pleasantly then leaves a soft tannin for a dry, tangy ending returning to herbal. The full profile makes this an interesting sipper and should complement any grilled meat entrée. Not likely to develop further if cellared but I’d try five years, uncorking in two to see where it’s going. 89

GRAHAM BECK ‘THE GAME RESERVE’ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Franschhoek, S. Africa, 13.0% XD, #205856   $14.95 (Retasted October 29, 2011) CS

Released by Vintages on March 19, 2011 and tasted in April this year. My notes: Much the same as the last tasting: a light blond with a thin film showing fast tears. The texture has a soft grassy feel and moderate flavours of gooseberries and lemongrass. Beautiful length full of freshness and fruit ending extra dry with a light chalk. The nose has lost a tad with a shift to mineral and lime. A full flavoured sipper - better with seafood from mussels to fried tentacle’d critters to seared scallops/tiger shrimp. Cellar a shorter time than suggested earlier - two years. Overall down a point to 89.
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CAVE SPRING ‘DOLOMITE’ RIESLING 2007 VQA Niagara Escarpment, Jordan, Ontario, 11.0% D, #Winery $17.15 (Retasted October 31, 2011)

My notes: We enjoyed this with bbq'd chicken last evening. Having finished the Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc the Riesling was an abrupt flavour change but very refreshing. Tasted in July this year everything was more intense: 'the luscious lime and melon edged with a chalky mineral' and 'honey lime scent'. A beautifully enticing riesling well balanced, full of terroir and varietal. Went well with Snapper with Angel's Hair and Citrus Cream Sauce . 92

Local TASTES BETTER (to be cont'd)

2011-09-24T22:46:00.216-04:00

This title would lead one, with a narrow interpretation of the phrase, to expect ‘terroir’ or ‘somewhereness’ in the Ontario wines featured in this LCBO glossy. However, after reviewing the selection of wines I'm led to a more generic interpretation. When compared with fruits and vegetables imported to Ontario wines don’t have to be refrigerated nor do they need prepicking or treated to delay ripening during travel. They can be shipped from New Zealand, South Africa, California and Chile with a modicum of environment control. Encased in their not quite hermetically sealed cylinders the flavours of their home location are retained. ‘Local Tastes Better’ likely means ‘Buy Ontario‘.

With admittedly a narrow interpretation my question is ‘Of the nineteen Ontario wines which ones would I expect to have the taste of terroir and of the grape?’. My focus is where the wine originates, the sub-appellation, and what grape varieties are used. The remaining component of whatever's in the bottle is the winemaker's contribution including his/her care of the soils and vines.

Of the nineteen wines in this issue there are two sub-appellations that should have a specific terroir, one from Twenty Mile Bench (Flat Rock Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir #001545). Flat Rock produces three Pinot Noirs the one being offered is their entry level, a blend of three traditional clones: 667, 777, and 115 from estate vineyards. The second sub-appellation is Lincoln Lakeshore and Legends Estate winery (Diva* Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc #179143) offers a

Page 17 - Do as I say, not as I do!

traditional (if I said Bordeaux I'd have to black it out ) blend. Three wines are from a zone, Niagara-on-the-Lake, consisting of several sub-appellations (Château des Charmes Riesling #061499, Stone Church Sauvignon Blanc #101865, Southbrook Connect Red ‘Organic‘ #249565). The grapes in these three are likely from estate

vineyards with the potential to express a specific 'somewhereness'. The remaining fourteen wines are blends of juices from across Niagara Peninsula and the broader region of Ontario.

For the consumer on a budget this glossy offers a number of beverage options but to experience the taste of Ontario one really needs to be more selective and visit specific wineries.

Cheers, Ww

Separate note: Does anyone proofread the recipes? eg. Roasted Red Peppers: ignoring the 11 cups of liquids there are 12kg (26lbs) of sweet red peppers. I better start now if I want it for Monday's supper ... or... maybe I'll drop into Longo's for a jar.